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1924 


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iiUPFORD  GRAY  COt-L^'-^f^a^ 


3)0.4- 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


In  order  to  render  the  following  Narrative  more  use- 
ful to  mariners,  as  well  as  interesting  to  the  general 
reader,  I  have  occasionally  availed  myself  of  informa- 
tion derived  from  other  sources  than  my  own  personal 
observation.  In  the  course  of  my  four  voyages,  1 
touched  at  many  places  at  which  I  could  not  remain 
long  enough  to  enable  me  to  make  surveys,  determine 
soundings,  or  collect  materials  for  accurate  descrip- 
tion ;  yet  without  these  and  general  sailing  directions, 
the  work,  as  a  whole,  would  have  been  imperfect.  1 
have  therefore  to  acknowledge  my  obligations  to 
several  voyagers  for  some  valuable  information;  for 
the  introduction  of  which,  I  am  confident,  none  of  my 
readers  will  require  an  apology. 

It  will  be  observed  that  all  the  courses  and  bearings 
in  the  work  have  been  made  by  compass^  and  that  the 
dates  are  according  to  nautical  time. 

The  Author. 
Netc-  York,  December ^  1832. 


» 


CONTENTS. 


iNTBcrrcTioN    ...'•.-.........*..    Page  9 


FIRST    YOYAGE. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Thoughts  on  a  Polar  Expedition — Objects  of  the  present  Voyage — Departure  from 
New-York — Fourth  of  July — Crossing  the  Equator — Visit  from  Father  Nep- 
tune— Arrival  at  St.  Ann's  Islands — Village  of  St.  Joao  de  Macae — Cape 
Frio — Arrival  at  Rio  Janeiro — Directions  for  Entering  the  Harbour — De- 
scription  of  St.  Sebastian's — Its  Trade  and  Commerce — Beauty  of  the  sur- 
rounding Country — Natural  Productions — Character  of  the  Inhabitants  .    .  29 

CHAPTER  II. 

Departure  from  Rio  Janeiro  to  survey  the  Coast  of  Patagonia — Cape  Corrientes 
— White  Bay — Rio  Colorado — Rio  Negro  :  Character  and  Manners  of  the  In- 
habitants, with  Directions  for  entering  the  Harbour — Patagonia — Marvellous 
Stories — St.  Matias's  Bay — New  Bay — Shooting  Bullocks  and  other  Game — 
St.  George's  Bay — Apology  to  the  Reader — Cape  Blanco — Port  Desire,  with 

.  Sailing  Directions— Port  St.  Julian  and  Santa  Cruz,  with  Instructions  for  ap- 
proaching and  entering — A  Sabbath-day's  Adventure — Description  of  the  Na- 
tives, their  Size,  Dress,  Mode  of  Living,  Origin,  &c. — Survey  suspended — 
Arrival  at  the  Falkland  Islands — News  of  the  Henry 37 

CHAPTER  III.  _ 

The  Falkland  Islands — History,  Description,  and  Natural  Productions — Pen- 
guin, Albatross,  &c. — Description  of  a  South  Sea  Rookery — Arrival  at  Port 
Louis — Shooting  Bullocks  and  Geese — Departure  from  Port  Louis — A  Search 
for  the  Aurora  Islands — Perilous  Situation  among  Icebergs — Kergulen's  Land 
— Christmas  Harbour — The  Sea-elephant — Antarctic  Seas,  open  and  tem- 
perate in  lat.  64°  50' 49 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Desolation  Island,  or  Kergulen's  Land — Christmas  Harbour — Natural  Produc- 
tions— Oceanic  Animals — Departure  from  the  Island,  towards  the  South  Pole — 
Cross  the  Antarctic  Circle — Procure  fresh  Water  from  the  Ice — Steer  for  Sand- 
wich-land— Candlemas  Isles — Southern  Thul6 — Burning  Volcanoes — Return  to 
the  Antarctic  Seas — Mild  Temparature  of  the  Air  and  Water — No  Field-ice  in 
Lat.  70°  14' — Ice-islands  and  Icebergs  ;  their  Formation — Practicability  of 
reachinff  the  South  Pole — New  South  Greenland — Staten  Land   ....  62 


•e 


CHAPTER  V. 

Erroneous  Ideas  corrected — Staten  Land — Strait  of  Le  Maire — Natural  History 
of  the  Fur-seal  and  Sea-elephant — Exaggerated  Accounts  of  Cape  Horn  Dan- 
gers accounted  for,  and  refuted — Doubling  the  Cape— Prevailing  Winds  and 

A 


ii  CONTENTS. 

Weather  in  that  Region — Diego  Ramirez  Islands — Ildefonso's  Island — Christ- 
mas Sound — Western  Entrance  to  the  Strait  of  Magellan — The  Wasp  sails 
from  Staten  Land,  and  arrives  at  the  Eastern  Entrance,  from  the  Atlantic — 
Enters  the  Strait,  and  anchors  in  the  Harbour  of  Cape  Negro 71 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Strait  of  Magellan — Face  of  the  Country — Hailed  by  a  Troop  of  Patagonians — 
Arrival  at  Port  Famine — History  of  the  Place — Ledger  River — Natural  Produc- 
tions— An  Excursion  into  the  Interior — Ruins  of  Philipville — Cape  Froward 
— Indians  of  the  Highlands  described — A  Visit  to  their  Village — The  Visit  recip- 
rocated— Excursion  up  the  River  Capac,  accompanied  by  two  Chiefs — Adven- 
tures in  returning — Filial  Affection  of  a  Cliief's  Son — Character,  Manners, 
Habits,  Customs,  Employments,  and  Dress  of  the  Natives — Their  Canoes, 
Arms,&c. — Their  Want  of  Cleanliness,  moral  Condition,  and  probable  Origin — 
Enter  the  Pacific  Ocean 82 

CHAPTER  VIL 

Commence  surveying  the  Western  Coast  of  South  America — Capes  St.  Isabel  and 
♦St.  Lucia — Strait  of  Conception — Cape  St.  Jago — St.  Martin's  Island — Byers's 
Strait — Island  of  Madre  de  Dios — Capes  Three  Pomts  and  Corso — Campana 
Channel  and  Island — Port  St.  Barbara — Cape  Nixon — Guayaneco  Islands — 
Inter%iew  with  a  tribe  of  Indians  called  the  Caucaes — A  brief  Description  of 
these  Natives — The  Fourth  of  July — The  Wasp  in  a  perilous  Situation  on  a 
Rock — Damages  repaired — Anchors  converted  into  Rudder  Irons — Set  Sail  for 
Mocha  Island — Obtain  fresh  Provisions — Island  of  Santa  Maria   ....  98 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Bay  of  Conception  and  Port  of  Talcaguano — City  of  Mocha,  or  New  Conception 
— The  River  Biobio — Soil,  Climate,  and  Natural  Productions — Valparaiso  Bay 
and  City — Kindness  of  the  American  Consul,  Mr.  Hogan — Santiago,  or  St. 
Jago — Directions  for  entering  the  Harbour  of  Valparaiso — Climate,  Winds,  <&c. 

— Valparaiso  destroyed  by  an  Earthquake — Amiable  Character  of  Mr.  Hogan — 
Arrive  at  Port  Coquinibo — Captain  Hutchins,  of  Baltimore — Heave  down  the 
Wasp  to  repair  Damages — Directions  for  entering  the  Port  of  Coquimbo — De- 
scription of  the  Town — Caution  to  Shipmasters — Villanous  Attempt  at  Imposition 

— Sail  from  Coquimbo — Pursued  by  an  armed  Force,  which  soon  retreats — Islands 
of  St.  Ambrose  and  St.  Felix — An  Adventure  promised  in  the  next  Chapter  107 

CHAPTER  IX. 

A  Discovery — Inexcusable  Barbarity — Hopeless  Sufferings  and  joyful  Preserva- 
tion— Lobos  Afuero— Lobos  de  Terra — Indian  Catamarans,  and  Balzas — River 
and  Town  of  Tumbes — Pizarro  in  Peru — Port  and  Town  of  Tacames — Nat- 
ural Productions— Volcanic  Mountains— Height  of  Chimborazo — Cities  of  Quito 
and  Cuzco— Monuments  of  ancient  Splendour — Walls  of  the  Temple  of  the 
Sun  still  standing — Ruins  of  the  Incas'  Palace— Gallapagos  Islands — Elephant 
Tortoises— Island  of  Juan  Fernandez — Natural  Productions — Escape  of  the 
Convicts — Alexander  Selkirk,  or  Robinson  Crusoe 118 

CHAPTER  X. 

Island  of  Masafuero — The  River  Maule— Captain  and  Crew  arrested— A  Prison 
Scene — Symptoms  of  a  bloody  Crisis — Amicable  Compromise — St.  Valentine's 
Day — Guests  of  Distinction— A  nautical  Breakfast  strangely  interrupted— False 
Colours— Retaliation,  or  the  Yankee  Trick— Arrive  at  Valparaiso — The  Wasp 
changes  Masters— Embark  for  the  United  States— Pilot  a  Ship  through  Magel- 
lan's Strait — Touch  at  Pemambuco — Arrive  at  Salera—Gloomy  Forebodings, 
terminating  in  a  fatal  ReaUty— Visit  to  Stonington— Affecting  Meeting— A 
Father's  Advice 130 


CONTENTS.'  iii 


SECOND    VOYAGE. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Preparations  for  the  Second  Voyage — The  Schooner  Tartar  selected  and  pur- 
chased for  the  Purpose — A  Matrimonial  Contract — The  Voyage  commenced — 
Island  of  Fernando  Noronha,  and  the  Roccas — Bahia,  or  the  Bay  of  All  Saints 
— City  of  St.  Salvador — Directions  for  entering  the  Harbour — Sail  from  Bahia — 
Island  of  St.  Catharme's — Island  of  Lobos — Rio  de  la  Plata — Monte  Video  and 
Buenos  Ayres — The  Falkland  Islands — Strait  of  Magellan — Peninsula  of  the 
Three  Mountains — Social  Affections  of  Seals — Moral  Reflections   .     .     .  143 

CHAPTER  II. 

Peninsula  de  Tres  Montes,  and  the  adjacent  Islands — Natives'of  the  Coast — Bene- 
ficial Effects  of  foreign  Missionaries,  promoting  the  Interests  of  Commerce— A 
new  Field  for  ?vIissionary  Labours — Archipelago  of  Chonos — Island  of  Chiloe — 
Natural  Productions — Town  of  St.  Carlos — Religion,  Character,  and  Manners 
of  the  Inhabitants — Dress  of  the  Females — Employments,  Accomplishments, 
and  Amusements — Equestrian  Exercises — Mode  of  Mounting  their  Horses — 
Ponchos  and  Hammocks — The  adjacent  Countrv — Directions  for  Entering  the 
Port 157 

CHAPTER  III. 

Bay  and  City  of  Valdivia — The  Araucanians — Town  of  Pelchue — Retrospective 
Observations — Towns  of  Colema  and  Chilian — Province  of  Chilian — Arrive  at 
Valparaiso — Continue  the  Survey  of  the  Coast — Province  and  City  of  Copiago 
— Bay  and  Town  of  Pisco — Sailing  Directions,  &c. — The  Bay  or  Roads  of  Cal- 
lao — The  Blockade  and  Siege  of  Callao — General  Rodil  refuses  to  Surrender — 
The  Tartar  enters  without  Ceremony 163 

CHAPTER  IV. 

The  Port  of  Callao — Destniction  of  the  Town  in  1746 — Condition  of  the  Place  ia 
1824— Closely  invested  by  Land  and  Sea— Did  not  "  catch  a  Tartar" — The  City 
of  Lima — Sail  from  Callao — Arrive  at  Quilca — Visit  the  City^of  Arequipa — Sail 
from  Quilca — Arrive  at  Port  Santa — Cruise  along  the  Coast — Port  of  Guant 
chaco — City  of  Truxillo — Bay  of  Caraccas,  and  the  surrounding  Country — View 
of  Chimborazo — A  Nation  in  the  Clouds — Volcano  of  Pinchinca — Eruption  of 
Cotopaxi — Sail  from  Caraccas  Bay — Arrive  at  Cocos  Island 173 

CHAPTER  V. 

Cocos  Island — Gallapagos  Islands — Eruption  of  a  Volcano  on  Narborough  Island 
—  Critical  Situation  of  the  Tartar — A  fruitless  Search  for  Gallego  and  other  ima- 
ginary Islands — Arrive  on  the  Coast  of  California — Island  of  Guadaloupe— 
Cerros  Island — Bay  of  St.  Francis — Near  to  our  native  Land,  and  yet  far  from 
it — The  Gulf  of  California  and  River  Colorado — Anew  Route  from  the  United 
States  to  the  Pacific  Ocean — Old  California — Cenezos  Island — Port  San  Diego 
iu  New  California — Character  of  the  Inhabitants,  &c 191 

CHAPTER  VI. 

A  hunting  Excursion — The  Party  attacked  by  a  hostile  Tribe  of  Indians — A  des- 
perate Battle — Victory  doubtful — The  Savages  defeated — A  safe  Return  to  St. 
Diego — Sail  to  the  North — Arrive  at  Monterey — Mission  of  San  Carlos  and 
San  Antonio — Mutiny  on  board  the  Asia  sixty-four — Farallone  Islands — Port  St. 
Francisco — Description  of  the  Country  and  Inhabitants — Mission  of  St.  Clara 
— Cape  Blanco  in  the  Oregon  Territory — Change  our  Course  to  the  South- 
Island  of  Socorro — Steer  for  the  West — Sandwich  Islands    •    k    •    *       802 


iv  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  YII. 

Sail  from  the  Sandwich  Islands — Northern  Polynesia — Bird's  Island — Man-ol- 
war  Rock — Lisiansky  Island — Caution  to  Navigators — Pearl  and  Hermes 
Isljind — Byers's  Island — An  unknown  Island — Steer  towards  the  Continent — 
Clipperton's  Rock — A  Wild-goose  Chase  for  St.  Vincent  Island — Arrive  at  the 
Gallapagos  Islands — Return  to  the  Coast  of  Peru — Bay  and  Town  of  8echur;i 
— City  of  Piura — Directions  for  entering  the  Port  of  Sechura — Bay  and  'J'own 
of  Payta — Port  of  tSt.  Pedro — Bay  and  Town  of  Ferrol — Natural  Productions — 
^  Cinchona,  or  Peruvian  Bark — Animals,  &c. — Arrive  at  the  Port  of  Chorillos  215 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Isthmus  of  Darien — Letter  from  a  Traveller — Town  of  Porto  Bello — How  to  pre- 
/  vent  a  wet  Jacket — An  excellent  Dinner,  and  Wine  with  an  Excellency — Canoe 
Navigation — Gloomy  Prospects — Town  and  River  Chagres — Ascending  the 
River — Crossing  the  Isthmus — Town  of  Cruces — The  Pizarro  Road — Coming 
to  an  Anchor — Emotions  excited  by  a  first  View  of  the  Pacific — City  of  Panama 
•—Importance  of  a  Passport — Projected  Canal  across  the  Isthmus — Ruins  of  old 
Panama — An  Earthquake — The  Gulf  of  Panama 231 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Surrender  of  the  Castles  of  Callao,  by  General  Rodil,  to  the  Patriots — Dreadful 
Effects  of  the  Siege — General  Quintanilla  surrenders  the  Island  of  Chiloe — Visit 
the  Ruins  of  Pachamcamac,  a  magnificent  Temple  of  the  Sun — Homeward- 
bound — Strait  of  Magellan — Two  Excursions  into  the  Interior — Entertained 
by  a  Tribe  of  Patagonians — Their  Stature  and  Hospitality — Human  Skeletons 
of  a  gigantic  Size — Touch  at  the  Falkland  Islands — A  fruitless  Search  for  Island 
Grande — Arrive  at  New-York 243 


THIRD    VOYAGE. 

CHAPTER  I. 

The  Schooner  Antarctic,  built  expressly  for  this  Voyage — Sails  from  New- York 
— Reflections  on  leaving  Land — A  vertical  Sun — ^Arrive  at  the  Cape  Verd 
Islands — General  Description  of  the  Group — Island  of  St.  Antonio,  with  its 
natural  Productions — St.  Lucia — St.  Vincent — St.  Nicholas — Natural  Produc- 
tions— Indolence  and  Slavery — A  Peep  at  the  Interior — Condition  of  the  vSlaves 
— The  Influence  of  Music — Abundance  of  Fish — Island  of  Sal — Dreaiy  Aspect 
of  the  Country — Arrive  at  the  Island  of  Bonavista     .     .  ....        253 

CHAPTER  IL 

Island  of  Bonavista — Town  and  Harbour — Interview  with  the  Governor — The 
Art  of  Begging  illustrated — View  of  the  Island — Natural  Productions — Sail- 
ing Directions — The  Leton  Rocks — Island  of  Mayo — St.  Jago,  or  Santiago — 
Port  Praya — Breakfast  with  the  Captain-general — A  walk  with  the  Ladies — A 
Peep  at  the  Country — View  the  Fortifications — Military  Establishment — A 
Dinner-party — Bay  and  Anchorage — Volcano  of  Fogo,  or  Fuego — Island  of 
Brava — Imaginary  Dangers 264 

CHAPTER  III. 

The  Cape  of  Good  Hope — A  Brief  History  and  Description  of  the  Colony — Sal- 
danha  Bay — St.  Helen's  Bay — Berg  or  Mountain  River — The  Vale  of  Draken- 
stein — Oliphant  or  Elephant  River — Koussie  River — Cape  Voltas — Volcanic 
Productions — Projected  Speculation — The  Gariep  or  Orange  River — Angras 
Juntas  Bay — Whale  Bay — Possession  Island — Elizabeth  Bay — A  Peep  at  the 


CONTENTS.  V 

I 
Interior — Angra  Pequena,  or  Santa  Cruz — Ichaboe  Island — Mercury  Island — In- 
tercourse "wath  the  Natives — Bird  Island — Sandwich  Harbour — WalwichBay  378 

CHAPTER  IV.  , 

Excursion  into  the  Interior — Description  of  the  Natives — Face  of  the  Country—  ' 
Natural  Productions — Sudden  and  transitory  Vegetation — Droves  of  Elephants 
— Return  to  the  Vessel — Sail  from  Walwich  Bay — Arrive  at  Mercury  Island — 
A  most  afflicting  Disaster,  in  the  Loss  of  Ogden — Tribute  to  his  Memory — Ar- 
rive at  Point  St.  Helen — Wreck  of  the  English  Brig  Columbine — An  Offer  to 
save  her  Cargo  rejected — Arrive  at  Table  Bay — Description  df  the  Place — Sail- 
ing Directions — Phenomenon  of  the  Tablecloth — Sail  from  Table  Bay,  and 
again  steer  to  the  North 300 

CHAPTER  V. 

Robben  or  Penguin  Island — Dassen  or  Coney  Island — Arrive  at  Angra  Pequena 
— Sand-v^rinds,  and  a  moving  Column  of  Sand — Intercourse  with  the  Natives— 
The  Guinea-worm — A  Horde  of  Macasses,  or  Makosses — Ogden's  Harbour- 
Cape  Frio,  or  Cold  Cape — Great  Fish  Bay — A  Tribe  of  the  Cimbebas  -Ex- 
cursion into  the  Interior — Port  Alexander — St.  Philip  Benguela — St.  Philip's 
Bonnet — Province,  Bay,  and  Town  of  Benguela — Anchorage,  Landing,  Soil, 
Climate,  Productions,  Water,  &c. — Animals,  Vegetables,  and  Minerals — De- 
scription of  the  Coast — Sailing  Directions 311 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Visit  to  a  Slave  Brig — Cruelty  and  Suffering — Slaves  flogged  to  Death — Strength 
of  conjugal  Affection  in  an  African — An  affecting  Scene — Beard  the  Tigers  in 
their  Den — Cowardice  of  Guilt — How  to  abolish  the  ^lave-trade — English 
Colony  of  Sierra  Leone — United  States'  Colony  of  Liberia — Sail  from  Benguela — 
Homeward-bound — Island  of  Ascension — The  Fourth  of  July,  and  a  vertical  Sun 
— Arrive  at  New- York — Kind  Reception  by  the  Owners,  and  a  still  kinder  one 
by  somebody  else 334 

CHAPTER  VII. 

A  Sister's  Inquiry  for  her  Brother — An  Evasive  Answer — The  Fatal  Truth  dis- 
closed— A  Mourning  Family — Pious  Resignation — A  Funeral  Sermon— Dis- 
charge the  Cargo — Visit  Stonington — Preparations  for  another  Voyage  in  the 
Antarctic — Domestic  Affairs — A  Wife  resolved  to  accompany  her  Husband — 
Vain  Expostulations — Arguments  pro  and  con — The  Embarkation — The  Pilot 
dismissed 334 


FOURTH    VOYAGE. 

CHAPTER  L 

Departure  of  the  Antarctic — Good  Qualities  of  the  Schooner — The  Captain's 
Wife  on  board — Beauties  of  a  dying  Dolphin — Sudden  Death  of  Francis  Pat- 
terson— Arrive  at  Bonavista — Arrive  at  Porto  Praya — Steer  for  the  South — The 
Crew  assailed  by  Fever — The  Lady  suffering  under  the  same  Disease — Dis- 
tressing Situation  of  the  Antarctic — Death  of  Mr.  Geery — Death  of  Mr.  Spin- 
ney— The  Prospect  darkens — A  Wife's  dying  Request  to  her  Husband — A  Dawn 
of  Hope — The  Sick  begin  to  recover — Arrive  at  Tristan  d'Acunha,  and  procure 
Refreshments 241 

CHAPTER  IL 

Island  ofTrist.in  d'Acunha — King  Lambert — Governor  Glass — Gongh's  Island— 
Kerguelen's    Land — Cape  Desolation — Lord  Auckland's    Group — New-year's 


-vi  CONTENTS. 

a. 

Festivities — Learning    to  walk — Natural    Productions    of   the    Island — The 
Schooner  Henry,  Captain  Johnson,  their  probable  Fate — The    Snares — Stew- 
art's Isle,  or  South  Cape  of  New-Zealand — Molyneux's  Harbour — Intercourse 
with  the  Natives  of  New-Zealand ...  853 

CHAPTER  III. 

!New-Zealand — Intercourse  with  the  Natives — Their  Habitations,  Apparel,  Work- 
ing tools,  and  Weapons — Eating  Human  Flesh — Face  of  the  Country — I3anks's 
Peninsula — Cook'sCape,  Harbour,  and  Strait — Visit  from  the  Natives — Women 
an  Article  of  Traffic — East  Cape — Mercury  Bay — Great  Utility  of  Missionaries — 
Bay  of  Islands — Royal  Visiters — Visit  to  the  Mission — Orderly  Arrangement — 
Sail  to  the  North — The  New-Hebrides — Hope  Island — Steer  to  the  West — 
New  Discoveries  anticipated 365 

CHAPTER  IV. 

New  Discoveries — Westervelt's  Group — An  ominous  Dream — A  perilous  Situa- 
tion— Extricated  by  a  dexterous  nautical  Manoeuvre — Bergh's  Group  discovered 
— Livingston's  Island — Arrive  at  Manilla — Philippine  Islands — Luconia — 
City  and  Bay  of  Manilla— A  Hint  to  the  Ladies 376 

CHAPTER  V. 

Sail  from  Manilla  for  the  Feejee  Islands — Discover  Skiddy's  Shoal — Islands  'of 
Los  Matires — Visit  Bergh's  Group — Discover  Skiddy's  Group — Visit  Young 
William's  Group — Interview  with  the  Natives — Intended  Treachery  defeated — 
Visit  Monteverdeson's  Islands — Description  of  the  Natives — Indications  of 
Hostilities — An  Attempt  to  board  the  Antarctic — Continuation  of  the  Voyage 
— Discovery  of  the  Massacre  Islands — Friendly  Disposition  of  the  Natives  387 

CHAPTER  VL 

Massacre  Islands — Commence  building  a  House — A  Garden  planted — Friendship 
of  Henneen,  the  Island  Chief — Friendly  Disposition  of  the  Natives — Precau- 
tions against  Surprise — Symptoms  of  Perfidy,  Duplicity,  and  Dissimulation — 
Drawn  into  an  Ambuscade — Disarm  a  Host — Amity  and  Confidence  restored — 
Specious  but  hollow  Professions  of  Good-will — The  Alarm — The  Massacre — 
The  Battle — The  Rescue — Cannibalism — Deplorable  Situation  of  the  Survivors 
— Sail  from  the  Islands — Arrive  at  Manilla 403 

CHAPTER  VIL 

Sail  from  Manilla  for  the  Massacre  Islands — The  Bay  and  Town  of  Taal — Port 
and  Town  of  St.  Joseph's — Ladrone  Islands — Arrive  at  Bergh's  Group — 
Friendship  of  the  Natives — Their  Canoes,  Fishing  Implements,  &c. — Beauty 
of  the  Women — Strength  and  Agility  of  the  Men — Theological  Notions-— 
Marriages,  Deaths,  Wars,  &c. — Description  of  their  Weapons,  Houses,  and  Vil- 
lages— Domestic  Arrangements — Fertility  and  Capabilities  of  the  Soil — Im- 
portance of  this  Discovery — Equipments  necessary  for  a  Voyage  to  these 
Islands — Depart  for  the  Massacre  Islands 416 

CHAPTER  VIIL 

Monteverdeson's  Group — Treachery  of  the  Natives — Attack  on  the  Antarctic  re- 
pulsed— Wholesome  Chastisement — Arrive  at  the  Massacre  Islands — Assailed 
by  the  Cannibals,  who  are  repulsed  with  Loss — Fire  upon  the  Town — Beneficial 
Result — Leonard  Shaw,  supposed  to  have  fallen  in  the  general  Massacre, 
alive,  and  liberated  from  a  horrid  Slavery — Excitement  of  the  Crew — Purchase 
of  an  Island — A  Castle  in  the  Air — Suspicious  Movements — A  brief  Sketch  of 
the  Sufferings  of  Leonard  Shaw,  during  a  Captivity  of  more  than  Fifteen  Weeks 
among  th«  Cannibals 435 


CONTENTS.  vii 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Massacre  Islands — More  Treachery — Wallace's  Island  invaded — Tha  Castle  at- 
tacked— The  Assailants  defeated — Henneen  slain — Massacre  Island  evacuated 
by  the  Natives — The  Antarctic's  Crew  land — Interment  of  the  Martyrs'  Sculls — 
Holmes's  narrow  Escape — The  Enterprise  abandoned — Sail  for  Bouka  Island — 
St.  George's  Channel — New-Ireland — The  Natives — Fertility  and  natural 
Riches  of  the  Country — New-Britain — Dampicr's  Island 448 

CHAPTER  X. 

New-Britain — New-Guinea — Dekay's  Bay — Description  of  the  Natives — Natural 
Productions — Birds  of  Paradise — Requisites  for  a  Voyage  thither — Livingston's. 
Cape — Burning  Mountains,  with  Volcanic  Eruptions — Cape  Woodbury,  and 
Woodbury  Harbour — Another  new  Discovery — The  Antarctic  attacked — The 
Natives  astonished — Sunday  and  Monday  taken — Return  to  Manilla — Health 
and  Fidelity  of  the  Crew — Directions  to  Ship-masters — Importance  of  Cleanli- 
ness and  wholesome  Food — Vegetable  Acids,  &c 468 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Disappointed  Hopes — Take  Freight  for  Cadiz — Touch  at  Singapore  to  lighten 
the  Vessel — Description  of  the  Place — Climate,  Soil,  Health,  and  Beauty  of  the 
Country — An  Aerial  Excursion — Delightful  Prospects — Sail  from  Singapore — 
The  treacherous  Malays — Precautious  necessary  to  be  observed — Double  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope — Saldanha  Bay — Necessary  Repairs — Island  of  St.  Helena 
— Tomb  of  Bonaparte — History  and  Description  of  the  Island — The  Azores 
— Cadiz — Bordeaux — Homeward  Bound — Safe  Arrival — Melancholy  News — 
The  Conclusion 469 


.  % 


INTRODUCTION. 

COMPRISING 

A  BRIEF  SKETCH  OF 
THE  AUTHOR'S    EARLY  LIFE. 


In  appearing  thus  before  the  public,  and  for  the  first  time — not  only 
as  an  author^  but  as  the  discoverer  of  countries  the  very  existence  of 
which  was  before  unknown  to  the  civilized  world, — the  writer  of  the 
subsequent  pages  is  aware  that  he  is  advancing  claims  of  no  ordinary 
character.  With  what  degree  of  abihty  they  are  about  to  be  sustained 
remains  yet  to  be  seen. 

The  author  makes  no  pretensions  to  literary  attainments,  or  to  the 
art  of  fine  writing ;  but  he  has  the  vanity  to  say,  that,  in  his  natural 
sphere,  on  the  deck  of  a  ship,  he  will  yield  to  none  in  his  knowledge 
and  discharge  of  nautical  duties.  If  this  (perhaps  gratuitous)  boast 
require  justification,  he  trusts  that  it  may  be  found  in  the  following 
brief  sketch  of  some  prominent  incidents  of  his  thus  far  checkered 
life  and  maritime  career,  previous  to  the  voyages  which  furnished  the 
subject-matter  of  the  present  work.  This  he  gives  the  more  readily, 
as  the  public  have  an  undoubted  right  to  know  something  of  a  man 
who  comes  before  them  with  the  high-sounding  promise  of  increasing 
their  stock  of  geographical  knowledge,  and  adding  much  to  the  accu- 
mulated treasures  of  cosmographical  science. 

Ever  anxious  to  avoid  even  the  appearance  of  egotism,  he  has 
thus  introduced  himself  to  the  reader  in  the  third  person ;  but  in 
telling  his  own  story,  he  finds  it  more  convenient  to  adopt  the  first. 

My  father,  Benjamin  Morrell,  of  Stonington,  Connecticut,  is  well 
known  to  the  commercial  community  in  New-England  and  New- York, 
as  a  ship-builder  of  some  professional  eminence.  His  name,  also, 
will  be  remembered,  as  connected  with  a  domestic  calamity  of  the 
most  distressing  and  heart-rending  character,  which  .occurred  in  the 
great  gale  of  September  23d,  1815,  which  will  be  noticed  in  its  proper 
place.  His  family  once  comprised  a  beloved  wife  and  seven  children — 
four  sons  and  three  daughters,  of  whom  I  was  the  eldest. 

I  was  bom  on  the  5th  day  of  July,  1795.  My  parents  at  that 
time  resided  in  a  small  town  of  Westchester  county,  in  the  state  of 
New- York,  called  Rye,  on  Long  Island  Sound,  about  eighteen  miles 
N.E.  of  the  great  commercial  emporium  of  the  United  States.  Thus, 
I  may  say  the  salt  water  was  almost  the  first  scene  presented  to  my 
infant  view ;  and  I  have  lived  close  by  it,  or  on  it,  ever  since. 


X  INTRODUCTORY  SKETCH  OF  [1812. 

In  less  than  a  year  after  my  birth,  my  father  removed  his  family  to 
Stonington,  a  borough  in  the  county  of  New-London,  Connecticut, 
also  lying  on  the  margin  of  Long  Island  Sound,  fifteen  miles  east  of 
New-London,  and  near  the  western  line  of  Rhode  Island.  This  place 
is  celebrated  for  having  successfully  resisted  two  furious  bombard- 
ments by  the  English ;  one  during  the  war  of  the  revolution,  and 
another,  of  two  days'  duration,  in  the  last  war.  It  can  also  boast  of 
having  produced  a  greater  number  of  excellent  seamen,  eminent  ship- 
masters, and  enterprising  merchants  than  any  other  town  of  equal 
population  in  the  United  States.  The  number  of  inhabitants  according 
to  the  census  of  1830  did  not  exceed  800  souls. 

It  w^as  here  that  my  father  commenced  his  business  of  ship-building ; 
which  he  pursued,  with  unremitting  assiduity,  until  the  year  1800, 
when  he  made  a  voyage  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  as  third  officer  and 
carpenter  of  the  schooner  Oneco,  of  New-London,  commanded  by 
Captain  George  Howe.  He  was  absent  nearly  three  years,  suffering 
many  hardships  and  privations,  the  voyage  proving  unusually  hazard- 
ous and  disagreeable.  On  his  return  to  Stonington,  he  resumed  his 
business  of  ship-building ;  in  which  he  lost  a  considerable  sum  of 
money,  through  the  misfortunes  of  his  employer,  Captain  Nathaniel 
Smith.  Although  this  loss  was  severely  felt  by  my  father,  he  never 
attributed  any  blame  to  Captain  Smith  ;  knowing  him  to  be  of  a  nature 
too  noble  and  humane  to  enjoy  a  lengthened  period  of  worldly  pros- 
perity. The  miser  and  the  knave  appear  to  be  the  most  popular  and 
successful  in  this  life,  while  the  generous  and  the  just  too  often  become 
the  victims  of  treachery,  and  the  prey  of  misfortune. 

My  infancy  and  early  childhood  were  periods  of  sickness  and  pain. 
That  laughing  vivacity,  bounding  hilarity,  and  buoyancy  of  spirit  which 
every  healthy  child  experiences — 

"  That  lightly  draws  its  breath, 
And  feels  its  life  in  every  limb," 

were  to  me  "  like  angels'  visits ;"  for  until  I  was  ten  years  old  L  had 
seldom,  if  ever,  enjoyed  health  or  ease  for  the  short  space  of  a  single 
week.  At  the  age  of  ten,  my  health  rapidly  improved ;  and  it  Avas 
about  this  period  that  I  first  felt  a  strong  propensity  to  become  a  sailor, 
and  visit  distant  parts  of  the  world.  This  desire,  by  whatever  cause 
excited,  was  keenly  whetted  by  the  many  marvellous  stories  I  daily 
heard,  from  those  who  followed  the  seas,  concerning  the  "  wonders  of 
the  mighty  deep,"  and  the  curiosities  of  foreign  climes.  It  literally 
"  grew  with  my 'growth,  and  strengthened  with  my  strength."  Books, 
also,  were  not  wanting  to  fan  the  flame,  which  at  length  became  inex- 
tinguishable ;  and  after  vainly  soliciting  my  father's  consent,  I  deter- 
mined at  once  to  play  the  hero,  and  seize  the  first  opportunity  for 
running  away  ! 

Such  an  opportunity  at  length  occurred ;  but  not  until  I  had  entered 
my  seventeenth  year :  when,  without  taking  leave  of  any  member  of 
the  family,  or  intimating  my  purpose  to  a  single  soul,  I  left  my  paternal 
home,  one  pleasant  morning  in  March,  1812;  and  without  encounter- 
ing any  adventures  worth  relating,  soon  found  myself  in  the  great  city 


1812.]  THE  AUTHOR'S  EARLY  LIFE.  xi 

of  New- York.  Here  I  lost  no  time  in  looking  out  for  a  berth  on 
board  of  some  vessel  engaged  in  foreign  trade,  the  coasting  business 
being  a  sphere  far  too  limited  for  my  expansive  ambition.  I  finally- 
succeeded  in  shipping  myself  on  board  the  Enterprise,  a  ship  belonging 
to  Ralph  Buckley,  Esq.,  and  commanded  by  Captain  Alexander  Cart- 
wright  ;  as  fine  a  seaman,  and  as  honest  a  man,  as  ever  put  his  foot 
on  the  quarter-deck  of  a  ship. 

Our  destination  was  Lisbon,  with  a  cargo  of  flour,  for  which  a  great 
price  was  anticipated,  as  France  was  then  at  war  with  Spain  and  Por- 
tugal, and  a  further  supply  from  the  United  States  was  momentarily  ex- 
pected to  be  cut  oft';  as  an  embargo  law  for  ninety  days  had  just  passed 
both  houses  of  Congress,  and  was  hourly  expected  in  New-York. 
Like  several  others  in  the  same  predicament,  we  were  compelled  to 
take  in  our  cargo  with  the  greatest  expedition,  and  then  to  drop  below 
in  the  outer  harbour,  to  wait  for  our  clearance.  As  soon  as  this  was 
obtained,  we  all  weighed  anchor  and  put  to  sea.  The  word  was 
now,  "  Run  for  it !  and  Heaven  help  the  hindmost !"  for  the  collector's 
signature  was  scarcely  dry  upon  the  paper  before  he  received  orders 
from  Washington  by  express  to  stop  every  vessel  that  was  bound  to 
sea.  The  revenue-cutter  immediately  gave  chase  to  our  little  fleet 
of  flour-dealers,  and  succeeded  in  stopping  several  of  the  fugitives, 
who  were  compelled  to  return.  The  rest  of  us  had  too  much  the  start  of 
nim  ;  and  I  soon  found  myself  far  from  land,  on  the  element  which  I 
had  so  long  and  so  ardently  desired  to  traverse. 

I  cannot  describe  my  sensations  on  finding  myself  afloat  on  the 
mighty  ocean.  My  soul  seemed  to  have  escaped  from  a  prison  or  a 
cage — I  could  now  breathe  more  freely.  But  large  and  boundless  as 
the  world  of  waters  appeared,  I  was  afraid  that  it  was  not  large  enough 
for  my  wholesale  desires.  So  many  had  traversed  it  before  me  that  I 
felt  apprehensive  that  they  had  gleaned  the  vast  field  of  research,  and  left 
nothing  new  for  me  to  discover  and  describe.  But  doubtless  many 
other  lads  of  the  same  age,  and  under  similar  circumstances,  have 
experienced  the  same  kind  of  feelings.  The  enthusiastic  glow  which 
they  imparted  to  my  bosom,  however,  was  occasionally  chilled  by  an 
intruding  thought  of  home,  and  the  aflliction  of  my  parents  and  rela- 
tives, on  account  of  my  clandestine  and  mysterious  disappearance.  But 
the  novelty  of  my  situation  soon  enabled  me  to  give  such  thoughts  to 
the  winds. 

After  a  pleasant  passage,  we  touched  at  Lisbon,  but  finding  the 
price  of  flour  not  equal  to  our  expectations,  we  proceeded  to  Cadiz, 
which  was  then  exposed  to  a  severe  bombardment  from  the  French. 
This  was  of  course  a  wonderful  and  interesting  scene  to  me.  To 
see  the  bomb-shells  flying  over  our  ship,  and  falhng  into  the  market- 
place, which  I  had  occasion  to  visit  every  day  for  beef  and  vegetables, 
was  truly  grand  and  sublime.  It  was  in  some  measure  realizing 
what  I  had  so  often  heard  and  read  and  dreamed  of;  it  was  a  partial 
consummation  of  my  most  prominent  juvenile  desire.  I  soon  became 
familiar  with  danger,  and  actually  felt  the  most  gratified  when  the 
shells  fell  thickest  around  me ;  so  that  I  might  exhibit  my  contempt 
of  fear.     From  that  i)eriod,  I  became  romantically  fond  of  hazardous 


Kii  IXTRODUCTORY  SKETCH  OF  [1812. 

and  desperate  enterprises,  in  the  aeliievement  of  which  I  have  ever 
since  sought  occasion  to  place  myself  foremost.  Whether  this  pro- 
pensity be  physical  or  moral,  or  both  combined,  or  inconsiderate 
rashness,  I  leave  it  for  others  to  decide.  At  all  events,  it  appears  to 
be  inherent  in  my  nature,  and  the  most  pleasant  sensations  I  have  ever 
experienced  were  the  effects  of  its  gratification. 

AVe  made  a  long  stay  in  Cadiz,  waiting  to  make  an  advantageous 
sale  of  our  cargo,  which  we  finally  effected,  and  again  set  sail  on  our 
return  to  New- York,  ignorant  of  the  fact  that  since  our  departure  from 
the  United  States  war  had  been  declared  by  our  government  against 
Great  Britain  and  her  dependencies. 

We  continued  our  passage  with  variable  winds  and  occasional  foul 
weather,  until  we  arrived  on  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland  ;  where  we 
fell  in  with  the  British  sloop-of-war  Hazard,  the  commander  of  which 
politely  furnished  our  captain  with  the  news  of  the  war,  and  then  ex- 
tended his  courtesy  so  far  as  to  take  charge  of  our  ship,  and  give  the 
officers  and  crew  a  free  passage  to  St.  John's,  Newfoundland,  where  we 
Avere  all  confined  on  board  a  prison-ship  lying  at  the  head  of  the  harbour. 

On  board  of  this  hulk  we  were  detained  as  prisoners  of  war  for  about 
eight  months,  during  which  time  we  received  every  indulgence  and 
liberty  that  could  reasonably  be  expected  by  persons  in  our  situation. 
For  this  liberal  and  humane  treatment  we  were  indebted  to  the  kind- 
ness of  Sir  John  Thomas  Duckworth,  commander-in-chief  of  his 
Britannic  majesty's  forces  on  that  station.  He  even  permitted  twenty- 
five  of  the  American  prisoners  to  go  on  shore  ever}'^  day,  to  work  as 
riggers,  receiving  the  customary  wages  for  that  business.  He  also 
allowed  a  market  to  be  held  on  board  tlie  hulk,  to  which  the  country- 
men were  compelled  to  bring  the  best  of  every  thing,  at  the  same  prices 
as  were  paid  by  citizens.  Every  article  of  provisions  brought  to 
this  market  which  was  found  to  be  of  bad  quality  was  promptly 
thrown  overboard  by  one  of  Sir  John's  officers. 

But  notwithstanding  the  kind  treatment  we  received,  we  all  sighed 
for  liberty,  longing  to  get  home  that  we  might  embrace  our  friends, 
and  join  our  brave  countrymen  in  arms.  We  therefore  resolved  to 
petition  Sir  John,  at  his  next  humane  weekly  visit,  to  send  the  American 
prisoners  home  to  their  families  and  friends;  We  did  so,  and  the 
admiral  replied  in  substance  as  follows : 

"  My  brave  men  I  feel  for  you,  and  will  do  all  that  lies  in  my  power 
towards  gratifying  your  wishes,  in  the  course  of  this  winter.  It  is 
natural  that  you  should  desire  to  be  restored  to  your  friends,  families, 
and  country.     You  may  rely  upon  my  best  exertions  in  your  behalf." 

Reanimated  by  this  cordial  assurance,  we  now  felt  like  different 
beings,  confident  that  the  humane  veteran  spoke  in  the  sincerity  of  his 
heart,  and  a  few  days  furnished  testimony  that  our  confidence  had  not 
been  misplaced.  On  his  next  visit  he  gave  us  the  joyful  intelligence 
that  arrangements  had  been  made  for  our  return  to  the  States  in 
about  a  month. 

No  incident  occurred  to  damp  our  hopes.  At  the  time  appointed 
we  all  embarked  on  board  a  cartel,  and  on  the  following  day  took  our 
final  leave  of  Sir  John,  with  sentiments  of  affection  und  respect.     It 


1812]  THE  AUTHORS  EARLY  LIFE.  xiii 

is  no  small  gratification  to  my  feelings  at  the  present  moment,  that  I 
ajn  favoured  witli  an  opportunity  of  thus  bearing  public  testimony  to 
the  professional  merits  of  this  gentleman,  as  well  as  to  the  amiable 
qualities  of  his  heart.  He  dropped  a  manly  tear  at  our  parting,  and 
his  cordial  "  God  bless  you,  my  lads !"  was  sensibly  felt  by  every 
heart  anions  us.  After  interchanging  an  affectionate  farewell  with 
other  kind  friends  and  acqnaintances,  we  set  sail  for  our  native  land, 
and  in  a  few  days  arrived  in  safety  at  Boston. 

I  now  found  myself  restored  to  liberty  from  a  state  of  captivity ;  a 
freeman  in  my  native  country,  treading  the  soil  of  independence. 
This  side  of  the  picture  was  not  without  its  charms.  But  I  was  pen- 
niless, and  among  strangers ;  in  the  language  of  Dr.  Watts, 

"  Alike  unknowing  and  unknown ;" 

many  miles  from  my  paternal  home ;  longing,  yet  dreading  to  meet 
my  father,  without  even  a  change  of  linen,  or  the  means  of  procuring 
such  a  luxury.  This  side  of  the  picture  was  shaded  in  gloom,  and  I 
hesitated  what  course  to  pursue.  As  a  prompt  decision,  however,  was 
indispensably  necessary,  I  made  up  ray  mind  to  go  home,  and  started 
for  Stonington  on  foot,  trustmg  to  chance  and  charity  for  food  and 
lodging  on  the  road,  and  to  parental  affection  for  a  pardon  and  cordial 
reception  at  the  termination  of  my  journey.  One  of  my  comrades  only 
accompanied  me ;  and  though  his  pockets  were  light  as  my  own,  yet 
*'  misery  loves  company,"  and  our  conversation  tended  to  beguile  the 
tediousness  of  the  way.  80  we  journeyed  on  together,  being  some- 
times received  and  entertained  with  warm  hospitality  and  kindness,  at 
other  times  treated  with  churlish  indilference,  or  repulsed  with  unfeeling 
rudeness. 

AVhen  we  had  arrived  at  a  place  within  about  fifteen  miles  of  Sto- 
nington, my  companion  found  a  friend  from  whom  he  borrowed  a  horse, 
and  rode  on  before  me  to  my  father's  home,  to  communicate  the  intel- 
ligence that  his  son  was  on  the  road,  and  thus  prepare  him  and  the 
family  for  the  approaching  meeting.  From  the  departure  of  my 
messenger  until  the  first  interview  with  my  father,  my  feelings  may 
more  easily  be  conceived  than  described. 

On  hearing  that  his  "  lost  son  was  found,"  and  returning,  like  the 
repentant  prodigal  to  seek  a  reconciliation  with  his  father,  parental 
aliection  triumphed  over  every  other  feeling.  "  And  while  he  was  yet  a 
great  way  off,  his  father  saw  him,  and  had  compassion,  and  ran,  and 
fell  on  his  neck,  and  kissed  him."  This  was  almost  literally  the  case 
with  me.  On  hearing  the  report  of  the  messenger,  my  father  instantly 
ordered  a  carriage,  and  rode  out  of  town  to  meet  me.  I  shall  not 
attempt  to  describe  the  long  desired,  long  dreaded  interview.  It  took 
place  on  the  road,  and  resulted  in  the  mutual  satisfaction  of  both 
parties.  His  heart  was  overflowing  with  tenderness  and  forgiveness  ; 
mine  with  gratitude  and  affection.  The  meeting  with  my  mother, 
sisters,  and  brothers  was  equally  affecting.  "  The  best  robe"  was  put 
upon  me,  "  and  shoes  upon  my  feet."  "  The  fatted  calf  was  killed,'* 
and  we  "  did  all  eat,  and  were  merry." 


xiv  INTRODUCTORY  SKETCH  OF  [1813. 

When  a  state  of  comparative  calmness  had  succeeded  to  this  excite- 
ment, my  father  addressed  me,  nearly  in  the  following  words : 

"  My  son,"  said  he,  "  you  have  my  forgiveness  for  the  past,  and 
also  ray  consent  to  pursue  the  bent  of  your  inclinations,  if  you  are 
still  determined  to  follow  the  sea  for  a  livelihood.  But  as  it  is  neces- 
sary for  you  to  have  education,  I  wish  you  to  stop  on  shore  until  you 
can  acquire  it ;  for  I  shall  then  be  satisfied  that  you  will  be  capable 
of  reaching  an  elevated  rank  in  the  profession,  and  of  becommg  an 
honour  to  the  society  of  ship-masters.  I  loiow  that  you  possess  as 
much  ambition  as  any  lad  of  your  age  in  the  country,  and  are  capable 
of  becoming  whatever  you  please,  if  you  are  careful  to  store  your 
mind  with  useful  knowledge.  You  have  now  health,  strength,  courage, 
and  quick  discernment.  All  that  is  wanting  to  ensure  your  success  is 
a  suitable  education  ;  and  that  you  must  have." 

Though  I  forcibly  felt  and  readily  acknowledged  the  truth  and  jus- 
tice of  these  remarks,  the  "  spirit-stirring"  influence  of  the  times  would 
not  allow  me  to  profit  by  them.  My  country  was  engaged  in  an 
arduous  struggle  with  a  powerful  enemy ;  my  countrymen  were  in 
arms — a  daring  foe  hovered  on  the  coast,  and  our  gallant  tars  were 
reaping  a  harvest  of  glory  on  the  ocean.  During  my  unfortunate  cap- 
tivity, three  of  the  enemy's  first-rate  frigates  had  been  captured,  by 
those  "  American  cock-boats,  with  a  piece  of  striped  bunting  at  their 
mast-head,"  which  were  to  have  been  swept  from  the  ocean  in  half 
that  time.*  The  gallant  Hull  had  conquered  and  sunk  the  boasting 
Guerriere,  in  thirty  minutes.  Decatur  had  captured  the  Macedonian, 
after  an  obstinate  action,  and  brought  her  safely  into  New- York  through 
Long  Island  Sound.  Bainbridge  had  captured  and  destroyed  the 
Java.  Porter  of  the  Essex  had  captured  the  sloop-of-war  Alert,  in 
eiglit  minutes,  without  the  loss  of  a  man.  Jones  of  the  Wasp  had 
captured  the  Frolic  of  22  guns,  in  forty-three  minutes  ;  and  Lawrence 
of  the  Hornet  had  captured  the  Peacock,  of  18  guns,  in  fifteen  min- 
utes. All  these  victories  had  been  achieved  in  the  short  space  of  six 
months,  from  the  19th  of  August,  1812,  to  the  24th  of  February,  1813  ! 

How  could  I  hear  of  these  glorious  events — how  read  of  the  hon- 
ours conferred  upon  the  victors — how  listen  to  the  shouts  of  triumph, 
and  witness  the  splendid  illuminations  lighted  up  in  honour  of  those 
heroes,  without  resolving  to  seek  the  first  opportunity  to  share  in  their 
dangers  and  their  glory  1  even  the  common  sailors  attached  to  our  vic- 
torious sliips  were  treated  on  shore  like  heroes  and  conquerors.  Pub- 
lic dinners  were  provided  for  them  at  the  most  magnificent  hotels  of 
our  principal  cities ;  while  splendid  and  expensive  dramatic  spec- 
tacles were  produced  at  the  theatres  expressly  for  their  amusement. 
With  such  a  luxuriant  field  of  laurels  before  me,  could  I  calmly  look 
on,  and  see  others  reap  all  the  harvest?  Could  I,  in  short,  waste  days, 
and  weeks,  and  months  in  a  village  school,  while  other  lads  of  my  age, 
among  whom  were  several  of  my  own  acquaintances,  were  gaining 
wealth  and  renown  upon  the  ocean  ? 

My  resolution  was  soon  taken.     The  privateer  Joel  Barlow,  a 


*  Vide  English  newspapers  of  that  day. 


1813.]  THE  AUTHOR'S  EARLY  LIFE.  XV 

schooner  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  tons,  pierced  for  fourteen  guns, 
ivas  nearly  ready  for  sea ;  and  1  succeeded  in  obtaining  the  station  of 
quarter-master  on  board  of  her,  under  Captain  Buchanan.  We  set  sail 
with  bright  hopes  and  high  anticipations,  all  of  which  were  destined 
to  terminate  in  cruel  disappointment ;  our  cruise  being  totally  barren 
of  incident,  danger,  or  emolument. 

We  finally  put  into  Charleston,  S.  C,  where  our  little  privateer  was 
converted  into  a  letter-of-marque,  and  laden  with  cotton  for  France. 
Two  nine-pounders  were  all  the  guns  we  retained,  with  eighteen  men 
besides  officers.  We  v/eighed  anchor  at  daybreak  on  the  28th  of  May, 
1813,  and  left  the  port  of  Charleston  in  company  with  the  privateer 
schooner  General  Armstrong,  of  eighteen  guns,  afterward  distinguished 
for  the  gallant  and  desperate  defence  she  made  against  an  overwhelming 
force,  in  Fayal  Roads.  She  was  now  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Champlin ;  who,  a  few  weeks  before,  had  sustained  an  action  with  her 
against  an  English  twenty-four  gun  frigate,  for  forty -five  minutes  within 
pistol  shot ;  and  finally  succeeded  in  escaping,  with  the  loss  of  six 
killed  and  sixteen  wounded. 

The  General  Armstrong,  being  light  and  well  coppered,  soon  left 
us  behind,  and  we  saw  her  no  more.  We  had  five  passengers  on 
board  the  Joel  Barlow,  bound  for  Bordeaux  ;  viz.  a  young  Frenchman 
of  about  twenty-five  years  of  age,  said  to  be  partially  insane  ;  with  his 
mother,  and  another  French  lady :  also,  two  American  gentlemen, 
one  of  whom  was  Major  M.  M.  Noah,  of  New-York,  who  had  been 
recently  appointed  consul  to  Tunis. 

About  the  middle  of  June  (I  kept  no  journal  at  this  time),  we  fell  in 
with  a  fleet  of  English  merchantmen,  steering  a  south-easterly  course  ; 
and  our  captain  proposed  making  love  to  one  of  them ;  not  doubting 
that  our  warlike  appearance  would  induce  an  instant  surrender.  We 
accordingly  gave  chase,  and  came  very  near  catching  a  tartar ;  for  as 
we  neared  our  intended  prize,  she  suddenly  shortened  sail,  displayed  a 
flag  and  pendant,  hauled  up  her  courses,  and  exhibited  a  row  of  teeth 
too  formidable  for  our  present  purpose.  In  short,  it  was  the  guardian 
dog  of  the  flock — an  English  gun-brig  convoying  the  fleet.  The  cap- 
tain saw  his  error  in  time,  appeared  satisfied  with  the  discovery,  and 
we  resumed  our  former  course. 

Our  passage  was  considerably  retarded  and  protracted  by  calms  ; 
so  that  thirty-four  days  had  elapsed  before  we  obtained  a  sight  of  the 
French  coast.  On  the  3d  of  July,  in  the  afternoon,  within  about 
fifty  miles  of  Cordovan  lighthouse,  we  fell  in  with  an  English  gun-brig 
on  the  lee  bow,  and  a  sixteen  gun  cutter  on  the  lee  quarter.  We  im- 
mediately commenced  plying  to  windward,  with  a  fair  prospect  of  es- 
caping our  enemies ;  as  it  was  evident,  after  an  hour's  trial,  that  they 
did  not  gain  upon  us,  and  the  captain  was  only  waiting  for  night  to 
change  our  course.  At  sunset,  however,  we  discovered  to  our  aston- 
ishment an  English  frigate  to  windward,  running  down  directly  on 
our  beam,  with  topmast,  top-gallant,  and  royal  steering  sails  set. 

Escape  was  now  impossible.  She  soon  ran  her  jib-boom  over  our 
quarter,  and  ordered  us  to  haul  down  oursailsand  colours.  We  were 
then  boarded  by  a  lieutenant,  midshipman,  and  several  men  from  the 


xvi  INTRODUCTORY  SKETCH  OF  [1813. 

frigate,  who  informed  us  that  she  was  callctl  the  Briton,  commanded  by 
Siir  Thomas  Staines,  and  ordered  us  all  to  repair  on  board  of  her,  bag 
and  baggage.  We  obeyed  with  all  reasonable  alacrity,  although  it 
was  late  in  the  evening  before  every  thing  was  properly  arranged  and 
settled.  It  was  a  beautiful  moonlight  night ;  and  I  will  not  deny  that 
as  I  gazed  at  the  silver  orb,  I  silently  wished  myself  at  Stonington. 
But  resjets  were  now  useless. 

As  soon  as  we  were  safely  stowed  between  decks,  the  master-at-arms 
ordered  a  sentry  to  be  placed  over  us.  On  the  following  morning,  how- 
ever, as  the  captain  was  examining  the  ship,  seeing  us  under  guard, 
he  called  to  the  master-at-arms,  and  demanded  why  the  marines  were 
placed  over  the  Americans. 

"  Let  them  go  about  their  business,"  ssTid  he ;  and  then,  turning  to 
the  lieutenant,  he  added,  "let  these  American  tars  be  put  in  messes 
among  the  ship's  company ;  and  as  this  happens  to  be  the  4th  day 
of  July,  a  day  which  they  always  celebrate  in  their  proud  and  happy 
coimtry,  tell  ray  steward  to  give  them  six  bottles  of  spirits  from  my 
own  private  stores,  that  thiey  may  drink  to  the  memory  of  the  immor- 
tal Washington,  the  father  of  his  countr}\" 

It  is  perhaps  unnecessary  to  say  that  we  cheerfully  profited  by  this 
unexpected  indulgence  from  a  magnanimous  enemy ;  and  united  in 
celebrating  the  anniversary  of  our  country's  independence  on  board 
of  an  enemy's  ship  of  war,  and  under  the  flag  of  the  same  power  that 
had  so  often  assailed  our  country's  rights. 

On  the  following  day,  our  schooner,  the  Joel  Barlow,  was  sent  to 
England  as  a  prize,  in  charge  of  a  lieutenant,  midshipman,  and  ten 
men.  Our  captain  went  in  her,  but  the  rest  of  us  remained  on  board 
the  Briton.  The  same  day  our  French  passengers  were  disposed  of 
by  putting  them  on  board  a  little  French  fishing-smack  out  of  Rochelle  ; 
although  much  against  the  mclinations  of  the  fishermen,  who  begged 
hard  to  be  excused,  as  they  were  sure  of  being  imprisoned  for  the  ser- 
vice the  moment  they  landed.  All  their  entreaties,  however,  were  un- 
availing. They  were  compelled  to  obey,  and  the  old  lady  and  her 
son,  accompanied  by  the  other  French  lady,  were  received  on  board 
the  smack,  and  we  saw  them  no  more. 

Major  Noah,  the  Tunisian  consul,  and  his  friend,  were  treated  with 
the  greatest  civility  by  Captain  Staines  and  his  oflicers ;  and  also  by 
Admiral  Duncan,  whom  they  visited  by  invitation,  on  board  the  Bulwark 
seventy-four,  as  soon  as  we  reached  Basque  Roads,  where  a  British 
squadron  was  at  anchor,  watching  the  motion  of  the  French,  and  pick- 
ing up  adventurers  like  ourselves.  The  consul  was  afterward  trans- 
ferred to  the  Rippon  seventy-four,  and  finally  sent  to  England,  in  the 
Goldfinch  brig.  From  thence  he  proceeded  on  his  mission  to  Tunis, 
by  the  way  of  Spain. 

A  different  destiny  awaited  myself  and  comrades.  We  were  trans- 
ferred to  the  Sultan  seventy-four  ;  from  thence  to  the  Clarence  seventy- 
four  ;  in  which  we  were  conveyed  to  Plymouth,  and  put  on  board  a 
prison-ship,  where  we  remained  about  one  month,  and  were  then  taken 
to  Dartmoor  Prison.* 

'*  This  prison  is  situated  on  an  extensive  7noor,  through  which  flows  the  river  Dart ;  hence  tht 
name  of  Dartmoor ;  as  the  seaport  town  at  the  mouth  of  the  same  river  is  called  DartmoxUh, 


1815.]  THE  AUTHOR'S  EARLY  LIFE.  xvii 

In  this  dreary  abode  we  found  above  eight  thousand  Frenchmen,  and, 
about  half  that  number  of  Americans,  all  prisoners  of  war.  Here  we 
received  every  indulgence  that  could  be  expected  under  such  circum- 
stances ;  and  though  we  had  no  more  than  the  customary  "  prisoner's 
allowance"  of  food,  what  we  had  was  good  and  wholesome.  We  en- 
joyed the  privilege  of  an  excellent  market,  at  the  regular  prices  of  the 
country,  where  every  thing  offered  for  sale  was  obliged  to  be  of  the 
best  kind.  No  imposition  was  allowed  to  be  practised  on  the  prisoners 
by  the  English  farmers.  We  had  our  own  cooks,  and  our  own  nurses 
in  the  hospital ;  and  the  doctor  was  one  of  the  best  and  most  humane 
of  men.  His  name  was  M'Graw,  and  he  was  justly  beloved  and  re- 
spected by  every  American  in  Dartmoor  prison.  We  had  the  liberty 
of  a  large  yard  from  daylight  until  dark ;  and  a  certain  number  of 
the  prisoners  were  each  day  permitted  to  go  outside  the  walls  to  work, 
for  which  they  were  regiilarly  paid  by  the  captain  of  the  prison. 
Within  the  walls  we  amused  ourselves  with  schools,  dramatic  per- 
formances, and  a  variety  of  games  and  plays.  Li  fact^  I  cannot  con- 
scientiously accuse  the  British  of  any  inhumanity  towards  the  Ameri- 
can prisoners  during  all  my  detention  of  thirty-one  months  in  St.  John's 
and  at  Dartmoor,  excepting  the  atrocious  massacre  at  the  latter  place 
in  April,  1815,  after  the  peace.  The  history  of  this  affair  is  familiar 
to  every  reader.  The  American  prisoners  were  fired  upon,  by  order 
of  the  infamous  Capt.  Shortland,  when  eight  were  killed,  and  thirty- 
seven  wounded !  ( 

More  than  seventeen  years  have  passed  away  since  that  horrid 
event  occurred,  and  the  vital  current,  of  course,  flows  more  calmly:*- 
through  my  veins  ;  it  is  also  not  always  right  to  probe  a  healing  wound : 
yet  I  cannot,  at  this  moment,  refer  to  the  affair  without  experiencing 
an  unpleasant  glow  of  indignation  which  it  is  difficult  to  suppress.  It 
is  the  feeling  of  an  unatoned  injury  rankling  in  my  bosom.  Had  I 
been  one  of  the  wounded,  I  could  not  be  more  sensitive  on  the  subject, 
I  feel  it  as  an  American.  It  is  true  that  some  sort  of  an  investigation 
took  place — a  kind  of  mock  trial ;  but  it  resulted  in  nothing  satisfac- 
tory to  the  friends  of  the  deceased,  or  the' surviving  wounded  invalids^, 
the  most  of  whom  will  bear  the  marks  of  their  wrongs  to  the  grave. 

Why  was  not  satisfaction  demanded  for  this  brutal  outrage  1  The 
humblest  American  citizen  is  as  much  entitled  to  the  protection  of  his 
government  as  the  most  elevated.  Surely  they  who  fight  the  battles 
of  their  countiy,  and  stand  ready  to  shed  their  blood  freely  as  water 
to  sustain  her  honour  and  her  rights,  ought  not  to  be  wantonly 
maltreated  without  receiving  some  adequate  atonement  from  the 
assassins. 

About  the  1st  of  May,  1815,  the  joyful  assurance  of  our  immediate 
release  was  received  in  Dartmoor  prison,  and  a  few  days  afterward 
we  were  marched  to  Plymouth,  where  we  embarked  for  the  land  of 
liberty,  our  country,  and  our  homes.  In  the  latter  part  of  June  I  once 
more  stepped  upon  American  ground,  with  a  heart  full  of  gratitude  to 
our  heavenly  Father  for  having  again  redeemed  me  from  captivity, 
supported  me  through  numerous  dangers  and  difficulties,  and  finally 
restored  me  to  the  land  of  my  nativity  in  safety  and  in  health.     We 

B 


Xviu  INTRODUCTORY  SKETCH  OF  [1815. 

landed  at  Boston,  and  I  lost  no  time  in  hastening  to  Stonington,  where 
I  had  the  additional  satisfaction  of  finding  my  parents  and  all  the  family 
in  perfect  health.  It  was  a  joyful  meeting,  after  an  absence  of  more 
than  two  years.  I 

tf  As  our  country  was  now  at  peace,  and  my  love  of  hardy  enterprise 
not  yet  satisfied,  I  soon  began  to  look  about  for  some  active  and  manly 
employment,  congenial  with  my  roving  propensities.  I  therefore,  after 
taking  an  affectionate  leave  of  my  friends,  repaired  to  New-York,  where 
I  fell  in  with  my  old  friend  Captain  Cartwright,  who  now  commanded 
the  ship  New-York  Packet,  and  was  bound  to  Bordeaux.  Wishing 
to  see  a  little  of  France,  I  did  not  hesitate  to  ship  myself  on  board  his 
vessel,  which  shortly  proceeded  on  her  voyage. 

»  In  about  three  months  we  returned  to  New- York,  where  intelligence 
of  the  most  distressing  nature  awaited  me.  During  my  absence,  four 
of  our  family  had  perished  in  the  most  dreadful  manner — namely,  my 
mother,  my  grandmother,  my  sister,  and  my  cousin.  This  afflicting 
dispensation  happened  in  the  great  gale  of  September  23,  1815. 

This  was  the  most  tremendous  and  disastrous  tornado  ever  witnessed 
in  the  United  States.  It  commenced  at  about  four  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing. At  nine  it  blew  a  fresh  gale  from  the  east,  with  some  rain.  By 
twelve  the  wind  was  south-east,  and  had  increased  to  a  perfect  hurri- 
cane. It  drove  the  water  into  Providence  River  to  the  height  of  twelve 
feet  above  its  usual  high-water  mark,  destroying  much  property  and 
many  lives.  But  at  Stonington,  the  home  of  my  parents,  sisters,  and 
brothers,  the  effects  of  this  gale  were  most  disastrously  exhibited,  and 
most  severely  felt.  At  ten  o'clock,  A.  M.  the  tide  had  risen  so  as  to 
■sweep  all  the  wharves.  A  vast  number  of  stores  and  houses  were  de- 
molished, blown  to  pieces,  and  washed  away  by  the  sea — and  my 
father's  house  among  the  rest.*  Business  had  called  him  away  from 
his  family  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morning ;  and  when  the  danger  be- 
gan to  be  alarming,  the  water  had  risen  to  such  a  height  that  he  could 
Tiot  return  !  He  had  advanced  so  far  as  to  be  in  full  view  of  his  house  ; 
but  an  impassable  gulf  prevented  his  nearer  approach.  The  house 
was  now  surrounded  and  more  than  half-filled  by  the  unnatural  deluge, 
the  surface  of  which  was  covered  with  floating  timbers,  planks,  and 
other  evidences  of  its  ravages.  The  family  had  retreated  to  the  roof. 
Many  attempts  had  been  made  to  cross  the  raging  whirlpool  in  boats, 
with  the  vain  hope  of  rescuing  the  ill-fated  sufferers  from  their  im- 
pending destiny.  My  father  rushed  forward  to  succour  the  helpless 
victims,  with  a  desperation  bordering  on  phrensy ;  but  was  forcibly 
restrained  by  his  more  considerate  or  less  excited  friends.  There 
stood  the  distracted  husband  and  father,  surrounded  by  his  neighbours, 
gazing  on  the  heart-appalling  scene,  unable  to  afford  relief!  He  saw 
the  beings  who  were  dearer  to  him  than  life,  clinging  to  the  chimney 
of  their  habitation  for  support,  and  shrieking  for  assistance  which 
Heaven  alone  could  give.  He  saw  them,  one  by  one,  torn  from  their 
hold  by  the  relentless  element !  He  saw  them  perish,  and  could  afford 
no  help ! 

*  Tbe  loss  of  property  sustained  by  my  father  on  this  occasion  was  considerable. 


1815-21.]  THE  AUTHOR'S  EARLY  LIFE.  XJX 

'■/  This  was  dreadful  news  to  me  ;  but  our  domestic  calamities  did  not 
terminate  here.  In  about  six  months  afterward,  we  were  called  to 
mourn  the  loss  of  two  more  of  the  family — two  brothers,  who  also  met 
a  watery  death.  It  was  now  feared  by  all  that  my  father  would  sink 
under  the  weight  of  this  accumulated  affliction,  and  lose  his  reason,  if 
not  his  life.  But  we  were  spared  such  an  addition  to  our  present 
troubles.  Summoning  to  his  aid  a  manly  philosophy,  combined  with 
a  pious  resignation  to  the  will  of  Providence,  he  bore  up  against  the 
load  of  sorrow  with  a  fortitude  and  calmness  beyond  our  expectations. 

In  the  height  of  these  calamities,  one  person  only  proffered  assist- 
ance of  a  more  substantial  nature  than  mere  unavailing  expressions 
of  sympathy.  This  noble  and  disinterested  friend  was  no  other  than 
Silas  E.  Burrows,  Esq.,  who  stepped  forward  like  a  man — nay,  like 
an  angel  of  merny— and  took  under  his  protection  my  two  little  mother- 
less sisters,  to  whom  he  has  shown  every  mark  of  tenderness  and 
affection  that  it  is  possible  even  for  a  fond  father  to  evince  for  his 
dearest  child.  May  the  choicest  blessings  in  the  gift  of  a  bountiful 
Providence  be  showered  upon  him  and  his.  But  this  was  no  solitary 
instance  of  this  good  man's  benevolence.  His  general  character  is 
above  the  reach  of  my  feeble  panegyric ;  thousands  are  living  who 
"will  readily  bear  testimony  to  his  worth  as  a  citizen,  and  liis  virtues 
as  a  man. 

In  the  mean  time  my  ruling  passion  was  as  restless  as  ever,  pointing 
to  new  scenes,  in  the  most  remote  sections  of  the  globe.  I  obeyed 
the  impulse,  and  visited  several  parts  of  the  eastern  world  in  rapid 
succession.  Madras,  Calcutta,  Batavia,  Canton,  Bengal,  and  New- 
Holland.  These  voyages  I  performed  in  diiTerent  ships,  before  the 
mast, — the  only  school  in  which  good  seamanship  can  be  successfully 
and  practically  taught  or  learned. 

During  all  this  period,  however,  I  was  justly  considered  a  very 
*'  wild  youth."  How  long  I  should  have  continued  in  this  thoughtless 
career  of  folly  it  is  not  easy  to  determine,  had  not  Divine  Providence 
raised  up  for  me  a  faithful  friend  and  adviser  in  the  person  of  Captain 
Josiah  Macy,  master  of  the  ship  Edward  of  New- York,  belonging  to 
Samuel  Hicks  and  himself.  On  a  voyage  to  Calcutta,  this  worthy 
man,  who  is  a  pattern  for  all  ship-masters,  took  me  from  before  the  mast, 
and  by  his  watchfulness  and  fatherly  advice  directed  my  attention  to 
more  manly  and  useful  plirsuits  ;  nor  did  he  remit  his  guardian  care 
until  he  saw  me  master  of  a  ship.  \ 

Thus  was  I  diverted  from  the  path  of  indiscretion,  which  too  often 

conducts  to  ruin,  by  the  unsolicited  friendship  and  benevolent  feelings 

of  an  entire  stranger,  who  long  acted  towards  me  the  part  of  a'parent 

and  a  tutor  ;  labouring  incessantly  to  supply  the  glaring  defects  of  my 

education  (or,  more  properly,  my  want  of  education),  and  to  eradicate 

'from  my  mind  the  seeds  of  folly,  and  plant  in  their  stead  the  seeds  of  , 

'useful  knowledge  ;  and  finally,  putting  me  forward  in  the  world  as  a 

'man  of  business,  and  thus  securing  me  an  honourable  rank  among  my 

fellow-citizens.     Heaven  grant  that  I  may  feel  properly  grateful  for , 

such  inestimable  favours.     As  an  evidence  that  I  profited  by  them,  the 

vear  1819  saw  my  name  enrolled  in  the  honourable  list  of  married 

B2 


Xa  INTRODUCTORY  SKETCH  OF  [1821/ 

men !  I  shall  not  trouble  the  reader  with  my  "  whole  course  of 
woomg ;"  a  record  of  the  result  is  sufficient  lor  my  present  purpose. 

Having  heard  much  of  the  South  Shetland  Islands,  and  the  stirring 
incidents  of  a  sealing  voyage  in  the  South  Seas,  I  felt  a  strong  desire 
to  become  a  partaker  in  the  labours  and  profits  of  such  an  enterprise. 
Accordingly  in  the  month  of  June,  1821,  I  accepted  the  office  of  first 
mate  on  board  the  schooner  Wasp,  belonging  to  James  Byers,  M'Intire, 
Nixson,  and  B.  W.  Rogers  of  New-York,  and  commanded  by  Captain 
Robert  Johnson.  My  brother  also  went  out  in  the  same  vessel,  as 
second  mate.  We  had  a  fine  passage  to  the  Falkland  Islands, 
where  we  fomid  the  brig  Aurora  on  shore  at  New-Island,  in  Shallop 
Cove.  After  a  short  stay  here,  we  started  for  Staten  Land,  where  we 
came  to  anchor  on  the  15th  of  September,  in  East  Harbour.* 

I  now  took  my  brother,  with  the  two  boats  well  manned,  and  started 
on  a  cruise  around  the  island  in  search  of  fur  seal.  But  this  day's 
cruise  had  wellnigh  proved  my  last ;  for  in  attempting  to  land,  with 
two  of  my  boat's  crew,  an  accident  happened  which  threatened 
fatal  consequences  both  to  them  and  myself.  As  a  hea\y  swell  was 
rolling  into  the  shore,  I  ordered  the  two  men  to  land  before  me,  con- 
fident that  I  could  gain  the  top  of  the  rock  before  the  next  roller 
came  in.  But  here  I  unfortunately  overrated  my  own  agility,  and 
miscalculated  the  velocity  of  *'  the  saucy  billow,"  for  before  either 
of  us  could  obtain  a  good  foothold,  a  very  heavy  roller,  full  fifteen 
feet  in  height,  came  swiftly  in,  and  swept  all  three  of  us  off"  the  rock. 
Being  in  the  rear  of  my  men,  it  struck  me  with  much  greater  violence 
than  it  did  them,  plunging  me  downwards  with  great  velocity.  I 
struggled  manfully  with  the  gigantic  assailant,  but  before  I  could  clear 
myself  from  the  kelp  and  undertow,  and  rise  again  to  the  surface,  I 
had  become  so  completely  strangled  with  water  that  it  was  useless  to 
close  my  mouth,  as  no  more  could  enter  h. 

During  all  this  struggle  my  presence  of  mind  did  not  once  forsake 
me.  My  thoughts  flew  like  lightning  over  the  actions  of  my  past 
life ;  indeed,  the  rapidity  with  which  I  recalled  every  single  transac- 
tion of  departed  years  is  truly  incredible.  I  reviewed  the  whole,  but 
among  a  mass  of  youthful  follies  I  beheld  no  crime  for  which  I  could 
condemn  myself.  Nothing  troubled  me  but  the  idea  of  leaving  my 
little  family  so  poorly  provided  for,  and  exposed  to  the  insults  and  impo- 
sitions of  an  unfeeling  \vorld. 

Perceivmg  that  my  strength  was  wasting  very  rapidly,  I  made  a 
desperate  eftbrt  to  swim  off  shore  to  my  boat,  which  I  saw  just  out- 
side of  the  breakers,  and  near  her  the  boat  of  my  brother,  who  was 
pulling  in,  and  admonishing  me  at  the  same  time,  in  a  loud  but  cheer- 
ful voice,  to  keep  up  my  spirits  for  a  minute  or  two  longer,  when  he 
would  be  able  to  reach  and  assist  me. 

All  my  attempts  to  swim  off  shore  were  frustrated  by  the  hea\y 
rollers,  throwing  me  back  towards  the  rocks.  I  therefore  changed 
my  purpose,  and  made  several  trials  to  reach  the  shore ;  but  just  as  I 
coidd  almost  touch  the  rocks  which  lined  it,  theundertow  would  take 

*  Seo  chapter  iii. 


If -21.]  THE  AITHOR  S  EARLY  LIFE.  xxi 


me  fittecfi  or  Ttrenty  feet  beneilh  the  water.  At  le■gd^  when  mv 
jfie«ble  lOiuggica  had  once  more  imaed  me  to  the  soHace^  I  found  that 
my  strength  had  oitirdy  left  me :  and  eeai^g  to  stn^gle,  I  passiTely 
and  dmdy  descended,  cemfident  that  I  ecMdd  never  come  up  ai' 
widMNit  assiatanee,  and  fe(£ng  that  after  snch  powerful  exer 
and  eonseqoent  (atigve,  it  was  sweet  to  rest,  eren  if  it  were  t^e  res  . . 
death! 

AVhea  I  had  slowly  sunk  ahoot  two  fitct  below  the  surfece,  ii: 
an  erect  posture^  with  mj  laee  i]ff  dioie,  and  mr  ejes  o^&l,  I  - 
my  brother^  boat  cominsr  in,  cm  a  Teiy  heairy  roUcr;  he  appearing 
dmnnined  io  sare  or  perish  with  me.  As  the  boat  came  in  with 
great  Telocity,  I  saw  him  standSng  in  the  bow,  with  a  coiled  hne  in 
ius  hand  ready  to  throw  to  my  assistance,  which  he  did  as  soon  as  he 
came  within  proper  di&tance,  and  widi  sodi  aecoracy  that  the  coil, 
setdittg  much  faster  than  I  did,  came  Erectly  OTer  my  head.  Heaven 
gave  nje  strength  to  clench  it  in  my  hand,  whicii  I  did  with  a  death- 
gripe,  and  in  the  ne3:t  moment  my  brother  had  hokt  of  me. 

^  Stem,  aH  !*  he  exdaimed,  and  die  oars  wore  Tigoraody  plied  to 
pail  the  boat  backwards  fiom  the  breakers ;  hot  before  she  eonld  dear 
them,  die  came  veiy  near  stanfing  on  end  or  pitdipoling. 

Thus  far  my  senses  feithfoUy  peifemed  their  seTeral  fimctioDs.  I 
could  see,  hear,  fed,  think,  reason,  and  draw  omdusions.  Bui  the 
instant  I  was  raised  to  the  smiace,  and  feh  die  bieaih  of  heaTen  on 
my  face,  I  knew  no  more,  but  lay  insoisible,  apparmtiy  dead,  for  four 
hoars ;  during  aD  which  time  no  human  str^igth  conld  compel  my 
fingers  to  rdax  thdr  hdd  of  die  cord  whidi9  mider  Providence,  saved 
me  from  a  watery  grare, 

When  I  recovered  my  senses,  I  found  that  I  had  cascaded  a  vast 
quaaiiiy  of  sah  water,  and  fdt  myself  utteriy  prostrated  with  excessive 
weakness.  The  boats  were  now  pulling  for  the  schooner,  which  they 
reached  about  midni^t,  die  watdi  on  deck  haTing  called  Captain 
Johnson,  on  seeing  us  approach.  Mf  brother'^s  boat  was  the  first  to 
get  alongside,  when  he  briefly  commimicated  to  the  captain  the  nature 
of  my  sitoattOD.  The  mtmiait  I  was  lifted  from  the  boat  to  die  deck 
of  the  Wasp  I  foimd  myself  in  the  arms  of  Ca|>tain  Johnson ;  who, 
with  a  fidl  heart  and  oveifiowii^  eyes,  iiiiiiiediatel^  retomed  thanks  to 
God  for  my  truly  miraculous  deliverance. 

From  Sraten  Land  we  shaped  our  course  for  the  South  Shetland 
Idands,*  and  arrived  at  Monroe*s.  after  a  pleasant  run  of  four  days, 
with  light  winds  from  the  east  and  noith-east,  and  dear  weather.  In 
crotsii^  among  d&ese  islands  we  eicpericnced  many  dangers  and  hair- 
Ineaddi  e8ca|>es  from  the  fields  of  ice  which  frequently  sunv>unded  our 
litde  TesseL  Our  situation  at  times  was  peculiarly  haxardous,  cheer- 
less, and  londy« — no  other  vessd  appearing  in  those  seas  to  intenmpt 
the  solitude  which  surrounded  us  for  sixteen  days,  although  we  wete 
dafly  expecting  the  brig  Jane  Maria,  of  Xew-York,  bdonging  to  the 
same  ooncom,  for  which  we  were  to  prepare  a  cargo  (^  sea-elephant 
oil  orblobber. 

On  the  third  day  after  our  arrival  we  explored  our  way.  widi  ex- 

*  Sec  cteft.  liL 


jjxii  INTRODUCTORY  SKETCH  OF  [1821. 

treme  difficulty  and  not  a  little  danger,  through  the  ice,  as  far  to  the 
eastward  as  Yankee  Harbour.  Before  we  reached  this  place,  however, 
being  then  about  three  miles  from  it,  we  became  completely  enclosed 
in  the  centre  of  a  vast  field  of  ice ;  and  before  we  could  rescue  the 
vessel  from  tliis  unpleasant  and  perilous  situation  it  came  on  to  blow  a 
smart  gale  from  the  S.S.W.,  nearly  dead  on-shore.  In  the  course  of 
two  hours  the  violence  of  the  wind  had  raised  a  heavy  and  dangerous 
sea,  which  caused  these  large  cakes  of  ice,  about  six  feet  in  thickness, 
to  surore  against  the  schooner  with  alarming  force.  This  rendered 
our  situation  extremely  critical ;  and  we  made  several  bold  attempts 
to  force  the  vessel  through  the  ice  into  clear  water,  which  was  now 
only  about  three  hundred  yards  from  us. 

Convinced,  at  length,  that  our  ice-bound  schooner  could  not  be  made 
to  move  without  putting  on  her  such  a  press  of  canvass  as  would, 
almost  to  a  certainty,  carry  away  her  masts,  as  the  gale  was  increasing 
every  moment,  Captain  Johnson  ordered  the  sails  to  be  taken  in,  and 
the  boats  to  be  prepared  with  provisions,  muskets,  ammunition,  and 
fireworks, — in  order  that  we  might  haul  them  to  the  shore  over  the 
ice,  in  case  of  the  last  extremity, — as  there  was  every  prospect  of  the 
schooner's  going  to  pieces  if  she  continued  much  longer  in  her  present 
dangerous  situation.  But  by  the  time  the  boats  were  in  readiness  the 
<;rew  had  become  completely  disheartened, — the  mildest  prospect  be- 
iore  them  being  that  of  perishing  with  the  cold  on  the  ice,  if  they 
escaped  a  watery  grave  ! 

At  this  juncture  of  affairs  Captain  Johnson,  myself,  and  brother 
held  a  consultation,  which  resulted  in  a  determination  to  force  the  ves- 
sel through  the  ice,  at  the  hazard  of  her  masts.  Should  we  remain 
iDuch  longer  where  we  were,  our  fate  \\;as  inevitable  ;  and  we  could  but 
perish  at  last,  if  the  masts  went  by  the  board.  It  was  a  desperate 
alternative ;  but  possibly  it  might  prove  successful.  Captain  Johnson 
gave  the  word,  and  I  sprang  forward  to  see  it  executed. 

*'  All  hands,  ahoy !  to  make  sail !"  I  exclaimed,  and  the  crew  were 
instantly  in  readiness.  "My  brave  lads,"  I  continued,  "you  all  see 
our  danger,  and  must  exert  yourselves  to  escape  it.  Active  obedience 
and  manly  presence  of  mind  can  now  alone  save  us.  I  know  you  too 
"well  to  doubt  your  skill  and  courage.  Cheer  up,  my  hearties,  and  ex- 
ert yourselves  like  men  in  making  sail  to  save  the  vessel  and  your 
lives.  Let  us  give  the  little  Wasp  all  her  canvass,  and  she  will  either 
carry  us  safely  out  of  this  perilous  situation,  or  lose  her  limbs  in  the 
attempt." 

This  brief  exhortation  had  the  desired  effect.  Every  man  sprang 
to  his  duty  with  renovated  cheerfulness  and  alacrity ;  and  in  a  few 
minutes  all  the  heavy  canvass  in  the  vessel  was  spread  to  the  gale. 
Such  is  the  salutary  influence  of  a  little  seasonable  excitement  on 
desponding  minds. 

Our  little  bark  vainly  struggled  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  the 
masts  yielding  to  the  unwonted  pressure  as  far  as  the  shrouds  and 
Ijackstays  would  permit.  On  the  strength  of  this  cordage  our  redemp- 
tion now  depended.  We  watched  her  motion  whh  an  almost  breath- 
less anxiety.     At  length  Ave  perceived  that  she  began  to  move,  at  the 


1321.]  THE  AUTHOR'S  EARLY  LIFE.  xxiii 

iardy  rate  of  about  twice  her  length  in  twenty  minutes.  This  slow 
movement,  however,  was  gradually  accelerated,  until,  in  about  twenty- 
five  minutes,  we  found  her  approaching  the  outer  edge  of  her  ice-bound 
prison  with  great  velocity.  It  was  now  deemed  necessary  to  shortea 
sail,  lest  her  still  increasing  speed  should  drive  some  sharp  fragment 
of  ice  through  her  bottom.  Every  sail  was  therefore  taken  in,  except 
the  head  of  the  foresail ;  by  which  time  we  were  in  clear  water,  where 
we  hove  the  vessel  to  under  two  reefs  in  her  foresail,  which  was  now 
as  much  canvass  as  she  was  able  to  stand  under  in  such  a  gale. 

On  the  following  day  the  gale  abated,  fine  weather  succeeded,  and 
the  sea  soon  became  smooth.  It  was  now  found  necessary  to  get  the 
vessel  into  a  safe  anchorage  as  soon  as  possible.  This  was  finally 
eff*ected  by  the  discovery  of  a  new  and  commodious  harbour,  to  which, 
in  honour  of  our  worthy  captain,  we  gave  the  name  of  Johnson's  Har- 
bour. Here  we  came  to  anchor,  and  enjoyed  a  little  respite  after  oiu; 
late  danger  and  fatigue. 

The  next  morning  my  brother  and  myself,  each  in  command  of  a 
well-furnished  whale-boat,  started  on  a  cruise  in  search  of  sea-ele- 
phants. Our  boats  were  equipped  and  stored  with  every  thing  neces- 
sary for  such  service, — such  as  provisions,  arms,  fireworks,  tent,  <fec. 
After  coasting  along  the  shore  for  about  thirty  miles  to  the  westward, 
we  discovered  the  objects  of  our  search  on  the  beach,  in  immense 
multitudes,  to  the  amount  of  at  least  ten  thousand.  Exulting  in  the 
prospect  of  a  successful  enterprise,  we  immediately  selected  a  con- 
venient spot  and  pitched  our  tent,  which  was  made  of  No.  1  canvass, 
and  of  sufficient  capacity  to  accommodate  the  crews  of  both  whale- 
boats.  Here  we  encamped,  in  the  midst  of  our  imconscious  victims, 
which  were  scattered  around  us  in  numbers  more  than  sufiicient  foe 
our  present  purpose, — which  was  merely  to  provide  a  cargo  of  seven 
hundred  barrels  of  oil  for  the  brig  Jane  Maria,  of  New-York,  and 
which  we  eflfected  in  a  very  short  time. 

As  soon  as  the  brig  arrived  and  took  charge  of  the  oil,  we  weighed 
anchor  and  shaped  our  course  to  the  north-east,  in  search  of  fur-seals. 
This  unwearied  activity  was  characteristic  of  our  enterprising  and 
amiable  commander.  On  the  accomplishment  of  one  object  he  pro- 
ceeded to  another  without  a  moment's  delay.  But  it  is  to  be  feared 
that  this  laudable  ambition  at  length  carried  him  too  far,  and  that  he 
has  fallen  a  victim  to  that  spirit  of  manly  enterprise  by  which  he  was 
always  actuated.  He  sailed  from  New- York  in  1826,  on  a  voyage  to 
the  South  Seas,  but  has  not  been  heard  of  since  he  left  the  south  cape 
of  New-Zealand,  in  1827. 

We  arrived  at  the  Seal  Islands  in  the  latter  part  of  November,  1821, 
but  found  very  little  game  to  reward  us  for  the  trouble  of  coming 
thither.  Captain  Johnson,  therefore,  whose  active  spirit  would  not 
permit  him  to  linger  among  these  islands  in  idleness,  adopted  the 
resolution  of  sailing  eastward  in  search  of  new  lands.  So  we  took 
our  boats  on  deck,  and  steered  between  the  east  and  the  south,  until 
the  second  day  of  December,  at  one  o'clock,  when  the  man  at  mast- 
head gave  the  cheering  crj^  of  "  Land,  ho  !  Land,  ho  !" 

This  proved  to  be  an  island,  bearing  east-half-south,  distant  five 


xxir  INTRODUCTORY  SKETCH  OF  [1821. 

leagues ;  not  noticed  on  any  chart.  At  2  P.  M  the  wind  had  died 
away  to  a  dead  cahn.  Knowing  this  to  be  a  new  discovery,  and 
anxious  to  ascertain  if  there  were  any  fur-seal  on  its  shores,  I  prevailed 
on  Captain  Johnson  to  let  me  take  my  boat  and  visit  the  stranger. 
The  boat  was  accordingly  lowered  and  manned,  and  at  half-past  two 
our  brave  lads  began  to  pull  for  the  shore,  which  was  now  about  ten 
miles  from  us.  Our  orders  were  to  return  before  dark,  and  in  case 
of  a  breeze  springing  up,  to  look  for  the  Wasp  under  the  lee  of  the 
island.  Our  men  gave  way  with  great  spirit  and  alacrity,  cheered 
with  the  hope  of  finding  on  the  shores  of  our  new  discovered  island  an 
abundance  of  mat  amphibious  game  of  which  we  were  in  search. 

After  two  hours'  hard  rowing  our  boat  reached  the  beach,  and  anx- 
ious to  be  the  first  man  on  shore,  I  resigned  the  steering  oar  to  one  of 
the  men,  and  sprang  into  the  bows  of  the  boat,  from  whence  I  leaped 
to  land  before  a  particle  of  sand  had  been  disturbed  by  her  keel. 
Here  were  no  inhabitants  either  to  bid  me  welcome  or  to  resent  the 
intrusion,  with  the  exception  of  some  twenty  sea-dogs,  reposing  on 
the  beach,  and  their  tacit  liospitality  we  inhumanly  rewarded  by  des- 
patching five  of  the  handsomest,  and  making  free  with  their  jackets. 

On  what  trifling  contingencies  depend  important  events !  This 
little  adventure  proved  the  means  of  saving  our  lives  !  But  for  the 
capture  of  these  sea-dogs,  our  boat  and  crew,  in  all  human  probability, 
would  never  have  been  heard  of  more,  nor  would  this  humble  narra- 
tive have  ever  been  put  to  paper !     But  I  will  not  anticipate. 

We  now  proceeded  to  explore  the  beach  in  search  of  fur-seal,  and 
.soon  feel  in  with  a  yearling  of  the  right  sort.  This  put  our  lads  in 
iine  spirits,  as  it  seemed  the  earnest  of  some  heavy  rookeries*  ahead. 
But  in  this  hope  we  were  all  sadly  disappointed ;  for  after  vainly 
exploring  above  ten  miles  of  the  shore,  which  aboimded  with  spots 
of  fine  beach,  and  places  suitable  for  seal  in  a  parturient  state,  we 
gave  up  the  search  in  despair,  and  prepared  to  return  to  our  vessel. 

It  was  now  near  eight  o'clock,  P.  M.,  and  the  wind  had  commenced 
blowing  a  smart  breeze  from  the  west,  attended  with  light  snow- 
squalls.  The  Wasp,  as  we  expected,  was  lying-to  on  the  leeward 
side  of  the  island,  at  the  distance  of  about  ten  miles,  bearing  E.N.E. 
by  compass.  AVe  unmoored,  hoisted  sail,  and  steered  directly  for  the 
schooner  with  a  fair  wind,  until  we  were  within  about  two  miles  and 
a  half  of  her,  when  a  thick  snow-storm  set  in,  while  the  wind  contin- 
ued to  freshen.  We  still  shaped  our  course  for  the  position  in  which 
the  Wasp  was  last  seen,  lying-to  with  her  starboard  facks  on  board, 
bearing  E.  by  N.  half  N.  Consequently,  we  steered  E.  by  N.  for 
about  two  miles,  when  we  commenced  firing  muskets  every  five  min- 
utes, until  we  judged  ourselves  to  be  near  the  schooner. 

Not  receiving  any  answer  to  our  signal-guns,  we  turned  the  boat's 

*  As  this  noun,  in  both  its  numbera,  will  frequently  occur  in  the  course  of  this  work,  it  may  not  be 
improper  in  this  place  to  explain  its  meaning.  The  word  rookery,  which  properly  means  "a  nur- 
sery of  rooks,"  has  been  applied  by  all  our  South  Sea  navigators  to  the  breeding  encampments  of 
■various  oceanic  animals,  such  as  seal,  penguins,  &c.  It  is  possible,  however,  that  it  may  have 
been  derived  from  the  verb  to  rook,  or  to  ruck,  which  signifies  to  squat ;  to  bend  and  set  close,  to 
cower,  <fec.  At  the  risk  of  transgressing  the  canons  of  criticism,  I  shall  use  the  term  rookery  as 
it  is  understood  by  South  Sea  sailors—"  a  spot  selected  by  certaun  animals  for  the  pur^wseof  bring- 
iag  forth  their  young." 


\ 


1821.]  THE  AUTHOR'S  EARLY  LIFE.  '       XXV 

head  to  windward,  took  in  the  sails,  and  pulled  towards  the  island ; 
making,  how^ever,  but  very  little  headway.  In  this  manner  we  pro- 
ceeded until  it  began  to  grow  dark,  which  in  this  latitude,  and  at  that 
season,  was  at  half  past  ten,  P.  M.  At  this  time  the  haze  opened  a 
little,  so  that  we  obtained  a  sight  of  the  schooner  bearing  S.W.  by 
W.  five  miles  to  windward,  under  a  heavy  press  of  sail,  with  her 
larboard  tacks  on  board.  The  island  now  bore  W.  by  S.  distant 
seven  miles,  as  we  had  gained  about  two  miles  in-shore. 

The  wind  had  now  increased  to  a  perfect  gale,  and  our  situation 
every  moment  became  more  and  more  critical.  Presuming  that  Cap- 
tain Johnson  did  not  see  the  boat,  and  finding  that  we  were  rapidly 
losing  ground,  the  crew  became  very  much  disheartened.  The  snow- 
storm again  set  in,  thicker  than  ever ;  so  that  we  soon  lost  sight  both 
of  land  and  vessel.  The  gale  continued  to  increase  in  violence,  and  the 
waves  in  magnitude ;  so  that  it  was  almost  impossible  to  keep  the  boat's 
head  to  the  windward.  I  now  found  it  absolutely  necessary  to  adopt 
some  other  method  to  keep  her  in  that  position  than  merely  hanging 
upon  our  oars  ;  for  unless  her  head  was  pointed  to  the  seas,  she  would 
inevitably  fill.  To  prevent  such  a  catastrophe,  I  fortunateh^  hit  upon 
the  following  expedient. 

We  bent  or  fastened  one  end  of  the  boat's  warp  to  the  five  seal- 
skins we  had  taken  in  the  afternoon,  and  at  about  three  fathoms  dis- 
tance from  the  skins,  we  secured  the  oars  to  the  same  cord.  In  order 
to  prevent  the  latter  proving  too  buoyant,  we  loaded  them  with 
the  boat's  anchor,  secured  by  what  cordage  we  could  command,  such 
as  the  halyards  and  sheets  of  our  sails.  As  soon  as  this  rude  appa- 
ratus was  completed,  we  committed  it  to  the  waves,  paying  out  about 
twenty  fathoms  of  the  warp,  which  we  secured  to  the  bow  and  stern 
thwarts,  keeping  it  well  parcelled  in  the  chucks,  to  prevent  its  chafing. 
When  this  was  all  properly  arranged,  we  stowed  ourselves  in  the 
centre  of  the  boat,  and  soon  found  that  one  man  could  now  keep  her  free, 
by  baling  only  half  his  time,  although  the  sea  ran  excessively  heavy, 
and  the  gale  blew  with  such  violence  that  it  was  almost  impossible  to 
breathe  while  looking  to  windward. 

Still,  however,  our  little  boat  made  very  good  weather  of  it.  The 
oil  which  worked  from  the  blubber  attached  to  the  skin  so  smoothed 
the  rough  billows  that  not  a  sea  broke  near  the  boat.  For  the  space 
of  twenty-four  hours  we  thus  rode  by  our  floating  anchor,  in  a  tre- 
mendous gale  of  Avind,  a  very  heavy  sea,  and  a  violent  snow-storm. 
During  this  time  we  must  have  drifted  to  leeward  at  least  fifty  miles, 
as  there  was  no  land  in  sight  when  the  storm  abated,  and  the  weather 
became  clear.  Our  newly  discovered  island  could  have  been  easily 
discerned  at  the  distance  of  forty  miles. 

Although  the  storm  had  abated,  our  situation  was  still  extremely 
perilous.  We  had  neither  provisions  nor  quadrant  on  board  the  boat, 
in  the  high  latitude  of  60°  30',  and  were,  in  fact,  destitute  of  every 
thing  necessary  to  extricate  ourselves  from  this  awkward  predicament. 
To  add  to  the  difiiculties  and  dangers  which  surrounded  us,  the  feet, 
hands,  and  ears  of  the  crew  began  to  be  frozen.  I  noAv  fomid  myself 
compelled  to  exercise  some  severity  towards  the  poor  fellows,  in  order 
topreventtheirperishing  with  the  cold.     That  treacherous  and  horrid 


XXvi  INTRODUCTORY  SKETCH  OF  [1821. 

drowsiness  which  is  ever  the  precursor  of  death  by  freezing  came 
over  them  with  almost  resistless  force,  and  I  knew  tliat  he  who  slept 
would  wake  no  more.  I  therefore  adopted  every  method  I  could  think 
of  to  arouse  their  almost  dormant  faculties,  and  could  only  succeed 
by  exciting  some  turbulent  passion.  I  also  compelled  them  to  dip 
their  hands  and  feet  into  the  water  every  few  minutes,  to  prevent  their 
freezing  any  more  ;  as  I,  who  set  the  salutary  example,  escaped  the 
slightest  touch  of  the  frost.  The  moment  I  felt  a  sensation  of  numb- 
ness in  my  extremities,  I  dipped  the  affected  part  in  the  salt  water, 
and  the  feeling  was  almost  immediately  removed. 

On  the  3d  of  December,  at  nine  o'clock,  A.  M.,  the  gale  subsided, 
and  was  succeeded  by  fair  weather.  We  now  weighed  our  floating- 
anchor,  the  wind  having  shifted  to  the  south,  and  again  set  sail  in 
search  of  our  new  island.  The  course  we  steered  was  W.S.W., 
running  at  the  rate  of  five  miles  an  hour,  until  two  o'clock  the  next 
morning,  December  4th ;  when,  to  our  unspeakable  joy,  we  found  our- 
selves close  in  with  our  little  island,  which  we  had  left  two  days  before. 
At  four  o'clock,  A.  M.,  we  had  the  additional  pleasure  of  discovering 
the  schooner  to  the  eastward,  steering  directly  for  the  island,  and  at 
half  past  six  we  were  once  more  safe  on  the  bright  decks  of  the  Wasp, 
where  my  brave  boat's  crew  received  the  cordial  embraces  of  their 
sympathizing  shipmates.  It  was  necessary,  however,  that  this  inter- 
change of  congratulation  should  be  abridged,  as  my  men  were  much 
frost-bitten,  and  quite  exhausted  for  the  want  of  food  and  rest ;  the 
little  bread  we  had  on  board  the  boat  being  completely  soaked  with 
the  salt  water. 

i  As  respects  myself,  I  was  received  by  the  captain  and  my  brother 
as  one  risen  from  the  dead.  Both  of  them  shed  tears  of  joy,  and  fer- 
vently expressed  their  thanks  to  Heaven  for  my  deliverance.  They 
had  given  us  up  for  lost,  concluding  it  impossible  that  our  little  boat 
coidd  weather  such  a  gale,  or  live  an  hour  in  such  a  sea.  Even  the 
schooner  had  suffered  considerably,  having  part  of  her  bulwark  washed 
away  while  lying-to  in  the  height  of  the  gale,  which  split  one  three- 
reefed  foresail  and  one  balance-reefed  mainsail.  She  had  also  drifted 
about  ninety  miles  to  the  eastward. 

Captain  Johnson  had  seen  our  boat  just  as  the  snow-storm  set  in, 
and  concluded  that  we  would  immediately  steer  for  the  land,  whicli 
was  what  we  vainly  attempted  to  do.  At  half  past  ten,  P.  M.,  when 
the  snow  cleared  off  for  a  few  minutes,  he  could  discover  nothing  of 
us  from  the  masthead ;  and  finding  the  gale  increasing  to  such  an 
alarming  degree  of  violence,  attended  with  so  rough  a  sea,  he  naturally 
concluded  that  the  boat  must  have  been  swamped,  and  that,  as  a  neces- 
sary consequence,  all  hands  had  perished ;  as  it  seemed  to  him,  he 
said,  "  utterly  impossible  for  any  boat  to  live  at  sea  in  so  violent  a 
gale,  with  the  sea  running  so  high  as,  at  times,  almost  to  bury  the 
schooner."  It  M'as  nothing,  under  Providence,  but  the  soft  persuasive 
influence  of  our  sea-dog  oil,  that  partially  appeased  the  angry  god  of 
the  ocean,  and  restrained  his  fury  from  filling  the  little  bubble  of  a 
vessel  in  which  we  floated.  To  the  God  of  gods  we  gave  the  praise, 
for  to  him  alone  was  it  due.  t 

At  eight  o'clock,  A.  M.  we  once  more  sat  down  to  a  warm  breakfast ; 


1822.]  THE  AUTHOR'S  EARLY  LIFE.  xxvii 

and  at  nine,  P.  M.,  having  examined  the  coast  to  our  satisfaction,  and 
finding  no  seal,  we  steered  for  Staten  Land,  where  we  again  fell  in 
with  the  brig  Jane  Maria,  bound  to  New-York.  As  this  vessel  was 
also  under  the  orders  of  Captain  Johnson,  though  now  in  the  charge 
of  one  in  whom  he  had  not  the  most  implicit  confidence,  he  expressed 
a  wish  that  I  would  take  passage,  and  navigate  her  to  New- York.  I 
cheerfully  complied  with  my  worthy  friend's  wishes,  and  embarked  on 
board  the  Jane  Maria,  which,  in  a  few  days  afterward,  arrived  at  the 
Falkland  Islands.  Here  we  remained  about  a  month,  for  the  purpose 
of  taking  fur-seal,  and  then  set  sail  for  the  United  States.  After  a 
pleasant  passage  of  fifty-eight  days,  we  arrived  in  safety  at  the  port  of 
New- York,  on  the  26th  of  April,  1822.  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  find- 
ing my  family  and  all  my  friends  enjoying  good  health ;  but  shall  not 
trouble  my  readers  with  any  trite  remarks  respectmg  the  pleasure  of 
meeting  those  we  love,  after  so  long  an  absence ;  presuming  that  they 
know  as  much  about  it  as  I  can  tell  them.  At  any  rate,  they  will  not 
look  for  sentiment  in  the  rough  journal  of  a  sailor.  * 

On  the  day  after  my  arrival,  our  owners  having  perused  the  letters 
which  I  brought  from  Captain  Johnson,  Mr.  Byers  promptly  offered 
me  the  command  of  a  vessel,  if  I  would  wait  a  month  or  two ;  at  the 
expiration  of  which  time  it  would  be  the  proper  season  to  commence 
a  South  Sea  voyage  for  the  purpose  of  sealing,  trading,  and  making 
new  discoveries.  I  readily  acceded  to  this  proposal,  and  immediately 
took  charge  of  the  schooner  Henry,  to  have  her  repaired  and  fitted 
against  the  return  of  Captain  Johnson,  who  was  then  to  take  the  com- 
mand, and  resign  the  Wasp  to  me.  In  about  six  weeks  the  latter 
vessel  made  her  appearance,  with  a  cargo  of  hair-seal  skins — last  from 
the  island  of  Mocha  ;  and,  in  due  time,  Captain  Johnson  and  myself 
exchanged  places.  I  then  took  both  vessels  up  to  the  ship-yard  of 
Messrs.  Blossom,  Smith,  and  Damon,  to  be  thoroughly  overhauled, 
repaired,  and  fitted  for  a  long  voyage. 

When  the  two  vessels  were  properly  fitted  for  sea,  and  removed 
from  the  ship-yard  to  the  stations  assigned  them  for  that  purpose,  we 
commenced  taking  in  provisions  and  salt  for  a  sealing  voyage,  which 
it  was  calculated  would  occupy  about  two  years  •,  while  both  com- 
manders were  vested  with  discretionary  powers  to  prosecute  new  dis- 
coveries, and  to  trade  for  the  benefit  of  all  concerned.  Each  vessel 
^vas  therefore  liberally  and  bountifully  supplied  with  every  thing 
necessary  and  comfortable  for  such  an  expedition,  by  James  Byers, 
Esq.,  one  of  the  owners.  In  naming  this  gentleman,  I  cannot  avoid 
expressing  the  high  estimation  in  which  I  hold  his  character  for  honour, 
liberality,  mercantile  integrity,  and  every  manly  virtue. 

In  due  time  our  two  schooners  were  completely  equipped  and  ready 
for  a  two  years'  cruise  in  the  South  Seas,  Antarctic  Seas,  and  Pacific 
Ocean ;  both  of  them  being  strong,  stanch,  well-rigged,  fast-sailing 
vessels.  On  the  30th  day  of  June,  1822,  we  prepared  to  set  sail — 
having,  of  course,  previously  taken  leave  of  our  friends,  and  parted 
with  some  perhaps  for  ever !  At  eight,  A.  M.,  the  pilot  came  on  board, 
when  we  got  under  way,  and  put  to  sea  with  a  fine  breeze  from  the 
S.AV.  and  fair  weather.  The  journals  of  this  and  three  subsequent 
voyages  form  the  contents  of  the  following  pages. 


VOYAGE 

TO   THE 

SOUTH  SEAS  AND  PACIFIC  OCEAN. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Thoughts  on  a  Polar  Expedition — Objects  of  the  present  Voyage — Departure  from 
IS'ew- York— Fourth  of  July — Crossmg  the  Equator — Visit  from  Father  Nep- 
tune— ^Arrival  at  St.  Ann's  Islands — Village  of  St.  Joao  de  Macae— Cape 
Frio — Arrival  at  Rio  Janeiro — Directions  for  Entering  the  Harbour — De- 
scription of  St.  Sebastian's — Its  Trade  and  Commerce — Beauty  of  the  sur- 
rounding Country — Natural  Productions — Character  of  the  Inhabitants. 

NoTWiTHSTAXDiXG  the  length  of  time  which  has  elapsed  since  the 
discovery  of  the  western  continent,  and  the  consequent  impulse  given 
to  the  spirit  of  discovery,  it  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  the  most  in- 
terpsting  section  of  this  terraqueous  globe  still  remains  unexplored,  and 
almost  totally  unknown.  It  is  a  reproach  to  every  civilized  country, 
that  the  people  of  this  enlightened  age  possess  so  little  accurate  know- 
ledge of  the  seas,  islands,  and  perhaps  continents  which  exist  in  the 
polar  regions  of  the  southern  hemisphere. 

Many  enterprising  navigators  of  the  last  and  present  centuries 
have  made  highly  laudable,  and  some  of  them  partially  successful, 
attempts  to  penetrate  the  cloud  of  mystery  which  still  hangs  over  the 
Antarctic  Seas.  But  every  one  has  stopped  at  a  certain  point,  timidly 
slirinking  from  the  farther  prosecution  of  what  they  deemed  an  im- 
practicable project.  Some,  it  is  said,  have  even  been  deterred  by  a 
superstitious  notion  that  an  attempt  to  reach  the  South  Pole  was  a 
presumptuous  intrusion  on  the  awful  confines  of  nature, — an  milawful 
and  sacrilegious  prymg  into  the  secrets  of  the  great  Creator ;  who,  they 
contend,  has  guarded  the  "  ends  of  the  earth"  with  an  impa-ssable 
bulwark  of  indissoluble  ice  ;  on  which  is  written,  "'  Thus  far  shalt  thou 
come,  but  no  farther ;  and  here  shall  thy  proud  course  be  stayed." 
Such  an  idea  would  have  become  the  inquisitors  of  Spam  in  the  days 
of  Columbus. 

Admitting  for  a  moment,  however,  that  such  is  the  fact,  and  that 
nothing  less  than  a  miracle  could  open  the  passage  through  this  for- 
midable barrier,  I  contend  that  genius,  science,  and  energy  com- 
bined can  work  miracles,  and  even  remove  mountains ;  for  what  is  a 
miracle  but  the  power  of  spirit  over  matter — the  triumph  of  mind  over 


30      '  DEPARTURE  FROM  KEW-YORK.  [1822^ 

physical  impediments.  The  march  of  intellect  is  irresistible  ;  and 
were  the  earth  itself  one  globe  of  ice,  the  fire  of  genius,  directed  by 
the  wand  of  science,  could  melt  a  passage  to  its  centre.  The  day 
as  not  far  distant  when  a  visit  to  the  South  Pole  will  not  be  thought 
more  of  a  miracle  than  to  cause  an  egg  to  stand  on  its  point. 

I  have  long  been  of  this  opinion ;  and  the  voyage  of  which  I  am 
now  about  to  give  a  plain  but  correct  narrative  has  strengthened  that 
opinion  to  a  firm  conviction.  One  grand  object  of  this  voyage  was  to 
acquire  a  more  accurate  knowledge  of  the  Antarctic  Seas,  and  to 
ascertain  the  practicability,  under  favourable  circumstances,  of  pene- 
trating to  the  South  Pole.  For  the  furtherance  of  this  object,  I  was 
vested  with  discretionary  powers  by  the  owners  of  the  Wasp,  a  fine  fast- 
sailing  schooner,  fitted  out  for  the  purpose,  well  manned  and  equipped, 
and  intrusted  to  my  command.  We  set  sail  from  the  port  of  New- 
York  on  Sunday  morning,  the  30th  of  June,  1822,  with  a  fair  wind 
and  pleasant  weather. 

*  July  \st. — At  six  o'clock,  P.  M.,  having  discharged  the  pilot,  we 
took  our  departure  from  Sandy  Hook  lighthouse,  bearing  W.N.W. 
distant  seven  leagues,  and  steered  a  S.E.  course,  with  a  fine  breeze 
on  our  starboard  beam.  This  was  on  the  afternoon  of  Monday,  the 
first  day  of  July,  1822  ;  a  year  rendered  somewhat  memorable  in  the 
city  of  New- York,  by  the  last  visitation  of  that  terrible  scourge,  the 
yellow  fever,  which  made  its  appearance  about  the  1st  of  August,  a 
month  after  our  departure,  and  did  not  stay  its  ravages  mitil  the  Oc- 
tober following. 

I  The  favourable  auspices  under  which  we  commenced  our  voyage 
were  hailed  as  auguries  of  a  successful  result,  and  soon  banished  from 
our  minds  every  little  tender  regTct  which  parting  interviews  might 
have  left  lingering  about  the  heart.  The  wind  was  sufficiently  fair  for 
the  course  we  lay ;  the  weather  was  pleasant,  and  the  crew  in  high  spirits. 
'  July  4:th. — Thursday,  the  4th,  being  the  anniversary  of  our  ooun- 
try's  independence,  the  star-spangled  banner  was  hoisted  at  sunrise, 
while  a  grand  national  salute  reminded  old  Neptune  that  freemen  ac- 
knowledged no  earthly  power  as  mistress  of  the  ocean.  The  crew  on 
this  occasion  were  furnished  with  an  extra  allowance  of  such  good 
things  as  tended  to  enliven  their  patriotism,  and  brighten  their  ideas  of ^ 
national  glory ;  during  the  discussion  of  which  we  of  the  quarter- 
deck were  not  niggardly  in  setting  them  a  good  example.  We  were 
now  in  latitude  36°  6'  N.,  long.  66°  15'  W.— fair  weather. 
^  Friday^  July  5th,  completed  the  27th  year  of  my  age.  The  annual 
return  of  one's  birth-day  is  always  a  suitable  subject  for  serious  re- 
flection ;  and  on  this  occasion  I  reviewed  the  little  checkered  scene 
of  my  past  years  with  mingled  sensations  of  pleasure  and  regret. 
Bright  anticipations  of  the  future,  however,  soon  became  predominant 
in  my  imagination.  At  a  comparatively  early  age,  I  had  been  deemed 
worthy  to  take  charge  of  an  expedition  intended  not  only  to  benefit 
those  immediately  interested  and  concerned,  but  also  to  aid  the  cause 
of  science,  and  add,  perhaps,  one  little  ray  to  the  already  dazzling 
glory  of  my  country.  This  single  idea,  in  the  mind  of  an  enterprismg 
young  man,  is  certainly  a  sufficient  excitement  to  a  faithful  discharge 


Aug.]  CROSSING  THE  EQUATOR.  '    31' 

of  his  trust.     Our  latitude  this  day  at  noon  was  35°  55'  N.,  long.  63^ 
45'  W. — weather  pleasant. 

.  July  22d. — Although  we  left  New-York  with  a  fair  wind  and  pleasant 
weather,  experience  had  taught  us  not  to  expect  a  long  continuance  of 
such  favourable  circumstances.  We  were  not  disappointed,  therefore,, 
in  meeting  a  due  share  of  baffling  winds  and  occasional  foul  weather. 
Such,  in  fact,  Avas  the  case  with  us  until  Monday,  July  22d,  when  we 
took  the  N.E.  trade-winds,  in  latitude  28°  N.,  long.  40°  30'  W.  On 
the  following  day  the  sun  entered  the  sign  of  Leo. 

July  2dd. — We  crossed  the  tropic  of  Cancer  on  Tuesday,  the  23d, 
at  live  o'clock,  P.  M.,  in  long.  40°  J 1'  W. — wind  from  E.N.E.,  and  fair 
weather. 

July  SOth. — For  about  a  week  we  were  favoured  with  the  N.E.  trade* 
wind,  and  were  within  two  hundred  leagues  of  the  equator,  when  it 
forsook  us,  on  Tuesday,  the  30th,  in  lat.  10°  10'  N.,  long.  36°  15'  W. 
From  this  time,  for  twelve  days,  we  had  light  variable  winds  from 
S.S.W.  to  S.S.E.  attended  with  heavy  rains.  ^ 

,  August  1st. — Thursday,  the  first  day  of  August,  completed  just  320 
years  since  Columbus  first  discovered  the  continent  of  South  America,  on 
which  he  landed  sixteen  days  afterward.  This  fact  occurred  to  my 
mind  in  association  with  an  important  item  m  my  instructions — namely, 
to  make  a  critical  survey  of  the  South  American  coast,  from  Cape  Cor- 
rientes  to  Cape  Horn  ;  and  as  far  north  on  the  Pacific  side  as  circum- 
stances would  permit.  It  is  a  remarkable  fact,  that,  after  landing  on 
this  vast  continent,  and  surveying  much  of  its  coast,  Columbus  lived  and 
died  under  the  impression  that  it  was  an  island,  and  that  all  his  new 
discoveries  were  on  the  eastern  coast  of  Asia !  Our  latitude  this  day 
at  noon  was  8°  27'  N. 

August  I2th. — On  Monday,  the  12th,  we  crossed  the  equator,  in  long. 
26°  42'  W.  Agreeably  to  ancient  usage  on  such  occasions,  we  were 
honoured  by  a  visit  from  Father  Neptune,  who  courteously  bid  us  wel- 
come into  the  southern  hemisphere;  in  return  for  which  civility,  his  health 
was  drunk,  if  not  in  ambrosial  nectar,  at  least  in  beverage  which  sailors 
are  quite  as  fond  of.  The  usual  ceremony  of  shaving  and  ducking  the 
novitiates  was  then  performed  with  the  customary  solemnities,  conse- 
crated by  copious  libations.  Having  by  these  indispensable  rites  pro- 
pitiated the  favour  of  our  tutelar  deity,  he  most  graciously  took  his 
leave,  wishing  us  a  prosperous  voyage.  We  therefore  advanced  with 
confidence  into  the  southern  section  of  his  extensive  domains. 
\  For  nearly  a  fortnight  previous  to  this  date,  we  had  light  variable 
"wrnds  from  quarters  not  very  favourable  to  our  wishes  ;  from  S.S.W. 
to  S.S.E.  :  but  we  now  took  the  south-east  trade-wind,  in  lat.  1° 
-17''  S.,  long.  26°  42'  W.  This  wind  blew  from  S.S.E.  to  E.S.E., 
and  enabled  us  to  lay  our  course  S.W.  for  the  islands  of  St.  Ann's, 
which  lie  oflf  the  coast  of  Brazil,  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  Macae. 
^  We  continued  this  S.W.  course  for  about  twenty  days,  wafted 
gently  along  by  the  light  trade-wind,  attended  with  pleasant  weather. 
In  this  passage  we  frequently  amused  ourselves  with  catching  dolphins, 
porpoises,  benotas,  skipjacks,  (fee,  besides  some  sharks,  and  pilot- 
fish.     Independent  of  the  sport  attending  the  capture  of  these  inhab- 


^  ST.  ANN'S— CAPE  FRIO.  [1822. 

itants  of  the  deep,  some  of  thera  were  very  acceptable  for  the  table, 
after  being  without  fresh  provisions  for  so  many  days. 

September  2d. — We  arrived  at  St.  Ann's  Islands  on  Monday,  the 
2d  day  of  September.  These  islands  lie  in  latitude  22^  24'  30"  S., 
long.  41°  47'  15"  W.,  directly  before  the  mouth  of  the  river  Macae, 
about  three  miles  from  the  shore.  The  entrance  to  this  river  is  not 
more  than  forty  fathoms  broad,  and  unfit  for  vessels  of  more  than  250 
tons  burthen.  A  little  south  of  its  mouth,  and  close  to  the  shore,  is  a 
ledge  of  rocks,  which  must  be  carefidly  avoided  ;  but  every  other  part 
of  the  coast  near  the  entrance  appears  to  be  free  from  any  such 
hidden  danger. 

On  tlie  northern  side  of  the  harbour's  mouth  is  the  village  of  St. 
Joao  de  Macae,  consisting  of  about  125  houses,  some  of  which  not 
only  present  a  handsome  appearance,  but  are  quite  commodious  in 
their  internal  arrangements.  Most  of  them,  however,  are  of  an  infe- 
rior class,  consistmg  of  a  single  story,  small  and  inconvenient.  The 
exteriors  of  all  of  them  are  either  painted  or  whitewashed,  ^vhich 
gives  the  village  a  picturesque  appearance  from  a  distance.  A  few 
edifices  of  superior  style  and  dimensions  occupy  an  eminence  near 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  on  the  summit  of  which  are  the  church  and 
flag-staff.  Here  a  flag  is  displayed  w^hen  the  passage  is  safe,  for  the 
information  of  approaching  vessels. 

In  entering  the  harbour  it  is  necessary  to  keep  close  to  the  rocky 
point  on  the  south  side,  and  w^hen  abreast  of  it,  to  let  go  an  anchor,  giving 
the  vessel  about  twenty  fathoms  of  cable.  The  Moro,  or  castle  of 
St.  Joao,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  river,  is  a  conspicuous  mark  to 
designate  the  bay  of  St.  Ann's.  Its  situation  is  in  lat.  22°  31'  S.,  long. 
42°  8'  W.  The  coast  hence  to  Cape  Frio,  with  its  numerous  little 
islands,  will  be  best  understood  by  referring  to  the  late  charts  of  the 
Brazilian  coast.  In  running  for  this  cape,  the  navigator  will  find  it  a 
high,  rough  promontory,  separated  from  the  mainland  by  an  inlet, 
which  forms  a  snug  harbour.  The  cap  of  the  cape,  for  shape  and 
appearance,  is  the  most  remarkable  and  important  landfall  on  this  part 
of  the  coast.  The  land  between  the  promontory  and  the  entrance  of 
Rio  Janeiro  is  mostly  low  and  sandy ;  but  as  it  recedes  back  into  the 
country,  it  rises  into  elevated  and  uneven  mountains,  presentmg  a 
very  beautiful  and  picturesque  appearance.  The  latitude  of  the  pitch 
of  Cape  Frio  is  23°  0'  30"  S.,  long.  42°  2'  45"  W. 

The  harbour  of  Cape  Frio  is  formed  by  Cape  Island,  and  is  about  a 
mile  in  extent  each  way,  with  a  depth  of  water  varying  from  twenty 
to  six  fathoms.  The  best  entrance  is  at  the  east,  and  on  the  south 
side  of  an  islet  called  Jiha  dos  Porcos.  This  passage  is  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  in  width,  and  the  depth  of  water  in  the  chaimel  varies  from 
twenty-five  to  fifteen  fathoms,  with  a  bottom  of  fine  sand  and  mud. 
There  is  also  a  passage  at  the  west  end  of  the  harbour,  but  that  is  only, 
suitable  for  boats.  About  twenty  ships  may  lie  in  this  harbour  in 
perfect  safety.  Fresh  water  may  be  had  at- the  wells  in  the  coves  on 
the  N.  and  N.W.  There  are  wells,  also,  on  an  island  at  the  west 
end  of  the  harbour,  where  some  huts  are  to  be  seen.     The  tide  flows 


Sept.]  ST.  SEBASTIAN'S.  33 

here  on  the  days  of  new  and  full  moon,  until  nine  o'clock,  and  rises 
about  five  feet. 

Vessels  bound  to  Rio  Janeiro,  when  approaching  Cape  Frio  by 
night,  from  E.  to  S.E.,  should  be  careful  not  to  run  into  the  bay  to 
the  north  of  the  cape.  Such  neglects  or  inattentions  to  the  ship's 
reckoning  offen  prove  fatal  to  the  vessel.  The  appearance  of  the 
cape  in  approaching  it  from  this  direction  is  somewhat  remarkable ; 
rising  in  two  well-defined  mounds  or  hummocks,  pointed  at  their  sum- 
mits, bearing  a  very  exact  resemblance  to  a  lady's  bosom.  The 
Tt'ater  about  the  cape  is  deep,  as  it  is  also  around  the  islands  in'  the 
vicinity.  Consequently  ships  may  run  for  the  cape  at  night  with 
safety,  provided  proper  attention  be  paid  to  the  reckoning,  and  the 
weather  be  tolerably  clear. 

At  the  distance  of  sixty-four  miles  from  Cape  Frio,  lat.  23^  2' 
45"  S.,  is  a  small  low  island,  called  Flat  Island,  on  which  stands  a 
lighthouse,  and  at  one  and  a  half  miles  to  the  west  is  another  island, 
more  elevated,  called  Round  Island.  These  islands  are  sometimes 
called  Maurice  Islands,  and  are  very  useful  marks  for  ships  running, 
for  tlie  harbour  of  Rio  Janeiro.  Vessels  bound  for  this  harbour,  after 
passing  Cape  Frio,  should  steer  due  west,  keeping  about  four  leagues 
from  the  shore  in  the  night,  and  about  one  league  and  a  half  in  the 
daytime,  till  they  make  Round  Island,  which  will  be  seen  before  Flat 
Island,  although  the  former  lies  nearly  two  miles  farther  to  the  west- 
ward. The  currents  on  this  coast  generally  set  due  east  or  west,  and 
often  at  the  rate  of  one  and  a  half  miles  an  hour. 

Between  Cape  Frio  and  the  entrance  to  Rio  Janeiro,  the  greatest 
part  of  the  coast  is  low  and  sandy,  and  within  the  beach  are  several 
extensive  lagoons.  The  only  remarkable  headland  between  the  cape 
and  Rio  Janeiro  is  Point  or  Cape  Negro,  which  is  the  extremity  of  a , 
ridsre  of  high  land  extending  from  the  north  to  the  seashore.  This 
headland  lies  thirty-two  miles  to  the  westward  of  Cape  Frio. 

In  the  direction  of  W.S.W.  four  leagues  distant,  within  about  a 
league  from  the  shore,  are  three  small  islands,  called  the  Maricas, 
about  four  leagues  E.  by  S.  from  the  entrance  to  Rio  Janeiro.  With 
Round  Island  in  sight  to  the  westward,  the  Marica  Isles  (in  a  direct 
line  with  each  other,  nearly  north  and  south)  will  be  descried  to  the 
northward,  and  may  be  passed  in  safety  within  half  a  mile. 

September  4th. — We  arrived  at  St.  Sebastian's,  Rio  Janeiro,  on 
Wednesday,  the  4th  day  of  September.  The  entrance  to  this  cele- 
brated river  is  very  plain,  being  formed  by  a  naiTOW  opening  in  a 
ledge  of  rocks,  which  skirts  the  coast  in  this  vicinity,  and  is  easily 
distinguished  by  the  Gavia  Corcovadia  mountains,  on  the  south-west 
side  ol'  the  harbour.  There  are  no  pilots  to  be  found  ofT  the  coast ; 
for  as  there  are  no  hidden  dangers  to  encounter  in  going  into  the  har- 
bour, the  assistance  of  professional  pilots  is  deemed  unnecessary. 
When  the  sea-breezes  are  "strong  enough  to  enable  ships  to  stem  the 
ebb-tide,  vessels  of  any  size  may  enter  this  port,  by  day  or  night,  and 
repose  in  the  beautiful  basin  above  with  perfect  safety.  On  entering 
at  night,  however,  the  fort  Santa  Cruz  makes  a  signal  to  the  city,  by 
firing  two  guns,  and  showing  two  lights.     This  is  not  to  be  under- 


34  .  CITY  OF  RIO  JANEIRO.  [1832. 

atood  as  interfering  with  the  vessel  that  is  entering  the  passage ;  for 
the  port  regulations  of  the  place  require  all  vessels  to  bring-to  a 
little  below  fort  Do  Vilganhon.  Any  vessel  attempting  to  pass  before 
she  has  been  visited  will  be  fired  at  from  the  fort,  and  the  commander 
will  be  liable  to  imprisonment,  in  addition  to  paying  a  line  for  each 
gun  so  discharged. 

In  entering  this  port,  the  navigator  must  take  care  to  pass  within 
hail  of  fort  Santa  Cruz,  in  order  to  answer  any  questions  that  may  be 
asked,  and  he  will  find  sufficient  depth  of  water  close  to  the  rocks, 
even  for  a  ship  of  the  line.  This  ceremony  complied  with,  he  must 
steer  for  fort  Do  Vilganhon,  opposite  to  which  he  must  either  lie-to 
or  come  to  anchor,  and  not  permit  any  boat  to  come  alongside,  except 
those  of  the  government,  until  he  obtains  a  pass,  or  pratique.  This 
necessary  talisman  will  open  a  passage  for  him  to  the  island  of  Cobras, 
©r  Copper  Serpent  Island,  the  place  of  anchorage  for  merchant-ships. 
On  this  island  are  works  of  defence,  magazines,  dock-yards,  wharves,  &c. 

Rio  Janeiro  is  the  capital  of  all  the  Portuguese  dominions  in  America. 
In  former  times  Bahia  dos  Todos,  or  Santos,  was  the  principal  seat  of 
government  and  chief  mart  for  commerce  in  the  Brazils ;  but  the  dis- 
f(4»v€ry  and  improvement  of  the  gold  and  diamond  mines  within  one 
hundred  leagues  of  the  city  of  Rio  Janeiro,  or  St.  Sebastian's,  gave  a 
decided  preponderance  to  the  latter.  The  city  is  built  on  a  plain  at 
the  west  side  of  the  harbour  or  bay,  at  the  foot  of  several  high  moun- 
tains which  rise  behind  it.  It  extends  into  the  bay  on  a  projecting 
peninsula,  or  tongue  of  land,  about  four  miles  within  the  mouth  of  the 
harbour.  The  river,  or  arm  of  the  sea,  on  which  it  stands,  derives  its 
name  from  having  been  discovered  on  the  day  of  the  feast  of  St.  Jan- 
Karius;  or  on  the  first  day  of  January,  in  the  year  1516. 

The  entrance  into  the  harbour  from  the  sea  is  bounded  on  the  west 
^ide  by  a  leaning  conic  eminence  called  Sugar-loaf  Hill,  a  gigantic  rock 
a  thousand  feet  high  ;  and  on  the  other  side  by  the  huge  mass  of  granita 
supporting  the  castle  of  Santa  Cruz.  This  entrance  being  narrow,  and 
well  fortified  by  nature,  the  port  might  easily  be  rendered  impregnable 
to  an  enemy.  The  castle  or  fortress  just  named  may  be  considered 
the  principal  work  of  defence.  There  is  a  battery  of  some  extent  on 
the  other  side,  at  the  foot  of  Sugar-loaf  Hill;  but,  like  many  others 
along-shore,  it  has  become  almost  useless  by  neglect.  The  city  de- 
rives but  little  protection  from  its  immediate  fortifications ;  and  the 
island  of  Cobras,  notwithstanding  its  contiguity,  is  little  calculated  to 
afford  the  city  any  assistance  in  case  of  invasion. 

The  city  is  well  built,  the  houses  in  general  being  of  stone,  and  two 
stories  high,  having  a  little  balcony  before  the  windows,  and  a  lattice 
of  wood  l^fore  the  balcony,  after  the  fashion  of  the  European  Portu- 
guese and  Spaniards.  The  streets  are  not  broad,  but  quite  straight, 
crossing  each  other  at  right  angles.  The  palace,  or  imperial  resi- 
dence, fronts  the  water ;  and,  with  the  public  square  adjoining,  is  in 
full  view  from  the  anchorage.  This  edifice,  however,  though  exten- 
sive in  dimensions,  has  nothing  particularly  magnificent  in  its  appear- 
ance to  indicate  its -being  the  mansion  of  royalty.  There  are  also  a 
number  of  churches,  but  not  remarkable  for  splendour  or  elegance,  ex.- 


JSept.]  HARBOUR  OF  RIO  JANEIRO.  35 

cepting  the  royal  or  imperial  chapel,  which  adjoins  the  palace.  On 
the  same  side  of  the  square,  also,  are  the  theatre  and  opera  house, 
neither  of  which  presents  a  very  striking  appearance.  The  exterior  of 
the  theatre,  however,  is  fully  equal  to  the  performances  within,  which 
are  wretched  abortions.  Their  operas  are  better  conducted,  as  the 
Brazilians  appear  to  possess  a  natural  talent  for  music,  which  they  ex- 
ecute with  much  taste  and  effect. 

The  market  is  well  supplied,  and  so  eligibly  located,  that  with  a 
very  little  trouble,  it  might  be  kept  in  fine  order :  but  the  inhabitants 
are  idolaters  at  the  shrine  of  Filthiness,  whose  nostrils,  if  there  be 
such  a  goddess,  must  be  perpetually  regaled  with  the  odour  of  her  fa- 
vourite incense.  The  public  square  before  mentioned,  and  some  of 
the  streets  in  its  vicinity,  are  kept  tolerably  clean,  but  most  of  them 
are  disgustingly  filthy.  Gold-street  is  the  most  attractive,  being  the 
general  resort  of  strangers  whose  object  is  to  procure  jewelry  and 
precious  stones,  the  natural  product  of  the  country.  Here,  however, 
they  too  often  suffer  from  an  organized  system  of  imposition  and  fraud. 
Since  tliis  place  has  become  the  seat  of  government,  great  numbers 
of  commercial  adventurers  have  flocked  hither  from  England,  Ireland, 
Scotland,  and  the  United  States.  The  most  of  these,  under  Portu- 
guese tuition,  prove  to  be  apt  pupils  in  the  school  of  knavery ;  so 
that  from  any  of  them  a  stranger  is  more  than  likely  to  receive  a  bit 
of  paste,  while  he  pays  for  a  genuine  gem. 

The  shops  are  well  supplied  with  English  goods,  and  all  other  kinds 
of  merchandise ;  the  trade  of  this  place  being  considerable  from  va- 
rious parts  of  the  world.  There  is  a  Chinese  warehouse  of  great  ex- 
tent ;  where,  at  certain  periods,  the  merchandise  of  that  country  may 
be  purchased  at  a  low  rate.  Sixty  or  seventy  American  and  English 
mercantile  houses  are  established  here,  and  the  export  trade  is  almost 
entirely  in  their  hands.  The  imports  consist  of  English  manufac- 
tures, and  every  article  of  Eiu-opean  produce  that  can  find  a  purchaser 
in  the  Brazilian  market.  Their  principal  exports  are  sugar,  coffee,  and 
hides ;  and  the  Rio  coffee  holds  the  third  rank  in  the  American  market. 
Besides  these,  the  country  produces  wheat,  rice,  cocoa,  cotton,  tobacco, 
salt,  and  wood.  It  has  recently  been  asserted  that  the  trade  of  Bra- 
zil has  lately  become  unprofitable  to  the  foreign  merchant,  from  the  ex- 
cess of  capital  employed  in  it ;  and  that  European  produce  is  now 
sold  at  or  below  prime  cost.  Ho^vever  this  may  be,  the  revenue  of 
the  custom-house  at  Rio  is  estimated  at  one  million  and  a  half  per 
annum.  The  population  of  the  city  is  calculated  at  one  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand ;  two-thirds  of  which  are  slaves. 

The  harbour  of  Rio  Janeiro  is  perhaps  the  finest  in  the  world  for 
beauty,  capacity,  and  safety  ;  and  were  the  heat  less  oppressive  than 
it  is,  the  surrounding  country  would  be  a  perfect  paradise.  As  before 
stated,  it  is  formed  by  a  narrow  opening  in  the  ledge  of  rocks  which 
line  this  part  of  the  coast  like  a  granite  palisado,  or  wall.  Notwith- 
standing the  entrance  is  so  narrow,  the  basin  within  this  little  strait 
increases  to  the  width  of  three  or  four  leagues,  speckled  with  small 
islands  clothed  in  perpetual  green ;  on  some  of  which  are  deligtful 
little  hamlets,  while  others  contain  elegant  countr\'-seats,  belonging  to 

C  2 


9f  SURROUNDING  COUNTRY.       •  [IS*Z2, 

the  nobility  and  gentry  of  St.  Sebastian's.  On  both  sides,  the  shores 
of  this  romantic  gulf  are  lined,  at  the  water's  edge,  with  neat  cottages 
occupied  by  lishermen ;  back  of  wliich,  on  the  green  liills,  sloping 
o-radually  towards  the  water,  are  villas  and  farm-houses,  churches  and 
monasteries,  all  painted  white,  showing  in  beautiful  relief  from  the  ver- 
dant background. 

When  the  mariner  has  fairly  entered  this  delightful  recess  from  Nep- 
tune's turbulent  realm,  he  is  iiumediately  struck  with  one  of  the  most 
magnificent  spectacles  in  the  whole  compass  of  nature  ;  a  bay  one  hun- 
dred miles  in  circumference,  surrounded  by  a  vast  amphitheatre  of 
mountains,  which  rise  in  every  varied  form  conceivable,  and  are  cov-, 
ered  with  eternal  verdure.  Vessels  of  all  dimensions  may  enter,  and 
repose  with  perfect  security  anywhere  below  the  island  on  which  the 
Enghsh  hospital  is  situated.  Above  this  the  water  becomes  gradually 
more  shallow ;  so  that  in  many  places  there  is  not  sufficient  depth  for 
vessels  of  more  than  twenty  tons  burthen.  Even  here,  however,  a 
great  deal  of  business  is  done  by  means  of  large  boats. 

The  district  of  Bragfanza,  Iving  on  the  north-east  side  of  the  har- 
bour,  forms  also  an  interesting  feature  in  the  picturesque  panorama  I 
am  attempting  to  describe.  It  comprises  a  small  town  of  the  same 
name,  and  many  villages  and  hamlets  along  the  shores  of  the  basin. 
Here  is  an  estate  of  considerable  extent,  which^was  presented  to  Sir 
Sidney  Smith  by  the  late  King  of  Portugal,  in  compliment  for  his  ser- 
vices to  the  royal  family  and  court. 

The  country  for  a  great  distance  around  is  peculiarly  beautiful ;  the 
mountains  being  high  and  woody,  and  the  valleys  perfect  gardens. 
The  most  delicious  fruits  are  found  here  in  the  greatest  abundance, 
particularly  oranges.  One  tree  often  exhibits  at  the  same  time  the 
blossom,  the  fruit  just  formed,  and  the  same  in  all  its  various  stages  of 
advancement  to  full  and  perfect  ripeness.  The  quantity  of  this  fruit  in 
the  orange-market  is  truly  astonishing.  The  pine-apple  is  also  here  in 
great  perfection.  In  tlie  neighbourhood  are  several  botanic  gardens, 
belonging  principally  to  merchants  and  private  individuals,  and  con- 
taining many  rare  and  valuable  plants  not  to  be  met  with  in  this  country. 
Attempts  have  been  made  to  introduce  the  tea-plant,  but  without 
success. 

All  the  agricultural  and  other  labours  are  performed  exclusively  by 
slaves — wretched  sufterers  in  this  Eden  of  the  south.  Indeed  it  is 
almost  impossible  for  a  reflecting  mind  to  view  the  city  and  surround- 
ing country  without  being  forcibly  struck  with  the  contrast  which  must 
necessarily  present  itself.  On  the  one  hand,  he  may  contemplate  an 
imperial  court,  unrivalled  in  luxury ;  on  the  other,  slavery  in  its  most 
horrid  and  appalling  forms  of  cruelty  and  sufiermg !  Nobility  and 
gentry  dozing  away  their  listless  lives  in  indolent  supineness  ;  slaves 
bowed  to  the  earth  by  excessive  labour  beneath  a  tropical  sun ! 

The  general  character  of  the  inhabitants  of  Rio  Janeiro,  though  far 
more  refined  than  that  of  the  northern  provinces  of  Brazil,  seldom 
rises  to  an  elevated  degree  on  the  scale  of  moral  improvement.  For- 
eigners have  not  hesitated  to  brand  them  with  the  stigma  of  craft  and 
perfidy ;  and  the  corroborating  testimony  of  many  journalists  is  un- 


Sept.]  DEPARTURE  FROM  RIO  JANEIRO.  3T 

doubtedly  entitled  to  some  credit.  So  far  as  my  own  observatioa  ex-» 
tends,  their  peculiar  churacterisiics  appear  to  be  superstition,  indolence, 
filthiness,  and  an  irrepressible  propensity  for  overreaching  others  in, 
commercial  transactions.  I  M'ish  to  be  understood  as  expressing  my* 
self  in  general  terms  ;  there  are,  of  course,  some  bright  and  honour-- 
able  exceptions  ;  but  tliese  are  by  no  means  coniined  to  the  higher 
classes.  The  extent  to  which  bribery  is  carried  on  in  this  piace  by 
the  officers  of  government,  especially  in  the  custom-house,  is  almost 
incredible.  It  is  in  fact  difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  bring  any  busi- 
ness with  government  to  a  consummation,  without  a  frequent  applica^ 
tion  of  the  golden  spur,  alias  an  exorbitant  fee — m  plain  English,  a 
bribe.  Their  cupidity  seems  to  laiow  no  bounds,  but  eternally  cries, 
"Give!    give!" 

In  Rio  Janeiro  ignorance  of  every  thing  but  trade  prevails  to  a 
melancholy  degree,  literature  and  science  being  almost  totally  unknown 
among  the  people,  who  are  at  least  a  century  behind  the  age  they  live  in. 
Nothing  but  an  arbitrary  govermnent  can  restrain  them  from  cutting 
each  other's  throats.  Several  generations  must  pass  over  the  stage 
before  the  great  mass  of  Brazilians  will  be  capable  of  appreciating  and 
enjoying  liberal  mstitutions.  Those  who  know  how  to  read  are  too 
indolent  for  the  task ;  while  others  are  too  lazy  to  leani.  The  mag- 
nificence and  luxury  of  the  wealthy  and  titled  classes  form  a  curious 
contrast  with  their  habitual  want  of  neatness  and  cleanliness.  This  is 
manifested  in  their  skin,  in  their  apparel,  in  the  furniture  of  their 
houses,  and  in  their  cookery,  which  could  not  fail  to  disgust  a  citizea 
of  the  Unitetl  States.  Their  persons  are  seldom  if  ever  free  from  a 
species  of  vermin  which  among  us  is  considered  disgraceful ;  and 
that  cutaneous  disease  which  is  the  necessary  concomitant  of  filth  and 
unwholesome  food  is  common  to  all 


CHAPTER  11. 


Departure  from  Rio  Janeiro  to  survey  the  Coast  of  Patagonia — Cape  Corrientes 
— White  Bay — Rio  Colorado — Rio  Negro  :  Character  and  Manners  of  the  In- 
habitants, with  Directions  for  entering  the  Harbour — Patagonia — Marvellous 
Stories — St.  Matias's  Bay — New  Bay — Shooting  Bullocks  and  other  Game — 
St.  George's  Bay — Apologj-  to  the  Reader — Cape  Blanco — Port  Desire,  with 
Sailing  Directions — Port  St.  JuUan  and  Santa  Cruz,  with  Instructions  for  ap- 
proaching and  entering — A  Sabbath-day's  Adventure — Description  of  the  Na- 
tives, their  Size,  Dress,  Mode  of  laving.  Origin,  «&c. — Survey  suspended — 
Arrival  at  the  Falkland  Islands — News  of  the  Henry. 

AVe  took  our  leave  of  Rio  Janeiro  on  Saturday  morning,  the  7th  day 
of  September,  with  a  fine  land  breeze  and  pleasant  weather.  In  look- 
ing back  upon  the  beautiful  scenery  now  rapidly  receding  behmd  us, 
one  could  not  help  regretting  that  the  moral  did  not  better  correspond 
with  the  physical  aspect  of  this  charming  country.  Turrets  and 
ik)mes,  castellated  towers  and  gotliic  spires,  churches,  convents,  and 


38  CAPE  CORRIENTES.  [1823. 

villas,  with  a  mazy  forest  of  masts,  surmounted  by  the  flags  of  almost 
every  nation,  were  all  fast  fading  in  the  distance  ;  and  to  the  din,  noise, 
and  bustle  of  a  crowded  city  had  succeeded  a  calm  more  congenial. 
to  a  contemplative  mind. 

After  leaving  behind  us  the  leaning  cone,  which  so  forcibly  reminds 
one  of  the  celebrated  falling  lower  of  Pisa,  and  obtained  a  good 
ofling,  we  shaped  our  course  to  the  south-west,  and  crossed  the  tropic 
of  Capricorn,  in  long.  43°  6'  20^'  W.  Had  not  the  season  been  rapidly 
advancing  which  ought  to  find  us  in  the  high  latitudes,  so  that  every  hour 
was  precious,  I  would  have  remained  another  day  at  8t.  Sebastian's,  to 
"witness  the  celebration  of  a  high  religious  festival  in  honour  of  the 
"nativity  of  the  Blessed  Virgin;"  an  imp>ortant  day  among  the  Catho- 
lics, who  celebrate  it  with  great  pomp  in  all  countries. 

Our  next  object  being  to  survey  the  coast  of  Patagonia,  from  Cape 
Corrientes  to  Cape  Virgins,  on  the  Magellan  Straits,  we  steered  for 
the  first-named  cape,  in  as  direct  a  course  as  variable  winds  would 
permit.  In  this  passage  we  encountered  many  heavy  falls  of  rain,  at 
which  times  we  had  the  wind  from  the  north  or  north-east. 

September  I7th. — On  Tuesday,  the  17th,  at  seven  A.  M.,  the  mo- 
notony of  a  ten-days'  passage  without  an  incident  was  agreeably  in- 
terrupted by  the  cry  of  "  Land,  ho  !"  from  the  mast-head.  "  Land, 
ho !  off  the  starboard  bow !"  This  proved  to  be  Cape  Corrientes, 
bearing  W.  by  S.,  distant  three  leagues.  At  eleven  A.  M.  we  were 
close  in  with  it,  about  one  mile  off-shore,  wind  west,  and  fair  weather ; 
and  at  twelve  M.  we  ascertained  its  latitude  to  be  37°  57'  S.,  long. 
57°  36'  45"  W.  from  Greenwich.  Variation  by  azimuth  1G<»  45' 
easterly. 

In  tracing  the  coast  of  the  Pampas,  called  by  the  Spaniards  the 
Devil's  Country,  from  Cape  Corrientes  to  the  west,  for  such  is  the  di- 
rection of  the  coast  along  here,  the  land  appears  very  low,  with 
scarcely  any  elevated  point  to  relieve  the  monotony  of  its  appearance. 
Multitudes  of  wild  cattle  were  grazing  on  the  wide-spreading  plains  or 
meadows,  which  extended  to  the  very  beach,  covered  with  grass  and 
clover,  and  intersected  with  numerous  paths  and  little  creeks  or  ditches. 
We  hugged  the  coast  along  for  some  time,  without  meeting  with  any 
thing  worthy  of  remark,  until  we  came  to  an  extensive  inlet,  running 
westerly,  designated  by  the  name  of  White  Bay,  as  yet  but  little 
known  to  navigators,  although  it  is  properly  the  coast-mark  of  Pata- 
gonia's northern  boundary.  It  lies  in  lat.  39°  15'  S.,  long.  61°  50' 
W.,  running  into  the  land  westwardly,  at  a  point  where  the  direction  of 
the  coast  suddenly  changes  to  the  south.  •  Mpunt  Hermosa  rises  close 
by,  a  little  to  the  north-east.  With  the  single  exception  of  this  bay, 
there  is  no  inlet  between  Buenos  Ayres  and  Rio  Colorado  that  will 
admit  a  boat  at  low  water.  This  latter  river  is  in  lat.  39°  49'  S., 
long.  61°  57'  W.  From  White  Bay  the  coast  resumes  its  southerly 
direction. 

September  20th. — On  Friday,  the  20th  day  of  September,  we  were 
close  in  with  the  Bay  of  All  Saints,  in  lat.  40°  30'  S.,  long.  62°  0' 
W.,  but  did  not  stop  to  examine  it,  being  anxious  to  enter  Rio  Negro 
on  the  following  day.     To  the  southward  of  Rio  Colorado,  or  Red 


Sept.]  KIO  NEGRO.  39 

River,  the  coast  is  gemmed  with  islands,  and  abounds  with  shoals,  ex- 
tending one  league  to  the  eastward.  Among  these  islands  and  shoals 
there  are  many  good  and  safe  harbours  for  vessels  under  three  hundred 
tons  burthen. 

September  2\st. — About  twelve  leagues  south  and  west  of  these 
islands  is  Rio  Negro,  in  wliich  we  cast  anchor  on  Saturday  the  21st; 
our  vessel  being  the  first  from  the  United  States  that  ever  entered  this 
river.  Previous  to  this  visit  of  the  AVasp,  Rio  Negro  had  been  of 
very  little  note  ;  but  it  is  now  much  frequented,  especially  by  whalers^ 
who  touch  here  for  refreshments.  We  found  here  bullocks,  sheep, 
hogs,  and  poultry  in  abundance ;  and  in  tlie  autumn  or  winter  (say^ 
from  March  to  June)  any  quantity  of  vegetables  and  many  different 
kinds  of  fruit  may  be  had  at  this  place,  on  a  brief  notice,  and  at  a. 
very  low  rate.  Good  water  can  be  drawn  alongside  at  the  last  of  the 
ebb,  and  wood  in  any  quantity  may  be  cut  by  the  ship's  crew,  close  to 
the  banks  of  the  river ;  notwithstanding  the  reports  of  those  navigators 
on  whose  authority  it  is  recorded  that  "  south  of  Rio  de  la  Plata  there 
is  not  to  be  seen  a  single  tree  or  shrub  lit  for  any  mechanical  pur- 
pose.*' 

The  inhabitants  of  this  place  are  principally  Spaniards,  who  are 
very  friendly  to  strangers,  particularly  to  citizens  of  the  United  States^ 
with  whom  they  are  very  anxious  to  open  a  trade.  The  ladies 
are  generally  handsome  brunettes,  of  elegant  persons  and  accom- 
-plished  manners.  There  is  nothing  that  savours  of  vulgarity,  even  ia 
females  of  the  lowest  classes.  Both  sexes,  when  their  pecuniary  cir- 
cumstances permit  it,  dress  much  in  the  English  and  American  styles 
They  evince  excellent  natural  capacities,  but  have  little  benefited  by 
education,  for  the  want  of  schools  and  liberal  establishments.  In. 
spite  of  every  obstacle,  however,  many  Creoles  may  be  foimd  among 
them  who  have  improved  themselves  astonishingly. 

Since  this  country  has  become  independent  of  Old  Spain,  and  beea 
governed  by  republican  institutions,  the  barbarous  custom  of  the  slave- 
trade  has  been  done  awsty  with,  and  no  more  slaves  are  permitted  tO' 
be  brought  mto  the  country ;  while  all  persons  born  after  the  25th  of 
May,  1818,  are  free.  Under  this  form  of  government,  also,  the  mo* 
nastic  establishments  are  declining,  and  the  tithing  system  is  totally 
abolished. 

The  follow  ing  directions  may  prove  acceptable  to  whalers  and  others 
"^ho  frequent  this  part  of  the  coast : — In  coming  from  the  eastward  toRic^ 
Negro,  the  navigator  should  endeavour  to  make  the  land  in  about  the  par- 
allel of  40°  52'  S.,  and  long.  62^  15'  W.,  when  he  will  first  see  Point 
Raza,  which  will  be  readily  known  by  three  remarkable  hummocks. 
After  approaching  to  within  about  one  league  of  this  point  he  may 
steer  south-west  towards  Rio  Negro,  taking  care  not  to  come  into  less 
than  six  or  eight  fathoms  of  water,  with  a  sandy  bottom.     The  shore 
s  a  continuation  of  low  sandhills,  interspersed  with  heath  and  brush- 
wood, until  you  approach  the  river, — where  the  hillocks  oecome  more 
elevated,  and  are  composed  of  clear  wliite  sand,  lying  in  ridges  or 
undulations,  like  the  waves  of  the  ocean. 

About  four  or  five  miles  south  of  Point  Raza  is  a  singular  hillock 


40  PATAGONIA.  [1822. 

of  brushwood,  having  small  shrubs  towards  the  east  end,  which  from 
the  sea  appears  like  a  drove  of  cattle.  Eight  miles  to  the  south  and 
west  of  this  is  a  remarkable  gap,  about  two  miles  and  a  half  back  of 
^Jie  beach.  As  you  approach  the  entrance  of  Rio  Negro  the  range 
of  white  sandhills  will  terminate,  and  the  mouth  of  the  river,  bearing 
W.S.W.,  appears  high  and  bluff  on  the  eastern  side.  The  western 
point  of  the  river  is  low,  but  rises  gradually  to  the  south  baranca, 
which  is  high  and  bluff,  terminating  in  a  perpendicular  point ;  and  this 
point  is  a  table-land  for  four  or  five  miles  to  the  westward. 

To  enter  the  harbour  of  Kio  Negro  without  a  pilot  the  south-east 
channel  is  to  be  preferred,  and  you  must  keep  along  in  four,  five,  or  six 
fathoms  of  water,  until  you  bring  Point  de  Maine  to  bear  N.W.  Then 
steer  for  the  mouth  of  the  river,  observing  to  keep  Point  Welcome, 
■which  is  a  remarkable  bluff  promontory,  about  ten  yards  open  of  a 
low  point  off  the  pilot's  house.  These  marks  are  distinctly  seen 
■when  PoiiU  de  Maine,  the  eastern  point  of  the  river,  bears  north-west. 
But  beware  of  the  flood  tide,  which  sets  strong  over  the  north  bank  ; 
and  if  your  vessel  draws  more  than  ten  feet  of  water,  you  must  not 
attempt  to  enter  until  three-quarters  flood,  when  you  will  have  from 
two  to  two  and  a  half  fathoms  of  water  between  the  banks,  which  will 
deepen  as  you  approach  Point  de  Maine.  The  breakers  on  the  bank 
are  distinctly  seen,  and  with  a  southerly  wind  it  frequently  breaks  all 
round  the  channel.  Having  passed  through  between  the  north  and 
south  banks,  you  will  find  four,  five,  and  six  fathoms  of  water ;  but 
you  must  be  careful  and  keep  the  eastern  point  on  board  until  you  are 
inside  of  the  point  of  the  Borras ;  by  which  means  you  will  clear  the 
inner  bank,  which  extends  two-thirds  of  its  length  outside  the  har- 
bour's mouth.  In  this  river,  at  the  town,  there  are  about  two  hours 
of  flood  tide,  and  commonly  about  ten  hours  of  ebb  tide,  frequently 
running  at  the  rate  of  five  or  six  miles  an  hour.  But  within  the 
mouth  of  the  river  the  flood  tide  runs  four  hours,  and  the  ebb  tide 
eight  hours,  at  the  rate  of  three  or  three  and  a  half  miles  an  hour. 
It  is  high  water  at  the  bar,  on  the  days  of  ftew  and  full  moon,  at  a 
quarter  past  eleven  ;  and  the  water  rises  there  eleven  feet  on  the 
spring  tides,  and  eight  feet  on  the  neap  tides ;  but  when  the  wind 
blows  strongly  from  the  south-east,  the  tide  rises  from  twelve  to  four- 
teen feet.  There  is  a  regular  tide  along  the  coast,  six  hours  flood, 
and  six  hours  ebb  ;  but  the  flood  tide  inclines  rather  towards  the  shore, 
about  N.E.  by  N.,  at  the  rate  of  two  or  three  miles  an  hour.  Con- 
sequently, in  entering  the  Rio  Negro  particular  attention  must  be  paid 
to  the  currents  and  tides,  which  set  strongly  to  the  north-east  round  the 
Point  de  Maine. 

September  2.3^. — Having  supplied  the  schooner  with  wood,  water, 
and  some  fresh  provisions,  we  were  now  in  readiness  to  continue  the  sur- 
vey of  this  interesting  coast, — the  seaboard  of  a  country  so  little 
known  to  geographers  and  liistorians.  Indeed  there  is  scarcely  another 
region  of  the  western  world  but  what  is  better  known,  and  has  been 
more  accurately  described ;  certainly  none  concerning  which  so  many 
contradictory  statements  and  monstrous  absurdiiifs  have  been  re- 
ported,— fables  more  difficult  to  br-lievc  than  Gulliver's  Travels,  or  the 


Sept.]  ^'EW  BAY.  .     41 

mythology  of  ancient  Greece.  It  is  true  that  we  have  not  heard  of 
Lilliputians,  nor  even  of  a  nation  of  centaurs,  in  Patagonia ;  but  more 
than  one  navigator  has  contended  for  a  race  of  giants,  not  less  than 
ten  feet  in  height !  All  accounts,  however,  agree  in  one  importani 
fact,  viz.  that  the  character,  history,  and  every  thing  relating  to  Pata- 
gonia are  still  involved  in  great  obscurity.  Even  its  northern  boundary- 
has  never  been  accurately  ascertained,  some  extending  it  to  Rio  Colo- 
rado, and  others  limiting  it  to  Rio  Negro,  from  which  we  departed  on 
Monday,  the  23d  of  September.  In  due  time  I  shall  give  the  result 
of  my  own  observations,  merely  staling  here  that  this  country  was 
first  discovered  by  Magellan,  in  1519,  whose  account  of  it  is  generally 
considered  to  be  very  defective  and  erroneous. 

From  Rio  Negro  the  coast  again  changes  its  southerly  direction,  and 
runs  westerly  for  about  thirty  leagues,  when  it  sweeps  round  south- 
easterly in  a  broad  semicircle,  terminating  in  a  peninsula  which  pro- 
jects to  the  north-east,  thus  forming  an  extensive  bay  or  harbour, 
or  rather  gulf,  called  St.  Matias's  Bay.  At  the  western  extremity  of 
this  bay,  somewhat  inland,  rises  Mount  St.  Antonio,  and  on  the  north- 
west there  is  a  port  of  the  same  name.  This  is  a  fine  harbour, 
though  but  little  frequented :  and  the  bay  itself  is  very  convenient  for 
whaling  ships,  particularly  in  the  months  of  September,  October,  No- 
vember, and  December,  when  the  whales  come  in  to  bring  forth  their 
young.  The  south  part  of  this  bay,  as  before  stated,  is  formed  by  a 
peninsula,  called  St.  Joseph's,  within  which,  on  the  north  side,  is  the 
Bay  of  St.  Joseph's,  and  on  the  south  side  New  Bay,  the  neck  of  the 
peninsula  extending  between  them.  On  the  east  side  of  St.  Joseph's 
Bay  is  Port  Valdes,  lat.  42°  32'  S.  I  did  not  become  sufficiently  ac- 
quainted with  St.  Joseph's  Bay  to  furnish  any  information  of  im- 
portance respecting  it.  It  was  probably  in  New  Bay  that  iMagellan 
ibund  such  vast  numbers  of  seal  and  penguins. 

September  25th. — AVe  anchored  in  the  last-named  bay  on  Wed- 
nesday, the  25th,  under  tJae  south  shore,  in  five  fathoms  of  water, 
about  three  miles  within  N}-mph  Point.  At  ten  o'clock.  A.  M.,  we 
landed  on  the  south  side,  where  we  found  gray  foxes,  brown  hares, 
and  mountain  deer,  in  great  numbers.  We  likewise  saw  many  small 
pods  of  hair-seal  on  the  beaches,  and  several  cow-whales  in  the  bay 
of  a  large  size,  and  perfectly  tame. 

September  26th. — On  the  following  day  at  two  P.  M.,  we  landed  on 
the  north  side  of  the  bay,  where  we  saw  on  the  plains  of  the  penin- 
sula about  three  thousand  bullocks,  M'hich  were  very  wild.  After 
shooting  four  of  the  finest  of  these  animals,  we  returned  to  the  vessel 
about  eight,  P.  M. ;  and  in  a  few  minutes  afterward,  the  other  boat 
returned  from  the  south  shore  with  thirty-eight  hares,  eleven  foxes, 
and  four  deer.  We  were  thus  furnished  with  a  good  stock  of  fresh 
meat. 

September  27th. — On  Friday,  the  27th,  at  eight,  A.  M.,  we  got 
under  way  for  the  purjwse  of  examining  the  bay,  which  having  finished, 
we  returned  to  our  former  anchorage.  At  the  head  of  this  bay  we 
found  vast  forests  of  heavy  timber,  some  of  which  would  make  fine 
spars  for  ships  of  any  size ;  being  a  kind  of  bastard  cedar,  vhich  is 


42  ^EW  BAY— PORT  ST.  ELENA.  [1822^ 

very  tough,  and  when  dry  becomes  extremely  light.  We  likewise 
met  with  many  tine  springs  of  fresh  water,  and  saw  numerous  birds 
of  beautiful  plumage.  The  waters  abound  with  scale-iish  of  almost 
every  variety. 

Whale-ships,  having  good  ground  tackling,  may  lie  in  any  part  of 
this  bay  in  perfect  safety,  and  kill  right  whales  in  the  calving  season 
as  fast  as  they  can  try  out  the  oil.  The  best  anchorage  is  on  the  west 
side  of  the  bay,  in  from  live  to  ten  fathoms  water,  about  one  mile  off- 
shore, as  easterly  winds  here  seldom  if  ever  blow  with  sufficient 
violence  to  injure  any  ship  lying  with  an  anchor  ahead. 

This  bay  is  likewise  an  excellent  place  for  ships  to  procure  refresh- 
ments, either  witli  dogs  or  muskets.  I  have  no  doubt  that  two  good 
gunners  or  riflemen  could  shoot  one  hundred  or  one  hundred  and  fifty 
hares  in  a  day ;  and  six  or  eight  Spaniards,  who  are  expert  with  their 
apparatus  for  taking  wild  cattle,  might  make  captives  of  at  least  two 
hundred  fine  fat  bullocks  in  the  same  time.* 

September  2Sth. — On  Saturday,  the  28th,  at  two  o'clock,  A.  M.,  we 
again  got  under  way,  and  prosecuted  our  surveys  towards  the  south.  In 
following  the  course  of  the  shore,  which  now  ran  for  several  miles  in 
a  southerly  direction,  we  passed  several  small  open  bays,  but  found 
no  place  of  shelter  until  we  reached  the  latitude  of  44°  33'  S.,  where 
we  made  Port  St.  Elena.  This  may  be  easily  known  by  the  promon- 
tory and  hill  of  St  Joseph ;  a  little  to  the  southward  of  which  the 
direction  of  the  coast  turns  towards  the  west,  and  here  we  opened  tlie 
port.  Its  entrance  is  about  one  mile  wide,  and  there  is  good  anchorage 
on  the  west  side  of  the  bay,  behind  a  small  peninsula,  where  a  vessel 
may  lie  in  four,  five,  six,  or  seven  fathoms  of  water,  secure  from  all  but 
southerly  winds. 

In  entering  this  port,  you  will  see  the  small  island  of  Florida, 
with  a  few  fur  and  hair-seal  on  its  shores,  lying  at  about  half  a 
mile's  distance  from  the  starboard  shore.  Vessels  may  enter  on 
either  side  of  this  island.  Fresh  water  c^  be  procured  at  the  head 
of  this  harbour,  but  not  of  the  best  quality.  The  tides  rise  here  about 
twenty-five  feet,  and  it  is  full  sea  at  half-past  four  o'clock,  on  full  and 
change  days.  Port  St.  Elena  is  in  lat.  44°  33'  S.,  long.  65°  33'  W. 
Variation  by  azimuth  20°  15'  easterly. 

1  September  30th. — We  left  Port  St.  Elena  on  Monday,  the  30th,  and 
steered  towards  the  south-west,  keeping  the  boats  constantly  along 
shore  while  daylight  lasted.  The  coast  here  bends  in  towards  the 
west,  and  then  sweeps  round  in  a  semicircular  curve  to  the  south-east, 
where  it  projects  out  in  a  point,  called  Cape  Two  Bays ;  thus  forming 
an  extensive  open  bay,  known  by  the  name  of  Camarones  Bay,  near 
the  end  of  which  is  the  small  island  Blanco,  on  which  we  found  a 
few  seal.  Off  Cape  Two  Bays  are  several  small  islands,  the  one 
lying   farthest  off  shore  is  called  Raza   Island,  being  at  a  distance 

'  *  When  I  arrived  at  Salem,  Mass.,  from  the  Pacific,  in  1824, 1  recommended  a  voyage  to  this 
place,  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  a  cargo  of  jerk'd  beef,  hides,  and  tallow.  I  suspect  that  tbe 
reason  the  Salem  merchants  did  not  take  hold  of  this  valuable  suggestion  was  because  they  did 
not  place  the  most  implicit  confidence  in  the  information  I  gave  them.  The  consequence  is,  that 
this  valuable  discovery  still  lies  undisturbed,  and  will  perhaps  remain  so  for  many  years  to  come, 
unless,  indeed,  I  should  fortunately  obtain  the  means  of  making  a  voyage  there  myself.  If  this  be 
effected,  there  will  be  a  jJenty  of  merchants  ready  and  eager  to  embark  in  the  enterpriso     • 


Ocu]  CATE  TWO  BAYS.  43 

of  six  or  seven  miles  from  the  cape.     On  tliis  island  likewise  are  to  be 
found  both  fur  and  hair-seal. 

Cape  Two  Bays,  as  its  name  imports,  is  a  projecting  point  between 
two  bays,  forming  the  south  part  of  Camarone's  Bay,  and  the  north 
part  of  the  great  bay  of  St.  George.  About  the  shores  of  the  last-named 
bay  are  numerous  rocks  and  islands,  containing  seal  of  both  kinds, 
and  behind  some  of  which  vessels  may  anchor  in  safety.  Port  Melo, 
in  lat.  45^  3'  S.,  long.  52°  30'  W.,  is  the  first  safe  harbour  to  be 
foimd  after  entering  St.  George's  Bay  from  the  north.  It  is  fronted  by 
the  Escobar  and  Lagoona  Islands.  Here  ships  of  any  size  may  lie 
iji  perfect  safety,  in  from  seven  to  five  fathoms  of  water,  with  a  sandy 
bottom.  The  entrance  passage  is  between  Escobar  Island  and  Point 
Portugal,  or  the  eastern  point ;  and  at  about  one  mile  within  tliis  point, 
the  water  has  a  depth  of  five  or  six  fatllbms.  The  tide  rises  here 
about  eighteen  feet,  and  it  is  full  sea  at  twenty-two  minutes  past  four 
o'clock,  on  full  and  change  days.  In  this  snug  and  safe  harbour,  at 
the  head  of  the  bay,  vessels  may  fill  fresh  water  of  good  quality,  but 
it  is  difficult  to  obtain  wood. 

'  In  this  port  and  its  vicinity  are  many  ostriches,  gray  and  brown 
foxes,  hares,  deer,  guanacoes,  and  a  few  wild  cattle.  This  port  is  also 
ihe  resort  of  many  different  kinds  of  wild  geese  and  other  fowl.  On 
the  shores  are  found  seal,  both  hair  and  fur ;  together  with  some  sea- 
elephants,  and  penguins  of  different  kinds.  Here  the  latter  lay  their 
eggs  in  such  abundance,  that  in  the  month  of  October  a  ship's  crew 
might  collect  forty  or  fifty  barrels  in  a  few  days. 

Twenty-five  miles  to  the  south-west  of  Melo,  in  lat.  45°  13'  S.,  is 
port  Malespina,  fronted  by  the  Viana  Islands,  or  rocks,  behind  which 
vessels  may  find  shelter  from  every  wind,  the  south-east  excepted.  In 
approaching  this  small  bay,  you  will  see  the  Paps  of  Pineda  to  the 
north,  abreast  of  which  you  may  anchor  in  from  ten  to  six  fathoms  of 
water,  fine  sandy  ground.  There  are  many  other  good  anchoring 
places  between  this  and  Cape  Blanco,  which  require  no  particular 
directions,  as  the  coast  is  bold  and  clear  of  dangers,  witliin  half  a 
mile  of  the  shore.  Easterly  winds  never  blow  here  with  any  degree 
of  violence ;  so  that  whalemen  may  cruise  about  these  shores  in  the 
calving  season  with  the  greatest  safety. 

Before  I  proceed  farther  south,  I  deem  it  expedient  to  make  one 
observation.  I  am  well  aware,  that  to  the  generality  of  readers  this 
coast-surveying  business  and  sailing  directions  must  appear  very  dry, 
dull,  and  uninteresting.  To  such  I  would  say,  in  the  langiiage  of  my  pro- 
fession, "  Courage,  my  hearties,  there's  land  ahead  !*'  This  part  of 
our  cruise  will  soon  be  finished ;  and  admitting  the  possibility  thai 
the  descriptions  and  directions  here  given  may  prove  tiic  means,  under 
Providence,  of  preventing  a  single  nautical  disaster,  I  feel  confident 
that  the  good-natured  reader  will  readily  forgive  their  deficiency  in 
incident  and  interest.  AVerc  I  disposed  to  make  a  romance  of  this 
narrative,  it  would  not  be  a  difticult  matter  to  conjure  up  some  very 
stirring  incidents  and  startling  adventures,  on  the  shores  of  a  region 
"which  is  so  little  known  that  no  one  could  contradict  me.  Magellan 
and  his  companions  have  done  so  before  me,  and  so  have  many  others 


44  PORT  DESIRE.  [1822. 

of  a  much  more  recent  date,  whose  "microscopic  eye"  could  magnify 
a  molehill  to  a  mountain,  a  smart  breeze  to  a  tremendous  tornado,  and 
a  few  floating  icebergs  to  a  permanent  wall  of  transparent  adamant. 
I  simply  relate  facts  witliout  embellishment ;  and  if  I  encounter  a  horde 
of  Patagonians,  I  will  give  as  accurate  an  account  of  their  size  and 
appearance  as  circumstances  ^Yill  permit.  Having  thus  declared  my 
purpose,  once  for  all,  1  beg  the  reader's  indulgence  while  I  proceed. 

October  5t/i. — We  arrived  at  Cape  Blanco,  the  southern  point  of  St. 
George's  Bay,  on  Saturday,  the  5th  day  of  October.  The  latitude 
of  this  cape'  is  47^  13'  S.,  long.  05^  55'  W.  Variation  per  azimuth 
22'^  easterly.  In  approaching  this  cape  it  is  necessary  to  be  cautious, 
as  there  are  many  shoals  off  the  coast  hereabouts,  which  must  be 
carefully  avoided. 

About  eleven  leagues  soirth  of  the  cape  is  Port  Desire,  in  lat.  47^ 
46'  S.,  long.  65^  59'  30"  W.,  forming  the  seaport  of  a  large  river. 
The  mouth  of  the  harbour  is  very  narrow,  and  has  many  rocks  and 
shoals  about  it.  It  continues  to  be  narrow  for  about  two  miles  and  a 
half  from  the  entrance,  when  it  expands  into  a  broad  basin,  sprinkled 
with  a  number  of  small  islands,  one  of  which  is  covered  with  remark- 
ably large  seal.  Near  the  mouth  of  this  port,  on  the  south  side  of  its 
entrance,  is  a  remarkable  rock,  rising  from  the  water  like  a  church-steeple 
of  gothic  order,  and  is  known  by  the  appropriate  appellation  of  Steeple 
Kock.  This  rock  forms  a  conspicuous  landmark  for  mariners  who 
are  approaching  the  harbour,  which  would  otherwise  be  difficult  to 
find.  The  tides  are  very  rapid  about  this  part  of  the  coast,  running  at 
the  rate  of  about  eight  miles  an  hour,  nearly  north  and  south,  and 
rising  twenty-five  feet  at  each  flood.  The  coast  along  here,  from  Cape 
Blanco  to  Cape  de  los  Desvelos,  runs  ahnost  directly  south,  a  distance 
of  about  twenty-five  leagues. 

In  running  for  the  harbour  of  Port  Desire,  it  is  necessary  to  bring 
the  mouth  of  the  river  to  bear  AV.S.W.,  Penguin  Island  S.E.  by  S., 
Steeple  Rock  S.W.  by  W.,  the  northernmost  land  N.N.W.,  and  bring 
two  rocks  to  bear  N.E.  by  N.  These  bearings  will  point  out  the 
extent  of  the  reef  which  runs  off  from  the  northern  point  of  the 
entrance  ;  after  passing  which  you  may  run  as  far  up  the  harbour  as 
you  please  (as  it  is  clear  of  danger),  and  choose  your  ground  for 
anchoring ;  taking  care  not  to  bring-to  in  less  than  seven  fathoms  at 
high  water,  when  the  bottom  will  be  found  to  be  soft. 

There  are  two  springs  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  about  two 
miles  from  the  beach,  or  in  a  line  S.S.E.  from  Steeple  Rock,  from 
v.'hich  water  of  a  good  quality  can  be  obtained  in  abundance.  Os- 
triches and  wild  beasts  of  various  kinds  resort  to  these  springs  to 
allay  their  tliirst.  At  a  short  distance  from  the  coast,  towards  the  in- 
terior, there  are  wild  cattle,  red  and  gray  foxes,  deer,  hares,  and 
nutria  in  abundance.  The  country  abounds  with  guanacoes,  resem- 
bling our  deer,  but  much  larger,  some  of  them  behig  thirteen  hands 
high,  remarkably  swift,  and  very  shy.  On  the  islands  in  the  vicinity 
of  this  port  are  fur  and  hair-seal,  and  sea-elephants.  Penguins, 
moUymois,  and  many  other  oceanic  birds  abound  on  these  islands, 


Oct,]  PORT  ST.  JULIAN— SANTA  CRUZ.  45 

where  they  form  their  rookeries  for  the  purpose  of  laying  their  eggs 
and  hatching  their  young. 

Penguin  Island  lies  about  three  leagues  to  the  south  of  Port  Desire, 
and  forms  the  northern  point  of  Sea-lion's  or  Bear's  Bay,  so  called 
from  the  great  number  of  hair-seal  which  resort  thither.  Off  the  south 
point  of  this  bay,  at  the  distan(;e  of  about  four  miles,  are  the  Eddy- 
stone  Rocks ;  and  close  to  the  land,  at  the  bottom  of  a  little  cove  to 
the  southward,  is  Flat  Island.  Inland,  a  little  to  the  south,  is  to  be 
seen  a  mountain  called  Montevideo. 

From  Cape  de  los  Desvelos  the  coast  takes  a  south-west  direction, 
for  about  eighty  miles,  to  Port  St.  Julian.  Between  them,  however, 
lies  St.  Estevan,  aljout  five  leagues  from  the  cape, — a  rocky  shoal, 
and  dangerous  to  approach  in  the  night. 

October  dtk. — We  came  to  anchor  in  the  port  of  St.  Julian  on 
AVednesday,  the  9th,  at  one  o'clock  P.  M.,  and  found  it  to  be  a  safe 
harbour.  The  entrance  to  this  port  is  in  lat.  49^  8'  S.,  long.  67° 
40'  15"  W.  Variation  per  azimuth  23°  easterly.  It  is  somewhat 
diflicult  to  find  the  entrance  to  this  port,  on  account  of  its  southern  or 
outer  point  projecting  past  the  northern  poiru,  so  as  to  conceal  the 
opening.  It  may  be  known,  however,  by  a  large  white  cliff,  stretch- 
ing along  shore  from  the  south  almost  to  the  mouth  of  the  harbour.  No 
trees  are  to  be  seen,  but  there  are  some  dark  bushes  on  the  sides  of 
the  hills.  The  bar  at  the  entrance  of  this  port  sometimes  shifts  and 
changes  its  position ;  previous  to  attempting  an  entrance,  therefore,  I 
would  recommend  sending  in  a  boat  to  sound.  In  entering  the  har- 
bour the  course  is  about  souih-half-west,  and  the  water  sufficiently  deep 
v^hen  you  are  once  over  the  bar,  on  which  will  be  found,  in  the  chan- 
nel, about  foiu"  fathoms  at  full  sea.  The  tide  rises  here  about  twenty 
feet.  Both  wood  and  water  may  be  obtained  at  this  place,  though 
with  some  difficulty ;  and  a  ship  can  lie  here  in  perfect  safety  from  all 
Avinds.  The  natives  of  the  interior  seldom  visit  this  port  except  for 
the  purpose  of  fishing. 

October  \Oth. — On  Thursday,  the  10th,  we  again  got  underway, 
and  resumed  our  task.  Between  St.  Julian's  and  Santa  Cruz  the 
shore,  which  is  bold  and  free  from  danger,  runs  in  a  south-west  direc- 
tion, and  the  distance  is  about  tliirty  leagues.  The  entrance  to  Santa 
Cruz  harbour  is  in  lat.  50^  12'  S.,  long.  68°  13'  W.  The  land  to  the 
north  of  the  harbour  is  steep  chalk  hills,  and  the  mouth  of  the  river  is 
obstructed  with  a  number  of  rocks,  one  of  which  shows  itself  above 
water,  and  is  called  Sea-lion's  Island.  The  river  penetrates  into  the 
country'  in  a  north-west  direction,  and  widens  as  you  advance.  This 
river  was  first  discovered  in  1520,  by  Don  Juan  Serrano,  captain  of 
the  St.  Jago,  who  accompanied  Magellan  in  his  voyage  round  the 
■world.  The  ship  was  wrecked  in  this  river,  but  the  crew  were 
saved. 

October  \2lh. — On  Saturday,  the  12th,  we  came  to  anchor  in  the  port 
of  Santa  Cruz,  where,  as  usual,  we  made  such  surveys  and  observa- 
tions as  were  deemed  beneficial  to  the  interests  of  nautical  science. 
Ships  touching  at  this  port  may  supply  themselves  with  fish,  wood, 
and  excellent  water.     In  addition  to  this,  two  men  expert  with  the  rifle 


49  NATIVES  OF  PATAGONIA.  [1822. 

could  80on  furnish  the  crew  with  an  abundance  of  fresh  meat,  By 
shooting  beeves,  foxes,  and  hares,  all  of  which  are  found  in  great 
plenty  in  a  valley  of  the  interior,  not  more  than  five  miles  from  our 
anchorage.  Such  sportsmen,  however,  must  be  on  their  guard,  as  the 
natives  frequently  visit  this  extensive  valley  for  the  purpose  of  grazing 
their  horses. 

October  I3M. — On  the  day  following  that  of  our  arrival  at  Santa 
Cruz  I  penetrated  some  miles  into  the  country',  accompanied  by  two 
men  only,  leaving  others  to  guard  the  boat.  It  was  Sunday,  and  I 
wished  for  a  little  relaxation  from  the  duties  to  which  I  had,  for  some 
weeks,  so  assiduously  applied  myself;  we  therefore  strolled  leisurely 
into  the  interior,  until  we  arrived  in  view  of  the  valley  before  men- 
tioned. Here  we  discovered  a  band  of  about  two  hundred  native 
Patagonians,  all  on  horseback,  attending  to  a  drove  of  about  three 
thousand  guanacoes. 

With  such  inadequate  support,  and  being  at  least  eight  miles  from 
my  vessel,  I  thought  it  most  prudent  to  avoid  an  interview  with  this 
formidable  band  of  equestrian  herdsmen,  of  whose  amicable  disposi- 
tion I  had  not  the  means  of  gaining  assurance.  Under  different  cir- 
cumstances, however,  I  think  I  might  have  made  a  lucrative  specula- 
tion, by  purchasing  of  them  the  skins  of  wild  cattle,  foxes,  nutria,  and 
guanacoes.  As  it  was,  acting  on  the  principle  that  "  discretion  is  the 
better  part  of  valour,"  we  concealed  ourselves  in  some  underbrush  ; 
where,  without  being  seen  ourselves,  we  could  observe  the  movements 
and  study  the  appearance  and  costume  of  this  singular  people  at  our 
leisure. 

Their  stature  was  of  the  common  measurement,  saj-  from  five  feet 
ten  inches  to  six  feet ;  a  few  might  have  boasted  three  or  four  more 
inches,  but  their  average  height  was  about  six  feet.  Their  complex- 
ion was  of  a  deep  copper-colour,  similar  to  the  aborigines  of  our  own 
country,  with  long,  straight,  black  hair,  which  did  not  appear  to  have 
any  of  the  properties  of  "  hog's  bristles,'*  as  one  navigator  has  repre- 
sented, but  soft  and  pliable.  They  were  all  well-made,  robust,  and 
athletic  ;  but  I  was  not  near  enough  to  observe  that  remarkable  diminu- 
tiveness  of  hands  and  feet  which  has  been  attributed  to  the  formidable 
giants  of  Patagonia. 

They  were  generally  clothed  in  skins  of  the  guanaco,  or  some 
other  animal,  with  the  flesh  side  out.  These  appeared  to  be  confined 
to  the  body  by  a  narrow  strip  of  the  same  material,  but  by  what  kind 
of  fastening  I  could  not  ascertain.  Some  of  them,  however,  were 
evidently  clad  in  cloth  of  some  kind  or  other ;  whether  of  their  own 
manufacture  or  not,  it  is  difficult  to  conjecture.  The  shape  and  fash- 
ion of  their  cloth  garments,  however,  must  be  peculiar  to  themselves. 
From  the  opportunity  I  had  of  inspecting  them,  I  should  agree  with 
the  description  of  Captain  Wallace, — that  this  apparel  was  a  square 
piece  of  cloth  made  of  the  downy  hair  of  tlie  guanaco,  through  which 
a  hole  was  cut  out  for  the  head,  with  side  slips  for  the  arms,  and  the 
rest,  sustained  by  the  shoulders,  hung  down  in  folds  to  the  knees,  or 
was  confined  to  the  body  with  a  girdle.  Many  of  them  had  a  kind 
of  legging  or  buskin,  made  of  skin,  extending  from  the  top  of  the 


Oct.]  NATIVES  OF  PATAGONIA.  47 

calf  to  the  foot.  Their  horses,  which  displaj^d  a  great  deal  of  spirit,' 
were  not  of  the  largest  size,  but  handsomely  formed,  and  in  excellent^ 
condition.  The  bridles  were  similar  to  our  halters,  made  of  a  thong ' 
•of  skin ;  but  whether  their  bits  and  spurs  were  of  wood,  or  any  other 
material,  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  determine.  Something  like  a 
saddle  formed  a  seat  for  the  rider,  who  managed  his  animal  with 
much  tact  and  dexterity,  and  rode  with  an  ease  and  grace  not  easily 
acquired  by  art. 

Some  voyagers  have  suggested  that  these  Indians  of  Patagonia  are 
descendants  of  the  natives  of  the  Canary  Islands,  who  were  all  a  tall 
people ;  and  it  is  said  that  they  bury  their  dead  on  the  eastern  shores, 
as  looking  to  the  countr)''  of  their  ancestors.  I  have  found  several  of 
these  graves  on  the  Atlantic  coast  of  Patagonia,  covered  with  large 
heaps  of  stones  to  guard  the  bodies  from  the  ravages  of  wild  beasts. 
But  if  this  circumstance  proves  any  thing,  it  is  the  fact  that  all  un- 
civilized people  have  a  superstitious  veneration  or  reverence  for  the 
east.  Bougainville  assigns  them  a  different  origin,  and  suggests  that 
they  might  have  sprung  from  the  Tartars,  as  in  their  roaming  propen- 
sities and  equestrian  habits  they  much  resemble  that  people.  If  reports 
be  true,  they  are  also  like  the  Tartars  in  another  respect — that  of  - 
pillaging  caravans  and  robbing  travellers.  I 

That  their  life  is  pastoral  as  well  as  predatory  I  have  no  doubt ;' 
as  they  are  frequently  seen  in  such  companies  as  I  have  just  de- 
scribed, watching  over  their  flocks  or  herds  of  guanacoes  while  they 
are  grazing,  surrounding  them  on  horseback,  and  arresting  such  as 
seem  disposed  to  desert  the  fold.  Those  not  actually  employed  in 
this  particular  service  are  grazing  their  horses,  or  refreshing  them- 
eelves. 

It  is  highly  probable  that  when  the  grassy  nutriment  becomes  ex- 
hausted in  one  valley  they  remove  to  another ;  like  the  sons  of  Jacob, 
whose  flocks  having  exausted  the  vales  of  Hebron  and  Shechem,  de- 
parted thence,  and  said,  "  Let  us  go  to  Dothan."  In  this  respect  they 
resemble  the  Arabs,  among  whom,  says  the  Rev.  Michael  Russel,  a 
pastoral  and  predatory  life  "  is  accounted  far  more  noble  than  that 
which  leads  to  a  residence  in  towns,  or  even  in  villages.  They  think 
it,  as  Arvieux  remarks,  more  congenial  to  liberty ;  because  the  man 
who  with  his  herds  ranges  the  desert  at  large,  will  be  far  less  likely 
to  submit  to  oppression  than  people  with  houses  and  lands."  In 
another  place  the  same  excellent  writer  observes  that  the  life  of  a 
migratory  shepherd  or  herdsman  "  has  a  very  close  alliance  with  the 
habits  of  a  freebooter ;  antl  the  attentive  reader  of  the  ancient  history 
cf  the  Israelites  will  recollect  many  instances  wherein  the  descendants 
of  Isaac  gave  ample  proof  of  tlieir  relationship  to  the  posterity  of 
Ishmael.  The  character  of  Abimelech  the  son  of  Gideon,  for  ex- 
ample, cannot  be  viewed  in  any  other  light  than  that  of  a  captain  of 
marauders." 

But  whether  the  Patagonians  be  shepherds  or  robbers,  or  both — 
whether  they  be  descended  from  the  ancient  natives  of  the  Canaries, 
the  Tartars  of  Northern  Asia,  the  Arabs  of  its  southern  regions,  or 
the  lost  tribes  of  Israel — or  are  the  natural  production  of  the  region 


p 
48  ARRIVAL  AT  THE  FALKLAND  ISLANDS.  [1821J. 

they  inhabit — one  thing  is  certain,  that  about  two  hundred  of  these 
copper-coloured  gentlemen  kept  three  hungry  (.'hristians  fasting  in  a 
bunch  of  inidcrbrush  for  the  best  part  ol"  a  Sabbath-day.  As  they 
evinced  no  intent ioji  of  changing  their  gromid,  we  were  compelled  to 
hold  ours^  as  the  least  movement  on  our  part  would  at  once  have  ex- 
posed our  persons  to  view  ;  and  that  might  possibly  have  been  attended 
with  a  hazard  which  I  was  not  then  prepared  to  incur.  We  therefore 
thought  proper  to  remain  in  our  place  of  concealment  until  we  could 
leave  it  under  the  cover  of  darkness.  This  we  finally  efiected,  and 
arrived  safe  on  board  the  schooner  at  about  three  o'clo<;k  in  the 
morning. 

October  14///. — Having  enjoyed  the  refreshment  of  food  and  sleep 
after  our  adventure  of  yesterday,  we  prepared  to  leave  Santa  Cruz; 
and  at  eleven  o'clock  A.  M.  were  again  under  way  and  steering  from 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  being  now  within  forty-five  leagues  of  Cape 
Virgin,  the  nortliern  point  of  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  where  our  sur- 
vey was  to  terminate,  imtil  we  liad  paid  a  visit  to  the  Falkland 
Islands,  and  after  that  to  the  Antarctic  Seas. 

At  about  sixty  miles  south  from  Santa  Cruz  is  Point  Varella,  whence 
ihe  shore  runs  S.  by  E.  to  the  river  Gallegos.  This  part  of  the  coast 
is  one  continued  chain  of  rocks  and  reefs,  which  stretch  partly  across 
the  entrance  of  the  river  just  named.  In  steering  along  here  in  the 
night  it  is  necessary  to  give  the  shore  a  good  berth.  The  entrance  of 
the  river  Gallegos  is  in  lat.  54°  41'  S.,  long.  69°  2'  W.  Variation 
per  azimuth  23°  15'  easterly.  From  hence  the  coast  tends  to  E.S.E. 
about  fifty  miles,  to  Cape  Virgin,  the  northern  boundary  of  the  straits, 
as  before  mentioned  ;  and  so  called  by  Magellan  because  he  discovered 
it  on  the  feast  of  St.  Ursula. 

October  I6lh. — Having  thus  thoroughly  examined  the  coast  of  Pata- 
gonia from  Cape  Corrieijtcs  to  Cape  Virgin,  keeping  the  boats  con- 
stantly in-shore,  while  the  schooner  followed  them  at  from  two  to  three 
miles'  distance,  we  prepared,  in  conformity  to  my  instructions,  to  visit 
the  Falkland  Islands.  Accordingly,  at  eleven  o'clock  A.  M.  we  took 
our  departure  from  Cape  Virgin,  and  steered  an  easterly  course,  with 
the  wind  W.  by  N.,  and  fair  weather ;  and  on  Friday,  the  18th,  at 
noon,  we  arrived  in  safety  at  New  Island,  one  of  the  Falkland  group, 
and  cast  anchor  on  its  eastern  side,  in  Shallop  Cove,  in  three  fathoms 
of  water.  Here  we  found  the  second  mate  of  the  schooner  Henry, 
of  New- York,  with  two  of  her  crew,  gathering  eggs.  The  reader 
will  recollect  that  this  vessel  was  commanded  by  my  old  friend  Cap- 
Jain  Johnson,  and  left  New-York  about  the  time  that  we  did.  Captain 
J.  was  now  on  a  six  weeks'  cruise  in  search  of  the  Aurora  Islands, 
but  without  success. 


FALKLAND  ISLANDS.  ^ 


CHAPTER  m. 

The  Falkland  Islanda — History,  Description,  and  Natural  Productions — Pen-* 
guia,  Albatross,  &c. — Description  of  a  .South  Sea  Rookery — Arrival  at  Port 
Louis — Shooting  Bullocks  and  Geese — Departure  from  Port  Louis — A  Search 
for  the  Aurora  Islands — Perilous  Situation  among  Icebergs — Kergulen's  Laud 
— Christmas  Harbour — The  Sea-elephant — Aiitarctic  Sej«,  opea  and  tem- 
perate in  lat.  GP  50'. 

The  Falkland  Islands  form  a  group  or  cluster  in  the  South  Atlantic 
Ocean,  about  eighty  leagues  east  from  Cape  A  irgin,  on  the  Straits  of 
Magellan ;  extending  north  and  south  from  lat.  50"^  58'  to  52^  46'  S.,. 
and  east  and  west  from  long.  57"  32'  to  61^  29'  W.  They  were  first 
seen  in  1592,  by  Captain  Davis,  who  sailed  under  the  command  of 
Sir  Thomas  Cavendisli,  and  two  years  afterward  by  Sir  Richard  Haw- 
kins. They  were  afterward  successively  seen  by  other  navigators, 
such  as  Dampier,  Cowley,  Strong,  <fec.  The  latter  gave  them  their 
present  name,  in  honour  of  Viscount  Falkland. 

There  is  no  appearance  whatever  of  these  islands  having  ever  been, 
inhabited  previous  to  their  discovery  by  Europeans ;  and  the  naviga- 
tors who  first  landed  on  their  shores  found  the  animals  so  totally  un- 
acquainted with  man  that  the  birds  suft'cred  themselves  to  be  taken  by 
the  hand,  and  even  settled  upon  the  heads  of  the  people. 

The  first  attempt  at  settling  these  islands  was  made  by  the  French, 
after  losmg  Canada,  in  1763,  who  selected  them  as  a  place  of  shelter 
and  refreshment  for  vessels  bound  to  the  South  Seas.  For  this  pur- 
pose they  established  a  little  colony  on  the  eastern  island,  at  Berkley 
Sound,  which  they  denominated  the  Bay  of  Acheron.  Two  years 
afterward  the  British  took  possession  of  these  islands,  and  settled  a 
colony  in  Poit  Egmont.  But  neither  attempt  succeeded.  The  French 
ceded  their  settlement  to  the  Spaniards  in  17G7,  and  the  English, 
abandoned  theirs,  as  useless,  in  1774.  The  whole  country  is  now 
claimed  by  the  government  of  Buenos  Ayres,  of  whom  it  might  be 
purchased  on  advantageous  terms. 

it  is  my  opinion  that  something  might  be  made  of  this  countr)''. 
The  soil  is  good,  clear  of  rocks,  and  susceptible  of  easy  tillage  and 
high  cultivation.  Luxuriant  meadows,  or  plains,  in  the  interior,  afford 
excellent  grazing  for  cattle  all  the  year  round.  I  have  killed  wild 
cattle  in  Falkland  Sound  that  produced  from  sixty  to  seventy  pounds  of 
rough  tallow ;  and  the  extensive  grassy  plains  abound  with  some  of 
the  finest  wild  horses  in  the  world.  Though  destitute  of  trees  there 
is  no  want  of  fuel,  the  low  gromids  producing  an  abundance  of  excel- 
lent peat  or  turf,  which  burns  well.  | 

The  climate  is  temperate  and  salubrious,  free  from  the  extreme* 
of  heat  or  cold,  though  subject  to  frequent  rains  and  stormy  winds. 
The  soil  is  everywhere  well  watered  bv  rimaing  streams,  which  are 

D 


f^  I  THE  PENGUIN  AND  ALBATROSS.  [182iJ. 

never  frozen ;  and  the  ice  on  the  lakes  is  seldom  suflicicutly  strong  to 
sustain  the  weight  of  a  man.  There  are  numerous  excellent  and 
commodious  harbours,  and  fresh  water,  of  a  good  quality,  in  any 
quantities  desired.  AVood,  however,  cannot  be  obtained  at  any  of 
ihem,  except  it  be  drift  wood.  Each  of  the  islands  abounds  with  wild 
horses,  cattle,  hogs,  foxes,  rabbits,  geese,  teal,  ducks,  rooks,  nellies, 
albatross,  mollymois,  petrel,  penguins,  and  shags  ;  besides  a  variety 
of  land  birds.  Some  fine  sea-elephants,  together  with  fur  and  hair- 
seal,  are  found  on  the  shores,  and  a  variety  of  scale-fish  may  be  taken 
from  the  waters. 

There  is  a  tall  grass  grows  here,  and  lussacks,  or  flag-grass,  brush- 
wood, and  shrubs,  some  of  which  bear  berries  of  a  pleasant  acid 
flavour ;  also  celery,  cresses,  sorrel,  and  a  plant  which  some  call  the 
tea-plant,  as  it  makes  an  excellent  beverage  of  a  similar  flavour. 
There  is  another  vegetable  called  sappinctte,  or  the  varnish  plant ;  it 
lias  the  appearance  of  a  green  hillock,  rising  about  three  feet  above 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  there  exudes  from  it  a  resinous  sub- 
stance, which  in  flavour  and  odour  resembles  gum-ammoniac. 

The  feathered  tribes  arc  very  numerous  on  tliese  lonely  isles  of  tlie 
southern  hemisphere,  both  in  the  South  Seas  and  in  the  South  Pacific 
Ocean.  Of  penguins  there  are  four  kinds  which  resort  to  the  Falkland 
Islands  ;  viz.  the  king  penguin,  the  macaroni,  the  jackass,  and  the  rook- 
ery. The  first  of  these  is  much  larger  than  a  goose  ;  the  other  three 
are  smaller,  difiering  in  appearance  in  several  particulars.  They  all  walk 
upright,  as  their  legs  project  from  their  bodies  in  the  same  direction 
with  their  tails ;  and  when  fifty  or  more  of  them  are  moving  in  file, 
they  appear  at  a  distance  like  a  company  of  juvenile  soldiers.  They 
carry  their  heads  high,  with  their  wings  drooping  like  two  arms.  As 
the  feathers  on  the  breast  are  delicately  while,  with  a  line  of  black 
running  across  the  crop,  they  have  been  aptly  compared,  when  seen 
at  a  little  distance,  to  a  company  of  children  with  white  aprons  tied 
round  their  waists  with  black  strings.  This  feathered  animal  may  be 
said  to  combine  the  qualities  of  men,  fishes,  and  fowls  :  upright  like 
the  first ;  their  wings  and  feet  acting  the  part  of  fins,  like  the  second  ;- 
and  furnished  with  bills  and  feathers,  like  the  third.  Their  gait  on 
land,  however,  is  very  awkward ;  more  so  than  that  of  a  jack-tar  just 
landed  from  a  long  voyage ;  their  legs  not  being  much  better  adapted 
for  walking  than  their  wings  are  for  flying. 

The  next  most  remarkable  bird  to  be  found  on  these  shores  is  the 
penguin's  intimate  associate  and  most  particular  friend,  the  albatross. 
This  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  formidable  of  the  South  Sea  birds  ; 
being  of  the  gull  kind,  and  taking  its  prey  upon  the  wing.  Like  many 
other  oceanic  birds,  the  albatross  never  comes  on  land  except  for  the 
purpose  of  breeding  ;  when  the  attachment  that  exists  between  it  and 
the  penguin  is  evmced  in  many  "remarkable  instances  ;  indeed  it  seems 
as  firm  as  any  that  can  be  formed  by  the  sincerest  friends.  Their 
nests  are  constructed  with  great  uniformity  near  to  each  other ;  that 
of  the  albatross  being  always  in  the  centre  of  a  little  square,  formed 
by  the  nests  of  four  penguins.     But  more  of  this  in  its  proper  place. 

Another  sea-fowl  peculiar  to   these  islands  is  called  the  upland 


Oct.]  A  SOUTH  SEA  ROOKERY.  5} 

goose,  and  is  about  the  size  of  our  domestic  geese  ;  very  palatabi© 
when  cooked,  being  sweet,  tender,  and  juicy.  Their  plumage  is  rich 
and  glossy ;  that  of  the  gander  a  dazzling  white ;  his  bill  being  short 
and  black,  and  his  feet  yellow.  The  edges  of  the  feathers  which 
cover  his  breast  and  neck  are  black.  The  down  is  nearly  equal  to 
that  of  the  swan,  and  would  make  beautiful  trimming  for  ladies'  dresses. 
But  the  down  of  the  albatross  is  superior  to  any  thing  of  the  kind  that 
I  have  ever  seen ;  though  that  of  the  shag  approaches  the  nearest  to 
it  in  quality.  If  any  method  could  be  invented  to  divest  it  of  that 
disagreeable  fishy  odour  peculiar  to  all  oceanic  birds,  it  would  be  the 
most  valuable  down  ever  brought  to  this  country ;  and  I  believe  that 
their  feathers  might  be  made  equally  as  valuable  as  geese  feathers. 

The  teal  is  likewise  found  here,  and  far  surpassing  in  beauty  those 
of  this  country.  Their  bills  and  feet  are  blue ;  their  M'ings  of  a  golden 
green ;  and  the  plumage  of  their  bodies  more  brilliant  and  shining  than 
that  of  the  pintado.  The  ducks  are  similar  to  those  of  our  own 
country.  There  is  also  a  goose  here,  called  the  lowland  goose,  which 
somewhat  resembles  our  tame  geese.  The  males  are  of  a  variegated 
hue,  a  kind  of  mixture  of  white  and  dark  gray,  chiefly  white.  The 
females  are  mostly  gray,  and  resemble  the  brant  of  the  United  States. 
They  are  not  quite  so  large  as  our  geese,  and  feed  on  shellfish  and 
rock  kelp,  which  gives  their  flesh  a  very  unpleasant  flavour.  i 

Oct.  19. — On  the  day  after  our  arrival  at  New  Island,  all  hands 
"Were  set  to  work,  in  the  discharge  of  their  peculiar  and  various  duties. 
A  part  of  the  crew  were  engaged  in  refitting  the  schooner,  by  repairing 
her  sails,  rigging,  &;c.  Another  part  were  occupied  in  filling  water ; 
and  the  remainder  were  employed  in  gathering  eggs  from  the  rookeries 
on  the  back  side  of  the  island.  As  the  latter  process  is  not  destitute 
of  interest,  I  shall  take  this  opportunity  to  make  the  reader  better 
acquainted  with  a  South  Sea  rookery,  which  is  certainly  a  great  curiosity.  ^^^ 
Indeed  I  know  of  few  peculiarities  in  the  history  of  animated  nature  "^P 
that  are  better  calculated  to  lead  a  reflecting  mind  to  a  serious  con- 
templation of  the  merciful  economy  of  Providence,  in  his  government 
of  the  creatures  to  which  he  has  given  existence,  than  the  one  now 
under  consideration. 

:  By  turning  back  to  the  "  Introductory  Sketch,"  page  xxiv.,  the  reader 
will  find  in  a  note  my  definition  of  the  word  rookeri/,  as  applied  to 
certain  oceanic  animals.  It  is  a  temporary  encampment  of  such  ani- 
mals, for  the  purpose  of  bringing  forth  their  young ;  and  they  unite  in 
immense  numbers,  and  with  great  industry  to  construct  it. 

When  a  sufficient  number  of  penguins,  albatross,  &c.  are  assembled 
on  the  shore,  after  a  deliberate  consultation  on  the  subject,  they  pro- 
ceed to  the  execution  of  the  grand  purpose  for  which  they  left  their 
favourite  element.  In  the  fu'st  place,  they  carefully  select  a  level  piece 
of  ground,  of  suitable  extent,  often  comprising  four  or  five  acres,  and 
as  near  the  water  as  practicable ;  always  preferring  that  which  is  the 
least  encumbered  with  stones,  and  other  hard  substances,  with  which, 
it  would  be  dangerous  to  have  their  eggs  come  in  contact.  As  soon 
as  they  are  satisfied  on  tliis  point,  they  proceed  to  lay  out  the  plan  of 
their  proiected  encampment ;  which  task  they  commence  by  tracing  a 

D2 


5S  •  A  SOUTH  SEA  ROOKERY.  [1822. 

well  defined  parallelogram,  of  sufficient  magnitude  to  accommodate 
the  whole  frateniity,  say  from  one  to  five  acres.  One  side  of  this 
square  runs  parallel  with  the  water's  edge ;  and  is  always  left  open 
for  egress  and  regress ;  the  other  three  sides  are  differently  arranged. 

These  industrious  feathered  laljourers  next  proceed  to  clear  all  the 
gromid  within  the  square  from  obstructions  of  every  kind;  picking 
up  the  stones  in  their  bills,  and  carefully  depositing  them  outside  of 
the  lines  before  mentioned,  until  they  sometimes,  by  this  means,  create 
quite  a  hltlc  w^ll  on  three  sides  of  the  rooker\-.  Within  this  range 
of  stones  and  rubbisli  they  form  a  pathway,  six  or  eight  feet  in  widths 
and  as  smooth  as  any  of  the  paved  or  gravelled  walks  in  the  New- 
York  Park,  or  on  the  Battery.  This  path  is  for  a  general  promenade 
by  day,  and  for  the  sentinels  to  patrol  at  night. 

Havinir  thus  finished  their  little  works  of  defence  on  tlie  three  land- 
sides,  they  next  layout  the  .whole  area  in  little  squares  of  equal  sizes, 
formed  by  narrow  paths  which  cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  and 
which  are  also  made  very  smooth.  At  each  intersection  of  these 
paths  an  albatross  constructs  her  nest,  while  in  the  centre  of  each  little 
square  is  a  penguin's  nest ;  so  that  each  albatross  is  surrounded  by 
four  penguins ;  and  each  penguin  has  an  albatross  for  its  neighbour,  in  four 
directions.  In  this  regular  manner  is  the  whole  area  occupied  by  these 
feathered  sojourners,  of  different  species ;  leaving,  at  convenient  dis- 
tances, accommodations  for  some  other  kinds  of  oceanic  birds,  such  as 
the  shag,  or  greien  cormorant,  and  another  which  the  seamen  call  Nelly. 

Although  the  penguin  and  the  albatross  are  on  sucli  intimate  terms* 
and  appear  to  be  so  affectionately  and  sincerely  attached  to  each  other, 
they  not  only  form  their  nests  in  a  very  different  manner,  but  the  pen- 
guin will  even  rob  her  friend's  nest  whenever  she  has  an  opportunity. 
The  penguin's  nest  is  merely  a  slight  excavation  in  the  earth,  just  deep 
enough  to  prevent  her  single  egg  rolling  from  its  primitive  position ; 
while  the  albatross  throws  up  a  little  mound  of  earth,  grass,  and  shells* 
eight  or  ten  inches  high,  and  about  the  size  of  a  water-bucket,  on  the 
summit  of  which  she  forms  her  nest,  and  thus  looks  down  upon  her 
nearest  neighbours  and  best  friends. 

None  of  the  nests  in  these  rookeries  are  ever  left  unoccupied  for  a 
single  moment,  until  the  eggs  are  hatclied  and  the  young  ones  old 
enough  to  take  care  of  themselves.  The  male  goes  to  sea  in  search 
of  food  until  his  hunger  is  appeased;  he  then  promptly  returns  and 
affectionately  takes  the  place  of  his  mate,  while  she  resorts  to  the 
same  element  for  the  like  purpose.  In  the  interchange  of  these  kind 
offices,  they  so  contrive  it  as  not  to  leave  the  eggs  uncovered  at  all ; 
the  present  incumbent  (say  tlie  female)  making  room  for  the  partner 
of  her  cares  and  pleasures  on  liis  return  from  the  sea,  whUe  he  nestles 
in  by  her  side  until  the  eggs  are  completely  covered  by  his  feathersi 
By  this  precaution  they  prevent  their  eggs  being  stolen  by  the  other 
birds,  which  would  be  the  case  were  they  left  exposed ;  for  the  females 
are  so  ambitious  of  producing  a  large  family  at  once,  that  they  rob  each 
other  whenever  they  have  an  opportunity.  Similar  depredations  are 
also  committed  by  a  bird  called  the  rook,  wliich  is  equally  mischievous 
a&  the  monkey.     The  royal  penguin  is  generally  foremost  in  felonies 


Oct.]  A  SOUTH  ^EA  ROOKERY.    '  53 

of  this  description,  and  never  neglects  an  opportunity  of  robbing  a 
neighbour.  Indeed,  it  often  happens  that  when  the  period  of  incuba- 
tion is  terminated,  the  young  brood  will  consist  of  three  or  four  differ- 
ent kinds  of  birds  in  one  nest.  This  is  strong  circumstantial  evidence 
that  the  parent  bird  is  not  more  honest  than  her  neighbours.  ,^ 

To  stand  at  a  little  distance  and  observe  the  movements  of  the  birds 
in  these  rookeries,  is  not  only  amusing,  but  edifying,  and  even  affect- 
ing. The  spectacle  is  truly  worthy  the  contemplation  of  a  philosophic 
mind.  You  will  see  them  marching  round  the  encampment  in  the 
outside  path,  or  public  promenade,  in  pairs,  or  in  squads  of  four,  six, 
or  eight,  forcibly  reminding  you  of  officers  and  subalterns  on  a  parade 
day.  At  the  same  time,  the  camp,  or  rookery,  is  in  continual  motion; 
some  penguins  passing  through  the  different  paths,  or  alleys,  on  their 
return  from  an  aquatic  excursion,  eager  to  caress  their  mates  after  a 
temporary  absence ;  while  the  latter  are  passing  out,  in  their  turn,  in 
quest  of  refreshment  and  recreation.  At  the  same  time,  the  air  is 
almost  darkened  by  an  immense  number  of  the  albatross  hovering  over 
the  rookery  like  a  dense  cloud,  some  continually  lighting  and  meeting 
iheir  companions,  while  others  are  constantly  rising  and  shaping  their 
course  for  the  sea. 

To  see  these  creatures  of  the  ocean  so  faithfully  discharge  the 
various  duties  assigned  them  by  the  great  Creator ;  to  witness  their 
affectionate  meetings  after  a  short  absence  on  their  natural  element ; 
to  observe  their  numerous  little  acts  of  tenderness  and  courtesy  to  each 
other ; — all  this,  and  much  more  that  might  be  mentioned,  is  truly 
interesting  and  affecting  to  the  contemplative  and  sympathetic  spectator. 
I  have  observed  them  lor  hours  together,  and  could  not  help  thinking 
that  if  there  was  only  as  much  order,  harmony,  and  genuine  affection 
between  wedded  pairs  of  the  human  race,  as  there  is  among  these 
feathered  people,  the  connubial  state  would  then  indeed  be  "  all  that 
we  dream  of  heaven."  A  moral  philosopher  could  not,  perhaps,  be 
more  usefully  employed,  for  a  few  days,  than  in  contemplating  the 
movements  and  operations  of  a  South  Sea  rookery,  and  marking  the 
almost  incredible  order  and  regularity  with  which  every  thmg  is  per- 
formed. Such  a  spectator  could  not  fail  to  confess,  that  so  wonderful 
an  instinct  must  be  "  the  Divinity  which  stirs  within*'  them. 

October  23d. — The  schooner  Henry,  Captain  Johnson,  who  had  been 
vainly  cruising  for  six  weeks  in  search  of  t!ie  Am'ora  Islands,*  returned 
to  New  Island  on  Wednesday,  the  23d.  During  his  absence,  Mr. 
George  Noble,  second  mate  of  the  Hemy,  and  the  two  men  left  witli 
him  at  New  Island,  had  succeeded  in  gathering  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
eggs  to  supply  their  schooner,  and  our  men  had  not  been  inactive  in 
the  same  employment.  These  eggs,  when  packed  in  salt,  will  keep 
good  a  long  while,  and  are  quite  a  luxuiy  to  those  who  have  been  con- 
fined to  salt  provisions  for  any  length  of  time. 

New  Island,  on  the  east  side  of  which  both  vessels  were  now  over- 
hauled and  refitted,  is,  with  the  exception  of  the  Jasons,  the  most 
westerly  of  the  Falkland  group,  lying  in  long.  61°  20'  W.,  while  the 

*  The  history  of  these  imaginanj  islands  will  be  found  on  a  subsequent  page» 


94  THE  FALKLAND  IbLAJSDH.  [1822. 

most  easterly  point  of  them,  called  Cape  St.  Philip's,  is  in  long.  57^^  32': 
The  whole  group  lies  easterly  from  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  at  the 
distance  of  about  three  hundred  and  thirty  miles,  consisting  of  two 
large  islands  of  very  irregular  shape,  and  more  than  seventy  leagues  in 
circumference,  with  a  number  of  small  oncb.  scattered  around  them. 
'  These  two  large  islands  are  separated  by  a  channel  called  Falkland 
Sound,  running  between  them  in  a  south-west  and  north-easterly  direc- 
tion, about  twelve  leagues  in  length,  and  from  one  to  three  in  breadth. 
This  channel  or  sound  has  many  little  islands  in  it,  on  its  south-east 
side,  and  several  others  near  the  opposite  shore.  Of  the  two  prin- 
cipal islands,  or  maloons,  the  most  western  (or  rather  north-western) 
is  called  the  English  Maloon,  and  comprises  many  excellent  ports  on 
every  side  of  it ;  particularly  one,  on  the  north-west,  called  Port  Eg- 
mont,  where  the  English  established  a  colony  in  1764,  which  they 
abandoned  in  1774.  This  harbour  is  well  sheltered  by  several  small 
islands  which  lie  in  front  of  it. 

The  other  large  island  on  the  south-eastern  side  of  Falkland  Sound 
is  called  the  Spanish  Maloon,  or  Soledad,  or  the  Eastern  Falkland. 
It  is  twenty-four  leagues  in  length  from  N.IS.E.  to  S.S.W.,  but  quite 
narrow  in  several  places,  one  of  which  is  reduced  to  an  isthmus.  On 
the  north-east  side  of  the  Spanish  Maloon  is  Berkley  Sound,  or  the 
Puerto  de  la  Soledad  of  the  Spaniards,  where  M.  Bougainville  estab- 
lished his  French  settlement  in  1764,  which  was  afterward  ceded  to 
the  Spaniards.  It  is  also  called  Port  Louis  Bay.  This  harbour  is 
six  miles  wide  at  its  entrance,  and  extends  in  to  the  westward  about 
four  and  a  half  leagues.  Some  rocky  flats  lie  off  the  bay,  but  they 
are  not  dangerous.  When  advanced  half-way  within  the  sound,  you 
will  perceive  some  small  islands,  called  Sea-lion's  Islands,  which  you 
may  pass  on  either  side  without  danger  or  difficulty,  keeping  two 
cables'  length  from  the  shore.  From  the  mouth  of  the  bay  to  the 
anchorage,  the  depth  of  water  lessens  gradually  from  forty  to  four 
fathoms ;  here  you  may  choose  your  own  anchorage,  only  keep  clear 
of  the  kelp  or  rock-w^eed. 

To  the  eastward  and  southward  of  Soledad  are  many  dangers. 
Vessels,  therefore,  that  are  passing  along  this  coast  should  always 
give  the  island  a  good  berth  in  the  night ;  but  in  daylight  they  may 
follow  the  course  of  the  shore  by  keeping  just  outside  the  kelp,  which 
will  serve  them  instead  of  a  branch  pilot,  as  there  are  no  hidden  dan- 
gers among  these  islands  where  there  is  no  kelp  to  be  seen.  There 
is  an  island  lying  off  to  the  south,  about  seven  leagues  from  Soledad, 
called  Beauchesne  Island,  in  lat.  52°  42'  S.,  long.  .58°  44'  15"  W. 
This  island  is  barren,  and  has  deep  water  all  around  it.  On  its  shores 
are  found  fur-seal,  and  many  kinds  of  oceanic  birds  in  the  moulting 
season.  It  was  so  named  by  Mons.  Beauchesne  CJouin,  a  French  navi- 
gator, in  1699. 

To  the  north-west  of  the  Falkland  Islands  are  several  small  islands 
called  the  Jasons,  which  are  frequently  the  first  land  made  in  coming 
from  the  northward.  There  are  many  passages  between  them,  but  so 
lined  with  rocks  and  dangers  as  to  be  unsafe  for  strangers.  The 
north-west  Jason  is  in  lat.  51°  S.,  long.  61°  35'  W. 


Oct.]  CAPTAIX  BARNARD.  55 

in  sailing  for  the  west  part  of  the  Falklands,  a  vessel  should  en- 
deavour to  make  lat.  51"^  36'  S.,  and  long.  61^  50'  W. ;  then,  by  steering- 
due  east,  she  will  make  New  Island  right  ahead.  To  enter  the  harbour 
on  the  eastern  side,  it  is  advisable  to  pass  round  two  small  islands 
iymg  about  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  north  of  New  Island ;  then  haul 
up  to  the  southward,  and  pass  widiin  half  a  mile  of  its  north-east  ex- 
tremity, after  which  you  will  leave  a  small  bay  on  the  starboard 
quarter,  and  then  open  ship  harbour,  within  whicli  you  may  anchor  in 
from  six  to  three  fathoms  of  water,  muddy  ground.  Ships,  however, 
may  lie  in  perfect  safety  in  ten  fathoms  of  water,  with  Peat  Island 
bearing  W.S.W.,  distant  three-fourths  of  a  mile,  clay  bottom.  Cape 
Percival  is  on  the  south  of  New  Island,  and  there  is  a  passage  betweea 
them. 

•  In  entering  Falkland  Sound  from  the  south-west,  there  are  three 
islands  on  the  starboard  side,  one  of  which,  called  Eagle  Island,  has 
been  the  scene  of  a  drama  unparalleled  in  the  annals  of  navigation 
for  ingratitude,  treachery,  and  perfidy.  I  allude  to  the  treatment  re- 
ceived by  Captain  Charles  H.  Barnard,  of  New- York,  from  the  otncers 
and  crew  of  an  English  ship,  whom  he  had  previously  rescued  from 
all  the  horrors  of  shipwreck  on  a  desolate  island.  In  return  for  his 
kind  offices,  they  treacherously  seized  his  vessel  and  made  their 
€scape,  leaving  him  and  a  part  of  his  crew  to  endin-e  all  the  privations 
and  sufierings  from  whicli  he  had  nohly  presevved  tJte?n !  Captain' 
Barnard's  narrative  of  this  horrible  transaction  is  before  the  public,  and 
ought  to  be  in  the  hands  of  every  reader.  For  nearly  two  years  he 
was  compelled  to  drag  out  a  miserable  existence  on  an  uninhabited 
island,  in  as  high  a  south  latitude  as  Kamschatka  is  in  the  north. 
,.  This  unnatural  act  of  perfidy  was  perpetrated  in  the  year  1813, 
some  time  in  the  month  of  April,  while  Captain  Barnard  was  engaged 
in  a  sealing  voyage  at  the  Falkland  Islands,  in  a  brig  from  New-York, 
called  the  Nanina.  On  the  9th  of  February  previous,  the  British  ship 
Isabella,  on  her  passage  from  Port  Jackson,  New  South  Wales,  to 
London,  had  been  wrecked  on  Eagle  Island,  a  place  where  navigators 
seldom  touch.  From  that  time  imtil  they  were  relieved  by  the  noble 
exertions  of  Captain  Barnard,  the  officers,  passengers,  and  crew  of 
the  Isabella  remained  on  this  uninhabited  and  inhospitable  island,  with 
no  prospect  before  them  but  an  uncertain  period  of  precarious  subsist- 
ence, to  terminate  in  a  fearful  death  from  cold  or  famine,  or  both 
combined.  There  were  several  females  among  them  to  share  the 
same  fate. 

t  Captain  B.  had  laid  his  brig  up  in  Barnard's  Harbour,  and  was  in 
search  of  seal  at  Fox  Bay,  opposite  Eagle  Island,  in  a  small  shallop 
built  for  that  purpose,  when  his  attention  was  attracted  by  a  rising 
smoke  on  the  other  side  the  strait.  Suspecting  the  real  cause  of  this 
unusual  appearance,  and  prompted  by  his  characteristic  benevolence 
of  heart,  he  immediately  crossed  Falkland  Sound  in  his  shallop  for  the 
purpose  of  relieving  the  sufferers,  whoever  they  might  prove  to  be. 
His  errand  of  mercy  was  successful ;  and  though  they  proved  to  be 
subjects  of  England,  with  whom  our  country  was  then  at  war,  the 


^ 


4 


56  PORT  LOUIS— SUCCESSFUL  HUNTING.  [1822. 

benevolent  purpose  of  Captain  Barnard  remained  unchanged.  But 
here  I  must  stop,  and  refer  the  reader  to  the  narrative. 
;  October  26tk. — Having,  in  due  time,  fmished  overhauling  our  saiis 
and  rigging,  obtained  a  sufficient  supply  of  fresh  water,  and  taken  on 
board  twenty-eight  barrels  of  albatross'  eggs  packed  in  salt,  we  pro- 
posed leaving  our  present  anchorage.  Accordingly,  on  Saturday,  the 
26th,  at  two  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  got  under  way,  and  steered  for  Port 
Louis,  in  Berkley  Sound,  lat.  51°  31'  S.,  long.  58°  2'  W.,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  obtaining  some  fresh  provisions  of  a  more  substantial  kind,  such 
as  wild  cattle,  geese,  &;c.  We  passed  through  the  Veiy  Gut  and  West- 
point  Harbour,  then  along  Tamer  Pass,  doubled  Cape  Dolphin,  and 
passed  St.  Salvador  Bay  to  Cape  de  Barra,  which  forms  the  uorthern 
side  of  Berkley  Sound. 

•  October  29th. — We  arrived  at  Port  Louis  Harbour,  or  bay,  on  Tues- 
day, the  29th,  and  at  two  o'clock,  P.  M.,  came  to  anchor  in  three  fathoms 
of  water,  near  the  ruins  of  St.  Louis.  It  was  here  the  French  planted 
their  little  colony  in  1764,  as  already  mentioned.  They  called  this 
sound  the  Bay  of  Acheron,  but  whether  with  any  reference  to  the  son 
of  Ceres,  I  have  never  been  informed.  It  may  be  mentioned,  however, 
as  somewhat  coincident,  that  there  is  a  little  strait  at  the  north  side  of 
the  English  Maloon,  which  we  passed  through,  called  Hell's  Backdoor. 
This  French  colony,  I  believe,  never  amounted  to  more  than  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  souls,  and  the  remains  of  about  thirty  of  their  houses  are 
still  standing. 

At  three  o'clock,  P.  M.,  I  sent  the  crew  ashore  in  search  of  wild  cattle, 
poultry,  &c.  At  nine,  they  returned  with  two  fine  bullocks,  and  two 
hundred  and  eighty-seven  geese.  On  the  following  day,  at  three,  A. 
M.,  the  boats  were  again  manned  and  despatched  on  the  same  errand. 
They  returned  at  ten,  P.  M.,  with  three  fat  bullocks,  and  three  hundred 
and  seventeen  geese. 



October  3lst. — The  next  day,  'J'hursday,  being  stormy,  it  was 
not  thought  advisable  to  send  the  crew  on  shore,  but  to  keep  them 
employed  in  dressing  the  game  they  had  already  taken.  On  Fri- 
day morning,  however,  the  storm  havmg  subsided,  they  started  on  an- 
other excursion,  at  three  o'clock,  but  did  not  return  until  tlie  following 
day,  at  five,  P.  M.,  when  they  brought  with  them  three  more  bullocks, 
and  two  hundred  and  thirty-seven  geese. 

'  November  2d. —  Being  now  supplied  with  provisions  and  every  thing- 
necessary  for  a  voyage  of  discovery,  except  fuel,  of  which  we  were 
somewhat  deficient,  preparations  were  made  for  a  cruise  in  search  of 
ihe  Aurora  Islands.  Accordingly,  on  Saturday,  the  2d  of  November, 
at  six,  P.  M.,  we  got  under  way,  and  left  Port  Louis  Bay,  shaping  our 
tourse  towards  the  south  and  east,  with  the  wind  from  the  south-west 
and  fair  weather.  The  Henry  was  to^ail  the  same  evening,  in  search 
of  new  lands  to  the  west. 

I  We  continued  on  our  course,  between  the  south  and  east,  with  fresh 
Tvinds  from  AV.S.W.  to  AV.N.W.,  attended  with  snow  and  hail-squalls,  and 
a  long  regular  sea-swell  running  from  S.W.  by  W.  On  the  6th  we 
crossed  the  spot  which  the  Aurora  Islands  were  supposed  to  occupy, 
"without  meeting  any  indications  of  land.     After  running  to  the  east,  in 


Kov.]  THE  AURORA  ISLANT)S.  57 

the  parallel  of  52°  45'  S.,  as  lar  as  43°  50'  W.,  we  stood  to  the  north, 
to  latitude  52°  30',  when  we  took  the  wind  from  south-east,  and  made 
a  v/est  course,  keeping  in  the  last  parallel,  by  double  altitudes,  every 
opportunity,  both  morning  and  evenmg,  and  meridian  altitudes  of  the 
moon  and  diflerent  planets.  We  continued  making  a  west  course  until 
we  were  in  long.  50°  22'  W.,  wlien  we  steered  to  the  south  until  we 
were  in  latitude  53°  10',  and  ran  dovwi  in  that  parallel  to  the  long,  of 
40°  0'  W.,  keeping  one  man  at  the  masthead  day  and  night.  All  our 
labours,  however,  were  unsuccessful.  These  tantalizing  Auroras  still 
eluded  our  search,  and  were  nowhere  to  be  seen.  AVe  therefore  re- 
luctantly made  up  our  minds  that  no  such  land  existed  in  the  location 
assigned  to  it. 

It  being  more  than  probable  that  some  of  my  readers  have  never 
heard  of  these  celebrated  islands,  as  it  is  quite  problematical  whether 
any  one  has  ever  seen  them,  this  may  be  a  proper  place  to  give  some 
account  of  the  circumstances  which  have  led  so  many  navigators  to 
waste  days  and  weeks  in  search  of  them.  The  commander  of  a  ship 
called  the  Aurora js  said  to  have  given  to  these 


airy  nothings 

A  local  habitation  and  a  nanie. 

This  was  in  the  year  1762.  In  the  publications  of  the  Spanish  "  Royal 
Hydrogi-aphical  Society  of  Madrid,*'  for  1809,  it  is  said  that  these 
islands  were  seen  again  in  1790,  "by  the  ship  Prmcess,  belonging  to 
tlie  Royal  Philippine  Company,  Captain  IManuel  de  Oyarvido;  who 
skowed  us  his  journal  in  Lima,"  say  the  publisliers,  "  and  gave  us 
8ome  information  with  regard  to  their  situation.  In  1794  the  corvette 
Atrevida  went  purposely  to  situate  them ;  having  practised  in  their 
immediate  vicinity,  from  the  twenty-lirst  to  the  twenty-seventli  of 
January,  all  the  necessary  observations,  and  measured  by  chronome- 
ters the  difference  of  longitude  between  these  islands  and  the  port  of 
Soledad,  in  the  Malninas  (or  Falkland  Isles).  The  islands  are  three  ; 
they  are  very  nearly  in  the  same  raeri(han ;  the  centre  one  is  rather 
low,  and  the  other  two  may  be  seen  at  nme  leagues'  distance." 

According  to  the  observations  and  calculations  said  to  have  been 
made  on  board  this  corvette  Atrevida,  the  most  southern  of  these  islands 
is  in  latitude  53°  15'  22"  iS.,  louo.  47°  57'  15"  W. ;  the  most  northern 
in  latitude  52°  37'  24"  S.,  long^  47°  43'  15"  W. ;  and  the  centre  one 
in  latitude  53°  2'  40"  S.,  long.  47°  bo'  15"  W.  These  islands  Avere 
also  seen  in  1769,  by  the  ship  Sau  Miguel ;  in  1774,  by  the  ship  Au- 
rora; in  1779,  by  the  Pearl ;  and  in  1790,  by  the  Dolores.  All  agree 
that  their  mean  latitude  is  about  53°  S. 

in  consequence  of  the  credibihty  of  such  documents,  published  by 
authority  of  the  Spanish  government,  my  worthy  friend  Captain  James 
Weddel,  of  the  English  navy,  made  a  strict  search  for  these  islands  in 
1820,  sailing  for  that  purpose  from  St.  John's,  in  Staten  Land,  on  the 
twenty-seventh  of  January.  In  concluding  the  accomit  of  his  cruise, 
lie  says,  "  Having  thus  diligently  searched  through  the  supposed 
situation  of  the  Auroras,  I  concluded  that  the  discoverers  must  liave 
been  misled  by  appearances  ;  I  therelbre  considered  any  further  cruise 


58  SOUTH  GEORGIA—BOITVETTE'S  ISLAND.  [1822. 

* 
to  be  an  improvident  waste  of  time."  Captain  Johnson  and  myself 
having  each  made  a  similar  search  with  equal  fidelity  and  with  no 
better  success,  were  botli  compelled  to  adopt  the  same  opinion.  The 
reputed  discoverers  must  have  mistaken  three  floating  icebergs  with  earth 
nttached  to  their  sides?,  and  covered  with  snow  on  their  tops,  for  so 
many  islands. 

November  ISth. — Having  thus  wasted  more  than  fifteen  days  in  at- 
tempting to  discover  this /^rra  incognita,  and  being  now  fully  convinced 
that  any  further  search  would  be  equally  fruitless,  we  abandoned  the 
pursuit ;  and  on  Monday,  the  eighteenth  of  November,  steered  for  the 
island  of  South  Georgia,  where  we  safely  arrived  on  Wednesday,  the 
20th,  and  came  to  anchor  in  AVasp's  Harbour,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
island,  at  one  o'clock,?.  M.  At  two,  P.  M., I  sent  the  boats  in  search 
of  seal ;  but  after  an  absence  of  three  days  they  returned  unsuccess- 
ful, on  Sunday,  the  twenty-fourth,  at  ten,  A.  M.,  having  circumnavigated 
the  whole  island  without  discovering  a  single  seal.     « 

South  Georgia  is  an  island  in  the  Southern  Ocean,  bearing  E.  by 
S.  from  the  Falklands,  distant  about  260  leagues.  Nearly  half-way 
between  the  two,  in  a  direct  hne,  is  the  supposed  situation  of  the  Au- 
roras. The  island  of  South  Georgia  was  first  discovered  by  La  Roche, 
in  1675  ;  but  not  explored  until  one  hundred  years  afterward,  when  it 
Avas  attentively  examined  by  the  celebrated  Captain  Cook,  who 
named  it  in  honour  of  the  King  of  England.  It  is  of  an  oblong 
shape,  extending  S.E.  by  E.,  and  N.W.  by  W. ;  thirty-one  leagues  in 
length,  while  its  greatest  breadth  is  nearly  ten  leagues;  its  whole 
circumference  being  about  seventy  leagues.  Wasp's  Harbour,  where 
we  now  lay  at  anchor,  is  in  lat.'54°  58'  S.,  long.  38°  25'  W.  The 
sides  of  this  island  are  deeply  indented  by  bays,  some  of  them  so  deep 
on  opposite  sides  as  almost  to  meet  in  the  centre.  The  mountains  are 
lofty,  and  the  tops  perpetually  covered  with  snow ;  but  in  the  valleys 
there  grows  a  strong-bladed  grass  in  great  plenty. 

Noveinher  2ith. — The  sole  object  of  our  visit  to  this  cheerless  port 
bemg  frustrated  by  the  absence  of  seal,  we  weighed  anchor  on  Sunday, 
the  24th,  and  proceeded  to  sea,  steering  an  eastern  course  for  Bouvette's 
Island,  so  called  from  being  first  seen  by  that  navigator  in  October, 
1808.  It  lies  nearly  due  east  from  South  Georgia,  being  in  lat.  54** 
15'  S.,  long.  6°  11'  E. ;  about  four  hundred  leagues  S.S.W.  from  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  nearly  on  the  meridian  of  Toulon,  in  France. 
We  continued  our  course,  with  variable  winds  and  occasional  heavy 
weather,  attended  with  much  snow  and  hail,  until  Friday,  sixth  of  De- 
cember, when  we  saw  the  island  for  which  we  were  bound,  bearing 
E.S.E.,  distant  one  league.  This  was  at  two,  P.  M.,  and  at  three 
o'clock  the  next  morning  I  sent  the  second  mate  with  a  well-manned 
boat  to  search  for  seal  on  the  shores  of  the  island,  with  orders,  if  he 
found  any,  to  see  if  they  were  tame,  and  to  return  immediately  with 
information. 

December  6th. — At  seven  o'clock,  A.  M.,  the  boat  returned  with  eighty 
fur-seal  skins  of  a  superior  quality ;  and  the  officer  informed  me  that 
the  seal  were  perfectly  tame  ;  so  much  so,  that  they  would  come  up  and 
play  among  the  men  who  were  skinning  their  companions.     At  eight 


Dec]  BOUVETTE'S  ISLAND.  59 

o'clock,  A.  M.,  the  boats  were  manned  and  sent  on  shore  to  finish  taking 
the  jackets  of  those  seal  which  had  been  left  dead  on  the  beach  by  the 
first  party. 

Relying  on  the  correctness  of  my  ofTicer's  report,  I  naturally  con- 
cluded that  there  were  seal  in  sufficient  numbers  on  this  island,  not 
only  to  complete  the  cargo  of  our  present  voyage,  but  also  to  furnish 
cargoes  for  many  others ;  the  island  being  at  least  twenty-five  miles 
in  circumference.  The  island  of  Masafuero,  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  of 
about  the  same  dimensions,  has  been  known  to  produce  upwards  of 
three  millions.  Here  also,  at  Bouvette's  Island,  on  the  western  shore, 
was  fine  anchorage  inside  of  the  immense  number  of  ice-islands  which 
lay  in  that  quarter,  from  one  to  three  miles  off-shore,  ail  of  them 
agi'ound  in  from  ten  to  one  hundred  fathoms  of  water.  Some  of  these 
ice-islands  were  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  lay  so  close  to  each 
other  that  it  was  with  difficulty  we  got  the  vessel  between  them  to  the 
anchorage  alluded  to.  We  finally  succeeded,  however,  and  anchored 
on  the  north-west  side  of  the  island,  in  seventeen  fathoms  of  water, 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore.  In  this  situation  we  lay  entirely 
sheltered,  by  the  ice-islands  on  one  side  and  Bouvette's  on  the  other, 
from  whatever  point  of  the  compass  the  wind  might  blow.  ' 

At  nine,  P.  M.,  the  boats  returned  with  one  hundred  and  twelve  clap- 
match  and  wig-skins  ;  and  on  the  morning  of  the  eighth,  at  three,  A.  Af., 
I  agam  sent  the  boats  on  shore  to  examine  the  island,  and  discover 
some  new  seal-rookeries.  But  to  our  extreme  disappointment  and 
mortification,  after  sailing  completely  round  the  island,  not  another 
spot  could  be  found  on  which  a  seal  could  land ;  the  shores  being 
either  perpendicular  or  covered  by  projecting  cliffs.  t 

\  This  island  is  evidently  of  volcanic  origin ;  even  the  rocks  havmg 
been  melted  by  former  eniptions  into  a  complete  mass  of  lava,  pre- 
senting the  appearance  of  blue  and  green  glass.  There  are  some 
small  spots  of  vegetation  on  the  hill-sides ;  but  the  mountain,  which 
rises  about  three  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  is  covered  with 
pumice-stone — that  spongy,  light,  crumbling  substance,  which  is  gene- 
rally cast  out  from  the  volcanic  entrails  of  burning  mountains.  Who 
can  declare  how  many  ages  have  elapsed  since  the  fires  were  ex- 
tinguished which  once  raged  in  the  bosom  of  this  mountain ! — He 
alone  who  laid  the  foundations  of  the  earth.  The  shores  of  this  island 
abound  with  fish,  and  innumerable  oceanic  birds  frequent  the  rocks 
and  icebergs  in  their  breeding  season.  I  have  no  doubt  that  there  is  some 
other  land  in  the  vicinity  of  this ;  and  I  think  the  most  likely  place  to 
seek  for  it  would  be  to  the  south.  I 

\  December  Sth. — At  seven  o'clock,  P.  M.,  on  Sunday,  the  eighth,  wc 
'  got  under  way,  and  left  this  inhospitable  island ;  steering  to  the  south 
and  east,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  the  south-west,  and  fair  weather, 
which  continued  until  Thursday,  the  twelfth,  when  the  wind  com- 
menced blowing  a  strong  breeze  from  the  north-east,  attended  with  a 
tliick  snow-storm. 

Dece?nber  13///. — On  Friday,  the  13th,  being  in  latitude  60°  11'  S., 
long.  10°  23'  E.,  the  wind  moderated,  and  the  weather  became  clear; 
at  wliich  time  we  found  ourselves  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  field  of  drift- 


CO  SURROUNDED  BY  ICE-ISLANDS.  [1822. 

ing  ice,  from  which  arose,  in  ahnost  every  direction,  elevated  islands, 
or  rather  floating  mountains,  of  the  same  glittering  material.     Our 
situation  now  was  extremely  perilous,  while  tlie  prospect  around  us 
was  at  once  appalling,  sublime,  and  betiutiful.     All  that  we  have  ever 
read  of  fairy  palaces,  and  castles  with  towers  of  crystal,  surmounted 
by  turrets  and  minarets  of  the  whitest  silver,  may  furnish  some  idea 
of  the  scene  of  treacherous  brilliancy  which  now  surrounded  us.     The 
morning  sun  shone^upon  them  obliquely,  and  then-  irregular  sides  re- 
flected its  rays  in  a  variety  of  gay  colours ;  but  we  were  not  so  much 
"^  dazzled  by  their  beauty  as  alarmed  at  their  proximity,  as  large  masses 
of  ice  and  snow  were  frequently  falling  from  tlieir  summits  with  a  tre- 
jnendous  crash  on  the  field-ice  below,  of  magnitude  and  weight  suffi- 
cient to  sink  a  ship  of  the  largest  size,  should  such  a  one  unfortunately 
be  found  in  the  line  of  its  descent.      Happily  for  us,  it  was  nearly 
calm. 

December  I4th. — The  morning  sun  of  Saturday  rose  upon  tlie  same 
.^cene  of  danger  and  sublimity  which  surroimded  us  the  day  before ; 
aiid  which  his  first  -beam  lighted  up  into  its  former  beauty  and  splen- 
dour. This  soon  received  an  additional  charm  from  the  presence  of  a 
vast  number  of  sea  birds  ;  among  which  we  recognised  the  albatross, 
Nelly,  sea-hen,  Port  Egmont  hen,  white  pigeon,  blue  petrel,  ice-birds, 
and  penguins.  Perceiving  the  water  to  be  much  discoloured  in  the 
openings  between  the  ice,  we  tried  for  soundmgs  ;  but  found  no  bottom 
with  one  hundred  and  twenty  fathoms  of  line.  A  great  number  of 
right  whales,  fin-backs,  and  porpoises  shoAved  themselves  in  the  clear 
water  beyond  the  margin  of  the  crystal  field  in  which  we  were  detained, 
and  it  is  needless  to  add  that  we  envied  them  their  situation  and  liberty. 
The  weather  was  still  mild  and  pleasant ;  but  we  knew  not  at  what 
moment  it  might  change  its  aspect.  It  has  been  justly  observed  that 
"  a  combination  of  thick  weather,  a  strong  gale  of  wind,  and  a  tem- 
pestuous sea,  crowded  with  detached  pieces  of  ice,  each  of  which  is 
enveloped  in  a  thick  spray  raised  by  the  dashmg  of  the  weaves,  presents 
one  of  the  most  terrific  navigations  that  can  be  conceived."  Had  a 
gale  of  wind  arisen  in  our  situation,  our  navigation  would  have  been 
still  more  terrific,  owing  to  the  ice-islands  around  us. 
ifc  December  lotJi. — On  the  following  morning,  wliich  was  Sunday,  our 
prospect  of  liberation  was  somewhat  brightened,  as  the  vast  sheets  of 
ice  which  for  two  days  had  evinced  such  a  tendency  to  adhere  together 
as  to  keep  our  vessel  wedged  in  between  them,  began  to  separate  a 
little.*  Takino  advantage  of  this  favourable  cu'cumstance  we  made 
.  every  exertion  to  free  ourselves  from  a  situation  that  was  far  from  be- 
ing enviable.  These  exertions  were  at  length  crowned  witli  success  ; 
so  that  at  four,  P.  M.,  we  found  ourselves  once  more  in  clear  water, 
when  we  could  gaze  back  upon  the  scene  of  danger,  and  congratulate 
oiu'selves  on  the  providential  escape.     The  vessel  had  suffered  but 

*  ■'  A  tendency  to  separation  always  takes  place  in  the  drift  during  a  calm.  It  frequently  happerw 
that  a  ship  is  completely  beset,  and  unable  to  move  in  any  direction  ;  and  next  day,  without  appa- 
rent cause,  the  ice  is  totally  dispersed,  and  an  open  sea  presented  on  everj-  side.  A  sheet  of  ice  a 
few  inchesin  thickness  is  sufficient  to  rendera  ship  immoveable.  If,  under  these  circumstances,  it  is 
too  Rtrone  to  be  broken  by  a  boat,  recourse  is  sometimes  had  lo  the  laborious  operation  of  sawing  il.' 
"-■EtUa.  Eiic.  art.  Ice. 


Jan.]  KERGULEIS'.S  LAND.  61 

little  mjnry,  except  in  her  copper,  which  was  much  damaged  by  the 
sharp  edges  of  tlie  ice,  as  we  crowded  her  through  it. 

As  the  season  was  not  yet  sufficiently  advanced  to  permit  our  pro- 
ceeding farther  south  at  present,  and  it  being  necessary  to  repair  our 
sails  and  rigging  before  we  commenced  oiu*  antarctic  cruise,  I  concluded 
to  steer  for  Kergulen's  Land,  otherwise  called  the  island  of  Desola- 
tion— not  a  veiy  enticing  cognomen,  but  quite  convenient  for  our  pres- 
ent purpose.  It  is  an  island  of  the  Southern  Indian  Ocean,  lying  in 
latitude  48^  41'  S.,  long.  69^  4'  E.  ^ 

As  this  narrative  may  fall  mto  the  hands  of  some  who  are  not  practi- 
cal navigators,  nor  even  proficients  in  the  science  of  geography,  I  think 
it  expedient  to  be  a  little  more  explicit  than  any  of  my  predecessors  have 
been,  in  pointing  out  the  situation  of  some  of  the  most  prominent  and 
frequented  of  the  South  Sea  islands.  For  this  purpose  I  will  take  the 
southern  extremity  of  South  America  as  a  starting  point ;  for  every  one 
who  has  ever  looked  at  a  map  of  the  world  knows  that  this  comment 
extends  farther  to  the  south  than  any  part  of  Asia  or  Africa.  Let  us 
talvc  our  departure,  then,  from  Cape  Virgin,  which  forms  the  northern 
point  of  Magellan's  Strait,  in  latitude  52^  20'  S.,  about  two  hundred 
miles  north  of  Cape  Horn,  and  sail  m  an  easterly  direction  until  we 
count  one  hmidred  and  forty  degrees  of  longitude.  In  doing  this,  we 
need  not  deviate  many  points  from  the  course  proposed,  in  order  to 
pass  near  the  following  islands,  viz.  the  Falklands,  which  we  will 
leave  on  our  left,  in  latitude  52°  23'  S.,  long.  58°  59'  W.  South 
Georgia  we  will  leave  on  our  right,  m  lat.  54°  58'  S.,  long.  38°  25'  W. 
We  shall  also  leave  Sandwich  Land  far  to  the  right,  in  lat.  58°  30'  S.,. 
long.  27°  30'  W.  We  shall  then  cross  the  meridian  of  Greenwich,  and 
pass  Bouvette's  Island,  lying  in  lat.  54°  15'  S.,  long.  6°  1 1'  E.  Marion's 
Island,  with  its  neighbour  Prince  Edward's,  will  be  left  on  our  lai-board 
quarter,  in  lat.  46°  53'  S.,  long.  37°  46'  E. ;  as  will  also  Possession- 
Island,  and  a  cluster  near  it  called  Crozet's  Islands,  in  latitude  42°  59' 
S.,  long.  48°  0'  E.  A  few  hours'  sail  will  then  bring  us  to  Kergu- 
len's Land,  or  Desolation  Island,  in  the  Southern  Indian  Ocean,  hear- 
ing south-east  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  distant  about  eight  hun- 
dred leagues. 

December  25th. — Our  passage  to  this  island  was  retarded  by  con- 
trary winds,  which  often  increased  to  moderate  gales,  attended  with 
occasional  hail-squalls  and  heavy  rains.  The  effects  of  such  weather 
could  easily  be  traced  in  the  wear  and  tear  of  our  sails  and  rigging. 
On  Wednesday  the  25th,  wliich  was  Christmas-day,  we  were  ia  lat. 
50°  30'  S.,  long.  50°  41'  E. 

December  3lst. — We  arrived  at  Kergulen's  Land,  or  Desolation 
Island,  on  Tuesday,  the  31st  of  December;  and  at  9  P.  M.  came  to 
anchor  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  in  Christmas  Harbour,  where  we  pro- 
posed to  pass  the  remauider  of  the  Christmas  holydays,  wliich,  in  the 
southern  hemisphere,  occur  at  midsummer. 

January  Xsty  1823. — At  4  A.  M.  I  took  the  boats,  with  the  second 
officer,  and  went  m  search  of  seal,  leaving  the  first  officer  and  three 
men  to  take  care  of  the  vessel  and  repair  her  sails  and  rigging,  which 
were  very  much  out  of  order  from  the  almost  continual  gales,  of  wind 


62  DESOLATION  ISLAND—CHRISTMAS  HARBOUR.-   jrl823, 

we  had  experienced  since  our  departure  from  the  Falkland  Islands  on 
the  2d  oi'  November. 

In  our  search  for  seal  we  were  occupied  more  than  a  week,  rowing 
and  sailing  round  tlie  island,  and  examining  every  beach ;  but  our 
laboiu's  were  not  crowned  with  any  great  success.  AVe  did  not  see  in 
our  whole  survey  more  than  three  thousand  fur-seal,  of  which  we  took 
two  hundred.  On  the  west  side,  however,  we  saw  about  four  thou- 
sand sea-elephants,  and  about  fifteen  hundred  on  tlie  east  side.  On  the 
former  side  we  found  many  excellent  harbours.  AVe  returned  to  the 
vessel  on  Friday,  the  10th. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


Desolation  IslantI,  or  Korgulen's  Land — Christmas  Harbour — Natural  Produc- 
tions— Oceanic  Animals — Departure  from  the  Island,  towards  the  South  Pole — 
Cross  the  Antarctic  Circle — Procure  fresh  Water  from  the  Ice — Steer  for  Sand- 
■  wich-land — Candlemas  Isles — Southern  Thule — Burning  Volcanoes — Return  to 
the  Antarctic  Seas — Mild  Temperature  of  the  Air  and  Water — No  Field-ice  in 
Lat.  70°  14' — Ice-islands  and  Icebergs  ;  their  Formation — Practicabihty  of 
reaching  the  South  Pole — New  South  Greenland — Statcn  Land. 
I 

Kergulen's  Land,  otherwise  called  Desolation  Island,  was  first 
discovered  in  1772,  byM.  de  Kergulen,  a  French  navigator,  who  mis- 
took it  for  a  southern  continent,  and  so  reported  to  his  government ; 
who  sent  him  back  in  the  following  year  to  give  his  new  discovery  a 
critical  examination,  survey  its  coasts,  &;c.  He  now  discovered  his 
mistake,  and  at  the  same  time  some  small  islands  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
large  one.  Three  years  afterward  Captain  Cook  fell  in  with  the  same 
islands,  but  considered  them  of  little  importance.  It  was  he  wha 
named  the  principal  one  the  "  Island  of  Desolation."  My  own  ob- 
servations, however,  have  led  me  to  conclude,  that  notwithstanding  its 
natural  defects  and  desolate  character,  it  is  still  not  without  its  value. 
As  a  place  of  repose  for  the  weather-beaten  mariner  whose  duty  calls 
him  into  these  remote  seas,  I  know  its  worth  by  experience.  Its  safe 
and  commodious  harbom-s,  with  abundance  of  fresh  water,  are  alone 
siiflicient  to  redeem  its  reputation.  i' 

i  Christmas  Harbour  is  the  first  that  is  met  with  on  the  east  or  north- 
east side  of  the  island  after  passing  Cape  Francois,  which  form«  the 
northern  side  of  this  haven,  at  the  head  of  which  is  Wasp's  Harbour. 
The  latter  is  a  small  basin,  completely  land-locked  within  itself,  into 
which  you  can  carry  four  fathoms  of  water.  Here  you  may  anchor  in 
from  ten  to  three  fathoms,  clay  bottom  ;  and  here  a  ship  might  lie  with 
her  best  bower  ahead  at  all  seasons,  the  year  round,  in  perfect  safety. 
To  the  westwai'd,  at  the  head  of  this  basin,  is  a  small  fresh  water 
river  of  an  excellent  quality,  from  which  a  ship  may  fill  any  quantity, 
and  warp  it  along-side  with  one  hundred  fathoms  of  line.  In  this  cove, 
in  the  month  of  December  (corresponding  to  our  June),  a  ship  may 
be  supplied  with  any  quantity  of  pengu'ms'  eggs  from  rookeries  within 


Jan.]  CHRISTMAS  HARBOUR— SEALS.  ^^ 

half  a  mile  of  her  anchorage.  On  the  islands  at  the  mouth  of  the 
bay  are  rookeries  of  the  albatross,  &c.  There  are  also  to  be  had 
here  some  Port  Egmont  hens,  sea-hens,  cape-pigeons,  blue  petrels, 
ducks,  teal,  and  the  Nelly,  most  of  which  are  palatable,  if  taken  when 
they  are  young. 

Christmas  Harbour  may  be  known  from  any  other  harbour  in  the 
island  by  the  projecting  point  of  Cape  Francois,  which  termmates  in 
a  high  rock,  perforated  quite  through,  so  as  to  form  a  natural  arch,  like 
that  of  a  gateway  or  bridge.  The  outer  harbour  is  only  open  to  east- 
erly winds,  and  is  sheltered  by  a  number  of  islands  about  six  miles 
from  the  anchorage,  which  protect  it  from  any  sea  that  could  injure  a 
ship.  It  is  high  water  here  on  full  and  change  days  at  a  quarter 
past  10  o'clock.  The  entrance  of  the  harbour  is  in  lat.  48*?  40'  S., 
iong.  69^  6'  E. 

Many  of  the  hills  on  this  island,  though  of  moderate  height,  were 
covered  with  snow,  notwithstanding  that  the  season  was  now  midsum- 
3ner,  January,  corresponding  to  our  July.  Yet  still,  in  approaching  the 
harbour,  the  sunny  declivities  of  the  snow-crowned  eminences  present 
jnany  cheering  spots  of  living  verdure.  This  appearance,  however, 
is  a  promise  to  the  eye  soon  to  be  broken  to  the  hope ;  for  it  is  not 
the  grassy  robe  which  nature  wears  in  almost  every  other  section  of  her 
dominions.  The  illusion  is  caused  by  a  small  plant  resembling  saxifrage, 
■which  grows  upon  the  hills  in  large  swelling  tufts,  on  a  kind  of  rotten 
turf..  Near  the  base  of  the  hills,  in  a  boggy  kind  of  soil,  is  another 
plant  plentifully  scattered  about,  which  grows  to  the  height  of  nearly 
two  feet.  It  presents  the  appearance  of  a  small  cabbage  that  is  shoot- 
ing into  seed,  and  has  the  watery  acrid  taste  imputed  to  it  by  Mr.  An- 
derson.* Here  also  still  grows  the  androgynous  plant  mentioned  by 
the  same  ingenious  naturahst  nearly  sixty  years  ago,  whose  remarks 
on  such  subjects  have  already,  and  will  frequently  in  the  course  of 
this  narrative,  supply  my  own  deficiency  in  the  science  of  natural  his- 
tory. The  coarse  grass  near  the  harbour,  the  moss,  the  lichen,  &;c., 
are  all  correctly  described  ;  and  he  tiady  observes  that  '•  there  is  not 
the  appearance  of  a  tree  or  shrub  on  the  whole  island.*' 

Of  animals,  besides  those  before  mentioned,  there  are  a  few  seal  of 
the  fur  and  hair  kinds,  and  numbers  of  sea-elephants.  These  am- 
phibious animals  come  on  shore  hi  the  month  of  November,  to  bring 
forth~and  nurse  tlieir  young.  On  these  occasions  the  females  are  po- 
litely attended  by  their  respective  male  partners,  who  meet  them  near 
the  shore  or  on  rl,  where  they  remain  until  May.  They  often  form 
their  rookeries  one  or  two  hundred  yards  from  the  water.  They  bring 
forth  their  vouno;  and  nurse  them  in  the  same  manner  ae  the  canine 
species  do ;  and  for  two  weeks  after  their  birth  the  young  ones  are  as 
helpless  as  canine  pups  of  the  same  age.  The  art  of  swimming,  it 
appears,  is  not  theirs  by  instinct,  as  they  know  nothing  about  it  until 
taught  by  their  parents.  AVlien  they  arc  three  or  four  weeks  old,  the 
mothers  drag  them  to  the  water  by  the  neck,  and  give  them  their  first 
lesson  in  the  science  of  aquatic  locomotion. 

^»  Captain  Cock's  surg'^cn. 


Q4  OCEANIC  BIRDS— FIELDS  OF  ICE.  [18ii3. 

They  copulate  on  shore,  and  the  fwnale  goes  about  ten  months  with 
young.  Aecorchng  to  the  best  calculation  that  1  can  make,  they  seldom 
produce  more  than  one  pup  at  a  birth,  and  never  more  than  three  ;  and 
the  young  ones  never  come  on  shore  during  the  first  year  of  then*  lives. 
As  to  the  age  this  animal  will  live,-  it  is  diflicult  to  ascertain  with  any 
degree  of  certainty  ;  but  from  my  own  observations.  I  should  fix  the 
period  of  their  greatest  longevity  at  thirty  years. 

The  principal  food  of  the  fur-seal  is  a  fish  called  the  squid,  the 
same  that  the  sperm  whale  feeds  upon.  The  hair-seal  and  the  sca^ 
elephant  feed  upon  various  kinds  of  scale-fish,  and  the  hair-lion  often 
feeds  upon  penguins. 

Of  the  feathered  race  on  this  island  penguins  are  the  most  numerous, 
and  of  these  there  are  four  diflerent  kmds.  The  largest  is  the  royal 
or  king-penguin,  so  called  from  its  size,  beauty  of  plumage,  and  ii-re- 
pressible  pride :  in  these  respects  it  much  resembles  the  peacock. 
The  head  is  of  a  glossy  shining  black,  the  upper  part  of  the  body  of  a 
leaden  gray,  the  under  part  of  the  purest  white,  and  the  feet  in  coloiu: 
correspond  to  the  head.  Two  broad  stripes  of  a  fine  bright  glossy 
yellow  descend  from  the  head  to  the  breast ;  the  bill  is  long,  and  of  a 
rose  colour.  As  they  march  along  with  a  great  deal  of  self-complacency, 
they  will  frequently  look  down  their  glossy  front  and  sides  to  contem- 
plate the  perfection  of  their  exterior  brilliancy,  to  adjust  a  ruffled  feather, 
or  remove  any  speck  which  may  sully  their  spotless  attire. 

The  second  class  of  penguins  is  only  about  half  the  size  of  the 
one  just  described.  The  upper  part  of  the  body  is  of  a  blackish  gray, 
with  a  white  spot  on  the  top  of  the  head  ;  the  bill  and  feet  are  of  a 
yellow  tinge,  the  breast  white.  The  third  sort,  or  bicrested  penguin, 
is  black  upon  the  upper  part  of  the  back  and  throat ;  most  of  the  body, 
neck,  and  head  is  white,  excepting  the  top  of  the  latter,  which  is  orna- 
mented with  a  fine  yellow  arch,  which  the  bird  can  erect  at  pleasure  as 
a  double  crest.  < 

The  shags  here  are  of  two  kinds,  one  of  which  resembles  the  cor- 
morant or  water-crane,  the  other  has  a  blackish  back  and  a  white  belly. 
Here  are  also  sea-swallows,  terns,  common  sea-gulls,  Mother  Carey*s 
chickens,  and  Mother  Carey's  geese,  or  the  great  petrel :  this  last- 
named  bird  is  as  large  as  an  albatross,  and  is  carnivorous,  feeding  on 
the  carcasses  of  dead  seals  and  birds.  It  is  sometimes  called  the  os- 
prey-petrel,  or  breakboncs.  It  often  sails  close  to  the  surface  of  the 
water,  with  its  wings  expanded,  yet  without  appearing  to  move  them. 
They  are  very  tame,  and  not  unpalatable  food.  I  have  also  frequently 
shot  and  eaten  the  white  bird  for  wliich  i\Ir.  Anderson  had  no  name, 
and  found  its  flesh  a  very  agreeable  substitute  for  salt  provisions.  It 
is  somewhat  larger  than  a  pigeon,  with  white  feet  and  a  black  bill.  i 
January  Wth. — We  returned  from  our  sealing  excursion  round  the 
Island  of  Desolatio)!  on  Friday,  the  10th  ;  and  on  the  following  day  at  6 
P.  M.  again  got  under  way,  and  took  our  departure  from  Christmas 
Harbour,  steering  towards  the  south  and  east,  wafted  by  a  fine  breeze 
from  W.S.W.  We  continued  this  course,  almost  constantly  attended 
by  light  snow-squalls,  for  ten  days  ;  when,  in  lat.  62°  27'  S.,  long.  94* 
W  E.,  we  fell  in  with  very  extensive  fields  of  ice,  one  of  winch  would 


Feb.]  THE  ANTARCTIC  SEAS.  ^5 

have  measured  at  least  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  east  and  west.  In 
the  vicinity  of  this  crystal  plain  were  an  immense  number  of  ice- 
islands,  some  of  which  were  of  an  extraordhiary  magnitude. 

January  22d. — In  order  to  avoid  a  contact  with  the  enormous  masses 
of  ice  on  our  starboard  bow,  we  were  obliged  to  alter  our  course,  and 
steer  more  to  the  north.  And  we  continued  to  sail  in  this  direction 
until  we  were  in  lat.  58^  42'  S.,  between  which  and  the  parallel  of 
60°  we  continued  to  sail  eastward  until  our  longitude  was  one  hun- 
dred and  seventeen  degrees  east  of  the  meridian  of  Greenwich.  We 
then  again  changed  our  course,  and  steered  to  the  south  until  the  1st 
day  of  February. 

February  \st. — From  the  11th  day  of  January,  when  we  left  the 
Island  of  Desolation,  to  the  31st,  we  had  but  one  day  of  fair  weather; 
but  we  now  took  the  Mind  fresh  from  the  north-east,  with  an  atmosphere 
clear  and  pleasant.  By  an  observation  at  noon  we  were  in  lat.  64° 
52'  S.,  long.  118°  27'  E.  The  wind  soon  freshened  to  an  eleven- 
knot  breeze,  and  we  embraced  this  opportunity  of  making  to  the  west ; 
being,  however,  convinced  that  the  farther  we  went  south  beyond  lat. 
64°  the  less  ice  was  to  be  apprehended,  we  steered  a  little  to  the  south- 
ward until  we  crossed  the  antarctic  circle^  and  were  in  lat.  69°  11'  S., 
long.  48°  15'  E.  In  this  latitude  there  was  no  field-ice^  and  very  few 
ice-islands  in  sight.  AVe  likewise  discovered  that  the  winds  in  this  lati- 
tude blow  three-fourths  of  the  time  from  the  south-east,  or  the  north- 
east, very  light,  and  attended  with  more  or  less  snow,  every  day ;  and 
that  the  westerly  winds  were  accompanied  with  severe  hail-squalls. 

February  23ci — We  continued  steering  to  the  westward  with  every 
necessary  caution  until  4  P.  M.,  when  bemg  in  lat.  69°  42'  S.,  we 
crossed  the  meridian  of  Greenwich,  in  a  fine  clear  day,  and  with  the 
wind  from  S.E.  to  S.S.W.,  from  which  quarter  it  had  blown  for  the 
last  four  days.  We  nov/  steered  for  the  north  and  west  for  Sandwich 
Land,  and  on  the  following  day  saw  many  birds  of  diflerent  kinds,  such 
as  the  albatross,  the  Nelly,  sea-hens,  and  penguins;  besides  a  variety 
of  others  that  are  common  among  the  ice-islands. 

February  24th. — ?^Ionday,  the  24th  of  February  being  calm,  we 
lowered  one  of  our  boats,  and  supplied  the  vessel  v,-ith  fresh  water, 
from  the  floating  ice  around  her.  We  likevrise  tried  the  current,  and 
found  it  setting  due  north,  at  the  rate  of  about  the  eighth  of  a  mile  in 
an  hour,  which  is  equal  to  three  miles  in  twenty-four  hours.  We  had 
tried  the  current  several  times  between  the  meridian  of  Greenwich  and 
one  hundred  and  eighteen  degrees  east ;  but  always  found  it  setting  in 
the  same  direction,  and  with  the  same  velocity.  Our  sounding  gear 
lor  trying  the  current  consisted  of  a  very  large  iron  pot,  of  fifteen  gal- 
ions'  capacity,  and  a  line  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms  in  length. 
Lat,,68°  12'  S.,  long.  4°  17'  W. 

February  25th. — We  continued  our  course  for  Sandwich  Land,  hoping 
to  find  amonjr  those  barren  islands  some  drift-wood,  as  well  as  seals. 
Fuel  we  were  much  in  want  of,  not  wishijig  again  to  cross  the  antarc- 
tic circle  without  a  fresh  supply.  In  this  passage  we  saw  in  the  water 
many  seals,  wigs,  clap-matches,  and  yearlings — about  300  in  all.  We 
also  saw  many  sea-birds,  among  which  were  some  white  pigeons,  not 

E 


66  SANDWICH  LAND.  [1823. 

web-footed,  Port  Egmont  hens,  albatrosses,  and  Nellies,  and  a  num- 
ber of  very  curious  birds,  about  the  size  of  a  pigeon,  with  a  green 
head.  The  back  of  this  bird  was  a  gray  black,  and  the  breast  was 
variegated  with  all  the  colours  of  the  rainbow.  The  tail,  which  M'as 
long  and  bushy,  was  of  a  hue  approaching  to  yellow,  and  resembling 
the  bird  of  paradise. 

February  28t/i. — On  Friday,  the  twenty-eighth,  the  cheering  cry  of 
"  Land,  ho !"  resounded  from  aloft.  This  proved  to  be  the  Candlemas 
Isles,  the  most  northerly  islands  of  Sandwich  Land;  lat.  57^  10'  S., 
long.  26^  59'  W.  These  two  islands  are  of  no  great  extent,  but  one  of 
them  is  of  considerable  height,  both  being  burning  volcanoes  ;  and  the 
most  western  having  burnt  down  nearly  to  a  level  whh  the  sea.  We 
continued  examining  these  islands  towards  the  south,  until  we  arrived  at 
the  Southern  Thule  ;  where,  on  the  north-east  side  of  the  westernmost 
island,  we  found  a  good  harbour.  In  this  group  we  saw  nine  burning 
volcanoes — fire  in  abundance,  but  no  fuel  for  the  Wasp.  Three  of 
these  islands  had  vomited  out  so  much  of  their  entrails,  that  their  sur- 
faces were  nearly  even  with  the  water. 

We  looked  on  these  islands  in  vain  for  wood,  of  which  we  were 
very  much  in  want ;  as  we  had  not  made  a  fire  on  board  the  Wasp  but 
once  a  week,  for  the  last  fourteen  days ;  having  with  that  fire  boiled 
meat  sufhcient  to  serve  the  officers  and  crew  for  seven  days  ;  and  this 
economical  regulation  we  were  obliged  to  adhere  to  until  we  arrived 
at  Staten  Land,  on  the  twenty-fourth  of  March.  All  the  islands  vrhich 
constitute  what  is  called  Sandwich  Land  are  entirely  barren.  Those 
parts  which  have  not  been  consumed  by  internal  fires  are  very  high, 
and  covered  with  perpetual  snow ;  the  rest  is  broken  land.  The 
westernmost  of  the  Southern  Thule  is  in  lat.  59^  35'  10"  S.,  long.  27^^ 
42'  30"  W. 

March  Gth. — After  having  examined  the  islands  of  Sandwich  Land, 
without  discovering  a  single  fur-seal,  and  only  about  four  hundred  sea- 
elephants,  together  with  about  fifty  sea-dogs,  we  again  directed  our 
attention  towards  the  antarctic  seas.  At  five  P.  M.  we  steered  to  the 
south  and  west,  with  the  wind  from  W.N.W.,  attended  with  frequent 
squalls  of  snow  and  hail. 

March  10 th. — We  continued  standing  to  the  south  and  west,  with 
our  starboard  tacks  on  board,  until  INIonday,  the  tenth  of  March  ;  when, 
at  four  A.  M.,  we  found  ourselves  once  more  in  a  very  dangerous  situ- 
ation, being  hemmed  in  on  every  side  by  field-ice.  After  exerting  our- 
selves, how^ever,  for  about  twenty-fom'  hours,  in  a  thick  snow-storm, 
we  made  our  escape  into  an  open  sea,  entirely  free  of  ice.  This 
was  in  lat.  64°  21'  S.,  long.  38°  51'  W.  We  theiitook  the  wind  from 
the  west,  and  stood  to  the  south,  under  double-reefed  sails,  until  Friday 
the  fourteenth,  when  our  latitude  was  70°  14'  S.  long.  40°  3'  W. 
*  March  14th. — The  sea  was  now  entirely  free  of  field-ice,  and  there 
were  not  more  than  a  dozen  ice-islands  in  sight.  At  the  same  time, 
the  temperature  both  of  the  air  and  the  water  was  at  least  thirteen  de- 
grees higher  (more  mild)  than  we  had  ever  found  it  between  the  par- 
allels of  sixty  and  sixty-two  south.  We  were  now  in  lat.  70°  14'  S., 
and  the  temperature  of  the  air  was  forty-seven,  and  that  of  the  water 


March.]  PRACTICABILITY  OF  REACHING  THE  SOUTH  POLE.     67 

forty-four.     In  this  situation  I  found  the  variation  to  be  14*^  27'  easterly, 
per  azimuth. 

I  have  several  times  passed  within  the  antarctic  circle,  on  diflerent 
meridians,  and  have  uniformly  found  the  temperature  both  of  the  air  and 
the  water  to  become  more  and  more  mild  the  farther  I  advanced  beyond 
the  sixty-fifth  degree  of  south  latitude,  and  that  the  variation  decreases 
in  the  same  proportion.  While  north  of  this  latitude,  say  between 
sixty  and  sixty-five  south,  we  frequently  had  great  difficulty  in  finding 
a  passage  for  the  vessel,  between  the  immense  and  almost  innumerable 
ice-islands,  some  of  which  were  from  one  to  two  miles  in  circumference, 
and  more  than  five  hundred  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water !  j 
When  it  is  considered  that  they  have  always  about  three-fifths  of  their 
bulk  under  water,  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  their  enormous  mag- 
nitude. We  have  several  times  come  so  near  them,  when  the  weather 
was  so  thick  and  hazy  that  we  could  not  see  twice  the  length  of  the 
vessel,  that  nothing  prevented  our  striking  but  a  timely  application  of 
the  sweeps  to  bear  us  off.  It  vvas  always  our  endeavour  to  keep  at  a 
respectful  distance ;  for  they  are  sometimes  so  nicely  balanced,  that, 
should  a  very  large  piece  become  detached  from  below^  the  whole  mass 
above  water,  being  thus  rendered  top-heavy,  would  instantly  capsize, 
and  plunge  beneath  the  surface ;  when  wo  to  the  vessel  that  lies  in 
its  way.  Even  at  the  distance  of  one  hundred  yards,  ships  have  been 
lost  by  the  vast  waves  and  whirls  occasioued  by  these  rolling  moun- 
tains. 

.  But  there  is  no  evil,  perhaps,  which  is  not  accompanied  with  some 
redeeming  quality.  The  shelter  which  is  sometimes  afforded  by  these 
dangerous  friends  has  preserved  vessels  from  injury,  if  not  ruin,  during 
a  gale  of  wind ;  especially  as  the  sea  is  never  rough  where  the  ice- 
islands  are  sufficiently  numerous  to  break  the  force  of  the  waves. 

.  I  regret  extremely  that  circumstances  would  not  permit  me  to  pro- 
ceed farther  south,  when  I  was  in  lat.  70^  14'  S.,  on  Friday,  the  14th 
day  of  March,  1823 ;  as  I  should  then  have  been  able,  without  the 
least  doubt,  to  penetrate  as  far  as  the  eighty-fifth  degree  of  south 
latitude.  But  situated  as  I  then  was,  without  fuel,  and  with  not  suffi- 
cient water  to  last  twenty  days, — destitute  of  the  various  nautical  and 
mathematical  instruments  requisite  for  such  an  enterprise,  and  without 
the  aid  of  such  scientific  gentlemen  as  discovery  ships  should  always 
be  supplied  Avith ;  taking  all  these  things  into  consideration,  I  felt  my- 
self compelled  to  abandon,  for  the  present,  the  glorious  attempt  io 
make  a  bold  advance  directly  to  the  south  pole.  The  way  was  open 
before  me,  clear  and  unobstructed  ;  the  temperature  of  the  air  and 
water  mild ;  the  weather  pleasant ;  the  wind  fair.  Under  such  tempting 
auspices,  it  was  "with  painful  reluctance  that  I  relinquished  the  idea, 
and  deferred  the  attempt  for  a  subsequent  voyage.  The  anguish  of 
ray  regret,  however,  was  much  alleviated  by  the  hope  that  on  my  return 
to  the  United  States,  an  appeal  to  the  government  of  my  country  for 
countenance  and  assistance  in  this  (if  successful)  magnificent  en- 
terprise would  not  be  made  in  vain.  To  the  only  free  nation  on  earth 
should  belong  the  glory  of  exploring  a  spot  of  the  globe  which  is  the 
ne  plus  ultra  of  latitude,  where  all  the  degrees  of  longitude  are  merged 

E2 


08  ,  FORMATION  OF  ICEBERGS.  [1823. 

into  a  single  point,  and  wlierc  the  sun  appears  to  revolve  in  a  horizontal 
circle.  But  this  splendid  hope  has  since  been  lost  in  the  gloom  of  dis- 
appointment !  The  vassals  of  some  petty  despot  may  one  day  place 
this  precious  jewel  of  discovery  in  the  diadem  of  their  royal  master. 
AVould  to  heaven  it  might  be  set  among  the  stars  of  our  national 
banner ! 

Had  the  English  navigator  Captain  Wcddell*  been  properly  pre- 
pared with  all  the  necessary  mathematical  and  nautical  apparatus  for 
approaching  the  south  pole,  there  is  no  doubt  that  this  important  dis- 
covery would  have  been  accomplished  by  him  in  the  year  1822,  when 
he  proceeded  one  hundred  and  eighty-five  miles  farther  south  than  any 
other  navigator  had  ever  done  before  him  ;  he  having  reached  the  lat- 
itude of  74°  15'  S. ;  while  Captain  Cook's  most  southern  latitude  was 
only  71°  10'  S.,  and  my  own  70°  14'  S.  Nothing  but  a  deficiency  of 
articles  which  are  indispensably  necessary  for  the  purpose  prevented 
Captain  Weddell's  accomplishing  this  much-desired  object;  when  the 
people  of  our  enlightened  age  would  have  had  laid  open  to  them  the 
mysteries  of  the  south  pole — nty^steries  which  have  been  concealed  from 
man  since  the  Almighty  first  "  laid  the  foundations  of  the  earth." 

I  have  no  doubt  that  the  British  government,  ever  foremost  to  en- 
courage genius  and  reward  merit,  w^ll  yet  give  my  much  esteemed 
and  worthy  friend  Captain  Weddell  another  opportunity  of  distin- 
'guishing  himself  with  the-command  of  an  expedition  towards  the  south 
Ipole. 

To  return  from  tliis  digression. — The  ice  which  sometimes  obstructs 
the  navigation  of  the  antarctic  seas  appears  to  be  of  two  kinds ;  the 
"one  being  from  fresh,  and  the  other  from  salt  water.  The  hard,  solid, 
'and  perfect  icebergs  are  the  gradual  productions  of  years, — perhaps 
'of  centuries.  In  these  inhospitable  regions,  wherever  the  snow  finds 
,a  resting-place  in  winter,  there  it  must  accumulate  until  the  ensuing 
■summer,  when  it  will  begin  to  dissolve  beneath  the  influence  of  the  sun's 
direct  rays,  which  are  shed  upon  every  side  of  it  in  the  course  of 
■twenty-four  hours.  Streams  and  rivulets  are  the  necessary  conse- 
Iquence,  which  collect  along  the  indented  shores,  and  in  the  deep  bays. 
j-There  this  snow-water  soon  freezes,  and  every  successive  year  supplies 
.an  additional  investing  crust,  until,  after  the  lapse  of  perhaps  several  cen- 
jturies,  the  icy  mass  rises  at  last  to  the  size  of  a  mountain,  and  becomes 
jan  iceberg.  The  melting  of  the  snow  which  is  afterward  deposited 
,on  such  immense  blocks,  likewise  contributes  to  their  growth ;  and,  by 
iiilling  up  the  crevices,  it  renders  the  whole  berg  compact  and  uniform. 

At  the  same  time,  the  principle  of  destruction  has  already  com- 
menced its  operation.  The  constant  agitation  of  the  sea  gradually 
ivears  and  undermines  the  base  of  the  icy  eminence ;  till  at  length,  by 
the  action  of  its  own  accumulated  weight,  having  grown  to  near  one 
thousand  feet  in  height,  it  is  torn  from  its  frozen  chains,  and  precipitated 
into  the  ocean.     When  thus  launched  afloat,  it  is  like  an  island  in  the 

•  "■  Captain  James  Weddell,  of  the  British  n3^'^•,  whom  I  have  before  mentioned  in  the  previous 
chapter,  as  seeking  for  the  Aurora  Islands,  in  1S22  :  a  most  excellent  officer,  and  a  highly  worthy 
jnan  :  justly  extolled  as  an  active,  correct,  and  enterprising  navigator.  Being  familiar  with  danger 
in  its  most  appalling  form,  every  emergency  finds  him  cool,  steady,  and  undaunted.  He  is,  in  short, 
at  once  an  honour  to  his  country  and  to  human  nature.    I  sjieak  with  conlidence,  for  I  know  him. 


March.]  NEW  SOUTH  GREENLAND.  69 

sea ;  till  driven  to  the  northward  by  the  wind  and  currents,  a  milder 
temperature  of  air  and  M^ater  gradually  and  insensibly  melts  it  into 
its  primitive  element,  either  in  the  Paciiic,  South  Atlantic,  or  Southern 
Indian  Ocean. 

March  15th. — After  relinquishing  for  this  season  the  idea  of  an 
attempt  to  reach  the  south  pole,  we  tacked  about,  and  stood  to  the  north 
and  west.  On  Saturday,  March  15lh,  at  2  P.  M.,  land  was  seen  from 
the  masthead,  bearing  west,  distant  three  leagues.  At  this  time  the 
wind  had  hauled  to  the  south-west,  and  at  half-past  4  P.  M.  we  w^ere 
close  in  with  the  eastern  coast  of  the  body  of  land  to  which  Captaiii 
Johnson  had  given  the  name  of  New  South  Greenland.  At  six  P.  M. 
the  wind  hauled  off  the  land,  when  we  tacked  and  stood  to  the  south, 
along  the  coast,  which  runs  about  south-by-east ;  our  boats  being  out, 
and  searchbig  the  shore  for  seals  until  9  P.  M.,  when  they  returned  to 
the  schooner. 

March  IQth. — On  the  following  morning,  Sunday,  the  16th,  the  boats 
continued  their  search,  the  vessel  following  or  keeping  abreast  of  them, 
about  two  miles  from  the  land,  until  the  next  day,  at  4  P.  M.,  when 
we  were  in  lat.  67^  52'  S.  long.  48^  11'  W. ;  at  which  time  we  took  a 
fresh  breeze  from  the  south,  attended  with  light  snow-squalls.  Varia- 
tion per  azimuth  at  9  A.  M.  16^  4'  easterly.  The  coast  here  tended 
about  S.E.  by  S.,  and  we  thought  we  could  discern  some  of  the  moun- 
tains of  snow,  about  seventy-five  miles  to  the  southward. 

Under  the  circumstances  before  mentioned,  being  without  wood,  on 
a  short  allowance  of  water,  and  the  season  far  advanced,  it  was  judged 
impiiident  to  proceed  farther  south  ;  although  I  felt  very  anxious  (being 
now  in  an  open  sea)  to  ascertain  the  extent  of  this  land  towards  the 
south.     We  therefore  tacked  about,  and  stood  to  the  north. 

March  19//<. — On  Wednesday,  the  19th,  we  were  close  in  with  tlie 
north  cape  of  New  South  Greenland ;  lat.  62^  41'  S.,  long.  47^  21'  W. 
by  dead  reckoning,  not  having  had  an  observation  for  three  days  ;  coast 
tending  to  the  south,  and  S.  by  V/.  This  land  abounds  with  oceanic 
birds  of  every  description ;  we  also  sav/  about  three  thousand  sea-ele- 
phants, and  one  hundred  and  fifty  sea-dogs  and  leopards. 

In  this  place,  I  think  it  proper  to  remark,  that  every  spot  I  have  vis- 
ited beyond  the  sixtieth  degree  in  these  high  south  latitudes,  is  entirely 
destitute  of  soil  or  vegetation ;  but  rising  in  vast  mountains,  or  columns 
of  impenetrable  rocks,  ice,  and  snow.  I  would  also  further  state,  what 
is  my  firm  conviction,  that  ice-islands  are  never  formed  except  in  bays 
and  other  recesses  of  the  land  ;  and  that  even  field-ice  is  never  pro- 
duced in  deep  water,  or  on  a  rough  sea.  The  necessary  inference, 
therefore,  is  this : — If  there  be  na  more  land  to  the  south  than  that 
with  which  we  are  already  acquainted,  the  antarctic  seas  must  be 
much  less  obstructed  by  ice  than  is  generally  supposed ;  and  that  a 
clear  sea  is  opcji  for  voyages  of  discovery.,  even  to  the  south  pole. 

The  existence  of  ice-fields,  at  a  vast  distance  in  the  antarctic  regions, 
whether  accompanied  by  ice-islands  or  not,  may  frequently  be  ascer- 
tained by  their  reflection  on  the  verge  of  the  horizon,  in  a  stratum  of 
local  whiteness.  This  appearance  is  occasioned  by  the  rays  of  light 
striking  the  surface  of  the  ice  obliquely ;  and  such  as  the  angle  of  in- 


70  STATEN  LAND.  [1825. 

cidence  happens  to  be,  such  is  the  degree  of  aUitude  in  the  atmosphere 
■where  tlie  appearance  is  produced.  This  shining  streak  of  hght  is 
always  brightest  in  clear  weather,  and  indicates  to  the  experienced 
mariner,  while  at  fifteen  or  twenty  miles'  distance,  not  only  the  extent 
and  figure  of  the  field,  but  even  the  quality  of  the  ice. 

From  the  second  day  after  we  left  the  "  Island  of  Desolation,"  up 
to  this  date,  March  19th,  we  have  not  passed  a  day  without  seeing  fields 
of  broken  ice,  or  ice-islands,  or  both  combined ;  and  during  all  that 
period  of  sixty-six  days,  we  have  had,  every  day,  more  or  less  snow 
or  hail.  This  was  very  unpleasant,  as  Ave  could  not  keep  ine  on  board, 
on  account  of  our  stock  of  wood  being  nearly  exhausted ;  although 
"we  found  far  less  ice,  and  much  finer  weather,  south  of  latitude  sixty- 
seven,  than  we  did  between  sixty-seven  and  sixty. 

On  Wednesday,  the  19th  of  March,  at  10  o'clock  P.M.,  we  bade  adieu 
to  the  cheerless  shores  of  New  South  Greenland,  and  steered  for 
Staten  Land,  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  the  south-east,  which  lasted  until 
Monday,  the  24th  ;  when,  at  9  A.M.,  we  anchored  in  the  harbour  of 
St.  John's,  or  East  Harbour,  in  seven  fathoms  of  water,  clay  bottom. 

March  24:th. — Staten  Land  is  an  island  which  forms  the  south- 
eastern extremity  of  South  America,  and  of  which  I  will  give  some 
account  in  the  next  chapter.  Knowing  that  its  shores  were  sometimes 
the  resort  of  fur-seal,  I  had  the  boats  manned  within  an  hour  after  we 
cast  anchor,  and  sent  them  round  the  island  in  search  of  that  animal. 
In  the  mean  time,  I  encountered  an  old  acquaintance,  in  the  brig  Her- 
silia,  of  Stonington,  Conn.,  Captain  James  Sheffield  commander,  who 
had  come  into  these  distant  regions  on  a  similar  errand  with  our  own. 

It  may  easily  be  conceived  that  it  was  very  pleasant  to  meet  one's 
fellow-townsmen  so  far  from  home,  and  engaged  in  the  same  pursuit  as 
ourselves. 

March  2Sth. — On  Friday,  the  28th,  our  boats  returned  from  their 
coasting  enterprise,  with  one  hundred  and  eighty-two  fur-seal  skins.  At 
seven,  P.  M.,  we  got  under  way,  in  company  with  the  Hersilia,  and 
steered  for  the  Falkland  Islands,  where  we  arrived  on  Sunday  morning 
at  three  o'clock,  and  anchored  in  Shallop  Cove,  on  the  east  side  of 
Kew  Island,  in  our  former  situation.  At  four  A.  M.,  I  despatched  the 
boats  in  search  of  seal ;  but,  after  an  absence  of  seventeen  hours,  they 
returned  with  only  twenty-two  fur-skins. 

March  ^\st, — On  the  following  mommg  at  four  o'clock,  A.  M.,  we 
again  got  under  w^ay  and  steered  to  the  south  and  west,  with  a  fresh 
breeze  from  N.W.  by  W. 

April  3(/.— Thursday  found  us  in  lat.  62°  8'  S.,  long.  66°  14'  W. 
■when  we  took  a  fresh  breeze  from  the  south-east,  and  steered  to  the 
westward,  until  we  were  in  lat.  65°  42'  S.,  long.  110°  16'  W. 

April  24:th. — During  this  run  we  saw  few  if  any  indications  of  land, 
and  there  was  very  little  ice  in  sight.  AVe  now  bore  up  for  Staten 
Land,  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  S.S.AV.,  attended  by  a  thick  snow- 
storm ;  and  continued  steering  to  the  north  and  east,  until  Thursday, 
the  24th,  when,  at  eight  P.  M.,  we  anchored  in  Hallett's  Harbour,  in 
five  fathoms  of  water,  on  the  north  side  of  Staten  Land.  On  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  at  four  A.  M.,  the  boats  were  sent  round  the  island  in 
search  of  seal ;  and  did  not  return  imtil  Tuesday,  the  29th,  at  5  P.M. 


April.]  STATEX  LAND.  7| 


CHAPTER  V. 

Erroneous  Ideas  corrected — Staten  Land — Strait  of  Le  ^Liire — Natural  History 
of  the  Fur-seal  and  Sea-elephant — Exaggerated  Accounts  of  Cape  Horn  Dan- 
gers accounted  for,  and  refuted — Doubling  the  Cape — Prevailing  Winds  and 
Weather  in  that  Region — Diego  Ramirez  Islands — Ildefonso's  Island — Christ- 
mas  Sound — Western  Entrance  to  the  Strait  of  Magellan — The  Wasp  sails 
from  Staten  Land,  and  arrives  at  the  Eastern  Entrance,  from  the  Atlantic — 
Enters  the  Strait,  and  anchors  in  the  Harbour  of  Cape  Negro. 

I  HAVE  said  that  Staten  Land  is  an  island  v/hich  forms  the  south- 
eastern extremity  of  South  America.  To  those  who  are  not  conver- 
sant with  maps,  this  is  not  sufficiently  explicit ;  I  will  therefore  be  more 
particular  in  describing  its  situation. 

I  find  that  many  persons,  who  ought  to  know  better,  are  under  the 
impression  that  the  continent  of  South  America,  as  it  stretches  into  the 
southern  hemisphere,  gradually  becomes  more  and  more  narrow,  until 
it  finally  tapers  off  to  a  point,  and  that  this  point  is  called  Cape  Horn. 
The  whole  of  this  idea  is  not  founded  in  truth ;  for  though  the  Soiith 
American  continent  does  gradually  become  more  and  more  attenuated, 
as  it  extends  beyond  the  tropic  of  Capricorn,  it  does  not  terminate  m  a 
point,  nor  wdthin  one  hundred  miles  of  the  celebrated  Cape  Horn. 

The  extreme  southern  prolongation  of  the  American  continent  is 
Cape  Froward,  in  the  Strait  of  Magellan,  in  lat.  54^  3'  S.  Sixty-five 
miles  north  of*  this,  at  the  river  Gallegos,  the  distance  across  Patago- 
nia, from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  coast,  is  about  two  hundred  miles. 
South,  or  rather  south-east,  of  Magellan's  Strait,  lies  a  large  cluster 
of  islands,  called  Terra  del  Fuego,  or  land  of  fire,  on  accoimt  of  its 
volcanoes.  The  greatest  width  of  this  cluster  north  and  south  is 
about  one  hmidred  and  sixty  miles  ;  and  its  length,  in  a  straight  line 
from  east  to  west,  is  about  double  that  distance.  Its  eastern  extremity 
forms  one  side  of  Le  Maire's  Strait,  and  a  srnall  island  called  Staten 
Land  fonns  the  other.  On  the  south  of  Terra  del  Fuego  are  other 
little  islands,  such  as  Hermit's,  Jordan's,  Bamavell's,  Evout's,  Saddle 
Island,  <fcc.  The  most  southern  of  this  cluster  is  called  Horn  Island, 
and  its  most  southern  extremity  is  called  Cape  Horn.  The  whole  of 
this  group,  south  and  south-east  of  the  continent,  ought  to  have  been 
called  the  Archipelago  of  jMaganhales,  or  Magellan,  in  honour  of  the 
discoverer. 

Staten  Land,  we  have  seen,  is  separated  by  the  Strait  of  Le  Maire 
from  the  island  of  Terra  del  Fuego,  as  the  latter  is  separated  from  the 
continent  by  the  Strait  of  Magellan.  It  presents  to  the  eye  of  the 
navigator  a  surface  of  craggy  hills,  wliich  rise  to  a  vast  height,  espe- 
cially near  the  west  end  of  the  island.  The  coast  is  rocky,  and  much 
indented  with  bays  and  inlets.  The  dismal  aspect  of  this  country 
(which  has  been  much  exaggerated)  is  painted  in  very  strong  colours 


72  '  STATEIS'  LAND.  [1823. J 

by  almost  every  navigator  "who  has  visited  or  passed  it.  It  did  not, 
however,  present  the  same  appalling  aspect  to  the  scientific  Captain 
Cook  that  it  did  to  the  more  romantic  Commodore  Anson.  That  un- 
speakable horror  and  wildness  mentioned  by  the  commodore  were  not 
observed  by  the  scientific  gentlemen  who  accompanied  the  captain ;  on 
the  contrary,  to  them  the  land  appeared  to  be  supplied  with  both  wood 
and  verdure  ;  "jior  was  it  covered  with  snow  ;  and  on  the  north  side 
they  saw  the  appearancq  of  bays  and  harbours." 

Even  our  American  commodore,  the  brave  and  undaunted  Porter,  in 
his  account  of  his  passage  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  in  the  U.  S.  frigate 
Essex,  in  the  month  of  February,  1813,  has  added  the  weight  of  his 
testimony  to  the  dismal  side  of  this  question.  Speaking  of  his  pas- 
sage through  the  little  strait  that  separates  this  island  from  Terra  del 
Fuego,  he  says,  "  The  land  w^e  first  made,  and  attempted  to  weather, 
was  Cape  San  Diego,  on  the  coast  of  Staten  Land,  and  the  appearance 
was  dreary  beyond  description.  Perhaps,  however,  the  critical  situa- 
tion of  the  ship,  the  foaming  of  the  breakers,  the  violence  of  the  wind, 
and  the  extreme  haziness  of  the  weather,  may,  all  combined,  have 
served  to  render  the  appearance  more  dreadful.  But  from  the  impres- 
sion made  by  its  appearance  then,  and  from  the  description  given  by 
others,  I  am  induced  to  believe  that  no  part  of  the  world  presents  a 
more  horrible  aspect  than  Staten  La7id" 

Staten  Land  is  certainly  more  steril  than  Terra  del  Fuego,  across 
the  strait ;  being,  in  general,  one  body  of  craggy  sharp-pointed  moun- 
tains ;  with  the  sea  surging  against  it  on  all  sides,  with  considerable 
violence.  But  there  are  several  very  good  harbours  on  the  north-east 
side.  Among  the  best  is  New-year's  Harbour,  so  called  from  being 
discovered  on  that  day.  It  is  readily  known  by  some  islands  that  lie 
about  its  entrance,  a  little  to  the  eastward  of  which  is  the  place  of  in- 
gress. It  is  about  tvvo  miles  in  length,  and  one  in  breadth ;  penetrating 
the  land  in  a  direction  nearly  S.W.  by  S.,  then  gradually  turning  to 
W.  by  S.  and  W. 

Here  you  may  have  any  depth  of  water,  from  thirty  fathoms  to  five, 
with  a  bottom  of  mud  and  sand.  Its  shores  abound  v/ith  wood  and 
fresh  water,  and  a  few  seal  of  the  fur  and  hair  kinds  are  frequently 
found  on  the  beach.  Scale-fish  of  various  sorts  may  be  caught  with 
hook  and  line,  and  sea-fowls  shot  in  several  directions.  Fresh  green 
celery  in  its  season  can  be  had  in  any  quantities,  together  with  some 
berries  of  an  agreeable  flavour. 

The  harbour  of  St.  John's,  or  East  Harbour,  is  also  a  fine  port  for 
a  ship  to  procure  wood  and  water,  having  an  easy  entrance  (about  four 
miles  to  the  westward  of  Cape  St.  John's),  as  you  may  pass  within  half 
a  cable's  length  of  the  shore  until  you  come  to  the  head  of  the  har- 
bour, where  you  can  anchor  in  four  or  five  fathoms,  mud  and  clay  bot- 
toms, entirely  land-locked. 

This  island  is  about  twelve  leagues  in  length,  lying  E.N.E.  and 
AV.S.W.  In  breadth  it  is  unequal,  but  nowhere  wide.  Its  north- 
eastern extremity  is  called  Cape  St.  John's,  lying  in  latitude  54°  47'  S. 
long.  63'^  41'  45"  W.  ;  variation  per  azimuth  22^  58'  easterly.  At 
€ach  end  of  this  island  there  are  very  strong  tide-rips,  which  have  the 


April.]  STRAIT  OF  LE  MAIRE.  73 

appearance  of  shoal  water,  and  are  often  the  cause  of  alarm  to  cautious 
mariners.  But  I  can  assure  such  that  they  may  dismiss  their  ill- 
grounded  apprehensions ;  for  they  may  circumnavigate  the  island  at 
at  any  time,  at  two  cables'  length  from  shore,  with  the  greatest  safety, 
in  ships  of  any  size. 

The  Strait  of  Le  Maire,  which  separates  Staten  Land  from 
Terra  del  Fuego,  is  a  safe  and  commodious  passage,  without  the 
slightest  symptom  of  those  dangers  which  have  been  attributed  to 
it  by  several  former  navigators.  Vessels  of  any  size  have  nothing  to 
fear,  two  cables'  length  from  shore,  on  either  side.  There  are  neither 
winds,  currents,  nor  calms  that  can  endanger  a  ship  in  this  passage, 
which  is  about  fifteen  miles  wide,  and  only  four  miles  in  length.  In  my 
opinion,  it  owes  all  its  supposed  terrors  to  its  being  in  a  high  latitude, 
and  so  far  from  home  I  The  Am.erican  prize  frigate  Macedonian  was 
brought  into  the  port  of  New- York  by  her  gallant  captor,  in  the  middle 
of  winter,  through  Hurlgate,  the  Scylla  and  Charybdis  of  Long  Island 
Sound.  Compare  this  with  a  strait  of  fifteen  miles  in  breadth  without 
a  rock  or  a  whirlpool. 

In  entering  the  Strait  of  Le  Maire,  you  pass  a  low  green  sloping 
point  of  land,  that  projects  out  from  Terra  del  Fuego,  in  an  E.N.E. 
direction  to  the  water.  On  the  opposite  side,  Staten  Land  presents  a 
high  bluff  point,  with  bold  water  to  the  edge  of  the  rocks.  In  passing 
between  these  two  distant  points,  there  can  be  no  more  difficulty  or 
danger  than  there  is  in  entering  Long  Island  Somid  from  the  ocean. 

Some  mariners  have  represented  it  to  be  difficult  to  discover  Strait 
Le  Maire.  But  I  know  that  any  navigator  who  keeps  the  land  of 
Terra  del  Fuego  in  sight  cannot  possibly  miss  or  mistake  the  strait. 
The  only  way,  therefore,  that  such  an  occurrence  could  take  place, 
would  be  by  losing  sight  of  the  land,  and  running  too  far  to  the 
eastward ;  which  should  never  be  done,  as  there  is  no  danger  that  can 
possibly  arise  from  keeping  the  western  shore  on  board.  Easterly 
winds  are  never  known  to  blow  fresh  in  this  part  of  the  v/orld  ;  and 
by  hugging  the  western  shore,  the  passage  to  the  Pacific  is  very 
much  shortened. 

April  29th. — On  Tuesday,  at  5  P.  i\I.,  our  boats  returned  from  their 
excursion  in  search  of  seal,  having  been  absent  four  days,  with  moderate 
success. 

The  seals  which  resort  to  the  islands  of  this  archipelago,  as  well  as 
to  other  islands  south  of  latitude  fifty,  are  generally  clotlied  in  jackets 
of  valuable  fur.  This  species  has  been  distinguished  by  naturalists, 
merely  for  their  size  and  shape ;  but  there  are  other  peculiarities  con- 
nected with  the  history  and  habits  of  this  animal,  of  a  far  m.ore  inter- 
esting nature,  which  I  have  never  yet  met  with  in  print ;  a  few  of 
which  I  will  endeavour  to  describe. 

.  In  killing  a  female  which  happens  to  be  with  young,  even  in  an  ac 
vanced  state  of  pregnancy,  if  the  scull  be  pressed  in  by  the  sealing 
club  in  dealing  the  fatal  blow,  an  exactly  similar  indentation  will  fre- 
quently be  found  on  the  scull  of  the  fcetus.     This  fact  is  a  practical 
illustration  of  the  wonderful  power  of  sympathy,  and  worthy  the  inves- 
tigation of  naturalists.     Although  modern  philosophers  have  laboured 


74  FUR-SEALS.  [1823.^ 

hard  to  refute  tiie  idea  of  such  a  sympathy  in  tlie  liiiman  race,  there' 
are  hundreds  of  credible  witnesses  ready  to  bear  testimony  to  its  ex- 
istence in  tliis  particular  species  of  marine  animals. 

The  striking  disparity  of  size  between  the  male  and  female  is  also 
worthy  of  remark.  The  large  male  is  about  seven  feet  in  length, 
whereas  the  female  never  exceeds  four  feet.  The  large  males  are  not 
the  most  numerous  ;  but,  being  the  most  powerful,  they  are  enabled  to 
keep  in  their  possession  all  the  females.  At  the  time  of  parturition, 
the  number  of  males  attending  one  female  is  in  the  proportion  of  about 
one  to  a  dozen ;  a  proof  that  these  animals  are  the  greatest  polyga- 
mists  in  the  world,  not  even  excepting  the  Turks.  That  they  are  gre- 
garious and  social  is  evident  to  the  most  superficial  observer  who 
surveys  iheir  rookeries,  where  they  herd  together  in  classes,  and  at 
different  periods. 

Warmed  by  the  cheering  influence  of  an  antarctic  spring,  the  males 
of  the  largest  size  go  on  shore  about  the  first  of  November,  corres- 
ponding to  our  May,  and  there  wait  the  arrival  of  the  females,  \vhich 
happens  about  the  first  of  December.  This  of  course  is  an  annual  as- 
signation, and  occurs  as  regularly  as  the  migration  of  our  northern 
shad  from  the  ocean  to  the  fresh-water  rivers,  for  purposes  perfectly 
analogous.  As  soon  as  the  female  seal  makes  her  appearance  at  the  edge 
of  the  beach,  one  of  the  most  gallant  of  the  males  immediately  takes 
her  under  his  protection.  It  seldom  happens,  however,  that  he  is  not 
obliged  to  sustain  his  right  by  one  or  more  serious  combats  with  his 
rivals.  AVhile  the  males  are  fighting  in  the  most  desperate  manner, 
the  object  of  their  bloody  feud  sits  calmly  looking  on,  contemplating 
the  fray  with  apparent  delight,  and  no  little  self-complacency.  I  have 
some  reason  to  believe  that  the  same  feeling  has  been  evinced  by 
females  of  a  higher  species ;  but  on  this  head  I  do  not  presume  to 
speak  positively :  the  seal  battles  I  have  seen,  and  studied  the  coun- 
tenance of  their  object ;  who  voluntarily  yields,  herself  to  the  con- 
queror as  soon  as  the  contest  is  decided,  at  the  same  time  casting  a 
look  of  inefi'able  contempt  upon  his  vanquished  rival. 

The  proud  victor  now  conducts  his  lovely  prize  from  the  late  scene 
of  contention  up  to  the  rookery  prepared  for  her  accommodation ;  and 
this  he  does  with  a  courtesy  and  tenderness  of  manner  from  which 
some  husbands  might  derive  a  useful  lesson.  At  almost  every  step  he 
politely  bows  or  nods  to  his  new  bride,  and  frequently  touches  her  lips 
with  his  own.  When  the  female  has  selected  her  lodgings,  and  become 
settled  in  the  rookery,  her  partner  is  unremitting  in  his  cares  to  afibrd 
her  protection,  and  render  her  situation  comfortable ;  nor  does  she 
evince  the  slightest  indications  of  jealousy  while  he  is  showing  the 
same  polite  attentions  to  a  dozen  other  wives  !  Here,  I  believe,  my 
former  comparison  does  not  exactly  hold  good. 

By  the  last  of  December,  all  the  females  have  accomplished  the 
purpose  for  which  they  came  on  shore.  In  this  process,  however, 
they  evidently  endure  a  great  deal  of  pain ;  and  the  males  appear  to  be 
much  aff'ected  by  their  sufferings, — redoubling  their  afi'ectionate  atten- 
tions, and  adopting  various  expedients  to  relieve  their  distress. 

The  sense  of  smell,  as  well  as  that  of  hearing,  in  these  animals  is 


'AprU.]  FUR-SEALS.  75 

remarkably  acute ;  and  for  sagacity  they  are  not  a  wliit  inferior  to  the 
dog.  This  latter  quality,  however,  is  more  strikingly  exhibited  in  their 
natural  element  than  on  land. 

*  As  a  proof  of  their  docility,  I  may  mention,  that  I  have  taken  two 
young  pups,  of  two  or  three  weeks  old,  taught  them  to  feed,  and  kept 
them  with  me,  as  pets,  for  two  or  three  months  ;  in  which  time  they 
became  so  tame  that  they  would  eat  out  of  my  hand, — expressing  for 
nie  a  great  degree  of  fondness  and  affection,  and  soliciting  my  caresses 
in  the  bleating  voice  of  a  young  lamb.  I  should  have  probably  had 
them  to  this  day,  but  some  of  the  crew,  whose  enmity  I  had  incurred 
by  a  proper  adherence  to  nautical  discipline,  found  occasion  to  destroy 
them  both. 

The  fur-seal  may  be  known  from  the  hair-seal  by  its  being  of  a 
much  smaller  size ;  their  noses  aro  also  smaller,  and  much  more 
pointed.  In  swimming,  likewise,  they  have  a  sort  of  jumping  motion, 
not  much  unlike  that  of  the  porpoise  ;  frequently  springing  six  or  eight 
feet  clear  of  the  water,  which  is  a  feat  the  hair-seal  never  performs, 
except  when  excessively  frightened,  and  even  then  they  seldom  succeed 
in  throwing  their  bodies  clear  of  the  water. 

!  When  these  animals  are  for  the  first  time  visited  by  man,  they  evince 
no  more  apprehension  of  danger  from  their  new  guests  than  did  the 
natives  of  San  Salvador  when  first  visited  by  the  Spaniards ;  and  the 
confidence  of  the  poor  seals  is  requited  in  the  same  manner  that  theirs 
was, — by  robbery  and  murder !  In  fact,  they  will  lie  still  while  their 
companions  are  slaughtered  and  skinned.  But  they  soon  become  ac- 
quainted with  the  barbarous  character  of  their  invaders,  withdraw  their 
ill-placed  confidence,  and  avoid  the  fatal  intimacy.  They  now  acquire 
habits  of  distrust  and  caution,  and  devise  ways  and  means  for  counter- 
acting human  stratagem  and  treachery.  They  select  more  solitary 
retreats,  on  the  tops  of  rocks,  beneath  high  projecting  cliffs,  from 
ivhich  they  can  precipitate  themselves  into  the  water  the  moment  they 
perceive  the  approach  of  their  arch  enemy.  -  • 

While  encamped  in  their  rookeries,  three  or  four  sentinels  are  always 
posted  to  keep  a  look-out  while  the  others  sleep ;  and  the  moment  a 
boat  makes  its  appearance,  though  it  be  a  mile  from  the  shore,  these 
faithful  w^atchmen  promptly  give  the  alarm,  when  in  an  instant  the 
■whole  rookery  is  in  motion.  Every  one  makes  for  the  surf  with  all 
possible  expedition ;  so  that  by  the  time  the  boat  reaches  the  shore, 
they  will  nearly  all  be  in  the  water,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  females 
that  have  pups  or  young  ones  to  take  care  of.  These  will  remain  to 
defend  and  protect  their  charge  until  the  last  moment ;  when,  if  hard 
pushed,  they  will  seize  their  pups  by  the  back  of  the  neck  with  their 
teeth,  and  dive  into  the  surf,  where  they  are  obliged  to  hold  the  heads 
of  the  pups  above  water  to  prevent  their  sufibcation. 

The  males,  many  of  them,  will  also  stand  their  ground,  and  fight 
very  hard  for  the  young  seals  ;  often  till  they  perish  in  the  noble  cause. 
In  different  voyages  to  these  seas,  I  have  had  more  than  fifty  seamen 
very  severely  bitten  in  some  of  these  contests ;  yet  it  seldom  happens 
that  a  man  gets  bitten  who  is  not  afraid  of  them :  but  the  moment  they 
perceive  the  slightest  symptom  of  fear  or  cowardice  in  their  enemy, 


76  THE  SEA-ELEPHAI\'T.  [1823. 

they  begin  to  follow  him  up  very  close.  WTien  excited,  their  motions  are 
very  quick, — like  the  flash  of  a  gun  on  touching  the  match  :  hence  the 
name  of  clap-jnatch^  which  sailors  apply  to  the  female.  In  retreat  or 
pursuit,  their  speed  is  nearly  equal  to  that  of  a  man,  and  much  swifter 
on  the  rocks  than  could  be  anticipated  from  their  appearance. 

About  the  latter  end  of  February  the  dog-seals  go  on  shore :  these 
are  the  young  male  seals  of  the  two  preceding  years ;  but  owing  to 
their  youth  and  inexperience,  are  not  yet  allowed  to  attend  the  pregnant 
females  or  clap-matches.  The  purposes  for  which  they  now  seek  dry 
land  are,  to  shed  their  coats,  and  give  the  new-starting  crop  of  fine  hau- 
a  chance  to  grow.  By  the  first  of  May  these  objects  are  effected, 
when  they  again  take  to  the  ocean,  and  are  seldom  seen  near  the  shores 
again  until  the  first  of  July,  when  they  appear  and  disappear  alternately, 
■  without  order  or  any  ostensible  purpose,  for  the  period  of  a  month ; 
after  which  they  are  seen  no  more  until  the  first  of  September  follow- 
ing. During  this  month  a  herd  of  young  seals,  male  and  female,  resort 
to  the  shore  ;  and  when  they  retire  again  to  their  favourite  element,  the 
w'igs,  or  large  male  seals,  make  their  appearance  on  the  land,  for  the 
purpose  of  selecting  a  suitable  spot  for  their  rookeries,  where  they  are 
to  receive  the  clap-matches,  or  females  of  age.  This  completes  the 
annual  round  of  visits  made  to  the  land  by  fur-seals  of  all  classes.  In 
high  northern  latitudes  the  same  process  occurs  in  the  opposite  season. 

I  will  nov/  attempt  to  give  a  description  of  the  sea-elephant,  an  ani- 
mal of  w^hich  the  public  in  general  have  a  very  imperfect  idea.  The 
male  of  this  species  has  a  cartilaginous  substance  projecting  forvrard 
from  the  nose,  six  or  seven  inches  in  length  ;  and  from  this  peculiarity- 
has  the  animal  derived  its  name,  as  its  purpose  seems  to  be  similar  to 
that  of  an  elephant's  proboscis.  I  have  seen  the  male  sea-elephant, 
more  than  twenty-five  feet  in  length,  and  measuring  about  sixteen  feet 
around  the  body  ;  vrhereas  the  female  is  never  half  that  size,  and  in 
form  resembles  the  hair-seal,  which  does  not  materially  differ  from  the 
"fur-animal  in  shape,  &:c. 

!  The  male  sea-elephant  comes  on  shore  the  latter  end  of  August ; 
the  female  late  in  September,  or  about  the  first  of  October ;  her  purpose, 
of  course,  to  be  delivered  of  a  present  burden,  and  afterward  yield  to 
the  irresistible  influence  of  the  universal  passion.  When  the  males 
first  come  on  shore  they  are  so  excessively  fat,  that  I  have  seen  two 
from  which  might  be  produced  a  tun  of  oil ;  but  after  a  residence  of 
three  months  on  the  land,  without  food,  they  become,  as  might  be 
expected,  very  lean  and  emaciated.  About  the  middle  of  Decembei', 
their  young  being  old  enough  to  take  the  water,  the  whole  breeding- 
herd  leave  the  shore,  to  follow  where  instinct  leads  among  the  hidden 
recesses  of  the  deep.  About  the  first  of  January  the  brood  of  the 
previous  year  come  on  shore  to  renew  their  coats ;  and  in  the  middle 
of  February  the  full-grown  males  and  females  do  the  same ;  and  by 
the  first  of  May  they  have  all  disappeared,  both  old  and  young. 

From  the  fact  of  these  animals  living  so  long  on  shore  without  food 
I  should  infer  that  they  can  derive  sustenance  by  absorption  during 
this  period, — consuming  the  substance  of  their  own  bodies.  Hence 
their  extreme  emaciation  at  the  time  they  return  to  the  ocean.     There 


April.]  PASSAGE  ROUND  CAPE  HORN.  77 

is  a  striking  contrast  between  their  clumsy,  sluggisii  motions  on  land 
and  their  agility  and  sagacity  in  the  water.  Unlike  the  fur-seal,  tlie 
sea-elephant  seldom  runs  or  fights  ;  but  when  the  club  is  aimed  at  his 
scull,  or  the  lance  at  his  heart,  he  merely  raises  a  supphcating  look  to 
his  murderer,  while  the  tears  overflow  from  his  eyes,  and  then  awaits 
the  death-stroke  with  a  martyr-like  composure.  But  were  he  conscious 
of  his  own  powers,  or  were  his  courage  equal  to  them,  the  assailant 
would  probably  get  the  worst  of  the  bargain.  Unwieldly  as  his  form 
appears,  should  he  rush  forward,  and  compel  his  enemy  to  come  to 
close  quarters,  human  skill  could  avail  little  against  the  astonishing 
power  of  his  ja\v3,  v.hich,  in  the  agonies  of  death,  will  literally  grind 
the  hardest  stones  to  powder  between  his  teeth. 

It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  the  sea-elephant  has  never  been  seen  in 
the  water  by  any  navigator  more  than  thirty  rods  from  the  shore.  I 
have  seen  them  come  up  to  take  breath  within  half  a  cable's  length 
of  the  beach ;  but  even  then  they  only  allowed  about  half  an  inch  of 
their  nose  to  come  above  water. 

As  I  shall  shortly  invite  the  reader's  attention  to  my  passage  through 
the  Strait  of  Magellan,  it  may  not  be  improper  in  this  place  to  offer  a 
few  remarks  on  the  long-agitated  subject  of  a  passage  round  Cape 
Horn. 

I  have  already  said,  that  by  hugging  the  western  shore,  the  passage 
to  the  Pacific  is  very  much  shortened  :  I  would,  therefore,  earnestly 
recommend  shipmasters  who  intend  to  double  Cape  Horn  always  to 
pass  to  the  westward  of  the  Falkland  Islands,  which  will  ensure  them 
smoother  water  and  better  v/eather.  Experience  has  convinced  me 
that  the  coast  here,  at  the  proper  season  of  the  year,  is  not  more  dan- 
gerous than  our  own  coast  in  the  fall.  All  navigators  would  be  satis- 
fied of  this  fact  would  they  discard  from  their  imaginations  the  homble 
romances  they  have  heard  and  read  about  Cape  Horn,  and  judge  for 
themselves  with  unprejudiced  minds, — most  of  these  nautical  legends 
being  only  fit  to  class  wdth  the  fiction  of  the  Flying  Dutchman. 

I  have  wintered  and  summered  off  Cape  Horn,  and  in  its  vicinity, 
but  never  witnessed  those  extraordinary  gales  which  we  so  often  hear 
spoken  of;  I  have  never  encountered  worse  weather  on  tliis  coast  than 
is  experienced  every  autumn  and  spring  in  a  passage  from  New- York 
to  Liverpool.     In  doubling  Cape  Horn,  a  ship  may  carry  her  royal- 
yards  with  as  much  ease  as  she  can  along  our  northern  coast  in  the 
seasons  before  mentioned,  and  in  the  early  part  of  winter. 
>   In  this  opinion,  founded  on  my  own  experience,  I  am  sustained  by 
the  testimony  of  Cook,  Vancouver,  La  Perouse,  and  others,  including 
my  friend  Captain  Weddell,  whose  journals  are  all  before  the  pubhe. 
The  four  gentlemen  here  named  as  circumnavigators  of  the  globe 
occupy  the  very  highest  rank  in  nautical  eminence,  and  require  not  the 
homely  eulogium  of  a  seaman's  pen.      But  their  journals  are  not 
*•  steeped  in  horrors  ;"  they  found  nothing  terrible,  formidable,  or  even 
difficult,  in  doubling  Cape  Horn,  or  in  exploring  other  distant  regions, 
as  others  of  far  inferior  abilities  have  done. 

But  though  these  contradictory  reports  cannot  well  be  reconciled, 
they  may  perhaps  be  accounted  for  without  imputing  wilful  misrepre- 


78  PASSAGE  ROUIsD  CAPE  HORX.  [1823. 

sentation  to  any  one.  No  two  men  can  view  the  same  object  through 
the  same  medium,  because  their  mental  as  well  as  physical  organiza- 
tions are  diflerently  constructed  and  arranged.  Peculiar  circumstances 
also  produce  powerful  and  lasting  impressions.  What  would  have 
been  the  report  of  a  Patagonian  or  a  Terra  del  Fuegan  navigator, 
had  he  visited  our  coast  on  the  23d  of  September,  1815,  somewhere 
in  the  vicinity  of  Nantucket,  or  at  the  entrance  of  I-ong  Island  Sound  ? 
On  his  return  to  the  placid  Strait  of  Magellan,  he  would  have  congratu- 
lated his  countrymen  on  being  placed  by  Providence  so  far  beyond  the 
reach  of  such  a  horrible  tornado  as  he  had  witnessed  in  the  most 
pleasant  month  of  a  northern  autumn ;  and  the  horrors  of  doubling 
jMontauk  Point  vrould  have  been  the  theme  of  many  a  winter's  even- 
ing tale. 

To  some  minds  trivial  and  even  common  difficulties  are  apt  to  loom 
up  into  evils  of  enormous  magnitude :  how  much  more  so  when  en- 
countered for  the  first  time,  and  at  a  vast  distance  from  the  scenes  of 
early  days  !  But  even  such  persons,  "when  once  they  become  famil- 
iarized to  danger  and  hardships,  view  every  thing  with  a  clearer, 
calmer,  and  more  philosophic  eye,  until  they  are  "willing  to  confess 
that  every  part  of  the  created  universe  has  its  uses  and  its  beauty,  and 
that  every  apparent  evil  is  a  real  good.  "  In  wisdom  thou  hast  made 
them  all !"     "His  tender  mercies  are  over  all  his  works." 

To  return  from  this  digression.  Ships  bound  round  Cape  Horn, 
after  passing  the  Strait  of  Le  Maire  and  Cape  Good  Success  (a  pro- 
jecting point  of  Terra  del  Fuego,  a  little  south  of  the  strait),  should 
steer  S.S.AV.  half  W.,  taking  care  to  pass  to  the  south  and  east  of  all 
the  islands,  should  the  current  set  to  the  westward,  which  seldom 
happens.  If  it  be  night,  hovv-ever,  and  the  "wind  permit,  they  should 
steer  S.  by  W.  half  W.  Should  they  be  in  want  of  wood  and  water, 
they  can  obtain  a  supply  in  the  Bay  of  Good  Success,  before  leaving 
the  strait.  This  bav,  which  is  visible  from  the  northern  entrance  of 
the  strait,  is  about  two  miles  wide,  and  extends  into  the  land,  west- 
wardly,  two  miles  and  a  half.  Itniay  easily  be  known  by  a  peculiar 
mark  or  feature  on  its  southern  side,  resembling  a  broad  turnpike-road 
rimning  into  the  country  from  the  shore.  The  anchorage  is  good  all 
over  it,  in  from  four  to  twelve  fathoms  of  water,  clear  ground.  The 
tide  rises  here  about  six  feet,  and  it  is  high  water  on  full  and  change 
days  at  a  quarter  past  four.  The  flood-tide  runs  to  the  north,  and 
about  two  hours  longer  in  the  strait  than  in  the  bay. 

Four  leagues  south  of  this  bay  is  the  Cape  of  Good  Success,  before 
mentioned,  terminating  in  a  point,  from  which  the  coast  suddenly  turns 
to  the  westward.  About  forty  miles  from  this  cape,  S.W.  half  W.,  is 
New  Island,  within  three  leagues  of  the  shore ;  and  seven  leagues 
S.W.  from  this  lies  Evout's  Isle.  At  a  short  distance,  S.  by  W.  from 
the  latter,  are  two  small  low  islands  near  to  each  other,  called  Barne- 
velt's ;  and  four  leagues  farther,  S.W.  by  S.,  is  Cape  Deceh. 

Cape  Horn,  which  lies  nine  miles  farther  S.S.W.,  may  be  known 
by  a  high  round  hill  over  it,  M'hich  has  a  bold  and  majestic  appearance, 
being  an  elevated  precipitous  black  rock  rising  conspicuously  above  all 
the  adjacent  land.  Back  from  the  pitch  of  the  cape,  northwardly, 
the  country  is  covered  with  woods,  and  inliabited  by  a  poor,  miserable, 


April.]  PASSAGE  ROUND  CAPE  HORN.  79 

inoffensive  race  of  savages.  The  valleys  and  hill-sides  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  cape  are  covered  with  trees,  moss,  and  green  grass  ; 
but  the  summits  of  the  hills  are  rough  and  rocky. 

Nine  miles  north-north-east  from  Cape  Horn  is  Cape  Deceit,  before 
mentioned ;  a  rocky  point,  and  the  most  easterly  of  Hermit's  Islands. 
This  cape  has  a  very  deceptive  appearance,  and  strangers  should  be 
careful  not  to  mistake  it  for  Cape  Horn ;  for  such  mistakes  have 
occurred,  as  its  name  imports.  The  rocky  islands  callea  Barnevelt's, 
lying  north-east-by-north  from  Cape  Deceit,  are  surrounded  by  deep 
bold  water ;  but  ships  should  always  keep  to  the  eastward  of  them, 
until  the  strait  formed  by  Hermit's  Islands  and  the  main  of  Terra  del 
Fuego  has  been  more  critically  explored  and  surveyed.  The  northern 
entrance  of  this  strait  opens  from  the  capacious  Bay  of  Nassau,  but  I  am 
not  sufficiently  acquainted  with  its  navigation  to  attempt  a  description. 
I  know,  however,  that  it  contains  many  fine  harbours,  sheltered  from 
all  winds.  On  either  side  of  Hermit's  Islands,  the  passage  is  believed 
to  be  safe  ;  there  being  deep  water,  and  no  hidden  dangers.  i 

About  the  first  of  November,  northwardly  winds  begin  to  prevail  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  cape  ;  and,  with  the  exception  of  occasional  changes, 
continue  mitil  the  first  of  February.  From  this  period  until  May,  the 
wind  generally  blows  from  the  south-^vest  quarter,  occasionally  shifting 
to  the  north-west.  From  the  middle  of  May  to  the  first  of  June,  east- 
erly winds  and  fine  weather  prevail ;  and  from  July  to  October,  the 
wind  varies  from  north  to  west,  and  round  to  south-east,  every  four  or 
five  days. 

About  fifty  miles  south-west  of  Cape  Horn  are  the  islands  of  Diego 
Ramirez,  extending  north-west  and  south-east,  for  a  space  of  four  or 
five  miles.  This  cluster  is  composed  of  three  principal  islands,  and 
a  great  many  rocks  above  water.  The  centre  island  is  the  largest, 
but  contains  neither  wood  nor  water.  As  I  shall  speak  of  them  pres- 
ently, I  have  merely  introduced  them  here  because  the  currents  in 
their  neighbourhood  deserve  some  attention.  Twenty-five  miles  to 
the  south  of  Diego  Ramirez,  the  current  is  constantly  setting  to  the 
east-north-east,  and  north-east-by-east,  about  eight  miles  in  twenty- 
four  hours.  But  farther  in-sliore  it  is  governed  by  the  ebb  and  flood 
tides,  which  correspond  to  the  course  of  the  land. 

In  doubling  Cape  Horn,  with  the  wind  from  the  north  and  west,  or 
from  the  east,  ships  bound  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  should  haul  close  round 
the  cape,  and  then,  if  practicable,  make  a  due  west  course  until  they 
are  in  the  longitude  of  eighty  west.  If  the  wind  continue  to  blow  from 
the  north,  they  should  run  as  far  as  ninety,  as  they  may  then  have  the 
advantage  of  westerly  winds  to  run  to  the  northward,  along  the  coast 
of  Chili ;  being  careful  not  to  approach  the  land  until  they  are  to  the 
north  of  Valdivia. 

The  Cape  Horn  gales  have  already  been  alluded  to  m  connexion 
with  the  exaggerated  accounts  which  several  navigators  have  given 
of  them.  The  heaviest  and  most  lasting  of  these  are  from  south- 
south-west  to  south-by-east.  They  are  most  frequent  in  the  summer 
months,  and  often  last  two  or  three  days  at  a  time.  When  the  southern 
horizon  is  filled  with  rising  clouds,  heavy  and  white,  in  a  blue  sky,  it  is 
a  sure  indication  of  a  lasting  gale  of  wind  from  the  south  to  south- 


80  PASSAGE  ROUND  CAPE  HORN.  [1823. 

west,  which  often  comes  on  very  suddenly,  scarcely  allowing  sufficient 
time  to  take  in  the  light  sails,  and  close-reef  the  topsails. 

When  the  wind  sets  in  from  the  north  and  east,  it  generally  increases 
to  a  smart  single-reef  breeze ;  at  which  it  remains,  unless  it  hauls  to 
the  south-east,  from  which  quarter  it  Avill  blow  a  moderate  gale,  and 
then  die  away  to  a  perfect  calm.  But  if  it  haul  to  the  north,  you 
may  depend  upon  two  or  three  days  of  pleasant  weather ;  until  it  hauls 
gently  round  to  the  north-west,  where  it  will  remain  from  twelve  to 
eighteen  hours.  It  will  then  commence  raining,  and  finally  shift  gently 
to  the  south-west,  when  the  weather  w^ill  become  clear. 

A  northerly  gale  likewise  comes  on  gradually,  until  it  blows  a  double 
or  close-reef  breeze,  and  lasts  about  twelve  or  eighteen  hours,  and  then 
draws  to  the  north-west,  which  brings  on  rain.  Presently  it  shifts 
into  the  south-west,  without  relaxing  its  force,  and  continues  m  that 
point  for  twelve  or  sixteen  hours,  when  it  dies  away  to  a  perfect  calm. 

Such  is  the  general  course  of  the  wind  and  weather  in  the  vicinity 
of  Cape  Horn,  for  the  season  round. 

The  islands  of  Diego  Ramirez,  mentioned  above,  are  in  latitude 
56°  27'  S.,  long.  68°  38'  45"  W.  They  are,  in  fact,  a  cluster  of 
barren  rocks,  frequented  by  seals  of  the  fur  kind,  and  various  oceanic 
birds.  The  westernmost  rock  is  the  highest,  and  is  surrounded  by 
several  small  rocks,  sufhciently  elevated  for  birds  and  seals  to  resort 
to.  These  rocks  are  sixteen  leagues  from  Horn  Island,  between  which 
and  them  the  passage  is  open,  and  entirely  free  from  danger.  Around 
these  rocks  the  water  is  bold  within  a  cable's  length  of  them ;  and  in 
clear  weather  a  ship  may  safely  run  for  them  in  the  night,  by  keeping 
a  good  look-out. 

West  of  Hermit's  are  Ildefonso's  Islands,  in  latitude  55°  50'  30" 
S.,  long.  69°  18'  W.  This  is  a  group  of  rocky  isles  lying  twenty 
miles  distant  from  the  nearest  land.  The  passage  between  them  and 
Diego  Ramirez  is  thirty-five  miles  in  width,  and  entirely  free  from  dan- 
ger. From  Ildefonso  to  the  entrance  of  Christmas  Sound,  the  course 
is  north-wTst-by-v/est-half-west,  distant  twenty-eight  or  thirty  miles. 

Christmas  Sound  lies  to  the  westward  of  Cape  Horn,  about  ninety- 
five  miles.  It  w^as  visited  in  1774  by  the  celebrated  Cook,  who  ob- 
serves that  it  affords  good  anchorage  in  various  parts.  At  the  head 
of  the  sound  is  a  sandy  beach,  with  a  run  of  fresh  water.  Fish  are 
scarce  here,  and  fowls  not  very  abundant.  There  are  plenty  of  muscles 
and  good  celery.  AYood  and  water  can  be  had  in  all  the  various  coves 
and  harbours.  The  inhabitants  live  on  the  low  islands  in  the  bay,  and 
are  a  short,  miserable  race  of  savage  beings.  At  the  west  entrance 
of  Christmas  Sound  is  a  lofty  promontory,  called  York-minster,  in 
iathude  55°  25'  S.,  long.  69°  58'  W.  The  adjacent  country,  both 
east  and  west,  has  an  inhospitable  and  dreary  appearance.  The  coast 
is  broken,  and  forms  a  chain  of  islands. 

Ten  leaofues  to  the  westward  of  Christmas  Sound  are  Gilbert's 
Islands ;  and  about  the  same  distance  west-north-west  of  them  is 
Cape  Desolation,  in  latitude  54°  55'  S.,  long  71°  42'  W.  Fifteen 
leagues  west-by-north  of  this  cape  is  the  entrance  to  St.  Barbara's 
Channel,  which  leads  into  the  Strait  of  Magellan.     Cape  Noir  forms 


May.]  THE  STRAIT  OF  MAGELLAN.  Ql 

the  western  pom  of  this  entrance,  a  dark  rocky  island,  in  latitude  54* 
31'  S.,  long.  73^  15'  W.  Three  leagues  south-east-by-south  from 
this  cape  are  the  La  Tour  Isles ;  and  eight  leagues  north-west  from 
Cape  Noir  is  Cape  Gloucester,  in  lathude  54^  6'  S.,  long.  73^  34' 
30"  W.  This  latter  cape  is  high  and  roimd,  having  much  the  ap- 
pearance of  an  island.  i 

About  sixteen  leagues  to  the  north-west  of  Cape  Gloucester  is 
Land-fall  Island,  which  presents  a  high  and  rugged  appearance ;  and 
between  the  two  are  many  rocks  and  reefs,  stretching  about  two 
leagues  from  the  shore.  The  coast  now  runs  north-west-by-west  to 
Cape  Deseado,  between  which  and  Land-fall  Island  is  one  chain  of 
small  islands.  North  of  Cape  Deseado  is  Cape  Pillar,  the  north-west 
extremity  of  Terra  del  Fuego,  and  constituting  the  southern  boundary 
of  the  western  entrance  into  the  Straits  of  Magellan. 

Having  thus  assisted  the  reader  in  doubling  Cape  Horn,  and  piloted 
him  fairly  into  the  Pacific  Ocean,  without  exposing  him  to  a  single 
danger,  I  shall  now  conduct  him  back  to  Staten  Land,  in  the  Atlantic  ; 
and  from  thence  invite  him  to  accompany  me  on  another  route  to  the 
same  place ;  viz.  through  the  Strait  of  Magellan. 

April  29. — On  Tuesday,  the  twenty-ninth  of  April,  at  six  o'clock, 
P.  M.,  we  weighed  anchor,  and  sailed  from  Staten  Land,  with  a  fine 
south-westerly  breeze  and  fair  weather;  our  course  in  steering  for 
the  Strait  of  Magellan  being  west-north-west.  Leaving  Capes  St. 
Diego  and  St.  Vincent  on  our  left,  we  soon  came  abreast  of  St.  Innes, 
in  latitude  54^  7'  S.,  long.  66°  58'  W.  This  is  a  very  remarkable 
part  of  the  coast,  from  the  appearance  of  a  table-land,  which  mariners 
generally  calculate  to  make  when  they  are  bound  round  Cape  Horn. 
From  Cape  St.  Innes  to  Cape  St.  Sebastian,  the  course  is  Avest-north- 
west-half-north,  distance  about  twenty  leagues.  The  shore  between  the 
two  last-mentioned  capes  is  rocky,  and  dangerous  to  approach  in  the 
night.  Cape  St.  Sebastian  is  the  southern  boundary  of  a  channel  of 
the  same  name,  wliich  is  navigable  by  small  vessels,  and  runs  into  the 
Strait  of  Magellan.  Fourteen  leagues  north-west  from  Cape  St.  Se-. 
bastian  is  Queen  Catherine's  Foreland,  in  latitude  52°  42'  S.,  long. 
68°  27'  W.  Variation  per  azimuth  23°  15'  easterly.  This  cape 
forms  the  southern  boundary  of  the  Atlantic  entrance  to  the  Strait  of 
Magellan,  being  the  north-east  extremity  of  Terra  del  Fuego.  Cape 
Virgin,  the  south-east  point  of  Patagonia,  forms  the  northern  boundary 
of  the  same  strait. 

Ma)/  1st. — On  Thursday,  the  first  day  of  May,  we  arrived  in  safety 
at  the  east  entrance  of  the  Strait  of  Magellan.  At  four  o'clock,  P. 
M.,  we  passed  Queen  Catherine's  Foreland,  with  the  wind  at  south- 
west, and  fair  weather.  It  may  be  proper  to  remark  in  this  place,  that 
thick  or  wet  weather  is  very  uncommon  on  the  east  coast  of  Patago- 
nia. We  continued  to  ply  westwardly  during  the  night,  keeping  one 
man  constantly  in  the  chains,  heaving  the  lead. 

May  2d, — On  Friday  morning,  at'^five  o'clock,  A.  jNI.,  we  passed  the 
narrows,  with  a  strong  tide  in  our  favour ;  and  at  nine,  P.  M.,  we  came 
to  anchor  in  the  harbour  of  Cape  Negro,  in  five  fathoms  of  water, 
clay  bottom.  F 


^%  STRAIT  OF  MAGELL.\N.  [182». 


CHAPTER  YI. 

Strait  of  Magellan — Face  of  the  Country — Hailed  by  a  Troop  of  Patagonians  — 
Arrival  at  Port  Famine — History  of  the  Place — Ledger  River — Natural  Produc- 
tions— An  Excursion  into  the  Interior — Ruins  of  Philipville — Cape  Froward 
— Indians  of  the  Highlands  described — A  Visit  to  their  Village — The  Visit  recip- 
rocated— Excursion  up  the  River  Capac,  accompanied  by  tw^o  Chiefs — Adven- 
tures in  returning — Filial  Aflection  of  a  Chief's  Son — Character,  Manners, 
Habits,  Customs,  Employments,  and  Dress  of  the  Natives — Their  Canoes, 
Arms,&c. — Their  Want  of  Cleanliness,  moral  Condition,  and  probable  Origin — 
Enter  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

Terra  del  Fuego,  generally  represented  as  one  large  island,  is  in 
fact  composed  of  several  islands,  the  cluster  being  separated  from  the 
continent  of  South  America  by  the  Strait  of  Magellan.  The  passages 
between  these  different  islands  are  very  narrow,  and  have  never  yet 
been  explored.  The  interior  of  the  largest  presents  a  cold,  dreary, 
cheerless,  and  desolate  appearance ;  rising  into  rugged  barren  moun- 
tains, the  summits  of  which  are  covered  with  snow.  One  of  these  is 
a  volcano,  the  fires  of  which  occasionally  brighten  and  illunie  the 
snows,  which  they  can  never  melt. 

"  Here  it  was,"  says  Burney,  "  that  the  sailors  observed  fires  on 
the  sonthern  shores  of  the  strait,  for  which  reason  the  land  on  that 
side  was  called  Terra  del  Fuego."  Another  writer  says,  "  Narrow 
channels,  strong  currents,  and  boisterous  winds  render  it  dangerous  to 
enter  into  this  desolate  labyrinth.  The  coast,  which  is  composed  of 
granite,  lava,  and  basaltic  rocks,  is  inaccessible  in  many  places. 
Cataracts  interrupt  the  stillness  that  reigns  there ;  seals  sport  in  the 
bays,  or  repose  their  unwieldy  bodies  on  the  sand." 

Notwithstanding  the  cheerless  and  forbidding  aspect  of  this  country. 
It  is  not  destitute  of  vegetation  or  inhabitants.  In  the  valleys  are  to 
be  found  several  sorts  of  trees  of  a  large  growth,  which  are  frequented 
by  various  kinds  of  birds.  Here,  also,  a  rich  soil  of  considerable 
depth  is  clothed  with  beautiful  verdure.  At  the  base  of  almost  every 
hill  is  a  brook  of  good  water,  having  a  reddish  hue,  but  not  ill  tasted* 
I  The  Strait  of  Magellan,  at  its  eastern  entrance,  is  between  six  and 
seven  leagues  in  width,  and  has  from  fifteen  to  fifty  fathoms  of  water. 
Many  vessels  have  passed  through  this  strait  to  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
though  the  navigation  is  said  to  be  diflicult,  which  is  not  the  case. 
There  are  many  good  harbours  to  be  found  in  this  passage,  and  an- 
chorage under  either  shore,  all  the  way  through  ;  the  bottom  generally 
good  holding-ground.  Within  the  strait  the  wind  never  blows  fresh 
from  north-north-east,  round  by  the  eastward  to  south-east-by-east ; 
consequently  a  shelter  from  these  points  is  unnecessary.  Wood  and 
water  can  be  procured  with  ease,  fish  may  be  caught  in  great  abun- 
dance, and  antiscorbutic  vegetables  are  found  on  both  shores. 


May.]  STRAIT  OF  MAGELLAN.  '  g3 

^  The  rise  of  the  tide  at  the  east  entrance  is  about  sixteen  feet,  and 
about  eight  feet  at  the  west  entrance,  running  regularly  each  way,  and  not 
swifter  than  two  miles  an  hour,  excepting  in  the  narrows,  where  it  runs 
about  five  miles  an  hour.  Violent  gales  are  never  experienced  here 
from  any  quarter ;  the  passage  through  is  perfectly  safe  for  vessels  of  any 
size,  and  the  navigation  is  pleasant  and  easy.  If  the  navigator  have 
before  him  the  latest  edition  of  Arrowsmith's  chart,  he  may  avoid 
every  difficulty,  as  there  is  but  one  dangerous  impediment  in  the  whole 
passage  more  than  two  cables'  length  from  shore,  that  is  not 
readily  shown  by  the  hand-lead.  The  danger  alluded  to  lies  aboiit 
five  miles  north-east  of  the  narrows,  and  always  betrays  itself  by  the 
kelp  or  rock-weed  which  rises  from  it  above  the  surface  of  the  water. 
Vessels  must  keep  to  the  north  of  this  shoal,  and  leave  it  under  their 
larboard  quarter. 

Ships  bound  through  this  strait  may  run  day  and  night  by  keeping 
the  north  shore  on  board,  until  they  come  up  with  Indian  Sound,  and 
then  keeping  the  south  shore  on  board  until  they  reach  Cape  Pillar,  at 
the  west  entrance,  on  the  Pacific  coast.  By  following  these  direc- 
tions, they  will  have  the  advantage  of  the  prevailing  ^yinds,  and  keep 
smooth  water. 

i  On  arriving  at  Cape  Pillar,  if  the  wind  blow  from  the  westward, 
and  it  is  thought  inexpedient  to  put  to  sea,  vessels  may  come  to  an- 
chor in  a  perfectly  safe  harbour,  about  three  miles  south-east  of  the 
cape,  on  the  shore  of  Terra  del  Fuego.  The  entrance  to  this  harbour 
is  covered  by  two  small  islands,  which  may  be  passed  on  either  side, 
in  twenty  fathoms  of  water.  Then  double  a  point  which  runs  out 
from  the  land  in  a  north-east  direction,  and  enter  the  cove  behind  it, 
which  extends  to  the  south-west  and  west-north-v/est  about  two  mile&, 
and  come  to  anchor  in  from  four  to  ten  fathoms  of  water,  mud  and 
clay  bottom,  and  sheltered  from  all  winds. 

■  •    It  would  be  tedious  to  the  reader,  as  well  as  to  myself,  to  enumerate 
and  name  all  the  safe  and  commodious  harbours  in  this  noble  strait;. 
Let  it  suffice,  that  there  is  such  a  one  every  five  or  ten  miles,  or  equally 
safe  anchorage  for  ships  of  any  size.  * 

IMagellan's  Strait  is  about  three  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles  in 
length,  from  its  eastern  entrance  on  the  Atlantic  coast  to  its  western 
entrance  on  the  Pacific  coast.  But  let  it  not  be  inferred  from  this  that 
the  continent  in  this  vicinity  is  of  that  extent  from  one  ocean  to  the 
other,  as  the  course  of  the  strait  forms  two  sides  of  a  nearly  right* 
angled  triangle ;  a  third  side  would  measure  the  distance  across  this 
part  of  the  continent ;  say  one  hundred  and  ninety  miles.  Terra  del 
Fuego,  from  east  to  west  along  the  south  shore  of  the  strait,  is  about 
three  hundred  and  sixty  miles  in  length,  and  about  one  hundred  and 
sixty  in  breadth,  from  north  to  south,  measuring  from  Cape  Horn  to 
the  strait.  This  part  of  the  country  contains  a  large  population, 
especially  in  the  vicinity  of  the  strait. 

Before  I  proceed  any  further  into  the  strait,  it  may  be  proper  to  give 
the  reader  some,  idea  of  the  face  of  the  country,  as  the  eastern  and 
western  parts  are  very  different  from  each  other,  not  only  in  their 

F2 


84  CAPE  NEGRO— PORT  FAMINE.  [1823. 

aspect,  but  also  in  natural  productions,  as  well  as  in  the  appearance 
and  character  of  the  natives. 

I  have  not  the  least  doubt  that  the  Cordilleras,  or  chain  of  the  An- 
des, once  extended  in  an  unbroken  range  to  Cape  Horn,  and  perhaps 
still  farther  south ;  and  that  earthquakes,  eruptions  of  volcanoes,  or 
some  other  convulsion  of  nature,  have  broken  the  chain,  and  thus 
separated  Terra  del  Fuego  from  the  continent ;  at  the  same  time 
shattering  the  former  into  several  smaller  pieces  of  irregular  shape. 
I  am  led  to  this  opinion  by  the  exact  correspondence  which  exists  in 
the  aspect  of  the  country  on  both  sides  the  strait. 

At  the  eastern  entrance,  the  land  is  low  on  both  sides.  The  island 
formed  by  St.  Sebastian's  channel,  on  the  left  or  south  side  of  the 
passage,  is  a  wide  rolling  prairie — an  extensive  field  of  low  land.  The 
land  on  the  right  or  north  side  is  of  a  similar  character,  and  continues 
so  through  the  whole  extent  of  Patagonia ;  which  is,  comparatively 
a  long  strip  -of  meadow,  stretching  itself  at  the  base  of  the  Andes,  and 
fringing  the  margin  of  the  sea. 

Thus  from  Cape  Negro,  where  we  were  now  lying  at  anchor,  to 
the  Atlantic,  the  land  is  low,  undulating,  and  destitute  of  trees ;  while 
westward  to  the  Pacific,  it  wears  a  very  different  aspect.  Here  j.he 
country  begins  to  rise  in  broken  ridges,  which  finally  become  rugged 
mountains  ;  being  evidently  but  smaller  links  of  the  vast  Andean  chain  ; 
of  which  Cape  Froward  appears  to  be  the  point  of  fracture,  reduced 
by  attrition  to  an  ordinaiy  elevation.  The  sides  of  these  mountains 
are  covered  with  ancient  forests,  while  the  verdant  bottom  lands  abound 
with  shrubbery,  grass,  and  plants  of  various  descriptions. 

May  Zd. — On  Saturday  morning,  being  at  anchor  in  the  harbour  of 
Cape  Negro,  at  four  o'clock,  A.  I\I.,  we  saw  many  of  the  Patagoniaii 
natives  on  the  beach  abreast  of  the  vessel,  making  signs  for  the  boats 
to  come  on  shore.  At  five,  A.  M.,  we  were  making  preparations  to 
land,  when  a  man  at  the  mast-head  discovered  about  two  hundred  of 
the  natives  on  horseback,  in  a  small  valley,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  the  beach.  On  being  apprized  of  this  fact,  we  declined  going  on 
shore ;  and  at  six,  A.  iM.,  got  under  way,  and  steered  to  the  south  for 
Port  Famine.  I 

As  soon  as  the  savages  perceived  that  we  were  bound  to  the  south, 
they  all  showed  themselves  ;  being  about  two  hundred  horsemen,  armed 
with  long  spears  and  bows  and  arrows,  with  a  drove  of  about  four 
hundred  guanacoes.  But  being  now  under  full  sail,  with  a  smart 
breeze  from  the  west,  I  thought  it  inexpedient  to  alter  om*  course  for 
the  sake  of  holding  any  intercourse  with  these  copper-coloured  stran- 
gers. If  they  desired  an  interview,  they  might  easily  follow  us  along 
shore  to  Port  Famine,  a -distance  of  about  fifty  miles.  We  therefore 
left  them  to  their  own  reflections,  and  kept  on  our  course.  At  four,  P. 
M.,  we  came  to  anchor  at  Port  Famme,  in  five  fathoms  of  water, 
muddy  bottom.  j 

!  A  brief  history  of  this  place  will  account  for  its  present  meager 
name.  In  the  year  1551,  the  Spaniards  selected  the  spot  for  the 
establishment  of  a  colony,  and  brought  hither  about  four  hundred  per- 
sons of  both  sexes  to  commence  it.    A  fortress  was  soon  erected  to 


May.]  PORT  FAxMLNE.  85 

protect  the  new  colonists  from  the  neighbouring  savages,  and  a  small 
town  built  for  the  families  of  the  Spanish  emigrants.  This  infant  set- 
tlement, which  was  called  Philipville,  in  honour  of  the  then  reigning  * 
monarch  of  Spain,  was  intended  to  command  this  passage  to  the  Pacific, 
and  their  valuable  possessions  on  the  western  coast  of  the  continent ; 
a  passage  rotmd  Cape  Horn  not  being  known  at  that  period.  The  site 
was  judiciously  selected,  being  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles 
from  the  eastern  entrance  of  the  strait,  having  a  good  harbour,  with  a 
back  country  susceptible  of  much  improvement.  Had  not  the  inviting 
riches  of  Peru,  Mexico,  and  the  West  Indies  diverted  the  attention  of  the 
Spanish  government  from  this  project,  it  could  not  have  failed  of  suc- 
cess, and  none  but  Spanish  ships  would  have  been  permitted  to  pass 
the  strait  without  paying  for  the  privilege. 

i  Here  these  unfortunate  settlers  were  left,  without  a  sufficient  stock 
of  provisions  to  sustain  them,  until  the  land  could  be  prepared  and 
crops  produced  by  labour  and  perseverance.  Spaniards  are  pro- 
verbially indolent,  and  are  seldom  willing  to  work,  until  driven  to  it  by 
necessity.  Expecting  to  be  regularly  supplied  from  the  mother  country', 
they  probably  did  not  exert  their  faculties  much  to  provide  for  the 
future.  Had  they  been  such  men  as  are  daily  emigrating  from  the 
New-England  states  to  our  western  wilderness,  so  far  from  suffering 
from  famine,  they  would  in  a  few  years  have  converted  this  region  of 
Patagonia  into  a  fruitful  garden,  and  Philipville  would  at  this  moment 
have  been  a  splendid  city. 

About  seven  years  after  the  establishment  of  this  colony,  it  was 
visited  by  the  celebrated  English  navigator  Cavendish,  who  entered 
the  strait  in  1587.  On  arriving  at  Philipville  he  found  the  colony 
aimihilated,  only  one  individual  out  of  the  original  four  hundred  being 
left  alive  !  All  had  perished  by  famine,  except  twenty-three  ;  who,  to 
avoid  such  a  horrible  fate,  had  undertaken  to  explore  their  way  through 
the  wilderness  to  Rio  de  la  Plata ;  and  no  doubt  fell  victims  to  the 
savage  ferocity  of  the  natives,  as  they  were  never  again  heard  of.  To 
perpetuate  the  sad  fate  of  this  colony.  Cavendish  called  the  place 
Port  Famine,  and  took  the  unhappy  survivor  to  England. 

In  this  harbour,  or  rather  in  this  fine  capacious  bay,  twenty  ships 
of  the  line  might  be  moored  in  perfect  safety,  and  supply  themselves 
with  wood  and  water  with  very  little  trouble.  The  bay  abounds  with 
fish  of  various  kinds,  and  a  plenty  of  birds  may  be  had  at  the  expense 
of  a  little  powder  and  shot.  By  this  means,  during  our  whole  passage 
through  the  strait,  our  table  was  daily  furnished  with  a  tempting 
variety ;  such  as  geese,  duck,  teal,  snipes,  plovers,  race-horses,  &c. 
embellished  with  wild  celery,  which  may  be  gathered  in  any  quantities. 
The  banks  of  Ledger  River,  which  empties  into  this  bay,  abreast  of  the 
anchorage,  are  covered  with  trees  of  various  kinds,  and  the  finest  that 
I  ever  saw.  Here  are  white-oak,  red-oak,  beech,  and  a  sort  of  bastard 
cedar,  which,  in  my  opinion,  would  make  the  finest  masts  for  line-of- 
battle  ships  that  have  ever  yet  been  stepped  in  a  kelson.  Some  of 
them  are  of  great  height,  varj'ing  from  five  to  seven  feet  in  diameter. 

In  a  subsequent  voyage,  I  explored  this  river  for  about  twenty-five 
miles  from  its  mouth,  and  found  the  country  on  both  sides  extremely 


86  EXCURSION  INTO  THE  INTERIOR.  [1823. 

fine  ;  the  soil  being  rich  and  mellow,  and  not  less  than  eighteen  inches 
in  depth.  The  valleys  are  clothed  with  luxuriant  verdure  ;  the  clover- 
iields  of  Pennsylvania,  if  suffered  to  go  a  few  seasons  unmowed, 
would  alone  furnish  a  parallel.  This  clover  was  so  completely  matted 
and  entangled  that  it  was  difficult  to  determine  its  actual  height;  but 
it  was  certainly  not  less  than  two  feet.  On  the  banks  of  the  river  are 
copper,  lead,  and  iron  ore,  of  which  I  obtained  specimens.  Some  fine 
svood  is  also  found  here,  two  kinds  of  which  I  examined.  One  was  red, 
and  the  other  a  bright  yellow ;  the  grain  of  each  very  fine. 

The  valleys  are  seldom  visited  by  the  frost  or  snow,  so  that  the  ber- 
ries are  found  on  the  bushes  all  the  winter,  without  being  touched  by 
the  frost.  There  are  some  streams  descending  to  this  river  which 
would  make  fine  mill-seats.  I  found  the  country  very  pleasant  from 
Point  Negro  to  this  place ;  undulating  in  hills  and  dales,  and  covered 
with  groves,  flowers,  clover,  and  grass  of  various  kinds.  Many  of 
the  flowers  were  not  inferior  in  beauty  or  fragrance  to  those  -which 
are  cultivated  in  our  gardens.  I  am  not,  however,  sufficiently  ac- 
quainted with  the  science  of  botany  to  describe  them.  In  short,  if 
this  land  was  in  possession  of  a  civilized  industrious  people,  who 
well  understood  the  theory  and  practice  of  agriculture,  I  have  no 
doubt  that  it  would  become,  in  a  very  few  years,  one  of  the  finest 
countries  in  the  world,  as  the  inhabitants  would  be  far  more  moral 
and  happy  than  if  every  thing  grew  spontaneously  to  their  hand.  "We 
cannot  know  the  real  value  of  any  thing  unless  we  labour  for  it.  Tiiis 
fact  converts  the  original  curse  into  the  greatest  earthly  blessing.  i 

Having  passed  through  Magellan's  Strait  six  times,  at  different 
seasons,  and  always  with  sufficient  leisure  lo  examine  the  natural  pro- 
ductions of  the  country,  the  result  of  my  observations  is  a  conviction 
that  the  Spanish  navigator  Cordova  has  given  a  more  correct  descrip- 
tion of  the  plants,  trees,  and  animals  on  the  northern  border  of  the 
strait  than  any  other  writer.  But  he  did  not  sufficiently  penetrate 
into  the  interior,  w^hich  abounds  with  productions  that  are  unknown  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  shore.  It  was  my  misfortune,  however,  to  be  des- 
titute of  scientific  aid  in  all  my  researches,  or  I  am  confident  that  Cor- 
dova's catalogue  might  have  been  much  enlarged. 

We  anchored  in  the  harbour  of  Port  Famine  at  four  o'clock,  P.  M., 
in" the  afternoon  of  Saturday,  the  third  of  May,  corresponding  to  the 
third  of  our  November — a  month  distinguished  in  the  United  States  by 
a  period  of  mild,  soft,  pleasant  weather,  called  the  Indian  summer. 
The  weather  at  our  anchorage,  on  Saturday  evening,  so  forcibly  re;- 
minded  me  of  this  peculiar  period,  that  I  determined  to  make  ah 
excursion  into  the  country  in  search  of  valuable  die-woods  and  mine- 
rals, and  to  see  if  these  southern  forests  wore  the  same  variegated 
dress  in  autumn  as  distinguishes  our  own  at  that  season.  I  therefore 
selected  as  my  companions  three  M'orthy  and  intelligent  young  men, 
viz.  Messrs.  John  Simmons,  William  Cox,  and  Charles  Cox,  all  natives 
of  New-York,  where  they  are  yet  citizens. 

Having  given  the  necessary  instructions  to  my  first  officer,  and 
ascertained  that  we  were  all  well  armed  and  equipped,  we  started  on 
our  expedition  towards  the  southern  extremity  of  the  lofty  Andes.     Our 


May.]  EXCURSION  INTO  THE  INTERIOR  87 

weapons  were  muskets,  pistols,  and  cutlasses,  and  our  provisions  a 
week's  supply  of  bread,  as  we  trusted  to  our  arms  for  venison  and 
poultry  ;  and  I  had  never  known  them  to  deceive  me,  if  any  thing  came 
within  musket  or  pistol  distance.  We  took  a  west-north-west  course 
by  compass,  and  travelled  several  miles  without  seeing  such  game  as 
we  considered  worthy  the  honour  of  a  civilized  death,  by  powder  and 
ball.  Our  vigilance,  however,  began  to  sharpen  with  our  appetites  ;  so 
that  before  nine  o'clock  we  had  sufficient  fresh  meat  for  a  much  larger 
party,  having  killed  a  fine  deer  and  two  guanacoes. 

We  now  selected  our  quarters  for  the  night  on  the  bank  of  a  fresh- 
water rivulet,  where  there  was  but  very  little  underbrush  ;  but  where 
the  forest  trees  grew  to  a  great  height,  mterweaving  their  thick  and  lofty 
branches  so  closely,  that  had  there  been  a  noon-day  sun  over  our 
heads,  we  should  hardly  have  been  sensible  of  it.  While  my  com- 
panions were  employed  in  skinning  our  game,  I  was  busy  in  building 
a  fire  ;  which,  as  there  was  no  want  of  fuel,  was  soon  large  enough  to 
have  barbacued  an  ox.  A  saddle  of  one  of  the  guanacoes  was  soon 
spitted  and  suspended,  in  the  gipsy  style,  on  the  windward  side  of  our 
flaming  volcano,  where  we  contrived  to  present  every  side  to  the  in- 
fluence of  the  heat  until  it  was  fit  for  the  table.  The  fat,  of  course, 
was  mostly  wasted,  except  so  much  of  it  as  we  caught  Vvith  our  bread. 
Each  of  us  being  supplied  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  good  appetite,  it 
must  have  been  our  own  fault  if  we  did  not  enjoy  a  good  supper,  equal 
to  the  best  roast  mutton  I  ever  tasted. 

After  giving  our  dogs  a  share  of  the  supper,  and  having  piled  on 
about  two  cartloads  of  wood,  we  all  stretched  our  weary  limbs  and 
bodies  by  the  fire,  with  each  a  bunch  of  dry  autumnal  leaves  for  a 
pillow.  Thus  moored,  as  we  thought,  for  the  night,  we  soon  fell 
asleep,  each  with  one  hand  on  a  pistol,  with  as  much  composure  as  if 
we  had  been  in  bed  at  the  far  distant  homes  of  which  we  v;ere  dreaming. 

We  slept  very  soundly  until  about  midnight,  when  we  were  suddenly 
alarmed  by  the  distant  barking  of  our  dogs.  In  a  moment  every  man 
vras  on  his  feet,  with  his  firearms  in  his  hands,  primed  and  cocked. 
The  dogs  continued  to  bark,  and  the  sound  evidently  approached  nearer 
and  nearer.  A  rustling  noise  v/as  now  heard  in  the  underbrush.  Eveiy 
one  was  prepared  for  the  approaching  crisis,  with  an  undaunted  front, 
and  his  finder  on  the  tricroer  of  his  musket.  At  this  moment  of  anx- 
ious  suspense,  there  suddenly  appeared  before  us — one  of  our  dogs, 
v.itli  a  small  gray  fox  in  his  custody,  which  had  been  surprised  and 
captured  while  in  the  very  act  of  approaching  our  fire  ! 

After  caressing  and  rewarding  these  faithful  animals  for  their 
vigilance  and  fidelity,  we  again  "  addressed  ourselves  to  sleep ;"  but 
in  about  two  iiours,  we  were  again  alarmed  in  the  same  manner,  and 
with  a  like  result,  viz.  another  gray  fox.  Finding  our  repose  thus 
liable  to  be  constantly  broken,  we  concluded  to  sleep  no  more.  We 
therefore  resumed  our  journey  towards  that  stupendous  range  of  moun- 
tains Mdiich  extends  through  more  than  seventy  degrees  of  latitude,  or 
about  four  thousand  three  hundred  miles  ! 

3Ia)/  4th. — It  was  now  Sunday  morning,  and  we  still  travelled  by 
compass  in  the  direction  of  west-north-west,  as  nearly  as  we  could  lay 


$8  EXCURSION  INTO  THE  INTERIOR.  [1823. 

that  course  ;  being  often  compelled  to  deviate  from  it  by  tbe  face  of  the 
country,  interspeised  with  elevated  ridges,  watercourses,  precipices, 
6ic.  This  day's  journey,  though  fatiguing,  was  very  pleasant  and 
interesting.  Parrots,  and  other  birds  of  the  most  beautiful  plumage, 
surrounded  us  on  every  side  (several  of  a  species  which  I  have  never 
seen  in  the  museums  or  the  private  collections  of  naturalists).  I  also 
examined  various  trees,  which  I  liave  no  doubt  are  highly  valuable, 
some  for  cabinet  furniture,  and  others  for  drugs,  and  perhaps  for  die- 
stuffs.  I  regretted  extremely  that  we  had  not  a  scientific  botanist  and 
mineralogist  whh  us,  as  my  own  knowledge  of  those  sciences  is  very 
limited.  But  I  am  confident  there  is  abundance  of  valuable  wood  in  this 
unexplored  country  ;  and  the  specimens  of  copper,  lead,  and  iron  which 
I  brought  away  with  me  were  pronounced  to  be,  by  the  late  scientific 
Doctor  Miicliill,  the  purest  and  most  free  from  alloy  of  any  that  he  had 
ever  seen. 

The  interior  of  this  country,  I  also  discovered,  abounds  with  some 
very  valuable  vegetables  for  mariners  who  are  pursuing  long  voyages  ; 
such  as  celery,  scurvy-grass,  and  a  variety  of  berries  of  very  agreeable 
liavour.  To  this  circumstance  Byron  imputes  the  healthiness  of  his 
whole  ship's  company,  not  a  single  person  being  afieeted  with  the 
scurvy  in  the  slightest  degree  ;  nor  was  a  single  individual  on  the  sick- 
list  from  any  other  disorder.  Among  other  curious  trees  which  I  ex- 
amined in  this  excursion  is  the  pepper-tree,  or  winter's  bark,  noticed 
by  Commodore  Byron.  These  grow  here  in  great  plenty,  as  do  many 
others,  with  the  nature  of  which  I  am  totally  unacquainted. 

We  continued  to  proceed  in  the  same  direction  until  ten  o'clock,  P.  M., 
when  we  found  ourselves  on  the  eastern  declivity  of  a  mountain  which 
ascended  gradually  towards  the  north.  This  we  concluded  to  be  a 
part  of  the  celebrated  chain  before  mentioned,  the  Cordilleras  of  the 
Andes,  and  judged  ourselves  to  be  now  about  thirty  miles  from  the 
vessel,  and  forty-five  from  Cape  Froward.  Here  we  built  a  large  fire, 
and  made  a  hearty  supper  of  venison,  having  killed  a  fat  deer  but  a 
short  time  before.  We  then  sought  a  fev/  hours'  repose  ;  but  found  it 
almost  impossible  to  sleep,  as  the  dogs  were  engaged  the  whole  night 
among  wild  animals  of  difierent  kinds.  We  therefore  relinquished  the 
hope  of  rest,  and  at  two  hours  after  midnight,  began  to  retrace  our 
weary  steps  towards  Port  Famine. 

Mai/  Dtk. — This  was  ^Monday, the  fifth;  and  we  laboured  through 
the  underbrush  and  matted  clover  with  very  little  intermission,  in  the 
direction  of  east-south-east,  until  noon,  when  we  thought  it  expedient  to 
take  some  rest  and  refreshment.  At  two,  P.  31.,  we  again  set  forward, 
and  reached  the  schooner  in  safety  at  eleven  o'clock  the  same  evening, 
•almost  exhausted  with  fatigue  and  the  want  of  sleep.  We  brought  on 
board  with  us,  among  other  curiosities,  several  birds  we  had  shot,  of 
the  most  beautiful  plumage ;  but  which,  for  want  of  proper  preserva- 
tion, we  were  obliged  to  throw  overboard  afterward.  I  believe,  how- 
ever, that  the  richest  museum  in  the  world  might  derive  some  new  and 
valuable  acquisitions  from  the  interior  of  this  unexplored  country.  Its 
immense  resources  are  as  yet  entirely  unknown,  as  the  avenues  which 
lead  to  them  are  still  guarded  by  the  dragons  of  traditionar}''  fable. 


May.]      PHILIPVIJXE— CAFE  FROWARD— INDIAN  SOUND.        89 

May  6tli. — Having  recruited  our  strength  and  spirits  by  sleep  and 
refreshment,  we  again  went  on  shore,  and  examined  the  ancient  ruins 
of  Philipville.  During  the  day  we  also  shot  several  otters,  and  saw 
many  of  the  Fuegian  natives  on  the  opposite  shore.  We  likewise 
visited  the  fort  which  had  been  erected  to  protect  the  Spanish  colony 
from  the  natives,  and  to  command  the  strait.  It  appeared  to  be  but 
little  decayed,  considering  the  length  of  time  it  had  been  abandoned. 
This  fortress  was  built  only  eighty  years  after  the  first  discovery  of  the 
American  continent  by  Columbus  ;  and  a  very  little  labour  would  now 
restore  it  to  its  original  condition,  and  render  it  an  efiective  protection 
against  any  attacks  which  the  natives  could  make.  The  ruins  of  the 
town  bear  much  stronger  marks  of  the  withering  touch  of  time.  The 
remains  of  some  stone  edifices  are  yet  visible ;  but  the  walls  have 
generally  crumbled  into  complete  decay.  After  exarainmg  this  part 
of  the  country  to  our  satisfaction,  and  inspecting  a  number  of  wigwams 
of  a  conical  form,  which  the  natives  had  recently  deserted,  apparently 
from  fear  of  hostilities  on  our  part,  we  prepared  to  leave  Port  Famine, 
and  double  the  cape  which  forms  the  centre  angle  of  the  strait,  and 
the  most  southern  extremity  of  the  continent. 

3lay  7th. — On  Wednesday,  the  seventh,  at  five  o'clock,  A.  JVL,  we 
again  got  under  way,  and  steered  to  the  south,  with  the  wind  from 
west-north-west,  and  a  light  rain.  At  ten,  A.  M.,  we  passed  Cape  Fro- 
ward,  and  changed  our  course,  first  to  west,  then  to  west-north-west, 
which  is  tliat  of  the  strait  from  this  cape  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  In 
passing  this  angle  of  the  strait,  we  saw  many  of  the  natives  on  the 
shore,  apparently  just  landed  or  landing  from  a  fishing  excursion.  But 
no  sooner  did  they  see  our  vessel  than  they  abandoned  their  canoes, 
and  all  started  for  a  neighbouring  wood,  where  they  remained  until  we 
had  doubled  the  cape,  and  left  it  behind  oft  cur  starboard  quarter. 
These  Indians  are  a  distinct  race  from  the  Patagonians,  as  will  appear 
presently. 

This  unexpected  timidity  on  their  part  led  me  to  suspect  that  they 
had  lately  experienced  foul  play  from  some  civilized.,  Christian  naviga- 
tor, who,  conscious  of  physical  power,  had  forgotten  humanity,  and  per- 
haps justice.  I  therefore  came  to  the  resolution  of  opening  an  inter- 
course with  the  next  tribe  I  fell  in  with  ;  and,  if  possible,  of  inspiring 
them  with  confidence  towards  foreigners  and  strangers. 

May  Sth. — On  Thursday,  the  eighth,  we  continued  our  course' to- 
wards the  Pacific,  nearly  in  a  west-north-west  direction,  passing  York 
Road  and  some  very  picturesque  scenery  on  the  northern  shore,  re- 
sembling the  Highlands  of  the  Hudson.  At  eleven  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we 
came  to  anchor  at  the  mouth  of  Indian  Sound,  where  a  vast  number  of 
the  natives  were  fishing  by  torch-light.  From  attendant  circumstances 
I  concluded  that  we  were  now  near  the  location  of  an  extensive  tribe. 
In  order  that  we  miglit  not  alarm  them,  I  had  the  vessel  moored  with 
as  little  noise  as  possible,  while  the  binacle-lights  were  promptly  ex- 
tinguished. We  had  anchored  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  with  clay 
bottom,  and  with  such  precaution  that  the  natives  continued  their  voca- 
tion, totally  unconscious  of  our  proximity,  until  after  midnight.  Our 
watch  on  deck  consisted  of  one-half  the   crew  at  a  time,  every  man 


90  VISIT  TO  AX  INDIAN  VILLAGE.  [1823. 

well  armed  ami  prepared  for  any  contingency  ;  but  with  orders  never 
to  act,  except  on  the  defensive. 

At  four  o'clock,  A.  M.,  I  ordered  the  boats  to  be  lowered,  manned, 
and  armed.  In  a  few  minutes  afterward  we  started  for  the  Indian 
village  within  the  sound.  After  pulling  round  the  point  which  covers 
its  entrance,  and  opening  a  beautiful  valley,  we  discovered  the  village 
within  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  of  the  boats.  In  a  moment  after, 
we  saw  about  four  hundred  dogs  rushing  towards  us,  wliile  the  natives 
were  seen  flying  from  their  huts,  men,  women,  and  children,  apparently 
in  a  paroxysm  of  alarm. 

As  my  object  was  to  conciliate  this  inofl^ensive  people,  we  paused  in 
our  progress,  and  lay  ofi'  on  our  oars ;  making  amicable  signs  for  the 
natives  to  lay  down  their  weapons,  bows  and  arrows,  which  they  did 
without  hesitation.  I  then  pulled  in  to  the  shore,  and  landed  a  short 
distance  from  the  Indians ;  and  by  signs  invited  six  of  them  to  meet 
me.  This  they  also  did,  with  evident  willingness.  After  giving  them 
a  friendly  and  even  cordial  reception,  which  inspired  them  with  re- 
newed conlidence,  I  invited  them  to  enter  one  of  my  boats,  while  I 
advanced  and  saluted  their  friends.  This  request  they  complied  with, 
but  with  some  reluctance  ;  when  I  ordered  the  boats  to  haul  off,  and  lay 
about  the  fourth  of  a  mile  from  the  shore. 

Having  thus  secured  a  sufficient  number  of  hostages  for  my  personal 
safety,  I  advanced  along  the  beach  to  have  an  interview  with  the  whole 
tribe,  consisting  of  about  two  thousand,  of  both  sexes  and  all  ages,  by 
whom  I  was  received  in  the  most  amicable  manner.  They  took  me 
to  their  wigwams,  and  showed  me  every  mark  of  hospitality  in  their 
power.  I  remained  on  shore  with  them  about  two  hours  ;  a  part  of 
which  time  I  spent  in  examining  their  habitations  and  mode  of  living, 
and  the  remainder  in  shooting  birds  at  some  distance  in  the  woods. 

At  length  the  natives  began  to  evince  some  symptoms  of  uneasiness  - 
respecting  the  fate  of  their  friends  and  countrymen  in  my  boat.  On 
perceiving  this,  I  promptly  repaired  to  the  shore,  and  ordered  the  boat 
to  pull  in.  The  moment  she  reached  the  beach  the  six  Indians  leaped 
on  shore,  apparently  rejoicing  at  their  safe  deliverance.  I  then  entered 
the  boat,  and  invited  the  one  whom  I  supposed  to  be  the  chief  of  the 
tribe  to  accompany  me  to  the  vessel.  To  this  proposition,  however, 
he  would  not  accede,  until  I  ordered  one  of  my  men  to  jump  on  shore, 
and  run  up  to  the  village,  to  show  them  how  much  we  relied  on  their 
fidelity.  On  seeing  this,  the  chief  instantly  appreciated  the  motive, 
and  stepped  into  the  boat,  with  a  confidence  that  bespoke  intellect  and 
feeling.  In  a  few  minutes  we  were  on  board  the  Wasp,  where  we 
found  a  warm  breakfast  prepared,  awaiting  the  return  of  the  boats. 

This  chief  appeared  to  be  a  man  of  amiable  disposition,  and  con- 
siderable mind,  the  evidences  of  which  were  legibly  written  in  his 
countenance.  As  soon  as  he  found  himself  on  the  deck  of  the  schooner, 
he  looked  around  him  with  an  expression  of  strong  curiosity,  not  un- 
mingled  with  surprise,  and  in  some  instances  astonishment.  These 
sentiments  were  still  more  forcibly  expressed  when  I  conducted  him  to 
the  cabin,  and  invited  him  to  take  a  seat  at  the  breakfast  table.  He 
examined  every  thing  as  if  he  wished  to  become  acquainted  with  its 


jVIay.]  FRIENDLY  INTERCOURSE.  91 

nature,  principles,  causes,  and  effects  ;  so  that  I  set  him  down  for  an 
Indian  philosopher.  He  seemed  to  combine  the  spirit  of  deep  investiga- 
tion with  the  childish  simplicity  of  the  untutored  Indian. 

At  table  he  evinced  a  degree  of  diffidence,  and  even  delicacy,  which 
is  not  common  in  the  savage  character.  He  seemed  to  relish  our  food, 
however,  and  showed  a  particular  partiality  for  molasses  and  sugar. 
After  breakfast  we  took  him  on  shore,  and  restored  him  to  his  anxious 
family  and  subjects,  who  received  him  with  the  loudest  demonstrations 
of  pleasure. 

May  9th. — This  afternoon  we  were  visited  by  a  great  number  of  the 
natives  in  canoes.  As  soon  as  they  had  approached  within  hearing, 
they  commenced  singing  in  a  plaintive  strain,  accompanied  with  a  va- 
riety of  gestiu'es,  which  I  afterward  learned  were  symbolical  tokens 
of  friendship.  When  they  had  come  within  a  few  yards  of  the  vessel 
they  ceased  paddlmg,  and  appeared  to  be  waiting  for  some  encourage- 
ment to  advance.  I  therefore  made  signs  for  them  to  come  on  board. 
These  signs  were  either  misconstrued  or  else  they  wanted  more  time 
to  examine  the  exterior  of  the  schooner  before  they  ventured  on  board. 
From  their  manoeuvres,  inspection,  gestures,  and  consultations,  it  ap- 
peared to  me  as  if  they  were  doubtful  v/hether  the  Wasp  was  actually 
a  big  canoe  or  a  monster  of  the  deep. 

After  paddling  round  the  vessel,  and  critically  examining  her  fore 
and  aft,  some  of  them  approached  her  on  the  larboard  side,  and  two 
of  the  men  at  length  ventured  to  come  on  board.  I  received  them  in 
the  most  friendly  manner,  and  invited  them  to  partake  of  such  provi- 
sions as  we  had  at  hand — beef,  pork,  potatoes,  and  bread,  to  which  I 
helped  them  plentifully.  They  readily  partook  of  the  beef,  and  ap- 
peared so  extravagantly  fond  of  the  potatoes  that  I  regretted  I  had  not 
a  larger  supply,  having  only  a  limited  quantity  on  board  as  a  prevent- 
ive of  the  scurvy.  The  pork  they  promptly  rejected,  and  scarcely 
tasted  of  the  bread.  This  circumstance  might  lend  some  support  to  an 
hypothesis  lately  advanced,  and  sustained  with  considerable  ability,  that 
the  aborigines  of  America  are  descendants  of  the  lost  tribes  of  Israel. 

As  many  of  their  canoes  were  now  alongside  I  distributed  food  and 
some  trifling  presents  to  all  of  them.  As  they  appeared  to  set  a  pe- 
culiar value  on  scraps  of  iron,  or  any  article  made  of  that  material,  I 
contrived  to  supply  every  one  with  a  piece  of  an  old  hoop,  a  broken 
hinge,  a  crooked  pump-bolt,  or  a  rusty  spike ;  while  to  the  females  I 
gave  each  a  string  of  beads.  They  seemed  much  delighted  with  my 
apparent  Jiberality,  and  frequently  pointed  upwards  as  they  mumbled 
over  a  few  unintelligible  words,  among  which  I  could  distinguish  one 
which  sounded  like  Setedos^  which  I  afterward  understood  to  signify 
the  Deity. 

Previous  to  their  departure,  the  chief,  whose  name  was  Cheleule, 
made  a  short  speech  to  his  subjects,  wdio  immediately  responded  to  it 
in  a  kind  of  chorus,  or  devotional  anthem,  in  which  they  often  repeated 
the  word  Setedos,  at  the  same  time  pointing  to  heaven  with  much  ap- 
parent awe  and  reverence.  When  this  ceremony  was  finished  they  all 
paddled  for  the  shore,  and  repaired  to  their  wigwams  in  the  village, 
which  was  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  vessel. 


92  EXCURSION  UP  INDIAN  SOUND.  [1828. 

May  10th. — This  day  about  fifteen  hundred  of  the  natives  came 
alongside,  men,  women,  and  children  ;  and  now  that  they  had  acquired 
confidence  in  our  amicable  intentions,  they  became  amusing  and  interest- 
ing. I  permitted  them  all  to  come  on  board  by  turns,  and  partake  of 
that  hospitality  which  had  so  delighted  their  friends  tlie  preceding  day. 
Previous  to  their  departure  I  succeeded  in  making  Cheleule  understand 
that  I  was  going  up  to  the  head  of  the  sound  whh  two  boats  on  the 
following  morning,  in  search  of  die-woods  ;  and  wished  him,  with  three 
or  four  of  his  tribe,  to  accompany  me.  To  this  proposition  he  readily 
assented,  and  took  his  leave. 

3Ia}/  1 1  th. — This  morning  our  boats  were  lowered,  and  prepared  for 
a  week's  cruise.  A  brass  swivel  with  plenty  of  ammunition  was  placed 
in  each  of  them,  together  with  a  due  number  of  muskets,  pistols,  and 
lances.  I  selected  ten  men  for  our  contemplated  excursion,  who  were 
armed  with  cutlasses.  When  every  thing  was  ready,  my  first  officer 
having  received  his  instructions  respecting  his  deportment  to  the  na- 
tives during  our  absence,  we  left  the  vessel  and  pulled  for  the  village. 
The  chief,  Cheleule,  was  awaiting  our  arrival  on  the  beach  with  four 
of  his  people  :  I  immediately  requested  him  to  leave  orders  with  his 
tribe  for  no  one  to  go  ofi'  to  the  vessel  until  we  returned.  With  this  re- 
quest he  readily  complied,  and  his  orders  were  strictly  obeyed,  for  not 
a  single  canoe  approached  the  Wasp  during  our  absence. 

Having  received  these  honest  savages  on  board  our  boats,  we  put  on 
the  sails,  and  at  5,  A..  M.,  steered  for  the  head  of  the  sound,  m  a  west- 
north-west  direction,  with  the  wind  from  south-west,  and  clear  weather. 
Although  we  passed  along  the  shore  very  rapidly,  I  was  enabled  to  per- 
ceive that  the  soil  was  rich,  and  the  country  very  fine.  The  farther 
we  advanced  up  the  lagoon  the  heavier  we  found  the  timber,  and  the 
thicker  the  grass.  In  fact,  the  more  I  saw  of  this  part  of  the  conti- 
nent the  better  I  liked  it,  and  the  firmer  became  my  conviction  that 
th^re  are  few  finer  countries  in  the  world. 

At  12  o'clock  we  partook  of  a  cold  dinner  with  excellent  appetites  ; 
and  as  we  had  now  a  leading  wind,  and  were  going  at  the  rate  of  about 
seven  miles  an  hour,  I  concluded  not  to  stop  until  night,  as  there  were 
no  indications  of  the  head  of  the  bay  being  near  at  hand.  In  the 
evening  my  savage  friend  Cheleule  informed  me  that  a  very  largo  tribe 
of  natives  was  located  about  ten  miles  farther ;  and  therefore  he 
thought  it  would  be  best  to  land  at  a  spot  he  pointed  out,  and  encamp 
for  the  night.  I  immediately  adopted  the  suggestion,  and  steered  "  for 
the  point  proposed." 

At  9,  P.  M.,  we  landed  in  a  beautiful  valley,  covered  with  verdure,  and 
interspersed  with  groves,  meadows,  and  other  rural  scenery  of  the 
most  picturesque  description.  I  judged  that  we  were  now  about  eighty 
miles  from  the  vessel ;  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Cordilleras  was 
far  to  the  eastward  of  us,  and  other  indications  bore  testimony  that  we 
were  fanned  by  airs  from  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

It  being  low  water  when  we  landed,  we  found  an  abundance  of  mus- 
cles and  clams,  and  caught  about  two  hundred  fine  mullet  at  the  mouth 
of  a  small  fresh-water  river  a  few  rods  from  the  boats.  Our  four  na- 
tives soon  had  a  fire  kindled,  while  the  sailors  were  employed  in  fell- 


May.]  EXCURSION  UP  THE  RIVER  CAPAC.  93 

ing  some  red-wood  trees,  they  being  the  best  fuel-timber  that  grows. 
The  heat  it  produced  was  so  intense  that  we  could  scarcely  approach 
the  fire  near  enough  to  cook  our  suppers,  which  was  done  by  boiling 
about  two  barrels  of  clams  and  muscles,  and  frying  a  quantity  of  the 
mullet. 

About  11,  P.  M.,  we  all  turned  in,  or,  more  correctly,  Idiydoicn  by  the 
fire,  keeping  one  man  on  the  look-out  through  the  night.  At  daylight 
I  was  awakened  by  Cheleule,  who  gave  me  to  understand  that  it  was 
time  to  be  moving.  Every  man  was  soon  on  his  feet,  when  we  foimd 
a  warm  breakfast  ready  prepared  for  us  by  the  sailor  who  had  the  morn- 
ing watch.  As  soon  as  this  agreeable  duty  had  been  properly  per- 
formed, we  re-embarked  in  our  boats,  and  again  proceeded  on  om*  north- 
westerly course. 

3Iai/  I2th. — At  11,  A.  M.,  we  had  arrived  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  or 
salt-water  lagoon,  and  were  now  about  one  hundred  miles  from  the  ves- 
sel, on  nearly  a  west-by-north  course  for  eighty  miles,  and  north-west- 
by-west  for  twenty  miles.  Here  we  found  a  tribe  of  Indians  compris- 
ing about  four  thousand  souls,  men,  women,  and  children,  in  a  village 
situated  in  a  very  extensive  valley  on  the  west  bank  of  a  river  called 
by  the  natives  Capac.  This  river  extends  into  the  country  about  sev- 
enty-five miles  in  a  northerly  direction,  and  i^  was  my  intention  to  as- 
cend it  as  far  as  practicable,  in  search  of  die-woods. 

We  were  favourably  received  and  hospitably  treated  by  the  chief 
and  people  of  this  powerful  tribe  of  natives,  and  as  soon  as  the  usual 
ceremonies  of  introduction  were  over,  Cheleule  prevailed  on  the  chief, 
whose  name  was  Calexchem,  to  accompany  us  up  the  river ;  he  ac- 
cordingly took  a  seat  in  my  boat,  and  at  1,  P.  M.,  we  were  all  ready  for 
a  start,  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  south-south-west,  attended  with  a 
light  rain.  As  we  proceeded  we  carefully  examined  both  banks  of  the 
river  for  the  purpose  of  finding  die-stuffs. 

After  ascending  this  river  about  twenty  miles,  against  a  strong  freshet, 
we  landed  at  7,  P.  M.,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  up  our  lodgings  for 
the  night  in  the  skirts  of  a  pleasant  valley  which  extended  to  the  river. 
Here  we  pitched  our  tent — fire  and  supper  followed  in  the  usual  style 
of  exploring  parties  ;  after  which  each  man  gathered  from  the  trees  as 
much  moss  as  would  serve  for  a  pillow,  and  then  stretched  himself  by 
the  fire,  on  which  we  had  placed  a  plenty  of  fuel,  to  keep  the  tenants 
of  the  forest  at  a  respectful  distance. 

About  daylight  we  were  alarmed  by  the  roaring  of  some  wild  beast, 
which  the  natives  called  faiche-ani,  and  which  we  afterward  discov- 
ered was  the  South  American  lion.  After  daylight  we  saw  many 
droves  of  giianacoes  and  deer ;  and  by  8,  A.  M.,  we  had  shot  seven  gray 
foxes  and  four  deer,  the  flesh  of  which  was  not  unacceptable  after  our 
previous  lent  on  clams  and  mullet.  AVe  now  resumed  our  search  for  die- 
woods,  but  could  discover  nothing  but  inferior  kinds  of  fustic  and  red- 
wood, some  specimens  of  which  I  caused  to  be  conveyed  to  the  boats. 

May  IStli. — At  9,  A.  M.,  being  convinced  that  any  further  attempts 
to  discover  valuable  die-woods  on  the  banks  of  this  river  would  prove 
fruitless,  we  gave  up  the  pursuit,  and  embarked  in  our  boats  to  return  to 
ehe  vessel.     We  descended  the  river  leisurely,  gliding  down  with  the 


94  \  RETURN  TO  THE  WASP.  [1823. 

current,  and  stopping  occasionally  in  some  beautiful  valley  or  varie- 
gated grove,  to  shoot  foxes,  birds,  and  deer.  We  arrived  at  Calex- 
chem's  village  at  about  seven  in  the  evening  ;  and,  after  landing  the  old 
chief,  with  many  thanks  and  some  trifling  presents,  we  proceeded 
about  ten  miles  down  the  bay ;  when  at  10,  P.  iM.,  we  landed  near  the 
mouth  of  a  fresh-water  river  on  the  north  shore. 

After  cooking  part  of  our  venison,  and  making  some  bread  coffee, 
we  all  partook  of  a  hearty  supper.  As  it  was  now  raining  severely, 
we  were  obliged  to  pitch  our  tent,  which  was  never  done  in  fair 
weather.  About  midnight  the  watch  was  set,  and  the  rest  turned  in, 
soon  forgetting  their  fatigues  and  wet  jackets  in  dreams  of  home,  and 
those  rural  scenes  which  smiling  INIay  was  at  this  moment  decorating 
in  all  the  charms  of  nature,  at  the  distance  of  six  thousand  miles  from 
the  sleepers. 

3Iai/  I4:th. — At  daylight  I  found  the  wind  blowing  a  strong  breeze 
from  the  south-east,  and  as  we  could  make  but  little  headway  in  pull- 
ing to  windward  with  the  tide  against  us,  I  ordered  the  men  to  prepare 
themselves  for  hunting ;  and  after  breakfast  we  all  started  in  pursuit  of 
game  of  any  kind  that  could  be  found.  It  was  5,  P.  M.,  when  we  re- 
turned, having  strayed  many  miles  into  the  countiy  ;  and  the  result  of 
our  sport  was  five  deer,  three  foxes,  and  a  number  of  birds  of  differ- 
ent kinds.  During  this  excursion  I  paid  more  attention  to  the  qualities 
of  timber  than  to  the  duties  of  a  sportsman.  I  found  the  same  kinds 
of  trees  here  that  I  examined  at  Port  Famine,  and  the  wild-celery, 
scurvy-grass.  Sic.  were  shooting  into  seed  in  almost  every  direction. 
What  marks  of  Divine  wisdom  are  to  be  seen  in  every  thing  !  The 
bane  and  antidote,  if  not  placed  side  by  side,  are  generally  found 
within  hailing  distance.  High  southern  latitudes  are  thought  to  pro- 
duce the  scurvy  on  board  of  ships,  and  the  same  latitudes  produce 
on  land  the  best  possible  antidotes  to  the  disease,  in  the  greatest 
abundance. 

Our  sportsmen  were  all  fatigued  and  hungry,  and  therefore  enjoyed 
a  good  supper  and  a  night's  repose  with  the  greater  zest.  At  2,  A.  M., 
I  found  that  the  wind  had  changed  to  the  westward,  and  produced  fair 
weather ;  I  therefore  called  upon  all  hands  to  turn  out,  and  prepare  for 
a  cruise  towards  the  entrance  of  the  sound. 

•  il/«y  15^A. — At  3,  A.  M.,  the  tent  was  struck,  the  remainder  of  our 
game  put  on  board  the  boats,  and  every  thing  in  readiness  for  a  start. 
We  passed  do^vn  the  north  shore  with  a  gentle  breeze  from  the  west- 
ward, frequently  landing  in  some  charming  valley  or  waving  forest,  to 
enjoy  the  scene  and  search  for  die-woods,  but  always  without  success. 
We  reached  the  Wasp  at  9,  P.  M.,  finding  every  thing  in  the  same  order 
as  when  we  left  it.  I  kept  our  friend  Cheleule  and  his  companions  on 
board  during  the  night ;  and  the  next  morning,  after  giving  them  a  good 
breakfast,  and  many  little  presents  of  high  value  in  their  estimation,  I 
set  them  on  shore  at  8,  A.  M.,  where  Cheleule  was  received  by^his 
people  with  the  strongest  demonstrations  of  joy.  On  taking  leave  of 
the  old  chief  I  expressed  a  wish  to  take  one  of  his  sons  with  me  to  the 
United  States,  promising  to  bring  him  back  again  in  about  two  years. 
The  father  consented  without  hesitation,  and  presented  me  one  of  his 


May.]  NATIVES  OF  MAGELLAN'S  STRAIT.  95 

boys  on  the  spot,  who  seemed  much  rejoiced  on  the  occasion,  and 
after  receiving  the  farewell  embraces  of  his  parents,  went  on  board 
•with  the  most  cheerfid  alacrhy.  I  immediately  had  him  clothed,  and 
he  expressed  much  satisfaction  in  being  placed  mider  my  care  and 
protection.  1 

It  being  now  calm,  we  could  not  get  under  way,  and  the  consequence 
was  that  we  had  a  great  number  of  visiters  to  see  and  take  leave  of 
my  young  savage  protege.  This  appeared  to  affect  him,  and  he  evinced 
more  sensibility  on  the  occasion  than  I  had  amicipated,  as  the  savage 
character  has  never  been  distinguished  for  a  vivid  expression  of  feeling. 

May  I6th. — At  7,  A.M.,  a  light  breeze  sprang  up  from  the  west- 
south-west,  when  w^e  immediately  got  under  way,  and  commenced  ply- 
ing to  the  south-west,  to  get  hold  of  the  Fuegian  shore.  Before  we 
had  proceeded  far,  the  mother  of  yomig  Cheleule  came  alongside  to 
take  a  final  leave  of  her  darling  boy.  This  was  too  much  for  the  poor 
fellow  :  he  burst  into  a  paroxysm  of  tears  as  soon  as  his  mother  left 
the  vessel,  and  earnestly  begged  me  to  let  him  go  on  shore  with  her. 
Perceiving  this  to  be  the  wish  of  both,  and  that  they  were  much  af- 
fected, I  recalled  the  old  woman,  and  restored  her  son  to  her,  which 
rendered  both  of  them  extremely  happy.  As  a  testimony  of  his  grati- 
tude the  youth  begged  me  to  accept  of  his  dog,  which  he  set  great 
store  by,  it  being  a  present  from  his  father.  This  dog  was  remarkable 
for  his  cunning  and  sagacity,  resembling  a  fox  both  in  form  and  dispo- 
sition. The  head,  in  particular,  bespeaks  its  relationship  to  that  animal. 
It  is  a  litde  larger  than  our  terrier,  and  is  the  only  canine  breed  that  I 
saw  among  these  natives. 

The  dress  of  this  people,  which  is  the  same  in  both  sexes,  is  formed  of 
the  skins  of  the  sea-otter,  guanaco,  fox,  deer,  or  seal,  sewed  together  with 
the  animal's  sinews,  entrails,  or  thongs  cut  from  the  skins,  m  the  form 
of  a  blanket.  This  is  thrown  over  the  shoulders,  and  tied  under  the  chin ; 
the  lower  part  being  wrapped  round  the  body  like  a  cloak.  Both  sexes 
paint  their  faces  in  such  a  maimer  as  to  give  them  a  hideous  expres- 
sion, and  yet  I  scarcely  saw  two  of  them  alike.  Some  were  painted  red, 
with  a  large  black  circle  round  each  eye  ;  others  were  distinguished  by 
horizontal  streaks  across  the  face  of  alternate  black  and  white.  -■-  How- 
ever grotesque  they  appeared  to  us,  they  evidently  prided  themselves 
on  this  display  of  fashion  and  taste.  Every  one  of  them  with  whom  I 
had  any  intercourse,  was  as  ready  to  give  as  to  receive  trifling  presents, 
if  I  expressed  a  wish  to  that  effect.  From  these  mutual  kindnesses, 
however,  they  very  soon  caught  the  idea  of  quid  pro  quo,  and  became 
adepts  in  the  science  of  trade.  But  I  never  detected  one  of  them  in 
the  act  of  stealing  to  the  value  of  a  nail,  either  from  the  vessel  or  the 
boats ;  nor  did  I  see  or  hear  of  a  single  quarrel  or  contention  among 
themselves. 

'  Their  canoes  display  much  ingenuity  and  mechanical  contrivance. 
They  are  constructed  of  bark  peeled  from  the  entire  trunk  of  a  large 
tree  resembling  our  white  birch,  which  grows  here  in  great  abundance. 
Three  such  pieces  will  form  an  entire  canoe,  from  twelve  to  eighteen 
feet  in  length,  two  feet  in  de])th,  and  two  feet  six  inches  in  breadth  at 
the  centre,  or  widest  part.     One  piece  forms  the  bottom,  and  two  the 


96  NATIVES  OF  MAGELLAN'S  STRAIT.  [1823. 

sides,  neatly  sewed  together  with  leather  thongs  or  the  sinews  of 
animals.  The  ribs  are  generally  made  of  slender  branches  or  saplings, 
split  in  the  centre  as  coopers  do  their  hoop-poles.  These  are  bent 
into  a  semicircle  with  the  flat  side  outwards,  and  fastened  to  the  inside 
of  the  canoe,  which  is  thus  kept  distended  to  its  proper  shape,  and 
rendered  sufficiently  strong.  The  gunwales  are  formed  of  the  same 
material,  sewed  on  in  the  same  manner. 

Each  of  these  boats  is  commonly  divided  into  six  distinct  compart- 
ments :  viz.  the  first  contains  their  fishing  tackle  and  apparatus ;  the 
second  is  occupied  by  the  women,  who  handle  the  forward  paddles ; 
the  third  is  their  fireplace,  having  a  hearth  of  sand;'  the  fourth  is  the 
well-room,  or  place  for  bailing ;  the  fifth  contains  the  men,  who  ply  the 
stern  paddles  ;  and  the  sixth  is  the  place  where  their  spears,  bows  and 
arrows,  &c.  are  carefully  deposited.  In  the  management  of  these  frail 
barks,  skill  and  dexterity  are  more  requisite  than  physical  strength ; 
and  yet  they  are  made  to  ply  to  windward  at  a  surprising  rate.  Some 
of  them  are  made  more  square,  but  are  not  so  easily  managed,  nor  do 
they  move  so  swiftly. 

Besides  the  weapons  already  mentioned,  the  sling  is  much  used  by 
this  people,  and  with  such  effect,  that  the  descendants  of  Benjamin 
ought  no  longer  to  boast  of  their  left-handed  progenitors.  It  is  made 
of  the  sea-otter's  skin,  of  the  usual  form,  and  nearly  three  feet  in  length. 
Their  spear-heads  are  made  of  hard  bone,  about  six  inches  long,  well 
pointed,  with  a  barb  on  each  side  about  three  inches  from  the  point. 
These  are  attached  to  straight  poles,  smoothly  finished,  and  about  twelve 
feet  in  length.  This  weapon,  which  they  use  in  taking  seals  and  sea- 
otters,  is  thrown,  like  the  ancient  javelin,  from  a  level  with  the  eye, 
duly  balanced  in  the  right  hand,  and  seldom  fails  of  its  intended  effect. 
Their  bows  are  made  of  an  elastic  wood,  which  is  hard  and  susceptible 
of  a  high  polish.  They  are  generally  about  four  feet  in  length,  strung 
with  slips  of  the  otter-skin  or  plaited  sinews.  The  arrows  are  made 
of  finely  polished  wood  of  great  hardness,  pointed  with  a  sharp  flint  of 
triangular  shape,  and  are  about  three  feet  in  length.  i 

The  arms  of  these  Indians,  however,  are  no  certain  indication  of  their 
being  a  warlike  people  ;  my  own  impression  is  decidedly  that  they  are 
not,  their  habits  and  manners  being  timid  and  pacific.  The  weapons  just 
described  are  rather  their  tools  of  trade  by  which  they  procure  a  liveli- 
hood, the  flood  and  the  forest  being  their  principal  resources  for  food, 
which  generally  consists  of  shellfish,  seal  flesh  and  blubber,  sea-otters, 
shags,  and  a  few  wild  animals  that  inhabit  the  forests,  as  I  have  before 
mentioned.  They  keep  their  game  until  it  is  nearly  putrid  before  they 
eat  it.  j 

Their  natural  complexion  is  a  pale  yellow,  inclining  to  copper- 
colour,  as  can  easily  be  ascertained  by  those  parts  of  their  bodies  which 
are  not  daubed  over  with  paints  of  different  colours.  I  found  no  diffi- 
culty in  conversmg  with  them  by  signs,  though  whenever  they  were  at 
a  loss  for  my  meaning,  they  invariably  imitated  my  motions  and 
repeated  my  words,  which  rendered  our  intercourse  somewhat  tedious. 
It  must  be  admitted  that  they  are  sadly  deficient  in  the  virtue  of  per- 
sonal cleanliness  ;  but  not  so  "  horribly  offensive  and  loathsome"  as 


May.]  PACIFIC  OCEAN.  97 

has  been  represented  by  Cordova  and  others.  In  ahiiost  every  respect, 
however,  they  are  a  race  of  people  far  inferior  to  the  Patagonians,  and 
not  much  less  degraded  than  the  natives  of  Terra  del  Fuego,  whom 
all  navigators  unite  in  pronouncing  the  most  wretched  race  of  mortals 
on  earth. 

Though  the  women  are  of  much  smaller  size  than  the  men,  the 
former  are  compelled  to  do  all  the  labour  and  drudgery.  They  build 
the  wigwams,  gather  the  shellfish,  paddle  the  canoes,  <fcc.,  while  the 
men  either  sit  at  their  ease,  or  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  the  chase.  The 
men,  however,  occasionally  evince  considerable  fondness  for  their  wives 
and  children.  On  the  whole,  I  became  somewhat  interested  in  this 
apparently  wretched  race,  especially  M'hen  I  reflected  on  the  probability 
of  their  ancestors  having  been  driven  from  more  genial  climes  to  this 
mountainous  region  by  the  barbarity  of  strangers,  who  professed  to  be 
patterns  for  the  human  race  in  civilization  and  religion.  If  such  be 
the  fact,  I  wish  these  poor  Indians  might  be  informed  that  the  iniquity 
of  their  invaders  has  been  severely  visited  on  their  own  children,  until 
most  of  them,  at  the  present  moment,  are  more  indolent,  quite  as  filthy, 
almost  as  ignorant,  and  far  less  innocent  than  the  natives  of  Magellan's 
Strait.  Who  shall  say  that  the  latter  are  not  as  much  in  the  keeping 
of  the  Deity  as  the  former  ? 

May  17 ik. — We  left  Indian  Sound  on  Friday,  the  16th,  at  seveu 
o'clock,  A.  M.,  as  before  stated,  and  laid  our  course  across  the  strait 
towards  the  Land  of  Fire.  On  the  following  day,  at  seven,  P.  M.,  we 
ivere  close  in  with  the  southern  shore,  when  the  wind  hauled  round  to 
the  south-south-west.  Having  relinquished  the  hope  of  finding  any 
die- woods  in  this  strait,  qjthough  there  are  other  woods  of  great  value, 
I  concluded  to  make  the  best  of  our  way  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  We 
had  now  a  fine  breeze  off-shore,  and  light  snov^^-squalls  during  the 
night.  At  daylight  we  were  about  five  miles  to  the  eastward  of  Cape 
Pillar,  which  forms  the  north-western  extremity  of  Terra  del  Fuego, 
in  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

3Iai/  I8th. — At  one  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  landed  on  the  Four  Evan- 
gelists, where  we  took  one  himdred  and  twenty-seven  fur-seals.  At 
six,  P.  M.,  we  were  fairly  clear  of  the  strait,  and  floating  on  the  bosom 
of  that  immense  ocean  which  stretches  between  America  and  Asia  in 
one  direction,  and  the  antarctic  circle  and  Beehring's  Strait  in 
another.  We  now  commenced  examining  the  Pacific  coast  to  the  north 
of  Cape  Victory,  which  is  the  northern  boundary  of  the  western  en- 
trance of  Magellan's  Strait.  I  have  already  stated  that  the  southern 
botmdary  of  this  entrance  is  Cape  Pillar,  lying  south-south-east  from 
Cape  Victory,  distant  eight  leagues.  About  midway  between  these 
two  capes  are  four  small  islands,  or  rocks,  called  the  Four  Evangehsts, 
just  mentioned.  Three  of  these  are  low,  but  the  fourth  is  moderately 
high,  in  appearance  resembling  a  hay-stack.  These  islands  lie  in  lat. 
52°  34'  S.,  long.  75^  8'  W.  The  passages  between  them  and  the  last- 
mentioned  cap°es  are  easy  and  free  from  danger.  Variation  per  azi- 
•muth  23^  47'  easterly.  Cape  Victory  is  in  lat.  52°  24'  S.,  long. 
75°  3'  W.  '  G 


98  COAST  ON  THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN.  [1823 


CHAPTER  YIL 

Commence  surveying  the  Western  Coast  of  South  Ajnerica — Capes  St.  Isabel  and 
St.  Lucia — Strait  of  Conception — Cape  St.  .Tago — St.  Martin's  Island — Byers's 
Strait — Island  of  Madre  de  Dios — Capes  Throe  Points  and  Corso — Campana 
Channel  and  Island — Port  St.  Barbara — Cape  Nixon — Guayaneco  Islands — 
Interview  v.'ith  a  tribe  of  Indians  called  the  Caucaes — A  brief  Description  of 
these  Natives — The  Fourth  of  July — The  Wasp  in  a  perilous  Situation  on  a 
Rock — Damages  repaired — Anchors  converted  into  Rudder  Irons — Set  Sail  for 
JVIocha  Island — Obtain  fresh  Provisions — Island  of  Santa  Maria. 

From  Cape  Victory,  about  thirty-five  miles,  on  a  north-west-half- 
liorth  course,  lies  Cape  Isabel ;  and  eight  miles  beyond  that,  on  a  north- 
"vvest-half-west  course,  is  a  point  of  land  forming  the  north  boundary 
of  a  strait  which  penetrates  eastwardly  through  an  archipelago  of  small 
islands,  wliich  have  never  been  accurately  surveyed.  "We  continued 
following  the  coast,  or  rather  the  western  shores  of  a  chain  of  islands 
formincr  the  Gulf  of  Trinidad,  which  unites  with  iVIaffellan's  Strait  at 
Cape  Tamer.  Our  boats  were  constantly  close  in  shore,  searching 
every  mile  of  the  coast  for  seals,  and  ascertaining  the  character  of  the 
shores,  depth  of  water,  &lc.  There  were  very  few  fur  seals  to  be 
found,  however. 

Maij  2(jth. — At  two,  P.  jNI.,  we  arrived  at  Cape  St.  Lucia,  in  lat. 
51°  25'  S.,  long.  75^  33'  W.     In  the  direction  of  north-north-west- 
half-west  from  this  cape  lies  St.  Jago,  a  point  of  land  forming  the 
southern  extremity  of  St.  Martin's  Island,  lat.  50^  53'  S.,  long.  75°  35' 
W.     Between  this  and  St.  Lucia  is  a  numerous  cluster  of  islands, 
with  deep  water  all  around  them.     There  are  many  reefs  and  sunken 
rocks  on  the  seaboard,  and  also  among  these  islands,  but  tlmr  presence 
is  always   indicated  by  kelp,  or  rock-weed,  which  gives    sufficient 
warning.     They  afibrd  many  excellent  harbours,  and  ships  may  sail 
among  them  in  the  daytime  with  perfect  safety,  only  taking  care  to 
steer  clear  of  the  kelp.     They  also  furnish  wood  and  water  in  abun- 
dance, and    their  shores    are  much  frequented  by  hair-seals.      For 
repairing  vessels  they  furnish  every  facility,  as  timber  of  almost  any 
description  can  be  had  here  with  very  little  trouble,  and  the  natives 
seldom  visit  these  islands.     Ships  may  pass  from  Magellan's  Strait 
within   all  these  islands  by  entering  tlie  sound  at  Cape  Tamer,  and 
they  will  find  a  safe  and  easy  passage  to  the  Gulf  of  Trinidad,  a  dis- 
tance of  seventy  leagues,  all  the  M'ay  sheltered  from  the  sea  by  the 
unbroken  chain  of  islands  which  gem  this  part  of  the  coast,  and  prevent 
the  surge  from  the  Pacific  reaching  the  shore  of  the  continent.     The 
country  on  both  sides  of  this  sound  is  covered  with  the  finest  ship- 
timber*  in  the  world,  and  the  soil  is  capable  of  producing  any  thing 
congenial  to  the  climate.     The  shores  are  frequented  by  sea  otters, 
while  the  valleys,  plains,  and  forests  abound  \\ith  deer,  guanacoes, 


June.]  COAST  OX  THE  PACIFIC  OCEAX.  99 

foxes,  and  a  number  of  other  quadrupeds  of  different  species.  Ths 
groves  are  tenanted  by  a  great  variety  of  birds  of  the  most  beautiful 
plumage,  and  tlie  gently  undulating  plains  are  clothed  A^ith  a  rich  ver- 
dure, gayly  enamelled  with  a  variety  of  flowers. 

June  2d. — AYe  arrived  at  Eyers's  Strait  (so  called  in  honour  of  one 
of  our  owners),  which  separates  the  island  of  St.  Martin  from  that  of 
La  ]Madre  de  Dios.  A  ship  of  any  size  may  pass  through  this  strait 
with  ease  and  safety,  as  it  is  clear  of  danger.  On  the  north  shore  are 
two  fine  harbours,  and  there  is  another  which  is  very  commodious  on 
the  south-east  part  of  the  island  of  St.  jMartin,  about  five  miles  from 
Cape  St.  Jago.  By  following  the  eastern  shore  of  St.  Jago,  which 
runs  in  a  north-east  direction,  this  port  is  easily  found.  The  entrance 
is  plain,  and  the  course  of  the  channel  is  north-west  for  about  two  miles, 
forming  a  circular  basin  completely  land-locked  by  a  few  small  islands 
at  its  entrance.  The  depth  of  water  in  going  in  is  ten  fathoms  ;  and 
within  the  basin  from  five  to  fifteen  fathoms,  mud  and  clay  bottom. 
Both  water  and  wood  can  be  procured  here  with  the  greatest  ease, 
and  a  ship  may  heave-out  with  perfect  safety  on  the  w^est  side  of  the 
basin. 

June  \2tli. — On  leaving  the  little  strait  of  Byers,  we  proceeded  to 
examine  the  western  shore  of  the  island  La  Madre  de  Dios,  keeping 
■the  boats  along-shore  for  that  express  purpose,  until  we  arrived  at  Cape 
Three  Points,  in  lat.  49°  48'  S.,  long.  75°  50'  W.  This  Avas  on 
Thursday,  the  12th  of  June.  Here  we  found  the  variation  19°  56' 
easterly,  per  azimuth. 

About  twenty  miles  north-by-west-half-west  from  Cape  Three  Points 
is  Cape  Corso,  projecting  from  the  continent,  and  between  these  two 
capes  is  the  entrance  to  the  Gulf  of  Trinidad.  On  the  north  and  south 
sides  of  the  cape  last  named  are  several  excellent  harbours,  and  within 
the  gulf,  about  fifteen  miles  south-east  of  Cape  Corso,  is  one  of  the 
finest  I  have  ever  seen,  running  into  the  mainland,  and  sheltered  by  a 
small  round  island,  of  moderate  elevation,  which  lies  in  front  of  the 
entrance.  A  ship  may  pass  on  either  side  of  this  island  within  a 
cable's  length,  and  then  choose  her  own  anchorage  either  on  the  east 
or  west  side  of  the  basm,  in  from  four  to  twenty  fathoms  of  water,  clay 
bottom. 

The  harbour  on  the  north  side  of  Cape  Corso  is  about  eighteen  miles 
from  its  point,  in  the  direction  of  north-north-east-half-east,  being  a 
spacious  bay,  sheltered  from  all  winds,  and  sufficiently  capacious  to 
moor  one  hundred  ships  of  the  line.  The  depth  of  water  at  its  entrance 
is  forty  fathoms ;  but  on  the  v/est  and  south-west  side  of  the  bay  are 
found  from  five  to  twenty  fathoms,  sand  and  mud  bottom. 

The  island  of  La  Madre  de  Dios,  of  which  Cape  Three  Points  is 
the  north-western  extremity,  terminates  that  chain  of  islands  which 
forms  the  Sound  or  Gulf  of  Trinidad  ;  that  extensive  channel  or  strait 
which,  as  before  stated,  runs  in  a  southerly  direction  to  the  Strait  of 
Magellan,  with  which  it  unites  at  Cape  Tamer.  Its  northern  entrance 
is  between  Cape  Corso  on  the  main,  and  Cape  Three  Points  on  the 
island  of  La  Madre  de  Dios.  This  passage,  throughout,  abounds  with 
good  harbours  and  excellent  places  of  shelter.     Its  eastern  side,  wlxich 

G2 


200  THE  CAUCAES  INDIANS.  [1823 

is  the  continental  shore,  skirts  a  fine  fertile  country,  not  destitute  of 
inhabitants ;  but  I  believe  it  has  never  been  visited  with  reference  to 
commercial  objects. 

June  20tli. — Having  critically  inspected  the  main  coast  on  the  north 
side  of  Cape  Corso,  in  the  Campana  Channel,  we  landed  on  the  island 
of  Campana  on  Friday,  the  20th  of  June,  at  four,  P.  M.  After  taking 
a  few  fur-seals  on  the  south  cape  of  this  island,  we  proceeded  along 
its  western  shore,  keephig  the  boats  abreast  of  the  vessel,  close  in  to 
the  land,  searching  occasionally  for  fur-seals,  of  which  we  discovered 
ver}'  few. 

June  26th. — On  Thursday  we  arrived  at  Port  St.  Barbara,  on  the 
extreme  north  point  of  Campana  Island.  This  is  a  safe  and  convenient 
harbour,  without  the  least  danger  or  difficulty  in  entering,  as  you  carry 
in  seven  fathoms  of  water,  and  anchor  in  from  three  to  nine ;  the  bot- 
tom consisting  of  mud,  sand,  and  clay.  The  lagoon  runs  in  south- 
half-west,  about  four  miles,  and  the  west  side  affords  the  best  anchorage. 
The  entrance  of  this  port  is  in  lat.  48°  7'  S.,  long.  75*^  8'  AV. ;  varia- 
tion per  azimuth  18°  24'  easterly. 

The  extreme  south  point  of  this  island,  where  we  first  landed,  is 
called  Cape  M'Intyre  ;  and  twelve  leagues  farther  north  is  Cape  Nixon, 
■which  we  so  named  in  honour  of  two  of  our  owners.  It  has  a  bold 
hluff  shore  of  ragged  rocks,  bearing  north-west-by-north  from  the 
former.  The  course  from  Cape  Nixon  to  Cape  St.  Barbara  is  north- 
half-westi 

Seventeen  leagues  north  of  the  last-mentioned  cape  are  the  Gua)^- 
aneco  Islands  ;  a  group,  of  which  the  north  point  is  in  lat.  47°  31'  S., 
long.  75°  4'  W.  The  course  from  St.  Barbara,  north-by-west,  dis- 
tant about  twelve  leagues.  Among  this  cluster  are  many  fine  har- 
bours ;  the  land  is  low,  and  very  fertile,  clothed  with  heavy  timber, 
grass,  clover,  &c.  The  islands  which  form  the  north  part  of  this 
group  are  much  frequented  by  hair-seals.  A  variety  of  scale  and 
shell-fish  also  may  be  had  here  with  more  sport  than  labour. 

On  one  of  these  islands  -we  had  an  interview  with  the  Caucaes 
tribe,  who  had  come  hither  from  the  continent  on  a  fishing  excursion. 
These  Indians  have  a  very  dark,  swarthy  complexion,  are  of  middling 
stature,  and  extremely  courteous  in  their  demeanour  to  strangers. 
Their  dress  and  general  appearance  are  similar  to  those  of  the  Poyas, 
a  number  of  whom  we  saw  at  a  distance  in  the  Gulf  of  Trinidad,  and 
ivhose  location  is  on  the  continent,  in  lat.  50"  0'  S.  We  also  saw, 
under  similar  circumstances,  at  Cape  Corso,  some  of  the  Huilles,  who 
reside  in  about  the  forty-eighth  degree  of  south  latitude.  These  three 
distinct  tribes,  I  have  no  doubt,  have  all  descended  from  one  common 
stock, — their  dress,  canoes,  and  occupations  being  the  same. 

AVith  the  character,  maimers,  customs,  and  habits  of  the  Caucaes 
we  had  a  better  opportunity  of  becoming  acquainted.  Their  dress  is 
made  of  the  same  materials  as  that  of  the  Indians  on  the  Strait  of 
Magellan ;  but  the  shape  of  it  is  more  in  the  fashion  of  the  eastern 
Patagonians.  The  skins  are  sewed  together  in  the  form  of  a  large 
.square  blanket,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  hole  just  large  enough  for 
the  head  to  pass  through.     This  cloak  or  mantle  they  call  poncho* 


July.]  THE  CAUCAES  L\DIAXS.  101 

Their  noses  are  flat,  and  their  eyes  deeply  sunli  into  their  heads,  as 
if  shrinking  from  the  smoke  in  which  they  hve  and  breathe  for  more 
than  half  the  year.  Their  hair  is  long,  coarse,  and  black,  hanging 
down  over  their  shoulders,  and  partially  covering  their  faces.  As 
usual  among  savages,  the  women  perform  all  the  labour,  which  con- 
sists principally  in  diving  for  sea-eggs,  and  cooking  the  same  for  the 
lazy  men,  for  whom  they  also  make  clothing  and  erect  wigwams. 

The  women  are  very  expert  divers,  and  take  the  water  in  a  depth 
of  from  two  to  four  fathoms.  There  are  commonly  five  or  six  of 
them  in  one  canoe  when  engaged  in  these  fishing  parties.  When 
they  have  paddled  to  a  spot  where  the  sea-eggs  are  plenty,  one  of 
them  takes  a  basket  in  her  hand  and  dives  to  the  bottom,  where  she 
sometimes  remains  an  astonishing  length  of  time.  When  her  basket 
is  filled,  she  rises  to  the  surface,  deposites  her  prize  in  the  canoe,  and 
descends  again  in  the  same  manner  five  or  six  times :  after  which 
she  resumes  her  place  in  the  canoe,  while  one  of  her  companions  in 
her  turn  performs  the  same  feat ;  and  so  on,  one  after  another,  until 
each  one  has  performed  her  share  of  the  labour. 

When  their  canoe  is  sufficiently  well  freighted,  they  paddle  to  the 
shore,  discharge  their  cargo,  haul  up  their  boats,  and  wash  them  out, 
before  they  attempt  to  approach  the  fire,  where  their  indolent  husbands 
are  all  this  time  seated,  toasting  their  shins.  AVhen  it  is  recollected 
that  we  saw  all  this  performed  in  the  month  of  June,  in  the  middle  of 
a  southern  winter,  in  a  high  latitude,  the  reader  will  naturally  conclude 
that  these  females  are  not  very  tenderly  treated  by  the  sex  whom 
Heaven  intended  for  their  protectors.  | 

June  30th. — On  Monday,  the  30th,  we  anchored  on  the  north-east 
side  of  the  Guayaneco  Islands,  in  a  very  fine  harbour,  sheltered  from, 
all  winds,  and  affording  a  depth  of  water  from  fifteen  to  four  fathoms, — 
mud  and  clay  bottom.     This  we  called  Byers's  Harbour,  in  honour  of  i 
James  Byers,  Esq.,  of  New-York,  one  of  the  owners  of  the  Wasp,     j 

This  day  v;as  the  anniversary  of  our  leaving  New-York ;  one  year 
having  elapsed,  and  our  voyage  not  yet  half-accomplished.  In  all 
this  period  we  had  not  received  a  word  of  intelligence  from  home,  not 
having  spoken  a  single  vessel  from  the  United  States.  • 

July  \st. — On  Tuesday,  the  1st  day  of  July,  I  sent  the  boats  to  ex- 
amine the  shores  around  the  Gulf  of  Penas,  with  orders  to  follow  the 
coast  as  far  as  the  isthmus  of  Ofqui,  and  there  remain  until  they  saw 
the  vessel.  On  the  two  following  days  the  wind  was  light,  attended 
with  much  rain. 

July  4:th. — On  Friday,  the  4th,  the  weather  cleared  ofi',  and  after 
firing  a  salute  under  the  star-spangled  banner  in  honour  of  the  day,  we 
got  under  way  at  one  P.  M.,  and  steered  to  the  north-east,  whh  the 
wind  from  west-north-west,  in  search  of  the  boats.  At  six  P.  M.  the 
wind  began  to  blow  fresh,  attended  with  light  rain.  Seeing  nothing 
of  the  boats,  and  the  weather  having  every  appearance  of  an  ap- 
proaching gale,  I  determined  on  making  a  harbour  if  possible,  as  it 
was  not  safe  to  venture  cruising  about  among  the  numerous  rocks  and 
..  shoals  at  the  head  of  the  bay  in  a  dark  and  stormy  night.  Having, 
before  the  weather  came  on  thick,  observed  an  opening  in  the  land  at 


102  THE  WASP  ON  A  ROCK.  [1823.- 

the  head  of  the  bay,  I  had  the  precaution  to  take  the  bearings  of  it^ 
and  shaped  my  course  for  its  entrance,  keeping  a  man  in  each  of  the 
main  chains  with  hand-leads,  and  orders  to  throw  as  fast  as  possible. 

When  we  approached  the  entrance  of  the  lagoon  I  stationed  my- 
self at  the  mast-head  to  look  out  for  sunken  rocks.  At  eight  P.  M. 
ive  had  entered  the  chops  of  the  harbour,  running  under  easy  sail,  and 
linding  no  bottom  with  fifteen  f\uhoms  of  line.  I  could  see  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  fine  haven  bending  in  to  the  north,  and  no  danger  in 
sight.  But  just  as  we  were  doubling  round  the  north  point,  in  tolera- 
bly smooth  water,  the  vessel  struck  on  a  rock  in  the  middle  of  the- 
passage,  and  the  shock  of  the  concussion  had  nearly  precipitated  me 
from  the  mast-head. 

Thus  brought  up,  all  standing,  in  such  a  place  and  on  such  a  night, 
I  instantly  perceived  that  the  situation  of  the  little  Wasp  was  not  the 
most  enviable  in  the  world.  By  the  time  that  I  had  reached  the  deck, 
and  the  sails  were  lowered,  I  found  that  the  swell,  w^hich  was  heaving 
into  the  harbour,  had  nearly  hove  the  vessel  over  the  rock.  On  sound- 
ing over  the  bows  I  found  six  fathoms  of  water,  but  on  going  aft  I 
discovered  that  the  rudder  was  unhung. 

We  immediately  proceeded  to  carry  out  an  anchor  with  the  small 
stern  boat,  and  fifty  fathoms  of  cable ;  but  on  heaving  at  tlie  windlass 
a  few  minutes,  it  was  evident  that  the  anchor  came  home.  We  there- 
fore ceased  heaving,  and  carried  out  a  second  anchor,  with  seventy 
fathoms  of  cable.  Both  cables  were  then  taken  to  the  windlass,  and 
after  heaving  for  about  fifteen  minutes  the  vessel  slid  over  the  rock ; 
and  when  we  had  hove  her  to  her  anchors,  we  found  twenty-five 
fathoms  of  water  imder  her  stern.  Having  raised  the  best  bower  to 
the  bows,  and  hove  the  small  bower  short  apeak,  we  set  the  foresail 
and  jib,  then  tripped  the  anchor,  and  in  a  short  time  were  safely 
moored  in  seven  fathoms  of  water,  clay  ground,  and  sheltered  from 
all  winds. 

At  four  A.  iNI.  we  got  the  rudder  on  deck,  and  found  that  both, 
pintles  were  broken  off  close  to  the  timher ;  but  ascertaining,  at  day- 
light, that  the  gudgeons  were  uninjured,  we  prepared  to  fit  new  pindes 
to  the  rudder.  This  we  effected  by  taking  two  boat-anchors,  and 
■cutting  one  fluke  from  each,  and  the  palm  from  the  remaining  fluke. 
The  ring-end  was  then  severed  from  each  shank ;  and  the  latter,  after 
boring  for  the  purpose,  was  driven  into  the  rudder,  Mith  the  palmless 
fluke  pointing  dov/nwards,  as  a  substitute  for  a  pintle.  These  were 
then  shipped  into  the  copper  gudgeons  on  the  stern-post,  where  they 
traversed  with  ease  and  accuracy. 

Juhj  5th. — The  foregoing  process  of  supplying  rudder  pintles  was 
not  the  work  of  a  moment — it  being  about  five  o'clock  P.  J\I.  before 
the  rudder  was  restored  to  its  original  position,  and  the  pintles  properly 
shipped  in  the  gudgeons ;  where,  to  all  appearance,  every  part  was  as 
strong  as  ever.  Bv  this  time  the  wind  had  hauled  to  the  west-south- 
ivest,  and  blew  a  smart  gale,  w^hich  continued  for  two  days. 

Jidi/  ISth. — On  Tuesday,  the  8th,  the  wind  died  away  to  a  perfect 
calm,  with  pleasant  weather,  and  so  continued  for  nearly  two  days 
longer.     AVe  then  took  a  light  breeze  from  the  south,  and  resumed  our 


July.]  ISLAM)  OF  LA  MOCHA.  103 

search  for  the  boats,  which  we  fell  in  with  on  Sunday  the  13th,  on  the 
south-east  side  of  the  peninsula  of  Tres  Montes,  or  Three  Mountains. 
They  had  found  many  hair-seals,  but  very  few  of  the  fur  kind. 

July  I6th. — After  passing  through  Rogers's  Strait,  which  is  formed 
by  Wager  Island  on  the  south,  and  the  peninsula  before  mentioned  on 
the  north,  we  took  our  leave  of  the  Gulf  of  Penas  at  two  P.  M.,  and 
made  the  best  of  our  vray  for  the  island  of  La  Mocha,  to  procure 
fresh  provisions.  I  regretted  that  it  was  not  in  my  power  to  continue 
the  examination  of  this  coast  at  that  time ;  but  the  new-fashioned  pin- 
tles of  our  rudder  began  to  show  symptoms  of  instability,  and  I  now 
saw  the  necessity  of  hastening  to  tlie  tirst  port,  where  they  could  be 
replaced  by  copper  ones,  of  proper  construction.  I  shall  therefore 
refer  the  reader  to  the  voyage  of  182-1,  1825,  and  1826,  vrhich  I 
made  in  the  schooner  Tartar,  of  New- York,  to  the  North  and  South 
Pacitic  Oceans,  it  beinsf  the  second  of  these  "Four  Vovages :"  when 
I  resumed  the  examination  of  this  coast,  beginning  at  Point  Taitao- 
haohuon,  from  which  I  now  took  my  departure  for  the  island  of  La- 
Mocha,  for  the  reasons  just  stated. 

At  eleven  A.  M.  we  shaped  our  course  accordingly,  leaving  Point 
Taitaohaohuon  bearing  south-east-by-east,  distant  four  leagues,  with  a 
line  breeze  from  the  south-west,  and  fair  weather.  We  pursued  a. 
northerly  course,  with  variable  winds,  sometimes  interrupted  by  calms^ 
for  five  days. 

Jul)/  22(1. — On  Tuesday  morning,  the  22d  day  of  July,  we  arrived  at 
the  island  of  La  Mocha,  at  seven  A.  M.  I  immediatelv  sent  the  boats 
on  shore  in  search  of  wild  hogs.  This  island  is  in  lat.  38^  21^  S., 
long.  74°  5'  W.  Variation  per  azimuth,  at  three  P.  M.,  17°  22' 
easterly.  It  is  not  large  in  circumference,  but  so  much  elevated  that 
it  can  be  seen,  in  clear  w-eather,  at  the  distance  of  forty  miles.  In 
approaching  the  land  the  top  of  the  island  appears  rugged  and  broken  ; 
but  its  north-west  part  gradually  descends  to  a  low,  sandy,  level  point. 
Its  southern  point  terminates  in  a  more  abrupt  manner,  and  a  ledge  of 
small  rocks  rtms  from  it,  some  of  which  are  on  a  level  with  the  water, 
while  others  ascend  boldly.  Breakers  extend  off  to  the  westward 
about  five  miles.  On  the  north  side  of  Mocha  the  anchorage  is 
good,  with  the  w^mds  from  west-north-west,  round  by  the  west  to  the 
south-east. 

Wood  and  water  may  be  procured  at  this  island  in  abundance. 
There  are  also  plenty  of  wild  horses,  hogs,  and  various  kinds  of  birds. 
Wild  celer}"  grows  here  in  great  profusion,  together  with  other  anti- 
scorbutic vegetables. 

This  island  is  shuated  about  five  leagues  from  the  coast  of  the 
main,  the  channel  between  them  being  perfectly  safe,  with  from  fifteea 
to  twenty-five  fathoms  of  water.  The  mainland  of  Chili  is  moderately 
elevated  near  the  seacoast  abreast  of  Mocha.  The  island  is  about 
fifteen  miles  in  circumference,  and  was  formerly  inhabited  by  Indians 
from  the  continent ;  but  there  are  now  no  persons  to  be  found  on  it, 
excepting  a  few  natives  from  the  main  coast,  M'ho  come  here  for  the 
purpose  of  taking   hair-seals,  which  are  valuable    to   them   for  the 


104  ISLAND  OF  SANTA  MARIA.  [1823. 

skins  and  the  oil.     These  animals  abound  on  the  small  keys  at  the 
south  side  of  Mocha. 

July  23f/. — At  six  P.  M.  the  boats  returned,  with  thirteen  fine  v.ild 
liogs,  and  a  great  number  of  small  birds.  Having  hoisted  up  the 
boats,  we  filled  away,  and  steered  for  the  port  of  Conception,  with  a 
line  breeze  from  south-south-west,  and  fair  weather.  As  our  course 
lay  to  the  north,  we  passed  the  island  of  Santa  Maria,  in  lat.  37^  3' 
S.,  long.  72^  38'  W.  This  island  is  of  a  triangular  shape,  about 
seven  miles  in  length,  from  north  to  south,  and  three  miles  and  a  half 
in  breadth,  from  east  to  west.  To  the  north-east,  however,  it  extends 
out  in  a  long  narrow  point,  with  a  rocky  reef  running  from  its  ex- 
tremity. It  lies  near  the  maiii,  on  the  north  side  of  an  abrupt  angle 
in  the  coast,  forming  a  channel  to  the  rivers  Laran-Pangue  and  Lara- 
t^uete.  A  rocky  islet  lies  off  the  north-west  point  of  Santa  INIaria ; 
but  on  the  eastern  side  there  is  good  anchorage,  well  sheltered.  In 
running  in  for  the  anchorage,  however,  it  will  be  proper  to  give  the 
southern  point  of  the  island  a  good  berth,  and  the  same  precaution  is 
required  in  passing  the  north-east  point, — a  rocky  reef  extending  some 
distance  from  each. 

In  sailing  into  Santa  Maria  Bay,  it  is  best  to  fall  in  to  the  southward 
of  the  island.  In  approaching  the  land  a  rocky  head  becomes  visible, 
in  lat.  37°  6'  S.  This  is  the  south-east  head  of  the  island,  and  not 
very  high.  It  is  necessary  to  bring  this  head  to  bear  north,  and  then 
to  run  for  the  anchorage ;  thus  avoiding  some  sunken  rocks  which  lie 
to  the  south-south-west  of  this  head.  A  ship  must  not  approach  this 
head  nearer  than  one  mile,  until  it  is  brought  to  bear  west,  at  which 
time  she  will  be  past  a  small  reef  M'liich  lies  to  the  south-east  of  it. 
She  may  then  haul  into  the  bay  until  the  water  lessens  to  five  fathoms, 
sandy  bottom,  M'hen  she  may  choose  her  ground  from  seven  to  five. 
The  best  anchorage,  however,  is  on  the  south-west  side,  near  the  head 
of  the  bay. 

I  have  said  that  this  island  is  of  a  triangular  shape  ;  but  its  longest 
side  is  sufficiently  concave  to  give  it  the  appearance  of  an  irregular 
crescent,  with  both  points  bending  to  the  eastward ;  the  north  point, 
however,  extends  much  farther  east  than  the  south  point.  The  whole 
bay  has  a  sandy  bottom,  and  regular  soundings  ;  and  by  proper  atten- 
tion to  the  lead,  a  ship  may  beat  into  this  harbour  by  night  with  as 
much  safety  as  by  day.  Off  the  north-east  point  the  reef  runs  out 
about  half  a  mile ;  and  ships  falling  in  to  the  leeward,  by  giving  this 
reef  a  good  berth,  will  find  the  northern  passage  equally  safe  with  the 
southern. 

There  is  a  small  bay  on  the  north  side  of  the  island,  in  which  I 
should  always  advise  ships  to  anchor,  at  any  time  from  the  month  of 
September  to  the  following  May ;  as  during  that  period  the  wind  on 
tins  coast  blows  almost  constantly  from  the  south.  Indeed,  for  about 
eight  months  of  the  year,  it  may  properly  be  called  the  southerly  trade- 
wind.  Consequently,  ships  bound  to  any  ports  along  the  coast  of 
Chili  or  Peru  should  always  fall  in  with  the  land  to  the  windward  of 
their  destined  port. 

Water  and  wood  can  be  procured  in  this  bay  with  great  convenience 


July.]  ISLAND  OF  SANTA  MARIA.  105 

near  the  centre  of  the  concave  shore,  which,  from  the  south  head  to  the 
watering-place,  is  a  high  steep  bank ;  but  from  thence  to  the  north- 
east point,  it  is  a  low  sandy  beach.  Thus,  all  around  the  island,  the 
shore  in  some  places  is  a  sandy  beach,  while  in  other  places  it  is  iron- 
bound,  with  steep  banks  from  one  to  two  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  and  as  perpendicular  as  the  Hudson  Palisades. 

JMany  years  ago  the  island  of  Santa  JNIaria  was  stocked  with  black- 
cattle  and  several  other  kinds  of  animals  ;  and  a  small  settlement  of 
Spaniards  existed  here  previous  to  the  last  war  between  Spain  and 
England,  who  cultivated  various  kinds  of  fruit  trees  and  garden  vege- 
tables. But  during  the  war  they  found  themselves  annoyed  by  the 
English  cruisers,  who  made  the  island  a  place  of  rendezvous,  and 
finally  abandoned  the  settlement.  I  have  it  from  pretty  good  authority, 
however,  that  the  Enohsh  commanders  never  took  or  allowed  to  be 
taken  from  them  any  thing  but  what  was  liberally  paid  for  in  specie. 

The  little  colony  have  left  behind  them  many  memorials  of  their  taste 
and  industry.  Among  these  I  have  since  seen  a  number  of  apple-trees 
in  good  condition ;  several  kinds  of  garden  herbs,  such  as  balm,  sage, 
saffron,  and  all  kinds  of  mint ;  likewise  rose-bushes,  currants,  goose- 
berries, &LC.  The  soil  is  very  rich,  and  of  easy  cultivation,  being  level 
and  clear  of  stones,  "which  is  the  case  indeed  M'ith  most  of  the  tillage- 
land  all  along  this  coast.  This  island  would  produce  every  kind  of 
vegetables,  if  properly  cultivated.  The  air  is  remarkably  pure,  the 
atmosphere  generally  serene,  the  chmate  temperate,  and  the  prospects 
delightful. 

The  island  of  Santa  Maria  is  about  four  leagues  in  circumference, 
and  the  southern  extremity  is  a  great  resort  for  shags,  which  come  on 
shore  in  the  evening  to  roost  for  the  night,  and  repair  to  the  sea  again 
in  the  morning  in  search  of  food.  I  have  seen  more  than  two  thousand 
of  these  birds  laying  their  course  for  the  ocean  before  sunrise,  and  have 
watched  their  return  at  sunset  in  the  evening.  Their  eggs  are  verv 
fine  eating,  and  one  hundred  barrels  of  them,  in  the  proper  season,  may 
be  collected  in  a  very  short  time.  Gulls'  eoo^s  also  can  be  gathered 
in  great  abundance  on  the  north-east  part  of  the  island,  and  they  are 
equally  palatable.  There  are  various  other  kinds  of  birds  on  this 
island,  among  which  I  have  noticed  ducks,  teal,  eagles,  hav\'ks,  turkey- 
buzzards,  and  curlews  of  two  different  sorts.  Besides  these,  there  are 
many  small  beach  and  land-birds.  Good  fish  may  also  be  caught  here 
with  hook  and  line  or  with  a  seine,  and  right  whales  frequent  the  bay 
in  the  calving  season.     It  is  likewise  a  great  resort  for  hair-seals. 

On  the  main  opposite  this  island,  in  the  direction  of  east-south-east, 
is  a  beautiful  river,  the  banks  of  which  are  very  fertile,  abounding  with 
many  kinds  of  fruits  that  are  common  in  North  America  ;  among  these 
are  peaches  and  pears,  of  a  quality  far  superior  to  ours.  On  the  north 
side  of  this  river,  which  is  called  Toolvool,  once  stood  the  little  town 
of  Arruco,  which  was  burnt  by  the  pirate  Benavides  in  1821 .  Previous 
to  this  wanton  outrage,  ships  lying  under  the  island  were  usually  sup- 
plied with  refreshments  from  this  town  at  a  very  low  rate,  and  in  any 
quantity  that  might  be  desired,  'i'he  articles  then  obtained  here  by 
sending  the  boats  were,  bullocks,  sheep,  hogs,  goats,  fowls,  apples. 


106  I'ORT  TALCAGUAXO.  [1821. 

pears,  peaches,  potatoes,  cabbages,  pumpkins,  onions,  and  all  kinds 
of  garden-stuir.  The  distance  Ironi  the  island  to  the  river  is  about 
ten  miles. 

Seven  leagues  to  the  northward  of  the  island  of  Santa  Maria  are  the 
Paps  of  Biobio,  which  become  visible  by  the  lime  a  ship  is  abreast  of 
the  island,  forming  a  very  conspicuous  and  useful  landmark  in  entering 
the  port  of  Conception,  in  the  river  Biobio.  These  remarkable  hills 
are  thus  named  from  their  peculiar  shape,  and  their  appearance  does 
not  vary  much  in  whatever  direction  they  are  seen  from  the  ofFing. 
They  rise  from  a  sort  of  promontory  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  on 
which  side  also  stands  the  city  of  Conception. 

July  %ith. — On  Thursday,  the  24th,  we  entered  the  Bay  of  Concep- 
tion, and  at  eleven  A.  M.  anchored  in  the  port  of  Talcaguano,  at  the 
south-west  part  of  the  bay,  in  three  fathoms  of  water,  mud  and  clay 
bottom.  This  place  is  about  seven  miles  north  of  the  city  of  JMocha, 
or  New  Conception,  and  the  harbour  is  sheltered  from  the  westward 
by  an  elevated  peninsula  of  the  same  name.  The  entrance  to  this 
port  may  be  easily  known  by  the  island  of  Quiriquina,  which  is  some- 
what lower  than  the  adjacent  continent.  Ships  may  pass  on  either 
side  of  this  island,  but  the  eastern  passage  is  the  safest  and  the  widest. 
The  entrance  is  in  latitude  36°  36'  S.,  longitude  73°  12'  W. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  commodious  ports  in  the  world :  the  water 
within  the  bay  is  very  smooth,  with  scarcely  any  current,  and  the  tide 
flows  about  six  feet :  the  best  anchorage  is  before  the  village  of  Tal- 
caguano, on  the  south-west  side  of  the  bay.  The  surrounding  country 
is  extremely  pleasant,  and  seldom  troubled  by  the  blasts  of  winter. 
At  this  place  the  Andes  are  not  visible  from  the  anchorage,  the  view 
being  intercepted  by  the  Sierra  Belinda,  a  range  of  mountains,' abound- 
ing with  silver-mines,  among  which  the  river  Biobio  takes  its  rise,  and 
runs  nearly  due  west  to  the  Bay  of  Conception.  At  night,  however,  a 
flickering  glimmer  on  the  eastern  sky,  accompanied  with  some  vivid 
flashes,  bears  testimony  that  the  Chilian  volcanoes  are  still  in  full  blast, 
there  being  twelve  or  fourteen  of  them  in  a  state  of  constant  eruption, 
besides  several  others  which  discharge  smoke  at  intervals.  The 
mouth  of  the  river  is  about  one  mile  across,  and  its  sands  are  so  richly 
mingled  with  gold  that  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars 
worth  is  collected  annuall}^  and  placed  in  the  national  depdt  at  the 
new  city  of  ^locha,  or  New  Conception,  about  twelve  miles  from 
the  sea. 


July.]  MOCHA,  OR  NEW  COXCEPTIOX  i07 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Bay  of  Conception  and  Port  of  Talcaguano — City  of  Mocha,  or  Xew  Conception 
— The  River  Biobio — Soil,  Climate,  and  Xatural  Productions — Valparaiso  Bay 
and  City — Kindness  of  the  American  Consul,  Mr.  Kocran — Santiago,  or  St. 
Jago — Directions  for  entering  the  Harbour  of  Valparaiso — Climate,  Vvlnds, 
&c. — Valparaiso  destroyed  by  an  Earthquake — Amiable  Character  of  Mr.  Ho- 
gan — Arrive  at  Port  Coquimbo — Captain  Hutchins,  of  Baltimore — Heave  down 
the  Wasp  to  repair  Damages — Directions  for  entering  the  Port  of  Coquimbo — 
Description  of  the  Town — Caution  to  Shipmasters — Villanous  Attempt  at  Impo- 
sition— Sail  from  Coquimbo — Pursued  by  an  armed  Force,  which  soon  retreats 
— Islands  of  St.  Ambrose  and  St.  Felix — An  Adventure  promised  in  the  next 
Chapter. 

The  Bay  of  Conception  has  long  been  celebrated  for  its  natural 
beauties  and  maritime  conveniences  :  there  are  few  that  can  rank  with 
it  in  any  part  of  the  world ;  as  it  is  one  of  those  v/hich  nature  con- 
trived in  her  happiest  mood,  and  at  a  moment  when  she  felt  an  extra- 
ordinary interest  in  the  welfare  of  mariners.  Talcaguano  is  the  prin- 
cipal port  in  this  bay,  and  is  much  the  most  frequented, — as  ships  that 
anchor  here  have  not  only  better  ground  than  can  be  found  in  any  other 
port,  but  they  are  also  better  sheltered  from  the  north  wind,  which  is 
the  only  one  that  can  breathe  into  this  calm  retreat.  Every  kind  of 
refreshment  can  be  obtained  at  this  village  in  the  greatest  abundance, 
including  the  choicest  fruits,  and  there  is  every  facility  for  wooding  and 
vaterino-. 

This  town  was  built  in  consequence  of  the  city  of  Conception  being 
destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in  1751  ;  which  disaster  also  gave  rise  to 
the  city  of  Mocha,  or  New  Conception,  mentioned  at  the  conclusion 
of  the  last  chapter,  which  stands  on  the  north  bank  of  the  River  Biobio, 
and  was  peopled  by  inhabitants  who  removed  from  the  old  city  of  Con- 
ception. This  is  a  depot  for  the  silver  found  in  the  mines  of  Nimino, 
in  the  mountains  Sierra  Belinda,  and  also  for  the  gold  found  among 
the  sands  of  several  rivers,  particularly  Biobio. 

Two  years  after  the  earthquake  of  1751  had  destroyed  the  old  city 
of  Conception,  the  inhabitants  selected  a  site  for  a  new  town  in  the 
beautiful  valley  of  jNIocha,  at  about  a  league's  distance  from  the  former  : 
this  is  called  ^locha,  or  New  Conception :  the  population  is  variously 
estimated  at  from  ten  to  thirteen  thousand  souls.  The  city  covers  a 
considerable  extent  of  ground,  in  consequence  of  the  houses  being  only 
one  story  high,  a  necessary  precaution  to  guard  against  earthquakes, 
to  which  the  whole  country  is  subject.  The  Indians  have  several 
times  attacked  the  city  with  a  numerous  force ;  and  though  always 
repulsed,  they  seldom  retired  without  doing  much  damage. 

The  River  Biobio  (or  Viovio)  has  its  source  among  the  silver-mines 
in  the  moimtains  Sierra  Belluda,  before  mentioned ;  and  receives  the 
tributary  streams  of  Huequeen  and  Tolpan  before  it  reaches  Santa  Fe, 


108  PKODUCTIOXS  OF  CHILI.  [1823. 

where  it  first  becomes  navigable,  and  from  \vhence  to  its  mouth,  a 
distance  of  thirty-three  leagues,  its  course  is  nearly  due  west. 

The  soil  of  Chili,  and  this  part  of  it  in  particular,  is  celebrated  for 
its  fertility,  its  average  increase  being  sixty  to  one.  The  plains  are 
covered  with  innumerable  flocks,  which  multiply  almost  in  the  same 
proportion.  All  the  metals,  earths,  and  precious  stones  are  found  in 
abundance  among  the  mountains :  there  are  also  coal-mines  near  the 
site  of  the  Ibrmer  city.  The  productions  of  the  soil  are  maize,  rye, 
barley,  pulse,  wine,  oil,  sugar,  cotton,  and  fruits  of  various  kinds. 
There  are  no  dangerous  or  venomous  animals  in  the  country, — there 
being  only  one  specimen  of  the  serpent  genus,  and  that  is  a  little  harm- 
less reptile  like  our  garter-snake,  and  even  smaller.  The  climate  is 
mild  and  salubrious ;  the  nat>y(^  are  healthy  and  robust ;  the  spring 
continues  from  the  latter  patt  'of  September  to  December,  when  the 
summer  of  the  southern  hemisphere  begins. 

The  mountain-forests  are  full  of  lofty  trees  ;  and  all  the  fruits  of  the 
United  States,  with  a  great  many  aromatic  shrubs,  grow  in  the  valleys. 
Chili  is  said  to  be  the  only  country  in  the  New  World  where  the  culture 
of  the  grape  has  succeeded  to  perfection.  The  apples  are  of  extraor- 
dinary size ;  and  I  have  seen  peaches  here  nearly  as  large  as  those 
described  by  Bonnycastle,  who  mentions  fourteen  different  kinds  of 
them.  The  trees  of  the  forest  certainly  grow  to  an  immense  size ;  but 
I  can  hardly  credit  the  story,  so  often  repeated,  that  a  certain  mission- 
ary made  out  of  a  single  trunk  of  one  of  them  a  chapel  more  than 
sixty  feet  in  length,  including  beams,  floors,  laths,  doors,  wmdows, 
seats,  altars,  -and  two  confessionals  ! 

The  extensive  and  fertile  plains  for  which  this  country  is  celebrated 
are  not  visible  from  the  coast,  as  they  lie  between  the  two  ranges  of 
mountains  before  mentioned, — the  Sierra  Belinda  and  the  Andes.  Some 
of  these  vast  plains  are  said  to  be  nearly  as  high  as  those  of  Quito,  in 
the  republic  of  Peru ;  being,  in  fact,  extensive  table-lands,  far  above 
the  level  of  the  sea. 

July  26th. — Finding  neither  materials  nor  facilhies  to  aid  me  in 
repairing  the  damages  which  the  "Wasp  had  sustained  durhig  our  year'.s 
cruise,  I  prepared  to  leave  Talcaguano,  confident  tliat  Valparaiso  could 
furnish  every  thing  of  which  I  stood  in  need.  Accordingly,  on  Satur- 
day, the  26th,  at  eleven  A.  M.,  M'e  got  under  way,  and  steered  once 
more  in  a  northerly  direction,  with  a  light  breeze  from  south-by-west, 
and  fair  weather.  A'alparaiso  is  about  eighty  leagues  from  the  Bay 
of  Conception,  and  the  coast  between  them  runs  in  the  direction  of 
north-north-east  and  south-south-west.  Our  passage  was  considerably 
retarded  by  northerly  winds,  so  that  it  was  not  until  the  afternoon  of 
the  fifth  day  that  we  finally  cast  anchor  in  the  harbour  of  Valparaiso, 
or  the  Valley  of  Paradise— lat.  33=  3'  S.,  long.  71°  42'  W.  Varia- 
tion 15=  41,  E. 

July  d\st, — On  Thursday,  the  31st,  at  five,  P.  M.,  we  anchored  in 
seven  fathoms  of  water,  sand  and  muddy  bottom.  I  immediately  landed, 
and  repaired  to  the  American  consulate,  to  pay  my  respects  to  Mr. 
Hogan,  the  consul-general  of  the  United  States,  who  received  me  at 
his  office  with  that  politeness  and  urbanity  of  manners  which  have  ever 


July.]  CITY  OF  VALPARAISO.  109 

characterized  this  worthy  and  venerable  officer.  His  family  residence 
is  on  the  north  side  of  tlie  bay,  at  some  distance  from  liis  office,  which 
is  in  the  principal  street  of  the  city. 

After  introducing  myself,  and  making  him  acquainted  with  the  situa- 
tion of  the  schooner,  together  with  my  own  deficiency  of  funds,  he 
ofiered  to  render  me  every  assistance  of  which  I  stood  in  need,  and 
begged  me  to  draw  on  him  to  any  amount  I  pleased.  These  court- 
esies were  accepted  with  as  much  frankness  as  they  were  offered,  and 
I  took  my  leave  of  the  worthy  consul  with  sentiments  of  gratitude  and 
respect,  which  many  subsequent  interviews  have  only  tended  to  heighten 
and  increase.  He  was  at  this  time  about  sixty-five  years  of  age,  and 
was  universally  esteemed  as  one  of  the  worthiest  men  in  the  world. 

The  town  or  city  of  Valparaiso,  which  eight  months  previous  to  my 
arrival  had  been  almost  totally  destroyed  by  an  earthquake,  Avas  now 
nearly  rebuilt  in  its  original  style.  The  buildings  are  principally  situ- 
ated on  one  irregular  street,  extending  along  the  base  of  a  steep  hill, 
or  mountain,  which  overhangs  the  curvature  of  the  bay,  from  Point 
Angels,  on  its  south-western  side,  to  the  Almendral,  on  its  north-eastern 
side :  the  latter  is  so  called  from  the  almond-gardens  and  olive-groves 
which  flourish  in  this  quarter ;  and  in  this  delightful  retreat  is  the  resi- 
dence of  our  venerable  consul-general,  Michael  Hogan,  Esq. 

From  this  gentleman  I  learned  that  the  now  splendid  city  of  Valpa- 
raiso was  very  humble  and  insignificant  in  its  origin  ;  consisting  at  first 
of  a  few  warehouses  merely,  in  Avhich  the  merchants  of  St.  Jago,  the 
capital  of  Chili,  had  their  goods  stored,  for  the  convenience  of  shipping 
them  to  Callao,  in  Peru.  At  this  period  the  only  inhabitants  of  Val- 
paraiso were  a  few  servants,  left  by  their  respective  masters  to  take 
care  of  these  warehouses.  In  process  of  time,  however,  the  merchants 
themselves,  together  with  several  other  families,  removed  hither  from 
the  metropolis,  in  order  to  be  more  conveniently  situated  for  trade ; 
since  which  it  has  gradually  increased,  and  would  still  continue  to  grow 
in  magnitude  as  in  wealth,  were  it  not  so  inconveniently  situated  on 
account  of  the  rugged  precipices  behind  it,  which  prevent  its  extending 
in  that  direction. 

The  buildings,  as  is  usual  on  this  coast,  where  earthquakes  are  so 
frequent,  are  generally  of  one  story  onl}^  made  of  unburnt  brick,  with 
roofs  of  red  tile  ;  but  being  whitewashed,  and  most  of  them  embellished 
\vith  shrubbery,  they  have  a  neat  refreshing  appearance,  especially  to 
mariners  from  a  long  voyage.  Those  that  stand  nearest  the  water,  ar- 
ranged along  the  curvature  of  the  bay,  are  mostly  shops  and  store-houses, 
the  greatest  number  of  which  are  occupied  by  American  and  English 
merchants,  who  monopolize  a  principal  part  of  the  trade  at  this  port. 
The  custom-house  is  conveniently  situated  near  the  water,  about  the 
centre  of  the  curving  beach,  opposite  to  which  all  boats  are  compelled 
to  land. 

The  precipice  which  overhangs  the  town,  composed  of  red  earth 
and  rock,  is  divided  in  one  place  by  a  narrow  glen  or  ravine,  having 
at  its  mouth  a  kind  of  open  square,  from  which  zigzag  streets  run  up 
the  sides  of  the  hills.  The  principal  streets  are  Mell  paved,  the  win- 
dows glazed,  the  shops  well  furnished,  and  all  enlivened  by  the  activity 


110  VALPARAISO— ST.  JAGO.  [1823. 

of  business.  Carts,  wagons,  liorses,  oxen,  &:c.,  all  served  to  remind 
me  of  similar  streets  in  the  United  States.  The  market  is  excellent ; 
and,  as  Mr.  Ilogan  afterward  assured  tlie  Rev.  Mr.  Stewart,  "  what- 
ever else  may  be  said  of  Chili,  she  can  boast  as  good  eating  and  drink- 
ing as  can  be  found  in  any  part  of  the  world." 

The  capital  of  Chili,  St.  Jago,  or  St.  lago,  or,  as  many  spell  it, 
Santiago,  is  not  quite  fifty  miles  from  Valparaiso,  in  tlie  direction  of 
east-by-soulh.  Of  course  it  is  an  inland  city,  and  on  that  account 
more  convenient  as  the  metropolis  of  a  great  republic.  Its  situation, 
Mr.  Hogan  informed  me,  was  convenient  and  delightful ;  being  on  the 
side  of  a  fertile  plain  twenty-four  leagues  in  extent,  and  bounded  on 
the  other  side  by  amnjestic  hill.  Its  streets  are  broad  and  well  paved, 
crossing  each  other  at  right  angles  ;  its  gardens  are  M'ateredby  canals, 
and  the  principal  square  is  adorned  with  a  fine  fountain.  The  plain 
just  mentioned  is  called  Mapocho,  through  which  meanders  a  river  of 
the  same  name  ;  and  rich  mines  of  gold  and  silver  abound  among  the 
adjacent  hills. 

The  city  contains  about  sixty-five  thousand  inhabitants, .and  is  plen- 
tifully supplied  with  every  convenience  and  luxury  of  life.  The  houses 
generally  are  of  one  story  only,  with  fiat  roofs,  surmounted  by  a  para- 
pet running  along  the  front,  just  above  the  cornice,  and  the  walls  are 
whitewashed.  There  are  more  shops  here  than  in  any  other  city  of 
Chili ;  as  it  is  the  centre  of  all  the  internal  traffic  of  the  country.  The 
inhabitants  are  gay  and  hospitable,  and  in  these  qualities  excel  their 
countrymen  in  the  Old  World,  who  are  proverbial  for  their  gravity. 
Pvlusic  and  dancing  are  the  favourite  amusements  of  the  people ;  as  is 
the  case  in  almost  every  part  of  Spanish  America. 

Between  Santiago  and  Valparaiso  tliere  is  a  fine  road,  and  incessant 
communication ;  while  from  the  capital  to  Buenos  Ayres,  there  is  not  only 
a  good  road,  but  a  regular  mail-route  established,  by  which  the  inhabit- 
ants of  either  city  obtain  letters  eighteen  da^'s  after  date.  These  cir- 
cumstances are  of  great  advantage  to  Valparaiso,  and  have  contributed 
much  to  her  growth.  Previous  to  the  revolution,  her  trade  was  chiefly 
confined  to  Peru,  which  it  nearly  supplied  with  grain,  hemp,  and 
cordage ;  receiving  in  retimi  sugar,  tobacco,  indigo,  spirits,  and 
cofi'ee. 

Ships  bound  to  Valparaiso  should  always  make  the  land  to  the 
south  of  the  bay,  at  least  two  leagues^  as  southerly  winds  prevail  on 
this  coast  more  than  seven-eighths  of  the  time,  for  the  year  round.  Six 
or  seven  miles  to  the  south  of  the  bay,  the  coast  is  nearly  north  and  south, 
and  indented  with  many  small  coves  and  bays.  About  four  miles 
south-west  of  Point  Anoels  there  is  a  little  bav,  with  a  sand-beach  at 
the  head  of  it,  and  a  ragged  rock  at  the  mouth.  After  passing  this  rock, 
the  coast  tends  more  to  the  eastward  ;  but  with  an  offing  of  two  or  three 
miles,  the  western  point  of  Valparaiso  Bay  will  be  visible.  This  is 
called  Point  Angels,  jutting  out  from  the  coast  in  a  north-west  direction ; 
and  in  doubling  this  point  ships  enter  the  Bay  of  Valparaiso,  which  is 
open  towards  the  north.  In  entering  here  with  a  southerly  wind,  a  ship 
should  keep  Point  Angels  close  aboard ;  for  though  there  are  a  few 
rocks  lying  a  little  off-shore,  just  within  the  outer  point,  yet  they  are 


CLIMATE,  WINDS,  ETC.  HI 

not  dangerous,  being  always  visible,  and  may  be  safely  passed  within 
a  cable's  lenoth. 

The  first  interesting  object  that  presents  itself  to  the  eye  on  round- 
ing Point  Angels  is  a  long  sandy  beach  on  the  opposite  or  eastern  side 
of  the  bay,  and  beyond  that  the  almond-gardens  before  mentioned. 
"In  an  instant  afterward  the  whole  town,  shipping  with  their  colours 
flying,  and  the  forts,  burst  out,  as  it  were,  from  behind  the  rocks,"*  and 
the  city  of  Valparaiso  lies  before  you,  close  by  the  water,  under  a 
naked  precipice  of  red  earth  and  rock. 

This  cheerful  and  animating  scene  may  be  contemplated  as  you 
haul  in  lor  the  shipping  and  choose  your  anchorage.  If  it  be  winter, 
a  ship  should  not  anchor  in  less  than  fifteen  fathoms  ;  but  during  the 
summer  months  her  best  berth  M'ill  be  in-shore,  in  four  or  five  fathoms, 
if  possible.  She  will  be  more  likely  to  hold  on  in  this  position,  as  the 
bottom  is  not  so  much  broken  up  as  it  is  farther  oflf-shore. 

This  port  is  defended  by  three  castles,  viz.  St.  Anthony's,  Rosario, 
and  Conception.  There  is  also  a  fortress  at  the  eastward  of  the  A.1- 
mandral,  called  Fort  Caleta.  That  part  of  the  town  called  the  Alman- 
dral,  with  its  delightful  groves  of  almond  and  olive-trees,  occupies  the 
declivity  of  the  mountain  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  bay,  and  is  con- 
sidered as  the  suburbs  of  the  city. 

The  climate  here,  except  during  the  rainy  season,  is  temperate, 
healthful,  serene,  and  not  surpassed  in  any  section  of  the  globe.  In 
the  spring,  summer,  and  autumn  months  there  is  seldom  a  cloud  to  be 
seen.  A  fog  generally  prevails  in  the  morning,  hanging  over  the  coast, 
and  rising  up  the  mountains  in  such  a  manner  as  to  remind  one  of  a 
summer  sunrise  among  the  Highlands  of  the  Hudson  River.  But  when 
the  sun  bursts  from  behind  the  mountains,  the  scene  is  instantly  lighted 
up  with  a  beauty  and  a  brilliancy  unrivalled  in  any  other  place  I  have 
ever  visited.  A  foggy  morning  at  Valparaiso  is  a  good  sign,  for  when 
the  morning  breaks  v/ith  a  perfect  clear  sky,  and  the  sun  rises  uncon- 
cealed by  haze,  while  the  horizon  in  the  offing  is  broken  by  a  tremulous 
hue,  a  very  strong  southerly  wind  is  to  be  expected  about  noon  ;  v/hich 
sometimes  comes  down  the  mountain  that  encircles  the  town  in  fitful 
gusts,  and  with  such  violence  as  to  drive  ships  from  their  anchors,  un- 
less they  lie  v.-ell  in-shore,  under  shelter  of  the  highlands. 

These  troublesome  v/inds,  however,  generally  abate  and  die  away 
at  sunset,  when  a  calm  night  of  starlit  beauty  succeeds  ;  which,  if  the 
moon  be  at  the  right  age,  is  delightful  beyond  description.  AVhen  the 
morning  breaks  with  fog,  clouds,  and  haze,  a  breeze  generally  sets  in 
at  the  early  part  of  the  day,  and  frequently  from  difierent  points  of  the 
compass,  but  with  no  strong  gusts  from  the  south.  The  country  back 
of  the  precipice  which  surrounds  the  town  is  diversified  with  hills, 
plains,  and  valleys.  The  vale  of  Quillota,  in  particular,  is  very  beau- 
tiful, and  luxuriantly  fertile.  A  river  called  the  Aconcagua  meanders 
through  it,  on  the  banks  of  which  is  built  the  city  of  St.  Martin  de  la 
Concha,  otherwise  called  Quillota,  about  forty  miles  from  Valparaiso. 

August  2d. — My  venerable  friend  the  consul-general  had  been  so 

*  rortsr's  Journal. 


112  s  THE  EARTHQUAKE.  .  [1823. 

liberal  and  prompt  in  his  supplies,  that  I  was  nearly  ready  to  sail  on 
Saturday,  tlie  2d  of  August,  for  Port  Coquimbo,  about  sixty-five  leagues 
farther  north,  where  I  intended  to  unload  the  Wasp,  and  tlirow  her  down 
for  a  thorough  repair.  Mr.  Hogan  kindly  advanced  all  the  money 
that  I  required,  which  enabled  me  to  purchase  copper,  timber,  and 
other  necessaries  for  the  contemplated  purpose.  Much  of  our  copper 
sheathing  had  been  ripped  oil'  by  the  ice,  in  our  antarctic  expedition ; 
a  new  cut-water  and  false  keel  were  also  necessary ;  and  a  portion  of 
the  stern-post  wliich  had  been  beaten  off  while  tiie  Wasp  was  on  the 
rocks  in  the  Gulf  of  Penas  was  to  be  replaced.  The  spars,  sails, 
and  rigging  likewise  required  overhauling  and  repairing  :  to  do  all 
of  which  I  was  amply  supplied  with  means  by  the  kindness  of  Mr. 
Hogan. 

During  one  of  my  visits  to  this  gentleman,  he  related  to  me  many 
interesting  particulars  connected  with  the  late  dreadful  earthquake 
which,  eight  months  before,  had  nearly  reduced  tlie  city  to  a  heap  of 
ruins.  This  tremendous  disaster  occurred  on  the  18th  of  Novem- 
ber ;  the  very  day  that  I  relinquished  my  fruitless  search  for  the  Aurora 
Islands,  as  stated  in  Chap.  III.  It  took  place  between  ten  and  eleven 
o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  most  of  the  destruction  was  caused  by  the 
first  shock,  which  was  of  nearly  three  minutes'  duration.  This  un- 
iisually  protracted  convulsion  of  the  earth  spread  terror,  consternation, 
and  dismay  in  every  direction,  far  and  near.  The  inhabitants  fled  to 
the  hills  and  the  shipping  for  safety. 

JNIany  lives  were  lost ;  more  than  three  hundred  mangled  bodies 
being  afterward  taken  out  of  the  ruins,  from  whence  many  were  also 
extricated  alive.  A  great  number  were  wounded,  among  whom  "svas 
the  supreme  director  (who  was  down  at  that  time  from  the  capital, 
Santiago),  Avho  very  narrowly  escaped  while  the  governor's  palace  was 
trembling  over  his  head.  Tliis  building  is  still  so  entirely  in  ruins 
that  it  will  be  required  to  rebuild  it  from  the  foundation.  Several 
churches  were  levelled  to  the  ground,  and  others  so  much  rent  and 
shattered  as  to  ruin  them.  The  custom-house  was  much  injured,  and 
almost  every  building  in  the  place  received  more  or  less  damage. 

Several  other  heavy  shocks  succeeded  the  first,  but  none  of  them 
equalled  it  in  violence  or  effect.  Lighter  shocks  were  experienced 
almost  every  day  afterward  for  nearly  a  month.  All  Chili  appeared 
to  be  shaken  to  its  foundation ;  and  the  capital,  Santiago,  or  St.  Jago, 
was  so  violently  agitated  that  most  of  the  inhabitants  left  their  houses, 
and  encamped  in  the  fields.  Several  of  the  neighbouring  towns  and 
villages  were  entirely  ruined.  The  whole  surviving  population  of  Val- 
paraiso were,  for  months  afterward,  scattered  about  the  hills  around 
the  port,  and  sheltered  by  tents,  under  the  most  alarming  apprehensions 
of  perishing  by  famine,  as  all  business  was  put  a  stop  to. 

;Mr.  Hogan  and  the  other  consuls  succeeded  in  making  their  escape 
from  the  falling  edifices,  and  took  refuge  on  board  the  shipping,  as  did 
also  many  English  and  American  families  residing  in  the  place.  One 
of  these  gentlemen  told  me  that  he  was  sitting  with  some  friends  in  his 
room,  when  the  first  thing  they  heard  was  the  falling  of  the  roof,  and,  on 
rushing  forward  he  found  it  impossible  to  stand,  the  earth  was  in  such 


Aug.]  THE  EARTHQUAKE.  11 


t\ 


violent  agitation.  He  fortunately  got  into  the  street  before  the  house 
fell ;  the  next  moment  the  earth  was  rent  asunder,  leaving  a  tremen- 
dous chasm ! 

"  The  objects  on  all  sides,"  said  he,  "  the  screams  of  the  dying,  the 
cries  of  the  fugitives,  and  the  dangers  which  surrounded  me,  filled  my 
mind  with  the  most  awful  emotions.  At  length  I  was  rescued  from  my 
perilous  situation  by  one  of  my  friends,  and  took  refuge  on  board  the 
shipping.  But  every  two  or  three  hours  afterward  there  was  a  new 
convulsion  of  the  earth,  which  communicated  itself  to  the  water,  and 
sensibly  aflected  the  repose  of  the  vessels." 

Another  gentleman,  a  Bostonian,  then  residing  at  Valparaiso,  de- 
scribed his  sensations  nearly  in  the  following  terms : — "  On  the 
eighteenth,"  said  he,  "  we  had  been  removing  to  another  building,  and 
the  goods,  furniture,  &c.  were  piled  up  loose  and  promiscuously  about 
the  room  where  w^e  slept,  not  having  had  time  to  stow^  them  away. 
We  were  in  bed,  and  all  the  lights  extinguished,  on  a  second  floor,  high 
from  the  street,  and  unacquainted  with  the  passage  out.  I  will  not 
attempt  to  describe  the  horror  of  the  moment  when  the  first  shock  was 
felt.  The  sound  resembled  a  long-continued  peal  of  thunder.  The 
brick  floor  under  us  rattled  ;  the  tenders  over  our  heads  cracked  ;  while 
the  lime  and  the  dust  from  the  crumbling  mud-walls  almost  sufibcated 
us.  The  whole  edifice  rolled  and  trembled  like  a  ship  in  a  heavy 
short  sea.  AVe  finally  elTected  our  escape  to  the  street,  where  the 
tiles  and  other  missiles  were  falling  around  us  like  hail.  The  shrieks  of 
women,  the  cries  of  children,  and  the  voices  of  men  were  heard  in 
every  direction ;  and  people  of  all  classes  were  running  almost  naked 
through  the  streets,  calling  on  saints  for  mercy  and  protection." 

Mr.  Hogan  then  related  an  anecdote,  which  all  the  gentlemen  pres- 
ent assured  me  was  a  fact.  He  said  that  a  few  days  after  the  earth- 
quake, a  number  of  priests  drew  up  a  petition  for  the  expulsion  of  all 
the  English  ami  Americans  (or  heretics,  as  they  termed  them)  that 
resided  at  Valparaiso,  as  being  the  cause  of  the  earthquake  and  its 
attendant  calamities,  bv  their  not  belonoino-  to  the  true  church.  Thev 
applied  to  the  oldest  judge  of  the  city  to  obtain  his  signature  to  head 
the  list  of  petitioners.  His  reply  was,  "  How  can  you  attribute  this 
affliction  to  the  wickedness  of  the  '  Anglices,''  when  tJieir  houses  are 
most  of  them  standing,  and  all  their  lives  spared,  as  witnesses  of  their 
innocence ;  while  you,  who  call  yourselves  good  Catholics,  with  all 
your  prayers,  and  the  assistance  of  patron  saints,  could  not  save  our 
churches,  houses,  and  hundreds  of  the  true  faith  from  utter  destruction  I 
As  for  myself,  on  the  night  of  the  earthquake,  with  the  rest  of  my  familyt 
I  was  taken  from  impending  ruin  by  an  American,  at  the  imminent  risk 
ef  his  life,when  no  countrjTiian  of  ray  own  would  come  to  my  assistance  ; 
I  shall  therefore  not  subscribe  to  any  such  thing." 

I  could  not  depart  from  Valparaiso  without  taking  a  more  particular 
leave  of  the  consul,  and  tendering  him  the  sincere  homage  of  my 
esteem  and  respect.  He  received  me  and  parted  from  me  as  a  father 
would  with  a  favourite  son.  The  warm  cordiality  of  his  manners, 
united  with  the  sprightliness  and  intelligence  of  his  conversation,  en- 
krened  by  anecdotes  of  all  parts  of  the  world,  endear  him  to  every 

U 


114  PORT  OF  COQUIMBO.  [1823. 

one  who  has  the  happiness  to  be  near  him.  He  has  been  a  great  trav- 
eller, and  a  very  close  observer,  which  facts  render  his  conversation 
peculiarly  interesting.  He  was  once  a  midshipman  m  the  British  navy, 
on  board  the  same  ship,  and  in  the  same  mess,  with  the  then  Duke  oi 
Clarence,  now  King  ol"  England.  I  parted  from  him  with  regret  and 
affection.  I  have  had  occasion  to  visit  him  in  subsequent  voyages, 
and  always  with  sentiments  of  increased  admiration. 

August  3(/. — We  this  day  departed  from  Valparaiso,  with  a  light 
breeze  from  south-south-west,  and  fair  weatlier.  At  8,  P.  M.,  we  took 
the  wind  from  the  northward,  varying  from  north-west  to  north-east,  at- 
tended, part  of  the  time,  with  heavy  rains. 

August  1th. — We  arrived  at  the  port  of  Coquimbo,  and  at  5,  P.  M., 
came  to  anchor  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  mud  and  clay  bottom.  Here 
we  found  the  brig  Canada,  Captain  Hutchins,  from  Baltimore,  on  a 
trading  voyage,  and  waiting  for  part  of  a  cargo  of  copper.  Captain 
H.  kindly  assisted  me  in  my  contemplated  repairs  of  the  Wasp,  by 
permitting  me  to  transfer  her  cargo  to  his  brig,  which  was  lying  in 
ballast,  and  to  heave  the  schooner  down  by  the  brig.  He  likewise  let 
me  have  his  carpenter  and  a  part  of  his  crew,  which  was  of  very  great 
assistance,  and  a  courtesy  that  I  shall  not  easily  or  speedily  forget. 

We  immediately  commenced  overhauling  the  Wasp,  and  preparing 
to  turn  her  keel  out  of  water ;  so  that  on  Monday,  the  eleventh,  the 
starboard  side  of  the  schooner's  bottom  was  exposed  to  view,  when  wc 
discovered  that  the  cut-water,  with  a  portion  of  the  main  stem,  also 
the  false  keel,  with  a  part  of  the  main  keel,  together  with  the  heel  of 
the  stern-post,  had  all  been  beaten  off  on  the  rocks  in  the  Gulf  of  Penas, 
on  the  fourth  of  July.  We  likewise  found  that  a  great  part  of  the 
copper  had  been  cut  off  the  bottom,  from  the  bends  about  six  feet  under 
.  "Water,  nearly  fore  and  aft,  by  the  ice  in  the  antarctic  circle; 

August  2\st. — AVe  had  laboured  so  diligently  that  by  Monday,  the 
eighteenth,  the  vessel's  bottom  was  in  perfect  order  ;*and  on  Tiiurs- 
day,  the  twenty-first,  we  were  all  ready  for  sea,  with  every  thing  on 
board.  It  is  but  just  to  remark,  in  this  place,  that  I  received  every 
assistance  from  Mr.  Stewart,  the  vice-consul  of  the  United  States,  that 
my  distressed  situation  required,  the  damages  of  the  Wasp  having  ex- 
ceeded our  anticipations. 

The  port  of  Coquimbo  is  a  convenient  and  safe  harbour,  much  fre- 
quented, and  noted  for  the  extensive  copper-mines  in  its  vicinity.  In 
entering  this  port,  it  is  proper  to  make  the  land  a  few  leagues  south 
of  it,  say  in  latitude  30^  5'  S.,  and  follow  the  shore  to  the  northward 
till  you  approach  the  nearest  point  of  the  bay,  which  opens  to  the  north 
like  that  of  "Valparaiso.  Off  this  point  a  number  of  rocks  and  rocky 
islets  are  visible,  which  strangers  had  best  leave  on  the  right-hand, 
although  there  is  water  four  fathoms  deep  between  them  and  the  point ; 
but  the  passage  is  narrow,  and  by  keeping  outside  of  them,  sufficient 
room  is  secured  to  beat  to  windward,  which  is  generally  necessary  to 
reach  the  anchorage  in  the  south-west  part  of  the  bay,  abreast  of  some 
'warehouses.  Here  a  ship  may  anchor  in  from  eight  to  three  fathoms, 
with  the  flag-staff  on  the  fort  bearing  west,  distant  about  one  milo. 
Here  is  a  fine  harbour,  and  the  fairest  of  weather  that  it  is  possible  ta 


Aug.]  ADVENTURE  WITH  A  PULLA-PEREE  MAX.  115 

^vish  for  nearly  all  the  year  round.  It  is  approached  without  clanger, 
and  enjoyed  without  any  molestation  from  the  elements.  The  only 
annoyance  to  be  apprehended  is  from  man — degraded,  base,  mercenary 
man  !  as  I  was  taught  by  experience  before  my  departure. 

The  town  of  Coquimbo,  sometimes  called  La  Serena,  is  prepossess- 
ing in  its  appearance ;  the  streets  are  shaded  with  myrtle-trees,  and 
arranged  so  as  to  form  squares  ;  a  garden  well  stored  with  fruit  trees 
is  attached  to  every  house.  It  was  the  capital  of  the  province  of  the 
same  name  previous  to  the  revolution,  being  the  second  town  built  by 
Valdivia,  for  the  purpose  of  maintaining  an  intercourse  between  Peru 
and  Chili.  It  stands  about  a  mile  from  the  sea,  in  a  most  delightful 
situation,  commanding  an  extensive  view  of  the  country,  the  ocean,  and 
a  river  of  the  same  name.  The  country  around  presents  a  charmmg 
prospect,  diversified  with  shady  groves,  cultivated  fields,  and  verdant 
meadows. 

The  town  is  large,  but  is  said  not  to  be  proportionably  populous.  It 
has  several  churches  and  convents  ;  also  a  town-house,  and  some  other 
public  buildings.  It  is  furnished  wiih  water  by  canals  cut  from  the  river 
on  its  north  side,  which  has  previously  meandered  through  a  beautiful 
valley  of  the  same  name  ;  by  this  means  the  freshness,  beauty,  and  fer- 
tility of  their  gardens  are  rendered  so  conspicuous.  This  river  empties 
into  the  bay  where  we  were  now  lying  at  anchor,  ready  for  sea.  The 
country  is  not  only  very  prolific  in  vegetable  productions,  but  also 
abounds  with  mines  of  various  kinds.  There  is  one  of  copper  about 
five  leagues  from  the  town,  on  a  high  green  hill  in  form  of  a  sugar- 
loaf,  which  serves  as  a  landmark  in  entering  the  port.  The  climate 
is  very  agreeable,  being  almost  uniformly  mild  and  serene. 

Before  I  take  my  leave  of  Coquimbo,  I  feel  it  my  duty  to  give  one 
serious  caution  to  shipmasters  who  visit  tliis  port ;  and  that  is,  to  pro- 
hibit their  crews  from  having  any  dealings  with  the  pulla-perees,  of 
grog-shops,  as  they  are  called ;  as  I  can  assert,  from  experience,  that 
they  are  kept  by  some  of  the  greatest  villains  on  earth.  I  had  much 
trouble  with  these  fellows  while  heaving  my  vessel  down  at  this  port  j 
as  they  enticed  a  great  part  of  my  crew  from  their  duty,  and  kept  them 
concealed  in  a  continued  state  of  intoxication,  at  a  time  when  I  most 
wanted  their  services. 

On  the  evening  before  I  sailed,  Thursday,  the  twenty-first,  one  of 
these  pulla-peree  men  came  to  me  and  said  that  he  knew  where  my 
men  were,  and  that  if  I  wished  it  he  would  take  a  guard  of  soldiers 
and  conduct  them  on  board.  I  readily  assented  to  the  proposition^ 
and  directed  him  to  get  them  on  board  as  soon  as  possible,  though  in 
a  state  of  intoxication.  They  were  accordingly  taken  on  board  at 
about  four,  P.  M. ;  and  at  five,  P.  M.,  the  same  villain  came  to  me 
while  I  was  on  shore  in  company  with  Captain  Hutchins,  and  told  me 
that  he  had  a  small  bill  against  some  of  my  crew.  I  took  the  bill,  and 
the  reader  may  guess  my  astonishment  on  finding  the  amount  to  be 
07ie  hundred  and  cighty-scveji  dollars  ! 

I  coolly  returned  him  the  accomit,  tellmg  him  he  must  bring  it  on 
board  in  the  morning,  as  I  could  not  discharge  it  till  the  men  had  ex- 
amined the  bill,  and  acknowledged  it  to  be  correct.    He  appeared 

II  3 


116  ADVENTURE  WITH  A  PULLA-PEREE  MAN.  [1823. 

satisfied  with  this  arrangement,  bade  me  good  night,  and  left  me.  I 
soon  after  went  on  board  the  scliooner ;  and  at  eleven,  P.  M.,  called 
the  crew  aft,  and  inquired  what  they  had  had  while  on  shore.  They  re- 
plied that  they  could  not  tell,  for  tliis  fellow  had  kept  them  out  in  the 
country  in  a  state  of  senseless  inebriation  all  the  time  they  had  beeu 
on  shore  ;  that  he  had  shown  them  a  written  paper,  purporting  to  be  a 
certificate  from  me  that  they  might  have  their  liberty  while  the  vessel 
was  in  port ;  and  that  I  had  ordered  him  to  let  them  have  whatever 
they  wanted  until  she  was  ready  for  sea  ! 

This  candid  statement  of  the  delinquents  confirmed  what  I  had  pre- 
viously learned  from  the  Spaniards  respecting  this  man ;  I  therefore 
at  once  determined  not  to  submit  to  such  a  shameful  imposition.  But 
knowing  tlie  imbecility  of  the  civil  authority,  I  concluded  that  it  was 
worse  than  useless  to  look  for  legal  protection ;  I  therefore  resolved  to 
leave  the  port  during  that  night.  Accordingly,  at  two,  A.  M.,  when  a 
light  air  sprang  up  from  the  south,  I  called  all  hands,  muffled  the  palls 
of  the  windlass,  ran  the  anchor  up  to  the  bows,  got  out  the  sweeps, 
and  swept  the  vessel  out  of  the  harbour  ;  by  which  time  it  was  day- 
light, and  a  dead  calm. 

August  22d. — A  little  after  daylight  I  saw  a  boat  coming  round  the 
point,  full  of  soldiers  well  armed,  about  thirty  in  number.  Having  ex- 
pected the  visit,  I  was  fully  prepared  to  receive  them.  All  hands  were 
at  quarters,  the  guns  double-shotted  with  canister  and  grape,  and  all 
the  muskets  and  boarding-pikes  were  on  deck. 

As  soon  as  the  boat  came  within  hail,  I  ran  up  the  star-spangled 
banner,  and  demanded  of  them  what  they  wanted.  They  immediately 
lay  upon  their  oars,  while  the  pulla-peree  gentleman  assumed  the 
office  of  spokesman,  and  said  he  must  have  either  his  money  or  the 
men  who  owed  it.  In  reply,  I  reminded  him  of  his  villany,  and  that 
we  were  now  five  miles  from  the  port,  with  a  legal  clearance  from  the 
custom-house ;  assured  him  that  I  neither  knew  the  party,  nor  would 
acknowledge  any  claims  which  they  might  pretend  to  have  against  the 
Wasp  ;  that  my  men  were  under  the  protection  of  my  guns  and  the 
flag  of  my  coimtry ;  and,  finally,  that  if  they  advanced  their  boat's 
length  nearer  to  the  schooner,  the  account  would  very  quickly  be  settled 
with  hard,  if  not  with  precious  metal. 

Suiting  the  action  to  the  word,  every  gun  was  immediately  pointed 
for  the  boat.  This  manoeuvre  was  sufficient  for  our  doughty  assail- 
ants. The  word  among  them  was  instantly  "  Stern,  all  /"  and  they 
lost  no  time  in  pulling  to  a  respectful  distance  ;  and  no  doubt  con- 
sidered themselves  very  fortunate  in  being  permitted  to  return  to  the 
shore  in  as  good  health  as  they  left  it. 

At  about  ten,  A.  M.,  we  took  a  breeze  from  south -by-west,  with  fair 
weather,  when  we  shaped  mu-  course  for  the  islands  of  St.  Ambrose 
and  St.  Felix.  During  this  passage  we  were  often  surrounded  by 
sperm  and  right  whales,  porpoises,  d-olphins,  bonettas,  skipjacks, 
sharks,  and  pilot-fish.  -\ 

August  2Dth. — On  Monday,  the  twenty -fifth  of  August,  at  two,  P.  M., 
we  arrived  at  the  island  of  St.  Ambrose,  and  sent  the  boats  on  shore 
m  search  of  seal.     They  returned  at  seven,  P.  M.,  with  eighty-seven 


Aug.]  ST.  AMBROSE  AND  ST.  FELIX.  117 

fur-seal  skins.  After  examining  this  island,  we  paid  a  similar  visit  on 
the  following  day  to  St.  Felix,  about  six  leagues  west-south-west  of  it, 
where  we  obtained  two  hundred  and  eleven  fur-seal  skins.  Here  also 
we  encountered  a  very  interesting  adventure,  with  which  I  shall  com- 
mence the  next  chapter.  In  the  mean  time  it  will  be  proper  to  give  the 
reader  some  idea  of  the  character  of  these  islands,  and  of  their  location. 

The  islands  of  St.  Ambrose  and  St.  Felix  lie  about  500  miles  north- 
west from  Port  Coquimbo,  and  nearly  the  same  distance  west  of  Co- 
piapo,  a  town  and  cape  on  the  coast  of  northern  Chili.  They  are 
north-north-west  of  the  island  of  Juan  Fernandez  about  one  hundred 
and  sixty  leagues,  being  in  latitude  26''  30'  S.,  long.  80°  0'  W. 

As  before  intimated,  St.  Ambrose  is  the  most  easterly  of  these  two 
islands,  and  is  about  five  miles  in  circumference.  On  the  north  side 
there  is  a  fine  snug  little  cove  for  a  boat,  and  a  good  landing  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year,  with  the  wind  blowing  from  any  southerly  point 
between  east  and  west.  But  it  is  difficult  to  obtain  fresh  water  from 
this  landing.  About  the  centre  of  the  north  side,  however,  there  is  a 
still  better  landing,  where  fresh  water  of  an  excellent  quality  may  be 
had  in  any  quantity  from  a  pond  on  the  top  of  the  island,  or  table-land, 
and  led  down  to  the  boats  by  means  of  a  hose,  without  any  trouble. 
Small  as  this  island  is,  it  can  boast  of  a  mountain  -which  rises  about 
three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  from  its  base,  with  vegetation  on  its  summit 
and  sides,  where  grow  many  kinds  of  plants  and  shrubs.  A  few  seals 
of  the  fur  kind  are  found  on  the  shores  of  this  island. 

The  island  of  St.  Felix,  which  lies  farther  west,  is  about  the  same 
size  as  the  one  just  described,  and  is  elevated  about  three  hundred 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  On  its  west  and  south-west  sides  it 
presents  nothmg  to  the  eye  but  steep  perpendicular  cliffs  ;  but  there  is 
a  place  for  landing  on  the  north-west  side,  about  one-fourth  of  a  mile 
eastward  of  the  north-west  head  or  bluff.  Here,  in  a  sort  of  gully, 
you  may  land  on  a  flat  rock  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  ;  but  on  the 
beaches  at  the  north  and  east  sides  of  the  island  the  landing  is  dan- 
gerous, as  the  shores  are  very  steep.  But  after  you  have  landed,  there 
is  nothing  in  the  prospect  to  repay  you  for  the  trouble.  The  island 
is  entirely  destitute  of  grass,  verdure,  or  vegetable  productions  of  any 
description ;  the  whole  being  a  barren  sun-burnt  surface,  diversified 
only  with  rocks  and  sand. 

This  island  is  mostly  visited  by  sailors  for  the  purpose  of  taking  seal- 
skins, the  fur  of  which  is  of  a  very  good  quality.  It  is  also  a  fine  place 
to  gather  the  eggs  of  aquatic  birds,  and  to  catch  fish,  which  are  play- 
ing round  the  shores  in  great  abundance.  A  man  may  stand  on  the 
rocks  at  the  landing,  with  line  and  hook,  baited  with  the  flesh  of  seals 
or  birds,  and  load  a  boat  with  crawfish  in  half  a  day.  Eggs  of  aquatic 
birds  may  be  gathered  in  any  quantity  during  the  months  of  December 
and  January  on  both  these  islands.  Those  of  the  shag  and  the  gannet 
are  nearly  equal  to  hens'  eggs  in  taste.  There  are  no  dangers  near 
either  of  these  islands  two  cables'-length  from  shore.  Both  of  them 
are  evidently  of  volcanic  origin,  the  rocks  showing  every  mark  of  hav- 
ing once  been  in  a  state  of  fusion,  and  pumice-stones  are  found  on 
different  parts  of  the  islands. 


118  A  DISCOVERY— INEXCUSABLE  BARBARITY.         [1823. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

A  Disco\'^ry — Inexcusable  Barbarity — Hopeless  Sufferings  and  joyful  Preserva- 
tion— Lobos  Afuero — Lobos  de  Terra — Indian  Catamarans,  and  I3alzas — River 
and  Town  of  Tumbes — Pizarro  in  Peru — Port  and  Town  of  Tacames — Nat- 
ural Productions— Volcanic  Mountains — Height  of  Chimborazo — Cities  of  Quito 
and  Cuzco — Monuments  of  ancient  Splendour — Walls  of  the  Temple  of  the 
Sun  still  standing — Ruins  of  the  Incas' Palace— Gallapagos  Islands — Elephant 
Tortoises— IslaiKi  of  Juan  Fernandez — Natural  Productions — Escape  of  the 
Convicts— Alexander  Selkirk,  or  Robinson  Crusoe. 

While  standing  in  for  the  island  of  St.  Felix,  my  attention  was  ar- 
rested by  the  appearance  of  a  flag  or  signal  from  the  top  of  the  island ; 
which,  on  approaching  nearer,  I  concluded  to  be  a  sailor's  shirt  fastened 
to  a  pole.  In  a  few  minutes  afterward  the  man  at  the  mast-head  re- 
ported that  he  could  distinguish  several  persons  near  the  signal-pole, 
making  strong  gesticulations,  as  if  anxious  to  attract  our  attention. 
The  idea  of  shipwrecked  sufferers  on  a  desert  island,  pleading  for 
s'uccour,  now  very  naturally  occurred  to  our  minds,  and  we  lost  no  time 
in  making  a  favourable  reply  to  their  signals. 

As  soon  as  we  had  approached  sufficiently  near  the  island  I  hove- 
to,  and  ordered  the  boats  to  be  lowered,  manned,  and  furnished  with 
refreshments  of  every  kind.  As  soon  as  these  movements  were  per- 
ceived by  the  men  on  shore,  they  evinced  the  most  extravagant  sensa- 
tions of  joy,  which  seemed  to  increase  as  the  boats  approached  the 
shore.  The  interview  between  these  poor  fellows  and  their  deliverers 
was  such  as  might  be  expected  under  such  circumstances,  a  brief  de- 
tail of  which  was  soon  furnished  by  the  sufferers,  in  substance  as 
follows : — 

The  schooner  Francisco,  Captain  Van  Doras,  had  sailed  from  Val- 
paraiso on  a  sealing  voyage,  and  touched  at  these  islands  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  month  of  May,  three  months  previous  to  our  arrival.  The 
captain  concluded  to  leave  five  of  his  crew  on  the  island  of  St.  Felix, 
to  take  seal-skins,  while  he  proceeded  with  the  vessel  to  some  other 
place,  on  the  same  business.  He  left  with  them  suffi.cient  water  and 
provisions  to  last  three  weeks,  pledging  himself  to  be  back  in  a  fort- 
night, and  take  them  off.  They  went  cheerfully  to  work,  and  faith- 
fully performed  the  duties  assigned  them  for  fourteen  days,  at  the  ex- 
piration of  which  they  began  to  look  out  for  the  return  of  the  vessel ; 
but  they  looked  in  vain.  Another  week  elapsed,  and  they  began  to 
grow  alarmed. 

Their  provisions  and  water  were  now  nearly  all  exhausted ;  and 
nothing  like  a  sail  could  be  seen  in  the  circling  horizon  which  bounded 
tlie  vast  waste  of  waters  that  surrounded  the  island.  Day  after  day 
passed  by,  and  their  situation  became  desperate.  The  horrid  idea  of, 
being  purposely  left  here  to  perish  irresistibly  fastened  itself  on  their 


Sept.]  LOBOS  AFUERO  AND  LOBOS  DE  TERRA.  ug 

minds,  and  plunged  them  into  a  state  of  hopelessness,  bordering  on 
despair.  Their  food  now  consisted  of  raw  fish,  and  the  flesh  of  seals 
and  birds  dried  in  the  sun,  not  having  the  means  of  making  a  fire  to 
cook  it.  Three  months  had  now  passed  away,  and  nothing  had  oc- 
curred to  revive  their  dying  hopes.  In  a  few  weeks  more  their  suffer- 
ings would  probably  have  terminated  in  a  lingering  death. 

But  where  was  the  inhuman  wretch  who  had  abandoned  them  to 
this  dreadful  fate  ?  I  was  afterward  informed  that  he  proceeded  from 
this  island  to  Callao,  in  Peru,  where  he  plunged  into  a  course  of  dissi- 
pation and  excesses  which  effectually  drove  every  thought  of  business 
or  humanity  from  his  mind ;  until  he  at  length  awoke  from  the  bewil- 
dering dream,  a  ruined  and  degraded  man. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  state  that  these  unfortunate  men  were  re- 
ceived on  board  the  Wasp,  and  treated  as  duty  and  humanity  dictated, 
for  which  their  gratitude  was  unbounded.  Some  of  them  returned  with 
me  to  the  United  States  ;  the  others  being  left,  at  their  own  request, 
in  different  ports  on  the  coast  of  Chili.  The  names  of  the  five  were, 
William  Golden,  or  Golding,  Joseph  Alexander,  Peleg  Wilber,  John 
Stewart,  and  Hugh  Hill. 

August  2Sth. — On  Thursday,  at  7,  P.  M.,  after  hoisting  up  the  boats, 
and  securing  them  in  the  cranes,  we  filled  away,  and  steered  for  the 
%veather  (or  southern)  Lobos,  with  a  light  breeze  from  the  south-south- 
east, and  fair  weather.  The  next  day,  at  10,  A.  M.,  being  in  lat. 
25^  2'  S.,  long.  79°  41'  W.,  we  found  the  variation  per  azimuth  9°  52' 
easterly.  We  continued  standing  to  the  north,  with  alternate  light  winds 
and  calms,  for  more  than  ten  days,  without  meeting  any  occurrence 
worth  recording. 

September  9th, — We  amved  at  Lobos  Afuero,  or  outer  Lobos,  on 
Tuesday,  and  at  1,  P.  M.,  we  anchored  in  six  fathoms  of  water,  sandy 
bottom,  in  a  fine  harbour,  on  the  north-west  side  of  the  island ;  and  at 
2,  P.  M.,  sent  the  boats  on  shore  m  search  of  seals,  whieh  returned  at 
7,  P.  M.,  with  only  twenty-eight  fur-skins,  being  all  that  could  be  pro- 
cured here  at  this  time.  • 

This  island  is  in  lat.  6°  59'  S.,  long.  80°  42'  W.  The  harbour  is 
fine  and  commodious,  in  which  fifty  ships  might  lie  in  safety  all  the 
year  round.  Those  who  wish  to  anchor  here  should  pass  to  the  south 
of  the  island,  then  haul  round  the  west  end  towards  the  north  until 
the  bay  opens,  when  they  may  beat  up  the  harbour  in  safety,  by  keep- 
ing a  look-out  for  a  single  rock  in  the  north  part  of  the  bay,  nearly 
midv/ay  between  its  two  outer  points,  but  rather  inclining  to  the 
north  point.  This  rock  may  be  timely  discovered  from  the  mast-head, 
though  it  is  covered  seven  feet  deep  at  low  water.  Ships  should  not 
approach  the  eastern  part  of  this  island  nearer  than  a  mile,  there  being 
several  sunken  rocks  in  that  direction.  Fish  may  be  caught  here  in 
abundance,  and  eggs  are  plenty  in  the  proper  season.  The  island  is 
moderately  elevated,  may  be  seen  six  or  seven  leagues  in  clear  weather, 
and  has  a  rugged  appearance,  without  vegetation  or  fresh  water,  except 
during  the  rainy  season. 

September  10 th. — We  next  visited  the  inner  or  northern  island, 
ualled  Lobos  de  Terra,  where  we  anchored  on  Wednesday,  at  7,  A.  M.f 


120  INDIAN  CATAMARANS  AND  BALZAS.  [1823^ 

in  four  lathoms  of  water,  at  the  head  of  a  small  bay,  on  the  north  part 
of  the  island.     At  8,  A.  M.,  sent  the  boats  in  search  of  seals. 

This  island  is  in  latitude  6°  34'  S.,  long.  80""  45'  W.,  variation  8^ 
45'  easterly.  On  the  north  side  is  a  safe  and  convenient  harbour, 
formed  by  an  island  of  considerable  length  on  the  west,  separated  by 
a  very  narrow  passage,  suitable  only  for  boats.  The  south  end  of  this 
small  island  forms  the  south  and  west  parts  of  the  harbour.  This  is  a 
delightful  bay,  with  smooth  water,  level  beach,  and  pleasant  prospects. 
An  abundance  of  eggs  can  be  obtained  here  in  the  month  of  Decem- 
ber, from  the  rookeries  of  aquatic  birds.  Lobos  de  Terra  is  much 
longer  than  the  southern  or  outer  Lobos ;  its  surface  is  not  so  much 
elevated,  but  more  even  and  level.  There  are  not  so  many  rocks  and 
islets  around  it,  and  it  is  more  free  from  dangers.  Fur  and  hair-seals 
are  found  here  in  considerable  numbers  ;  and  a  variety  of  scale-fish 
may  be  caught  wdtli  hook  and  line.  It  lies  seven  leagues  from  the 
mainland,  from  whence  it  may  always  be  seen  in  clear  weather. 

The  Indians  from  the  continent  visit  these  islands  every  year,  for  the 
purpose  of  sealing  and  fishing,  and  gathering  eggs,  which  they  sell  on 
the  main.  They  come  hither  on  a  kind  of  raft,  well  known  on  this 
coast  by  the  term  catamaran.  This  craft  is  composed  of  a  number  of 
large  logs  of  a  light  and  buoyant  nature,  lashed  together  with  cordage 
made  of  a  certain  species  of  grass.  They  are  generally  from  twenty 
to  twenty-five  feet  in  length,  and  sometimes  even  fifty  feet.  In  the 
middle  there  is  raised  a  kind  of  box,  three  or  four  feet  in  height,  for  the 
better  security  of  the  mast,  which  is  stepped  in  the  centre  bottom  log. 
They  have  likewise  a  short  bowsprit  rigged  out  forward,  to  which  the 
tack  of  the  sail  is  fastened.  The  latter  is  nearly  square,  and  bent  to 
a  yard,  by  which  it  is  hoisted  to  the  mast,  the  halliards  being  bent  on 
to  the  yard  about  one-third  of  the  distance  from  the  forward  end ;  the 
other  end,  abaft  the  mast,  being  always  tlie  longest  and  the  most 
elevated.  The  tack  of  the  sail  is  then  hauled  dov/n  to  the  extremity 
of  the  bowsprit ;  and  the  after-leach,  or  sheet,  is  hauled  aft,  in  the 
same  manner  as  a  ship's  main-sheet.  These  catamarans  are  steered 
with  large  wide-loomed  oars,  which  are  shipped  on  the  after  end  of 
the  logs,  about  tv/o  feet  high.  They  will  beat  to  windward  like  a  pilot 
boat,  and  I  have  seen  them  fifty  miles  from  land.  This  is  the  only  way 
the  Indians  transport  their  produce  to  market  at  the  different  towns 
along  the  coast. 

They  have  likewise  an  ingeniously  constructed  machine,  somewhat 
similar  to  the  life-buoy,  which  the  Spaniards  call  halzas ;  made  of 
skins  sewed  together,  and  filled  with  air.  Two  of  these  wind-bags 
are  lashed  together,  and  a  small  board  placed  across  them  in  the  centre, 
on  which  they  sit  to  paddle.  Embarked  on  these  air-bubbles,  they  will 
pass  through  a  very  heavy  surf  with  the  greatest  ease  and  safety. 
They  are  principally  used  in  fishing  along  the  coast. 

The  Indians  sometimes  visit  these  islands  in  large  parties,  on  fishing 
excursions  or  frolics  ;  and  frequently  stay  three  or  four  weeks.  I  have 
always  found  them  to  be  very  civil  and  accommodating ;  having  fre- 
quently received  kind  ofliices  at  their  hands,  such  as  presents  of  fruit, 
vegetables,  &;c.  from  the  main.     They  always  bring  their  fresh  water 


♦Sept.]  RIVER  AXD  TOWN  OF  TUMBEZ.  121 

■with  them  in  these  catamarans,  as  there  is  none  to  be  found  on  the 
islands,  which  are  covered  with  sand,  rocks,  and  the  dung  of  aquatic 
birds  :  the  latter  sufficient  to  load  thousands  of  ships,  having  been  ac- 
cumulating for  untold  ages.  It  is  called  guannar  by  the  Spaniards, 
and  is  probably  the  richest  manure  in  the  world. 

There  are  many  different  sorts  of  birds  here ;  but  few  of  them  are 
of  any  value  except  for  their  eggs.  The  flesh  of  one  kind,  however, 
is  very  palatable,  and  I  have  frequently  found  it  a  valuable  acquisition 
to  the  table.  This  is  called  the  razor-bill,  because  the  bill  of  the  bird 
bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  the  implement  for  shaving.  It  is  about 
the  size  of  a  small  teal,  perfectly  black,  shy  of  man,  and  very  social, 
being  always  found  in  flocks.  All  the  large  birds  here  form  their 
rookeries  on  the  plains  of  level  white  sand  ;  and  v/hen  viewed  from  our 
anchorage,  have  the  appearance  of  two  armies  within  a  short  distance 
of  each  other.  One  kind  of  these  birds  are  called  boobies,  and  they 
always  associate  together  in  their  rookeries :  they  have  a  very  white 
face,  neck,  and  breast,  but  the  back  part  of  the  head  and  back  is  black, 
giving  them,  at  a  distance,  somewhat  of  a  military  appearance.  The 
pelicans  are  another  kind  which  associate  in  rookeries,  and  are  very 
large,  moving  about  with  their  heads  elevated,  in  martial  order.  The 
latter  are  called  the  Russian  army,  while  the  former  are  called  the  army 
of  Bonaparte. 

September  lotli. — We  remained  at  the  Lobos  de  Terra,  constantly 
employed  in  the  incidental  duties  of  a  sealing  voyage,  mitil  Sunday, 
the  14th  ;  when,  at  seven,  P.  M.,  we  again  got  under  way,  and  steered 
for  the  river  Tumbez,  with  a  light  breeze  from  south-south-east,  and 
fair  weather.  On  the  following  day,  at  eleven,  A.  M.,  we  entered  this 
celebrated  river,  in  lat.  a""  13'  S.,'long.  80^  3'  W;  variation  S^  13' 
easterly.  I  call  it  a  celebrated  river,  because  in  the  year  1526  Pizarro 
first  landed  on  its  banks  with  that  mercenary  army  of  Spaniards  who 
committed  so  many  wanton  depredations  on  the  inoffensive  natives  of 
Peru.  The  romance  of  history  has  derived  some  of  its  most  brilliant 
and  interesting  incidents  from  the  details  of  that  campaign ;  and  the 
country  lying  between  this  river  and  the  ancient  city  of  Quito  has  been 
rendered  classic  ground  by  the  magic  pens  of  Kotzebue,  Sheridan,  and 
other  dramatists. 

The  river  Tumbez  rises  near  the  Cordilleras  of  the  Andes,  and  dis- 
charges itself  into  the  Bay  of  Guayaquil,  nearly  opposite  the  island 
of  St.  Clara.  Its  banks  are  said  to  be  well  cultivated  by  the  native 
Indians,  mestezoes,  mulattoes,  and  some  Spaniards,  who  here  pursue 
their  rural  occupations,  watering  their  grounds  from  the  river.  The 
heat  is  excessive,  nor  have  they  any  rain  for  several  months  in  succes- 
sion ;  but  when  it  once  begins  to  fall,  it  continues  through  the  winter 
season.  This  river  forms  the  northern  boundary  of  the  Peruvian 
coast.  There  is  a  bar  before  its  entrance,  on  which  the  surf  generally 
runs  high,  which  makes  it  difficult  watering  here  from  the  river,  and 
the  water  is  brackish  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  entrance.  Barks, 
boats,  balzas,  and  canoes  navigate  this  river ;  but  it  is  dangerous  going 
up  in  the  winter  season,  as  the  natural  impetuosity  of  its  current  is 
ihen  much  increased  by  torrents  from  the  mountams. 


122  PORT  AND  TOWN  OF  TAG  AMES.  [1823. 

The  to^^^l  of  Tunibez  is  about  six  miles  inland,  and  here,  according 
10  Spanish  accounts,  once  stood  a  superb  temple  of  the  sun,  an  inca's 
palace,  and  other  splendid  edifices,  not  a  vestige  of  which  are  now  to 
be  seen ;  but  in  their  places  wave  aged  forests  of  heavy  limber.  The 
present  town  contains  about  three  thousand  inhabitants,  who  are 
mostly  poor,  but  industrious.  I  have  ever  found  them  a  very  pleasant 
and  obliging  people,  constantly  employed  in  rural  occupations,  and 
their  plantations  are  generally  productive.  Vegetables  of  all  kinds 
may  be  procured  here,  but  the  prices  are  high.  The  soil  produces 
cocoa,  corn,  melons,  oranges,  sugar-cane,  sweet-potatoes,  pumpkins, 
plantains,  &;c.  The  houses  are  formed  of  reeds,  covered  with  rushes, 
open  at  all  sides,  and  having  the  floor  elevated  about  four  feet  from 
the  earth,  to  protect  them  from  the  alligators,  which  are  numerous  in 
the  river,  and  of  a  large  size. 

September  \6tk. — Finding  that  we  could  not  obtain  the  necessary 
supplies  in  this  place  without  paying  an  exorbitant  price,  a  due  regard 
to  the  interest  of  my  owners  induced  me,  on  Tuesday,  the  16th,  to  sail 
for  Tacames,  a  port  about  eighty  leagues  farther  north,  and  fifty-two 
miles  north  of  the  equator,  wdiich  we  crossed,  under  a  vertical  sun,  on 
Sunday,  the  21st,  in  long.  80^  W. 

September  22c?. — On  the  following  day,  at  one  P.  M.,  we  anchored 
in  the  Bay  of  Tacames,  in  four  fathoms  of  water.  In  running  for  this 
port,  a  ship  should  endeavour  to  make  Cape  St.  Francisco,  in  lat.  00^ 
42'  N.,  long.  79°  39'  W. ;  variation  7°  51'  easterly.  The  land  of  the 
coast,  to  the  southward  of  this  cape,  forms  an  extensive  height ;  from 
which  there  are  many  rocky  shoals  running  off  some  distance  from  the 
shore,  particularly  about  the  vicinity  of  the  village  of  Arcol.  By 
keeping  two  leagues  off-shore,  however,  all  dangers  may  be  avoided, 
and  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  fathoms  of  water  secured. 

Off  Cape  St.  Francisco  there  are  a  number  of  small  rocks,  which  ex- 
tend to  the  northward  as  far  as  Cape  Galera,  about  which  point  the 
land  is  not  very  high.  Here  the  wind  commonly  blows  from  the  south, 
between  the  months  of  April  and  December,  from  midday  to  seven  or 
eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  quite  fresh. 

From  Point  Galera,  north-east-by-east-half-east,  distant  about  five 
leagues,  lies  Tacames,  or  Attacames,  a  small  seaport  town,  in  the 
south  part  of  the  republic  of  Colombia.  Here  vessels  will  find  good 
anchorage  and  safe  shelter,  a  little  to  the  eastward  of  a  rock  that  lies 
on  the  w^est  side  of  the  bay,  about  two  cables'  length  from  the  shore, 
rising  nearly  seventy-five  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  best  watering-place  is  in  a  small  river  on  the  west  side  of  the 
bay,  at  the  mouth  of  which,  on  the  last  of  the  ebb,  water-casks  may 
be  filled,  not  more  than  three-fourths  of  a  mile  from  the  ship.  This  is 
also  the  best  place  to  cut  wood,  which  may  be  procured  in  any  quan- 
tity at  the  mouth  of  this  river.  The  water  taken  from  this  stream  is 
of  an  excellent  quality  for  long  voyages,  no  other  having  ever,  to  my 
knowledge,  kept  sweet  and  pure  so  long. 

The  town  of  Tacames  is  small,  containing  about  five  hundred  in- 
habitants, the  construction  of  whose  habitations  is  somewhat  singular, 
tut  well  adapted  to  the  climate  and  other  localities.    They  are  built 


Sept.]  TACAMES—CHIMBORAZO— QUITO.  12  3 

similar  to  those  of  New-Guinea,  being  elevated  upon  posts,  about  ten 
feet  from  the  ground,  and  consisting  of  only  one  storj\  On  the  posts 
or  stakes  driven  into  the  earth,  which  support  the  building,  the  floor  is 
laid,  above  which  most  of  the  materials  are  bamboos.  The  roof  is 
thatched  with  a  kind  of  long  grass  that  is  common  in  this  countrj-. 
Each  house  has  one  door  only,  which  is  entered  by  means  of  a  ladder, 
the  latter  being  hauled  up  into  the  house  every  night,  when  the  family 
is  about  retiring  to  rest,  to  prevent  their  being  disturbed  by  wild  ani- 
mals, with  which  this  part  of  the  country  abounds. 

The  soil  is  very  fertile,  and  yields  two  crops  a  year ;  so  that  vege- 
tables and  fruit  are  always  plenty  in  the  town  of  Tacames.  The 
temperature  is  like  that  of  Guayaquil,  and  accordingly  it  produces  the 
same  kind  of  fruit,  grain,  and  vegetables  ;  some  of  them  in  greater 
perfection,  on  account  of  its  more  elevated  situation.  It  likewise  pro- 
duces, in  great  abundance,  vanillas,  balsams,  achote,  copal,  cocoa, 
sarsaparilla,  tobacco,  and  indigo.  Considerable  quantities  of  wax  are 
made  here ;  and  the  forests  of  tlic  country  afford  a  great  variety  of 
trees,  of  large  size  and  lofty  height,  fit  for  naval  and  domestic  pur- 
poses, including  many  rare  and  valuable  woods.  They  likewise  pro- 
cure a  considerable  quantity  of  gold-dust  from  the  streams  of  the  moun- 
tains, besides  many  valuable  minerals.  Notwithstanding  the  ample 
resources  of  this  place,  however,  it  has  hitherto  been  very  Ihtle  fre- 
quented by  nautical  adventurers,  either  for  trade  or  refreshment.  ' 

The  country  between  the  river  Tumbes  and  Tacames  exhibits 
several  mountains  of  a  volcanic  character ;  but  that  part  of  the  Cor- 
dilleras of  the  Andes  abounds  with  them.  Here  rises  the  celebrated 
Chimborazo,  an  immense  cone,  that  can  be  seen  far  into  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  presenting  to  the  eye  of  the  mariner  a  most  magnificent  object. 
It  rises,  according  to  Humboldt,  to  twenty-one  thousand  four  hundred 
and  forty  feet.  That  illustrious  traveller  ascended  its  slope  as  high 
as  nineteen  thousand  three  hundred  feet,  the  highest  point  on  the  globe 
ever  ascended  to  by  man.  It  is  covered,  for  several  thousand  feet,  by 
perpetual  snow,  and  generally  surrounded  by  fogs.  Were  Mount 
iEtna  placed  on  the  summit  of  Canigou,  or  were  St.  Gothard  piled  on 
the  top  of  the  peak  of  Teneriffe,  the  mighty  Chimborazo  would  still 
raise  his  snow-crowned  head  above  them.  The  native  Peruvians, 
however,  have  a  tradition  that  another  mountain  in  that  neighbourhood 
was  once  even  more  elevated  than  Chimborazo.  This  was  the  altar- 
mountain,  called  by  them  Copa-urcu.  But  that  after  a  continual 
eruption  of  eight  years,  it  gradually  sank  to  a  lower  altitude.  In 
proof  of  this  fact,  the  top  of  the  mountain  presents,  in  its  inclined 
peaks,  nothing  but  the  traces  of  destruction. 

About  one  hundred  miles  north-east  of  Chimborazo  stands  the 
celebrated  city  of  Quito,  the  ancient  capital  of  the  incas.  It  is  built 
on  the  elevated  volcanic  region  of  Pichincha,  nine  thousand  five  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  level  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  is  the  most  elevated 
large  city  of  the  globe,  and  the  inhabitants  formerly  enjoyed  a  mild 
and  equal  temperature  of  atmosphere,  unrivalled  in  any  other  quarter 
of  the  world.     But  the  dreadful  earthquake  of  the  4th  of  February, 


124  QUITO— GALL.\PAGOS  ISLANDS.  [1823. 

1797,  whicli  overwhelmed  the  entire  provmce  of  Quito,  and  destroyed 
in  a  single  instant  40,000  people,  seems  to  have  entii-ely  changed  the 
character  of  the  climate. 

Previous  to  this  horrible  event,  Quito  was  blest  with  a  perpetual 
spring  in  her  mountain  eyrie,  though  situated  nearly  under  the  equator. 
Since  that  period,  however,  the  atmosphere  has  become  cloudy  and 
lowering,  and  the  cold  at  times  severe,  Avhile  earthquakes  are  con- 
tinually agitating  the  devoted  city.  But  "  notwithstanding  the  horrors 
and  the  dangers  with  which  nature  has  thus  suiTOunded  them,  the 
population  of  Quito,  amounting  to  50,000  individuals,  breathes  nothing 
but  gayety  and  luxury  ;  and  nowhere,  perhaps,  does  there  reign  a  more 
decided  or  a  more  general  taste  for  pleasure.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
town  are  lively  and  amiable."* 

The  city  of  Quito  still  retains,  it  is  said,  many  monuments  of  its 
ancient  splendour,  while  the  country  was  under  the  government  of  the 
incas,  and  previous  to  its  being  conquered  and  partially  devastated  by 
the  Spaniards,  under  the  ambitious  and  ferocious  Don  Francisco 
Pizarro.  The  city  of  Cuzco,  also,  the  ancient  capital  of  Peru,  is  said 
to  exhibit  several  antiquities  of  this  character ;  of  which  the  fortress 
of  the  incas  is  considered  to  be  not  the  least  remarkable.  The  walls 
of  the  temple  of  the  sun  are  still  standing,  having  been  converted 
into  a  Dominican  monastery,  the  altar  of  which  occupies  the  precise 
spot  where  the  golden  image  of  the  bright  luminary  was  formerly 
adored.  The  residence  of  the  virgins  of  the  sun  has  been  converted 
into  a  dwelling  for  the  nuns  of  Cuzco,  some  of  whom  may  possibly 
dream  of  Rollas  and  Alonzos,  less  noble  and  virtuous  than  the  lover 
and  the  husband  of  Cora. 

At  Caxamarca,  the  capital  of  a  territory  of  the  same  name,  on  the 
river  Tunguragua,  are  still  to  be  seen  the  remains  of  the  palace  of  the 
imfortunate  inca  Atahualpa,  who  was  strangled  by  order  of  Pizarro, 
after  having  been  plundered  of  immense  treasures,  which  the  friends 
of  the  unhappy  captive  had  collected  for  his  ransom !  The  ruins  of 
this  palace  are  still  inhabited  by  a  poor  family  that  claims  the  honour 
of^  being  lineally  descended  from  the  incas. 

September  21th. — Having  received  on  board  a  sufficient  supply  of 
such  vegetables  and  other  refreshments  as  our  circumstances  required, 
together  with  an  adequate  quantity  of  wood  and  water,  we  took  our 
leave  of  the  friendly  inhabitants  of  Tacames,  and  directed  our  course 
to  the  Gallapagos  Islands,  where  we  arrived  on  the  3d  of  October. 

This  archipelago  is  situated  under  the  equator,  about  two  hundred 
and  twenty  leagues  west  of  the  American  continent,  between  the 
meridians  of  eighty-nine  and  ninety-two,  west  of  Greenwich.  It  com- 
prises a  large  group  of  uninhabited  islands,  which  were  first  discovered 
by  the  Spaniards,  and  afterward  explored  by  those  celebrated  naviga- 
tors Vancouver,  Colnett,  and  Hall,  to  whom  we  are  indebted  for  an 
accurate  knowledge  of  their  several  situations.  Thirteen  of  these 
islands,  being  the  prmcipal  ones  of  the  group  in  size  and  importance, 
have  been  named  as  follows : — Chatham,  Hood's,  Chaiies's,  Indefati-^ 

*  M.  Ma]te  Bnin. 


Sept.]  ELEPHANT  TORTOISES.  125 

gable,  James's,  Albemarle,  Narborongh's,  Abingdon,  Bindloe's,  Tower's, 
Wenman's,  Culpepper's,  and  Barrington's. 

The  name  of  this  archipelago  is  derived  from  the  Spanish  word 
^^  galapago,'^  a  fresh-water  tortoise,  and  it  was  given  to  these  islands 
because  they  abound  with  the  largest  class  of  those  animals,  a  species 
of  terrapin,  to  which  Commodore  Porter  gave  the  name  of  "  elephant 
tortoise^''  as  their  legs,  feet,  and  motions  strongly  resemble  those  of 
an  elephant.  "  Many  of  them,"  says  he,  "  are  of  a  size  to  weigh  up- 
wards of  three  hundred  weight ;  and  nothing,  perhaps,  can  be  more 
disagreeable  or  clumsy  than  they  are  in  their  external  appearance. 
Their  steps  are  slow,  regular,  and  heavy ;  they  carry  their  bodies 
about  a  foot  from  the  ground ;  their  neck  is  from  eighteen  inches  to 
two  feet  in  length,  and  very  slender ;  their  head  is  proportioned  to  it, 
and  strongly  resembles  that  of  a  serpent.  But  what  seems  the  most 
extraordinary  in  this  animal,  is  the  length  of  time  that  it  can  exist 
without  food ;  for  I  have  been  well  assured,"  continues  the  commo- 
dore, ''  that  they  have  been  piled  away  among  casks,  in  the  hold  of  a 
ship,  where  they  have  been  kept  eighteen  months,  and  when  killed  at 
the  expiration  of  that  time,  were  found  to  have  suffered  no  diminution 
in  fatness  or  excellence.  They  carry  with  them  a  constant  supply  of 
water,  in  a  bag  at  the  root  of  the  neck,  which  contains  about  two  gal- 
lons ;  and  on  tasting  that  found  in  those  we  killed  on  board,  it  proved 
perfectly  fresh  and  sweet.  They  are  very  restless  when  exposed  to 
the  light  and  heat  of  the  sun,  but  Avill  lie  in  the  dark  from  one  year's 
end  to  the  other,  without  moving."* 

I  shall  embrace  this  occasion  to  add  my  feeble  testimony  to  the 
correctness  of  Commodore  Porter's  statements  generally,  during  his 
interesting  and  glorious  cruise  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  in  the  years  1812, 
1813,  and  1814.  His  descriptions  of  various  parts  of  the  coast  and 
islands  have  much  assisted  me  in  my  subsequent  visits  to  the  same 
places,  and  may  be  depended  upon  as  correct,  particularly  as  regards 
his  remarks  on  the  Gallapagos  Islands. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  these  islands  are  all  of  volcanic  origin ;  and 
have,  generally  speaking,  always  been  barren,  with  the  exception  of  a 
kind  of  stunted  brushwood  that  grew  upon  them.  But  of  late  years 
they  have  become  more  fertile,  both  the  upland  and  valleys  being  now 
tolerably  well  wooded,  over  a  good  and  rich  soil,  which  wants  nothing 
but  a  more  liberal  supply  of  moisture.  The  sides  of  hills  near  the 
shore  are  covered  with  prickly-pear-trees,  upon  which  the  land-tortoises 
feed  and  thrive  in  a  most  wonderful  manner.  These  animals  grow  to 
even  a  greater  size  than  that  mentioned  by  Commodore  Porter,  as  I  have 
seen  some  that  would  weigh  from  six  to  eight  hundred  pounds.  They 
are  excellent  food,  and  hare  no  doubt  saved  the  lives  of  thousands  of 
seamen  employed  in  the  whale-fishery  in  those  seas,  both  Americans 
and  Englishmen.  I  have  known  whale-ships  to  take  from  six  to  nina 
hundred  of  the  smallest  size  of  these  tortoises  on  board,  when  about 
leaving  the  islands  for  their  cruising  grounds ;  thus  providing  them- 
.^elves  with  fresh  provisions  for  six  or  eight  months,  and  securing  the 

*  Se«  Porter's  Journal,  p.  47. 


120  ISI^ND  OF  JUAN  FERNANDEZ.  [182i 

men  riKainst  the  scurvy.  1  have  had  tliosc  animals  on  bonril  my  own 
vessels  from  five  to  six  luonllis,  witlioiil  their  oneo  taking  food  or 
water;  and  on  killiM^  llieni  I  Iwive  loiind  more  than  a  (piarl  of  sweet 
I'resh  water  in  tlie  reeeptacU'  wliich  nature  lias  furnished  thorn  lor  tliat 
IMnpose,  wliih'  their  Ihsli  was  in  as  ^'ood  condition  as  wlien  1  first 
look  tliem  on  board.  They  liave  boon  known  to  live  on  hoard  of  some 
of  our  whale-sliips  for  fourteen  months,  under  similar  circumstanccsj 
without  atjy  aj)i)arent  diminution  of  health  or  weight. 

'I'lie  (Jailapaoos  Islands  have  heen  so  freijuenlly  and  so  aecurately 
(lcscril»(Ml,  hy  navigators  who  have  visited  them  solely  for  that  pur- 
pose, that  I  do  not  deem  it  necessary  to  detain  tlie  reader  with  any 
remarks  of  my  own,  exc(>pt  to  refer  him  to  the  following  authentic 
works,  in  which  he  will  fmd  all  the  necessary  sailing  directions,  in 
eoimexion  with  such  other  information  as  may  assist  a  stranger  in  ex- 
l)loring  this  interesting  archipelago,  viz.  Nora  Delano's  Voyages,  Van- 
couver's, Colnetl's,  Hall's,  l*orter's  .lournal,  <^c.  ' 

December  2(1. — We  renrained  among  these  islands  about  two  monllu?, 
during  whicli  period  we  took  ahoiil  live  thousand  hn*-seal  skins  ;  when, 
fmding  that  these  animals  had  abandoned  the  shores,  we  thought  it 
time  to  abandon  them  also.  Accordingly,  after  taking  on  board  on« 
Innuhed  of  the  elephant  tortoises,  which  complelely  covered  our  decks, 
we  got  under  way  on  Tuesday,  the  2d  of  December,  at  two  P.  M., 
and  took  our  {le()arture  from  (Charles's  Island,  slni])ing  our  course  for 
that  of  .luan  Fernandez,  once  the  solitary  residence  of  Alexander  Sel- 
kirk, alias  Kobinson  (Vusoe. 

'i'his  eelebr.ited  island  bears  about  south-soutli-east  from  tlie  Oalhi- 
pagos  grou|),  distant  seven  hundred  leagues.  'J'he  wind  now  blew 
iVom  till-  south-east,  a  fnu^  breeze,  and  lair  weather.  We  stood  to  tho 
south,  with  our  larboard  tacks  on  board;  and  for  several  days  after 
leaving  the  group  wo  had  a  steady  royal  breeze  from  east-south-cast 
to  soulii-soutli-east,  with  pleasant  weather,  occasionally  falling  in  com- 
pany with  sj)erm  whales.  In  lat.  10"  11'  S.,  long.  90°  13'  W.,  we 
"were  surrounded,  for  nearly  twenty-four  hours,  by  large  flocks  of  gan- 
nets;  but  on  reaching  lat.  I?''  21'  S.,  hnig.  <)()"  11'  W.,  we  saw  no 
more  of  ihcm  until  near  the  island  for  which  we  were  bound. 
I  Ja/utan/  VZ(h,  1824. — On  AVednesday,  the  2  llh  December,  we  lost 
the  soutli-east  trade-wind,  in  lat.  20°  0'  S.,  long.  91°  4'  W.,  and 
from  that  time  until  the  0th  Jaimary  we  had  a  contimiation  of  calms. 
A  fresh  breeze  then  visited  us  from  west-south-west,  which  wafted  us 
to  tho  easternmost  island  of  Juan  Fernandez,  where  wo  arrived  on 
Tuesday,  the  12th  day  of  January,  and  anchored  in  a  small  bay  on 
its  north-eastern  side,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,  in  live  fathoms 
of  wat(>r,  with  the  centre  of  the  village  bearing  west-by-north.  The 
boats  were  innncdialely  lowered,  and  the  water-casks  taken  on  shore 
to  the  watering-place,  on  the  north-west  side  of  the  bay,  where  there 
is  a  rivulet  of  fresh  water,  of  excellent  quality. 

The  two  islands  discovered  by  Juan  l''ernandcz,  in  loG3,  arc  about 
one  hundred  and  ten  leagues  from  the  continent,  bearing  nearly  west- 
by-south  from  Valparaiso.  The  largest  of  the  two,  or  Jiobinsoii 
Crusoe's  Island,  where  wc  were  now  watering,  is  nearest  to  the  main, 


Jan.]  ISLAND  OF  JUAN  FERNANDEZ  127 

and  is  therefore  called  by  the  Spaniards  Mas-a-ticrra,  or  "  near  the 
land,''*  while  the  other,  wliich  lies  three  leagues  farther  west,  is  termed 
in  the  Spanish  language  Mas-a-fuero,  signi/ying  '''-farther  o^,"  or  more 
remote.  It  was  to  the  eastern  or  largest  of  the  two  that  the  discoverer 
gave  his  own  name,  and  it  is  this  which  has  become  celebrated  both 
in  history  and  romance — in  geography  and  in  the  drama.  'I'his  island 
was  so  highly  spoken  of  f)y  the  early  navigators,  that  it  has  generally 
been  considered  an  earthly  paradise ;  but  when  we  say  that  it  is  a 
good  resting-place  for  ships,  it  receives  all  the  praise  that  sober  truth 
can  award  it.  It  has  been  occupied  for  more  than  half  a  century  by 
Spanish  settlers,  who  erected  a  battery  and  built  a  small  town  on  it. 
Since  the  revolution  in  South  America,  the  government  of  Chili  have 
converted  it  into  a  kind  of  state  prison,  sending  such  convicts  hither 
as  are  sentenced  to  hard  labour. 

The  island  of  Juan  Fernandez  is  in  latitude  .'33''  40'  S.,  long.  78^ 
58'  W.,  being  ninety  miles  eastward  of  Masafuero,  which  is  in  latitude 
38^  46'  S.,  long.  30"  38' W.  Variation  13'M2'  easterly.  .Juan  Fer- 
nandez is  of  very  irregular  shape,  about  ten  miles  in  length,  and  five  in 
breadth.  Some  have  estimated  its  length  at  four  leagues.  It  may  be 
readily  known  at  a  distance  by  its  uneven  surface,  shooting  up  in  many 
irregular  hills.  Still  it  is  not  so  high  as  its  neighbour  Masafuero, 
which,  when  first  seen,  presents  an  even  surface  of  elevated  table- 
land. 

The  water,  as  before  stated,  is  convenient,  and  of  an  excellent  quality, 
?ind  ships  may  be  furnished  with  wood  at  very  little  trouble.  The 
valleys  are  swarming  with  wild  cattle,  horses,  hogs,  sheep,  and  goats. 
The  plains  and  mountains  are  well  covered  with  moderate-sized  timber, 
comprising  numerous  trees  of  an  aromatic  character.  Tlie  myrtle  is 
the  only  large  limber  which  came  under  my  observation.  Fimento 
and  cabbage-trees  are  common  ;  vegetables  and  fruit  abundant.  Here 
are  radishes,  water-cresses,  parsley,  turnips,  and  purslain.  In  the 
valleys  and  woods  fruits  grow  wild,  such  as  apples,  pears,  peaches, 
plums,  apricots,  figs,  cherries,  and  strawberries.  Cedar  and  sandal- 
wood are  found  on  the  mountains,  but  not  of  the  best  quahty. 
'  Fur  and  hair-seals  formerly  frequented  this  island  ;  but  of  late  they 
have  found  some  other  place  of  resort,  though  no  cause  for  the  change 
has  been  assigned.  Perhaps  the  moral  atmosphere  may  have  been  so 
much  affected  by  the  introduction  of  three  hundred  felons  as  to  become 
liupleasant  to  these  sagacious  animals.  Fish,  however,  of  different 
kinds,  and  of  a  most  excellent  quality,  abound  in  the  waters  around  the 
shores  of  the  island.  Crawfish  are  also  very  plenty.  Many  aquatic 
birds  visit  the  west  end  of  this  island ;  and  the  forests  are  tenanted 
"With  a  great  variety  of  land  birds  of  a  beautiful  plumage.  The  interior 
of  the  island  is  very  much  torn  to  pieces  by  volcanoes,  and  exhibitfj 
many  barren  rocky  mountains.  Yet  the  valleys  are  very  fertile,  pro- 
ducing spontaneously  every  kind  of  fruit  and  vegetable  that  is  com- 
mon on  tJie  Chilian  coast  of  South  America. 

I  The  eastern  side  of  the  island  is  now  tolerably  well  cultivated,  this 
labour  being  performed  by  the  convicts  who  are  sent  hither  from  Chili. 
There  were  at  one  lime  about  three  hundred  of  them  on  the  island, 


128  ALEXANDER  SELKIRK.  [1824 

guarded  by  one  hundred  regular  troops,  sent  from  Valparaiso  for  that 
purpose.  It  was  then  considered  dangerous  for  a  mercliant-sliip  to  lie 
in  the  bay  at  night  without  keeping  a  good  look-out  toM^ards  the  village, 
with  all  the  crew  under  arms,  as  the  convicts  had  already  made  at- 
tempts to  cut  out  vessels  lying  at  anchor,  for  the  purpose  of  making 
their'  escape.  They  have  lately  effected  their  design,  seven  years 
since  the  date  of  this  journal,  by  seizing  the  American  brig  Anawan, 
Captain  Palmer,  and  compelling  him  to  land  them  at  Copiapo,  a  small 
port  on  the  coast  of  Chili. 

There  is  a  small  island  lying  off  the  southern  side  of  Juan  Fer-» 
nandez,  called  Monkey  Key ;  and  another  at  tlie  south-west  side,  called 
Goat  Island,  about  a  mile  distant,  with  fifteen  fathoms  of  water  between 
them.  It  is  merely  an  miinhabited  rock,  however,  not  even  visited  by 
seals  at  the  present  time. 

Every  schoolboy  knows  that  the  island  of  Juan  Fernandez  was, 
for  four  or  five  years,  the  solitary  residence  of  a  Scotch  sailor,  named 
Alexander  Selkirk ;  he  having  been  left  there  by  his  captain,  on  ac- 
count of  a  quarrel  between  them.  It  was  from  his  journal  that  De  Foe 
filched  tlie  materials  for  his  interesting  romance  of  Robinson  Crusoe^^ 
a  book  that  has  never  been  equalled  in  popularity  since  the  art  of  print- 
ing was  discovered — a  book  that  has  had,  and  still  has,  more  influence 
on  the  minds  of  youth  than  ever  had  the  legends  of  chivalry  in  Spain, 
or  the  dramas  of  Schiller  in  Germany. 

Many  persons,  however,  are  imder  the  impression  that  Selkirk  was 
wantonly  and  arbitrarily  sent  on  shore  here  against  his  will.  Such 
was  not  the  fact.  It  was  his  own  proposition  to  remain  on  this  island, 
in  preference  to  continuing  on  board  the  Cinque-ports  galley,  under  i. 
captain  who  he  thought  had  ill-treated  him,  though  he  held  the  office 
of  sailing-master  on  board  the  ship.  Captain  Stradling  consented,  and 
furnished  him  with  the  means  of  procuring  the  necessaries  of  life.  But 
when  the  ship  was  ready  to  sail,  Selkirk's  resolution  was  shaken,  and 
he  eagerly  made  overtures  of  reconciliation.  Stradhng  now  thought 
that  it  was  his  turn  to  be  obstinate,  and  refused  to  receive  the  recluse 
on  board,  but  left  him  alone  on  this  solitary  island,  far  beyond  the 
reach  of  the  sympathies  or  assistance  of  his  fellow-men.  As  the  last 
boat  left  the  island  for  the  ship,  then  under  way,  his  heart  sank  within 
him,  and  every  hope  expired.  Well  might  he  exclaim,  in  the  language 
which  Thompson  has  put  into  the  mouth  of  another  in  ^milar  circum- 
stances— 

-"  I  never  heard 


A  sound  so  dismal  as  tlxeir  parting  oars.''  ' 

But  Selkirk  was  not  left  h©re  to  perish  by  famine;  the  means  of 
subsistence  were  furnished  him.  There  were  left  with  him  clothes 
and  bedding,  a  gun  and  ammunition,  a  few  books,  with  certain  nautical 
and  mathematical  instruments,  and  some  other  trifling  implements. 
The  island  abounded  with  fruits,  vegetables,  animals,  aad  all  the 
necessaries  of  life,  in  the  greatest  abundance  ;  and  he  was  sole  naonarcli" 
of  the  little  kingdom.  But  though  he  might  have  thought,  as  it  is  beauti- 
fully expressed  in  Covv'per's  poem  on  the  subject— > 


Jan.]  ALEXANDER  SELKIRK.  129 

"  I  am  monarch  of  all  1  survey, 

My  right  there  is  norif  to  dispute,"' 

the  subsequent  seniiment  was  doubtless  more  Trequently  present  to 
his  mind : 

"  0  solitude,  where  are  the  charms 
Which  sages  have  seen  in  thy  face? 
Better  dwelfin  the  midst  of  alarms, 
Than  reign  in  tliis  horrible  place." 

.  For  some  time  alter  the  departure  of  the  ship,  he  found  the  sohtude 
of  his  situation  scarcely  supportable  ;  and  so  depressing  did  his  melan- 
choly become,  that  he  frequently  determined  to  put  a  period  to  his  ex- 
istence. According  to  his  own  account,  it  was  full  eighteen  months 
before  he  became  completely  reconciled  to  his  singular  lot ;  when  he 
gradually  became  calm  and  resigned,  and  finally  happy.  He  now 
employed  his  time  in  building  and  decorating  his  huts,  exploring  the 
island,  catching  wild  goats  and  taming  them,  with  other  amusements 
and  avocations,  so  accurately  detailed  in  the  romance  that  no  one 
could  doubt  the  source  from  whence  the  facts  M'ere  derived.  When 
his  garments  were  worn  out,  he  made  others  of  the  skins  of  such  goats 
as  he  killed  for  food. 

^  During  Selkirk's  residence  on  this  island  he  caught  about  one  thou- 
sand goats,  half  of  which  he  let  go  at  large  again,  having  first  marked 
them  with  a  slit  in  the  ear.  Thirty  years  afterward,  when  Commo- 
dore Anson  visited  this  island,  he  or  some  of  his  people  shot  one  of 
these  very  goats  ;  which  I  should  suppose  must  have  been  rather  tough 
eating.  After  living  in  this  manner  four  years  and  four  months,  Sel- 
kirk was  at  length  taken  ofi'  by  an  English  privateer  from  Bristol,  which 
touched  at  the  island,  with  her  consort,  in  the  month  of  February,  1709  ; 
but  did  not  arrive  in  England  until  October,  1711. 

Havmg  been  absent  eight  years,  and  supposed  by  his  friends  to  have 
perished,  his  unexpected  return  produced  considerable  sensation  among 
them.  It  soon  became  noised  abroad  that  more  than  half  the  period 
of  his  absence  had  been  passed  on  an  uninhabited  island  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  when  the  curiosity  of  the  public  became  so  much  ex- 
cited, that  he  reasonably  conjectured  that  he  might  turn  his  adventures 
to  some  account ;  and  as  he  was  much  in  want  of  pecuniary  assistance 
he  resolved  to  try. 

He  was  referred  to  Daniel  De  Foe,  a  young  man  just  then  rising  into 
literary  celebrity,  into  whose  hands  he  put  his  journal  for  examination  : 
proposing  to  give  him  a  liberal  share  of  the  profits  if  he  would  prepare 
it  for  the  press.  After  some  time,  Dc  Foe  returned  the  manuscript,  with 
a  discouraging  answer,  and  Selkirk  relinquished  every  hope  from  this 
quarter.  In  a  few  years  afterward  appeared  a  new  romartce,  entitled 
»*  Robinson  Crusoe,"  which  at  once  electrified  all  the  juvenile  portion 
of  the  British  nation.  With  unexampled  rapidity  this  work  ran  through 
many  successive  editions,  and  was  translated  into  almost  every  language 
of  Europe.  Abridgments,  alterations,  and  bungling  imitations  soon 
succeeded ;  De  Foe  became  rich  in  fame  and  wealth,while  poor  Selkirk, 
the  journal  of  whose  sufferings  had  furnished  liim  with  every  important 


130  ISLAND  OF  MASAFUERO.  [1824. 

mcidcnt  of  the  romance,  was  doomed  (o  pine  in  want  and  obscurity. 
The  biographers  of  De  Foe  have  given  him  mucli  praise  for  having  acted 
honourably  towards  his  creditors,  from  whose  demands  he  had  been 
legally  released  by  the  statute  of  insolvency.  They  say,  "  Being 
afterward  in  a  state  of  affluence,  he  honourably  paid  the  whole."  If 
tliis  alRuence  proceeded  from  the  sale  of  Robinson  Crusoe,  this  com- 
pliment to  his  integrity  might  better  have  been  omitted. 

The  time  and  place  of  Selkirk's  death  are  not  on  record  ;  but  it  has 
been  asserted,  on  undoubted  authority,  that  so  late  as  the  year  1798, 
tlie  chest  and  musket  which  he  had  with  him  on  the  island  were  in 
possession  of  a  grand-nephew,  John  Selkirk,  a  weaver  in  Largo,  North- 
Britain. 

I  felt  almost  a  romantic  interest  in  examining  such  places  as  I  knew 
had  been  frequented  by  the  recluse,  and  which  had  been  accurately 
described  in  the  fiction.  The  harbour,  however,  near  which  he  fixed 
his  residence,  the  better  to  watch  for  vessels,  is  little  more  than  a  small 
cove,  not  above  one  hundred  and  twenty  rods  wide  at  its  entrance,  and 
entirely  open  to  the  easterly  winds,  from  south-east  to  north-north-east. 
But  the  wind  seldom  blows  from  these  points,  except  in  the  winter 
season.  Here,  and  from  the  summit  of  an  adjacent  eminence,  would 
the  wretched  man  watch  the  distant  horizon,  until  his  eyes  and  his 
heart  both  became  insupportably  painful.  As  I  descended  from  the 
same  eminence,  I  could  not  help  repeating  the  words  I  had  heard  sung 
somewhere,  "  Alas  !  poor  Robinson  Crusoe  !" 


CHAPTER  X. 

Island  of  Masaftiero — The  River  Maule — Captain  and  Crew  arrested — A  Prison 
Scene — Symptoms  of  a  bloody  Crisis — Amicable  Compromise — St.  Valentine's 
Day — Guests  of  Distinction — A  nautical  Breakfast  strangely  interrupted — Falso 
Colours — Retaliation,  or  the  Yankee  Trick — Arrive  at  Valparaiso — The  Wasp 
changes  Masters — Embark  for  the  United  States — Pilot  a  Ship  through  Magel- 
lan's Strait — Touch  at  Pemambuco — Arrive  at  Salem — Gloomy  Forebodings, 
terminating  in  a  fatal  Reality — Visit  to  Stonington — Affecting  Meeting — A 
Father's  Advice. 

From  Juan  Fernandez  we  proceeded  to  the  island  of  Masafuero ; 
Avhich,  though  not  yet  known  in  romance,  has  been  somewhat  cele- 
brated for  the  immense  numbers  of  seals  which  have  been  found  on 
its  shores.  Three  and  a  half  millions  of  fur-seal  skins  were  taken 
from  this  island  and  sold  in  the  Canton  market  between  the  years 
1793  and  1807;  at  which  time  the  business  was  scarcely  worth  fol- 
lowing. But  now  the  island,  like  its  neighbour  Juan  Fernandez,  is 
almost  entirely  abandoned  by  these  animals. 

The  situation  of  this  island  is  minutely  stated  in  the  last  chapter. 
It  is  of  circular  form,  and  about  twenty  miles  in  circumference.  Its 
surface  is  well  covered  with  wood,  and  is  generally  very  fertile ; 
although  it  has  evidently  sufiered  from  frequent  volcanic  eruptions. 


Jan.]  ISLAND  OF  MASAFUERO.  131 

The  climate  here  is  mild,  the  air  salubrious,  the  weather  generally 
pleasant,  and  the  place  every  way  calculated  to  promote  health.  For 
nine  months  of  the  year,  the  wind  uniformly  blows  from  west-south- 
west to  south-east ;  but  in  June,  July,  and  August,  it  blows  fresh  from 
all  points  of  the  compass,  attended  with  much  rain  and  thick  weather ; 
particularly  when  it  blows  from  a  northern  quarter. 

There  are  a  great  many  goats  on  this  island,  the  flesh  of  which  is 
very  tender  and  palatable  food ;  this  is  doubtless  owing  to  the  rich- 
ness and  sweetness  of  the  grass  and  other  vegetables  on  which  they 
feed,  they  being  of  the  finest  flavour  and  highly  nutritive.  The  forests 
abound  with  land-birds  of  beautiful  plumage,  and  sea-birds  visit  the 
shores  m  great  numbers.  But  Ireland  itself  is  not  more  exempt 
from  serpents  and  reptiles  of  every  description  than  is  the  island  of  Masa- 
fuero. 

Wood  and  water  can  be  obtained  here  from  the  east  side  of  the 
island,  with  very  little  trouble,  and  a  place  called  the  landing  is  the 
most  convenient  for  taking  ofl*  the  water.  This  may  be  easily  recog- 
nised by  a  single  rock,  on  the  southern  part  of  the  island,  appearing 
at  a  distance  like  a  sail.  A  little  to  the  north  of  this  rock,  by  follow- 
ing the  shore,  a  small  gravelly  cove  will  be  found,  wdth  some  small 
sand-beaches.  At  this  place  is  the  best  water  to  be  foimd,  and  the 
most  easy  to  procure ;  although  it  cannot  be  seen  from  the  ships,  as  it 
flows  in  a  gully  of  some  depth.  The  cove  is  small,  and  may  be 
known  by  a  ridge  of  stones  piled  upon  the  shore.  In  the  winter  season, 
good  water  is  found  in  all  the  gullies  on  the  north  and  east  sides  of  the 
island.  Fish  of  a  good  quality  abound  in  the  water  near  the  shore,  and 
may  be  easily  caught  with  a  hook  and  line. 

In  approaching  this  island,  there  are  no  dangers  which  extend  over 
half  a  mile  from  the  shore.  On  the  west  side  there  is  a  rock,  one 
mile  from  the  shore,  about  the  size  of  a  ship's  deck,  with  twenty-two 
feet  of  water  over  it  at  low  tide.  This  rock  is  not  indicated  by  any 
symptom  on  the  surface,  except  in  very  bad  weather.  From  the 
north-west  point  a  reef  extends  out  about  half  a  mile.  Bring  the 
north-w'est  point  to  bear  west,  and  you  may  anchor  in  twenty  fathoms 
of  water,  sandy  bottom,  about  one  mile  off-shore. 

The  first  ship  that  ever  took  a  cargo  of  fur-seal  skins  from  this 
island  for  the  Canton  market,  was  the  Eliza,  Captain  Stewart.  From 
tiiat  time  to  the  year  1807,  there  were  constantly  more  or  less  ships' 
crews  stationed  here,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  fur-seal  skins  ;  a  part 
cf  which  time  there  were  from  twelve  to  fifteen  crews  on  shore  at 
tiie  same  time,  American  and  English. 

January  16M. — The  boats  which  I  had  sent  in  search  of  seal  when 
I  first  aiTived  at  this  island,  returned  on  the  evening  of  Sunday,  the 
16th,  at  eight,  P.  M.  During  their  absence,  they  had  pulled  all  around 
the  island,  but  only  succeeded  uUaking  thirteen  fur-seal  skins.  They 
had,  indeed,  seen  about  fifty  seals  on  the  rocks,  which  they  could  not 
get  at.  At  nine,  P.  M.,  we  got  under  way,  and  steered  for  the  river 
Maule,  on  the  coast  of  Chili,  about  half-way  between  Valparaiso  and 
Conception ;  having  a  fine  breeze  from  south-south-west,  and  fair 
weather. 

12 


132  THE  RIVER  MAVLE.  [1824. 

January  \9th. — On  Wednesday,  the  19ih,  at  eleven,  A.  IM.,  we  cast 
anchor  in  the  river  3Iaule,  about  one  mile  within  its  mouth,  in  three 
fathoms  of  water,  muddy  bottom,  slieUered  from  all  winds.  This 
river  rises  among  the  mountains  of  the  Andes,  and  runs  nearly  a  west- 
erly course  until  it  empties  into  the  Pacific,  in  lat.  3-4°  50'  S.,  long. 
72°  18'  W. 

At  the  mouih  of  this  river  there  is  a  bar,  covered  by  thirteen  feet 
of  water  in  spring  tides  ;  the  channel  is  also  narrow,  as  a  cable  would 
reach  across  it ;  but  immediately  wiiliin  the  bar,  the  breadth  of  which 
is  not  over  half  a  cable's  length,  there  is  four  fathoms  of  water,  and 
the  same  depth  continues  nearly  two  miles  up  the  river.  Vessels  on 
this  coast  which  require  to  be  overhauled  and  repaired  will  find  this 
port  very  convenient  for  that  purpose ;  as  there  is  a  line  ship-yard 
here,  where  many  small  vessels  are  built,  and  some  even  of  three 
hundred  tons.  Here  is  every  facility  for  heaving-out  vessels  under 
two  hundred  and  fifty  tons,  in  order  to  search  for  leaks,  and  make  any 
repairs  that  may  be  found  necessary. 

The  entrance  to  the  river  Maule  is  easily  distinguished  by  a  remark- 
able monument,  which  nature  has  erected,  about  one  hundred  yards 
from  the  shore,  and  about  seventy-five  yards  south  of  the  channel. 
This  is  a  mass  of  white  marble,  or  of  some  species  of  rock  which 
has  that  appearance,  rising  about  seventy-five  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  When  seen  from  the  ofling,  it  bears  so  striking  a  resemblance 
to  a  stone  church,  that  it  has  acquired  the  appellation  of  "  Church  Rocky" 
and  is  so  named  on  the  charts.  This  rock  is  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  in  length,  from  east  to  west,  and  about  seventy-five  feet  in  width. 
The  interior  of  its  base  is  a  spacious  vault,  into  which  the  sea  flows 
through  three  arches  at  its  western  end.  Hair-seals  find  this  recess 
a  very  convenient  retreat  from  the  ocean,  in  which  they  are  not  ex- 
posed to  their  enemy,  man.  The  roof  of  this  edifice  is  also  peopled 
with  living  creatures ;  it  being  the  resort  of  a  species  of  white  sea- 
fowl,  which  resembles  the  dove  in  shape.  Thus  bountiful  nature  not 
only  feeds  and  clothes  the  humblest  of  her  offspring,  but  also  erects 
marble  palaces  for  their  accommodaiion.  •'  Church  Rock"  is  certainly 
a  great  natural  curiosity. 

On  the  south  side  of  this  river,  about  two  miles  from  its  entrance, 
stands  the  town  of  Chanco  ;  and  on  the  opposite  shore  there  is  another 
called  Artillero.  About  sixty  miles  farther  up  the  river  is  the  cele- 
brated ancient  town  of  Talca. 

These  places  are  all  small ;  as  Chanco,  the  largest  of  the  three, 
only  contains  about  fifteen  hundred  inhabitants  ;  who  are  a  very  indus- 
trious people,  building  ships,  and  cultivating  their  plantations  ;  the  lat- 
ter being  in  many  instances  very  handsomely  arranged,  particularly 
those  which  lie  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  Among  their  productions 
I  have  noticed  wheat,  maize,  pease,  pineapples,  oranges,  lemons, 
citrons,  apples,  pears,  peaches,  quinces,  melons,  and  strawberries,  all 
of  the  largest  size  and  best  quality.  Among  the  animals  which 
abound  in  this  neighbourhood  are  black-cattle,  sheep,  and  hogs,  which 
can  be  procured  at  a  very  reasonable  price.  Poultry  of  every  kind 
is  cheap  here  ;  while  teals  and  wild  ducks  may  be  shot  in  any  quantity. 


Feb.]     PRISON'  SCENE— SYMPTOMS  OF  A  BLOODY  CIIISIS.      133 

about  ten  miles  up  the  river.     From  the  channel  of  the  river  may  be 
eaught  a  great  variety  of  fish,  either  with  a  seine  or  a  hook  and  Ime. 

As  soon  as  we  had  moored  the  vessel,  we  commenced  overhauling 
her  sails  and  rigging,  which  had  become  considerably  impaired  since 
our  refitting  at  Coquimbo,  in  the  preceding  August,  as  mentioned  in 
Chap.  Vlll.  We  also  cleared  out  the  hold,  and  resalted  our  seal-skins  ; 
M  hile  a  part  of  the  crew  were  cutting  wood,  and  others  were  engaged 
in  scraping  and  repainting  the  vessel.  These  necessary  duties  were 
not  completed  until  the  13th  of  February,  when  we  once  more  found 
ourselves  in  readiness  for  sea.  But  owino-  to  the  neap  tides,  and  the 
filling  up  of  the  bar,  which  left  but  six  feet  of  v/ater  above  it,  we  were 
compelled  to  delay  our  departure  for  a  short  time. 

February  13M. — As  the  crew  required  a  little  relaxation,  I  now 
gave  them  liberty  to  go  on  shore,  and  enjoy  a  stroll  about  the  town 
and  the  adjacent  country.  At  about  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  I 
also  went  on  shore  myself,  for  the  purpose  of  calling  on  a  friend  of 
mine  who  resided  there  :  an  English  gentleman,  by  the  name  of  Henry 
Williams,  Esq.  The  moment  I  landed,  I  learned  that  the  governor 
had  just  arrived  in  town,  it  being  his  first  appearance  there  since  I 
had  been  in  port.  I  therefore  informed  my  friend  Williams  that  I 
thought  it  proper  to  pay  my  respects  to  him  immediately.  He  agreed 
with  me  that  such  a  step  was  strictly  in  accordance  with  etiquette, 
and  would  be  received  as  a  compliment  by  his  excellency. 

We  accordingly  set  ofl'  together  for  the  governors  palace ;  but  had 
scarcely  proceeded  fifty  rods,  before  we  M*ere  met  by  a  military  guard, 
commanded  by  a  sergeant,  who  ordered  me  to  accompany  them  to  the 
guard-house,  without  assigning  any  reason  for  such  an  arbitrary  pro- 
cedure, except  that  he  was  acting  according  to  orders.  This,  I  thought, 
was  meeting  my  intended  civility  with  a  vengeance,  and  astonished  as 
I  was,  I  could  not  .forbear  asking  my  friend  if  this  was  a  specimen  of 
the  courtesy  and  etiquette  to  which  he  had  just  alluded.  He,  how- 
ever, was  as  much  surprised  and  chagrined  as  myself;  and  told  the 
officer  that  he  should  accompany  me,  and  demand  an  explanation  of 
the  governor. 

'  The  guard-house,  as  this  fellow  called  it,  was  neither  more  nor  less 
than  a  prison,  and  the  reader  may  guess  my  astonishment,  when,  on 
entering  its  gloomy  walls,  I  found  twenty-two  of  my  crew,  as  fine 
fellows  as  ever  fought  for  '•'■free  trade  a?id  sailors'  riglits^''  seated 
around  in  different  parts  of  the  room,  under  guard  like  myself,  and  the 
governor  shting  as  judge  and  jury.  My  English  friend  was  at  my 
side,  and  as  we  advanced,  his  excellency  made  an  attempt  to  rise  and 
bid  me  welcome.  By  this  time,  however,  I  had  received  some  signifi- 
cant glances  from  my  bra\  e  men,  accompanied  with  such  meaning- 
gestures  as  could  not  be  misunderstood,  each  man  having  his  right 
hand  in  his  bosom.  I  instantly  saw  how  the  land  lay,  and  knowing 
the  mettle  and  fidelity  of  my  men,  I  turned  my  back  on  his  excellency, 
without  deigning  to  notice  his  profiered  courtesy,  and  addressed  my 
men — "  Well,  my  lads,  what  are  you  doing  here  V 

Every  one  was  on  his  feet  as  I  spoke,  and  each  had,  as  it  were 


134  AMICABLE  COMPROMISE.  [1824^ 

imperceptil)!}',  placed  himself  by  the  side  of  a  soldier.  In  reply  to  my 
question  one  of  ihcm  said,  with  an  emphasis  of  much  meaning,  "  We 
are  doing  noiiiing  at  present,  captain,  but  shall  soo7i  be  very  busy." 

I  told  them  to  attempt  nothing  without  my  orders,  as  I  hoped  to  ob- 
tain justice  without  proceeding  to  extremities.  "Should  this  not  be 
the  case,"  I  added,  "  the  signal  word  will  be  liberty  or  death  /"  I  then 
turned  to  the  governor,  and  accosted  him  in  a  tone  which  I  thought 
suitable  to  the  emergency,  and  in  his  own  language. 

"By  wliat  authority,  sir,  do  you  commit  this  outrage?  And  for 
Avhat  cause  are  my  crew  and  myself  dragged  within  tlie  walls  of  this 
prison  ?     This  question,  sir,  requires  an  immediate  answer." 

The  governor  replied,  that  it  had  been  reported  to  him  that  my 
vessel  was  a  Spanish  privateer;  and  that  he  should  detain  us  until 
he  was  satisfied  to  the  contrary.  I  rejoined  that  my  crcv/  were  all 
American  and  English  seamen;  that  the  Wasp  sailed  under  the  United 
>States'  flag ;  a  flag  which  could  never  be  dishonoured  with  impunity ; 
and  that  I  was  determined  not  to  be  trifled  with.  I  therefore  demanded 
that  my  crew  should  be  instantly  liberated,  and  allowed  to  go  on 
board  the  vessel  unmolested,  or  some  innocent  blood  would  be  spilt  in 
a  very  few  minutes. 

I  now  advanced  to  his  excellency's  elbow,  and  laying  my  hand  on 
my  dirk,  continued — 

"You  see  these  gallant  seamen,  sir — lads  that  never  knew  fear — 
each  with  a  trusty  weapon  in  his  grasp — there  are  twenty-two  of  them 
— see  how  their  eager  gaze  is  fixed  on  me — were  I  to  pronounce 
one  word,  or  make  the  slightest  signal,  these  twenty-two  freemen,  sir, 
■^vould  instantly  assail  your  garrison.  But  to  show  you  that  I  do  not 
wish  to  see  blood  spilt  when  it  can  be  avoided,  I  consent  to  remain 
on  shore  this  night,  if  my  crew  are  immediately  set  at  liberty." 

My  friend  Williams  here  stepped  forward  and  ofiered  to  give  secu- 
rity for  ten  thousand  dollars,  if  it  was  required,  that  I  should  remain 
on  shore  until  the  governor  vv^as  satisfied  respecting  the  character  of 
the  Wasp.  To  this  proposition  his  exaellency  now  readily  acceded, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  my  crew  were  all  on  board.  The  governor  then 
expressed  his  regret  at  what  had  occurred ;  and  assured  me  that 
nothing  was  farther  from  his  intentions  than  to  insult  the  flag  of  a 
friendly  nation,  or  to  be  deficient  in  the  rites  of  hospitality.  He 
therefore  insisted  that  Mr.  Williams  and  myself  should  accompany 
him  to  his  residence,  and  drown  all  animosities  in  a  cup  of  tea.  We 
did  so ;  and  the  evening  was  passed  in  a  very  social  friendly  manner. 

February  I4th. — On  the  following  morning,  in  conformity  to  pre- 
vious arrangements,  the  character  of  my  vessel  was  to  be  ascertained 
by  actual  and  personal  inspection ;  and  my  friend  Williams  volun- 
teered to  forfeit  his  whole  fortune  if  every  thing  was  not  found  to  be 
correct  on  board  the  Wasp.  Accordingly,  at  half-past  seven  o'clock, 
the  whole  party  was  ready  to  proceed,  consisting  of  the  governor, 
the  collector,  the  captain  of  the  port,  the  general,  and  several  mer- 
chants of  the  first  standing  in  the  place,  together  with  my  English 
friend  and  myself.     On  reaching  the  vessel  they  were  received  with  a 


Feb.]  RETALIATION,  OR  THE  YANKEE  JOKE.  135 

salute,  and  every  other  testimony  of  respect  which  national  etiquette 
has  rendered  customary  on  such  occasions.  After  showing  them 
every  thing  worth  seeing  on  deck,  with  which  they  appeared  much 
pleased  (as  the  vessel  had  just  been  thoroughly  repaired,  and  every 
tiling  was  in  order),  I  directed  their  attention  to  our  national  flag,  which 
was  proudly  waving  at  the  main-royal-mast  head.  The  American- 
stars,  of  course,  received  some  compliments  from  my  honourable 
guests,  to  which  I  made  a  suitable  reply,  and  led  the  way  to  the  cabin, 
where  as  good  a  breakfast  as  their  market  could  furnish  was  smoking 
on  the  table. 

In  a  few  minutes  we  were  all  seated  at  the  breakfast-table,  directly 
over  which  was  a  large  sky-light,  now  uncovered  for  the  benefit  of  the 
fresh  air.  Through  this  spacious  opening  my  guests  frequently  gazed 
upwards  to  the  star-spangled  banner  waving  over  their  heads,  and  always 
with  some  allusion  to  the  glorious  cause  of  liberty.  Pleasure  beamed 
in  every  eye,  and  every  visage  glowed  wi^h  jocular  good-humour  and 
the  ardour  of  patriotism. 

We  had  probably  been  thus  engaged  for  about  fifteen  or  twenty  miur 
iites,  when  the  sudden  report  of  one  of  our  guns  startled  every  man  at 
table  like  a  shock  of  electricity.  All  eyes  were  turned  upwards,  and 
were  almost  blighted  at  the  spectacle  they  beheld.  The  banner  of 
despotic  Spain  was  now  waving  where  the  flag  of  freedom  had  just 
before  been  seen.  Everyone  of  my  thunderstruck  guests  dropped  his 
knife  and  fork  in  dismay,  and  some  of  them  started  from  the  table  and 
attempted  to  rush  upon  deck.  But  they  found  the  companion-way 
guarded  by  a  double  sentry,  who  permitted  no  one  to  pass.  All  now 
reseated  themselves  in  silent  consternation,  while  every  eye  was  directed 
to  me  for  an  explanation.     I  first  broke  silence  in  the  following  words  : — 

"  Gentlemen,  you  are  all  prisoners  of  war  to  the  Spaniards ;  cap- 
tives under  that  flag  from  which  you  have  wickedly  revolted.  Now 
3iiark  me  !  Unless  you  ransom  yourselves  in  two  hours,  with  the  sum 
of  ten  thousand  dollars,  I  shall  take  you  all  to  Chiloe,  and  deliver  you 
up  to  General  Quintenela." 

So  soon  as  they  could  recall  their  scattered  senses,  they  saw  the 
reasonableness  of  this  proposition,  and  called  for  pen,  ink,  and  paper, 
to  execute  draughts  for  the  sum  required.  When  I  had  enjoyed  theii' 
perplexity  for  some  minutes,T  thus  accosted  them: — 

"  Gentlemen,  yesterday  you  saw  fit  to  practise  a  very  serious  joke 
upon  me  ;  this  morning,  being  the  feast  of  St.  Valentine,  has  furnished 
me  the  opportunity  of  a  pleasant  retort.  Myself  and  crew  were  last 
evening  in  your  custody — you  are  now  in  mine.  I  have  had  my  re- 
venge without  bloodshed.  We  are  once  more  on  an  equal  footing. 
The  star-spangled  banner  of  my  beloved  country  is  again  flouting  over 
us.  We  are  all  freemen — we  are  all  republicans.  So,  gentlemen,  if 
you  please,  we  will  resume  the  pleasures  of  the  table,  and  finish  our 
breakfast  whh  renewed  appetites,  and  the  same  good-humour  which 
distinguished  its  commencement." 

This  unexpected  explanation  instantly  restored  every  thing  to  its 
original  state  of  harmony  and  jocularity.  Every  face  glowed  with 
pleasure,  and  every  eye  beamed  with  amity  and  confidence.     All  united 


136  VALPARAISO— PxVSSAGE  HOME.  [1824. 

in  confeissing  tliat  this  was  the  pleasantest  breakfast  they  ever  partook 
on  sliipboard. 

In  due  thiie  I  accompanied  my  guests  on  shore ;  and  on  the  same 
evening  the  governor  gave  a  splendid  ball  in  honour  of  the  "  Ya?ik€€ 
joke,'^  as  he  called  it,  at  the  same  time  informing  his  guests,  that  as 
the  festival  of  St.  Valentine  had  been  commenced  ■with  a  breakfast  on 
the  water,  he  was  determined  to  have  it  concluded  with  a  supper  on 
shore.  From  tliis  time  to  the  day  of  our  sailing  we  were  treated  with 
the  most  marked  attention  and  respect  by  all  classes,  from  the  highest 
to  the  lowest. 

February  22d. — The  river  continued  closed  until  Satm-day  the  21st, 
when  we  put  to  sea,  and  steered  for  Valparaiso,  where  we  arrived  on 
the  following  day,  and  at  3,  P.  •NT.,  came  to  anchor  in  five  fathoms  of 
water,  sandy  bottom.  After  paying  the  necessary  visits  on  shore,  I 
found  an  opportunity  of  shipping  my  cargo  of  seal-skins  to  the  United 
States,  by  the  ship  Endeavaur,  of  Salem,  Captain  Elwell ;  I  then  sold 
the  Wasp  to  Mr.  Hogan,  the  American  consul ;  taking  in  payment 
bills  on  the  United  States. 

Felruary  2Sth. — Having  completed  all  my  business,  and  taken  pas- 
sage for  my  crew  to  the  United  States,  I  took  leave  of  my  worthy  friend 
Hogan,  and  went  on  board  the  ship  Endeavour.  On  Saturday,  the 
•28th,  at  1 1,  A.  M.,  we  weighed  anchor  and  put  to  sea,  bound  for  home, 
from  which  I  had  now  been  absent  one  year  and  eight  months,  without 
hearing  a  word  from  my  family.  I  could  not  help  experiencing  some 
sensations  of  regret  in  taking  leave  of  my  faithful  little  bark,  the 
AVasp,  which  had  safely  carried  me  through  so  many  dangers  and  diffi- 
culties. It  M'as  like  parting  with  an  old  friend,  or  quitting  a  scene  to 
which  'we  have  long  been  attached,  and  with  which  are  associated 
many  interestinij  reminiscences. 

Our  passage  to  the  Strait  of  jMagellan  was  much  retarded  by  the 
prevailing  southerly  winds,  so  that  we  did  not  make  Cape  Pillar  until 
the  20th  of  IMarch.  On  the  following  day,  at  1,  P.  jM.,  we  entered  the 
strait,  with  the  wind  from  south-south-west,  and  fair  weather.  On 
the  22d,  at  12.  M..  we  were  nearly  abreast  of  Port  Famine,  where 
we  took  the  wind  from  north-east,  attended  with  fog  and  light  rain. 
This  v/eathcr  continued  for  about  thirty  hours,  when  the  wind  changed 
to  the  south-east  and  south-south-west. 

March  2it]i. — Having  taken  leave  of  the  strait  at  Cape  Virgin,  we 
now  once  more  found  ourselves  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  the  Endeavour 
being  the  first  American  sJnp  that  had  ever  made  this  passage.  Many 
of  the  natives  were  seen  on  this  occasion,  making  their  smokes  and 
inviting  us  to  land ;  but  knowing  that  they  had  no  articles  of  trade, 
Captain  Elwell  declined  having  any  intercourse  with  them.  Nothing 
occurred  on  this  passage  to  change  my  previous  opinion  of  the  safety 
and  facility  Muth  which  this  strait  may  be  navigated  by  vessels  of  any 
size,  which  in  clear  weather  may  run  day  and  night.  Captain  Elwell 
observes  that  there  can  never  be  any  sea  to  injure  a  ship  lying  at  an- 
chor in  any  part  of  the  strait ;  as  the  fresh-water  grass  grows  within 
a  few  inches  of  high-water  mark,  and  the  sand  and  pebbles  on  the 


May.]  ARRIVAL  AT  SALEM.  137 

shores  have  never  been  disturbed  by  the  agitation  of  the  seas  breaking 
aorainst  the  beach. 

We  continued  on  our  passage,  making  all  the  easting  that  was  ne- 
cessary before  we  took  the  south-east  trades.  Variable  winds  and 
occasional  foul  weather  attended  us,  until  Monday, the  12th  of  April; 
when,  being  in  lat.  23°  S.,  long.  28°  W.,  we  took  the  north-east  trade- 
wind  ;  and  on  the  following  day  passed  between  Trinidad  and  Mar- 
tin Vas  Rocks.  Trinidad  Island  lies  in  lat.  20°  32'  S.,  long.  29°  14' 
W.  Large  Martin  Vas  Rock  is  in  lat.  20°  29'  S.,  long.  28°  50'  W. 
Variation,  3°  17'  W. 

Aj>ril  20tl(. — We  now  shaped  our  course  for  Pernambuco,  with  a 
fine  breeze  from  east-south-east,  and  fair  weather.  This  continued 
until  the  20th  of  April,  when  we  arrived  at  Pernambuco ;  and  at  4, 
P.  M.,  we  went  in  with  the  boat  to  the  guard-ship,  lying  in  the  inner  har- 
bour, to  obtain  permission  to  land.  Our  application  was  unsuccessful, 
however,  and  we  were  obliged  to  return  to  our  ship  again.  On  the 
following  day  we  again  set  sail,  steering  for  the  north,  with  a  fine 
breeze  from  east-south-east.  Salem,  in  the  state  of  Massachusetts, 
being  our  port  of  destination,  we  made  no  unnecessary  delay  in  the 
passage,  which  was  attended  with  variable  winds,  calms,  storms,  rain, 
and  sunshine,  and  terminated  on  Tuesday,  the  eighteenth  day  of  May, 
being  only  twenty-seven  days  from  Pernambuco. 

Mai/  ISth. — The  sight  of  one's  native  land,  after  a  long  absence  in 
a  foreign  clime,  is  generally  calculated  to  exhilarate  the  mind,  and  fill 
it  M'ith  a  thousand  agreeable  images  and  associations.  Sucii  was  the 
effect  produced  on  the  present  occasion  Mith  every  mdividual  on  board 
the  Endeavour,  myself  alone  excepted.  For  the  last  four-and-twenty 
hours,  my  spirits  had  been  unusually  depressed.  A  vague  indefinite 
idea  of  some  impending  calamity  hung  about  me  like  the  nightmare,  and 
the  more  I  strove  to  shake  it  off  the  heavier  it  became.  The  cheerful 
animated  faces  around  me  only  tended  to  deepen  the  gloom  of  my  own 
sickening  fancy,  which  was  teeming  with  forebodings  of  the  most  sombre 
character.  On  entering  the  harbour  of  Salem,  the  same  feeling  contin- 
ued ;  and  neither  the  raillery  of  my  companions,  the  bustle  of  mooring, 
nor  the  welcome  and  congratulations  of  former  acquaintances,  could 
throw  a  gleam  of  sunshine  through  the  thick  cloud  that  depressed  me. 

It  was  about  9,  P.  M.,  when  I  landed,  and  was  met  on  the  pier  by  the 
owners  of  the  ship,  Messrs.  Silsbee,  Pickman,  and  Stone,  who  appeared 
to  be  in  excellent  spirits,  and  were  very  inquisitive  to  learn  the  cause 
of  my  dejection,  on  returning  in  health  and  safety  from  a  long  and 
lucrative  voyage.  I  told  them  that  I  was  as  much  at  a  loss  to  account 
for  it  as  themselves  ;  and  could  only  attribute  it  to  solicitude  respecting 
my  family,  from  whom  I  had  not  heard  a  single  word  during  the  whole 
period  of  my  absence,  which  was  nearly  two  years  ;  and  that  I  should 
await  with  extreme  anxiety  the  arrival  of  letters  from  Stonington. 

In  due  time  a  letter  came.  I  was  pacing  my  room  alone,  lost  in 
deep  reflection,  M'hen  a  servant  entered,  and  put  it  in  my  hand.  The 
post-mark  was  Stonington — the  handwriting  was  my  father's.  I 
hastily  turned  it,  and  a  large  black  seal  almost  blasted  my  eye- 
sight.    The  servant  had  departed,  and  for  some  moments  I  stood 


138  DOMESTIC  AFFLICTION.  [1824. 

gazing  at  the  seal,  without  suflicient  resolution  to  break  it.  At  length 
a  silent  monitor  within  me  seemed  to  say,  in  a  tone  of  reproach,  "Are 
you  not  a  man?"  I  rallied  my  senses,  and  exclaimed  aloud,  "Yes,  I 
am  a  man,  and  one  wliose  firmness  is  not  to  be  shaken  by  danger  or 
afiliction,  come  in  what  shape  they  may.  All  tliat  man  can  bear  I  can 
suffer  with  calmness." 

The  utterance  of  this  vaunting  speech  instantly  stilled  the  violent 
tremor  of  my  nerves,  and  restored  my  wonted  coolness.  My  hands 
trembled  not  as  I  broke  the  sable  seal — I  was  perfectly  calm  and  col- 
lected while  I  opened  and  unfolded  the  letter — my  lips  quivered  not  as 
I  read  ilie  date  and  the  words  "  My  dear  Son."  I  dropped  my  eyes 
to  the  fourth  line  below — a  cloud  came  over  the  rest — and  where  was 

my  boasted  manhood  1 

******** 

My  wife  and  tv^o  children — comprising  all  my  little  family — were 
no  more  !  They  had  for  some  time  been  mouldering  in  the  dust,  and 
I  knew  it  not !  I  was  alone  in  the  world  !  like  a  tree  on  the  desert, 
stripped  of  its  branches  !  I  had  long  anticipated  a  joyous  meeting, 
and  this  was  the  result !  I  remember  heaving  a  groan — almost  a 
shriek  burst  from  my  bosom.     The  rest  is  all  a  blank. 

I  afterward  learned  that  some  of  the  family  entered  my  room  for 
the  purpose  of  summoning  me  to  tea,  in  about  an  hour  after  the  servant 
had  delivered  me  the  letter.  They  found  me  seated  in  an  arm-chair, 
as  they  thought,  a  lifeless  corpse.  Their  screams  of  terror  soon 
brought  the  rest  of  the  family  to  the  scene  of  alarm,  and  the  usual 
restoratives  were  promptly  applied.  Medical  aid  was  procured  as 
speedily  as  possible ;  and  in  about  an  hour  I  began  to  evince  some 
hidications  of  returning  consciousness.  At  half-past  seven  my  sight  and 
recollection  partially  returned.  I  saw  about  a  dozen  people  of  both 
sexes  about  me,  but  could  not  for  some  time  fully  comprehend  my  real 
situation.  When  I  did  awake  to  a  full  sense  of  it,  my  reason  was 
shaken  from  its  throne,  and  they  say  I  raved  like  a  maniac — alternately 
calling  for  my  wife  and  children  to  come  to  me,  and  relieve  me  from 
my  torments.  This  paroxysm,  however,  was  of  short  duration,  and 
I  gradually  became  more  rational  and  calm.  I  now  perceived  that 
every  eye  in  the  room  vras  streaming  with  tears,  except  my  own.  Mine 
"were  dry  and  hot,  and  my  throat  was  parching. 

Explanation  was  unnecessary  :  they  had  seen  the  fatal  letter  lying 
on  the  floor,  and  a  very  natural  and  pardonable  curiosity  had  prompted 
them  to  seek  in  that  for  the  cause  of  my  situation.  Their  sympathy 
operated  like  a  cordial  to  ray  feelings ;  and  now,  for  the  first  time,  I 
could  have  wept — but  the  idea  of  its  being  unmanly  prevented  me ; 
and  this  unnatural  struggle  against  overpowering  feelings  procrastinated 
my  recovery,  and  might,  in  fact,  have  been  the  proximate  cause  of  my 
fit  in  the  first  instance.  But  I  had  imbibed  from  my  earliest  infancy 
an  idea,  very  prevalent  among  the  hardy  sons  of  New-England,  espe- 
cially those  who  are  destined  to  bufi'et  the  billows  of  Neptune,  that  a 
tear  on  a  masculine  cheek  evinces  a  weakness  incompatible  with  daring 
enterprises.  I  know  it  is  an  error ;  but  it  is  one  that  has  assisted  in 
making  many  fine  seamen  and  excellent  soldiers.     I  have  often  suflered 


May.]  DOMESTIC  AFFLICTION.  139 

from  adhering  to  it,  as  in  the  present  instance.  A  paroxysm  of  tears 
would  have  restored  me  to  my  usual  calmness  ;  but  then  I  dreaded 
the  blush  that  must  follow,  when  the  cheek  was  dry. 

As  soon  as  my  throat  became  sufiiciently  relieved,  and  I  dared  to 
trust  my  voice,  I  thanked  my  friends  for  their  attention,  and  assured 
them  that  I  did  not  apprehend  a  relapse.  I  then  sank  back  in  my 
chair,  and  breathed  a  silent  ejaculation  to  an  ear  that  is  never  closed 
to  the  aspirations  of  sorrow  and  humility :  '•  Thy  v*'ill,  O  Lord,  be  done. 
Pardon  a  worm  of  the  dust  for  presuming  to  murmur  at  thy  righteous 
judgments.  O  gi-aciously  sanctify  tliis  aiiiiction  to  my  soul,  that  it 
may  be  good  for  me  to  have  been  afflicted.  Give  me  strength  to  en- 
dure the  struggle  with  manly  fortitude,  and  even  with  gratitude.  Shall 
not  the  Judge  of  all  the  earth  do  right !  Have  mercy  upon  me,  for  I 
am  weak — thou  knowest  that  we  are  but  dust.  They  are  not  dead — 
they  live  in  heaven ;  and  O  gTant  me  grace  still  to  endure  the  trials 
and  troubles  of  this  transitory  life  : — I  ought  not  to  wish  them  back  to 
share  in  such  troubles,  but  manfully  to  wrestle  alone.  Misfortunes, 
dangers,  hardships,  and  disappointments  have,  for  some  gracious  pur- 
pose of  thy  divine  providence,  attended  me  from  infancy  to  the  present 
hour.     Teach  me  to  be  resigned — grant  me  grace  to  be  thankful." 

Though  I  am  ashamed  to  shed  tears,  I  am  not  ashamed  to  publish 
to  the  world  that  the  above  humble  ejaculation,  rather  thought  than 
whispered,  instantly  restored  my  mind  to  calmness  and  serenity. 
Should  any  doubt  it,  I  advise  them  to  try  the  experiment  in  sincerity ; 
they  will  then  doubt  it  no  more. 

The  unaftected  sympathy  of  my  noble-hearted  tars  also  afibrded 
me  much  consolation ;  I  mean  such  as  returned  with  me  to  the  United 
States,  three  of  whom  are  nov/  residing  in  the  city  of  New-York,  viz. 
jMessrs.  Charles  Cox,  WilHam  Cox,  and  John  Simmons — as  worthy, 
manly,  and  brave  men  as  ever  sailed  under  the  flag  of  any  nation. 
The  same  remark  will  apply,  v.'ith  equal  justice,  to  two  young  gentle- 
men, named  Pratt  and  ?\Iurray,  of  Connecticut.  As  soon  as  they  heard 
of  my  affliction,  they  came  to  administer  consolation,  and  bind  up  the 
wounds  of  my  heart.     They  v/ere  not  Job's  comforters. 

The  Wasp's  cargo  of  seal-skins,  brought  home  in  the  Endeavour, 
consisting  of  about  seven  thousand,  was  soon  landed  in  the  best  order ; 
and  in  a  few  days  afterward  two  of  the  owners,  Messrs.  Rogers  and 
iNI'Intyre,  who  came  on  from  New- York  for  the  purpose,  caused  the 
whole  to  be  sold  at  public  sale,  the  proceeds  of  which  gave  them  the 
most  entire  satisfaction. 

These  gentlemen  then  requested  me  to  accompany  them  to  New- 
York,  and  select  any  vessel  v/hich  I  considered  suitable  for  another 
voyage  of  two  years  or  upwards  to  the  Paciflc  Ocean,  which  they 
would  immediately  purchase  and  commit  to  ray  charge.  I  readily  ac- 
ceded to  the  proposal,  for  home  had  now  few  charms  for  me,  since 
the  tenderest  ties  of  my  heart  had  been  severed  by  the  king  of  terrors. 
One  sacred  duty,  however,  v/as  first  to  be  fulfilled.  This  was  to  visit 
my  aged  father,  who  had  also  drunk  of  the  cup  of  aflliction  to  its  very 
dreffs.  Accordinolv,  as  soon  as  mv  business  was  all  settled  in  Salem, 
I  lost  no  lime  in  proceeding  to  Stonington. 


14Q  A  FATHER'S  COXSOLATIOX.  [1824. 

I  IouirI  my  father  in  good  health  ;  but  our  meeting  vas  painfully 
aflecting.  Such  scenes  can  better  be  imagined  than  described.  I 
thought  that  I  had  screwed  my  "  courage  to  the  sticking-place,"  and 
that  '^it  could  not  fail.  But  I  was  mistaken.  I  gave  him  my  hand 
witli  a  determination  to  betray  no  emotion,  and  to  keep  my  feelings  in 
complete  subjection.  He  grasped  it  convulsively,  and  essayed  to 
j^pcak — but  he  was  too  much  agitated.  He  turned  away  his  face  to 
conceal  his  tears,  which  were  now  falling  like  rain.  I  could  play  the 
stoic  no  longer.  The  sobs  of  anguish  were  tearing  his  aged  bosom. 
1  tlircw  myself  in  his  arms,  and  Me  wept  aloud. 

My  father  was  the  first  to  rouse  himself  from  this  temporar}-  "  melt- 
ing mood,"  so  unusual  to  us  both,  and  soon  became  calm  and  com- 
posed.    He  made  an  effort  to  speak,  and  succeeded. 

'•  My  son,"  said  he,  "  this  must  not  be.  It  is  wrong  to  murmur 
against  the  dispensations  of  a  merciful  Providence,  who  orders  every 
thing  for  the  best,  and  who  only  chastens  those  he  loves,  for  the 
gracious  purpose  of  reforming  and  making  them  eternally  happy.  *  The 
Lord  gave,  the  Lord  hath  taken  away,  and  blessed  be  the  name  of  the 
Lord.'  Those  who  aspire  to  perform  great  actions  should  never  suffer 
any  relaxation  in  that  mental  discipline  which  keeps  the  passions  in 
subjection.  You  were  born  for  higher  purposes  than  to  play  the  woman. 
The  ambitious  and  daring  spirit  which  you  have  ever  evinced  from 
early  childhood — your  recklessness  of  danger — ^}''our  love  of  travel, 
and  enthusiastic  devotedness  to  every  manly  pursuit  in  which  you 
engage, — are  all  favourable  indications  of  future  success  and  honour. 
Such  used  to  be  the  theme  of  your  boyish  prattle;  and  I  trust  your 
juvenile  dreams  may  be  yet  realized. 

"  You  therefore  should  never  give  way  to  those  sensitive  feelings, 
v.hich,  however  natural  and  amiable  in  themselves,  are  only  becoming, 
as  to  outward  expression,  in  females,  infants,  and  the  aged.  Men  of 
enterprise  and  ambition  should  always  retain  their  presence  of  mind 
in  the  most  trying  emergencies,  whether  of  trouble  or  of  danger.  As 
it  is  said  in  one  of  our  beautiful  hymns  their  fortitude  should  remain 
unshaken. 

Though  earth  were  from  her  centre  toss'd, 
And  mountains  in  the  ocean  lost, 
Torn  piecemeal  by  the  roaring  tide.' 

"  This,  my  son,  is  my  advice  ;  and  may  I  never  again  thus  see  you 
off  your  guard.  For  me  there  is  more  excuse.  I  am  old — and  you 
know,  Benjamin,  that  my  afflictions  are  of  no  ordinary  kind.  To  lose 
wives  and  children  in  the  ordinaiy  course  of  nature  can  be  borne  with 
humble  resignation.  But  to  lose  a  wife — to  lose  sons  as  I — "  Here 
the  poor  old  man  was  obliged  to  change  the  subject,  and  it  was  several 
days  before  he  ventured  to  renew  it. 

In  the  mean  time  I  recounted  to  him  and  the  rest  of  the  family  all 
the  little  incidents  of  my  wanderings  for  the  last  two  years  ;  and  made 
them  acquainted  with  the  arrangements  I  had  made  for  another  voyage 
of  equal  length  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  allotted  period  of  my  visit 
soon  expired ;  but  previous  to  my  departure  for  New-York,  my  father 


June.]  A  FATHER'S  ADVICE.  Ul 

resumed  the  broken  thread  of  his  former  discourse,  nearly  in  the  fol- 
lowing words,  which  are  deeply  engraven  on  my  memory  : — 

"  My  son,  as  you  are  about  to  embark  on  another  long  and  perilous 
voyage,  I  wish  you  to  pay  attention  to  my  counsel ;  for  age  and  ex- 
perience, as  well  as  my  parental  relationship  and  singular  misfortunes, 
all  entitle  me  to  the  privilege  of  giving  you  advice.  I  have  lived  long, 
and  suffered  much.  I  have  never  wronged  any  person,  knowingly, 
of  the  value  of  a  cent.  I  have  never  passed  the  poor  and  distressed 
without  giving  them  such  assistance  as  was  in  my  power,  without  neg- 
lecting duties  of  equal  importance.  I  iiave,  at  limes,  accumulated  a 
great  deal  of  property,  by  hard  labour  and  honest  industry.  This  has 
been  again  wrested  from  me,  often  by  the  deceit,  fraud,  and  villany  of 
my  fellow-creatures — sometimes  by  the  remorseless  elements.  1  have 
lost  nine  of  my  family  by  death  ;  six  of  whom,  including  your  mother, 
were  drovrned  at  different  times.  In  short,  a  minute  history  of  my 
misfortunes  woidd  fill  a  volume.  I  have  borne  up  against  the  weight 
as  well  as  I  could  ;  and  yet  it  is  pressing  me  towards  die  grave.  I 
believe,  however,  that  there  are  thousands  in  the  world  who  would 
have  sunk  under  the  load,  and  embraced  despair.  But  my  trust  is  in 
One  that  cannot  err.     '  Though  he  slay  me,  yet  will  I  trust  in  him.' 

"  Thus,  my  son,  you  see  the  advantages  of  manly  fortitude ;  and 
whatever  your  troubles  or  condition  may  be  in  this  life,  let  this  short 
precept  be  yom-  constant  guide — '  Do  your  duty  to-day,  and  leave  the 
morrow  to  Heaven.'  Do  to  others  as  you  would  have  others  do  to  you 
under  similar  circumstances.  Be  just  and  humane  to  all,  particularly 
to  those  who  are  subject  to  your  power.  Treat  your  seamen  kindly, 
and  they  will  serve  you  with  the  greater  fidelity.  Remember  that  the 
meanest  individual  has  feelings  that  ought  to  be  respected ;  and  that 
we  shall  all  one  day  meet  where  the  servant  will  be  equal  to  his  former 
master.  Distress  no  man.  Be  charitable  to  the  poor,  the  widow,  and 
the  orphan. 

"  As  a  ship-master,  my  son,  never  forget  that  you  are  the  steward 
of  others'  property,  and  that  he  who  is  not  faithful  over  a  little  will 
not  be  faithful  over  much.  Exert  yourself  for  the  interest  of  your  em- 
ployers. Shrink  not  from  hardships  or  dangers.  Be  not  lifted  up  in 
prosperity,  nor  meanly  depressed  in  adversity.  Be  bold  and  cheerful 
in  all  conditions  of  life.  Treat  every  man  with  the  respect  due  to  his 
real  merit.  Be  gentle  and  easy  in  your  manners.  Speak  evil  of  no 
one.  Shun  intemperance  as  you  would  a  Norwegian  whirlpool ;  for, 
once  within  its  fatal  vortex,  there  is  no  escape  for  body  or  soul.  Shun 
bad  company.  Love  your  Creator,  and  fear  to  offend  him.  Do  all 
the  good  you  can  for  your  fellow-creatures.  Be  one  of  the  foremost 
in  defence  of  your  country's  liberty  and  honour.  Never  let  passion 
become  the  master  of  your  reason ;  for  this  is  tolerating  a  mutiny  more 
dangerous  to  your  own  welfare  than  that  of  a  rebellious  crew.  He  is 
not  fit  to  command  a  great  ship  who  has  not  first  learned  to  command 
the  little  cock-boat  of  his  own  heart. 

"  In  the  hour  of  danger,  my  son,  never  allow  yourself  to  become 
confused ;  but  be  always  calm,  cool,  and  deliberate  ;  for  where  there 
is  confusion  there  is  always  danger  of  error  in  judgment.     Be  decisive 


142  A  FATHER'S  ADVICE.  [1824. 

in  your  plans,  and  have  confidence  in  your  own  decision.  Bully  no 
man — injure  no  man — fear  no  man.  Thus,  my  son,  you  have  the 
counsel  of  your  aged  and  affectionate  parent ;  one  that  is  acquainted 
with  sorrow,  and  familiar  with  grief.  May  Heaven  have  mercy  on 
you,  and  prosper  you  in  all  your  just  and  lawful  undertakings. 

"  One  more  suggestion,  and  I  have  done,  lie  that  would  lead  a  life 
of  usefulness  must  live  for  others,  and  not  for  himself;  and  that  you 
are  destined  for  such  a  life  is  plainly  indicated  by  the  physical  and 
moral  gifts  with  which  you  are  endowed.  Unavailing  and  unmanly 
grief  is  incompatible  with  a  proper  exercise  of  these  faculties,  and  de- 
stroys the  powers  of  usefulness.  Overcome  yours,  my  son,  and  labour 
to  forget  its  cause  as  soon  as  possible.  The  most  effectual  antidote 
that  can  be  recommended  to  a  man  like  you,  in  the  prime  of  manhood, 
with  considerable  property,  and  no  incumbrances,  is  to  unite  the  broken 
cord  of  affection  to  the  heart  of  another.  A  speedy  second  marriage 
would  restore  your  happiness,  and  extend  your  usefulness.  You  would 
then  have  an  additional  inducement  to  achieve  noble  projects,  and  a 
centre  point  of  attraction  to  call  you  home,  when  your  duties  were  ac- 
complished." 


SECOND  VOYAGE 


TO    THE 


PACIFIC  OCEAN,  SOUTH  SEAS,  &c. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Preparations  for  the  Second  Voyage — The  Schooner  Tartar  selected  and  pur- 
chased for  the  Purpose— A  Matrimonial  Contract — The  Voyage  commenced — 
Island  of  Fernando  IVoronha,  and  the  Roccas — Bahia,  or  the  Bay  of  All  Saints 
— City  of  St.  Salvador — Directions  for  entering  the  Harbour — Sail  from  Bahia — 
Island  of  St.  Catharine's — Island  of  Lobos — Rio  de  la  Plata — Monte  Video  and 
Buenos  Ayres — The  Falkland  Islands — Strait  of  Magellan — Peninsula  of  the 
Tliree  Mountains — Social  Affections  of  Seals — Moral  Reflections. 

In  pursuance  of  previous  arrangements,  I  proceeded  to  New-York, 
and  immediately  called  on  my  former  employers,  Messrs.  Byers, 
Rogers,  M*Intyre,  and  Nixon,  who  requested  me  to  look  about  among 
the  shipping  for  a  suitable  vessel  to  perform  the  contemplated  voyage. 
Finding  no  one  in  the  port  of  New- York  which  exactly  pleased  me,  I 
proceeded  to  Philadelphia,  and  from  thence  to  Baltimore ;  but  with 
no  better  success.  I  had  the  good  fortune,  however,  to  return  to 
New- York  just  as  the  schooner  Tartar  arrived  from  Curacao ;  a  sharp 
fast-sailing  vessel,  of  one  hundred  and  fifty-four  tons — in  short,  the  very 
craft  I  wanted.  ^ 

I  hastened  to  inform  the  above-named  gentlemen  of  my  success, 
who  immediately  struck  a  bargain  for  the  Tartar,  had  her  newly  cop- 
pered, and  jn  every  respect  completely  equipped  for  a  long  voyage. 
Provisions,  salt,  and  every  thing  necessaiy  or  convenient  for  the  enter- 
prise were  liberally  furnished  by  the  owners;  so  that  on  the  IStli  of 
July,  1824,  the  Tartar  was  lymg  in  the  North  River,  in  every  respect 
ready  for  sea. 

Constant  activity,  the  bustle  of  business,  and  the  natural  excitement 
of  my  present  occupations,  afforded  very  little  room  for  melancholy 
reflections ;  especially  as  every  hour's  relaxation  was  spent  in  the 
cheerful  and  affectionate  society  of  my  sisters,  my  cousins,  and  a  few 
of  their  fair  and  amiable  friends.  One  of  these  pretty  cousins  had 
long  been  a  favourite  with  us  all.  She  was  a  sprightly,  amiable  little 
girl,  not  yet  quite  five  years  in  her  teens ;  and  possessed  the  rare  fac- 
ulty of  winning  the  affections  of  all  around  her.  I  had  often  in  jest,  when 
I  had  nothing  to  bestow,  promised  to  make  her  my  heir ;  and  I  now 


144  A  MATRIMONIAL  ENGAGEMENT.  [1824. 

formed  the  resolution  of  doing  so  in  earnest ;  all  my  nearer  relatives  being 
sufficiently  provided  for.  1  was  on  the  eve  of  a  long  voyage  ;  life  was 
uncertain,  and  if  it  should  be  the  will  of  Providence  to  arrest  my 
earthly  career  while  at  a  distance  from  my  native  land,  I  should,  at 
least,  have  the  consolation  of  reflecting  that  my  pecuniary  affairs  at 
home  were  all  arranged  according  to  my  wishes. 

The  more  I  reflected  on  this  subject,  the  more  I  became  convinced 
of  its  propriety  ;  and  when  it  presented  itself  to  my  mind  as  it  often- 
times did,  in  connexion  with  the  parting  advice  of  my  father,  I  con- 
templated its  features  with  a  still  deeper  interest.  On  such  occasions, 
I  \  ery  naturally  asked  myself,  "  Why  not  seek  to  unite  the  broken 
cords,  spoken  of  by  my  father,  to  this  amiable  heart,  where  the  purest 
aflection  already  exists  ?  Why  may  I  not  find  here  that  centre-point 
of  attraction  which  is  to  correct  and  restrain  the  eccentricity  of  my 
wanderings  ?  Two  years  hence,  if  I  return  in  safety,  I  shall  find 
Abby  Jane  a  full-blown  flower,  instead  of  an  opening  bud ;  the  staid 
woman  instead  of  the  laughing  girl.  A  woman,  too,  every  way  cal- 
culated to  make  me  happy.  If  I  live  to  come  back,  and  Abby  Jane 
be  still  free,  I  shall  certainly  seek  to  win  her.  But  two  years  is  a 
long  time,  and  she  may  then  be  another's  !  I  know  of  no  female  like 
her.  So  mild,  so  gentle,  so  amiable,  so  aflectionate  to  her  relatives, 
so  lenient  to  the  failings  of  others,  so  benevolent  to  the  poor,  so  sooth- 
ing to  the  atflicted,  so  consoling  to  the  mourner.  I  could  not  resign 
her  to  anotlier,  unless,  indeed,  she  loved  another.  Her  affections  are 
now  free,  but  will  they  remain  so  ?  Before  I  sail  I  must  solicit  her 
promise  to  await  my  return.  She  will  then  be  marriageable,  and  of 
sufficient  maturity  to  become  the  mistress  of  a  family.  1  will  make 
the  trial." 

I  will  not  tire  the  reader  with  particulars.  Let  it  suffice  that  I 
"  wooed  and  won  ;"  I  obtained  the  desired  promise — 

••  She  loved  me  for  the  dansrers  I  had  passed, 
And  I  loved  her  ihat  she  did  pity  them." 

'  I  now  resolved,  previous  to  my  sailing,  not  only  to  give  her  a  legal 
claim  to  my  little  property,  but  also,  at  the  same  time,  to  interchange 
the  most  unequivocal  testimonials  of  otn*  mutual  sincerity,  by  having 
the  marriage  ceremony  actually  performed  in  the  presence  of  our 
friends.  This  was  done.  The  solemn  contract  was  ratified  at  the 
hymeneal  altar.  I  then  committed  my  virgin  bride  to  the  care  of  her 
friends  ;  gave  her  a  chaste  parting  kiss,  and  it  was  nearly  two  years 
before  I  saw  her  again.  It  was  then  I  followed  the  advice  of  my 
father,  and  have  ever  since  blessed  the  hour  that  I  did  so.  I  flatter 
myself  that  Abby  Jane  will  cordially  reciprocate  the  same  sentiment. 
She  is  every  thing  that  a  wife  and  a  mother  should  be.  But  enough 
of  my  own  affairs. 

July  19 th,  1824. — The  Tartar,  as  before  stated,  was  ready  for  sea 
on  the  18th  day  of  July.  On  Monday,  the  19th,  I  went  on  board,  and 
at  one,  P.  M.,  we  got  under  way,  and  proceeded  down  the  bay,  with 
the  wind  from  south-south-west,  and  fair  weather.  At  seven,  P.  M., 
we  discharged  the  pilot ;  and  at  nine,  took  our  departure  from  Sandy 


Aug.]  ISLAND  OF  FERNANDO  NORONHA.  I45 

Hook  light,  bearing  north-west-by-west,  distant  two  leagues ;  with  a 
fine  first-rate  vessel  under  our  feet,  and  a  strong  healthy  crew  of 
twenty-three  men,  including  officers.  The  crew  were  mostly  young 
men,  active,  enterprising,  and  chivalric  ;  reckless  of  danger  or  hard- 
ships, and  ready  for  adventure  of  any  kind,  that  was  lawful  and  hon- 
ourable. 

July  ^Ist. — We  steered  a  south-easterly  course  with  light  variable 
winds,  and  generally  fair  weather.  On  Saturday,  the  31st,  we  took 
the  north-east  trade-winds,  from  east-norlh-east,  and  squally ;  being 
then  m  latitude  30^  0'  N.,  long.  52^  0'  W.  from  Greenwich.  On  the 
following  day  the  wind  freshened,  and  hauled  to  east-by-south,  from 
which  quarter  it  continued  to  blow  with  little  variation,  but  very  light, 
for  more  than  a  fortnight. 

August  loth. — AVe  finally  lost  the  north-east  trades  on  Sunday,  the 
15th  of  August,  in  latitude  7^  10'  N.,  long  43^  15'  W.  From  this' 
time  our  course  was  much  retarded  by  calms,  occasionally  interrupted 
by  light  breezes  or  squalls  from  south-south-v.'est  to  south-south-east, 
attended  with  heavy  falls  of  rain.  We  took  every  advantage  that  was 
possible  of  these  winds  to  make  southerly,  so  that  twelve  days  more 
brought  us  to  the  equator. 

August  27tk. — On  Friday  the  27th,  we  crossed  the  equinoctial  line 
in  long.  30°  23'  W.  At  eight,  P.  JM.,  we  took  the  wind  from  south- 
east and  fair  weather.  The  usual  ceremonies  were  of  course  ob- 
served on  this  important  occasion. 

August  dOth. — On  Monday,  the  30th,  we  were  close  in  with  the 
west  end  of  Fernando  Noronha,  an  island  in  the  South  Atlantic  Ocean, 
about  sixty-seven  leagues  from  the  coast  of  Brazil,  lying  north-east 
from  Cape  St.  Roque,  in  latitude  3^  55'  S.,.long.  32^  29'  W.  This 
location  refers  to  the  centre  of  the  island,  which  is  about  seven  miles 
long,  and  two  or  two  and  a  quarter  broad.  This  island  was  formerly 
appropriated  by  the  Brazilian  government  to  a  like  purpose  with  thai 
of  Juan  Fernandez  by  the  government  of  Chili ;  viz.  for  a  place  of 
exile  for  theu'  vilest  criminals,  guarded  by  a  garrison  of  regular  troops. 
This  may  account  for  all  its  little  sandy  bays  and  anchorages  being 
defended  by  forts.  At  present  it  is  inhabited  by  about  two  hundi'ed 
colonists,  sixty  of  whom  are  soldiers. 

This  island  is  distinguished  by  a  high  rocky  peak  on  its  north  side, 
called  the  Pyramid^  vrhich  appears  very  rugged  and  barren ;  and  is 
rendered  still  more  remarkable  by  its  south-west  point,  called  the  Hoh 
in  the  TFc//,  vrhich  is  pierced  through,  giving  a  free  passage  to  the 
sea.  On  the  south  side  is  a  little  rocky  isle,  strongly  resembling  a 
statue.  When  viewed  from  a  distance,  the  Pyramid  has  the  appear- 
ance of  a  very  high  steeple  or  tower. 

Vessels  employed  in  the  southern  whale-fisheiy  often  stop  at  this 
island  to  procure  supplies  of  cattle,  sheep,  poultry,  wood,  vrater,  <S:c. 
The  latter,  however,  is  frequently  very  scarce ;  owing  to  the  rivulets 
being  all  dried  up  by  the  drought  at  particular  seasons  of  the  year, 
when  vegetation  also  becomes  parched  and  destroyed.  Though  this  is 
no  uncommon  occurrence,  it  is  neither  periodical  nor  regular.  There 
are  but  few  vegetablrs  to  be  procured  here  in  the  best  of  seasons,  but 

K 


146  FERNANDO  NORONHA— BAY  OF  ALL  SAINTS.        [1824. 

there  is  always  an  abundance  of  live-stock  and  fish,  with  an  immense 
quantity  of  doves.  Wood  may  be  obtained  here,  but  with  some  difil- 
cuUy,  as  there  is  danger  of  staving  the  boat  which  brings  it  off,  it 
being  nearly  as  heavy  as  so  much  iron,  and  sinking  in  the  water  with 
equal  rapidity. 

On  approacliing  this  island,  the  navigator  will  find  no  soundings 
imtil  close  aboard  of  it.  There  is  no  invisible  danger  near  it  except 
on  the  south  side,  where  there  are  some  rocks  between  two  and  three 
miles  from  the  shore ;  and  off  the  south-MCst  point,  where  there  is  a 
rock  at  the  distance  of  one-fourth  of  a  mile.  The  principal  anchoring 
place  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  island,  being  sheltered  by  the  north- 
eastern land  and  several  little  islands  in  that  direction.  Here  a  ship 
may  anchor,  in  from  ten  to  twelve  fathoms,  loose  sandy  bottom,  at 
jibout  half  a  mile  from  the  Citadel  Point,  which  is  the  nearest  shore. 
There  are  three  months,  however,  in  which  the  northerly  and  north-west 
winds  prevail,  when  it  is  not  safe  to  lie  close  in.  These  are  the 
months  of  January,  February,  and  March.  During  the  rest  of  the 
year  the  winds  are  mostly  from  the  south-east  and  east ;  sometimes 
north-east. 

The  southern  extremity  of  the  island  is  called  Tobacco  Point,  from 
■which  a  reef  of  rocks  extends  half  a  mile  to  the  south,  even  with  the 
surface  of  the  water.  Two  miles  and  a  half  south-east-by-east  from 
Tobacco  Point  there  is  a  rocky  reef  on  which  the  sea  always  breaks. 
AVhen  in  a  line  with  these  rocks  the  Pyramid  is  shut  in  with  the  highest 
liill  on  the  south  side  of  the  island.  Between  this  reef  and  the  shore 
there  is  a  channel  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  fathoms. 

About  seventeen  leagues  westward  of  Fernando  Noronha  are  some 
reefs  or  keys,  called  the  Roccas,  lying  in  latitude  3°  52'  S.,  long.  33^ 
21'  W.  Variation  4^  42'  W.  These  low  keys  or  islets  are  very 
dangerous,  being  sandy  spits  or  banks  formed  upon  coral  reefs,  with  a 
little  brush  or  shrubbery  growing  upon  them.  They  are  not  discerni- 
ble in  a  fine  clear  day  from  the  mast-head  at  a  ofreater  distance  than 
three  leagues,  and  are  distinguished  by  a  high  rock  at  their  north-east 
extremity.  When  within  two  miles  of  them,  the  water  shallows  grad- 
ually from  thirty  to  five  fathoms,  within  a  cable's  length  of  the  shore, 
coral  bottom. 

Here  the  current  generall}^  sets  to  the  westward,  at  the  rate  of  one 
mile  and  a  half  an  hour.  On  these  reefs,  in  1805,  two  of  the  East 
India  Company's  ships  were  lost,  being  deceived  by  the  currents, 
^vhich  have  been  known  at  times  to  run  for  a  day  or  two  at  the  rate 
of  three  miles  an  hour,  in  the  direction  of  west-north-west.  The  tide 
rises  and  falls  here  about  six  feet.  I  landed  on  these  keys  in  1822, 
and  found  perfectly  smooth  landing  on  the  west  side  of  the  large  one. 

September  5th.- — We  left  Fernando  Noronha,  on  Tuesday,  the  31st 
of  August,  with  a  fme  breeze  fi'om  east-south-east,  and  on  Sunday 
the  5th  of  September,  cast  anchor  in  the  Bay  of  All  Saints,  in  the 
Brazilian  Province  of  Baha  de  Todos  Santos^  of  which  the  city  of 
^t.  Salvador  is  the  capital.  At  nine,  A.  M.,  we  were  safely  moored 
in  five  fathoms  of  water,  between  Fort  do  Mar  and  the  city.  "  Here," 
says  Lindley,  in  his  Voyage  to   Brazil,   "  vessels   riding   on  clear 


Sept.]  CITY  OF  ST.  SALVADOR.  I47 

ground  may  be  sheltered  from  every  wind,  and  surroimded  by  a 
country  exuberantly  rich,  in  a  gulf  which  seems  as  if  formed  by  na- 
ture for  the  emporium  of  the  universe."  By  this  work  we  are  also 
informed,  that  "  the  province  of  Bahia  comprises  fifty  leagues  of  coast, 
and  that  though  one  of  the  smallest  provinces  of  Brazil,  it  is  the  most 
fertile,  populous,  and  luxuriant." 

The  Bay  of  All  Saints,  is  a  conspicuous  feature  on  the  map  of 
South  America.  It  is  on  the  south-eastern  coast  of  Brazil,  nearly  half- 
way between  the  equator  and  the  tropic  of  Capricorn.  The  coast 
here  runs  in  the  direction  of  north-east  and  south-west,  and  this  bay 
opens  to  the  south,  the  eastern  side  of  its  entrance  being  a  peninsula, 
on  which  stands  the  city  of  St.  Salvador,  in  latitude  13°  30'  S.,  long. 
38°  24'  AV.  It  is  in  fact,  an  inland  sea,  or  gulf,  which  receives  the 
waters  of  several  large  rivers.  The  entrance  of  this  bay  is  seven 
miles  broad,  from  the  peninsula  on  the  east  side  to  the  island  of 
Taporica,  on  the  west ;  and  the  gulf  within  is  more  than  thirty-two 
leagues  in  circumference.  The  extreme  point  of  the  entrance,  on  the 
eastern  side,  is  called  Cape  St.  Antonio,  on  which  stands  the  light- 
house, and  an  antique  fort.  The  lantern  of  the  lighthouse  is  ele- 
vated about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  city  of  St.  Salvador  stands  on  an  eminence,  at  the  eastern 
side  of  the  bay.  It  occupies  a  considerable  space  ;  being  situated  on 
unequal  ground,  and  interspersed  with  plantations.  JMany  of  the 
buildings  are  old  and  ill-constructed ;  but,  as  in  other  Catholic  cities, 
the  churches  are  the  most  distinguished  edifices.  The  grand  church 
of  the  ex-jesuits  is  justly  considered  the  most  elegant  structure  of  the 
city.  The  cathedral  is  a  large  gothic  pile,  but  much  dilapidated  by 
time  and  the  fervid  influence  of  a  tropical  sun.  Besides  the  churches 
within  the  city,  there  are  two  near  the  bar,  called  St.  Antonio  and 
Yittoria,  wliich  form  excellent  landmarks  for  navigators.  They  are 
all  so  situated  as  to  command  a  fine  prospect  of  the  bay  and  sm-round- 
ing  country. 

The  governor's  palace,  in  the  royal  square,  is  an  old,  indifferent-look- 
ing building.  On  one  side  of  this  square  are  the  senate-hall  and  the 
prison ;  on  another,  the  mint  and  public  ofiices ;  and  on  the  third,  the 
court-house  of  the  relacao.  The  prison  is  a  spacious,  gloomy-looking 
edifice,  in  the  construction  of  which  strength  alone  appears  to  have 
been  studied.  The  dungeons  have  no  doors,  but  are  entered  through 
grated  traps  in  the  ceiling.  The  principal  hall  in  the  first  story,  which 
is  well  secured,  is  surrounded  by  dark  cells,  or  secretos,  about  six  feet 
square.  These  have  strong  close  doors,  each  furnished  with  a  heavy 
chain  fastened  to  a  ring  in  the  wall,  and  were  originally  constructed 
for  inquisitorial  victims,  and  those  suspected  of  political  ofiences. 
There  were  about  two  hundred  persons  confined  here  for  various 
crimes,  real  or  alleged,  in  1824,  and  no  food  is  provided  for  them  by 
government,  nor  any  indulgence  except  water.  A  religious  society, 
however,  called  the  Miserkordia,  or  Order  of  Mercy,  is  allowed  to  fur- 
nish the  poor  wretches  with  meal,  soup,  and  other  provisions ;  and 
obtains  the  means  by  soliciting  charitable  donations  in  all  parts  oi 
the  city. 

:k2 


148  CITY  OF  ST.  SALVADOR.  [1824. 

The  streets  arc  narrow,  badly  paved,  and  horribly  filthy ;  and  were 
it  not  for  the  peculiar  salubrity  of  the  air,  the  heat  would  doubtless 
produce  very  fatal  effects  on  the  health  of  the  inhabitarits.  For  the 
line  air  the  city  is  indebted  to  its  elevated  situation  ;  for  it  is  literally 
*'  a  city  that  is  set  upon  a  hill."  The  back-yards,  generally,  are  no- 
thing but  noisome  receptacles  of  filth,  unfit  for  description.  Some 
exceptions  there  must  be,  of  course  ;  and  these  are  found  in  a  few  ele- 
gant mansions,  roomy  and  convenient,  occupied  by  the  opulent.  But 
even  these  are  shabbily  furnished,  and  not  a  whit  too  clean,  inside 
or  out. 

The  city  of  St.  Salvador  is  protected  by  several  forts  and  otlier 
works  of  defence,  the  principal  of  which  is  Fort  do  Mar,  which  has 
been  built  more  than  two  hundred  years.  It  stands  on  a  small  rocky 
bank  of  ilie  inner  bay,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,  and  consists 
of  a  castellated  tower,  of  one  hundred  feet  diameter,  similar  to  that  on 
Governor's  Island  in  the  harbour  of  New- York,  surrounded  by  an  ex- 
tensive lower  battery  of  a  later  date.  The  entire  diameter  is  about 
two  hundred  and  seventy  feet.  The  lower  battery  mounts  thirty  guns, 
vaiying  in  their  caliber  from  twenty-four  to  forty-two  pounds.  From 
the  level  of  the  lower  battery  the  tower  rises  perhaps  thirty  feet ;  the 
upper  battery  containing  only  sixteen  gmis,  twenty-four  and  eighteen 
pounders.  The  top  is  paved  with  flagstones,  sloping  towards  the 
centre,  so  that  all  the  rain  which  falls  on  its  surface  descends  through 
a  grate  into  an  extensive  reservoir  below,  of  capacity  sufficient  to 
supply  the  garrison  for  six  months.  Merchant-ships  usually  anchor 
between  this  fortress  and  the  city.  The  custom-house  and  dock-yard 
are  on  the  beach. 

The  population  of  St.  Salvador  is  said  to  be  upwards  of  one  hun- 
dred thousand ;  of  these,  forty  thousand  are  negroes,  and  thirty  thou- 
sand are  mulattoes.  It  is  a  place  of  considerable  commerce,  export- 
ing cotton,  sugar,  coffee,  tobacco,  lignumvilae,  mahogany,  satin  and 
tulip  woods,  gums,  balsams,  medical  roots,  and  aqua-ardent,  a  sort  of 
i*um.  In  return,  they  import  from  Europe  wine,  flour,  bacalhao,  but- 
ter, cheese-,  salt,  &:c.  From  Africa  they  receive  wax  and  gold-dust, 
in  exchange  for  coarse-printed  cottons,  spirits,  and  tobacco.  Their 
coasting  trade  is  also  prosperous,  and  their  inland  commerce  im- 
mense. 

The  meat  market  is  miserable,  the  beef  being  unworthy  of  the  name ; 
while  mutton,  lamb,  and  veal  are  nearly  unknown.  There  are  no 
inns  or  boarding  houses ;  strangers  who  choose  to  live  on  shore  must 
hire  the  whole  or  part  of  a  house,  and  furnish  it.  There  are  some 
cookshops  or  eating-houses,  which  are  distinguished  by  their  surpassing 
filthiness,  and  a  flag  of  three  colours  over  the  door.  There  are  also 
many  coffee-shops,  which  are  equally  unattractive. 

In  entering  the  harbour,  a  ship  will  have  from  fourteen  to  sixteen 
fathoms  of  water,  within  half  a  mile  of  the  eastern  shore,  deepening 
to  the  westward  to  eighteen  or  twenty  fathoms,  until  two-thirds  across  ; 
beyond  which  heavy  ships  ought  not  to  proceed.  To  the  westward 
of  this  are  overfalls,  shoaling  from  fourteen  to  six  and  a  half  fathoms, 
then  deepening  again  to  twelve ;  and  in  some  places,  while  yet  nearly 


Sept.]  HARBOUR  OF  ST.  SALVADOR.  X4^ 

three  miles  east  of  Taporica,  no  more  than  three  fathoms  will  be 
foimd. 

Vast  reefs  of  rocks  lie  off  the  eastern  point  of  Taporica,  extending 
from  the  shore  to  the  distance  of  a  mile.  A  cable's  length  eastward 
of  these,  the  depth  is  six  fathoms,  rapidly  increasing  to  twelve,  eigh- 
teen, twenty-four,  and  twenty-six  fathoms — soft  muddy  bottom.  An 
ugly  shoal,  perhaps  a  mile  in  length,  Ues  about  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  from  Fort  do  Mar,  in  the  direction  of  west-north-west  three- 
quarters  west,  on  some  parts  of  which  are  only  three  and  a  half 
fathoms,  at  three-quarters  ebb ;  on  other  parts  are  ten  fathoms,  rocky 
bottom.  Around  tliis  shoal,  however,  there  is  good  anchorage.  The 
watering-place  is  at  a  short  distance  from  the  south  end  of  the  to^vn, 
between  the  latter  and  Fort  St.  Pedro.  Off  the  latter  is  a  shoal  ex- 
tending along-shore,  about  one-third  of  a  mile  distant.  This  was  the 
place  where  the  Enghsh  sloop  of  war  Bonne  Citoyenne  grounded,  in 
1812. 

In  approaching  All  Saint's  Bay  from  the  north,  a  good  berth  must 
be  given  to  Cape  St.  Antonio,  as  a  sandy  shoal  extends  from  it,  in  a 
southerly  direction,  about  five  miles ;  having  generally  over  it  from 
three  to  four  fathoms  of  water.  At  the  distance  of  six  or  seven  miles, 
tliis  bank  may  be  rounded  in  eight  or  ten  fathoms.  Large  ships 
should  therefore  keep  at  this  distance  from  the  point  until  the  light- 
house come  on  with  a  double-spired  convent  which  stands  on  a  hill, 
bearing  north  eight  degrees  east ;  or  until  ]Montserrat  Point  comes  open 
of  Fort  Cabo.  They  should  then  steer  in  this  direction,  giving  Fort 
Cabo  a  berth  of  three  cables'  length,  and  proceed  up  the  harbour.       . 

The  best  anchorage  for  ships  of  war  is  in  ten  or  twelve  fathoms, 
with  Fort  do  Mar  bearing'  north  73^  east,  and  Montserrat  Fort  bearing 
north  28°  west,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  city.  Merchant- 
vessels  generally  lie  betvvcen  the  city  and  Fort  do  Mar,  near  the  spot 
now  occupied  by  the  Tartar. 

September  Gth. — We  commenced  filling  water,  and  getting  some 
ironwork  repaired  which  we  had  carried  away  on  our  passage  out. 
From  the  American  consul  I  received  every  attention  and  assistance 
that  kindness  and  politeness  could  prompt ;  and  many  of  the  merchants 
imitated  his  example.  I  was  also  very  politely  treated  by  the  officers 
of  government.  liOrd  Cochrane,  likewise,  who  was  at  this  lime  in 
port,  together  with  his  oliicers,  showed  me  some  marked  civilities. 
Our  repairs  were  soon  completed,  and  the  vessel  well  supplied  with 
water  and  fresh  provisions. 

September  10//f. — Having  taken  leave  of  our  friends,  we  weighed 
anchor,  and  got  under  way  on  Friday,  the  10th  of  September,  at  two 
P.  M.,  and  resumed  our  course  to  the  south,  with  light  trade-winds 
Jrom  east  to  east-north-east,  and  fair  weather.  On  Sunday,  the  19tli, 
we  lost  the  south-east  trade-winds,  in  lat.  26°  30'  S.,  long.  47°  4'  W. 
Variation  7°  13'  easterly. 

September  20th. — On  the  following  day  we  passed  along  the  eastern 
shore  of  Arvoredo,  an  island  near  St.  Catharine's,  the  latter  being  a 
principal  island  on  the  coast  of  the  south  part  of  Brazil.     The  centre 


150  ISLAND  OF  ST.  CATHARINE'S.  [1824. 

of  the  eastern  point  of  Arvoredo  is  in  lat.  27°  16'  S.,  long.  48°  1' 
W.  At  seven  A.  M.  we  were  close  in  witli  the  east  side  of  St.  Catha- 
rine's, the  north-east  point  of  which  is  in  lat.  27°  26'  S.,  long.  48°  24 
W.     Variation  8°  7'  easterly. 

This  island  presents  a  beautiful  appearance  while  approaching  it 
from  sea.  The  port  or  anchorage  is  easy  of  access,  and  well  sheltered  ; 
and  I  would  recommend  this  port,  in  preference  to  any  other  on  the 
coast,  as  a  stopping  place  for  whalemen  and  others  to  procure  re- 
freshments. The  inhabitants  are  honest  and  lionourable  in  their  deal- 
ings with  strangers,  not  permitting  any  impositions  to  be  practised  on 
them.  They  are  friendly  to  all  foreigners,  particularly  from  the 
United  States.  By  showing  a  due  degree  of  politeness  to  the  gov- 
ernor, captain  of  the  port,  collector,  &c.,  accompanied  with  a  few 
presents,  a  ship-master  will  secure  a  prompt  attention  to  his  interests, 
and  find  himself  ultimately  the  gainer.  I  learned  this  fact  by  touch- 
ing here  while  I  was  mate  of  the  Wasp,  in  1820.  Wood  and  water 
of  an  excellent  quality  can  be  had  here  in  great  abundance ;  as  can 
also  provisions  and  fruit  of  every  description :  fish  alone  are  scarce. 
Beef,  pork,  fowls,  &;c.  are  very  cheap.  The  climate  is  healthy,  the 
harbour  excellent,  the  inhabitants  liberal  and  accommodating. 

The  scenery  in  the  island  of  St.  Catharine's  is  embellished  by  its 
steep  and  conical  rocks,  and  the  wood-covered  mountains  on  the  neigh- 
bouring continent,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  narrow  strait  or  bay. 
"  Nothing,"  says  Commodore  Porter,  "  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  the 
great  bay  to  the  north,  formed  by  the  island  of  St.  Catharine's  and 
the  continent.  There  is  every  variety  to  give  beauty  to  the  scene — 
handsome  villages,  and  houses  built  around  shores  which  gradually 
ascend  in  mountains,  covered  to  their  summits  with  trees  which  re- 
main in  constant  verdure ;  a  climate  always  temperate  and  healthy ; 
small  islands  scattered  here  and  there,  equally  covered  with  verdiu'e ; 
the  soil  extremely  productive  ;  all  combine  to  render  it,  in  appearance, 
the  most  delightful  country  in  the  world."  The  commodore  is  cor- 
rect ;  and  he  might  have  added  that  the  summer  heats  are  agreeably 
tempered  by  refreshing  breezes  from  the  south-west  and  north-east. 
The  former  continue  from  April  to  August ;  the  latter  from  September 
to  March.  This  island  was  at  one  time  covered  with  lofty  trees  ;  but 
the  most  of  them  have  been  cut  down  and  used  in  ship-building.  The 
soil  in  the  interior  is  humid  and  very  fertile,  and  an  extraordinary  pro- 
fusion of  flowers  indicates  a  genial  climate.  The  jessamine  and  the 
rose  are  in  bloom  throughout  the  year. 

In  entering  this  port  from  the  north,  it  is  best  to  steer  between  the 
islands  Gal  and  Arvoredo,  leaving  a  small  rocky  island  on  the  right, 
called  St.  Pedro.  "  The  latter  lies  three  and  a  half  miles  west-north- 
west of  Arvoredo.  A  south-south-west  and  south-west-bv-south  course 
leads  directly  to  Fort  Santa  Cruz.  The  anchorage  is  perfectly  safe 
everywhere,  whether  to  the  northw^ard  or  southward  of  the  fort ;  yet 
it  is  better  to  anchor  to  the  southward,  as  well  on  account  of  com- 
munication with  the  town,  as  of  the  vicinity  to  the  village  of  St. 
Miguel,  where  the  best  water  is  to  be  procured.     In  coming  to  St. 


Sept.]  RIO  DE  LA  PLATA— MONTE  VIDEO.  151 


Catharine's  from  the  south,  yow  steer  between  the  island  of  Arvoredo 
and  that  of  St.  Catharine.     This  passage  is  perfectly  safe."* 

September  ^Qth. — After  leaving  this  island  in  our  wake,  we  pursued 
the  same  course  towards  the  south,  wafted  along  by  moderate  breezes 
from  nortli-east  to  north-west,  mnil  Sunday,  the  26th ;  when,  at  four 
A.  M.,  we  saw  the  island  of  Lobos,  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  La 
Plata,  lying  four  miles  to  the  south  of  the  east  point  of  Maldonado, 
which  is  the  northern  boundary  of  this  great  river  on  the  coast.  Its 
southern  coast  boundary  is  Cape  St.  Antonio,  bearing  south-south-west 
one-quarter-west  from  the  eastern  extremity  of  Maldonado.  Rio  de 
la  Plata's  immense  mouth  is,  consequently,  forty-one  leagues  in  breadth  ; 
though  some  geographers  call  the  distance  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles. 
The  narrow,  rockv  islet  Lobos,  just  mentioned,  is  in  lat.  35°  1'  30" 
S.,  long.  54^  46'  W. 

The  Rio  de  la  Plata  is  a  river  of  the  first  rank,  being  formed  by- 
the  union  of  the  three  great  rivers  Paraguay,  Uragua,  and  Parana ; 
which  have  themselves  been  previously  augmented  by  the  waters  of 
the  Pilcomayo,  Solado,  Tercero,  and  the  Rio  Grande.  Two  of  these 
rivers  have  their  rise  near  the  two  opposite" coasts  of  South  America; 
from  whence  their  course  is,  nnlike  all  other  rivers,  directly  y}'om  their 
neighbouring  oceans,  into  the  heart  of  the  country.  The  south-eastern 
sources  of  the  Parana  are  within  fifty  miles  of  the  Atlantic,  while  the 
Pilcomayo  has  its  rise  among  the  Andes,  near  Potosi,  about  the  same 
distance  from  the  Pacific  Ocean.  They  then  flow  towards  each  other, 
and  ultimately  unite  with  many  other  streams  to  form  that  immense 
assemblage  of  waters  named  Rio  de  la  Plata,  which  finally  changes 
its  course  and  empties  into  the  Atlantic.  This  river  is  so  wide  at 
Buenos  Ayres,  which  is  two  hundred  miles  inland  from  its  mouth,  that 
the  opposite  shore  is  not  to  be  discerned  from  that  town ;  and  at 
Monte  Video,  which  is  nearly  one  hundred  miles  up  the  river,  neither 
shore  can  be  seen  from  a  vessel  in  the  middle  of  the  channel ! 

I  visited  jNIonte  Video  and  Buenos  Ayres  in  1819,  while  mate  of  the 
Spanish  brig  St.  Joseph,  Captain  Don  Michael  Juley,  and  will  in  this 
place  briefly  state  the  result  of  my  observations  while  ascending  this 
mighty  river,  or  rather  estuary.  Of  course  I  shall  not  attempt  to  give 
any  sailing  directions,  but  refer  navigators  to  that  excellent  work  en- 
titled the  "  New  Sailing  Directory,"  by  John  Purdy,  Esq.  The  few 
remarks  which  my  avocations  permitted  at  that  time  are  merely  intro- 
duced here  for  the  benefit  of  the  general  reader. 

Near  the  east  point  of  Maldonado  is  Cape  Santa  Maria,  which  forms 
the  northern  boundary  of  the  mouth  of  La  Plata,  and  is  in  lat.  34^ 
40'  S.,  long.  54^  0'  30"  W.  On  doubling  this  cape  and  rounding 
Point  Este,  we  arrived  in  the  Bay  of  Maldonado,  having  passed  the 
Lobos  on  its  north  side.  The  town  of  Maldonado,  which  from  the 
sea  has  no  very  attractive  appearance,  is  built  on  the  brow  of  a  sloping- 
hill,  two  miles  from  the  shore,  and  is  said  to  contain  only  about  one 
thousand  inhabitants.  We  made  no  stop  here,  but  kept  on,  in  nearly 
a  westerly  course,  leaving  a  small  island,  called  Flores,  on  the  star- 

*  M.  Krusenstern. 


152  MONTE  VIDEO— BUENOS  AYRES.  [1824. 

board  quarter,  and  passing  Point  Brava,  about  four  leagues  farther 
west,  until  we  finally  anchored  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  about  two 
miles  from  the  town  of  Monte  Video,  which  is  situated  on  the  north 
bank  of  this  great  river,  about  sixty  miles  from  its  mouth,  in  lat.  34^ 
54'  S.,  long.  56°  14'  W.,  being  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles 
east  of  Buenos  Ayres. 

Monte  Video,  which  is  the  capital  of  a  republic  bearing  the  same 
appellation,  extending  from  Rio  de  la  Plata  to  the  southern  boundary 
of  Brazil,  derives  its  name  from  a  mountain  in  the  vicinity  of  the  port, 
on  which  is  a  lighthouse,  built  on  a  gentle  ascent,  and  fortified.  This 
city  was  built  by  a  Spanish  colony  from  Buenos  Ayres,  and  was  for 
a  long  time  a  bone  of  contention  between  Spain  and  Portugal.  When 
Buenos  Ayres  at  last  threw  off  the  Spanish  yoke,  the  Brazilian  gov- 
ernment seized  on  that  event  as  a  pretext  for  taking  forcible  possession 
of  Monte  Video.  It  was  recovered  by  the  republicans,  m  1814,  after 
a  long  siege,  and  again  retaken  by  the  Brazilians,  in  1821.  In  1828 
it  became  what  it  now  is,  by  treaty. 

The  streets  of  the  city  are  wide,  straight,  and  well  paved.  The 
houses  are  generally  of  one  story,  with  flat  roofs  ;  the  principal  build- 
ing of  the  place  being  a  cathedral.  The  climate  is  said  to  be  moist, 
agitated  by  frequent  storms  in  the  summer ;  and  the  cold  is  generally 
severe  in  the  winter  months  of  June,  July,  and  August.  It  is,  how- 
ever, considered  the  best  port  in  the  La  Plata,  and  an  extensive  trade 
is"  earned  on  in  tallow,  ox-hides,  and  salt  beef.  Their  imports  are 
manufactured  goods,  coffee,  sugar,  6ic.  The  population  has  been  va- 
riously estimated,  and  is,  perhaps,  about  fifteen  thousand ;  consisting 
of  Spaniards,  Creoles,  and  slaves.  The  town  has  been  greatly  injured 
by  different  sieges  and  contests. 

The  cattle  are  very  abundant  in  the  interior,  grazing  on  the  plains 
of  ]Monte  Video,  and  are  of  larger  size  than  those  in  the  neishbour- 
hood  of  Salamanca,  in  old  Spain,  which  are  said  to  be  the  largest  in 
that  country.  They  are  as  useful  to  the  inhabitants  as  the  reindeer 
or  camel  to  the  liaplanders  or  Arabs.  Independent  of  their  flesh  and 
hides,  cups,  spoons,  combs  and  pitchers  are  madeof  tlieir  horns,  while 
soap  and  candles  are  obtained  from  their  tallow.  The  wild  oxen  are 
easilv  tamed,  and  miiiht  become  a  source  of  wealth  in  the  hands  of  a 
more  industrious  people. 

From  the  town  of  Monte  Video,  or,  as'  some  call  it,  the  city  of  St. 
Philip,  to  Buenos  Ayres,  the  course  is  from  south-west  to  west-north- 
west, varying  occasionally  to  accommodate  circumstances.  The  de- 
scending current  runs  at  the  rate  of  about  three  miles  an  hour,  though 
some  have  reported  that  they  found  its  velocity  to  be  twice  that  amounts 
At  the  river's  mouth,  indeed,  the  current  is  so  rapid  as  to  freshen  the 
water  for  some  distance  in  the  ocean. 

Buenos  Ayres  was  founded  in  1535,  by  Don  Pedro  Mendoza,  who 
gave  it  that  name  on  account  of  the  salubrity  of  its  climate.  It  is 
built  in  the  middle  of  a  plain,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  Plata,  about 
seventy  leagues  from  its  mouth,  and  is  in  lat.  34°  35' S.,  long.  58°  31' 
W.  The  situation  is  very  agreeable  and  healthy,  the  temperature  of 
the  atmosphere  being  nearly  the  same  throughout  the  year.     It  is  so 


Sept.]  CITY  OF  BUENOS  AYRES.  I53 

moist,  however,  that  the  floors  of  the  rooms  exposed  to  the  south  are 
always  damp ;  and  walls,  havmg  the  same  aspect,  are  covered  with 
3noss,  and  the  roofs  with  grass.  This  humidity,  it  seems,  is  not  at 
all  prejudicial  to  heahh  in  that  climate. 

There  is  no  harbour  at  Buenos  Ayres,  nor  even  so  much  as  a  mole 
or  wharf  to  facilitate  the  landing  of  boats.  Ships  of  any  burthen  can 
only  approach  within  eight  miles  of  the  town,  where  they  anchor  in 
what  is  called  the  outer  road.  Smaller  vessels  proceed  three  or  four 
miles  farther,  and  anchor  in  the  inner  road,  which  is  much  nearer  the 
city.  The  cargoes  are  taken  out  by  lighters  or  boats,  and  are  con- 
veyed on  shore  through  a  little  river  or  channel  called  Rio  Chuelo, 
where  the  merchandise  is  put  into  carts,  and  conveyed  to  its  place  of 
destination. 

AVhen  viewed  from  the  anchorage,  the  city  has  a  stately  and  even 
a  magniiicent  appearance  ;  although  it  lies  low,  as  the  flat  on  which  it 
is  built  is  only  about  eighteen  feet  above  the  level  of  the  water.  The 
houses  too,  in  general,  are  very  low,  many  of  them  having  no  more 
than  a  ground-floor,  with  a  flat  roof.  They  are  mostly  built  of  brick 
or  chalk,  and  plastered  on  the  outside.  But  the  lofty  domes  of  religious 
edifices,  rising  in  bold  relief  against  the  sky,  produce  a  very  imposing 
efl^ect.  The  most  elevated  of  these  are  the  cathedral,  St.  Miguel,  St. 
Domingo,  St.  Francisco,  St.  Merced,  &c.  The  citadel,  which  includes 
tlie  governor's  palace,  stands  upon  the  shore,  or  the  bank  of  the  river, 
forming  one  side  of  the  great  square,  opposite  to  which  stands  the 
town-hall ;  the  cathedral  and  episcopal  palace  form  the  other  tvv'o  sides 
of  the  square,  in  the  centre  of  which  a  public  market  is  held  daily. 

The  city  is  built  with  great  regularity,  the  streets  being  straight  and 
broad,  bordered  with  raised  footpaths  on  each  side,  like  those  of  the 
United  States.  These  footpaths  are  paved,  but  ov\h]g  to  the  great 
scarcity  of  stone,  the  carriage-ways  in  the  middle  are  left  unpaved. 
There  are  several  handsome  squares  wliich  at  once  adorn  the  city 
and  promote  its  health.  Most  of  the  houses  are  furnished  with  a  large 
court-yard  and  a  garden.  Among  the  public  buildings,  besides  those 
already  mentioned,  are  four  monasteries,  two  nunneries,  two  hospitals, 
royal  chapel,  college,  public  library  of  twenty  thousand  volumes, 
academy,  eight  public  schools,  and  twelve  or  fifteen  churches.  Seve- 
ral of  these  buildings  are  large  and  splendid. 

?>Iany  of  the  iuhabitants  have  country-seats,  called  quintas,  where 
are  produced  all  kinds  of  fruit  and  vegetables  ;  among  which  peaches 
are  said  to  be  remarkably  abundant.  Melons  are  also  plenty  and 
cheap.  Among  the  other  fruits  are  grapes,  apples,  pears,  figs,  necta- 
rines, pomegranates,  quinces,  apricots,  oranges,  and  lemons.  Common 
garden  vegetables,  with  the  exception  of  potatoes,  are  sold  in  the  m«ar- 
ket,  but  not  very  cheap,  as  the  price  of  labour  is  high.  Generally 
speaking,  the  environs  of  the  city  are  well  cultivated,  furnishing  all  the 
necessaries  and  many  of  the  luxuries  of  life  in  abinulance.  Their 
wine  has  to  be  brought  from  Spain  or  Mendoza  ;  the  latter  is  a  city 
of  Cordova,  in  the  United  Provinces  of  La  Plata,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Andes,  on  one  of  the  sources  of  t!ie  Colorado. 

The  most  expensive  article  at  Buenos  Ayres  is  firewood ;  which  is 


154  BUENOS  AYRES— NEW  ISLAND.  [1824. 

the  case  also  at  Monte  Video ;  as  in  the  neighbourhood  of  these 
places  there  are  no  forest-trees,  and  only  a  few  shrubs  tliat  are  hardly 
fit  for  fuel.  All  their  limber  for  building  houses  and  repairing  ships, 
comes  from  Paraguay  in  rafts.  There  is  a  great  trade  carried  on  here 
in  ox-hides  and  tallow ;  their  exports  and  imports  being  the  same  as 
those  of  Monte  Video. 

The  population  of  Buenos  Ay  res  is  about  seventy  thousand,  not 
more  than  one-fourth  of  which  are  whites  ;  the  rest  being  negroes, 
Indians,  and  various  mixtures  of  blood.  The  inhabitants  were  among 
the  first  in  the  Spanish  provinces  that  distinguished  themselves  in  the 
cause  of  independence.  Their  republican  era  commenced  on  the 
25th  of  May,  1810.  Four  years  previous,  in  1806,  it  was  conquered 
by  a  British  squadron,  under  Admiral  Popham  and  General  Beresford. 
Soon  afterward,  the  citizens,  having  recovered  from  their  panic,  attacked 
their  invaders  by  surprise,  and  made  a  great  slaughter  among  them. 
In  the  following  vear  Whitelock  and  Crawford  came  over  with  rein- 
forcements.  They  were  permitted  to  enter  the  city  unmolested,  and 
considered  their  expedition  crowned  with  success,  when  the  citizens 
attacked  them  so  suddenly,  and  with  such  resistless  fury,  that  a  third 
part  of  the  English  were  destroyed.  The  remainder  were  glad  to 
make  a  truce ;  and  in  February,  1825,  England  acknowledged  their 
independence  by  treaty,  as  the  United  States  had  already  done. 

The  river  La  Plata  M'as  first  discovered  by  Juan  Dias  de  Salis,  in 
the  year  1515,  and  was  forjsome  time  called  the  river  Salis,  after 
his  own  name.  In  sailing  up  this  arm  of  the  sea,  he  observed  some 
Indian  tents  on  the  shore,  and  imprudently  landed  with  ten  men,  who 
were  all  murdered  by  the  savages.  It  was  afterward  called  Hio  de  la 
Plata,  or  the  "  lliver  of  Silver,"  from  the  great  quantity  of  that  metal 
found  by  those  who  first  visited  the  countries  adjacent  to  its  banks. 
These  banks  are  sometimes  overflowed,  like  those  of  the  Nile,  which 
renders  them  very  fertile  in  every  thing  but  timber.  Its  waters,  whicli 
abound  M'ith  fish  of  various  kinds,  are  clear,  sweet,  and  wholesome  ; 
and  the  country  on  each  side  is  well  tenanted  by  birds  of  a  beautiful 
plumage,  which  build  their  nests  in  the  shrubbery.  Near  the  entrance 
of  this  river,  bearing  south-east  from  the  eastern  point  of  Maldonado, 
is  the  island  of  Lobos  before  mentioned,  near  which  I  left  the  Tartar 
in  order  to  make  the  above  digression. 

On  finding  that  there  were  already  men  stationed  on  tliis  island  for 
the  purpose  of  taking  fur-seals,  I  concluded  not  to  stop,  but  to  shape 
our  course  direct  for  tlie  P'alkland  Islands,  having  a  fine  breeze  from 
north-north-west,  and  fair  weather. 

October  1th. — Nothing  material  occurred  on  the  passage,  unless  a 
few  strong  breezes  and  moderate  gales,  from  various  points  of  the 
compass,  can  be  called  so,  until  Thursday,  the  7th  of  October,  when, 
at  six  A.  M.,  we  cast  anchor  in  Shallop  Cove,  a  place  already  familiar 
to  the  reader,  on  the  east  side  of  New  Island,  in  three  fathoms  of 
water.* 

'  V*  '"  addition  to  Avhat  is  said  of  these  islands  in  the  first  voyage,  it  may  not  be  improper  to  state  in 
this  place  that  the  government  of  Buenos  Ayres  look  possession  of  tli'e  whole  group  in  1S20;  but 
they  still  remained  open  for  sealing  ships  of  all  nations,  until  a  small  colony  from  Buenos  Ayres 

.was  planted  therp,  under  the  direction  of  one  Vernet,  who  called  himself  g'ovenwr.    This  maa 


Oct.]  NEW  ISLAND— STRAIT  OF  MAGELLAN.  155 

This  place  is  only  fit  for  small  vessels,  and  requires  no  other  direc- 
tions for  entering  the  harbour  than  to  keep  clear  of  the  kelp.  There 
is  a  small  round  island  lying  off  the  mouth  of  the  cove,  which  may 
be  passed,  on  either  side,  within  a  hundred  yards,  with  safety.  For 
further  information,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  aifecting  and  instructive 
narrative  of  Captain  Charles  Barnard,  of  New-York,  which  work  . 
contains  the  only  correct  chart  of  these  islands  that  has  ever  been 
published ;  it  being  the  result  of  his  own  actual  surveys,  made  with 
much  care,  labour,  and  accuracy.  In  my  first  voyage,  the  reader  will 
recollect,  I  made  an  allusion  to  this  gentleman's  sufferings  from  the 
treachery  of  a  shipwrecked  crew,  who  left  him  to  perish  on  a  desolate 
island ;  I  now  mention  him  again,  in  order  to  impress  on  the  minds  of 
all  who  condescend  to  peruse  these  pages  a  due  sense  of  the  worth 
of  this  meritorious  and  enterprising  American  navigator,  w^ho  has  done 
much  for  his  country,  by  promoting  its  nautical  science  and  commercial 
prosperity.  May  he  yet  be  rewarded  by  the  munificence  of  those  whose 
interests  he  has  been  instrumental  in  advancing. 

Immediately  on  our  arrival  at  New  Island,  after  properly  mooring 
the  vessel,  &c.,  about  eight  A.  M.  all  hands  were  set  to  work  in  gather- 
ing the  eggs  of  aquatic  birds  from  the  same  rookery  mentioned  in  the 
former  voyage,  on  the  w-est  side  of  the  island.  The  result  of  our 
labours  in  this  particular  pursuit  w^as  twenty-five  barrels  of  fresh  eggs, 
^vhich  we  carefully  salted  down.  During  the  period  of  ten  days 
which  we  spent  here,  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  fat  geese  and  teal 
were  shot ;  and  several  fur-seals  v/ere  taken.  We  also  repaired  the 
sails,  stowed  the  hold  anew,  and  took  in  a  fresh  supply  of  water. 

October  16///. — On  Saturday,  at  4  P.  M.,  the  schooner  Yankee,  Cap- 
tain Thayer,  arrived  from  New- York ;  as  fine  a  vessel  of  her  class,  and 
as  well  fitted  out,  as  any  that  ever  passed  Sandy  Hook  lighthouse  on 
a  sealing  expedition.  On  the  following  day,  the  Tartar  left  the  Falk- 
land Islands,  and  we  shaped  our  course  for  the  Strait  of  Magellaii, 
with  the  wind  from  south-south-west,  attended  wuth  snow-squalls. 
Indeed,  we  had  experienced  more  or  less  snow  every  day  while  lying 
at  New  Island. 

October  22d. — It  was  on  Sunday,  the  17th,  at  2  P.  ^L,  that  we  left 
New  Island,  and  the  wind  continued  from  south-south-west  to  west- 
north-west,  generally  accompanied  with  snow  and  hail,  until  Friday, 
the  22d;  on  which  day,  at  7  P.  JNI.,  we  saw  Queen  Catharine's 
Foreland,  bearing  west-by-north,  distant  seven  leagues.  On  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  at  eight  A.  M.,  we  w^ere  within  the  eastern  entrance 
of  the  Strait  of  Magellan,  and  the  point  just  mentioiied  was  two  leagues 
behind  us,  bearing  east-by-south.     Fair  weather. 

soon  began  to  give  himself  airs,  and  insult  the  captains  of  sealing  vessels  from  the  United  States, 
pjrbiddins  them  to  pursue  the  business  among  those  islands.  In  1831  he  even  presumed  to  capture 
several  of  them,  one  of  which,  belonging  to  Stonington.Ct.,  was  taken  under  circumstances  which 
rendered  the  act  substantially  piratical.  On  receiving  intelligence  of  this  unwarranted  aggression, 
the  President  of  the  United  States  despatched  the  national  corvette  Lexington,  Captain  Duncan,  to 
protect  our  scaling  ships  in  those  seas,  and  to  chastise  every  piratical  spoliation  that  might  have 
been  committed.  Captain  Duncan  arrived  at  the  Falkland  Islands  on  the  2Sth  of  December,  and 
in  a  summary  manner  dcstroved  the  establishment  of  Vernet,  and  took  away  the  American  property 
found  in  his  possession  ;  at  tlic  same  time  making  a  prisoner  of  "  his  little  excellency."  On  the 
arrival  of  this  news  at  KuenosAvres,  an  extrsordinary  excitement  prevailed  ;  and  that  government, 
at  one  time,  seriouslv  contemplated  making  reprisals  on  American  citizens  and  their  property. 
This  affair  is  now  under  a  train  of  adjustmen'  and  the  result,  of  course,  not  yet  kn  )wn. 


]56  PENINSUL.\  OF  THREE  MOUNTAINS.  [1824. 

October  2-ith. — We  continued  plying  to  the  westward,  and  on  Sat- 
urday, the  23d,  at  midnight,  passed  the  Narrows.  On  the  following 
morning,  at  1  A.  M.,  we  came  to  an  anchor  on  the  east  side  of  Quarter- 
piasters  Island,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  muddy  bottom.  At  four 
A.  ^I.  we  again  got  under  way,  with  the  wind  from  west-north-west, 
blowing  a  single-reef  breeze. 

.  October  2Gth. — On  Tuesday,  the  twenty-sixth,  at  three,  A.  M.,  we 
anchored  in  Port  Famine,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  muddy  bottom.  At 
six,  A.  JVI.,  sent  all  hands  on  shore  to  cut  wood  and  collect  wild  celery. 
Many  other  plants  were  also  procured,  which  furnished  a  fine  mess  of 
greens  for  officers  and  crew.  AVe  lay  here  three  days,  during  which 
time  I  had  frequent  interviews  with  the  natives,  who  appeared  as  in- 
offensive and  as  wretched  as  they  are  represented  in  my  former  voyage. 
On  "Wednesday  and  Thursday  we  were  visited  by  heavy  falls  of  rain. 

October  Slst. — We  got  under  way  on  Friday,  the  twenty-ninth,  with 
the  wind  from  west-south-west,  and  the  weather  fair.  After  leaving 
Port  Famine  and  passing  Cape  Fro  ward,  we  assiduously  plied  to  the 
westward,  night  and  day,  until  Sunday,  the  thirty-first,  when,  at  four, 
A.  M.,  we  passed  Cape  Pillar,  the  southern  boundary  of  the  west  en- 
trance to  Magellan's  Strait,  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  south-west.  At 
eight,  A.  M.,  the  cape  bore  east-south-east,  distant  seven  leagues. 

November  8th, — On  ^londay,  the  first  of  November,  at  nine,  P.  M., 
the  wind  veered  round  to  the  north-west,  blowing  a  strong  breeze,  with 
heavy  falls  of  rain,  and  continued  from  north-north-west  to  west,  until 
the  ^londay  following,  November  8th ;  when,  at  six,  A.  M.,  we  saw 
Cape  Three  Mountains,  bearing  east-north-east,  distant  four  leagues  ; 
W'ind  from  west-by-south,  and  fair  weather.  The  shore  of  the  Penin- 
sula of  Tres  Montes,  from  the  cape  to  Point  Taitaohaohuon,  runs  in 
the  direction  of  north-by-west  half-west. 

It  will  be  recollected,  that  in  the  preceding  voyage  I  examined  the 
eastern  coast  of  Patagonia,  from  Cape  Corrientes  to  Cape  Virgin,  and 
furnished  sailing  directions  from  thence  to  Cape  Horn ;  also  for 
doubling  that  cape,  and  steering  to  the  western  entrance  of  Magellan's 
Strait.  From  thence  I  inspected  the  western  coast  of  South  America 
as  far  north  as  Point  Taitaohaohuon,  which  is  the  north-western  point 
of  the  peninsula  of  Tres  Montes.  From  the  last-mentioned  point  the 
shore  of  this  peninsula  turns  suddenly  to  the  eastward,  opening  to  view 
an  extensive  group  of  small  islands,  lying  near  the  north-west  extrem- 
ity of  the  peninsula  of  Three  Mountains.  Hair-seals  in  great  numbers 
resort  to  these  islands  for  the  usual  purposes  of  bringing  forth  their 
young,  shedding'  Mieir  coats,  &c.,  as  described  in  my  former  voyage. 
Here,  however,  they  are  very  wild,  and  not  easily  taken,  except  in  the 
"  pupping  season ;"  at  which  time  the  hair-lions  (as  the  males  are 
called)  will  readily  sacrifice  their  lives  in  defence  of  their  "conjugal 
partners  and  helpless  offspring." 

AVhen  attacked  by  the  crew  of  a  sealing  vessel,  the  lions  will  not 
allow  the  females  to  abandon  their  young,  even  to  preserve  their  own 
lives.  Under  such  circumstances  I  have  frequently  seen  the  female 
attempt  to  make  her  escape ;  sometimes  with  a  pup  in  her  mouth,  as  a 
cat  carries  off  her  kitten.     But  the  male,  which  is  twice  the  size  of  the 


Nov.]  PENINSULA  OF  THREE  MOUNTAINS.  157 

female,  would  instantly  seize  the  retreating  mother  by  the  back,  and  by 
the  muscular  force  of  his  powerful  jaws,  throw  her  from  four  to  ten 
feet  on  the  upland.  Here  she  would  lie  down  in  despair,  take  her 
suckling  to  her  breast,  and  "  with  eyes  raining  tears,"  meekly  await 
the  inevitable  death-blow.  Even  in  the  agonies  of  death,  their  con- 
vulsive efforts  are  solely  directed  to  the  protection  of  their  young. 

"  Maternal  love !  how  wonderful  the  tie  '. 

What  power  can  sever — what  destroy  the  cord? 
'Tig  fire  divine— 'tis  kindled  from  on  high, 
And  emanates  from  nature's  sovereign  Lord." 


CHAPTER  11. 


Peninsula  de  Tres  Montes,  and  the  adjacent  Islands — Natives  of  the  Coast — Bene- 
ficial Effects  of  foreign  Missionaries,  promoting  the  Interests  of  Commerce — A 
new  Field  for  Missionary  Labours — Archipelago  of  Chonos — Island  of  Chiloe — 
Natural  Productions — ToAvn  of  St.  Carlos — Religion,  Character,  and  Manners 
of  the  Inhabitants — Dress  of  the  Females — Employments,  Accomplishments, 
and  Amusements — Equestrian  Exercises — Mode  of  Mounting  their  Horses — 
Ponchos  and  Hammocks — The  adjacent  Country — Directions  fur  Entering  the 
Port. 

The  group  of  small  islands  which  lie  near  the  north-western  ex- 
tremity of  the  peninsula  of  Three  Mountains  aflbrds  many  fine  harbours 
(as  does  also  the  peninsula  itself),  which  ships  of  any  size  may  ap- 
proach with  safety  by  daylight,  if  the  weather  be  tolerably  clear. 
^Vood  and  water  may  be  had  here  with  very  liitle  labour.  Sea-otters 
frequent  the  shores  of  these  islands,  as  they  do  the  whole  coast  from 
hence  to  Cape  Horn ;  and  right  whales,  during  the  calving  season,  are 
found  in  all  the  principal  bays  in  great  abundance. 

The  navigator  among  these  islands  need  not  be  apprehensive  of  any 
hidden  dangers,  as  every  thing  shows  itself  in  the  daytime  ;  neither 
need  he  have  any  fears  as  regards  the  natives  of  tliis  coast ;  as  I  have 
had  communications  with  thousands  of  them,  and  can  vouch  for  their 
being  a  harmless,  inoffensive  race.  They  are  inquisitive,  tractable, 
and  would  readily  receive  instruction.  Could  they  be  blessed  with  the 
same  advantages  from  the  labours  of  missionaries  which  the  natives 
of  the  Sandwich  Islands  have  enjoyed,  they  w^ould  soon  become 
equally  civilized,  intelligent,  and  moral.  They  are  fit  subjects  for 
such  instruction.  ^, 

In  this  place  I  beg  leave  to  detain  the  reader  by  another  short  di- 
gression, to  show  that  the  results  of  missionary  labours  abroad  have 
been  misrepresented,  misunderstood,  and  much  underrated.  Among 
the  native  islanders  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  the  good  they  have  done  is  in- 
calculable. I  consider  most,  if  not  all,  of  the  persons  who  have  visited 
these  islands  in  the  character  of  religious  missionaries,  as  the  bene- 
factors, not  of  the  natives  merely,  but  of  the  human  race.  I  shall  not 
allude  to  what  spiritual  benefits  they  may  have  conferred  on  those 
whom  theyhave  been  instrumental  in  turning  from  paganism  toCliris- 


158  BENEFITS  OF  MISSIONARY  LABOURS.  [1824. 

tianity,  but  I  rest  their  defence  on  the  good  they  have  done  to  the  cause 
of  civihzation,  science,  and  commerce.  They  have  opened  new  chan- 
nels for  lucrative  trade,  ^vhich  were  formerly  closed  by  the  ferocity  of 
cannibals.  They  have  extended  a  knowledge  of  literature  and  the 
useful  arts  to  countries  where  they  were  never  before  known,  and  may 
be  said  to  have  created  new  countries  of  civilized  men. 

If  commerce  be  a  blessing  to  the  world — and  who,  at  this  day,  is 
bold  enough  to  deny  it  ? — then  the  missionaries  to  the  Pacific  islands 
have  done  much  to  promote  its  interests,  and  have  thereby  added  much 
to  the  sum  of  human  prosperity  and  happiness. 

Let  us  then  do  justice  to  the  missionaries,  and  bid  them  God-speed. 
If  they  have  merely  caused  two  blades  of  grass  to  grow  where  but 
one  grew  before,  they  deserve  the  approbation  of  the  world.  They 
cannot  act  from  sellisli  motives  when  they  voluntarily  submit  to  so 
many  privations,  sufferings,  dangers,  even  death  itself,  to  benefit  others. 
They  leave  the  comforts  of  home,  the  associations  of  their  early  years, 
ivives  and  children,  country,  lucrative  situations,  and  expose  them- 
selves to  all  the  dangers  of  the  sea,  to  the  fatigues  of  a  long  voyage — 
to  war,  pestilence,  and  famine.  And  all  for  what  ?  Not  to  acquire 
worldly  riches  for  themselves  or  their  friends  ;  but  to  impart  what  they 
conceive  to  be  spiritual  riches  to  strangers  and  savages.  To  cause 
them  to  pursue  the  path  which  leads  to  happiness,  and  to  teach  them 
that  all  mankind  are  their  brethren,  and  that  they  must  no  more  mas- 
sacre the  white  men  who  visit  their  islands,  but  treat  them  with  hospi- 
tality and  kindness. 

This  the  missionaries  have  done — this  they  continue  to  do — and 
every  ship-master  should  say,  God  prosper  their  labours,  unless  indeed 
lie  prefer  to  obtain  refreshments  for  a  starving  crew  by  force  of  arms. 
But  all  ships  have  not  sufficient  arms  or  men  to  force  a  landing  against 
thousands  of  ferocious  savages  wdth  poisoned  weapons.  There  have 
been  instances  where  the  ship's  company,  officers  and  all,  have  been 
too  much  weakened  and  emaciated  by  famine  and  scurvy  to  maintain 
a  contest  with  savages.  8uch  have  either  perished  with  hunger,  or 
became  themselves  the  food  of  cannibals. 

Such  instances  certainly  have  been,  and  these  islands  are  still  in- 
habited by  the  descendants  of  the  same  people.  What  force  of  arms 
could  not  effect,  the  gentle  manners  and  mild  persuasions  of  pious 
missionaries  have  accomplished.  No  sooner  does  a  ship  stop  there 
noiOf  than  the  inhabitants  vie  with  each  other  in  acts  of  kindness  and 
hospitality.  The  best  their  country  affords  is  offered,  and  freely 
offered,  to  refresh  the  wearied  and  weather-beaten  mariners,  whom 
they  meet  on  the  beach ;  and,  armed  with  nothing  but  smiles  of  wel- 
come, inquire  their  wants.  Here  the  stranger  can  eat  and  drink,  and 
.sleep  in  perfect  security,  under  perhaps  the  same  roof  beneath  which 
human  flesh  was  once  an  article  of  food.  AVho  have  eftected  this 
wonderful  change  in  tlie  short  period  of  one  generation  ?  I  answer, 
this  is  the  work  of  missionaries.     God  bless  them ! 

There  is  still  an  extensive  field  open  for  such  useful  labours,  where 
results  equally  beneficial,  in  many  respects,  could  not  fail  of  being  pro- 
duced.    "  The  harvest  truly  is  plenty,  but  the  labourers  are  few." 


Nov.]  PENINSUL-\  DE  TRES  MONTES.  159 

The  western  coast  of  South  America,  from  Magellan's  Strait  to  Port 
Valdivia,  deserves  the  attention  of  missionary  societies.  Here  the 
3iatives  are  living  in  the  most  wretched  condition  that  can  well  be  con- 
ceived, in  one  of  the  finest  countries  in  the  world.  The  arts  of  civili- 
zation, particularly  that  of  agriculture,  with  a  true  knowledge  of  practi- 
cal religion,  would  make  them  a  happy  and  a  grateful  people ;  and  at 
the  same  time  open  a  lucrative  trade  that  would  prove  beneficial  to  all 
parties.  This  country  is  claimed  by  no  civilized  nation,  the  Spaniards 
never  having  extended  their  conquests  south  of  the  archipelago  of 
Chonos,  or  Chiloe. 

^  Let  us  now  return  to  the  northern  coast  of  the  peninsula  de  Tres 
Montes,  trom  which  we  shall  shortly  proceed  to  the  archipelago  just 
named.  About  twenty  miles  to  the  north-east  of  Taitaohaohuon  Point, 
keeping  the  mainland  on  board,  there  is  a  fine  bay,  with  a  spacious 
entrance  that  cannot  be  missed,  and  a  harbour  that  afibrds  good 
anchorage.  It  is  sheltered  at  the  entrance  by  several  small  islands, 
■which  completely  landlock  the  port,  one  island  jutting  past  another. 
In  entering  this  harbour,  there  is  no  danger  more  than  a  cable's  length 
from  shore,  the  usual  depth  of  water  being  twenty  fathoms  between 
the  islands.  When  once  inside,  a  ship  may  choose  her  anchorage  in 
from  twenty  to  five  fathoms.  We  anchored  on  the  south-west  side  of 
the  port,  in  four  fathoms,  mud  and  clay  bottom. 

The  surrounding  land  is  much  elevated,  and  the  woods  near  the 
water-side  are  of  an  immense  growth,  and  almost  impenetrable.  The 
timber  is  oak,  birch,  beech,  redwood,  and  a  kind  of  bastard  cedar, 
which  grows  perfectly  straight  to  a  great  height,  and  is  very  tough. 
I  observed  another  species  of  wood,  resembling  fustic,  but  tried  no 
experiments  to  determine  its  qualities  as  a  die-wood.  The  groves  and 
forests  are  rendered  vocal  by  many  different  kinds  of  birds  of  variegated 
plumage.  On  the  plains  and  uplands  are  plenty  of  deer,  which  are 
very  tame,  and  may  be  had  for  the  shooting,  with  very  little  travelling. 
I  have  singled  out  an  individual  among  a  large  herd  of  these  animals, 
not  more  than  forty  yards  distant  from  me.  On  hearing  the  report  of 
the  gun,  and  seeing  their  companion  fall,  the  survivors  would  stand  in 
stupid  amazement,  watching  my  motions  as  I  reloaded  the  musket.  A 
second  shot  appeared  to  increase  their  astonishment,  but  excited  no 
alarm.  A  third,  fourth,  and  fifth  were  attended  with  similar  effects. 
But  when  they  heard  the  sixth  report,  and  beheld  half  a  dozen  of  the 
herd  lifeless  or  struggling  on  the  ground,  they  awoke  from  their  be- 
wildered dream,  and  plunged  into  the  forest. 

November  loth. — After  carefully  examining  the  cluster  of  islands 
near  the  peninsula  so  often  mentioned,  Mithowt  finding  any  fur-seals, 
ive  got  under  way  on  Monday,  the  fifteenth,  and  steered  to  the  north- 
ward. Between  this  peninsula  and  the  main,  to  which  it  is  joined  by 
the  little  isthmus  of  Ofqui,  is  a  narrow  bay  or  gulf,  of  which  the  isth- 
mus is  the  southern  boundary.  From  its  entrance  on  the  north,  the 
coast  of  Chonos  on  the  main  tends  more  easterly  to  the  river  Rabudos, 
forming  a  hollow  curve,  where  commences  the  Gulf  of  Chonos  and 
Guaytecas,  in  the  waters  of  whicli  are  scattered  those  islands  which 
have  given  it  the  appellation  of  tlic  archipelago  of  Chiloe  and  Chonos. 


ICO  ISLAND  OF  CHILOE,  [1824. 

We  first  passed  a  multitude  of  small  islands,  a  number  of  which  are 
inhabited  by  the  Indians  from  the  continent.  The  soil  a})pears  to  be 
richly  spread  over  these  islands,  which  produce  an  abundanc-e  of  vege- 
tables. It  is  said,  however,  that  in  the  year  1737,  at  the  lime  of  a  great 
earthquake  in  the  island  of  Chiloe,  tliese  were  so  thickly  covered  with 
ashes,  perhaps  from  a  volcanic  eruption,  as  to  destroy  almost  every 
species  of  vegetation  for  a  period  of  thirteen  years.  Another  account 
says,  that  in  the  year  just  mentioned,  an  enormous  globe  of  fire  burst 
on  the  Guaytecas  Islands,  and  reduced  all  ihe  vegetables  to  ashes. 

Here  we  may  be  said  to  re-enter  the  southern  borders  of  civilization 
on  the  Pacific  coast,  as  we  left  them  at  Rio  Negro  on  the  Atlantic  coast ; 
for  all  the  country  south  of  these  two  points  to  Cape  Horn,  islands  in- 
cluded, is  inhabited  by  wandering  tribes  of  the  human  race,  nearly 
naked,  and  in  the  lowest  possible  state  of  ignorance,  degradation,  and 
wretchedness.  In  all  this  extensive  region  of  a  most  delightful  country 
(with  the  exception  of  Terra  del  Fuego),  comprising  fifteen  degrees  of 
latitude,  and  seven  or  eiglit  of  longitude,  there  is  not  a  city,  a  town,  or 
even  a  village  of  civilized  beings,  nor  a  single  cultivated  field  or 
garden ! 

The  natives  of  the  archipelago  of  Chonos,  on  the  contrar}'',  culti- 
vate a  great  part  of  these  islands,  on  which  they  raise  wheat,  oats, 
beans,  and  potatoes  ;  besides  many  kinds  of  fruit,  such  as  apples,  pears, 
peaches,  plums,  cherries,  and  a  variety  of  herbs.  They  also  raise 
black-cattle,  horses,  sheep,  goats,  hogs,  and  poultry,  in  abundance. 
The  most  of  these  islands  rise  perpendicularly  out  of  the  water,  have 
deep  channels  between  them,  and  afford  many  good  anchoring  places, 
where  ships  may  lie  in  perfect  safety.  One  thing,  however,  they  did 
pot  afford  at  this  time,  and  that  was  the  grand  object  of  our  search — 
fur-seal.  We  therefore  made  the  best  of  our  way  to  the  island  of 
Chiloe. 

November  19th. — We  arrived  at  the  south  end  of  tins  celebrated 
island  on  Wednesday,  the  17th,  and  commenced  searching  the  small 
islands  near  it  for  fur-seals,  but  without  success.  We  therefore  entered 
the  gulf  between  the  island  and  the  continent,  on  Friday,  the  19th  ;  and 
after  examining  tlie  small  islands  as  v:e  passed,  with  no  better  success, 
we  finally  cast  anchor  in  the  port  of  St.  Carlos,  on  the  north-west  part 
of  the  island. 

November  23J. — It  was  on  the  morning  of  Tuesday,  the  23d,  at 
eleven,  A.  M.,  that  we  came  to  anchor  in  the  harbour  of  San  Carlos 
de  Chacao,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  muddy  bottom,  ^vith  the  flag-staff 
on  Fort  Quintanilla,  bearing  east-north-east,  distant  one  and  a  half 
miles. 

The  island  of  Chiloe,  as  the  reader  is  already  aware,  is  the  princi- 
pal one  of  a  large  group  called  the  archipelago  of  Chiloe,*  and  by 
some  the  archipelago  of  Chonos ;  the  latter  being  the  name  of  that 
pari  of  the  continent  near  the  western  coast  of  which  these  islands  are 
situated.     They  extend  along  the  coast  of  CJionos,  which  here  curves 

*  The  original  settlers,  having  emigrated  fi-orn  Chili,  as  is  manifest  from  their  manners  and  lan- 
guage, gave  it  the  name  of  Chil-hue  (hence  Chiloe);  i.  e.  a  district  of  ChiU..— Edinburgh  Encys. 


Nov.]  ISLAND  OF  CHILOE.  161 

inland,  towards  the  Andean  chain  of  mountains,  between  the  parallels 
of  latitude  41°  40'  and  45^  30'  S.,  a  distance  of  about  eighty-five 
leagues.  Though  I  have  never  counted  these  islands,  I  have  no  doubt 
that  the  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia  is  correct  in  estimating  their  number 
at  eighty-two,  of  which  thirty-two  are  inhabited. 

Isla  Grande,  or  Chiloe,  is  the  principal  and  largest  of  the  group, 
perhaps  much  larger  than  all  the  rest  put  together.  It  is  also  the  most 
northerly,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  small  ones  in  Purraraque  Bay. 
It  is  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  in  length  north  and  south,  and 
varies  from  fifteen  to  forty  in  breadth ;  indented  on  each  side  with 
bays  and  inlets,  which  in  some  places  nearly  cut  h  in  two.  It  abounds 
with  forests  of  excellent  timber,  especially  red  cedar,  which  grows 
here  to  great  perfection.  These  forests  are  inhabited  by  a  great  variety 
of  beautiful  birds  and  insects,  and  here  also  are  found  several  species 
of  serpents,  otters,  deer,  and  black  foxes. 

The  principal  productions  of  this  island  are  timber,  wheat,  oats, 
corn,  beans,  pease,  apples,  pears,  peaches,  plums,  quinces,  and  cher- 
ries. The  crops  of  wheat,  however,  are  seldom  great,  owing  probably 
to  the  humidity  of  the  soil.  Barley  and  beans  are  abundant,  and 
wine  is  plenty.  Cattle  and  sheep  were  first  introduced  here  from 
Spain,  and  have  so  multiplied,  as  to  furnish  a  great  abundance  of  good 
meat.  The  hams  of  Chiloe  are  probably  the  best  in  the  world,  having 
a  peculiar  delicious  flavour,  which  is  attributed  to  the  hogs'  feeding 
principally  upon  shellfish,  with  which  the  shores  abound.  Among  the 
articles  raised  for  exportation  are  black-cattle,  sheep,  goats,  horses, 
hogs,  and  poultry.  Of  the  vegetable  productions,  they  have  excellent 
crops  of  potatoes,  known  by  the  term  papas. 

The  soil  is  good,  but  rather  too  moist ;  and  the  climate  is  temperate 
for  that  latitude  ;  being  healthy,  but  often  cold  and  rainy.  The  coun- 
try is  subject  to  earthquakes,  and  a  very  dreadful  one  took  place  in 
the  year  1737 ;  when  the  Guaytecas,  a  group  of  islands  to  the  south, 
were  covered  with  ashes.  Chiloe  abounds  with  timber  of  the  best 
quality,  which  is  manufactured  into  boards,  planks,  <fcc. ;  much  of  which 
is  exported.  The  principal  trees  are  oak,  red  cedar,  walnut,  hazel, 
myrtle,  cypress,  and  laurel.  There  is  also  an  abundance  of  ratans, 
which  furnish  the  Indians  with  cordage,  and  thatch  for  the  roofs  of 
their  dwellinos.  The  face  of  the  country  in  the  interior  is  mountain- 
ous.  The  waters  around  the  shores  of  this  island  are  teeming  with 
scale-fish  of  considerable  variety  and  excellent  quality  ;  particularly 
the  cod,  which  appears  to  be  of  the  same  species  with  those  on  our 
coast.     Shellfish  are  very  plentiful  and  of  many  different  kinds. 

The  whole  population  of  this  island  is  estimated  at  about  twenty- 
five  thousand ;  but  few  of  whom  reside  in  the  interior.  There  are 
three  towns  and  several  villages,  the  most  of  which  are  situated  on  the 
northern  and  eastern  part  of  the  island.  The  towns  are  St.  Carlos, 
Chacao,  and  Castro.  The  latter  is  situated  on  the  east  side,  and  has 
a  good  harbour ;  which  is  little  frequented,  however,  on  account  of  the 
difficulty  of  its  navigation.  Chacao  is  on  the  north-east  part  of  the 
island,  and  for  many  years  previous  to  the  revolution  was  considered 
the  capital.     But  of  late  it  has  fallen  into  decay,  while  St.  Carlos  has 

L 


102  ISLAND  OF  CHILOE.  [1824. 

risen  into  notice  and  importance,  and  is  now  considered  the  capital  of 
the  island.  There  are  three  or  four  small  ports  or  villages  on  the 
west  side,  but  they  are  seldom  entered  except  by  fishing  craft.  St. 
Carlos  is  in  latitude  41°  51'  S.,  long.  73^  54'  W.,  and  is  situated  on  the 
north-west  part  of  the  island. 

.  This  town  is  very  well  built,  the  houses  generally  being  constructed 
of  a  kind  of  freestone,  with  terraces  or  piazzas  in  front,  and  one 
story  high,  which  is  the  usual  practice  on  this  coast,  as  a  necessary 
precaution  against  the  effects  of  earthquakes  and  volcanic  agitations.  But 
few  of  them,  however,  are  in  the  old  Spanish  style,  with  flat  roofs. 
The  streets  are  laid  out  in  a  very  regular  manner,  wide  and  straight,  but 
destitute  of  pavement.  Among  the  public  buildings  are  two  elegant 
churches,  two  monasteries,  one  college  of  Jesuits,  and  several  nunneries. 

Although  a  very  small  portion  of  the  inhabitants  are  Europeans,  the 
most  of  them  are  truly  Spanish,  in  features,  character,  and  language. 
Indeed,  so  much  intermarrying  has  heretofore  taken  place  between  the 
Spaniards  and  the  aborigines,  that  there  are  very  few  now  born  on  the 
island  who  cannot  boast  of  Castilian  blood,  in  a  greater  or  less  degree. 
The  features  of  the  females  are  more  European  and  better  formed 
than  those  of  the  ladies  in  the  northern  part  of  Chili. 

The  religion  in  Chiloe  is  of  course  Roman  Catholic  ;  and  all  the 
islands  in  the  archipelago  are  under  the  same  ecclesiastical  govern- 
ment. The  native  Indians  who  inhabit  these  islands  appear  to  be 
well  contented,  and  perfectly  submissive  to  all  the  requirements  of  the 
church ;  and  v/hile  eating  their  salted  seal's  flesh,  are  no  doubt  as 
happy  as  their  more  luxurious  rulers.  Chiloe  is  the  see  of  a  bishop, 
who  resides  at  St.  Carlos.  While  these  islands  were  in  possession 
of  old  Spain,  as  was  the  case  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  a  considerable 
military  force  was  necessary  to  maintain  their  sovereignty,  and  the 
principal  part  of  this  force  was  stationed  at  St.  Carlos.  The  poor 
Indians  on  the  main  frequently  felt  the  weight  of  their  leaden  argu- 
ments ;  for  it  was  then  fashionable  to  convert  these  persecuted  people 
by  force  of  arms.  Most  of  the  new  proselytes  of  course  became 
slaves  to  the  conquerors,  thus  benefiting  both  church  and  state  at  the 
same  time. 

The  natives  on  the  continent  opposite  Chiloe  have  been  harassed, 
oppressed,  and  hunted  with  nearly  as  much  ruthless  ferocity  as  were 
the  aborigines  farther  north.  A  long  series  of  such  "  tender  mercies" 
from  a  people  professing  to  be  disciples  of  the  Prince  of  peace  has 
jnuch  reduced  their  numbers,  and  driven  the  remnant  back  from  the 
coast,  to  enjoy  their  savage  independence  among  the  mountains  and 
forests  on  the  west  of  Patagonia.  No  wonder  if  such  wanton  and 
mimerited  injuries  have  rendered  many  of  them  desperate,  and  made 
them  ten  times  more  savage  than  they  would  otherwise  have  been. 
They  cot#d  easily  be  tamed  by  kindness  ;  but  they  will  suffer  much, 
sooner  than  submit  to  force.  They  are  mostly  descended  from 
the  Araucanians,  a  people  that  inhabit  the  rich  and  fertile  districts 
which  lie  between  the  rivers  Biobio  and  Valdivia,  in  the  southern 
part  of  Chili.  The  Spaniards  have  called  it  Araucanian  Flanders,  or 
^»the  invinoihU  state ;  and  some  of  the  Spanish  poets  have  had  the  mag- 


i^ov.]  CHARACTER,  MANNERS,  ETC.  163 

nanimity  to  celebrate  in  verse  the  exploits  of  a  people  who  shed  so 
much  Spanish  blood  in  maintaining  their  independence. 

I  have  been  struck  with  honor,  even  here  in  civilized  Chiloe,  among 
professed  Christians,  to  hear  a  Spanish  priest  denounce  some  native 
Indians  just  brought  in  from  the  mountains,  as  brutes  ;  nay,  as  objects 
of  Divine  wrath  doomed  to  perdition.  When  this  same  arrogant 
Spanish  ecclesiastic,  and  others  like  him,  had  wantonly  assailed,  robbed, 
and  despoiled  the  fair  possessions  of  these  unfortunate  Indians ;  had 
xleprived  them  of  all  they  held  dear,  and  driven  them  to  the  Andean 
deserts  for  safety ! 

The  inhabitants  of  Chiloe,  generally,  are  a  brave,  humane,  liberal 
people ;  similar,  in  most  respects,  to  those  of  Yaldivia  and  Concep- 
tion; except  that  the  ladies  do  not  dress  quite  so  much  in  the  Euro- 
pean style.  Their  demeanour  and  manners,  however,  are  so  delicate 
and  pleasing,  that  a  man  must  possess  more  stoicism  than  I  can  boast 
of  who  does  not,  after  a  short  acquaintance,  feel  for  them  a  strong 
partiality.  They  are  remarkable  for  quickness  of  apprehension,  wit, 
and  vivacity.  They  are  also  sociable,  lively,  and  polite  ;  which,  com- 
bined with  an  excellent  taste,  seem  to  be  hereditary  qualities  in  these 
interesting  descendants  of  two  distinct  and  dissimilar  species  of  the 
human  race.  They  appear  to  be  particularly  well-affected  towards 
the  Americans  of  the  IJnited  States,  and  also  to  Englishmen ;  and  for 
my  own  part,  I  could  never  think  it  improper  to  reciprocate  such  favoiu:- 
able  sentiments. 

In  the  concluding  sentence  of  the  preceding  paragraph  is  seen  and 
felt  the  want  of  a  generic  name  for  our  own  country,  in  distinctix)n 
from  all  other  nations  in  the  western  hemisphere.  We  are  all  Amer- 
icans^ from  the  Northern  Frozen  Ocean  to  Cape  Horn ;  and  the  citizens 
of  the  United  States  alone  are  without  a  specific  national  appellation. 
The  late  learned  and  scientific  Dr.  Mitchill,  while  he  held  a  seat  in 
the  national  legislature,  proposed  a  very  good  one,  "  Fredonia ;"  but  as 
a  revolution  in  South  America  was  at  that  time  never  dreamed  of,  his 
proposition  was  rejected.  Since  that  period  so  many  new  nations 
have  sprung  into  existence  on  the  southern  continent,  each  of  which 
has  been  appropriately  christened  by  its  republican  sponsors,  that  it 
has  become  quite  inconvenient  to  navigators  and  travellers  from  the 
United  States,  in  reporting  themselves  to  our  neighbours  of  the  south. 

In  the  course  of  a  desultory  conversation,  I  once  observed  to  a  lady 
of  Valparaiso,  that  the  Americans  (meaning  citizens  of  the  United 
States)  had  felt  and  .expressed  a  lively  interest  in  the  late  successful 
struggle  of  Chili  for  liberty  and  independence.  "  O  yes,  sir,"  she 
replied  whh  vivacity  ;  "  we  certainly  felt  anxious  for  the  result."  Here 
I  was  fishing  for  a  polite  compliment  for  our  national  sympathy,  and 
was  not  understood,  because  my  country  has  no  other  name  than  that 
which  is  claimed  with  an  equal  right  by  the  Canadians,  the  Mexicans, 
Brazilians,  and  each  repubhc  of  South  America.  But  this  is  another 
digression. 

Taking  it  for  granted  that  the  fair  reader  of  my  own  country  (should 
any  condescend  to  peruse  the  rough  journal  of  a  seaman)  would 
like  to  know  something  respecting  the  dress  of  these  black-eyed  ladies 

L2 


164  '       DRESS  AND  EMPLOYMENTS.  [1824. 

of  Chiloe,  I  shall  drop  a  few  words  on  that  subject.  The  first  thing 
that  struck  me  was  their  liberal  use  of  ornaments  ;  such  as  gold  hair- 
combs,  splendid  ear-jewels,  bracelets  on  the  arms,  chains  around  the 
wrists,  rich  chains  of  gold  around  the  neck  and  waist,  with  shoe- 
buckles  of  the  same  valuable  material.  Many  of  these  ornaments  are 
inlaid  with  gems  and  precious  stones.  Their  usual  headdress  is  simply 
their  glossy  black  hair,  tastefully  done  up  with  four  or  live  gold  combs, 
and  gracefully  disposed,  which  gives  them  a  very  charming  appearance. 
Some  of  them  reminded  me  of  Walter  Scott's  description  of  Rebecca, 
in  the  romance  of  Ivanhoe. 

AVith  respect  to  the  dress  itself,  however,  independent  of  ornaments,  I 
must  confess  that  one  of  their  fashions  struck  me  rather  oddly,  as  I  had 
never  met  with  any  thing  of  the  kind,  among  "  Jews  or  gentiles,  bond 
or  free."  I  allude  to  their  hoop-dresses,  which  I  was  subsequently 
permitted  to  examine.  They  are  worn  beneath  the  external  petticoat ; 
and  the  hoop,  which  is  nearly  three  feet  in  diameter,  is  worn  parallel  with 
the  hips,  and  is  kept  in  its  horizontal  position  in  the  following  manner. 
A  strip  of  linen  or  cotton  of  six  or  eight  inches  in  width,  according  to 
the  size  of  the  waist  of  the  wearer  and  the  diameter  of  the  hoop,  is 
sewed  all  around  the  latter  at  one  edge,  while  the  other  edge  is  drawn 
by  a  string,  and  tied  to  the  body  just  above  the  hips.  In  this  position 
(that  is,  when  the  string  is  drawn),  it  resembles  a  large  drum-head, 
with  a  circular  hole  cut  in  the  centre.  This  apparatus,  their  petticoats 
being  very  short,  gives  them  a  very  singular  appearance. 

The  employments  of  the  ladies  in  Chiloe  are  very  trifling ;  merely 
consisting  of  a  little  embroidery  and  lace-work.  Those  who  are 
married  of  course  pay  some  attention  to  the  superintendence  of  their 
household  affairs.  Those  of  the  higher  classes,  in  particular,  are 
very  indolent,  avoiding  every  exertion,  except  in  the  way  of  amuse- 
ment. They  smoke  tobacco  to  excess ;  ancl  the  practice  is  so  univer- 
sal here,  and  in  other  places  on  the  coast,  that  strangers  soon  cease  to 
consider  it  indelicate.  Indeed,  if  any  thing  can  consecrate  a  Spanish 
segar,  it  must  be  the  touch  of  a  beautiful  pair  of  ruby  lips.  I  hope 
my  fair  countrywomen,  however,  will  never  try  the  experiment. 

The  employments  of  the  men  are  neither  numerous  nor  laborious. 
They  pay  attention  to  the  cultivation  of  their  fields  and  gardens,  and 
transact  their  mercantile  business,  of  which  there  is  very  little  in  this 
place.  Some  of  them  are  employed  as  mariners  in  the  few  vessels 
that  belong  to  the  island.  They  build  several  small  vessels  here  every 
year,  which  gives  employment  to  many  of  the  labouring  class,  in  pre- 
paring cargoes,  sawing  boards  and  planks,  and  felling  timber.  Good 
mechanics  and  medical  men  arc  very  scarce,  and  very  much  wanted 
on  this  island. 

Riding  on  horseback  is  a  favourite  recreation  of  both  sexes ;  and  it 
is  an  accomplishment  in  which  both  excel.  The  men,  in  particular, 
are  the  most  expert  horsemen  that  I  have  ever  seen  in  any  part  of  the 
world.  Whether  mounted  on  a  wild  unbroken  horse,  or  on  a  well 
tutored  animal,  they  exhibit  a  grace,  skill,  and  dexterity  which  is  truly 
surprising  ;  and  such  is  their  tact  in  tlie  management  of  the  most  spir- 
ited or  vicious  steed,  that  they  very  seldom  get  unseated. 


Nov.]  EQUESTRIAN  EXERCISES.  165 

Like  the  Mamelukes,  they  accustom  theii'  horses  to  start  with  the 
quickness  of  the  hghtning's  flash,  and  to  stop  as  if  struck  by  the  boh. 
I  have  seen  them  ride  with  the  speed  of  a  race-horse,  until  within 
six  feet  of  a  house,  and  then  stop  as  suddenly  as  if  the  animal  had 
fallen  dead  on  the  spot ;  the  rider  still  retaining  his  seat  and  equilibrium. 
I  have  also  seen  the  same  feat  attempted  on  the  open  road,  where  the 
animal  could  not  have  anticipated  the  rider's  intention.  In  such  case, 
the  horse  would  throw  his  feet  forward,  ploughing  the  ground  with  the 
hinder  part  of  his  hoofs,  for  two  or  three  yards  ;  and  frequently  fall  on 
his  haunches,  in  the  sitting  posture  of  a  dog. 

The  ladies,  also,  are  very  fond  of  those  equestrian  exercises ;  and 
most  of  them  ride  extremely  well.  Those  of  the  higher  class  ride  in 
the  same  manner  as  do  our  North  x4.merican  ladies ;  but  their  mode 
of  getting  upon  the  saddle  would  scarcely  be  tolerated  by  the  latter. 
I  received  a  lesson  on  this  subject,  at  the  house  of  my  friend  General 
Quintanilla  (commander-in-chief  of  this  island  and  its  dependencies), 
where  several  ladies  were  assembled  for  the  purpose  of  amusing  them- 
selves with  an  equestrian  excursion.  I  had  not  then  met  with  an 
anecdote,  exactly  similar,  as  related  by  Captain  Delano,  or  I  should 
have  profited  by  his  experience.  AVhen  the  horses  were  brought  to  the 
door,  and  the  fair  equestrians  were  preparing  to  vault  on  their  respect- 
ive saddles,  I,  with  a  sailors  gallantry,  singled  out  one  of  the  prettiest 
and  most  sprightly  of  the  group,  to  whom  I  tendered  my  assistance.  The 
oifer  was  graciously  accepted,  with  a  smile  of  bewitching  sweetness. 

She  immediately  advanced  to  a  horse  that  was  held  by  a  servant, 
threw  her  arms  over  the  saddle,  leaning  her  swelling  chest  against  the 
animal's  side,  then  half  turning  her  pretty  face  towards  me,  she  bade  me 
help  her. 

"  Si,  seuora,"  I  replied,  in  as  gallant  a  manner  as  I  could  say, — "  Yes, 
madam,"  and  stood  waiting  for  further  orders.  She  still  retained  her 
singular  position,  and  again  exclaimed,  "  Ayudeme,  usted  amigo 
queridito." — "  Help  me,  my  dear  sir  !" 

The  awkwardness  of  my  situation  now  became  painful ;  for  I  could 
see  no  part  of  the  lady  which  my  northern  ideas  of  delicacy  would 
allow  me  to  touch.  Her  hands  were  beyond  my  reach,  and  a  husband, 
or  a  father,  in  my  situation,  might  not  have  been  embarrassed. 

A  gentleman  of  the  party,  perceiving  at  once  the  nature  of  my  em- 
barrassment, and  that  I  was  a  stranger  to  the  customs  of  the  country, 
immediately  stepped  forward  to  offer  the  lady  that  assistance  which 
she  was  expecting  from  me.  Stooping  behind  her,  he  seized  one  of 
those  delicate  little  ankles  in  each  hand ;  at  the  same  moment  she 
sprang,  like  a  Vestris,  in  the  air,  turning  a  half-pirouette,  as  she 
ascended ;  the  gentleman  dexterously  crossing  his  arms  to  accommo- 
date her  change  of  position.  In  this  manner,  and  in  much  less  time 
than  I  have  occupied  in  attempting  to  describe  it,  her  ladyship  was 
seated  on  the  saddle,  with  the  reins  in  her  hand,  and  ready  for  the 
starting  signal. 

The  chagrin  and  mortification  I  felt  from  being  deprived  of  so  pleas- 
ant an  office  through  ignorance  were  instantly  removed  by  a  consoling 
smile  from  the  sparkling  eyes  of  the  fair  equestrian,  accompanied  \\'ith 


166  EMPLOYMENTS  AND  AMUSEMENTS.  [1824^ 

the  words,  "Pasado  manana,  senor;"  intimating  that  the  privilege 
should  be  mine  on  some  other  occasion.  To  my  great  satisfaction, 
such  an  occasion  occurred  the  same  evening ;  and  she  had  the  polite- 
ness to  say  that  I  performed  the  oflice  with  the  dexterity  and  grace  of 
a  Spanish  cabalero. 

Some  of  the  females,  and  not  of  the  lowest  class  neither,  are  far 
from  being  over-scrupulous  as  to  their  mode  of  sitting  on  horseback ; 
but  as  often  ride  with  a  foot  on  each  side  of  the  animal  as  any  other 
"way. 

The  Chiloean  bridles  are  made  like  ours,  except  that  the  reins  are 
long  enough  to  serve  as  a  substitute  for  a  riding-wliip.  Their  saddles, 
however,  are  somewhat  different.  They  are  lined  with  a  coarse  skin, 
fitted  to  set  easy  on  the  horse's  back ;  their  first  attention  being 
directed  to  the  comfort  and  convenience  of  so  serviceable  and  noble 
an  animal.  For  the  comfort  of  the  rider,  these  saddles  are  covered 
with  sheepskins,  dressed  with  the  wool  on,  from  three  to  four  inches 
in  thickness,  painted  with  different  colours,  and  neatly  bound  on  the 
saddle.  They  have  a  handsome  appearance,  and  are  easy  to  both 
horse  and  rider. 

Their  stirrups  are  of  a  peculiar  fashion,  the  rest  for  the  foot  being 
long  enough  to  support  both  heel  and  toe  ;  say  from  eight  to  ten  inches 
in  length,  and  six  in  width.  The  fore-part  is  covered  with  nearly  a 
perfect  quadrasphere ;  so  that  it  bears  some  resemblance  to  an  iron  or 
brass  shoe,  with  a  high  instep,  and  the  quarters  taken  off.  They  have 
a  clumsy  appearance,  and  in  case  of  being  unseated  might  endanger 
the  rider's  safety  by  confining  the  foot.  The  ladies'  saddles  differ 
from  those  of  the  gentlemen  only  by  the  elevation  of  the  off-side  of 
the  tree. 

The  sedentary  amusements  of  the  Chiloeans  principally  consist  of 
music  and  card-playing ;  and  this  is  peculiarly  the  case  at  St.  Carlos* 
Their  favourite  instrument  is  the  Spanish  guitar,  on  which  almost 
every  female  performs  with  pleasing  effect,  accompanied  with  the 
voice — some  of  them  the  sweetest  I  ever  heard.  They  also  play  the 
harp,  spinnet,  harpsichord,  and  piano-forte.  The  gentlemen  play  the 
fiute  and  clarionet,  and  both  sexes  dance  with  exquisite  grace,  accom- 
panied with  a  due  proportion  of  Castilian  dignity.  Their  principal 
dances  are  minuets,  long  dance,  cotillions,  and  the  celebrated  fandango. 
The  latter  is  a  very  fascinating  dance,  performed  by  two  persons; 
commonly  by  a  lady  and  gentleman,  sometimes  by  two  ladies. 
i  Card-tables  are  introduced  at  all  their  parties,  at  which  the  gentle- 
men play  by  themselves,  while  the  ladies  amuse  them  with  songs,  ac- 
companied by  the  guitar  or  harp.  Such  gentlemen  as  do  not  fancy 
cards  have  the  privilege  of  joining  the  ladies — a  privilege  which  I 
never  forfeited  by  neglect. 

This  island  is  celebrated  for  manufacturing  the  best  ponchos  of  any-, 
part  of  Chili.  They  are  woven  very  thick,  of  a  fine  thread,  and  curi- 
ously wrought,  in  variegated  colours.  In  weaving  the  cloth,  they  use 
twelve  or  more  treadles  in  the  loom.  It  is  generally  about  six  feet 
square,  beautifully  fringed  around  the  edges,  and  has  a  slit  in  the 
centre,  just  large  enough  to  admit  a  man's  head.     The  edges  of  this 


Nov.]   .  ISLAND  OF  CHILOE.  167 

slit  are  also  bordered  with  beautiful  needlework.  They  are  M^orn  by 
the  gentlemen,  as  a  protection  from  the  weather  ;  and  are  so  thick  and 
fine,  that  they  tm-n  off  water  nearly  as  well  as  leather.  When  the 
wearer's  head  is  put  through  the  ornamented  sht  in  the  centre,  the- 
poncho  hangs  about  him  like  a  blanket,  and  is  the  most  convenient 
garment  to  ride  in,  that  could  be  invented ;  the  rider  having  his  legs- 
and  arms  at  liberty,  and  his  body  completely  defended  from  the  rain. 

The  ladies  have  a  liandsomely  striped  cloth,  manufactured  of  cotton^ 
very  much  like  the  poncho,  about  seven  feet  in  length,  and  three  iiv 
breadth.  This  is  suspended  like  a  seaman's  hammock,  about  two  feet 
and  a  half  from  the  floor,  in  which  the  ladies  amuse  themselves  by- 
swinging,  sometimes  in  a  lying  and  sometimes  in  a  sitting  posture,  as 
fancy  or  indolence  suggests. 

The  island  of  Chiloe  is  separated  from  the  main  or  continent,  by 
the  Gulf  of  Guaytecas,  which  is  more  than  twelve  leagues  in  width  at 
the  south  entrance ;  but  to  the  northward  the  passage  is  quite  narrow, 
being  in  some  places  not  more  than  one  league  across,  through  which 
the  tide  occasionally  runs  with  great  velocity  ;  at  spring  tides  from  six 
to  eight  miles  an  hour.  There  are  likewise  several  dangers  in  the 
passage,  which  are  concealed  by  the  ripple  of  a  strong  tide,  that  rises 
eighteen  feet  with  a  strong  westerly  wind.  In  passing  through  this 
gulf  or  strait,'vessels  should  keep  the  Chiloean  shore  best  on  board,  as 
the  sunken  rocks,  reefs,  Slc.  lie  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  passage. 

The  coast  on  the  main  is  indented  by  numerous  inlets,  forming  la- 
goons, rivers,  creeks,  bays,  and  harbours.  This  land  is  tolerably  well 
peopled,  from  the  forty-first  to  the  fifty-first  degree  of  south  latitude; 
especially  in  the  valleys  of  the  interior,  on  the  banks  of  rivers,  lagoons, 
&c.,  and  at  the  heads  of  bays.  The  coast  abounds  with  sea-otters, 
hair-seals,  fur-seals,  Slc.  ;  and  the  interior  with  lions,  tigers,  deer^ 
guanacoes,  hares,  gray  and  black  foxes,  and  many  other  animals 
with  which  I  am  not  acquainted,  including  a  large  black  rabbit,  which 
has  a  fur  equal  to  that  of  the  beaver.  There  are  many  kinds  of 
ostriches,  swans,  &lc.,  and  thousands  of  birds  with  the  most  beautiful 
plumage.  There  are  likewise  very  valuable  mines  of  gold,  silver,, 
copper,  lead,  and  iron ;  medicinal  plants,  drugs,  and  die-woods,  with 
much  valuable  timber  for  ship-building  and  cabinet  work. 

I  feel  very  anxious  to  direct  the  attention  of  my  enterprising  country- 
men to  this  long  neglected,  almost  unknown  region  of  South  America. 
A  small  exploring  expedition,  properly  fitted  out,  and  conducted  by 
men  of  skill  and  experience,  would  ensure  golden  returns  to  the  pro- 
jectors. The  necessary  investments  of  capital  would  be  very  trifling 
to  a  company  of  merchants  ;  and  if  accompanied  by  one  or  two  scientific 
gentlemen,  I  stand  ready  to  tender  my  professional  services.  The 
spirit  of  commercial  enterprise  cannot  much  longer  leave  these  inter- 
esting regions  unexplored  ;  and  I  should  be  extremely  sorry  to  see  any 
foreign  competitor  enjoy  the  fame  and  opulence  which  now  court  the 
acceptance  of  my  own  countrymen.       « 

The  port  of  St.  Carlos  is  sheltered  on  the  north-west  by  the  penin- 
sula of  Lacay,  on  the  west  side  of  which  there  are  many  dangerous, 
rocks,  rumiing  from  one  to  three  miles  seaward ;  and  these  require  a 


168  ST.  CARLOS— VALDIVIA  BAV.  [1824. 

good  berth,  as  the  tides  run  very  rapidly  along  the  shores  of  this  island. 
The  port  is  defended  by  two  forts,  about  three  miles  from  each  other. 
It  runs  into  the  land  in  a  south-west  direction,  and  is  safe,  but  subject 
to  violent  blows  from  the  north-west  and  west-south-west  in  the  winter 
season ;  and  these  often  come  on  very  suddenly,  with  heavy  falls 
of  rain. 

Vessels  bound  to  this  port  should  endeavour  to  enter  it  in  clear 
weather,  as  the  tides  run  through  the  strait  about  seven  miles  an  hour, 
and  renders  the  navigation  very  dangerous  in  calms  or  thick  weather. 
In  all  cases  it  is  proper  to  keep  the  shore  of  the  island  best  on  board, 
as  the  middle  of  the  strait  contains  many  simken  rocks  and  small  low- 
islands.  AVood,  water,  fish,  and  refreshments  of  every  kind,  may  be 
had  here  on  the  most  moderate  terms.  The  tide  rises  from  fourteen 
to  eighteen  feet ;  and  it  is  high  water,  on  full  and  change  days,  at  half- 
past  eleven  o'clock. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Bay  and  City  of  Valdivia — The  Araucanians — Town  of  Pelchue — Retrospective 
Observations — Towns  of  Colema  and  Chilian — Province  of  Chilian — Arrive  at 
Valparaiso — Continue  the  Survey  of  the  Coast — Province  and  City  of  Copiago 
— Bay  and  Town  of  Pisco — Sailing  Directions,  &c. — The  Bay  or  Roads  of  Cal- 
lao — The  Blockade  and  Siege  of  Callao — General  Rodil  refuses  to  Surrender — 
The  Tartar  enters  without  Ceremony. 

Having  supplied  ourselves  with  such  refreshments  as  we  stood  in 
need  of,  and  taken  leave  of  our  kind  and  hospitable  friends  at  St.  Car- 
los, we  left  the  island  of  Cliiloe,  and  steered  to  the  northward  as  far  as 
the  port  of  Valdivia,  carefully  examining  the  coast,  which  proved  to  be 
one  continued  range  of  rocks  and  breakers  for  the  distance  of  about 
forty  leagues.  They  extend  from  one  to  tln-ee  miles  off-shore,  and 
are  veiy  dangerous  for  mariners  to  approach,  w'ho  should  always  be 
careful  to  give  them  a  good  berth,  unless  they  are  in  search  of  hair- 
seals,  Mhich  frequent  this  part  of  the  coast ;  but  are  difficult  of  access, 
on  account  of  the  heavy  swell  that  continually  rolls  in  from  the  west- 
ward. 

Between  St.  Carlos  and  Valdivia,  or  rather  Baldivia,  as  it  ought  to 
be  written,  there  is  no  resting-place  for  the  mariner ;  neither  port  nor 
shelter — trade  nor  relreshments.  Far  inland  are  seen  the  towering 
Andes,  lifting  their  giant  forms  to  the  sky,  and  collecting  at  their  base 
the  means  of  supplying  several  small  rivers  which  descend  to  this  part 
of  the  seacoast ;  but  none  of  them  are  navigable.  Between  the  paral- 
lels of  thirty-nine  and  fifty  of  south  lathude,  there  are  several  volca- 
noes to  be  seen  among  the  Andes.  I  have  seen  more  than  a  dozen  in 
running  along  this  part  of  the  coast,  some  of  which  were  near  the 
shore,  and  burning  with  inconceivable  rage.  Some  distance  inland 
are  extensive  plains,  which  form  fine  grazing  fields  for  cattle. 

November   'llth. — We   reached    the    mouth   of  Baldivia  Bav   on 


Nov.]  CITY  OF  VALDIVIA.  169 

Saturday,  the  twenty-seventh  of  November ;  latitude  39^  50'  S.,  lon^. 
73^  36'  W.  On  the  north-east  side  of  this  beautiful  bay  is  a  populous 
town  of  the  same  name,  erected  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river  Baldivia, 
about  eight  miles  from  the  seaboard.  The  harbour  is  sheltered  from 
all  winds,  and  there  is  sufficient  depth  of  water  for  vessels  of  one  hun- 
dred tons  to  lie  abreast  of  the  town,  within  a  few  fathoms  of  the  land- 
ing. This  place  is  well  defended  by  several  fortifications,  and  carries 
on  a  considerable  trade  with  the  northern  parts  of  Chili  and  Peru.* 

This  city  was  built  by  the  Spanish  general  Baldivia,  about  the  year 
1551.  Eight  years  afterward,  the  people  of  Chili,  x4-raucanians  prin- 
cipally, defeated  the  Spanish  troops,  and  chased  them  from  this  settle- 
ment, burned  the  town,  and  put  the  inhabitants  to  the  sword.  How 
long  they  kept  possession  I  have  never  learned;  but  in  1645  it  was 
taken  by  the  Dutch,  who  were  soon  compelled  to  abandon  it,  and  to 
leave  all  their  cannon,  consisting  of  thirty  or  forty  pieces,  their  baggage, 
and  their  stores.  This  sudden  retreat  was  owincr  to  their  receivino 
intelligence  that  succours  had  been  transmitted  from  Peru. 

The.  population  of  Baldivia  is  estimated  at  about  five  thousand, 
being  a  mixture  of  Spaniards,  Araucanians,  and  original  Yaldivians. 
They  are,  in  general,  a  well  made,  robust,  active  people,  with  pleasing 
and  interesting  countenances.  Their  faces  are  round  and  full ;  their 
eyes  small,  but  (^jick,  lively,  and  expressive  :  all  their  features  are 
well  formed,  especially  the  nose  and  mouth.  Their  limbs  are  very 
muscular,  and  finely  proportioned,  with  small  hands  and  feet.  The 
head  is  covered  with  thick  black  hair,  which  is  not  suffered  to  grow 
long.     The  teeth  of  both  sexes  are  very  white,  regular,  and  handsome. 

For  symmetry  of  form  and  grace  of  motion,  the  ladies  of  Baldivia  will 
yield  to  no  other  on  the  coast.  Their  sharp,  black,  quick,  penetrating 
eve  is  well  calculated  to  soften  the  most  frigid  heart  that  mav  be  ex- 
posed  to  its  glance.  Easy  in  manners  and  address ;  mild,  gentle, 
tender,  and  affectionate  in  their  social  relations  ;  modest  and  retiring, 
yet  not  without  a  due  share  of  well  tempered  self-confidence  ;  delicacy 
of  sentiment,  and  refinement  of  expression — all  these  charms  are  theirs, 
besides  others  of  less  importance. 

There  are  many  valuable  gold  mines  near  this  place,  and  for  that 
reason  the  Spaniards  fortified  it,  regarding  it  as  a  key  to  the  South 
Seas.  This  circumstance  has  tended  to  assist  its  growth  and  increase 
its  prosperity.  As  a  seaport,  Baldivia  affords  ever}'  convenience  for 
ships  to  go  through  a  thorough  repair,  at  a  very  moderate  expense.  A 
considerable  number  of  ship-carpenters  are  constantly  employed  here 
in  constructing  small  vessels,  and  some  even  as  large  as  three  hundred 
tons  burthen,  which  they  send  to  Peru  and  the  north  part  of  Chili  for 
sale,  usually  meeting  with  a  ready  market.  At  this  place,  and  also 
at  St.  Carlos,  ships  may  generally  find  a  sale  for  part  of  their  cargoes, 
of  the  coarser  kinds  of  goods  than  are  used  farther  north.  At  the  same 
time,  all  kinds  of  refreshments  can  be  had  here  in  great  abundance, 
and  at  a  very  low  rate  ;  the  natural  productions  being  similar  to  those 

*  Baldivia  Bay  was  surveyed  in  the  year  1819,  by  CaptainWilliam  Skiddy.eldest  son  of  Captain  John 
R.  ?=kiildy,  of  New-York.  I  nave  sailed  with  this  gentleman,  as  his  fir*<t  ofiicer.  eig'.iteen  months, 
and  avail  myself  with  pleasure  of  this  ocrasion  to  bear  testimony  to  his  estimable  character  as  a 
man,  and  Ills  superior  e.vcelleace  as  a  ship-master. 


170  THE  ARAUCANIANS.  [1824, 

of  St.  Carlos;  and  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  two  places  differ 
but  very  little. 

I  have  already  mentioned  that  the  aborigines  on  this  coast  are  called 
Araucanians,  and  that  thoy  inhabit  the  rich  and  fertile  districts  between 
the  rivers  Biobio  and  Valdivia.  The  fruitfulness  of  the  soil,  abundant 
springs,  and  a  temperate  climate,  render  that  country  even  more  de- 
lightful than  Chili.  Arauco,  the  smallest  province  in  their  territory, 
has  given  its  name  to  the  whole  nation.  Tliey  never  used  to  build 
towns,  but  resided  in  scattered  villages,  or  in  hamlets  on  the  banks 
of  rivers.  Love  of  liberty  and  want  of  refinement  induced  them  to 
consider  walled  cities  as  the  residence  of  slaves. 

The  Araucanians,  says  Vancouver,  were  the  only  people  in  South 
America  that  maintained  their  independence  by  force  of  arms  ;  but  the 
prudence  and  ability  of  a  single  individual  have  done  more  in  reducing 
that  warlike  people  than  all  the  armies  of  Spain.  By  the  judicious 
policy  of  Vallenor,  President  of  Chili,  the  two  nations  have  long  been 
kept  on  amicable  terms  with  each  other ;  and  now  Indian  magistrates 
superintend  the  trade  carried  on  by  their  countrymen  with  the  Span- 
iards. The  colonists  and  the  natives  associate  with  each  other,  and 
Araucanian  workmen  are  frequently  met  with  in  the  Spanish  settle- 
ments. Intermarriages  have  likewise  tended  to  strengthen  the  bond 
of  union,  as  is  also  the  case  at  Chiloe. 

Polygamy  is  considered  lawful  by  the  Araucanians  in  the  interior, 
who  still  adhere  to  their  ancient  usages  ;  but  the  first  wife  is  treated  with 
great  respect  by  all  the  others,  and  acknowledged  to  be  their  superior. 
Each  wife  is  obliged  to  present  daily  to  her  husband  a  dish  prepared 
M'ith  her  own  hands  ;  and  once  a  year  a  poncho,  or  embroidered  cloak. 
The  women  pay  great  attention  to  the  cleanliness  of  their  persons. 

November  2Sth. — On  Sunday  morning,  at  six,  A.  M.,  we  resumed 
our  survey  of  the  coast,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  south-south-west^ 
and  fair  weather ;  and  on  ^Monday,  the  twenty-ninth,  were  close  in  with 
the  entrance  of  the  river  Tolten.  We  soon  discovered  that  this  river 
would  admit  nothing  but  boats  ;  and  even  to  enter  with  them  would  be 
at  the  hazard  of  capsizing,  from  the  heavy  rollers  that  are  continually 
running  in  from  the  south-west,  and  breaking  on  the  bar  a  great  part 
of  the  year. 

There  is  a  small  town  on  the  northern  bank  of  this  river,  which  the 
natives  call  Pelchue,  containing  about  seven  hundred  inhabitants, 
principally  converted  Araucanians.  They  have  a  church  and  two 
Catholic  priests,  who  are  Spaniards,  and  keep  the  people  completely 
mider  their  control.  These  ecclesiastical  gentlemen  attend  the  fan- 
dango dances  with  the  natives,  and  share  in  their  favourite  amusement 
of  cock-fighting,  at  which  the  latter  will  often  hazard  all  that  they  are 
worth.  There  is  a  building  erected  expressly  for  that  purpose  in  the 
south  part  of  the  town,  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  garden.  The  build- 
ing is  one  story  high,  and  about  forty  by  sixty  feet  on  the  floor,  with  a 
circle  of  seats  and  galleries.  This  amusement  is  allowed  only  on  Sun- 
days and  festivals,  on  which  days  it  is  attended  by  a  vast  concourse 
of  people  of  all  classes,  the  most  of  whom  are  never  backward  ia 
betting. 


Dec]  RETROSPECTIVE  OBSERVATIONS.  17X 

The  church  is  large  and  capacious,  but  not  elevated,  on  account  of 
earthquakes.  It  is  richly  endowed,  and  the  interior  is  fitted  up  and 
embellished  in  a  style  of  considerable  splendour.  In  these  embellish- 
ments the  precious  metals  are  not  spared,  particularly  about  the  altars. 
Some  of  the  columns  are  plated  with  silver  an  inch  thick  ;  while  llie 
drapery,  curtains,  cushions,  and  tassels  are  all  of  rich  silk  crimson 
damask.  The  bell  is  large,  and  in  fair  weather  may  be  heard  at  a 
great  distance.  The  amusements  of  both  sexes,  at  evening  or  after- 
noon parties,  are  similar  to  those  of  the  citizens  of  St.  Carlos. 

November  30th. — From  the  river  Tolten  we  continued  our  course  to 
the  north.  The  coast  from  Valdivia  to  the  island  of  Mocha  is  en- 
tirely free  from  dangers  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,  and  continues  the 
same  to  the  island  of  St.  Maria  south  of  the  river  Biobio.  From  Val- 
divia to  Carnero  Bay  the  course  is  about  north-north-west  one-quarter 
north  ;  and  from  thence  to  St.  Maria  the  course  is  north-by-west,  and 
north-half-west.  We  landed  at  the  river  Tarua,  bearing  east-by-north 
from  the  island  of  Mocha,  distant  about  six  leagues.  The  landing  at 
the  mouth  of  this  river  is  very  good  at  high-water. 

There  is  a  small  village  on  the  south  bank  of  this  river,  called  by 
the  natives  Yapelhue,  where  refreshments  of  every  kind  may  be  had 
on  the  most  moderate  terms.  The  inhabitants  are  Araucanians,  and 
are  a  very  good-natured,  friendly  sort  of  people.  Their  property  con- 
sists principally  of  cattle,  sheep,  and  hogs.  They  also  raise  an  abun- 
dance of  fruit,  particularly  apples,  of  which  they  make  very  good  cider. 
The  mouth  of  this  river  is  in  latitude  38^  18'  S.,  long.  73°  45'  W. 

From  this  last-mentioned  place  to  the  island  of  St.  Maria  there  are 
several  small  rivulets,  but  they  are  not  even  navigable  for  boats.  The 
back  country  presents  to  the  mariner,  as  he  sails  along  this  coast  from 
one  to  three  miles  ofF-shore,  one  of  the  most  pleasing  and  picturesque 
appearances  I  have  ever  witnessed  in  any  part  of  the  world ;  and  the 
shores  are  entirely  free  from  dangers.  We  saw  a  few  small  rookeries 
of  hair-seals  on  the  beaches  to  the  south  of  the  Bay  of  Carnero. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  last-mentioned  bay  is  the  highland  of  Tu- 
capel,  a  rocky  mountain  about  two  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  from  which  it  rises  in  a  bluff  precipice,  forming  a  very  conspicu- 
ous mark  for  this  part  of  the  coast,  as  there  is  no  other  elevated  land 
between  the  island  of  Mocha  and  Conception  Bay. 

December  3d. — On  Friday,  the  3d  of  December,  we  passed  the 
mouth  of  Port  Conception,  within  about  one  mile  of  the  shore. 

By  this  time  the  reader  must  be  aware  that  every  mile  of  the  east 
coast  of  Patagonia,  from  Cape  Corrientes  to  the  Strait  of  Magellan, 
through  the  strait  to  Cape  Victory,  and  from  thence  to  Port  Concep- 
tion, through  the  Gulf  of  Guaytecas,  has  been  carefully  examined  by 
my  boats ;  and  wherever  there  is  no  danger  mentioned  in  this  journal, 
the  reader  may  be  sure  that  the  passage  or  coast  is  safe.  If  a  frank, 
open,  plain  statement  of  facts  should  obtain  currency,  instead  of  those 
highly  wrought  descriptions  of  dangers  which  border  on  romance,  I  am 
led  to  believe  that  navigation  in  the  most  distant  parts  of  the  world 
"will,  in  a  short  time,  be  considered  equally  safe  and  easy  as  that  be- 
tween America  and  Europe.     All  that  is  necessary  to  bring  about  this 


172  TOWN  OF  CHILLAN.  [1824. 

desirable  result  is  for  ever}'  navigator  to  give  unvarnished  statements 
of  tilings  as  they  really  and  actually  exist ;  and  not  attempt  to  enhance 
liis  own  reputation  for  skill  and  courage  by  exaggerating  the  difficulties 
lie  has  encountered  and  overcome.  From  the  long  experience  which 
I  have  had,  in  the  most  windy,  blustering,  and  boisterous  seas, — along 
roasts,  around  capes,  and  through  straits,  on  almost  every  part  of  the 
globe's  surface,  I  can  assert  with  confidence,  without  the  fear  of  the 
fact's  being  disproved,  that  there  is  no  worse  weather  or  more  hazard- 
ous navigation,  in  any  latitude  or  longitude,  than  there  is  on  the  coast 
of  North  America. 

It  is  a  melancholy  fact  that  most  disastrous  accidents  have  occurred, 
and  will  again  occur,  to  the  best  of  ships,  commanded  by  the  most 
^ble  navigators,  and  manned  by  the  most  efficient  crews.  But  where 
there  is  one  fact  of  this  description,  there  are  many  of  a  very  diff'erent 
character.  Some  ship-masters,  I  am  sorry  to  say  it,  do  not  understand 
their  duty,  and  are  not  competent  to  fill  the  station  to  which  they  have 
aspired  ;  others,  who  are  better  qualified,  are  deficient  in  energy  and 
decision,  and  have  not  confidence  in  their  own  judgment.  Many  dis- 
asters are  attributable  to  both  these  facts ;  and  they  are  published  to 
the  world  as  so  many  evidences  of  unavoidable  perils  in  navigation. 

As  before  stated,  we  passed  Port  Conception  on  the  3d  of  Decem- 
ber, and  traced  the  shore  along  to  the  northward,  for  the  distance  of 
thirteen  leagues,  to  the  river  Itata.  The  coast  between  the  two  places 
runs  north-by-west,  with  a  bold  shore,  free  from  dangers  a  little  more 
than  two  cables'  length  from  the  beach. 

On  the  north  bank  of  the  river  Itata,  about  ten  miles  from  its  en- 
trance, is  the  Ihtle  town  of  Colemu,  inhabited  by  about  six  hundred 
Araucanians,  and  one  Catholic  priest,  a  native  of  Old  Spain.  Farther 
up  the  river,  at  the  distance  of  about  seventy  miles,  on  the  same  side, 
stands  the  populous  town  of  Chilian,*  containing  about  twelve  hundred 
inhabitants  of  the  same  race,  who  are  blest  with  seven  Catholic 
priests,  besides  about  thirty  other  persons  from  Spain,  England,  and 
the  United  States,  most  of  whom  have  absconded  from  ships  engaged 
in  the  whaling  business,  while  watering  at  Talcaguano,  and  settled 
here ;  having  taken  "  wives  of  the  daughters  of  the  land,"  with  whom 
they  appear  to  live  very  happily.  This  town  can  boast  of  two  churches 
and  a  convent.  The  inhabitants  are  a  very  active,  industrious  people, 
engaged  in  rural  and  pastoral  occupations,  particularly  in  raising  wheat 
and  cattle.  A  considerable  quantity  of  grain  is  shipped  from  this  place 
to  Conception  and  Valparaiso,  in  small  vessels  of  one  hundred  tons 
and  less,  navigated  by  the  natives  of  the  coast. 

On  spring  tides,  the  water  has  a  depth  of  ten  feet  as  far  up  this 
river  as  the  town  fii-st  mentioned ;  between  which  and  Chilian  inter- 
course is  kept  open  by  small  flat  canoes.  In  the  summer  season,  a 
ship  may  anchor  in  a  small  bay  about  three  miles  to  the  northward  of 

*  This  town,  which  is  also  called  San  Bartholomew,  is  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Chilian,  the 
latter  being  twelve  leagues  from  north  to  south,  and  twenty-five  from  east  to  west.  Its  plains,  being 
considerably  elevated,  aflbrd  excellent  pasture  for  sheep,  whose  wool  is  reckoned  of  a  superior 
quality.  The  province  Itnta,  between  Chilian  and  the  coast,  is  eleven  leagues  from  north  to  south, 
and  twenty-three  from  sra-t  to  west.  It  produces  the  best  wine  in  all  Chili.  !>'MO\nii  by  the  name 
of  Concepiioa  wine,  from  ii.s  being  the  product  of  lands  belonging  to  the  inhabitants  of  that  city. 


Dec]  SURVEYING  THE  COAST— VALPARAISO.  173 

tlie  river ;  where,  with  the  prevaiUng  winds,  she  will  have  a  tolerable 
good  shelter,  in  from  twenty  to  five  fathoms  of  water,  with  sandy  bob- 
torn.  Whatever  refreshments  may  be.  wanted  will  be  brought  off  in 
bolses,  if  the  sea  be  too  rough  for  the  ship's  boat  to  land.  There  are 
no  dangers  along  this  part  of  the  coast,  excepting  off  the  north  point 
of  the  river,  where  there  is  a  sandbank,  running  nearly  dead  off-shore 
for  the  distance  of  half  a  mile.  In  approaching  this  bank,  the  water 
shallows  veiy  suddenly,  from  ten  fathoms  to  two.  After  bringing  the 
extremity  of  the  north  point  ©f  the  river  (which  is  very  low)  to  bear 
east-by-south,  the  ship  will  be  to  the  north  of  the  bank ;  when  she 
may  choose  her  own  anchorage,  taking  care  to  be  at  least  half  a  mile 
from  the  shore,  that  she  may  have  room  to  get  under  way,  if  the  wind 
should  set  in  from  the  westward,  which  is  seldom  the  case. 

About  twenty-six  leagues  from  the  river  Itata,  on  a  north-half-west 
course,  the  river  Maule,  mentioned  in  my  former  voyage,  empties  its 
w^aters  into  the  Pacific.  Between  these  two  rivers  the  coast  is  entirely 
free  from  dangers,  two  cables'  length  from  the  shore.  Twelve  leagues 
north  of  the  Itata  are  three  small  islands,  or  rocks,  connected  with  the 
2Tiain,  from  which  ships  are  perfectly  safe  at  the  distance  of  twenty 
fathoms.  On  these  rocks  we  found  a  few  hair-seals,  but  they  were 
very  wild. 

Seventeen  leagues  from  Rio  Maule,  about  north-half-west,  lies  the 
Topocalma  Shoal,  which  is  nearly  three  miles  in  length,  and  about  the 
same  distance  from  the  shore.  I  have  seen  the  sea  break  on  this  reef 
with  great  violence,  but  the  passage  between  it  and  the  main  is  safe 
for  small  vessels.  I  would  not,  however,  recommend  it  to  ships,  ex- 
cept in  case  of  necessit)^  This  reef  lies  in  lat.  33^  53'  S.,  and  the 
land  abreast  of  it  runs  circuitously  towards  the  river  Mapo,  on  the 
north  bank  of  which  is  a  small  town,  called  by  the  natives  Logrono, 
or  Antonio, 

From  the  river  Mapo,  a  course  north-wcst-by-north  leads  to  a  white 
rock,  in  lat.  33^  27'  S.,  which  appears  at  a  distance  like  a  vessel 
under  sail  running  along  the  coast.  This  rock  is  nearly  connected 
with  the  shore,  and  forms  a  good  landmark  for  distinguishing  this  part 
of  the  coast.  Fifteen  miles  north-north-west  from  White  Rock  is 
Point  de  Couramilla,  having  a  sugar-loaf  hill  near  it,  which  has  the  same 
appearance  from  different  points  of  view  on  the  seaboard.  The  coast 
fi-om  Topocalma  Shoal  to  Point  Couramilla  is  bold,  and  free  from 
dangers  ;  but  to  the  northward  of  the  latter  there  are  some  rocks,  which 
run  out  about  half  a  mile  from  the  land.  From  hence  to  Point  Angel, 
at  the  entrance  of  Valparaiso  Bay,  the  land  is  high,  and  the  course 
north-north-east,  about  four  leagues'  distance.  Point  Angel  may  be 
known  by  a  house  and  signal-staff  upon  it. 

December  Sth. — Having  thus  examined  the  whole  extent  of  this 
coast,  from  Cape  Tres  Montes  to  the  Bay  of  Valparaiso,  we  entered 
the  last-named  port  on  Wednesday,  the  8th  of  December,  and  came 
to  anchor  in  fifteen  fathoms  of  water,  about  three  cables'  length  from 
shore.  From  this  anchorage  Point  Angel  bore  west-by-north;  the 
fort  in  the  town  west-north-west ;  the  church  of  Almandel  south-east- 
by-east-half-east  ;  and  the  eastern  point  of  the  bay  north-east-by-east. 


174  VALPARAISO— COPIAPO.  [1824. 

?■  I  lost  no  time  in  paying  my  respects  to  my  old  friend,  Mr.  Hogan, 
M'ho  received  me  in  the  most  cordial  and  affectionate  manner,  tendering 
his  services  in  that  kind,  polite,  delicate,  and  friendly  style  uhich  re- 
lieves a  favour  from  the  weight  of  obligation.  Indeed,  the  generons 
feelings  of  this  truly  good  man  are  too  prone  to  run  ahead  of  his  limited 
means,  especially  in  cases  where  the  interests  of  his  countrymen  are 
concerned.  His  life  is  devoted  to  acts  of  usefulness  and  beneficence, 
nnd  the  emoluments  of  his  office  are  nothing  in  comparison  with  the 
sum  of  good  he  performs.  Few  things  would  afford  me  greater  pleasure 
than  to  see  this  venerable  and  faithful  officer  rewarded  by  his  countiy 
with  some  situation  under  the  government  where  the  labours  would  be 
lishter  and  the  reward  more  commensurate  with  his  deserts. 

As  a  brief  description  of  Valparaiso,  comprising  all  the  particulars 
with  which  I  am  acquainted,  will  be  found  in  the  journal  of  my  former 
voyage,  I  have  nothing  to  add  in  this  place.  Having  transacted  the 
little  business  I  had  to  perform  at  this  port,  we  sailed  for  Callao  on 
Saturday,  the  11th  of  December,  with  fresh  winds  from  south-south- 
west, and  fair  weather.  After  passing  Coquimbo,  we  touched  at  the 
Bird  Islands  in  search  of  seals,  but  found  very  few  of  the  fur  kind. 
These  islands  are  in  lat.  29°  35'  S.,  and  lie  about  north-west  from 
Point  Tortuga,  distant  eight  leagues  ;  being  ten  miles  from  the  nearest 
land.  Still  farther  north  is  the  island  of  Choros.  Ships  may  run  any- 
where among  these  islands,  or  between  them  and  the  main,  with 
perfect  safety. 

Eleven  leagues  from  these  islands,  in  the  direction  of  north-by-west, 
is  the  island  of  Canaveral,  joined  to  the  main  by  a  small  sandbank, 
M'hich  is  covered  at  full  sea.  Six  leagues  farther,  north-half-east,  is 
Point  Aliade,  off  which  there  are  a  few  rocks,  which  extend  into  the 
sea  for  the  distance  of  about  half  a  mile.  Nearly  north,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  two  leagues,  in  lat.  28°  24'  S.,  long.  70°  58'  AV.,  is  the  port 
of  Huasco,  or  Guasco,  which  is  merely  a  roadstead,  open  to  the  winds 
from  north  to  west-by-south  ;  which  never  blow  at  this  place,  however, 
so  as  to  injure  any  ship.  The  anchorage  is  in  front  of  the  river, 
tinder  a  small  low  island,  in  from  fifteen  to  seven  fathoms  of  water, 
sand  and  mud  bottom.  Huasco  Hill  is  high,  rising  in  two  peaks,  the 
northernmost  of  which  is  the  highest,  forming  a  good  mark  in  running 
for  this  place,  as  there  is  no  other  like  them  on  all  the  coast. 

December  \Ath. — ATe  left  the  port  of  Huasco  on  Tuesday,  the  14th, 
and  steered  to  the  north,  with  a  favourable  wind,  and  fair  weather ; 
and  on  the  following  day  w'e  were  off'  the  port  of  Copiapo.  All  the 
islands  and  rocks  between  this  place  and  Coquimbo  are  frequented  by 
hair-seals  ;  and  a  small  cargo  might  be  obtained  in  the  pupping  season. 

The  city  of  Copiapo  is  the  capital  of  a  province  of  the  same  name, 
which  contains  mines  of  iron,  copper,  platina,  lead,  and  silver,  and 
abounds  in  gold,  lapis-lazuli,  and  fossil  salt.  The  city  is  situated  on 
a  river  which  also  bears  the  same  appellation,  and  is  in  lat.  27°  10'  S., 
and  long.  71°  4'  W.  The  province,  which  stretches  from  the  Andes 
to  the  sea,  is  one  hundred  leagues  in  length,  and  about  seventy  in 
breadth.  Its  northern  part  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  the  hunters  of  an 
animal  called  the  vicugna,  about  the  size  of  a  tame  goat,  but  greatly 


Dec]  COPIAPO.  175 

exceeding  it  in  the  length  of  its  neck  and  legs.  In  this  province,  as 
in  its  more  southerlj-  neighbour,  Coquimbo,  it  very  seldom  rains  ;  but 
the  dews  fall  in  such  abundance  as  in  a  great  measure  to  supply  the 
want  of  rain.  Snow,  except  on  the  Andes,  is  very  uncommon ;  and 
on  the  coast  entirely  unknown.  The  climate  is  mild,  equable,  and 
salubrious,  and  the  inhabitants  enjoy  a  constant  succession  of  fine 
weather  from  the  beginning  of  spring  until  autumn. 

Previous  to  tlie  invasion  of  the  Spaniards,  in  1535,  the  provinces 
of  Copiapo  and  Coquimbo  had  been  subdued  by  the  Peruvians,  under 
their  tenth  inca,  Yupanqui,  who  imposed  on  them  an  annual  tribute  of 
gold,  but  made  no  innovation,  either  in  their  customs,  manners,  or  gov- 
ernment, all  of  which  they  were  sufl'ered  to  retain  free  and  unaltered, 
till  the  year  1535,  when  Chili  was  invaded  by  the  Spaniards,  under 
Diego  Almagro.  This  brave  and  enterprising  officer,  who  afterward 
fell  m  a  contest  with  the  army  of  his  rival,  Pizarro,  was  succeeded  by 
Valdivia,  who  gave  his  name  to  the  city  and  river  mentioned  in  the  first 
part  of  this  chapter.  He  was  finally  defeated  by  the  intrepid  Arau- 
canians,  his  army  cut  to  pieces,  and  himself  taken  prisoner.  Not  a 
single  Spaniard  escaped  the  slaughter ;  only  two  Promaucians,  who 
were  now  allies  to  their  invaders,  reached  Conception  with  intelligence 
of  the  battle.  Valdivia  condescended  to  ask  his  life  of  the  conquering 
Araucanians,  but  was  put  to  death. 

,  The  city  of  Copiapo  has  been  frequently  destroyed  by  earthquakes, 
which  have  occurred  at  different  periods,  about  twenty-five  years  dis- 
tant from  each  other.  Thus  there  was  one  in  1773,  another  in  1796, 
and  a  third  in  1819.  The  ruins,  which  are  still  visible,  present  a 
scene  of  dreadful  destruction ;  the  walls  of  the  difi'erent  buildings  and 
churches  having  fallen  in  difierent  directions.  On  the  west  side  of  the 
ruins,  at  some  distance,  is  the  silver  mine  of  Santa  Clara.  There  are 
also  gold  mines  in  the  neighbourhood. 

The  point  of  Copiapo  forms  a  remarkable  headland,  and  from  a  dis- 
tance appears  like  an  island.  The  river  empties  into  the  north-east 
part  of  Salada  Bay,  and  there  is  a  small  island  lying  before  its  en- 
trance. The  bluff  point,  or  Moro  of  Copiapo,  lies  in  lat.  27^  10'  S., 
long.  71°  4'  W.     Variation  per  azimuth  11°  55'  easterly. 

To  the  northward  of  Copiapo  the  coast  runs  north,  a  little  westerly, 
to  the  Bay  of  Mexillones,  which  has  good  anchorage  under  the  south 
shore,  in  from  fifteen  to  five  fathoms  of  water,  sandy  bottom.  This 
place  is  situated  in  lat.  23°  2'  S.,  long.  70°  21'  W. — the  great  Desert 
of  Atacama  forming  the  interior.  We  continued  examining  the  coast 
in  this  direction  to  the  river  liOa,  in  lat.  21°  31'  S.,  long  69°  57'  W. 
This  river  divides  Peru  from  Chili,  and  is  the  boundary  line  between 
^Atacama  in  the  latter  and  Tarrapaca  in  the  former.  The  coast,  from 
this  place  to  Copiapo,  has  many  small  islands  and  rocks  lying  near 
its  shores,  on  each  of  which  may  be  found  hair-seals,  the  most  of 
which  can  be  easily  taken.  The  whole  extent  of  this  part  of  the  coast 
is  entirely  free  from  dangers,  half  a  mile  ofl-shore. 

December  20th. — On  Monday,  the  20th,  we  left  the  river  Loa,  and 
steered  for  Callao,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  south-south-east,  and  fair 
weather ;  and  on  Thursday,  the  23d,  we  came  to  anchor  on  the  east 


176  BAY  OF  PISCO.  [1824. 

side  of  Sangallau's  Island,  within  about  half  a  mile  from  the  mainland, 
in  five  fatlioms  of  water,  sandy  bottom.  On  this  island  and  the  adja- 
cent keys  we  found  a  few  fur-seals.  Ilair-seals  were  quite  numerous, 
but  we  did  not  take  any  of  them. 

The  passage  between  Sangallan's  and  the  mainland  is  the  southern 
entrance,  and  perhaps  the  best  passage  to  approach  Pisco ;  though 
vessels  may  pass  on  either  side.  It  is  in  lat.  1.3^  53'  S.,  long.  76^ 
13'  \V.  After  passing  the  east  point  of  this  entrance,  you  may  double 
immediately  round  to  the  eastward,  and  anchor  in  what  is  called  Old 
JMan's  Bay,  in  from  twelve  to  four  fathoms  of  water,  sandy  bottom, 
sheltered  from  all  winds.  There  is  no  danger  in  entei^ing  this  pas- 
sage, keeping  the  mainland  best  aboard,  to  avoid  a  sunken  rock  which 
lies  on  the  other  side,  about  two  cables'  length  from  the  easternmost 
key,  or  small  islet,  on  which  the  sea  breaks  in  rough  weather.  The 
depth  of  water  in  the  passage  is  from  thirty  to  twelve  fathoms.  From 
this  passage  steer  north-east-by-north,  a  little  northerly,  about  eight 
miles,  which  will  bring  you  to  the  anchorage  of  Pisco.  It  was  in  the 
Bay  of  Paraca,  to  the  south  of  this  anchorage,  that  the  celebrated  Lord 
Cochrane  landed,  in  1821. 

In  sailing  from  Pisco  Roads,  you  may  pass  between  Sangallan's 
Island  and  the  Chinca  Islands,  or  to  the  north  of  the  last-mentioned 
islands,  with  perfect  safety,  as  there  are  no  dangers  around  these 
islands,  more  than  two  cables'  length  from  the  shores,  but  what  show 
themselves  on  the  surface. 

The  Bay  of  Pisco  has  been  so  accurately  described  by  Capt.  Amasa 
Delano,  that  I  shall  take  the  liberty  of  copying  the  paragraph  verba- 
tim, as  far  as  it  coincides  with  my  own  actual  observations. 

"  The  Bay  of  Pisco  is  large,  and  as  clear  of  all  dangers  as  any  that 
I  ever  saw.  It  has  regular  soundings  all  over  it,  of  a  moderate  depth 
of  water,  and  tine'  clear  ground  for  a  ship  to  anchor  in.  The  bay  is  a 
crescent  in  the  land,  and  has  a  number  of  islands  lying  before  the 
entrance  to  the  westward  of  it,  which  break  all  the  sea,  or  wind,  if 
there  should  be  any  from  that  quarter.  The  islands  are  called  the 
Tinkers,  and  are  considerably  large  :  they  have  good  anchoring  under 
the  lee  of  them,  and  there  are  many  seals  on  them. 

"  The  most  common  way  to  go  into  Pisco  is  by  coming  from  the 
southward,  and  sailing  between  the  island  of  Sangallan's  and  the  main- 
land. This  island  lies  in  latitude  13°  52'  S.,  and  has  a  passage  be- 
tween it  and  the  main  about  two  miles  in  width,  which  is  very  clear 
of  all  kinds  of  danger.  As  soon  as  it  is  passed,  the  vessel  must  be 
hauled  round  the  point  of  the  bay  to  the  eastward,  and  sail  in  to  the 
northward  and  eastward,  leaving  all  the  islands  and  rocks  to  the  left- 
hand,  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  to  windward.  After  having  passed 
to  the  eastward  of  all  the  islands  in  the  bay,  Pisco  will  come  in  view, 
lying  in  the  easterly  part  of  it,  in  latitude,  by  our  observations  (though 
we  had  not  a  very  good  opportunity  to  observe),  13"^  42'  S.  The 
anchor  may  be  cast  in  four,  five,  or  six  fathoms,  to  the  westward  of 
the  town,  though  in  reality  there  is  good  anchorage  anywhere  to  the 
southward  of  Pisco,  with  a  better  riding-place  than  off  to  the  westward. 

♦*  The  shore  or  landing-place  at  Pisco  is  not  very  good,  owing  to 


Dec]  BLOCKADE  OF  CALLAO.  177 

a  bar  that  lies  before  the  town ;  but  at  most  times  one  can  land  with  a 
good  boat,  and  always  procure  plenty  of  refreshments,  if  the  govern- 
ment will  give  permission.  The  to\\'n  is  much  larger  than  the  other 
small  ports  on  some  parts  of  the  coast,  but  it  is  an  inconsiderable  place. 
It  stands  on  a  plain  which  is  low,  and  runs  for  some  miles  back  before 
it  borders  on  the  mountains,  and  appears  handsome  in  comparison  with 
any  place  south  of  this  till  you  get  to  Coquimbo.  It  is  tolerably  well 
supplied  with  all  kinds  of  provisions^  vegetables,  and  fruit ;  but  the 
fresh  water  is  not  very  good.  The  hoiises  are  built  after  the  style  of 
Conception  and  Valparaiso  :  the  habits  aitd  customs  of  the  people  are 
likewise  similar. 

"  The  country  back  has  a  much  better  aspect  (on  account  of  the 
level  ground  before  you  come  to  the  mountains)  than  any  place  to  the 
south  for  many  degrees.  The  bay  would  accommodate  any  number 
of  ships,  and  afford  them  good  shelter.  The  islands  to  the  westward 
of  it  are  large,  and  aftbrd  nothing  but  seals,  eggs,  and  bird-manure  ; 
the  latter  is  a  great  article  of  trade  on  the  coast  of  Pern,"  &,c. 

Dec.  25tk. — -After  examining  Sangallan's  Island  and  the  Chinca 
Islands  for  fur-seals,  with  very  little  success,  although  hair-seals  were 
plenty,  we  sailed  for  the  port  of  Callao,  the  seaport  and  citadel  of  "  the 
queen  of  cities,"  as  Lima  was  formerly  called  by  the  Spaniards.  This 
was  on  Saturday,  the  25th  of  December ;  the  weather  was  pleasant, 
and  we  were  -wafted  along  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  south-south-east. 
At  two  o'clock  on  the  followinor  mornine  we  came  to  anchor  in  Callao 
roads,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  muddy  bottom,  about  two  cable's  length 
from  the  landing-place. 

The  Bay  of  Callao  is  protected  from  the  prevailing  south  winds  by 
a  long  neck  of  land  which  projects  into  the  sea,  and  by  the  large  island 
of  St.  Lorenzo,  which  rises  opposite  to  this  cape ;  also  by  the  small 
islands  of  Fronton  and  El  Corcobado.  The  island  of  St.  Lorenzo  is 
readily  known,  on  making  it  from  the  west  or  south-west,  by  the  hills 
or  peaks  on  its  north  end.  There  are  several  small  rocky  islets  lying 
off  the  south  end  of  this  island ;  but  there  is  deep  water*  betw^een  them, 
and  a  clear  passage  for  running  into  Callao,  keeping  St.  Lorenzo  best 
ori  board,  until  the  castle  on  Callao  Point  opens  north  of  the  low  sandy 
point  to  the  west  of  it.  But  though  this  entrance  to  Callao  is  perfectly 
safe  for  those  who  are  acquainted,  with  it,  I  would  advise  strangers  to 
go  round  the  north  end  of  St.  Lorenzo.  The  shore  on  the  north  side- 
of  the  bay  is  bold,  and  free  from  dangers. 

Callao  was  at  this  time  in  possession  of  the  royal  troops,  under 
General  Rodil,  commandant  of  the  castle  and  fortress  by  which  the 
place  is  defended.  Although  the  port  was  declared  to  be  under  block- 
ade by  the  patriots,  I  found  no  difficulty  in  passing  in  unmolested.  The 
independence  of  Peru  had  been  at  length  accompHshed  by  the  decisive 
victory  of  Ayacucho,  fought  seventeen  days  before  ray  arrival.  Bolivar 
was  then  at  Lima,  invested  with  dictatorial  powers,  and  the  main  body 
of  the  liberating  army  from  Colombia  was  coriimanded  by  Antonio  Jose  de 
Sucre.  Five  months  of  skilful  manoeuvring  on  either  side  preceded  the 
battle :  the  result  is  well  known ;  the  royalists  were  defeated  with  great 
slaughter.     La  Serna  the  viceroy  was  pursued  and  taken  prisoner ; 

'M  % 


178  TOWN  OF  CALL.\0.  [1824. 

and  General  Ganterac,  the  second  in  command,  found  it  necessary  to 
capitulate. 

By  the  terms  of  capitulation,  all  the  Spanish  possessions  in  Peru 
were  to  be  given  up,  including  the  castles  of  Callao ;  and  all  the  officers, 
stores,  military  magazines,  and  arms  were  to  remain  in  possession  of 
the  patriots.  But  the  commandant  (Rodil)  refused  to  surrender  in  com- 
pliance with  the  capitulation,  and  continued  to  defend  the  castles  of 
Callao  with  unyielding  obstinacy.  Bolivar  Iiad  therefore  issued  a 
proclamation  declaring  the  port  to  be  in  strict  blockade  ;  and  that  Rodil, 
by  his  conduct  in  holding  the  castles,  should  be  considered  as  having 
separated  himself  from  the  Spanish  nation,  and  cut  himself  off  from  all 
the  rights  of  nations.  Adequate  forces  were  also  assembled  by  sea 
and  land,  and  the  castles  closely  invested.  The  patriots  had  erected 
a  battery  within  gun-shot  of  Callao,  and  the  besiegers  and  besieged 
were  continually  firing  upon  each  other,  but  without  much  effect. 
Hodil  was  well  supplied  with  stores  and  ammunition,  and  rejected 
every  proposal  for  his  surrender.* 

Such  was  the  state  of  affairs  when  I  entered  the  port  of  Callao  on 
the  26th  of  December,  1824,  and  anchored  near  the  town.  A  United 
iStates'  squadron,  under  Commodore  Hull,  was  lying  in  the  roadstead, 
consisting  of  the  frigate  United  States,  the  sloop-of-war  Peacock,  and 
schooner  Dolphin  :  their  object  was  the  protection  of  North  American 
commerce,  which  had  suffered  much  during  the  struggle  of  the  revo- 
lution. 


CHAPTER  I\. 

The  Port  of  Callao — Destruction  of  the  Town  in  1746 — Condition  of  the  Place  in 
1824 — Closely  invested  by  Land  and  Sea — Did  not  "  catch  a  Tartar" — The  City 
of  Lima — Sail  from  Callao — Arrive  at  Quilca — Visit  the  City  of  Arequipa — Sail 
from  Quilca — Arrive  at  Port  Santa — Cruise  along  the  Coast — Port  of  Guan- 
chaco — City  of  Truxillo — Bay  of  Caraccas,  and  the  surrounding  Country — View 
of  Chimborazo — A  Nation  in  the  Clouds — Volcano  of  Pichinca — Eruption  of 
Cotopaxi — Sail  from  Caraccas  Bay — Arrive  at  Cocos  Island. 

Callao,  as  the  reader  probably  knows,  is  a  seaport  town  of  Peru, 
situated  on  the  south-east  side  of  a  beautiful  bay  or  harbour,  which 
fonns  the  mouth  of  the  River  Rimac,  or  Lima ;  on  the  south  side  of 
which,  seven  or  eight  miles  more  inland,  stands  the  celebrated  city  of 
that  name.  Previous  to  the  dreadful  earthquake  of  1746,  Callao  was 
considered  by  the  Spaniards  to  be  impregnable :  it  was  then  fortified 
by  ten  bastions  and  several  batteries,  and  defended  by  a  strong  garri- 
.son.  But  that  Callao  was  entirely  destroyed  by  the  visitation  just 
alluded  to,  and  the  present  town  stands  farther  from  the  water,  con- 
sisting of  a  single  street,  not  more  than  half  a  mile  in  length,  follo\ving 

"*  For  a  more  particular  description  of  this  siege,  see  the  Annual  Register,  pabUshed  by  G  &  C. 
CMvill,  for  1625-6,  p.  18S. 


Dec]  DESTRUCTION  OF  CALLAO.  I79 

the  curvature  of  the  bay :  this  street  is  intersected  by  two  or  three 
others,  which  are  of  course  very  snort,  except  the  one  which  commences 
the  great  road  to  Lima. 

The  houses  generally  are  of  one  story  only,  with  flat  roofs,  whicik 
is  of  no  mconvenience  in  a  country  like  this,  where  it  seldom  or  never 
rains.  For  the  greater  security  against  earthquakes,  these  buildings 
are  constructed  in  a  pecuhar  manner,  and  covered  with  exceedingly 
light  materials.  'In  the  first  place,  the  size  and  shape  of  the  intended 
edifice  is  carefully  marked  out  upon  the  ground  which  it  is  intended  to 
occupy.  Tiien,  instead  of  proceeding  to  lay  a  foundation  as  we  do, 
they  dig  deep  holes  in  the  ground  along  the  line  which  marks  the  build- 
ing's dimensions,  about  six  feet  apart,  in  which  they  firmly  set  posts 
of  twelve  or  eighteen  inches  in  circumference,  and  of  sufficient  height 
10  form  a  dwelling.  On  the  outside  of  these  posts  long  sticks  of  bam- 
boo, an  inch  or  more  in  diameter,  are  fastened  in  a  horizontal  position, 
with  thongs  of  undressed  hide.  They  commence  at  the  ground,  where 
they  lash  on  three  bamboos  close  together ;  two  feet  above  them,  they 
lash  on  three  more,  and  so  on  to  the  top,  leaving  about  the  same  dis- 
tance between  each  triplet  of  bamboos  :  through  these  horizontal  layers 
more  slender  bamboos  are  woven  perpendicularly  as  closely  as  possible. 
On  the  outside  of  all  is  put  a  coat  of  plastering,  and  the  walls  of  the 
house  are  completed.  The  roofs  are  of  cane,  and  are  woven  and  plastered 
in  the  same  manner ;  so  that  in  the  most  violent  earthquake,  unless  the 
ground  be  broken,  nothing  can  fall  but  bamboos  and  plaster,  the  weight 
of  which  might  bruise,  but  would  hardly  fracture  a  limb,  much  less 
destroy  life. 

The  old  town  was  differently  constructed,  and  "  great  was  the  fall 
thereof;"  but  though  the  earthquake  v/as  the  cause  of  its  destruction, 
it  was  not  the  immediate  instrument.  "  The  sea,"  says  Ulloa,  "  re- 
ceding to  a  considerable  distance  from  the  shore,  returned  in  moun- 
tainous waves,  foaming  with  the  violence  of  the  agitation,  and  suddenly , 
turned  Callao  and  the  neighbouring  country  into  a  sea.  This  was  not, 
however,  totally  performed  by  the  first  swell  of  the  waves  ;  for  the  sea, 
Tetiring  farther"  (so  far,  says  another  writer,  as  to  leave  the  shipping 
dry),  "  returned  with  still  more  impetuosity, — the  stupendous  masses 
of  water  covering  both  the  walls  and  other  buildings  of  the  place  ;  so 
that  whatever  had  escaped  the  first  irruption  was  now  totally  over- 
whelmed bv  these  terrible  mountains  of  waves,  and  nothing  remained 
except  a  piece  of  the  wall  of  tlie  port  of  Santa  Cruz  as  a  memorial  of 
this  terrible  devastation. 

"There  were  then  in  the  harbour  twenty-three  ships  and  other 
•vessels,  great  and  small,  of  which  nineteen  were  absolutely  sunk; 
Avhile  the  other  four,  one  of  which  was  a  frigate  called  St.  Fermus, 
were  carried  by  the  force  of  the  waves  to  a  great  distance  up  the 
country.  This  terrible  inundation  extended  to  other  parts  of  the  coast, 
as  Cavallos  and  Guanape.  At  Callao,  where  the  number  of  inhabitants 
amounted  to  about  four  thousand,  two  hundred  only  escaped ;  and 
twenty-two  of  these  by  means  of  the  above-mentioned  fragment  of  a 
wall." 

'Thus  was  Callao  entirely  swept  away ;  and  according  to  Captain 

M2 


180  TOW^-  OF  CALLAO.  [188*. 

Delaiio,  who  received  his  information  fiotn  an  antiquated  survivor,  "  ihe 
sea  broke  over  the  ground  where  it  stood  for  several  days  successively 
after  it  happened.  This,"  he  adds,  '•  so  entirely  destroyed  the  soil 
that  it  has  never  collected  since  so  as  to  produce  a  spire  of  grass." 
CapUiin  Delano  was  here  in  1805,  nineteen  years  before  my  visit ;  and 
on  surveying  tlie  site  of  the  former  town,  he  says,  "  The  sight  was 
shocking  to  a  man  ol  sensibility  to  see  the  piles  of  human  bones  that 
lie  here.  The  principal  remains  or  signs  of  a  town  were  the  britk 
arches  and  stoned  cellars  which  v/erc  not  destroyed  by  the  earthquake. 
My  companions  infornicd  me  that  some  of  the  arches  were  the  ruins 
of  prisonji,  w  here  all  the  foreigners,  as  well  as  the  lower  order  of  the 
Spanish  people,  M-ere  confined.  'J'hese  arches  were  fdlcd  with  human 
bones,  as  were  also  most  of  the  cellars,  without  anj''  kind  of  covering 
over  them.  The  reason,  as  I  was  informed,  tliat  the  arches  were  so 
lilled  with  the  bones  was,  that  there  were  people  employed  to  pick  them 
lip  as  fast  as  they  worked  out  of  the  gravel,  and  put  them  into  these 
cellars  and  arches,  but  they  had  not  yet  put  them  all  in.  I  presume 
we  saw  many  cart-loads  strewed  all  over  the  ground,  besides  those  that 
were  already  picked  up  and  deposited."  The  same  earthquake  almost 
totally  destroyed  the  city  of  Lima. 

Callao  road,  bay,  or  harbour  is  the  largest,  safest,  and  most  beautiful 
cf  any  in  the  South  Seas.*  It  contains  no  rocks,  and  the  M'ater  is  very- 
deep.  As  the  winds  which  prevail  here  during  the  winter  always 
blow  from  some  point  between  the  south-cast  and  the  south,  but  most 
generally  from  the  south,  the  water  in  the  bay  is  always  tranquil,  being 
sheltered  by  Callao  Point  and  the  island  of  St.  Lorenzo.  The  river 
of  Lima,  which  discharges  itself  into  the  sea  under  the  walls  of  Callao, 
furnishes  an  abundance  of  good  water  ;  and  the  loading  and  unloading 
of  vessels  are  facilitated  by  a  mole  furnished  with  cranes,  &c. 

The  turbulent  state  of  the  times  during  the  revolutions  and  counter- 
revolutions which  had  distracted  South  America  for  several  years  pre- 
vious to  my  visiting  its  western  coast,  had  greatly  retarded  the  growth 
of  her  cities,  and  the  prosperity  of  the  inhabitants.  While  under  the 
'  government  of  the  Spanish  viceroys,  the  cities  and  towns  of  Peru  were 
more  populous  than  at  present.  In  the  year  1810  the  population  of 
Callao  was  estimated  at  live  thousand  ;  but  in  1829  the  Rev.  Mr.  Stewart 
reports  it  to  be  about  two  thousand.  When  I  visited  it  in  1824,  as 
related  in  this  journal,  it  was  difficult  to  form  any^  accurate  estimate. 
Most  of  its  males  were  in  the  oatriot  armv,  and  many  of  its  inhabitants 
iiad  removed  to  more  tranquil  situations. 

As  the  seaport  of  Lima,  Callao  has  been  a  place  of  considerable 
commerce,  and  will  no  doubt  become  so  agam  when  the  new  republics 
have  once  settled  down  on  a  permanent  basis.  Before  the  provinces 
threw  off  the  Spanish  yoke,  Lima  was  the  general  emporium  of  the 
xiceroyalty,  and  the  common  factory  for  commerce  of  every  kind.  Or 
the  arrival  of  a  fleet  at  Callao  with  European  commodities,  the  merchant^ 
of  Lima  would  forward  to  their  correspondents  in  other  cities  such  ar- 
ticles as  they  had  received  commissions  to  purchase,  and  reserve  tiie 

*  The  Paciflc  Orean  was  firs:t  called  the  South  Seas,  because  the  Spaniards  crossed  the  IsOlcnos 
«r  Darien  from  north  to  south  when  they  discovered  it. 


Dec]  CITY  OF  LIMA.  181 

rest  in  warehouses,  to  be  disposed  of  on  their  own  account  to  traders 
who  resorted  to  the  place,  or  to  be  sent  to  their  factors  in  the  inland 
provinces.  The  produce  of  these  sales  in  the  interior  was  remitted  in 
bars  of  silver,  upon  which  also  a  gl-eat  profit  was  made  at  the  mint. 

The  city  of  Lima,  of  which  so  much  has  been  said,  sung,  and  writ- 
ten, is  the  capital  of  Peru,  and  was  founded  by  the  celebrated  Pizarro, 
on  the  15th  of  January,  1535.  It  stands  in  the  midst  of  a  broad,  spa- 
r-ions, fruitful,  and  delightful  valley,  called  Rimac^  which  received  its 
name  from  an  idol  formerly  worshipped  there  by  the  Peruvians.  The 
word  signifies  "  He  who  speaks,'"  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  corrupted 
•by  the  Spanish  pronunciation  into  Lima.  A  river  of  the  same  name 
runs  close  by  the  city,  on  the  north,  watering  the  valley  by  numerous 
canals,  and  falling  into  the  sea  near  Callao ;  from  the  roadstead  of 
which  can  be  seen  the  towers  and  domes  of  "  tJie  splendid  city"  stretch- 
ing for  a  mde  or  more  in  the  distance,  with  the  gigantic  Andes  soaring 
in  hoary  majesty  at  least  thirty  miles  beyond  them.  These  features 
present  a  beautiful  appearance,  as  Jjeen  from  the  bay  where  I  was  now 
at  anchor,  and  excited  a  strong  desire  in  my  bosom  to  visit  the  "  queen 
of  cities."  But  tnat  was  now  impossible;  I  had  therefore  to  rest  con- 
tented with  such  imperfect  descriptions  as  I  could  pick  up  from  those 
who  had  been  there,  which  I  afterward  found  to  be  correct  from  my 
own  observations. 

The  form  of  the  city  is  triangular,  the  longest  side  extending  along 
the  banks  of  the  river  above  three  thousand  yards ;  and  the  greatest 
breadth  from  tlie  base  to  the  apex  is  about  two  thousand  two  hundred. 
The  whole  of  the  town  is  surroimded  with  a  brick  wall,  flanked  by 
thirty-four  bastions;  the  streets,  which  are  broad  and  regular,  cross 
each  other  at  right  angles :  they  are  well  paved,  and  kept  constantly 
clean  by  streams  of  water  from  the  river,  which  are  arched  over,  and 
rendered  subsenient  not  only  to  cleanliness,  but  to  many  other  conve- 
niences. The  number  of  streets  in  Lima  is  not  less  than  tliree  hun- 
dred and  fifty. 

Pizarro,  in  laying  out  this  city,  distributed  the  spaces  for  the  houses 
into  quarters  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  varas,  or  Spanish  yards.  The 
houses  of  the  wealthy  have  gardens  attached  to  them,  which  are  wa- 
tered  by  the  canals  that  run  through  the  city :  these  houses  are  gene- 
rally built  in  the  Moorish  style,  as  introduced  into  old  Spain  by  their 
invaders, — consisting  of  a  square  pile,  of  two  stories,  enclosing  a  quad- 
rangular court,  which  is  surrounded  witli  piazzas,  and  sometimes  con- 
tain a  second,  or  even  a  third  inner  court.  Those  of  the  less  opulent, 
though  low,  are  generally  commodious,  and  of  a  handsome  appearance  ; 
they  are  constructed  of  wood,  on  account  of  tlie  frequent  earthquakes, 
but  are  so  plastered  and  painted  as  to  resemble  stone  editices. 

The  best  buildings  are  in  and  near  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  th€? 
houses  gradually  decrease  in  beauty  and  convenience  as  the  streets 
approach  the  circumference.  Indeed,  Mr.  Stewart  very  justly  remarks, 
that  on  entering  the  city  from  the  Callao  avenue,  the  appearance  of 
Lima  is  far  from  being  prepossessing.  "  I  scarce  ever  felt  greater 
surprise,"  says  this  obser\'ant  traveller,  "than  on  entering  the  first 
street  after  passing  the  gate.     Instead  of  '  the  splendid  city,'  of  which 


182  CITY  OF  LIMA.  [1824. 

from  childhood  I  had  read  with  such  admiration,  I  was  tempted  to  think 
myself  in  Timbuctoo  itself.  Mud  houses  of  one  low  stor}',  with  large 
doors  and  grated  windows,  exposing  filth  and  poverty  to  view,  inhabited 
only  by  negroes  and  mulattoes,  thronging  in  gaping  and  half-naked 
crowds  about  the  doors  and  corners,  were  alone  in  sight. 

"  By  degrees,  however,  the  appearance  began  to  improve  :  the  houses 
became  more  neat  and  loftv,  till  somediing  like  civilization  and  comfort, 
if  not  elegance,  was  to  be  seen.  But  even  in  the  best  streets  through 
Avhich  we  passed  every  thing  v.ore  a  decayed  and  shabby  appearance, 
svhile  the  covered  verandas  projecting  from  the  second  story,  of  clumsy 
architecture  and  dark  colours,  threw  an  air  of  gloom  over  the  streets." 

Much  of  the  decayed  and  shabby  appearance  above  alluded  to  is 
attributable  to  the  horrors  of  civil  war ;  lor  no  city  can  be  alternately 
occupied  by  hostile  armies  without  suffering  in  its  appearance,  as  well 
as  in  its  moral  and  commercial  health.  But  Lima  is  now  gradually 
improving  in  both,  and  may  yet  resume  the  splendid  rank  she  for- 
merly held. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  connected  with  the  city  by  abridge 
of  brown  freestone,  is  the  suburb  of  St.  Lazaro,  of  considerable  extent, 
equalling  the  city  itself  in  the  regularity  of  its  streets  and  the  beauty 
of  its  edifices.  The  bridge  is  necessarih*  very  substantial  and  lofty, 
as  the  Kiver  Rimac  is  at  some  seasons  swollen  to  an  immense  torrent 
by  the  melting  of  snow  and  ice  on  the  Andes  :  wbile  in  the  winter  the 
stream  is  shallow  and  insignificant,  sometimes  "  presenting  ouly  a  mass 
of  dry  gravel,  intersected  in  two  or  three  places  by  small  rivulets,  purl- 
ing like  so  many  brooks  in  their  pebbly  courses."  The  river  here  is 
about  one  hundred  vards  in  width. 

The  grand  square,  or  Plaza,  as  the  inhabitants  term  it,  in  the  middle 
of  the  city,  is  about  three  hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  extent  on  each* 
side ;  and  the  centre  of  it  is  occupied  by  a  handsome  brass  fountain, 
Ti-hich  formerly  must  have  been  highly  ornamental  to  it.  Historians 
describe  it  as  being  magnificent,  "  ornamented  by  a  bronze  statue  of 
Fame,  from  the  trumpet  of  which,  and  the  mouths  of  eight  lions  sur- 
rounding it,  the  water  is  ejected."  During  the  struggles  of  the  revolution, 
however,  this  fountai^i  was  suffered  to  become  dilapidated  and  out  of 
Tepair,  so  that  it  had  ceased  to  play  when  I  visited  the  city  in  1825. 
Captain  Delano  describes  it,  in  1805,  as  "spouting  the  water  ten  or 
twelve  feet  high,  so  as  to  fall  into  a  square  reservoir,  from  which  it 
conthmally  runs  through  about  twelve  copper  pipes  into  a  basin  of 
sixteen  or  eighteen  feet  diameter,  and  has  a  conductor  through  which 
the  superfluous  water  runs  off.  The  rim  of  this  basin  is  just  high  enough 
for  the  people  to  step  over  and  fill  their  kegs,  which  vessels  are  the 
most  common  in  use  for  that  purpose." 

The  east  side  of  the  Plaza.,  or  public  square,  is  occupied  by  the 
cathedral  and  archbishop's  palace,  bolh  of  which  are  large  buildings, 
partly  constructed  of  stone;  On  the  north  side  of  the  square  is  the 
palace  formerly  the  residence  of  the  viceroy,  but  now  of  the  republican 
president :  this  building  is  said  to  have  been  erected  by  Pizarro,  at  the 
founding  of  the  city  in  1536  ;  and  they  show  strangers  one  o(  the  halls 
of  the  apartment  in  which  the  tyrant  was  assassinated ;  another  exten- 


Dec]  CITY  OF  LIMA.  183 

sive  apartment  in  tlie  same  building  is  called  the  Hall  of  Independence. 
On  the  west  side  is  the  town-house  and  city-prison ;  and  the  south  is 
occupied  with  private  houses,  which  have  fronts  of  stone,  adorned  with 
elegant  porticoes. 

The  churches  and  chapels,  which  are  partly  built  of  stone,  are  deco- 
rated in  the  most  splendid  style,  with  paintings  and  ornaments  of  the 
greatest  value.  But  the  riches  which  have  been  lavished  on  the  cathe- 
dral are  almost  beyond  belief,  though  characteristic  of  a  people  who 
once  paved  a  whole  street  with  ingots  of  silver  in  honour  of  the  arrival 
of  a  new  viceroy  !  Among  the  other  public  buildings  worthy  of  notice, 
I  would  mention  the  cabildo,  or  city-house,  built  in  the  Chinese  style  ; 
the  mint ;  the  palace  of  the  Inquisition,  part  of  Avhich  is  now  occupied 
as  a  national  museum ;  and  the  convent  of  the  Franciscans,  said  ta 
cover  an  eighth  of  the  whole  city.  There  were  formerly  more  than 
twelve  himdred  monks  in  this  place,  but  the  number  is  now  very  much 
reduced.  There  are  fourteen  convents  for  women,  and  an  edifice  for 
a  university,  that  was  founded  in  1576. 

The  women  of  Lima  are  celebrated  for  their  beauty,  vivacity,  and 
extravagance  in  dress.  "They  have  handsome  persons,  fair  com- 
plexions, beautiful  hair,  and  a  pleasing  lustre  in  their  eyes  :  their  intel- 
lects are  very  acute,  their  behaviour  easy,  yet  respectful,  and  their  con- 
versation inexpressibly  interesting ;  and  though  chargeable  with  a 
considerable  degree  of  haughtiness,  even  towards  their  husbands,  yet 
their  address,  affection,  and  general  discretion  are  seldom  equalled  in 
any  other  part  of  the  world.  The  women  of  the  lower  classes,  besides 
imitating  their  superiors  in  the  love  of  dress,  are  remarkably  cleanly, 
and  keep  their  houses  in  the  utmost  neatness.  They  are  naturally 
sprightly  in  their  dispositions,  and  fond  of  music  and  dancing.  The 
reigning  passions,  in  short,  of  the  fair  sex  in  this  city  are  show,  mirth, 
and  festivity ;  and  the  inhabitants  generally  are  distinguished  by  their 
vivacity,  intelligence,  and  agreeable  manners.'"* 

Both  sexes  smoke  tobacco,  for  which  they  excuse  themselves  by 
saying  that  it  is  to  guard  against  the  deleterious  effects  of  a  certain 
mist  and  drizzle  which  hangs  over  the  city  at  some  particular  seasons, 
and  Nvhich  is  called  Peruvian  dew.  The  Spaniards  in  Lima  are  all 
Creoles  ;  and  the  whole  population,  comprising  negroes,  Indians,  mes- 
tizoes, and  other  castes,  together  with  the  Spaniards,  has  been  variously 
estimated  at  from  fifty  to  seventy  thousand.  In  1824  there  were 
fifteen  thousand  slaves  in  the  city,  but  slavery  has  since  been  abolished. 

This  city  has  frequently  been  laid  in  ruins  by  earthquakes  ;  and  in 
1746,  when  Callao  was  destroyed,  not  more  than  twenty  houses  Avere 
left  standinjr  in  Lima,  out  of  more  than  three  thousand.  Since  the 
year  1582  more  than  twenty  earthquakes  have  occurred,  of  such  vio- 
lence as  to  occasion  more  or  less  damage  to  the  buildings,  and  destruc- 
tion of  lives. 

The  country  around  Lima  is  remarkably  fertile,  producing  all  kinds 
of  grain  and  fruits  in  the  greatest  abundance ;  and  the  fields  are  regu- 
larly irrigated  by  trenches  and  canals  arranged  for  the  purpose.     The 

*  Ediaburgh  Encyclopedia. 

0 


184  FORT  OF  CALLAO— QUILCA.  [1825. 

provisions  with  which  the  city  is  supplied  are  equally  abundant  and 
excellent. 

The  road  from  Lima  to  Callao  is  straight,  wide,  and  level ;  but  at 
this  time  untravelled,  being  occupied  by  the  besieging  army  of  patriots, 
who  had  possession  of  Bella  Vista,  a  dilapidated  town  about  two  miles 
from  the  port.  General  Rodil's  artillery  was  daily  playing  upon  the 
ruins  of  this  place,  and  no  doubt  assisted  m  completing  the  half-accom- 
plished devastation  of  time  and  earthquakes. 

Dec.  26tk. — Early  on  the  morning  of  my  arrival  in  the  port  of  Callao 
t^  star-spangled  banner  was  displayed  at  the  mast-head  of  the  Tartar, 
to  the  no  small  surprise  of  the  officers  ,of  the  United  States'  squadron, 
who  had  not  seen  us  enter ;  and  Commodore  Hull  soon  sent  an  officer 
on  board  to  inquire  our  character  and  business.  The  latter,  however, 
I  did  not  think  j)roper  to  communicate,  as  the  success  of  some  com- 
jnercial  speculations  depends  entirely  on  prudence  and  reserve ;  and 
though  a  ship-master  may  do  what  he  pleases  with  his  own  secrets,  he 
has  no  right  to  dispose  of  the  secrets  of  others.  In  a  subsequent  inter- 
view with  the  commodore  himself,  he  expressed  some  curiosity  on  the 
subject,  and  wondered  why  I  should  have  ventured  into  a  port  so 
closely  invested;  when,  if  I  escaped  the  blockading  squadron,  he 
thought  I  was  still  liable  to  become  the  victim  of  Rodil's  cupidity,  who 
was  already  straitened  for  provisions.  My  answer  was  evasive ;  but 
as  there  is  no  necessity  for  the  same  reserve  with  the  reader,  I  shall 
now  be  more  explicit.  I  knew,  from  information  that  I  had  received  at 
St.  Carlos,  that  there  were  individuals  in  Callao  who  belonged  to  Are- 
quipa,  an  Episcopal  town  on  the  River  Quilca,  about  two  himdred  and 
seventeen  leagues  south-east  of  Lima.  1  knew  likewise  that  thev  were 
anxious  to  return  home,  and  not  remain  shut  up  in  a  besieged  citadel, 
the  commandant  of  which  had  resolved  never  to  surrender,  but  to  hold 
out  till  death.  I  further  knew  that  their  escape  could  only  be  efl'ected 
in  a  swift-sailing  vessel  like  the  Tartar,  which  could  bid  defiance  to  the 
vigilance  of  the  blockading  squadron.  It  was  therefore  to  affi)rd  these 
people  an  opportimity  of  escaping  the  horrors  of  a  siege,  and  perhaps 
death  by  famine,  that  I  entered  the  port  of  Callao  on  Sunday  morning, 

the  16th  of  December,  1824. 

*  *  *-  *  *  **  *  # 

Jcui.  Isf,  1825. — After  frequent  interviews  with  General  Rodil  on 
the  subject,  I  obtained  -permission  to  take  away  nineteen  passengers, 
male  and  female,  belonging  to  the  city  of  A requipa,  with  whom  I  sailed 
on  New-year's  day,  1825,  for  the  port  of  (Quilca.  It  was  five,  P.  M., 
when  we  got  under  way,  with  a  line  breeze  liom  south-east-by-south, 
and  fair  weather.  We  continued  beatinir  to  windward,  standing  in- 
shore,  until  about  ten,  P.  M.,  when  we  took  the  wind  from  east-south- 
east, within  a  mile  of  the  shore  ;  tacked  ship,  and  stood  ofl-shore  until 
nine  or  ten,  A.  M.  The  wind  then  gradually  hauled  from  east-south- 
cast  to  south-east,  and  often  to  south-south-east,  when  we  would  tack 
again,  and  stand  in-shore.  In  this  manner  we  continued  to  take  ad- 
vantage of  the  wmd  imtil  we  arrived  at  our  destined  port. 

Jan.  8th. — On  Saturday,  the  8th  of  January,  we  arrived  in  safety  at 
the  port  of  Quilca,  and  anchored  on  the  bank  nearly  abreast  of  the 


Jan.]  PORT  OF  QUILCA—AREQUIPA.  185 

town,  fh  fourteen  fathoms  of  water,  mud  and  sandy  bottom.  Latitude 
16°  41'  S.,  long.  72°  58'  W.  Variation  per  azimuth  10°  27'  easterly. 
On  the  following  day  we  landed  our  passengers. 

The  town  or  village  of  Quilca  is  the  seaport  of  Arequipa,  a  fine 
inland  city,  situated  on  the  same  river,  about  twenty  leagues  from  the 
coast.  Quilca  is  a  small  place,  comprisiug  about  seventy-live  houses,  or 
rather  huts,  built  at  the  liead  of  a  small  cove,  about  two  miles  north- 
north-west  of  the  anchoraiie.  The  entrance  to  this  cove  is  narrow, 
and  between  two  blufi"  points  ;  at  the  head  of  it  the  landing  is  smooth, 
and  small  vessels  may  lie  here  with  perfect  safety,  moored  to  ring- 
bolts in  the  rocks,  on  each  side  tiie  basin.  The  houses  in  the  village 
are  generally  of  singidar  construction ;  being  built  with  reed  mats, 
and  covered  with  thatch.  »Some  of  them  are  surrounded  with  veran- 
das, and  covered  with  aflat  cane  roof;  without  chimneys  or  glazed 
windows,  and  the  doors  are  made  of  basket-work,  or  wicker. 

The  ground  about  the  town  is  coyered  with  a  white  dust  or  powder, 
supposed  to  have  been  thrown  out  of  the  volcano  of  Arequipa,  during 
some  of  its  dreadful  eruptions,  in  "  by-gone  years."  This  is  not  only 
very  unpleasant  to  the  eyes  of  strangers,  but  it  has  also  destroyed 
vegetation,  and  rendered  the  country  nearly  barren.  In  sailing  along 
this  part  of  the  coast,  the  volcano  of  Arequipa  presents  a  remarkable 
appearance,  that  of  a  smgle  sharp-pointed  peak,  rising  about  two  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

About  twenty  miles  to  the  south-east  of  Quilca  is  Aranta  road  ;  and 
to  the  north-vrest  is  the  village  of  Camana,  situated  in  an  extensive 
and  beautiful  valley.- 

About  live  miles  to  the  north-west  of  Camana  are  several  small 
■islands,  or  rocks,  called  tlie  Pescadores,  lying  near  tlie  shore.  On 
passing  thesR  islets,  v/e  must  give  the  bank  of  Camana , a  good  berth; 
and  immediately  afterward  we  suddenly  deepen  the  water.  We  then 
stand  in-shore,  keeping  the  land  close  on  board,  as  there  are  no  dan- 
gers, until  we  are  abreast  of  the  high  land  of  Quilca,  whpre  we  imme- 
diately anchor  abreast  of  a  small  valley,  in  from  twenty  to  twelve 
fathoms  of  water.  This  anchorage  is  open  to  the  seaward,  entirely 
unsheltered,  and  exposed  to  a  heavy  swell  which  rolls  in  from  the 
south-south-west.  The  shipping  are  seen  lying  at  anchor  as  we  ap-' 
proach  the  port. 

The  city  of  Arequipa,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  spelled,  Arequiba,  is  the 
capital  of  a  Peruvian  province  bearing  the  same  name.  It  is  situated 
about  twenty  leagues  from  the  coast,  in  the  delightful  and  fertile  valley 
of  Qudca,  on  the  margin  of  a  beautiful  river,  and  is  said  to  be  nearly 
eight  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  This  city  was  founded 
in  the  vear  1536,  by  the  celebrated  Francisco  Pizarro,  who  first  marked 
out  a  place  for  it  in  a  different  situation ;  but  repeated  earthquakes,, 
and  the  inconvenience  arising  from  its  being  too  near  a  terrible  vol- 
cano, induced  the  inhabitants  to  leave  it,  and  to  remove  to  tiieir  present 
site.  The  word  "  Arequipa'''  signifies,  in  the  Peruvian  language,  "  to 
remain"  and  the  district  was  thus  named,  because  the  troops  of  the 
inca  who  conquered  the  country  became  so  fond  of  it  that  they  en- 
treated their  leader  to  pennit  them  to  remain  there  for  the  rest  ot  their 


186  COAST  OF  PERU.  [1825. 

lives.  Tlie  inca  granted  their  request ;  and  in  commemoratioif  of  the 
event,  called  the  conquered  territory  by  the  name  of  Arequipa. 

Arequipa  is  a  large  well-built  city ;  the  houses  being  neatly  con- 
structed of  stone,  vaulted,  and  much  decorated  on  the  outside.  Among 
its  public  buildings  arc  a  cathedral,  a  college,  an  hospital,  three  nunne- 
ries, six  convents,  several  churches,  <fec.  &c.  In  the  centre  of  the 
great  square  there  is  an  elegant  fountain  of  bronze,  which  was  the 
usual  appendage  to  all  the  cities  which  Pizarro  founded.  There  is 
also  a  handsome  bridge  over  the  river.  This  city  is  subject  to  earth- 
quakes, and  lias  been  four  or  five  times  laid  in  ruins  by  that  dreadful 
scourge  of  South  America.  This  evil,  however,  seems  to  be  over- 
balanced by  the  mildness  of  the  climate,  and  the  fertility  of  the  coun- 
try round  about  it.  Behind  the  city  rise  three  lofty  mountains,  one  of 
Mhich  is  called  the  volcaro  of  Arequipa,  or  the  Peak  of  Miste,  being 
one  of  the  most  elevated  fiummits  of  the  Andes.  The  population  of 
this  place  has  been  variously  estimated  from  twenty-four  to  forty  thou- 
sand souls.  The  air  is  dry,  and  the  climate  mild  and  salubrious. 
Arequipa  is  in  latitude  16°  20'  S.,  long.  72°  17'  W. 

I  returned  to  Quilca  on  the  14th,  and  on  the  following  morning,  at 
eight,  A.  M.,  we  got  under  way,  and  again  directed  the  Tartar's  course 
to  the  north.  It  may  not  be  useless  to  mention  in  this  place,  that  the 
high  land  adjacent  forms  an  excellent  mark  to  designate  the  entrance 
to  Quilca,  which  lies  immediately  on  the  north-west  extremity  of  the 
high  bluff  shore  at  the  south-east  of  the  river's  ifiouth.  From  this 
place  to  Hay  harbour,  at  the  eastward,  the  land  is  high  and  abrupt, 
with  a  bold  shore,  clear  of  dangers. 

January  \^th. — We  left  Quilca  on  Saturday,  the  15th,  with  a  fine 
breeze  from  south-south-east,  and  fine  weather ;  and  on  Tuesday,  the 
18th,  at  six,  A.  M.,  we  were  close  in  with  the  island  of  St.  Martm, 
which  lies  directly  in  front  of  the  town  and  river  of  Huaura.  At  this 
island,  and  some  small  ones  in  its  vicinity,  we  found  a  few  hair-seals. 
These  islets  rise  immediately  out  of  the  sea,  with  steep  bold  shores ; 
and  the  coast  between  here  and  Callao  is  free  from  (gangers,  within 
half  a  mile  of  the  beach.  There  are  rnany  salt  ponds  and  pits  between 
Callao  and  Guarmey  River,  the  latter  being  in  latitude  10°  7'  south. 
You  may  anchor  under  the  south  point  of  this  port,  in  from  ten  to  five 
fathoms,  mud  and  sandy  bottom,  where  a  vessel  will  lie  tolerably 
smooth.  The  town  contains  about  two  hundred  houses  and  two 
churches,  and  is  a  fine  place  to  procure  refreshments  of  all  kinds. 
AVood  and  water,  of  a  good  quality,  may  be  had  here  with  little  trouble. 

January  20fh. — On  leaving  this  place,  we  continued  examining  the 
coast  to  the  north,  finding  many  small  rocky  islets,  most  of  which 
contained  hair-seals,  until  Thursday,  the  20th,  when  we  arrived  at 
Fort  Santa,  in  latitude  8°  56'  south.  A  little  to  the  south  of  the  town 
is  the  island  of  Santa,  behind  which  vessels  may  anchor,  and  lie  in 
perfect  safety,  in  from  ten  to  four  fathoms  of  water,  muddy  bottom, 
abreast  of  the  river  Santa,  where  fresh  water  may  easily  be  obtained, 
together  with  wood,  and  refreshments  of  almost  every  description,  at 
a  very  low  rate.  .. 

This  town  is  quite  populous,  and  the  inhabitants  appear  to  be 


Jan.]  CITY  OF  TRUXILLO.  187 

friendly  and  hospitable.  The  air  is  salubrious,  the  climate  raild,  and 
the  soil  productive.  The  shores  and  waters  abound  with  shell  and 
scale-fish  of  an  excellent  quality.  The  surrounding  country  is  said 
to  be  very  fertile,  the  plantations  producing  sugar,  wheat,  cocoa,  indigo, 
coffee,  maize,  olives,  vines,  fruits,  and  vegetables  in  abundance.  The 
natives  are  an  interesting,  friendly,  and  industrious  people.  The  inte- 
rior abounds  with  wild  animals,  and  the  forests  are  inhabited  and  visited 
by  a  great  variety  of  beautiful  birds. 

January  2\st. — On  Friday,  the  21st,  we  arrived  at  Guanchaco,  the 
seaport  of  Truxillo,  a  Peruvian  city  of  some  celebrity,  of  which  I 
^hall  speak  presently.  The  port  of  Guanchaco  is  six  or  eight  miles 
north-west  of  it,  in  latitude  8°  V  S.,  long.  78°  58'  W.  Variation  per 
azimuth  8°  57'  easterly. 

This  place  is  easily  knoun  by  the  bell  mountain  which  rises  in  the 
interior,  to  the  south  of  Truxiljo,  and  by  the  mountain  of  Malabrigo,  a 
little  to  the  north  of  Guanchaco,  which  descends  to  the  seashore. 
The  coast  between  this  place  and  Port  Santa  has  many  small  reefs 
and  sunken  rocks,  some  of  which  extend  nearly  two  miles  into  the 
sea;  and  from  Guanchaco  to  Callao  there  are  many  small  rocky 
islands,  lying  near  the  shore,  all  of  which  contain  hair-seals.  I  believe 
that  a  vessel  might  soon  collect  a  cargo  of  hair-seal  skins  from  the 
islands  and  rocks  along  this  coast,  were  she  to  come  in  the  proper 
seasons — namely,  when  they  visit  the  shore  to  breed,  and  when  they 
return  to  shed  their  coats. 

Truxillo  is  another  South  American  city  which  owes  its  origin  to 
the  Spanish  conqueror  of  Peru,  Francisco  Pizarro,  who  founded  it  in 
the  year  1535,  and  gave  it  the  name  of  his  native  city  in  old  Spain. 
It  stands  in  the  fertile  valley  of  Chimo,  on  the  north  side  of  the  river 
Moche,  about  two  miles  from  the  sea,  shut  in  by  two  majestic  moun- 
tains. The  city  is  surrounded  with  a  brick  wall,  and  the  houses  gen- 
erally are  constructed  of  the  same  material ;  embellished  with  stately 
balconies  and  superb  porticoes.  Few  of  them,  however,  exceed  one 
story  in  height,  on  account  of  those  terraneous  convulsions  to  which 
all  these  countries  are  more  or  less  subject. 

The  population  of  Truxillo,  including  Spaniards,  Indians,  mestizoes, 
mulattoes,  &c.,  is  estimated  at  about  eight  thousand  souls.  The  inhab- 
itants, generally,  in  their  character,  manners,  customs,  and  habits,  are 
much  like  those  of  Lima ;  the  women  are  as  handsome,  as  accom- 
plished, and  as  fond  of  dress ;  and  the  city  has  suffered  nearly  as 
m.uch  as  its  neighbour  by  the  prolonged  struggle  of  the  revolution. 

The  surrounding  country  is  picturesque  in  appearance,  and  prolific 
in  all  the  comforts  of  life.  The  fertile  plains  in  this  district  are  cov- 
ered with  sugar-canes  and  vineyards ;  wheat  and  different  kinds  of 
grain  have  been  cultivated  with  so  much  success  in  that  part  of  it 
near  the  Andes,  that  these  articles  are  exported  to  Panama,  on  the 
Isthmus  of  Darien.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  city  are  still  extant 
the  ruins  of  several  Peruvian  monuments  that  were  sacked  by  the 
earher  settlers.  The  waters  of  a  neighbouring  river  are  carried 
through  the  whole  of  this  delightful  country  by  canals  and  other  arti- 
ficial conveyances. 


I 


188    "    COAST  OF  COLOMBIA— MOUNT  CHIMBORAZO.  [1825. 

January  2Zd. — On  Sunday,  the  23d,  we  left  the  Malabrii^o  Islands, 
lying  about  nprth-west-by-west  from  Guancliaco,  distant  eight  leagues, 
and  steered  to  the  north-west,  with  a  light  breeze  from  the  south-east, 
and  fair  weather.  On  the  following  day  we  passed  Point  Aguja,  which 
projects  from  tlie  main,  in  latitude  5°  58'  S.,  long.  81°  1'  W.  The 
coast  to  the  south-east  of  the  cape  is  low,  until  we  come  to  the  hill  of 
Eton.  The  land  between  the  two  last-mentioned  places  forms  a  part 
of  the  Desert  of  Sechura.  After  passing  Cape  Blanco,  the  coast 
lends  to  the  north-east  to  the  river  Tumbez,  wliich  marks  the  boundary 
between  Peru  and  Colombia. 

January  26th. — Crossing  the  Gulf  of  Guayaquil,  we  continued 
standing  along  shore  to  the  north,  until  Monday,  the  24th,  when  we 
arrived  at  Sahingo  Bay,  at  six,  A.  M.,  and  after  examining  the  islands 
of  Peledo  and  Salango,  we  steered  for  Callo  Island.  We  found  no 
dangers  round  these  islands,  nor  any  tiling  else,  except  birds  and  hair- 
seals  ;  we  therefore  directed  our  course  for  the  Bay  of  Caraccas,  where 
we  arrived  on  AVednesday,  the  26tli,  and  anchored  near  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  clay  bottom ;  latitude  0°  31'  S., 
long.  80°  ir  W.     Variation  per  azimuth  8°  13'  easterly. 

In  entering  this  bay,  stricjt  attention  must  be  paid  to  the  lead,  as 
there  are  many  shoals  to  the  north  and  in  front  of  the  entrance ;  and 
there  are  some  also  on  the  south-west  side  of  the  bay.  The  water 
being  generally  smooth  here,  these  dangers  seldom  show  themselves 
on  the  surface,  and  therefore  render  the  greater  caution  necessary.  If 
it  be  the  navigator's  wish  to  anchor  near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  he 
will  approach  it  on  the  south-west  side,  where  he  may  anchor  within 
half  a  mile  of  it,  between  two  banks  that  are  nearly  dry  at  low  water. 
The  western  bank  will  completely  shelter  him  from  the  seaward,  and  he 
will  have  four  fothoms  of  water  at  low  tide,  with  sufficient  room  for 
•four  or  five  other  ships  to  lie  in  his  company,  with  perfect  safety. 

From  this  place  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  gigantic  Chimborazo, 
towering  in  awful  majesty,  v/ith  his  snow-crowned  summit  far  above 
the  clouds.  This  moimtain,  like  Mont  Blanc  of  the  Alps,  in  Savoy, 
Ibrms  the  extremity  of  a  colossal  group ;  for  in  the  ancient  kingdom 
of  Quito,  the  capital  of  which  is  nearly  due  east  of  our  anchorage, 
the  three  chains  of  ihe  Andes  are  intermingled  into  one  cluster,  com- 
prising no  less  than  sixteen  lofty  peaks,  many  of  which  are  living  vol- 
canoes. The  most  elevated  summits  are  ranged  in  two  files,  which 
in  some  measure  form  a  double  crest  to  the  Cordillera.  These  are 
literally  mountains  piled  upon  mountains,  for  the  highest  ridge  of  the 
Andes  forms  the  bottom  of  tlie  valleys  which  separate  these  volcanic 
peaks !  The  lowest  level  of  these  plateaus  is  still  eight  thousand 
four  hundred  feet  above  the  bosom  of  the  bay  on  which  the  Tartar 
was  now  riding  at  anchor  !  It  is  in  these  aerial  valleys,  or  on  these  lofty 
plateaus,  that  the  immense  population' of  this  wonderful  country  is 
concentrated ;  and  there,  too,  are  situated  towns  that  contain  from 
thirty  to  fifty  thousand  inhabitants. 

That  euterprismg  and  scientific  traveller  Humboldt,  who  has  thrown 
Toore  light  on  the  physical  geography  of  South  America  than  any 
©ther  writer,  expresses  himself  on  this  subject  m  the  following  terms : — 


Jan.]  VOLCANOES  OF  QUPTO.  180 

"  After  living  some  months  on  this  elevated  plateau,  where  the  barom- 
eter stands  at  21.33  inches  English,  the  traveller  experiences  an 
extraordinary  illusion.  He  gradually  forgets  that  every  surrounding 
object — those  villages  that  proclaim  the  industry  of  a  nation  of  moun- 
taineers ;  those  pastures,  covered  at  the  same  time  with  lamas,  and  with 
the  sheep  of  Europe ;  those  orchards  bordered  with  quickset  hedges 
of  the  Duranta  and  the  Barnadesia ;  those  luxuriant  and  liighly  culti- 
vated cornfields — occupy  a  station,  suspended^  as  it  were,  in  the  high 
regiohs  of  the  atmosphere ;  and  he  can  scarce  bring  iiimself  to  believe 
that  this  habitable  region  is  even  still  farther  elevated  above  the  neigh- 
bouring shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  tlian  the  Pyrenean  summit  of 
Canigou  is  above  the  basin  of  the  Mediterranean." 

The  majestic  Chimborazo,  says  Malte  Brun,  is  probably  nothing  but 
an  extinguished  volcano.  The  snow  which  for  centuries  has  crowned 
its  colossal  peak  v/ill  probably,  one  day  or  other,  be  melted  by  the 
remorseless  fires  pent  up  within  its  vast  and  fathomless  caverns  resum- 
ing their  destructive  activity.  But  one  of  the  greatest  volcanoes  on  the 
surface  of  the  whole  globe  is  much  nearer  the  city  of  Quito  than  is 
Chimborazo.  It  is  called  Pichinca,  and  rises  eleven  miles  south  of 
the  equator,  to  the  height  of  fifteen  thousand  nine  hundred  and  thirty- 
nine  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  as  measured  by  Humboldt. 

Three  rocky  peaks  rise  from  the  circumference  of  Pichirica's  crater,, 
as  if  shooting  up  from  the  abyss  below.  They  are  not  covered  with 
snow,  because  it  is  constantly  melted  by  the  vapours  that  exhale  from 
the  volcano.  "  In  order  the  better  to  examine  the  bottom  of  the  crat«r," 
says  Humboldt,  "we  lay  down  flat  on  our  breasts ;  and  I  do  not  be- 
lieve that  the  imagination  could  figure  to  itself  any  thing  more  melan- 
choly, gloomy,  and  terrific  than  what  we  now  beheld.  The  mouth 
of  the  volcano  forms  a  circular  hole  of  nearly  a  league  in  circumfer- 
ence, the  sides  of  which,  a  perpendicular  precipice,  are  covered  above 
with  snow  to  their  very  edge.  The  interior  v>as  of  a  deep  black ;  but 
the  gulf  is  so  immense  that  we  could  distinguish  the  tops  of  several 
mountains  that  are  situated  within  it.  Their  summits  appeared  to  be 
two  or  three  hundred  fathoms  (^toises)  below  us — judge  then  where 
must  be  their  base  !  I  myself  have  no  doubt  that  the  bottom  of  the 
crater  is  on  a  level  with  the  city  of  Qmto." 

But  the  most  formidable  volcano  of  all  this  group  is  that  of  Coto- 
paxi^  rising  to  nearly  eighteen  thousand  nine  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  ocean ;  as  its  eruptions  have  been  the  most  frequent  and 
the  most  destructive  of  any  in  South  America.  Its  last  was  in  the  year 
1803.  The  cinders  and  fragments  of  rocks  that  have  been  ejected  at 
different  limes  by  this  volcano  cover  the  neighbouring  valleys  to  an 
extent  of  several  square  leagues.  In  1758  the  flames  of  Cotopaxi  shot 
np  to  a  height  of  two  thousand  seven  hundred  feet  above  the  edge  of 
the  crater.  In  1744  the  roaring  of  this  volcano  was  heard  as  far  as 
Honda,  a  town  situated  on  the  river  Magdalena,  at  a  distance  of  two 
hundred  leagues.  On  the  4th  of  April,  in  the  year  1768,  the  quan- 
tity of  ashes  vomited  up  from  the  mouth  of  Cotopaxi  was  so  great  that 
in  the  towns  of  Hambato  and  Tacunga,  the  sky  continued  as  dark  as 
night  until  the  third  hour  after  midday.     The  eruption  which  took 


190  CARACGAS  BAY  AND  RIVER.  [1825. 

pla^e  in' the 'month  of  January,  1803,  was  preceded  by  a  frightful 
phenomenon — the  sudden  mehing  of  the  snows  that  covered  the 
mountain.  For  more  than  twenty  years  neither  smoke  nor  any  dis- 
tinguishable vapour  had  issued  from  the  crater ;  and  yet,  in  a  single 
night,  the  subterranean  fire  had  become  so  active,  that  at  sunrise  the 
external  walls  of  the  cone,  strongly  heated,  had  become  naked,  and 
had  acquired  the  black  colour  which  is  peculiar  to  vitrified  scoriae.  At 
the  port  of  Guayaquil,  fifty-two  leagues  in  a  straight  line  from  the  edge 
of  the  crater,  Humboldt  heard,  day  and  night,  the  roaring  of  this  vol- 
cano, like  repeated  discharges  of  artillery.* 

The  country  on  both  sides  of  Caraccas  bay  and  river  is  the  most 
beautiful  that  can  possibly  be  imagined.  The  soil  is  rich  and  fertile, 
producing  in  great  abundance  cocoa,  coffee,  rice,  Indian  corn,  tobacco, 
and  a  great  variety  of  excellent  fruits.  Among  other  valuable  woods 
are  laurel,  ebony,  cedar,  saffron,  cinnamon,  balsam,  and  oak.  All 
kinds  of  vegetables  are  plenty,  as  are  also  honey  and  wax.  This  is 
one  of  the  best  places  on  the  coast  to  procure  a  cargo  of  cocoa,  as  you 
may  depend  on  its  being  of  the  very  best  quality  that  grows  in  this 
country ;  whereas,  if  you  go  to  Guayaquil  to  procure  this  article,  you 
are  liable  to  be  imposed  upon  by  adulterations.  The  best  coffee  and 
wax  may  likewise  be  had  at  this  place,  and  at  a  much  lower  rate  than 
at  Guayaquil. 

Among  the  animal  productions  of  this  country  are  cattle,  horses, 
sheep,  goats,  hogs,  and  poultr)',  in  abundance.  The  forests  are  well 
tenanted  with  a  great  variety  of  wild  animals,  including  a  multitude 
of  birds  of  very  beautiful  plumage.  The  usual  temperature  of  the 
atmosphere  being  warm  and  moist,  brings  into  existence  innumerable 
swarms  of  insects  and  animals  of  a  noxious  kind.  But  the  period  of 
their  existence  is  not  very  protracted,  as  the  south-west  winds,  which 
generally  prevail  from  May  to  December  inclusive,  destroy  them  in 
great  numbprs.  In  the  height  of  the  wet  season,  the  alligators  and 
other  disagreeable  reptiles  spread  themselves  over  the  country,  and 
become  very  troublesome  to  the  natives  ;  but  in  the  fair-weather  season 
they  cause  very  little  annoyance. 

The  south-west  winds,  just  alluded  to,  commence  blowing  about 
noon,  and  continue  until  after  davlight  the  next  morning.  Durinsr 
those  months  of  the  year  in  which  these  winds  prevail,  the  atmosphere 
is  very  clear,  and  it  is  seldom  or  never  known  to  rain  ;  but  from  Janu- 
ary to  the  last  of  April  the  heat  is  very  oppressive,  accompanied  with 
frequent  and  heavy  falls  of  rain,  with  tremendous  thunder-storms,  and 
very  sharp  lightning. 

There  are  several  small  towns  situated  on  the  banks  of  this  river ; 
and  near  the  head  of  it  is  quite  a  populous  one,  called  Hipperhapper. 
The  country  beyond  this,  towards  the  Andes,  is  prolific  in  vegetable 
productions,  gold-dust,  manilla,  copal,  and  many  valuable  drugs. 

February  3c/. — Having  transacted  the  business  which  took  me  into 
Caraccas  Bay,  and  procured  some  necessary  refreshments  for  o\k 
cruise,  we  got  under  way  on  Saturday,  the  29th  of  January,  shaping 
our  course  for  Cocos  Island,  at  which  we  arrived  on  Thursday,  the 
3d  of  Februarv. 

*  Malte  Brun's  System  of  Geography,  vol.  ii.  p.  292. 


Feb.]  COCOS  ISL.VND.  191 

\ 


CHAPTER  V. 

Cocos  Island — Galapagos  Islands — Eraption  of  a  Volcano  on  Narborough  Island 
— Critical  Situation  of  the  Tartar — A  fruitless  Search  for  Gallego  and  other  ima- 
ginary Islands — Arrive  on  the  Coast  of  California — Island  of  Guadaloupe — 
Cerros  Island — Bay  of  St.  Francis — Near  to  our  native  Land,  and  yet  far  from 
it — The  Gulf  of  California  and  River  Colorado — A  new  Route  from  the  United 
States  to  the  Pacific  Ocean — Old  California — Cenezos  Island — Port  San  Diego 
in  New  California — Character  of  the  Inhabitants,  &c. 

Cocos  Island  is  situated  in  the  North  Pacific  Ocean,  about  one 
hundred  and  seventeen  leagues  west-south-west  of  the  Gulf  of  Panama, 
at  the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  and  one  hundred  and  forty  leagues  north-east 
of  the  Galapagos  Islands.  It  hes  in  latitude  5°  25'  N.,  long.  87^  0'  W. 
This  island  is  of  an  oblong  shape,  being  twelve  miles  in  length,  from 
north-east  to  south-west,  and  about  four  in  breadth.  Its  western  side 
is  veiy  much  elevated,  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  round  hill,  which 
can  be  seen  at  the  distance  of  more  than  thirty  miles.  Vancouver  says 
it  has  been  seen  from  the  south  at  the  distance  of  forty-six  mUes.  On 
the  eastern  side  the  surface  is  broken,  and  slopes  rather  abruptly  to- 
■\vards  the  sea ;  presentmg,  in  some  places,  bold  and  perpendicular 
cliffs. 

This  island,  and  the  islets  which  surround  it,  are  well  covered  with 
trees,  mostly  cocoanuts,  yielding  their  fruit  in  luxuriant  abundance. 
The  climate  is  temperate  and  salubrious,  and  from  the  great  variety 
of  vegetables  that  grow  in  abundance  close  to.  the  verge  of  high-water 
mark,  in  the  bays,  it  is  evident  that  neither  violent  storms  nor  heavy 
seas  are  frequent.  There  are  two  bays,  or  places  fit  for  anchorage ; 
the  one  near  to  the  north-east  end  of  the  island,  called  Chatham  Bay ; 
the  other,  to  which  we  gave  the  name  of  Byers's  Bay,  is  three  miles 
farther  to  the  westward. 

Chatham  Bay  is  well  sheltered  by  a  small  islet  that  lies  off  its  north- 
west point.  The  width  of  this  bay,  from  point  to  point  of  the  two 
islets  that  form  each  of  its  extremities,  is  about  one  mile,  bearmg  nearly 
south-east  and  north-west.  From  this  Une  to  the  head  or  bottom  of 
the  bay  the  distance  is  about  the  same.  The  soundings  in  this  bay 
are  from  fifty  to  twelve  fathoms ;  and  vessels  may  ride  very  snugly 
Avithin  less  than  half  a  mile  of  the  beach,  in  twenty  fathoms  of  water. 
In  a  less  depth,  however,  the  bottom  wifl  be  found  rocky. 

The  western  bay  is  somewhat  more  exposed,  its  soundings  are  not 
so  regidar,  nor  the  gTOund  so  good  for  anchorage,  though  tlie  depth 
of  water  varies  from  fifty  to  seven  fathoms.  The  shore  of  this  bay  is 
not  steep,  like  that  of  Chatham,  but  consists  of  a  beautiful  valley  and 
sandy  beach,  where  cocoanut-trees  grow  in  great  profusion,  and  where 
there  is  a  rivulet  of  pure  water  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  in  breadth, 
which  is  supplied  from  a  natural  basin  about  one  mile  from  the  shore. 


193  ^        VOLCANIC  ERUPTION.  [il25. 

This  bay  is  small,  but  veiy  convenient  for  vessels  I9  recruit  in ;  and^ 
as  safe  as  any  that  is  not^entirely  sheltered. 

Vessels  in  want  of  refreshments  can  here  supply  tliemselves  with 
pork  in  abundance,  for  the  trouble  of  shooting  the  .wild  hogs,  which 
have  multiplied  greatly  since  the  breed  was  first  left  here  by  Captain 
Colnett.  The  m  aters  in  the  bay^  and  round  the  shores  are  teeming 
with  fish  of  various  kinds.  Eels  are  also  abundant  and  large  ;  turtles 
are  numerous,  but  appear  shy  of  coming  to  land,  which  is  frequented 
by  astonishing  numbers  of  white  and  brown  rats,  and  land-crabs  of  a 
prodigious  size.  Sharks  are  said  to  assemble  round  this  island  in  large 
shoals,  to  feast  upon  the  more  diminutive  finny  tribes  that  abound 
here.  • 

The  best  course  for  those  who  wish  to  anchor  in  tlie  western  bay 
is  to  go  round  the  south-western  point  of  the  island,  hugging  that  point 
close  on  board ;  and  when  in  the  bay,  to  moor  head  and  stern.  The 
tide  rises  on  the  shores  of  this  island  twice  in  twenty-four  hours,  with- 
out any  apparent  current ;  the  night  tides  are  estimated  at  ten  feet, 
those  of  the  day  not  quite  so  much.  It  is  high-v/ater  two  hours  and 
ten  minutes  after  the  moon  passes  the  meridian. 

Fclruary  6th. — Having  examined  this  island  to  our  satisfaction,  and 
taken  on  board  a  plentiful  supply  of  cocoanuts,  we  sailed  for  the  Galla- 
pagos  Islands  on  Sunday,  the  sixth  of  February,  with  the  wind  from 
east-south-east,  attended  with  light  rain.  On  the  following  day  we 
took  the  wind  from  north-north-east,  with  much  rain ;  this  was  suc- 
ceeded bv  variable  winds  until  we  arrived  in  latitude  2°  0'  N.,  long. 
89^  0'  W.,  when  we  took  the  wind  from  south-east,  with  fair  weather. 

Fthruary  \Qth. — On  Thursday,  the  tenth,  at  six,  A.  M.,  we  arrived 
at  the  Gallapagos  Islands,  in  Banks's  Bay,  and  anchored  in  Albemarle 
Basin,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  sandy  bottom.  At  eight,  A.  M.,  the 
boats  were  sent  in  search  of  fur-seals  ;  but  soon  discovered  that  we 
had  reaped  the  harvest  in  the  previous  voyage  ;  for  there  were  very 
few  fur-seals  to  be  seen  around  the  islands.  In  a  few  davs  we  com- 
menced  gathering  terrapins,  or  elephant  tortoises. 

Fehruary  I4th. — On  Monday,  the  fourteenth,  at  two  o'clock,  A.  M-, 
while  the  sable  mantle  of  night  was  yet  spread  over  the  mighty  Pacific, 
shrouding  the  neighbouring  islands  from  our  view,  and  while  the  still- 
ness of  death  reigned  everywhere  around  us,  our  ears  were  suddenly 
assailed  by  a  somid  that  could  only  be  equalled  by  ten  thousand  thun- 
ders bursting  upon  the  air  at  once ;  while,  at  the  same  instant,  the 
whole  hemisphere  was  lighted  up  with  a  horrid  glare  that  might  have 
appalled  the  stoutest  heart!  I  soon  ascertained  that  one  of  the  volca- 
noes of  Narborough  Island,  Vhich  had  quietly  slept  for  the  last  ten 
years,  had  suddenly  broken  forth  with  accumulated  vengeance. 

The  sublimity,  the  majesty,  the  terrific  grandeur  of  this  scene  baffle 
description,  and  set  the  powers  of  language  at  defiance.  Had  the  fires 
of  Milton's  hell  burst  its  vault  of  adamant,  and  threatened  the  heavens 
with  conflagration,  his  description  of  the  incident  would  have  been  ap- 
propriate to  the  present  subject.  No  words  that  I  can  command  wDl 
give  the  reader  even  a  faint  idea  of  the  awful  splendour  of  the  grea!: 
realhy. 


Feb.f  VOLCANIC  ERt'PTIOX.  193 

«  Had  it  been  "  the  crack  of  doom"  that  aroused  them,  my  men  could 
not  have  been  sooner  on  deck,  where  they  stood  gazing  like  "  sheeted 
spectres,"  speechless  and  bewildered  with  astonishment  and  dismay. 
The  heavens  appeared  to  be  in  one  blaze  of  fire,  intermingled  with 
millions  of  falling  stars  and  meteors ;  while  the  flames  shot  upward 
from  the  peak  of  Narborough  to  the  height  of  at  least  two  thousand 
feet  in  the  air.  All  hands  soon  became  sensible  of  the  cause  of  the 
startUng  phenomenon,  and  on  recovering  from  their  first  panic  could 
contemplate  its  progress  with  some  degree  of  composure. 

But  the  most  splendid  and  interesting  scene  of  this  spectacle  was 
yet  to  be  exhibited.  At  about  half-past  four  o'clock,  A.  M.,  the  boil- 
ing contents  of  the  tremendous  caldron  had  swollen  to  the  brim,  and 
poured  over  the  edge  of  the  crater  in  a  cataract  of  liquid  fire.  A  river 
of  melted  lava  was  now  seen  rushing  down  the  side  of  the  mountain, 
pursuing  a  serpentine  course  to  the  sea,  a  distance  of  about  three  miles 
from  the  blazing  orifice  of  the  volcano.  This  dazzling  stream  de- 
scended in  a  gully,  one-fourth  of  a  mile  in  width,  presenting  the 
appearance  of  a  tremendous  torrent  of  melted  iron  running  from  the 
furnace.  Although  tlie  mountain  was  steep,  and  the  gully  capacious, 
the  flaming  river  could  not  descend  with  sufficient  rapidity  to  prevent 
its  overflowing  its  banks  in  certain  places,  and  forming  new  rivers,  which 
branched  out  in  almost  every  direction,  each  rushing  downward  as  if 
eager  to  cool  its  temperament  in  the  deep  caverns  of  the  neighbouring 
ocean.  The  demon  of  fire  seemed  rushing  to  the  embraces  of  Nep- 
tune ;  and  dreadful  indeed  was  the  uproar  occasioned  by  their  meet- 
ing. The  ocean  boiled,  and  roared,  and  bellowed,  as  if  a  civil  war 
had  broken  out  in  the  Tartarean  gulf. 

At  three,  A.  M.,  I  ascertained  the  temperature  of  the  water,  by 
Fahrenheit's  thermometer,  to  be  61°,  while  that  of  the  air  was  71°.  At 
eleven,  A.  M.,  the  air  was  113°,  and  the  water  100°,  the  eruption  still 
continuing  w^ith  unabated  fury.  The  Tartar's  anchorage  was  about 
ten  miles  to  the  northward  of  the  mountain,  and  the  heat  was  so  great 
that  the  melted  pitch  was  running  from  the  vessel's  seams,  and  the  tar 
dropping  from  the  rigging. 

In  order  to  give  the  reader  a  correct  idea  of  our  situation,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  remind  him  of  the  relative  position  of  these  two  islands. 
Albemarle  Island  is  the  most  extensive  of  the  whole  Gallapagos  group, 
being  about  ninety  miles  in  length  from  north  to  south,  narrow  and 
nearly  straight  on  its  eastern  shore  ;  but  on  the  western  side  it  hollows 
in  from  Christopher's  Point  on  the  south,  to  Cape  Berkley  on  the 
north ;  and  within  this  space  lies  the  island  of  Narborough,  its  eastern 
point  approaching  nearest  to  Albemarle.  The  Tartar  lay  in  a  cove  of 
Banks's  Bay,  on  the  western  shore  of  Albemarle,  directly  opposite  the 
north-east  point  of  Narborough  ;  and  this  cove  could  be  approached 
from  the  north-west  through  Banks's  Bay,  or  from  the  south-west 
through  Elizabeth  Bay. 

Our  situation  was  every  hour  becoming  more  critical  and  alarming. 
Not  a  breath  of  air  was  stirring  to  fill  a  sail,  had  we  attempted  to 
escape  ;  so  that  we  were  compelled  to  remain  idle  and  unwilling  spec- 
tators of  a  pyrotechnic  exhibition  which  evinced  no  indications  of  even 

N 


194  VOLCANIC  ERUPTION.  [1825. 

a  temporary'  suspension.  All  that  day  the  fires  continued  to  rage  with 
unabating  activity,  while  the  mountain  still  continued  to  belch  forth  its 
melted  entrails  in  an  unceasing  cataract. 

The  mercury  continued  to  rise  until  four,  P.  M.,  when  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  air  had  increased  to  123^,  and  that  of  the  water  to  105°.  Our 
respiration  now  became  difficult,  and  several  of  the  crew  complained 
of  extreme  faintness.  It  was  evident  that  something  must  be  done, 
and  that  promptly.  "  0  for  a  cap-full  of  wind  !"  was  the  prayer  of 
each.  The  breath  of  a  light  zephyr  from  the  continent,  scarcely  per- 
ceptible to  the  cheek,  was  at  length  announced  as  the  welcome  signal 
for  the  word,  "  All  hands,  unmoor  !"  This  was  a  little  before  eight, 
P.  INI.  The  anchor  was  soon  apeak,  and  every  inch  of  canvass  ex- 
tended along  the  spars,  where  it  hung  in  useless  drapery. 

All  was  again  suspense  and  anxious  expectation.  Again  the  zephyr 
breathed,  and  hope  revived.  At  length  it  was  announced  from  aloft 
that  the  lighter  canvass  began  to  feel  the  air ;  and  in  a  few  minutes 
more  the  topsails  began  gradually  to  fill,  when  the  anchor  was  brought 
to  the  bow,  and  the  Tartar  began  to  move.  At  eight  o'clock  we  Vv'ere 
wafted  along  by  a  fine  little  easterly  breeze,  for  which  we  felt  grateful 
to  Heaven. 

Our  course  lay  southward,  through  the  little  strait  or  sound  that 
separated  the  burning  mountain  from  Albemarle  Island  ;  my  object 
being  to  get  to  windward  of  Narborough  as  soon  as  possible.  It  is 
true  that  the  north-west  passage  from  Banks's  Bay,  by  Cape  Berkley, 
^vould  have  been  a  shorter  route  into  the  main  ocean ;  but  not  the 
safest,  under  existing  circumstances.  I  therefore  chose  to  nm  south, 
to  Elizabeth  Bay,  though  in  doing  so  we  had  to  pass  within  about  four 
miles  of  those  rivers  ol"  flaming  lava,  which  were  pouring  into  the  wa- 
ters of  the  bay.  Had  I  adopted  the  other  course,  and  passed  to  the 
leeward  of  Narborough,  we  might  have  got  clear  of  the  island,  but  it 
would  have  been  impossible  to  prevent  the  sails  and  rigging  taking- 
fire  ;  as  the  whole  atmosphere  on  the  lee  side  of  the  bay  appeared  to 
he  one  mass  of  flame.  The  deafening  sounds  accompanying  the 
eruption  still  continued ;  indeed  the  terrific  grandeur  of  the  scene 
^vould  have  been  incomplete  without  it. 

Hea%on  continued  to  favour  us  with  a  fine  breeze,  and  the  Tartar 
slid  along  through  the  almost  boiling  ocean  at  the  rate  of  about  seven 
miles  an  hour.  On  passing  the  currents  of  melted  lava,  I  became  ap- 
prehensive that  I  should  lose  some  of  my  men,  as  the  influence  of  the 
heat  was  so  great  that  several  of  them  were  incapable  of  standing. 
At  that  time  the  mercury  in  the  thermometer  was  at  147°  ;  but  on  im- 
mersing it  into  the  water,  h  instantly  rose  to  150^.  Had  the  wind 
deserted  us  here,  the  consequences  must  have  been  horrible.  But  the 
mercy  of  Providence  was  still  extended  towards  us — the  refreshing- 
breeze  still  urged  us  forward  towards  a  more  temperate  atmosphere ; 
so  that  at  eleven  P.  M.  we  were  safely  anchored  at  the  south  extremity 
of  the  bay,  while  the  flaming  Narborough  lay  fifteen  miles  to  the  lee- 
ward. 

Here  the  temperature  of  the  air  was   110^,  and  that  of  the  water 
102° ;  but  at  eight  o'clock  the  next  morning,  the  16th,  there  being  no 


March.]  FRUITLESS  SEARCH  FOR  ISLANDS.  195 

abatement  in  the  rage  of  the  vomiting  volcano,  the  heat  had  increased 
to  such  an  alarming  degree  that  we  found  it  necessary  again  to  get 
under  way,  and  abandon  the  bay  entirely.  At  twelve  meridian  we 
passed  the  south  point  of  Albemarle  Bay,  called  Christopher's  Point, 
at  which  time  I  found  the  mercury  at  122^  in  the  air,  and  at  98°  in 
J  he  water.  AV^e  now  steered  for  Charles's  Island,  which  lies  about 
forty  miles  south-east  of  Albemarle,  and  came  to  anchor  in  its  north- 
v.'est  harbour  at  eleven,  P.  M.  Fiflv  miles  and  more  to  the  leeward, 
in  the  north-west,  the  crater  of  Narborough  appeared  like  a  colossal 
beacon-light,  shooting  its  vengeful  flames  high  into  the  gloomy  atmo- 
sphere, with  a  rumbling  noise  like  distant  thunder. 

February  17 th. — Having  taken  on  board  two  hundred  and  ninety- 
four  terrapins,  that  would  average  about  twenty-five  pounds  each,  we 
got  under  way  on  Friday,  the  17th,  at  two  o'clock,  P.  M.,  and  com- 
jneiiccd  a  cruise  in  search  of  the  island  of  Gallego,  said  to  lie  in  lat. 
1^  42'  N.J  lOi^  5  AV.  After  cutting  the  ground  up  in  the  above- 
mentioned  parallel,  and  from  100^  to  110^  west,  I  was  convinced  that 
r.o  such  island  existed  within  many  leagues  of  the  situation  which  had 
been  assigned  to  it.  AVe  therefore  bore  up,  and  steered  for  two  clus- 
ters of  islands,  which  were  said  to  lie  in  lat.  16^  and  17°  N.,  and  in 
lonu-.  133°  and  136°  W.,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  east-somh-east,  and 
iair  weather.  Before  we  bore  up,  however,  we  tried  the  current,  and 
found  it  settinjr  about  west-north-west,  at  the  rate  of  two  and  a  half 
miles  an  hour.  The  sea  was  here  literally  covered  with  pumice-stone, 
some  pieces  of  Avhieh  were  quite  large,  supposed  to  have  been  ejected 
from  the  volcano  of  Narborough. 

March  8th. — We  continued  standing  to  the  north-west,  with  steady 
winds  from  east  to  east-south-east,  and  fair  weather  (experiencing  a 
s  iron  or  westerly  current,  which  set  from  one  and  a  half  to  three  knots 
per  hour),  until  Tuesday,  the  8th  of  jNIarch,  when  we  found  ourselves, 
by  astronomical  observations,  in  the  location  assigned  to  the  first-men- 
tioned island,  said  to  lie  in  lat.  16°  N.,  long.  133°  W. ;  but  discovered 
no  appearance  of  land.  AA'^e  then  shaped  our  course  for  that  which 
was  said  to  be  situated  in  lat.  17°  N.,  long.  136°  W.,  but  saw  no  indica- 
tions- of  land  whatever.  We  then  took  different  angles  between  the 
two  locations,  stretching  from  one  parallel  to  the  other,  until  we  were 
in  long.  138°  W.,  with  no  better  success. 

March  lAth, — On  ISIonday,  the  14th  of  3Iarch,  we  hauled  in  to  the 
north,  for  the  coast  of  California,  well  satisfied  that  any  farther  search 
for  the  islands  in  question  would  be  as  idle  a  waste  of  time  as  that 
which  v/e  had  spent  in  the  previous  voyage  in  looking  for  the  Auroras, 
I  could  not  refrain,  however,  from  recording  my  astonishment  and  re- 
gret that  ship-masters  should  ignorantly  or  wantonly  make  and  publish 
reports  of  discoveries  which  have  no  existence  in  reality. 

We  continued  standing  to  the  north,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  east  to 
east-south-east,  and  fair  weather,  until  Saturday,  the  19th;  when,  ia 
lat.  21°  1'  N.,  long.  130°  27'  W.,  the  wind  suddenly  shifted,  in  a 
sqtiall,  from  east  to  north-west.  AVe  then  stood  to  the  north-east,  and 
on  Sunday,  the  27th,  we  arrived  at  the  island  of  Guadaloupe,  in  lat. 
28°  56' N.,  long.  117°  41'  AV. 

N3 


1^6  COAST  OF  CALirORMA.  [1825 

March  27th. — This  islarul,  whicli  is  situated  about  one  liundred  and 
eighty  miles  from  the  sliore,  on  tlie  western  eoast  of  North  America^ 
in  the  same  latitude  as  New-Orleans,  is  about  twenty  miles  in  circum- 
ference, and  uninliabited.  From  unerring  indications,  tliere  is  no  doubt 
that  it  has  once  been  volcanic ;  it  is  veiy  barren  on  its  south  end,  but 
in  the  northern  part  there  are  several  fertile  valleys,  and  the  mountains 
contain  vegetation.  Wood  and  water  may  be  liad  here  from  a  small 
cove  on  tlie  norlh-east  side  of  the  island,  and  goat's  llcsh  may  be  ob- 
tained for  the  trouble  of  shoot inji  the  animal. 

The  island  is  high,  \\  ith  bhilT  shores  on  the  north  and  west  sides,  and 
may  be  seen  from  the  mast-head,  in  clear  weather,  at  the  distance  of 
fifteen  leagues.  The  shores  are  free  from  dangers  one-fourth  of  a 
mile  from  the  island.  The  only  anchorage  is  on  the  south-east  side, 
in  a  small  cove,  formed  by  a  few  rocky  islets  that  lie  ofl^  in  that  direc- 
tion. Here  vessels  may  anchor  in  seven  fathoms  of  water,  sheltered 
from  all  winds,  excepting  from  the  south-east  to  east-north-east,  which 
seldom  blow  here.  We  lay  here  three  days,  during  which  time  we 
took  a  number  of  iur-seals. 

April  2d. — On  Friday,  the  1st  of  April,  we  got  under  way,  and 
steered  for  Cerros  Island,  with  the  wind  from  north-north-west ;  and 
on  the  following  day,  at  six  o'clock,  A.  M.,  wc  were  close  in  with  its 
eastern  side.  At  seven  the  boats  Mere  sent  round  the  island,  and  re- 
turned without  finding  either  seals  or  sea-elephants. 

This  island,  as  it  is  called,  is  a  mere  pile  of  rocks,  of  volcani(^ 
origin — high  and  barren.  It  is  about  eight  miles  in  circumference,  and 
only  four  miles  from  the  western  shore  of  the  peninsula  of  Old  Cali- 
fornia, a  little  north  of  Ilermoso  Point.  The  passage  between  this 
point  and  the  island  is  clear  of  dangers,  giving  the  former  a  berth 
of  half  a  mile,  to  avoid  some  sunken  rocks  that  lie  about  that  distance 
off-shore,  in  a  north-north- west  direction. 

The  anchorage  on  the  east  side  of  the  island  is  in  lat.  27°  52'  N., 
long.  114°  37"  W.,  and  sheltered  from  the  i)rcvailing  winds,  which 
generally  blow  direct  along  shore.  From  the  1st  of  March  to  the  1st 
of  November  the  winds  blow  from  the  north-west,  attended  with  beau- 
tiful weather;  and  during  this  season  there  is  seldom  any  rain.  But 
from  November  to  March  the  winds  frequently  blow  with  violence 
from  the  south-east  and  south-south-west,  attended  with  torrents  of 
rain,  which  renders  the  navigation  of  this  coast  very  unpleasant  during 
the  winter  season.  In  the  summer  months  the  wind  sometimes  hauls 
round  to  the  south-east ;  but  it  is  always  very  light  at  that  season  of 
ihe  year. 

There  are  many  fine  fish  to  be  caught  around  this  island,  and  it  was 
formerly  a  great  resort  for  sea-elephants  and  fur-seals ;  but  it  now  ap- 
pears to  be  entirely  abandoned  by  these  animals.  A  few  aquatic  birds 
still  continue  to  visit  here  in  the  laying  and  incubation  season  ;  but  we 
saw  no  land-birds.  There  is  a  small  rocky  island  lying  ofl"  the  north- 
west side  of  Cerros,  about  two  miles'  distance ;  but  there  is  no  danger 
between  the  two  islands. 

April  6th. — On  Monday,  the  4ih,  we  took  a  slant  of  wind  from  tlie 
north-east,  off  the  land,  and  steered  for  St.  Francis's  Bay,  wliere  we 


April]  COAST  OF  CALIFORNIA.  I97 

arrived  on  Wednesday,  t!ie  6tli,  and  anchored  in  three  fiithoms  of 
water,  with  the  soinli  point  of  the  bay  bearing  south-south-east,  which 
completely  sheltered  us  from  all  winds.  About  eight  mdes  from  the 
anchorage,  in  the  direction  of  north-north-east,  is  the  town  and  mission 
of  Rosario,  to  whicii  place  tliere  is  a  good  road  from  the  head  of  this 
bay. 

For  the  first  time  during  our  present  voyage,  we  found  0)irselves 
moored  in  a  North  American  port,  within  four  hundred  leagues  of  the 
south-west  boundary  of  die  United  States,  and  yet  more  than  thirteen 
thousand  mUes  distant  from  it  by  water !  Near  to  our  native  laud, 
and  yet  far  from  it !  A  narrow  peninsula  only  divided  us  from  the 
Gulf  of  California,  once  celebrated  for  its  pearl-fisheries.  Although 
this  gulf  is  a  great  estuary,  or  arm  of  the  sea,  eight  hundred  miles  iu 
lengtli,  and  one  liundred  and  twenty  in  breadth  at  its  mouth,  running 
that  whole  distance  parallel  with  the, coast  on  the  Pacific,  and  some- 
times not  more  than  thirty  miles  from  it — still,  in  geographical  strict- 
ness, the  Gulf  of  California  is  only  the  continuation  of  the  river  Colo- 
rado, which  rises  in  the  same  mountains  that  give  source  to  the  Rio 
del  Norte,  M'hich  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  ;  to  the  Arkansas, 
which  pours  its  waters  into  the  Mississippi;  and  to  the  Columbia, 
which  empties  into  the  Pacific  Ocean,  from  the  Oregon  territory.  The 
sources  of  these  three  rivers  are  near  each  other,  which  fact  will,  at 
some  future  period,  prove  of  immense  importance  to  the  United  States. 
The  river  La  Platte  also  rises  in  the  same  region ;  which,  after  run- 
ning a  course  nearly  due  east,  falls  into  the  Missouri,  about  six  hun- 
dred miles  by  water,  above  the  junction  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Mis- 
sissippi, which  is  eighteen  miles  above  St.  Louis,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Mississippi,  the  principal  depot  for  the  immense  regions  drained  by 
those  numerous  riv'ers,  the  congregated  waters  of  which  are  here  col- 
lected into  one  great  stream. 

I  think  I  hazard  little  in  asserting,  that  long  before  another  century 
rolls  round,  the  principal  avenue  of  trade  between  the  United  States  and 
the  different  seaports  on  the  Pacific  Ocean  will  be  the  river  Colorado, 
as  connected  with  the  Gulf  of  California.  The  China  and  India  trade 
will,  of  course,  ultimately  flow  through  the  same  channel ;  which  will 
render  this  route  to  the  Pacific  far  more  eligible  than  that  of  the  river 
Columbia  can  ever  become.  'I'liis  prediction  might  be  warranted  on 
the  diflercnce  of  latitude  alone;  the  Culf  of  California  entering  the 
Pacific  in  hit.  23'^  N.,  while  the  mouth  of  Columbia  River  is  a  little 
farther  north  than  the  parallel  of  St.  John's,  New-Brunswick,  on  the 
Atlantic  coast.  The  mouth  of  the  Ciulf  of  California  is  nearly  on  the 
parallel  of  Havana,  in  the  island  of  (-)uba. 

In  the  language  of  the  late  scientific  William  Darby,  "  it  is  impos- 
sible to  view  a  map  of  North  America,  and  carefully  examine  the  course 
of  its  great  rivers,  without  appreciating  the  prodigious  commercial  and 
political  advantages  of  the  Colorado  route.  By  it  the  Pacific  Ocean 
is  entered  twenty-three  degrees  of  latitude  farther  south  than  by  the 
river  Columbia  \  and  by  the  former,  also,  the  ship-channel  is  much 
deeper  into  the  body  of  the  continent  than  by  tlie  latter.  An  approxi- 
mation towards  the  tropical  regions  ol"  Polynesia,  India,  and  China 


198  OLD  CALIFORMA.  [1825. 

decides  the  preference  in  favour  of  the  southern  route.  In  this  great 
line  of  civilized  intercourse,  St.  Louis,  in  the  United  States,  will,  we 
may  suppose,  assume  the  rank  of  an  immense  entrepot,  while  another 
must  arise  on  the  side  of  the  Paeilic." 

The  name  of  (California  has  been  given  to  so  mucli  of  the  western 
coast  of  North  America  as  lies  between  lat.  22°  52'  to  42*^  N.,  or 
through  nearly  twenty  degrees  of  latitude,  although  no  one  can  tell 
from  what  source  the  word  has  been  derived  ;  its  origin  and  etymology 
having  never  been  accurately  ascertained.  This  country  received  tlie^ 
appellation  of  California  when  lirst  vissited  by  Hernando  de  Grixalvoi.* 
who  was  acting  under  the  direction  of  Hernan  Cortes,  in  1534,  and 
has  retained  it  ever  since.  In  all  the  various  dialects  of  the  natives, 
no  trace  of  such  a  name  has  ever  been  discovered ;  and  though  some 
writers  have  had  recourse  to  conjecture,  and  suppose  that  the  term 
California  is  compounded  of  caUda  and/or;?<7;r,  a  hot  furnace,  and  was 
derived  from  the  sultriness  of  its  climate,  yet  it  does  not  appear  that 
any  of  the  Spanish  captains  ever  took  this  method  of  giving  names  to 
their  conquests.  Father  Venegas  is  rather  inclined  to  think  that  it 
owed  its  origin  to  some  accident ;  possibly  to  some  words  spoken  by 
the  natives,  and  misunderstood  by  the  Spaniards,  as  happened,  accord- 
ing to  a  very  learned  American,  in  the  naming  of  Peru. 

Be  this  as  it  may,  the  natives  of  the  country  distinguish  it  by 
110  general  denomination ;  although  each  tribe  has  a  name  and  lan- 
guage peculiar  to  itself.  The  Californians  of  tlie  peninsula  (which 
is  called  Old  California)  are  divided  into  three  distinct  nations,  whose 
languages  are  entirely  difierent  from  each  other.  The  Pericues  occupy 
the  south  end  of  the  peninsula ;  the  JMenquis  inhabit  the  centre ;  and 
the  Cochimies  are  on  the  north  part,  where  it  joins  to  the  main. 
Each  of  these  nations  is  subdivided  into  several  tribes  or  branches, 
distinguished  by  considerable  variations  in  their  dialect.  In  New 
California,  which  is  north  of  the  peninsula,  the  distinctions  are  still 
more  numerous  ;  and  it  has  been  asserted  by  one  of  the  Catholic  mis- 
sionaries, who  laboured  hard  and  zealously  in  converting  these  natives 
to  the  Christian  religion,  that  on  an  extent  of  one  hinidred  and  eighty 
leagues,  from  San  Diego  to  the  Bay  of  St.  Francisco,  no  fewer  than 
seventeen  languages  are  spoken ! 

The  condition,  character,  manners,  habits,  and  customs  of  the  native 
Californians  have  been  all  much  improved  since  a  knowledge  of  Chris- 
tianity was  introduced  among  them  by  the  Spanish  Jesuits,  and  espe- 
cially since  the  whole  country  has  been  annexed  to  the  ^Mexican  nation. 
The  arts  of  civilization  have  been  introduced  among  them  with  the 
most  salutary  effects.  Their  manners  have  become  softened,  many 
of  their  superstitious  ceremonies  have  been  abolished,  and  agriculture 
has  rapidly  increased.  White  settlements  are  now  springing  up  in 
both  Californias,  and  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  this  long-neglected 
and  much-depreciated  region  of  America  will  become  the  envy  of  its 
neighbours.  As  soon  as  its  resources  and  advantages  become  better 
known,  and  more  justly  estimated,  its  increase  and  prosperity  may 
challenge  a  competitor  in  the'same  parallel  of  latitude  on  the  western 
continent.     But  this  anticipated  state  of  renovation  and  prosperity 


April.]  OLD  CALIFORNIA.  199^ 

must  be  brought  about  by  foreigners :  it  will  never  be  effected  by  the 
natives. 

By  this  time  the  most  inexperienced  reader  must  be  aware  that  Old 
California  is  a  long  narrow  peninsula,  extending  nearly  north-west  an<^ 
south-east  tlirough  about  eleven  degrees  of  latitude,  and  perhaps  eight  of- 
longitude,  being  united  to  the  continent  at  its  north-west  extremity  by  a 
neck  of  land  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  in  width,  reaching  from  the- 
mouth  of  the  Colorado  river  to  a  bav  called  San  Diego.     A  chain  of 
mountains  ranges  through  the  whole  length  of  this  extensive  peninsula, 
the  most  elevated  peak  of  which  rises  to  nearly  live  thousand  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.     The  width  of  this  peninsula  varies  from 
thirty  to  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles.     It  is  said  to  comprise  fifty-six 
thousand  square  miles ;  viz.  eight  hundred  in  length  by  an  average  of 
seventy  in  breadth.     The  population,  however,  is  only  estimated  at  a 
little  over  ten  thousand.     Wherever  fresh  water  is  found  the  soil  is 
excellent ;  and  vines  grow  spontaneously  in  the  mountains.     It  is  said 
that  the  Jesuits,  when  they  resided  here,  made  abundance  of  wine, 
which  in  taste  was  much  like  Madeira.     Among  the  mountains  are 
interspersed  several  fertile  valleys  of  good  soil ;  and  some  of  the  plains, 
particularly  in  the  vicinity  of  the  coast,  are  well  adapted  both  for  pas- 
turage and  tillage,  and  are  now  in  a  fair  way  to  become  greatly  im- 
proved by  cultivation. 

The  Bay  of  St.  Francis,  in  which  we  now  lay  at  anchor,  is  in  the 
northern  division  of  the  peninsula,  being  in  latitude  30°  20'  N.  The 
surrounding  country  abounds  with  excellent  grazing-meadows,  which 
are  thickly  stocked  with  wild  cattle,  deer,  gray  foxes,  &;c.  Here  also 
are  found  many  different  kinds  of  birds,  but  very  few  that  are  remark- 
able for  beauty  of  plumage  or  sweetness  of  song.  In  this  bay  vessels 
may  procure  cattle,  sheep,  deer,  hogs,  potatoes,  and  vegetables  of  va- 
rious kinds,  at  the  most  moderate  prices.  But  it  is  difficult  to  obtain 
fresh  water  or  wood  at  this  place.  The  banks  in  this  bay  are  fre- 
quently visited  by  sea-leopards,  but  they  are  very  wild ;  the  sea-otter 
likewise  is  sometimes  taken  by  the  natives,  but  they  have  become  quite 
scarce,  and  I  believe  the  race  is  nearly  extirpated. 

There  are  many  kinds  of  scale-fish  at  the  head  of  this  bay,  which 
may  be  caught  with  a  small  seine  in  great  abundance ;  among  them 
are  very  large  mullets,  which  average  three  pounds  apiece.  The 
neighbouring  country  abounds  with  rattlesnakes  of  an  enormous  size. 
During  an  excursion  of  five  miles  into  the  interior  I  have  seen  more 
than  two  hundred  of  diese  reptiles,  and  killed  some  that  were  six  feet 
in  length  and  twelve  inches  in  circumference. 

Vessels  intending  to  enter  this  port  must  steer  for  the  south-west 
point  of  the  bay,  which  opens  to  the  south.  This  point  is  in  latitude 
30°  20'  N.,  long.  115°  14'  W. ;  and  when  you  are  within  two  miles  of 
its  southern  extremity,  steer  nortii-north-east  until  the  point  bears  west- 
north-west,  when  you  may  haul  north-north-west ;  or,  if  the  wind  is  out 
of  the  bay,  you  may  make  short  tacks,  taking  care  not  to  stretch  under 
the  east  shore  in  less  than  five  fathoms  of  water,  from  which  it  shallows 
very  suddenly.  In  approaching  the  west  shore,  you  may  stand  within 
a  cable's  length  of  the  beach,  after  the  point  bears  west,  and  choose 


200  NEW  CALIFORNIA.  [1825. 

your  anchorage  in  from  seven  to  three  fathoms,  muddy  bottom.  Tliere 
is  a  sand  and  rocky  bank  running  off  the  soutli-west  point,  in  a  south- 
south-west  direction,  with  four  feet  of  water  on  it  at  low  ebb.  The 
tide  rises  here  about  nine  feet  on  the  neap,  and  eleven  feet  on  the 
spring  tides. 

April  Sth. — We  remained  in  this  bay  until  Friday,  tlie  8th,  when  we 
got  under  way  at  four,  A.  M.,  and  steered  for  port  St.  Diego,  lor  the 
purpose  of  building  a  whale-boat.  At  ten,  A.  M.,  we  landed  on  Cenizas 
Island,  in  search  of  fur-seals.  Here  we  found  about  eight  hundred  sea- 
elephants  on  a  beach  at  the  east  side  of  the  island ;  and  on  the  north 
and  west  sides  there  were  about  four  hundred  sea-leopards.  The  ele- 
phants were  very  tame,  but  the  leopards  were  extremely  wild,  and 
difficult  to  approach. 

Cenizas  Island  is  about  five  miles  in  circumference  ;  lies  eighteen 
miles  from  the  south-west  point  of  St.  Francisco,  on  a  north-north-west 
course,  and  is  three  miles  west  from  the  mainland.  It  is  of  volcanic 
origin,  and  is  entirely  barren :  the  rocks  have  been  melted, into  a  com- 
plete lava,  and  the  lowland  is  covered  with  pumice-stone.  There  is 
a  reef  lying  off  the  north-east  end  of  the  island,  about  two  miles,  and 
another  off  the  north-west  part,  at  nearly  the  same  distance.  The 
coast  from  this  to  Point  or  Morro  Hermoso,  a  distance  of  fifty 
leagues  south-east,  is  bold,  and  clear  of  dangers  two  miles  from  the 
shore.  The  soundings  are  regular,  gradually  shallowing  as  you  ap- 
proach the  land. 

We  now  continued  plying  to  the  northward,  with  the  wind,  between 
the  hours  of  ten,  A.M.,  and  seven,  P.  M.,  from  norlh-nordi-west  to  west- 
nortU-west ;  and  between  the  hours  of  nine  in  the  evening  and  six  or 
seven  the  next  morning,  the  wind  blew  from  north-north-west  to  north- 
nortli  east.  By  taking  advantage  of  the  land  and  sea-breezes  a  ship 
will  here  work  to  windward  very  rapidly. 

April  llth. — We  arrived  at  the  port  of  St.  Diego  on  Monday,  the 
1 1th  of  April,  and  anchored  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  with  the  fort  on 
the  west  side  of  the  bay  bearing  south-west,  distance  one  mile.  In 
this  situation  we  were  completely  landlocked,  in  as  fine  a  bay  for  ves- 
sels under  three  hundred  tons  as  was  ever  formed  by  Nature  in  her  most 
friendly  mood  to  mariners. 

The  port  of  San  Diego  is  in  latitude  32^  .39'  N.,  long.  116°  51'  W. : 
and  a  line  drawn  from  this  port,  due  east,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado 
river,  would  divide  the  peninsula  from  New  California.  This  commo- 
dious and  spacious  harbour  was  first  discovered  by  Sebastian  Viscaino, 
in  the  year  1603,  who  also  discovered  another  three  hundred  miles 
farther  north,  which  he  named  Monterey,  and  which  subsequently  be- 
came the  principal  settlement  of  the  Spaniards  in  this  country.  The 
first  mission  founded  m  New  California  was  at  this  port  in  1769. 

Although  Viscaino  described  New  Cahfornia  in  the  most  favourable 
colours,  as  to  fertility  of  soil  and  salubrity  of  climate,  the  Spaniards 
still  continued  to  neglect  it, — clinging  round  the  rude,  steril  peninsula 
for  the  sake  of  the  pearls,  and  the  mines  which  had  been  discovered 
on  the  mainland  across  the  gulf.  For  nearly  a  century  and  a  half 
they  w'ere  thus  wasting  tlieir  strength  and  treasure  in  attempting  to 


April]  TOWN  OF  8 AN  DIEGO.  201 

convert  and  civilize  a  barren  and  ungrateful  country,  while  New  Cali- 
fornia, a  fine  populous  region,  but  a  few  leagues  farther  nortli,  was 
suffered  to  remain  unexplored,  and  almost  unvisited.  This  beautiful 
territory,  which  would  have  most  amply  repaid  all  their  exertions  if 
properly  colonized,  was  not  occupied  by  the  Spaniards  until  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty-seven  years  after  its  discovery. 

The  town  of  San  Diego  is  four  miles  from  the  landing  at  the  fort,  in 
a  north-cast  direction.  lis  form  is  nearlv  circular,  and  it  is  surrounded 
by  a  wall  about  twenty  feet  in  height,  which  forms  the  back  sides  of 
the  houses,  the  latter  being  erected  against  it,  and  fronting  inwardl}'. 
There  are  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  houses  erected  in  this  manner, 
from  one  to  two  stories  high,  built  of  freestone,  and  neatly  finished. 
There  is  also  a  large  church,  one  nunnery,  and  a  very  neat  little  court- 
house. This  town  contains  about  1500  inhabitants,  principally  natives 
of  the  coast,  and  they  appear  to  be  a  very  agreeable,  friendly  kind 
of  people,  but  not  quite  so  cleanly  and  industrious  as  could  be  wished. 
Their  principal  employment  is  attending  herds  of  cattle,  and  cultivating 
some  small  patches  of  earth,  wliich  produce  wheat,  vegetables,  Szc. 
They  are  much  addicted  to  such  amusements  as  are  common  to  all  the 
Spanish  settlements  on  the  western  coast  of  America,  from  California 
to  Chiloe,  viz.  horse-racino-.  cock-fighting,  and  bull-baiting,  which  are 
enjoyed  with  equal  zest  by  both  sexes.  In  equestrian  exercises  they 
are  but  little  inferior  to  the  Chilotes ;  and  will  break  a  wild  horse,  so 
that  he  will  become  perfectly  tractable,  by  only  once  riding  him  :  they 
are  also  ver}^  expert  in  the  use  of  the  lasso,  with  which  they  catch  the 
wild  cattle ;  and  their  hunting  excursions  in  the  mountains  are  replete 
with  interest  aad  excitement  to  the  lovers  of  field-sports. 

The  females  have  generally  fine  forms,  and  expressive  countenances. 
Their  eyes  are  dark  and  sparkling,  and  they  dress  their  long  black 
hair  in  a  verv  tasteiul  and  becominsf  manner,  with  folds  and  braids. 
Their  hands  and  feet  are  remarkably  small,  and  they  generally  display 
an  extremely  delicate  ankle.  They  also  delight  in  equestrian  exer- 
cises, and  usually  honour  each  side  of  the  horse  with  a  beautiful  little 
foot  and  ankle.  Their  evenings  are  commonly  passed  in  small  cote- 
ries, or  parties  of  both  sexes,  where  they  amuse  themselves  and  each 
other  with  singing,  playing  the  guitar,  dancing,  &:c.  Their  favourite 
dance  is  the  Spanish  fandango. 

April  22d. — On  the  day  after  our  arrival  in  the  port  of  San  Diego, 
we  landed  tlie  materials,  forge,  Slc,  and  commenced  the  building  of  a 
new  whale-boat,  of-  which  we  stood  very  much  in  need.  This  task 
employed  our  carpenter  and  men  eleven  days,  M'hich  gave  myself  and 
officers  an  ample  opportunity  of  examining  tlic  town,  and  forming  ac- 
quaintances among  the  inhabitants,  who  treated  us  with  the  greatest 
hospitality  and  most  polite  attention.  We  regularly  attended  their 
favourite  amusements  and  evening  parties,  several  of  which  were  pro- 
jected expressly  on  our  account,  llorses  were  always  at  our  service, 
which  aft'orded  us  several  deliglitful  rural  excursions,  one  of  which  will 
furnish  an  incident  for  tiie  next  ciiapter. 

The  passage  into  this  beautiful  l)ay  is  plain,  easy,  and  safe.  There 
is  a  flat  on  the  east  sliorc  ofilic  eutrance,  wliich  runs  oft'  to  the  west- 


202  A  HUNTING  EXCURSION.  [1825, 

ward  about  one  mile,  covered  at  low  water  to  the  depth  of  about  three 
feet.  There  is  also  a  small  saiul-bank  running  off  I'rom  the  south- 
west point,  or  Point  Lonia,  to  tlie  distance  of  about  one  hundred 
fathoms,  on  which  the  water  is  shoal.  After  passing  this  point,  which 
f  is  liigh  and  bluff,  you  steer  for  the  flag-staff  on  the  fort,  which  will 
bear  norih'-by-w'est ;  in  which  course  you  will  have  three  fathoms  of 
water,  sandy  bottom,  when  within  one  hundred  fathoms  of  the  point 
on  which  tiie  fort  stands.  'I'his  point  may  be  doubled  at  that  distance, 
and  after  passhig  it  you  may  haul  in  to  the  westward,  and  choose 
your  anchorage  in  from  Jive  to  three  fathoms,  clay  bottom.  Point 
Loma  is  in  lat.  32°  36'  N.,  loi  g.  116°  48'  W.  The  centre  of  the 
state  of  Georgia  lies  in  the  same  parallel,  and  the  climates  are  very 
similar. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

A  hunting  Excursion — The  Party  attacked  by  a  hostile  Tribe  of  Indians — A  des- 
perate Battle — Victory  doubtful — The  Savages  defeated — A  safe  Return  to  St. 
Diego — Sail  to  the  North — Arrive  at  Monterey — Mission  of  San  Carlos  and 
San  Antonio — Mutiny  on  board  the  Asia  sixty-four — Farallone  Islands — Port  St. 
Francisco — Description  of  the  Country  and  Inhabitants — Mission  of  St.  Clara 
— Cape  Blanco  in  the  Oregon  Territory — Change  our  Course  to  the  South — 
Island  of  Socorro — Steer  for  the  West — Sandwich  Islands. 

O.v  Monda5%  the  18th  of  April,  agreeably  to  previous  arrangements, 
I  joined  a  hunting  party,  consisting  of  seven  well  mounted  horsemen, 
armed  with  long  muskets,  broadswords,  and  lassos.  I  was  also 
armed  in  the  same  manner,  with  the  exception  of  the  lasso,  which 
would  have  been  of  little  use  in  my  unpractised  hand.  The  party 
complimented  me  with  a  well  accoutred  horse,  as  fine  high-spirited  aii 
animal  as  ever  I  had  under  me ;  and  at  three  o'clock  m  the  morning 
we  were  all  mounted,  Avith  a  plentiful  supply  of  provisions  and  ammu- 
nition for  the  projected  cruise,  light  hearts,  and  a  keen  relish  for  the 
anticipated  sport. 

On  leaving  the  town  of  San  Diego,  we  took  a  course  nearly  due 
east ;  and  long  before  sunrise  had  penetrated  many  miles  into  the 
country.  At  half-past  live  o'clock,  we  first  saw  the  golden  luminaiy 
peering  through  a  volume  of  blue  mist  that  was  slowly  ascending  from 
the  distant  range  of  mountains.  This  was  soon  dissipated  by  the 
increasing  warmth  of  the  sun,  until  at  length  that  purity  of  atmosphere 
and  serenity  of  sky  mentioned  by  Humboldt  as  peculiar  to  Cali- 
fornia, were  witnessed  and  enjoyed  by  our  party.  At  seven  we  halted 
near  a  stream  of  clear  running  water,  and  made  a  hearty  breakfast  of 
such  materials  as  we  had  brought  with  us  for  the  purpose  ;  and  at  nine 
we  estimated  our  distance  from  the  coast  to  be  about  forty  miles. 

The  face  of  the  country  now  began  to  assume  a  more  rugged  ap- 
pearance, and  from  several  eminences  which  we  ascended  we  caught 
glimpses  of  the  broad  Pacific  in  the  distant  western  horizon.     Hitherto 


April.]  ATTACKED  BY  L\DIANS.  203 

we  had  seen  no  game  worthy  the  expense  of  ammunition,  and  our 
intended  hunting  ground  was  yet  many  miles  distant.  One  of  my 
companions  had  succeeded  in  taking  a  wild  cat  with  his  lasso,  and 
after  securing  the  skin  left  the  carcass  for  the  bears  to  dine  on,  with 
which  he  said  the  neighbouring  woods  abounded. 

By  the  hour  of  noon,  we  had  shot  and  taken  a  variety  of  game, 
among  which  were  hares,  rabbits,  and  partridges ;  and  as  our  horses 
now  required  rest  and  refreshment  as  well  as  their  riders,  we  gave 
them  an  hour  to  graze  in  a  beautiful  litde  valley  which  the  opening 
spring  had  just  covered  wiiii  a  velvet  carpet  of  green.  On  the  side 
of  a  mountain  at  a  short  distance  we  saw  several  flocks  of  deer  brows- 
ing, and  among  them  some  stags  of  an  immense  size.  But  they  took 
to  liighi  before  we  could  approach  within  musket-shot,  and  disappeared 
m  the  forest. 

Just  as  we  had  finished  our  midday  repast,  and  were  collecting  our 
liorses  together,  a  rustling  in  a  neighbouring  thicket  arrested  my  at- 
tention, and  in  the  next  instant  a  stag  darted  forth,  and  rushed  across 
tlie  valley  directly  towards  our  party.  Fright  must  have  deprived 
him  of  his  usual  quick-sightedness,  for  it  was  evident  he  did  not  per- 
ceive the  new  danger  into  which  he  was  plunging  headlong.  One  of 
my  Californian  friends  threw  his  lasso  just  as  I  touched  the  trig- 
ger of  my  musket.  The  animal  leaped  high  in  the  air,  and  fell  dead 
on  the  spot.  The  ball  had  entered  his  forehead,  and  his  huge  branch- 
ing antlers  were  completely  entangled  in  the  lasso,  at  the  same  moment. 

The  hero  of  the  lasso  sprang  from  his  horse,  and  while  disentan- 
gling his  successful  instnnnent,  he  good-humouredly  observed  that  we 
must  decide  our  right  to  the  noble  animal  by  a  game  at  billiards.  Just 
as  I  was  signifying  my  assent  to  the  proposition,  a  whizzing  sound 
passed  my  ear,  and  the  Californian  exclaimed  that  he  was  woimded. 
An  Indian  arrow  from  the  thicket  had  pierced  his  arm. 

"  An  Apacherian  !  an  Apacherian  !"  exclaimed  every  voice  at  once, 
as  each  man  sprang  upon  his  steed,  and  the  whole  party  rushed 
into  the  thicket  in  search  of  the  ambushed  enemy.  Nothing,  however, 
was  to  be  seen,  until  we  had  gained  the  summit  of  a  little  eminence 
on  the  south,  when  we  discovered  three  Indians  on  horseback,  riding 
in  a  south-eastern  direction  in  a  very  deliberate  manner.  My  wounded 
friend  clapped  spurs  to  his  horse,  and  fired  at  the  same  time  without 
success.  We  all  joined  in  the  pursuit,  determined  to  chastise  the  as- 
sailants at  all  hazards.  On  seeing  our  purpose,  they  gave  a  horrid 
yell,  and  put  their  horses  at  full  speed.  This  of  course  excited  greater 
ardour  in  the  pursuit,  and  for  the  first  time  that  day  did  my  fiery 
charger  feel  the  spur.  The  hint  was  sufiicient — he  outflew  the  wind, 
and  I  should  have  soon  overtaken  the  fugitives,  but  was  aware  of  the 
imprudence  of  doing  so.  I  therefore  so  far  checked  my  steed  as  to 
keep  only  about  fifty  yards  in  tront  of  our  party. 

The  south  extremity  of  a  blufi'  ridge,  terminating  in  a  rocky  preci- 
pice, was  soon  to  conceal  the  retreating  savages  from  our  view ; 
and  before  passing  it  they  had  the  audacity  to  wheel,  and  discharge- 
their  arrows  in  our  faces.  The  next  moment  they  were  invisible. 
One  of  their  arrows  only  took  effect,  piercing  my  bridle-arm  just  above 


204  A  DESPERATE  BATTLE.  [1825. 

the  elbow.  It  was  a  mere  scratch,  but  it  had  considerable  effect  in 
whetting  my  appetite  lor  revenge.  We  doubled  the  precipice  just  men- 
tioned, and  instead  of  three,  more  than  lifiy  mounted  savages  were  par- 
aded before  us,  each  with  his  arrow  notched  and  presented.  This  was 
unexpected,  and  for  a  moment  my  party  gazed  at  each  other  in  speech- 
less dismay. 

'  My  wounded  companion,  who  had  reloaded  his  musket  during  the 
pursuit,  was  the  lirst  to  break  silence,  by  exclaiming,  "  Un  trampa  !  un 
emboscado  !  senor  capitan  !'' 

I  asked  him  if  he  could  point  out  the  chief  of  this  wandering  horde 
of  half-naked  freebooters.  He  directed  my  attention  to  one  of  supe- 
rior stature  and  muscle,  with  something  hitended  for  an  ornament  hang- 
ing on  his  breast.  As  this  individual  appeared  to  be  the  leader  of  the 
party,  I  kei)t  my  eye  on  him.  He  took  care,  however,  not  to  keep 
us  long  in  suspense,  but  addressed  me  in  a  commanding  tone,  accom- 
panied by  gestures  that  I  could  not  misunderstand. 

"  I  can  understand  his  jargon,"  said  the  wounded  Californian,  who 
kept  close  to  my  side.  "  He  addresses  you  as  our  chief,  and  demands 
a  surrender  of  our  weapons." 

"  We  will  perish  lirst !"  I  replied.  "  But  let  us  be  politic.  Demand 
honourable  terms  of  capitulation,  and  gain  us  a  moment's  time  for 
reflection." 

^ly  companion  did  as  I  desired,  in  the  savage's  own  dialect ;  and 
tlie  answer  was  unconditional  submission,  or  instant  death.  If  we 
complied  our  lives  should  be  spared.  Should  we  resist,  no  quarter 
would  be  given.  Having  heard  much  of  the  treachery  of  this  tribe,  I 
resolved  to  place  no  confidence  in  the  promises  of  their  chief;  but 
told  my  companions  that  we  might  belter  perish  like  men,  with  arms 
ill  our  hands,  than  fall  like  cowards,  by  our  own  weapons,  as  we 
sliould  be  certain  to  do  if  we  gave  them  up ;  that  oin*  first  jnovement 
must  be  a  desperate  one ;  and  that  each  man  must  bear  in  mind  that 
he  was  contending  for  life  and  liberty.  I  then  desired  our  interpreter 
to  amuse  the  Indians  by  pretending  to  comply  with  their  demand, 
while  the  party  dismounted,  to  put  the  savages  off  their  guard,  and 
induce  them  to  dismount  also ;  at  the  same  time  directing  each  of  my 
companions  to  single  out  his  man,  and  to  fire  the  moment  he  heard  mj' 
musket ;  then  to  spring  again  into  their  saddles,  and  attack  the  enemy 
sword  in  hand,  until  thCy  were  willing  to  let  us  retreat  without 
molestation. 

IMy  plan  was  unanimously  approved,  and  instantly  adopted.  As 
soon  as  my  party  left  their  saddles,  the  Indians  dismounted  to  a  man, 
and  stood  waiting  tiie  orders  of  their  chief,  the  parties  being  within 
pistol-shot  of  each  other.  I  was  the  last  to  make  a  motion  of  dis- 
mounting, which  I  did  in  such  an  awkward  and  clumsy  manner  as 
drew  a  laugh  of  derision  from  the  savages,  and  brought  my  eye  to 
range  along  the  barrel  of  my  musket,  whicli  lay  along  the  horse's  neck, 
pointing  to  the  ornament  on  the  bosom  of  the  colossal  chief  in  front 
of  me. 

The  report  of  seven  muskets  besides  my  own  brought  every  man 


April.]  THE  INDIANS  DEFEATED.  205 

again  to  the  saddle,  and  we  charged  the  astonished  foe  with  such 
resistless  fury  as  bore  down  all  before  us.  Seven  Indians,  besides  the 
chief,  fell  by  our  muskets ;  and  the  new  leader  who  now  assumed 
the  command  seemed  determined  to  single  me  out  as  tlie  mark 
of  his  vengeance.  He  retreated  a  little  space,  then  wheeling  his 
horse,  rode  towards  me  at  full  speed,  brandishing  in  his  right  hand  a 
long  pointed  javelin  of  hard  wood,  whicli  he  aimed  at  my  breast,  as 
our  horses  rushed  past  each  other,  I  fortunately  parried  the  blow,  and 
wheeling  on  his  rear  complimented  him  with  a  cut  across  the  right 
shoulder  that  nearly  penetrated  to  the  pap.  He  fell  to  the  gi'ound, 
and  was  able  to  rise  no  more. 

At  this  moment  I  received  an  arrow  in  my  riglit  thigh,  wliile  three 
others  were  planted  in  the  left  side  of  my  gallant  steed,  one  of  whicli 
liad  reached  his  heart,  and  he  fell  to  the  ground,  with  one  of  my  legs 
crushed  beneath  him,  in  such  a  manner  that  it  was  some  time  before  I 
could  extricate  myself,  which  I  at  length  effected,  rising  under  a 
shower  of  arrows.  I  now  attempted  to  take  the  horse  of  the  leader 
whom  I  had  just  put  hors  du  cojnbat,  and  who  was  still  holding  the  bridle 
in  his  left  hand.  Just  as  I  was  mountino-  this  animal,  live  of  the  most 
ferocious  of  the  enemy  started  for  me  at  full  speed,  and  would  doubt- 
less have  sent  me  after  their  two  leaders,  had  not  three  of  my  friends 
perceived  my  danger,  and  darted  to  my  rescue.  They  reached  me 
just  m  time  to  cut  down  three  of  the  assailants,  while  I  had  as  much 
business  as  I  could  attend  to  in  amusing  the  other  two,  one  of  whom 
fell  under  his  horse,  and  the  other  was  glad  to  make  his  escape  to  the 
forest. 

Several  of  mv  brave  comrades  had  bv  this  time  received  a  number 
of  severe  wounds  from  the  flint-headed  arrows  of  the  enemy,  and  the 
horse  of  my  friend  and  interpreter  was  killed  under  him  by  a  wooden 
lance  or  spear  like  that  which  had  threatened  my  own  life.  He  fortu- 
nately succeeded,  however,  m  catching  a  fallen  Indian's  horse,  which 
he  instantly  mounted,  and  returned  to  the  charge.  By  this  time  the 
enemv  had  drawn  off"  w^ithin  short  arroM'  distance,  and  commenced  firing 
a  shower  of  those  sharp-pointed  missiles  among  us.  From  the  first 
volley  one  of  our  party  received  a  wound  in  the  thigh ;  anothei*  arrow 
severely  tickled  my  left  leg,  while  a  third  penetrated  the  collar  of  my 
coat.  We  soon  became  convinced  that  our  only  safety  depended  upon 
close  quarters  ;  we  therefore  made  another  desperate  charge  on  the 
bloodthirsty  v.retches,  who  maintained  their  ground  iu<-h  by  inch,  with 
a  valour  worthy  of  a  better  cause.  Their  countenances  became  more 
and  more  ferocious  as  they  felt  the  sharp  edges  of  our  sabres ;  and  as 
their  cause  began  to  assume  an  aspect  of  hopelessness,  their  horrid 
yells  of  rage  and  disappointment  were  truly  diabolical. 

In  a  few.  minutes  we  cut  down  four  of  them,  when  the  survivors 
thought  it  the  best  policy  to  make  a  precipitate  retreat,  at  the  same 
time  turning  back  in  their  saddles,  to  deliver  their  arrows  as  they 
departed,  in  order  to  deter  pursuit.  'J'hey  might  have  dispensed  with 
this  ceremony,  however,  for  we  felt  no  disposition  to  follow  them,  being 
as  glad  to  get  rid  of  them  as  they  could  be  to  escape  from  us.  A 
number  of  them  must  have  carried  away  some  "  mortal  gashes"  on 


206  RETURN  FROM  HUNTING.  [1825. 

tlieir  heads  and  shoulders,  ^\•hich,  haviwg  no  covering,  presented  no  im- 
pediment to  tlie  full  operation  of  our  sharp  arguments. 

After  we  had  rested  a  little  from  the  fatigue  of  half  an  hour's  hard 
fighting,  we  proceeded  to  inspect  the  field  of  battle,  on  wliich  we  found 
seventeen  of  tlie  enemy,  lying  in  the  sleep  of  death.  The  counte- 
nance of  the  cliief  who  fell  by  my  musket  still  wore  the  smile  of 
derision  caused  by  the  affected  awkwardness  with  which  I  was  dis- 
mountino-  in  order  to  brino-  my  musket  to  bear  at  his  heart.  On  our 
part,  \vc  had  not  lost  a  man,  though  only  one  escaped  without  a  wound. 
Four  of  us  were  wounded  in  several  places,  and  I  felt  considerable 
uneasiness  on  that  account,  until  my  companions  assured  me  that  the 
Indians  of  Sonora  y  Sinaloa  were  ignorant  of  the  art  of  poisoning- 
arrows ;  and  1  afterward  discovered  that  Humboldt  and  La  Perouse 
both  attest  to  the  same  fact. 

The  fruits  of  our  victory  were  eleven  fine  horses,  a  dozen  bows, 
several  wooden  spears,  the  points  of  which  were  very  sharp,  and  had 
evidently  been  hardened  in  the  fire,  and  arrows  without  number.  Our 
loss  was  seven  men  wounded  ;  three  horses  killed,  and  two  wounded  : 
missing  none.  I  tlien  proposed  that  we  should  unite  in  returning  our 
acknowledgments  to  the  great  Disposer  of  events,  who  had  given  us  the 
victory  against  such  a  great  disparity  of  force,  and  saved  us  from  sudden 
death,  or  a  horrible  captivity.  This  duty  being  performed,  we  col- 
lected our  spoils  and  our  game,  with  v.hich  we  loaded  some  of  our 
led  horses,  and  soon  set  out  on  our  return  to  St.  Diego,  at  which  place 
we  arrived  in  safetv,  about  eisht  o'clock  the  next  morning :  much 
fatigued  from  fighting,  travelling,  and  the  want  of  sleep  for  twenty- 
ifine  hours. 

Our  adventure  with  tlie  Indians  soon  became  rumoured  about,  and 
the  whole  town  was  immediately  in  a  state  of  alarm.  The  good  padre 
of  the  mission,  with  most  of  his  flock,  thronged  about  us,  offering  their 
congratulations  on  our  safety,  and  the  old  priest  actually  shed  tears  as 
he  audibly  returned  thanks  to  Heaven  for  our  deliverance  from  such 
imminent  danger.  My  companions  related  tlie  story  in  their  own 
way,  and  interlarded  it  with  so  many  unmerited  compliments  to  the 
courage,  and  coolness,  and  cahnness  of  "  Senor  Capitan  Morrell,"  as 
they  termed  me,  tliat  I  felt  quite  ashamed  of  it — as  every  man  did  his 
duty  nobly,  and  not  one  of  them  M'as  the  least  deficient  in  those  quali- 
ties which  they  so  liberally  attributed  to  me.  Heaven  favoured  our 
cause,  or  skill  and  courage  would  have  been  totally  unavailable.  Yet 
still  I  feel  it  a  duty  to  seize  every  occasion  to  recommend  coolness 
and  calmness  to  ever)'  one  who  may  be  placed  in  scenes  of  danger^ 
especially  where  the  conduct  of  others  will  depend  greatly  upon  his 
own. 

It  was  with  feelings  of  sincere  afl^ection  and  regret  that  I  took  leave 
of  the  friends  and  acquaintances  I  had  acquired  during  our  short  stay 
at  St.  Diego.  The  good  old  padre  of  the  mission  gave  me  his 
blessing,  and  made  me  promise  never  to  pass  the  port  without  stop- 
ping for  repose  and  refreshment. 

April  23d. — On  Saturday,  at  four  P.  M.,  we  got  under  way,  and 
left  the  harbour  of  St.  Diego,  with  the  wind  from  west-north-west,  and 


May.]  BAY  AND  PORT  OF  MONTEREY.  207 

fair  weather,  our  port  of  destination  being  Monterey,  about  one  hundred 
leagues  farther  up  the  coast.  Wliile  crossing  the  great  Bay  of  St. 
Barbara,  we  examined  many  islands  for  fur-seals,  but  without  much 
success.  We  saw  a  few  sea-elephants,  and  a  considerable  number  of 
sea-leopards,  which  Mere  very  Mild. 

Among  the  islands  examined  by  us  in  the  bay  just  named  are  St. 
Clement,  St.  Catalina,  St.  Barbara,  St.  Rosa,  and  St.  Miguel.  The 
last-named  island  is  in  lat.  33°  58'  N.,  long.  119°  43'  W.  The  coast 
between  Cape  Conception  and  Cenizas  Island  is  clear  of  dangers  half 
a  mile  from  the  shore  ;  and  there  is  a  good  and  safe  passage  inside  of 
the  islands  M'hich  lie  off  the  Bay  of  St.  Barbara,  and  good  anchorage 
round  most  of  them.  From  the  majority  of  these  islands  a  shoal  runs 
off  to  some  distance  ;  but  every  danger  is  marked  by  the  kelp  or  rock- 
weed,  M^liich  often  groM's  to  tM'enty  fathoms  in  length. 

To  the  north  of  Conception  Point  are  several  sunken  rocks,  lying 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  "west  of  Point  Arguello.  There  are 
also  rocks  and  breakers  lying  one  mile  off-shore  from  Point  Buchon ; 
but  the  shores  from  this  point,  all  the  M'ay  to  Point  Pinos,  M-hich  is  the 
south  point  of  Monterey  Bay,  are  bold  and  clear  from  dangers  one- 
fourth  of  a  mile  from  the  land; 

In  entering  the  Bay  of  INIonterey  from  the  south,  it  is  necessary*  to 
give  the  M'estern  part  of  Point  Pinos  a  good  berth  of  about  a  mile  and 
a  half;  as  there  are  several  sunken  rocks  lying  more  than  a  mile  from 
the  shore,  M'ith  shalloM-  M'ater  on  them.  After  bringing  tlie  northern 
extremity  of  Point  Pinos  to  bear  south-south-east,  you  may  haul  into 
the  bay  to  the  south-east,  and  from  that  to  south-M'est,  and  anchor  in 
six  fathoms,  M'ith  the  fort  on  the  M'cst  side  of  the  bay  bearing  M'est- 
half-south,  distant  about  one  mile. 

Maij  bth. — Having  examined  the  coast  and  islands  from  St.  Diego, 
to  the  north,  as  far  as  Point  Pinos,  in  lat.  36^  39'  N.,  long.  121°  30' 
W.,  we  arrived  at  the  port  of  Monterey  on  Thursday,  \\\e  5th  of  May, 
at  nine  A.  M.,  and  anchored  in  six  fathoms  of  M'atev,  clay  bottom; 
the  flag-staff  on  the  fort  at  the  Mcst  side  of  the  bav  bearing  M-est-lialf- 
south,  distant  one  mile. 

The  Bav  of  Monterey  is  fomiod  bv  Point  Pinos  on  the  south,  and 
Point  NcM'-year  on  the  north.  It  is  a  spacious,  sandy,  open  roatlstead, 
about  tM-enty  miles  across,  M'ith  anchorage  near  the  shore  in  almost 
every  part  o'fit.  Although  it  is  exposed  to  a  heavy  swell  M'hich  rolls 
in  from  the  M'cstward,  no  accidents  have  ever  occurred  to  vessels 
properly  provided  Mith  cables  and  anchors.  The  landing  is  rough  at 
times,  but  not  dangerously  so ;  and  the  best  anchorage  is  in  its  south 
angle,  south-east  of  Point  Pinos,  close  in  Miih  the  shore,  so  as  to 
enjoy  the  ])rotection  of  that  point. 

The  village  and  presidio  of  Monterey  are  situated  upon  a  plain, 
which  is  terminated  by  a  range  of  MOod-croM'ned  heights.  This  place 
was  plundered  and  burnt,  in  the  year  1819,  by  a  piratical  vessel  under 
the  Buenos  Ayrean  flag,  the  creM'  having  first  taken  possession  of  the 
fort,  and  destroyed  the  greater  part  of  its  guns.  The  tOM'n  is  about 
one  mile  from  the  landing ;  being,  as  is  usual  M'hh  the  Californian 


208  SAN  CARLOS  AND  SAN  ANTONIO.  [1823- 

missions,  surrounded  by  a  wall  of  ten  feet  in  height,  built  of  free-stone, 
and  enclosing  about  two  hundred  houses.  There  are  also  one  church 
and  a  nunneiy.  The  residence  of  the  governor,  his  excellency  Don 
Miguel  Gonzales,  is  a  very  handsome  edifice. 

'J'he  inhabitants  of  Monterey  are  very  similar  to  those  of  St.  Diego, 
in  appearance,  character,  manners,  customs,  and  habits.  The  climate 
is  mild,  salubrious,  and  healthy  ;  being  on  the  same  parallel  as  Nor- 
folk, Virginia,  and  never  colder  than  58°,  and  seldom  warmer  than  85^. 
This  part  of  the  country  is  well  wooded,  and  tlie  soil  is  rich  and  fer- 
tile. Some  of  the  plantations  would  eclipse  our  finest  gardens — pro- 
ducing all  kinds  of  grain,  vegetables,  garden  herbs,  and  a  variety  of 
fruits  common  to  the  United  States.  This  is  a  fine  place  for  whaling- 
ships  to  touch  at  for  refreshments,  which  may  be  had  in  great  abun- 
dance, including  cattle,  sheep,  deer,  hogs,  poultry,  vegetables,  fruits, 
&c. ;  all  of  which  may  be  purchased  here  at  very  reasonable  prices. 

This  coast  has  been  famous  for  its  abundant  supplies  of  hides  and 
tallow ;  but  the  success  of  this  trade  drew  such  numbers  into  it  for 
the  last  ten  or  fifteen  years,  that  the  cattle  and  horses  are  becoming 
scarce,  and  their  prices  too  high  to  render  it  a  business  worth  follow- 
ing any  longer  by  vessels  from  the  United  States.  Previous  to  the 
revolution  in  Mexico,  and  before  a  republican  flag  had  ever  floated 
over  the  presidios*  and  forts  of  California,  the  government  of  Old 
Spain  reserved  to  itself  the  exclusive  commerce  of  its  hides  and  pel- 
tries, from  which  they  collected  an  immense  revenue. 

The  mission  of  San  Carlos  de  Monterey  lies  about  a  league  to  the 
southward  of  the  presidio ;  it  is  a  small  establishment,  containing  two 
hundred  and  sixty  Indians.  It  stands  in  a  pleasant  valley,  near  the 
river  St.  Carmelo,  a  small  stream  that  runs  into  a  rocky  bay,  south  of 
Point  Pinos.  The  road  from  the  port  to  this  place  is  truly  delightful, 
leading  tlirough  rural  scener}^  of  the  most  pleasing  and  picturesque 
appearance.  Here  are  fine  pasture  lands,  interspersed  with  pine,  oak, 
and  birch  trees,  with  verv  little  underwood. 

About  ten  miles  to  the  east-south-east  of  Monterey  is  the  mission  of 
St.  Antonio  de  Padua.  This  place  is  built  in  a  circular  form,  having 
the  appearance  of  military  barracks,  with  a  church  in  the  centre. 
There  are  now  about  fifteen  hundred  Indians  in  this  mission,  governed 
by  two  friars  and  four  monks,  who  keep  the  Indians  at  work  in  culti- 
vating the  ground  and  rearing  cattle.  All  that  their  labour  produces 
over  and  above  the  support  of  the  establishment,  is  sold  at  Monterey 
by  the  friars,  and  the  proceeds  laid  out  in  clothing,  agricultural  imple- 
ments, and  other  necessaries,  for  the  good  of  the  mission,  and  the  im- 
provement of  the  Indians.  The  latter  are  very  industrious  in  their 
labours,  and  obedient  to  their  teachers  and  directors,  to  wJiom  tliey 
look  up  as  to  a  father  and  protector,  and  who  in  return  discharge 
their  duty  towards  these  poor  Indians  with  a  great  deal  of  feeling  and 
humanity.  They  are  generally  well  clothed  and  fed,  have  houses  of 
their  own,  and  are  made  as  comfortable  as  they  wish  to  be.     The 

*  With  the  Spaniards  the  word  presidio  is  a  general  name  for  all  forts  (both  in  Africa  and 
America)  which  are  placed  in  the  middle  of  a  country  of  infidels,  and  implying  that  there  are  no 
other  inhabitants,  t>esidc6  the  garrison,  which  reside  within  the  citadel. 


Kfay.]  FARALLONE  ISLANDS.  ij^^ 

greatest  care  is  taken  of  all  who  are  aflected  with  any  disease,  and 
every  attention  is  paid  to  their  wants. 

We  found  lying  in  the  port  of  Monterey  the  Spanish  ship  Asia,  of 
sixty-four  guns,  which  had  sailed  from  the  coast  of  Peru  in  the  month 
of  December,  1824,  bound  to  Old  Spain,  by  the  way  of  Manilla.  The 
Asia  was  employed  to  convey  home  as  passengers  the  ex-yiceroy  of 
Peru  and  suite,  many  Spanish  merchants,  and  a  few  troops,  returning 
according  to  the  terms  of  capitulation  after  the  battle  of  Ayacucho, 
which  secured  the  independence  of  Peru.  After  passing  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  in  her  course  to  Manilla,  a  part  of  the  officers  and  crew  rose 
on  the  others  and  took  the  ship,  widi  a  determination  to  turn  back  and 
give  her  up  to  the  Mexicans.  Having  thus  obtained  charge  of  the 
vessel,  the  mutineers  navigated  her  to  the  island  of  Guam,  chief  of  the 
Ladrones,  where  they  landed  the  viceroy  and  suite,  all  the  merchants, 
and  a  good  part  of  their  property.  They  then  steered  to  the  north 
until  they  took  the  fresh  westerly  wind,  when  they  ran  to  the  eastward 
for  the  port  of  Monterey,  where  they  arrived  on  Sunday,  the  1st  day 
of  May,  four  days  before  the  Tartar.  I  afterward  learned  that  they 
left  Monterey  after  taking  on  board  the  necessary  provisions,  and 
sailed  for  Acapulco,  a  port  of  Mexico,  on  the  Pacific  Ocean,  at  which 
place  they  gave  themselves  up  to  the  Mexican  government. 

May  1th. — My  object  in  touching  at  Monterey  was  to  obtain  in- 
formation of  the  coast  to  the  north ;  but  I  soon  discovered  that  the 
inhabitants  here  knew  nothing  of  the  subject,  either  north  or  south :  I 
therefore  leftjhem  as  wise  as  I  came.  On  Saturday,  the  7th  of  May, 
we  got  under  way,  and  continued  examining  the  coast  to  the  north  and 
west,  with  the  wind  from  west-north-west  to  north-by-east,  and  fair 
weather. 

May  1  \th. — On  Wednesday,  the  1 1th,  we  arrived  at  the  Farallone 
Islands,  in  lat.  37°  41'  N.,  long.  122°  35'  W.  These  are  nothing  but 
a  cluster  of  rocky  islands,  destitute  of  vegetation.  The  northernmost, 
which  is  the  largest,  is  about  two  miles  in  circumference,  of  an  oblong 
shape,  lying  east-north-east  and  west-south-west.  On  each  end  is  a 
hill,  rising  about  three  hundred  feet,  and  declining  to  a  valley  in  the 
centre  of  the  island,  forming  the  appearance,  when  viewed  from  the 
north  or  south,  of  a  saddle.  Many  years  ago  this  place  was  the  resort 
of  numerous  fur-seal,  but  the  Russians  have  made  such  havoc  among 
them  that  there  is  scarcely  a  breed  left. 

On  this  barren  rock  we  found  a  Russian  family,  and  twenty-three 
Codiacks,  or  north-west  Indians,  with  their  bark  canoes.  They  were 
employed  in  taking  sea-leopards,  sea-horses,  and  sea-elephants,  for 
their  skins,  oil,  and  flesh ;  the  latter  being  jerked  for  the  Russian 
market,  on  the  north-west  coast.  At  the  time  of  our  visit  they  had 
about  fifty  tons  of  this  beef  cured,  and  were  then  expecting  the  arrival 
of  a  Russian  ifessel  to  take  off  the  beef,  and  leave  them  a  supply  of 
fresh  water,  there  being  none  on  the  island. 

This  island  is  of  volcanic  origin ;  most  of  the  rocks  have  evidently 
been  once  in  a  state  of  fusion,  and  the  lowland  is  covered  with  pumice- 
stone.     Aquatic  birds,  in  considerable  variety,  resort  hither  for  the 

O 


/► 

t 


210  PORT  ST.  FRANCISCO.  [1825. 

purposes  of  laying  and  incubation ;  but  the  Russians  seldom  give 
ihein  a  chance  for  the  latter  process,  generally  securing  tlie  eggs  as 
fast  as  they  are  deposited. 

May  12^1. — After  carefully  examining  this  island,  without  finding  a 
single  fur-seal,  we  bore  away  for  Port  St  Francisco,  where  we  ar- 
rived on  the  12th  of  May ;  and  at  six,  P.  M.,  came  to  anchor  on  the 
south-west  side  of  the  bay,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  with  the  mission 
of  St.  Clara  bearing  south-west,  and  the  nearest  land  to  the  westward 
distant  one-fourth  of  a  mile  from  the  vessel. 

This  magnificent  harbour,  the  entrance  to  which  lies  in  lat.  37°  48' 
N.,  long.  122°  16'  W.,  possesses  almost  all  the  requisites  for  a  great 
naval  establishment,  and  is  better  calculated  for  such  a  depot  than  any 
other  port  between  the  island  of  Chiloe,  on  the  south  coast  of  Chili, 
and  the  Columbia  River,  on  the  coast  of  our  Oregon  territory.  It  is 
easy  of  access,  the  entrance  being  about  two  miles  vv'ide,  between  two 
bluif  points ;  and  there  is  sufficient  water  for  a  line-of-battle  ship, 
within  a  cable's  length  of  the  shore,  until  she  is  six  miles  within  the 
bay,  where  a  flat  puts  off  from  the  south  shore,  about  one  hundred 
fathoms. 

After  steering  in  east  for  eight  miles,  you  will  come  to  a  low  point 
of  land,  on  the  south  side  of  the  bay,  to  which  a  good  berth  must  be 
given,  say  half  a  mile.  Having  passed  this  point,  the  south  arm  of 
the  bay  opens  to  view,  extending  south  a  few  degrees  easterly,  for 
more  than  twenty  miles.  At  the  head  of  this  is  a  river  which  extends 
far  into  the  country.  This  southern  arm  is  about  five  miles  wide  for 
a  considerable  distance  to  the  south,  with  a  moderate  depth  of  water, 
varying  from  twenty  to  five  fathoms  ;  thus  affording  a  water  communi- 
cation between  the  missions  of  San  Jose,  Santa  Clara,  and  the  presidio. 
The  best  anchorage  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  bay,  in  from  ten  to  four 
fathoms,  near  the  shore,  and  nearly  abreast  of  the  mission,  which  is  iii 
full  view,  about  two  miles  from  the  shore  of  the  bay,  and  five  miles 
within  the  entrance  of  the  port. 

There  is  also  another  arm  of  the  bay,  which  extends  to  the  north 
and  north-east  about  twenty -live  miles,  where  it  becomes  contracted  to 
a,  strait,  communicating  with  a  basin  more  than  ten  miles  in  width. 
This  basin  has  a  water  communication  on  the  north-west  side  with 
the  new  mission  of  San  Francisco  Solano.  This  northern  arm  of  the 
bay  is  sprinkled  with  a  number  of  small  green  islands,  between  which 
ihere  are  good  passages  for  ships  of  any  size,  for  about  fifteen  miles 
to  the  north,  and  good  anchorage  all  over  the  bay,  in  from  twenty  to 
live  fathoms  of  water,  mud  and  clay  bottom. 

Three  rivers  empty  their  waters  into  this  arm  of  St.  Francisco  Bay ; 
one  of  which,  called  El  Sacramento,  has  its  rise  among  the  Rocky 
Mountains  near  the  sources  of  the  Columbia,  Colorada,  Rio  del  Norte, 
Arkansas,  and  La  Platte.  Thus  the  water  on  which  the  Tartar  now 
reposed  was  partly  supplied  from  the  mountain  springs  of  our  native 
country.  Any  thought  like  this,  however  trifling  in  itself,  is  interest^ 
ing  to  those  who  are  far  from  home.  Any  thing  that  reminds  one  of  his 
native  land  is  dear  to  the  heart  of  the  wanderer. 

The  bay  of  St.  Francisco,  connected  with  the  surrounding  scenery. 


May.]  PORT  ST.  FRANCISCO  211 

is  the  most  delightful  place  I  have  ever  seen  on  the  western  coast  of 
America.  It  presents  a  broad  sheet  of  water,  of  sufficient  extent  to 
float  all  the  British  navy  without  crowding ;  the  circling  grassy  shores, 
indented  with  convenient  coves,  and  the  Avhole  surrounded  by  a  ver- 
dant blooming  country,  pleasingly  diversified  with  cultured  fields  and 
waving  forests  ;  meadows  clothed  with  the  richest  verdure  in  the  gift 
of  bounteous  May  ;  pastures  covered  with  grazing  herds  ;  hill  and  dale,, 
mountain  and  valley,  noble  rivers,  and  gurgling  brooks.  Man,  enlight- 
ened, civilized  man,  alone  is  wanting  to  complete  the  picture,  and  give 
a  soul,  a  divinity  to  the  whole.  Were  these  beautiful  regions,  which, 
have  been  so  much  libelled,  and  are  so  little  known,  the  property  of 
the  United  States,  our  government  would  never  permit  them  to  remain 
thus  neglected.  The  eastern  and  middle  states  would  pour  out  their 
thousands  of  emigrants,  until  magnificent  cities  would  rise  on  the  shores 
of  every  inlet  along  the  coast  of  New  California,  while  the  wilderness 
of  the  interior  would  be  made  to  blossom  like  the  rose. 

The  soil  of  the  surrounding  country  is  very  rich,  deep,  and  fertile,, 
and  much  of  it  is  thickly  clothed  with  as  fine  ship-timber  as  grows  in 
the  United  States,  and  generally  of  the  same  kinds.  Pine,  spruce,  and 
red  cedar  are  found  in  abundance,  and  of  a  size  sufficient  for  masts 
of  the  largest  ships.  At  some  distance  in  the  interior  are  extensive 
plains,  luxuriantly  covered  with  clover  and  various  kmds  of  grasses,  on 
which  thousands  of  wild  cattle  and  horses  graze  unmolested.  Many 
animals  that  produce  fur  are  foimd  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  and  a 
great  variety  of  fish  resort  to  the  bay  in  the  spawning  season. 

During  the  summer  season  the  wind  generally  blows,  in  the  day- 
time, from  north-north-west  to  west  in  the  bay ;  but  never  very  strong. 
During  the  winter  months  it  blows  in  the  daytime  from  south-west  to 
.south-south-east ;  but  at  night,  within  the  bay,  it  is  calm  nineteen- 
twentieths  of  the  year. 

The  town  of  St.  Francisco  stands  on  a  table-land,  elevated  about 
three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  sea,  on  a  peninsula  five  miles  in 
width,  on  the  south  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay,  about  two  miles  to 
the  eastward  of  the  outer  entrance,  and  one-fourth  of  a  mile  from  the 
shore.  It  is  built  in  the  same  maimer  as  Monterey,  but  much  smaller^ 
comprising  only  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  houses  and  a  church,, 
with  perhaps  five  hundred  inhabitants.  The  fort  stands  on  a  promon- 
tory, on  the  south  side  of  the  entrance,  and  mounts  ten  guns,  which 
would  be  sufficient  to  command  the  passage,  were  the  works  kept  ia 
any  kind  of  order. 

]  The  inhabitants  of  this  place  are  principally  Mexicans  and  Span- 
iards, who  are  very  indolent,  and  consequently  very  filtliy.  They  cul- 
tivate barely  sufficient  land  to  support  nature  ;  consequently  nothing 
can  be  obtained  here  by  way  of  refreshments  for  ships ;  but  at  the 
mission  of  St.  Clara,  of  which  I  shall  speak  presently,  ten  ships  at  a 
time  may  be  abundantly  supplied  with  every  thing  they  require,  at  a 
very  low  price.  The  table-land  before  mentioned  would  produce 
abundantly  witli  proper  cultivation ;  but  its  surface  is  scarcely  ever 
disturbed  by  plough  or  spade,  and  the  garrison  depends  entirely  upon 
ihe  mission  for  all  its  supplies.     Sufllcient  wheat  and  vegetables  for 

02 


2ia  CAPE  BLANCO.  [1835. 

the  troops  might  easily  be  derived  from  tliis  soil  if  the  proper  means 
were  duly  applied,  as  their  whole  military  force  does  not  exceed  one 
hundred,  including  officers.  ' 

The  mission  of  St.  Clara  is  situated  on  a  delightful  plain,  surrounded 
by  beautiful  groves  of  oak,  and  other  hard  wood  of  a  durable  nature, 
one  of  which  is  much  like  lignumvitae.  This  mission,  which  was 
founded  in  1777,  contains  about  twelve  hundred  native  Indians,  and  is 
governed  in  the  same  humane  manner  as  that  of  St.  Antonio,  before 
mentioned.  No  person  of  an  unprejudiced  mind  could  witness  the 
labours  of  these  Catholic  missionaries,  and  contemplate  the  happy  re- 
sults of  their  philanthropic  exertions,  without  confessing  that  they  are 
unwearied  in  well-doing.  The  lives  of  these  simple-hearted,  benevo- 
lent men  are  solely  devoted  to  the  temporal  and  (as  they  think)  eternal 
welfare  of  a  race  of  savages,  apparently  abandoned  by  Providence  to 
the  lowest  state  of  human  degradation.  Surely  such  disinterested  be- 
ings, whatever  may  be  their  errors  of  opinion,  will  meet  a  rich  reward 
from  Him  who  hath  said,  "Love  one  another." 

These  converted  Indians  have  a  very  smart,  active,  friendly,  and 
good-natured  demeanour.  Their  features  are  handsome  and  well-pro- 
portioned ;  their  countenances  are  cheerful  and  interesting ;  and  they 
are  generally  a  very  industrious,  ingenious,  and  cleanly  people.  The 
sins  of  lying  and  stealing  are  held  by  them  in  the  utmost  abhorrence, 
and  they  look  upon  them  as  two  of  the  most  heinous  crimes  of  which 
a  man  can  be  guilty,  murder  alone  excepted.  Tliey  evince  the  most 
tender  affection  for  their  wives  and  children,  which  is  abundantly  re- 
ciprocated by  the  females  and  their  offspring. 

May  17(J(, — On  Monday,  the  seventeenth  of  Ma}^  at  one,  P.  M.,  we 
again  got  under  way,  and  put  to  sea,  and  continued  examining  the  coast 
to  the  north-west,  taking  advantage  of  the  land  and  sea-breezes  as: 
much  as  possible. 

May  20tlu — On  Friday,  the  twentieth,  we  arrived  at  Cape  Blanco, 
situated  in  latitude  42°  49'  N.,  long.  124°  13'  W.  Between  this  cape 
and  that  of  Mendocino,  which  is  in  latitude  40°  17'  N.,  long.  123°  12' 
W.,  there  are  many  small  islands  and  rocks,  some  of  which  lie  three 
miles  from  the  main.  On  these  islands  or  keys  I  expected  to  find  fur- 
seals  ;  whereas  I  found  them  all  manned  witli  Russians,  standing  ready 
with  their  rifles  to  shoot  every  seal  or  sea-otter  that  showed  his  head 
above  water. 

This  part  of  the  coast  is  very  dangerous  to  approach  in  the  night, 
there  being  many  sunken  rocks  lying  from  two  to  three  miles  off-shore. 
Cape  Blanco,  being  about  fifty  miles  north  of  die  division  line  which 
separates  the  Mexican  possessions  from  those  of  the  UnUed  States,  be- 
longs of  course  to  our  own  country,  being  a  point  of  the  Oregon  terri- 
tory. Between  this  cape  and  the  mouthof  Columbia  River,  a  distance 
of  seventy  leagues,  the  coast,  I  believe,  has  never  beien  closely  ex- 
amined, and  of  course  I  cannot  pretend  to  give  any  description  of  it. 
The  Russians  make  no  ceremony  of  hunting  and  even  of  forming  settle- 
ments on  any  part  of  the  coast  that  suits  their  convenience ;  and  unless 
our  government  plant  a  colony  there,  under  the  protection  of  the  national 


June.]         ISLAND  OF  SOCORRO— S.\NDWICH  ISLANDS.  213 

banner,  our  claim  to  the  country  will  soon  be  laughed  at  by  the  uncivil- 
ized vassals  of  the  destroyer  of  Poland. 

May  22d. — Perceiving  very  little  prospect  of  taking  fur-seals  on  any 
part  of  the  coast  which  the  Russians  have  monopolized,  without  pur- 
chasing them  of  the  intruders,  we  squared  away,  and  ran  before  the 
wind  to  the  southward.  This  was  on  Saturday,  the  twenty-second  of 
May.  We  continued  standing  to  the  south-east,  with  fresh  winds  from 
west-north-west  to  north-north-west,  and  fair  weather,  until  the  thirtieth 
day  of  May;  when,  at  five,  A.  M.,  we  were  close  in  with  the  west  end 
of  the  island  of  Socorro,  the  south  point  of  which  is  in  latitude  18°  53' 
N.,  long.  110°  9'  W. 

Mat/  dOth. — This  island  lies  about  ninety  leagues  due  south  from  Cape 
St.  Lucas,  the  most  southern  extremity  of  the  peninsula  of  Old  Cali- 
fornia, and  a  little  more  than  that  distance  south-west  from  Cape  Cor* 
rientes  in  Mexico.  It  may  be  seen  at  the  distance  of  fourteen  leagues ; 
is  of  volcanic  origin,  though  tolerably  well  wooded  ;  and  is  found  to  be 
a  convenient  stopping-place  for  vessels  wanting  water  or  fuel.  These 
articles  may  be  procured  in  a  small  bay  near  the  middle  of  the  south 
side  of  the  island,  where  good  anchorage  is  found,  in  moderate  weather, 
in  from  twenty-five  to  ten  fi^thoms  of  water,  sandy  and  rocky  bottom. 
The  shores  all  around  this  island  are  clear  of  danger  two  cables'  length 
from  the  land,  excepting  on  the  north  side,  where  there  are  small  islets 
lying  near  the  main  island  :  and  about  one  mile  to  the  north  of  them 
there  is  a  sunken  rock,  on  whicii  the  sea  breaks  in  rough  weather. 

At  six,  A.  M.,  the  boats  were  despatched  to  examine  the  island  in 
search  of  fur-seals  ;  but  returned,  after  a  faithful  inspection,  without 
seeing  more  than  twenty  animals  of  that  species.  They  saw  about 
three  hundred  sea-leopards,  and  fifteen  hundred  hair-seals.  A  variety 
of  sea-birds  are  found  to  frequent  this  island,  and  a  few  small  land- 
birds  are  seen  among  the  shrubbery. 

June  5th. — On  Sunday,  the  fifth  of  June,  we  steered  for  the  Sand- 
wicli  Islands,  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  north-north-east,  and  fair 
weather,  which  continued,  with  little  interruption,  for  more  than  a 
fortnight. 

June  22d. — On  Wednesday,  the  twenty-second,  at  four,  A.  M.,  we 
saw  the  island  of  Owhyee,  bearing  west-south-west,  distant  seven 
leagues.  At  eleven,  A.  M.,we  came  to  anchor  on  the  south-west  side 
of  Mowee,  about  half  a  mile  oflT-shore,  in  seven  fathoms  of  water,  sand 
and  coral  bottom.  We  had  not  been  at  anchor  more  than  half  an  hour, 
before  we  had  twenty  canoes  alongside,  with  hogs,  potatoes,  pump- 
kins, watermelons,  onions,  plantains,  bananas,  cocoanuts,  and  fish, 

for  sale. 

The  history  of  this  interesting  group  of  islands  is  so  familiar  to  every 
one  of  my  readers  tliat  all  I  could  say  on  the  subject  would  necessarily 
be  a  mere  repetition  of  what  has  already  been  repeated  a  thousand 
times.  No  other  section  of  the  globe  has  been  visited  so  oiteh,  or  de- 
scribed so  fully,  as  this  cluster  of  islands-;  for  they  have  been  touched 
at  by  almost  every  navigator  tliat  has  crossed  the  Pacific  since  their  ^,;- 
first  discovery  by  Captain  Cook.  I  shall  therefore  merely  describe  V' 
their  location,  size,  and  appearance,  and  refer  the  reader  for  further 


314  SANDWICH  ISLANDS.  [1825. 

particulars  to  Stewart's  Visit  to  the  South  Sea  in  18-29  and  1830,  Ellis's 
Polynesian  Researches,  and  the  printed  journal  of  almost  every  voyage 

"^        which  has  been  made  to  tlie  Pacific. 

The  reader  is  well  aware  that  this  group  of  islands  was  among  the 
last  of  Cook's  discoveries,  and  that  he  was  assassinated  on  one  of  them 
by  the  natives.  It  was  under  the  administration  of  the  Earl  of  Sand- 
wich that  this  great  navigator  prosecuted  his  discoveries  in  the  Pacific 
Ocean  ;  and  he  therefore  named  these  islands  in  honour  of  that  noble- 
man. The  group  comprises  eleven  islands,  extending  in  latitude  from 
18^  54'  to  22°  15'  N.,  and  in  longitude  from  154°  50'  to  160°  24'  W. 
They  are  called  by  the  natives  Owhyee,  Mowee,  Ranai,  Morotoi, 
Toohoorawa,  Woahoo,  Atooi,  Oneeheeow,  Oreehoua,  Morotinni,  and 
Toohoora.  They  are  all  inhabited,  except  the  two  last. 

June  2dd. — Owhyee,  which  we  visited  on  the  twenty-third,  is  the 
largest  and  most  eastern  of  these  islands,  its  length  from  north  to  south 
being  eighty-four  miles,  and  its  breadth  seventy.  On  the  north  side  is 
a  mountain  that  rises  in  tliree  peaks,  about  half  a  mile  high,  perpetually 
■covered  with  snow,  and  may  be  seen  at  the  distance  of  forty  leagues. 

'  To  the  north  of  this  mountain  the  coast  consists  of  high  and  abrupt 

cliffs,  down  which  fall  many  beautiful  cascades  ;  and  the  whole  country 
is  covered  with  cocoanut  and  bread-fruit  trees.  The  ground  south  of 
the  three-peaked  mountain  is  covered  with  cinders,  and  in  many  places 
presents  black  streaks,  which  seem  to  indicate  the  course  of  the  lava 
that  has  been  ejected  from  the  mountain,  and  flowed  in  streams  to  the 
shore.  The  projecting  headland  is  composed  of  broken  and  craggy 
rocks,  piled  irregularly  on  one  another,  and  terminating  in  sharp  points. 
Amid  these  ruins,  however,  are  many  patches  of  rich  soil,  carefully 
laid  out  in  plantations.  The  fields  are  enclosed  by  stone  fences,  and 
are  interspersed  with  groves  of  cocoanut-trees.  It  was  on  this  island 
that  Captain  Cook,  in  1779,  fell  a  victim  to  the  sudden  resentment  of 
the  natives,  with  whom  he  unfortunately  had  a  dispute. 

Mowee  is  one  hundred  and  sixty-two  miles  in  circumference.  It  is 
divided  by  a  low  isthmus  into  two  circular  peninsulas,  the  eastern 
being  double  the  size  of  the  western.  In  each  of  these  peninsulas 
there  is  a  mountain  rising  to  a  very  great  height,  v\hich  may  be  seen 
at  the  distance  of  twenty  leagues.  There  are  no  soundings  on  the 
north  shores,  but  the  country  presents  an  appearance  of  verdure  and 
fertility.  Near  the  west  point  of  the  smaller  peninsula  is  a  spacious 
bay,  with  a  sandy  beach,  shaded  by  cocoanut  trees.  The  country 
behind  has  truly  a  romantic  appearance,  the  hills  rising  in  a  great 
variety  of  peaked  forms ;  their  steep  sides,  and  the  deep  chasms  be- 
tween them,  being  covered  with  trees.  The  inhabitants  are  computed 
at  sixty-five  thousand. 

Ju7ie  26th. — On  Sunday,  the  26th,  we  visited  Woahoo,  which  is 
seven  leagues  north-west  of  Morotoi.  From  the  appearance  of  the 
north-east  and  north-west  parts  of  this  island,  I  should  judge  it  to  be 
the  finest  one  of  the  group.     Morotoi  is  only  seven  miles  west-north- 

._j^  west  of  Mowee,  and  its  principal  produce  is  yams ;  but  it  has  little 
■wood.  On  the  south  and  west  sides  the  coast  is  indented  with  several 
.bays,  which  are  tolerably  well  sheltered  from  the  trade-winds.        - 


June.]  SANDWICH  ISLANDS.  215 

June  28th. — On  Tuesday,  the  28th,  we  touched  at  Atooi,  which 
appears  to  be  well  wooded.  Towards  the  north  and  north-west,  the 
face  of  the  country  is  rugged  and  broken ;  but  to  the  south  it  is  more 
even.  The  hills  rise  from  tlie  seaside  with  a  gentle  acclivity,  and  at  a 
little  distance  back  are  clothed  with  flourishing  timber. 

Ju7i€  29tk. — On  the  following  day  we  touched  at  the  island  of 
Oneeheeow,  which  is  five  leagues  west  of  Atooi.  Its  eastern  coast  is 
high,  rising  abruptly  from  the  sea ;  but  the  other  parts  consist  of  low 
ground,  except  a  round  bluff  head  on  the  south-east  point.  It  produces 
a  plenty  of  yams,  and  a  sweet  root  called  tee.  It  contains  about  ten 
thousand  inhabitants.  Three  leagues  south-west  of  Mowee  hes  Ta- 
hoorowa,  one  of  the  smallest  of  the  group.  It  is  destitute  of  wood, 
and  the  soil  seems  to  be  sandy  and  barren. 


CHAPTER  YII. 


Sail  from  the  Sandwich  Islands — Northern  Polynesia — Bird's  Island — Man-of- 
war  Rock — Lisiansky  Island — Caution  to  Navigators — Pearl  and  Hermes 
Island — Byers's  Island — An  unknown  Island — Steer  towards  the  Continent — 
Clipperton's  Rock — A  Wild-goose  Chase  for  St.  Vincent  Island — Arrive  at  the 
Gallapagos  Islands — Return  to  the  Coast  of  Peru — Bay  and  Tovni  of  Sechura 
— City  of  Piura — Directions  for  entering  the  Port  of  Sechura — Bay  and  Town 
of  Payta — Port  of  St.  Pedro — Bay  and  Town  of  Ferrol — Natural  Productions 
— Cinchona,  or  Peruvian  Bark — Animals,  &c. — Anive  at  the  Port  of  Chorillos. 

The  Sandwich  Islands  lie  within  the  tropic  of  Cancer,  about  one- 
third  of  the  distance  from  the  western  coast  of  Mexico,  towards  the 
eastern  shores  of  China.  They  lie  in  a  range  from  south-east  to  north- 
west, Owhyee  (or,  according  to  the  scientific  Ellis,  Hawaii)  forming 
the  south-eastern  extremity  of  the  group,  which  is  terminated  on  the 
north-west  by  Nihau  (Neeheeheon)  and  Taura  (Toohoora),  the  latter 
being  merely  a  barren  rock,  inhabited  only  by  a  vast  number  of  sea- 
fowl.  The  other  uninhabited  island  is  called  Morokini  (Morotinni),  a 
barren  rock  lying  between  Mowee  and  Toohoorawa,  and  would  render 
the  navigation  of  the  strait  exceedingly  dangerous,  did  not  its  elevation 
above  the  water  render  it  visible  at  all  times. 

To  the  north-west  of  the  group  which  bears  the  name  of  "  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,"  are  a  number  of  uninhabited  islands,  or  rocky  islets, 
which  appear  to  be  a  continuation  of  the  same  chain,  nearly  to  the 
180°  of  longitude,  and  •30'^  of  north  latitude.  These  are  called  by 
the  names  of  Bird's,  Necker,  Gardner,  Allen,  Lisiansky,  Bunker, 
Clarke's,  Massachusetts,  &;c.  As  it  was  my  intention  to  examine 
some  of  these  lonely  spots,  which  reared  their  rugged  heads  above 
the  surface  of  the  wilderness  of  waters,  I  made  but  a  short  stay  with 
the  friendly  islanders  of  the  Sandwich  cluster,  and  shaped  my  course 
for  Northern  Polynesia. 

June  30th. — On  Thursday,  the  30th,  we  got  under  way,  and  steered 


216  >ORTlIEi?N  POLYNESIA.  [1825. 

a  north-west  course,  with  a  fine  breeze  tVoni  nortli-east-by-north.  On 
the  following  day  we  passed  within  hall'  a  mile  of  Bird's  Island,  and 
found  it  to  lie  in  lat.  23°  8'  N.,  long.  161°  68'  W.  This  is  merely  a 
barren  rock  of  volcanic  origin,  about  two  hundred  feet  above  the  water, 
which  is  bold  all  round  it,  and  numerous  sea-birds  iind  a  retreat  among 
its  cliUs  and  precipices. 

July  3(L — We  continued  our  course  with  a  strong  breeze  from 
north-east-by-east,  and  on  Sunday,  the  3d  day  of  July,  at  five  A.  M., 
passed  within  half  a  mile  of  Man-of-war's  Rock,  situated  in  lat.  25° 
V  N.,  long.  167°  37'  W.  This  is  also  the  ro('ky  summit  of  a  sub- 
marine mountain,  which  was  once  volcanic.  There  is  deep  water  all 
round  it,  except  on  the  south-west  side,  where  there  is  a  coral  reef 
extending  into  the  sea  about  half  a  mil6.  This  rock  is  destitute  of 
vegetation,  and  is  inhabited  by  nothing  but  sea-fowl  and  green  turtles. 

Juli/  6th. — We  continued  standing  to  the  westward,  with  fresh 
breezes  from  north-east,  keeping  two  men  at  the  mast-head  day  and 
night,  until  Wednesday,  the  6tli,  when  we  landed  on  the  west  side  of 
Lisiansky  Island,  which  lies  in  lat.  25°  59'  N.,  long.  173°  44'  W.  It 
is  sometimes  called  Lassion's  and  sometimes  Neavas's  Island.  It  is 
but  little  elevated  above  the  surface  of  the  ocean,  and  cannot  be  seen 
from  the  mast-head  at  a  greater  distance  than  ten  miles.  It  is  only 
aJjout  six  miles  in  circumference,  presenting  a  few  small  spots  of  vege- 
tation, consisting  of  coarse  grass  and  a  little  shrubbery.  The  whole 
surface  of  this  little  island  is  ndarly  covered  with  rookeries  of  difierent 
kinds  of  birds,  among  which  are  whale-birds,  wake-up-kittles,  man- 
of-war  birds,  gulls,  and  tropic-birds.  On  the  shores  we  found  an 
abundance  of  sea-elephants  and  green  turtles,  but  nowhere  on  the 
inland  could  we  obtain  fresh  water. 

'  Coral  reefs  nm  off  from  this  island  in  two  directions ;  and  as  some 
remuneration  for  their  own  dangers,  they  form  a  safe  anchorage  bc» 
tween  them.  One  of  these  reefs  runs  from  the  north  end  of  the  island 
to  the  north-west,  about  four  miles,  the  sea  breaking  on  its  weather 
side.  The  other  reef  rtms  off  from  the  south-south-west  part  of  the 
island,  in  a  south-west  direction,  about  seven  miles,  upon  the  eastern 
side  of  which  the  sea  breaks  all  the  year  round.  On  the  west  side  of 
the  island,  between  the.se  two  reefs,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore, 
tlicre  is  a  safe  and  smooth  harbour  for  ships,  w'hicli  may  ride  at 
anchor  in  from  ten  to  four  fathoms  of  water,  sand  and  coral  bottom. 

'i'here  is  one  word  of  caution  necessary  to  navigators,  in  sailing 
west  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  between  the  parallels  of  20°  and  30°  N.. 
In  erossinsf  between  these  two  latitudes,  a  vessel  should  never  run  in 
thick  weather ;  and  even  in  the  clearest  of  weather,  they  should  always 
have  one  or  two  men  at  the  mast-head,  day  and  night.  These  reefs, 
which  are  all  formed  of  coral,  may  be  seen  from  the  mast-head,  by 
their  light  reflecting  on  the  top  of  the  water,  day  or  night,  double  the 
distance  that  they  can  be  seen  from  the  deck,  and  in  time  sufficient  to 
avoid  them,  if  there  be  a  breeze  of  w'ind. 

As  another  reason  for  keeping  a  look-out  from  the  mast-head,  I 
would  observe,  that  in  running  free,  or  before  the  wind,  a  vessel  is 
running  on  the  back  of  the  breakers,  the  foam  of  which  cannot  be  seen 


July.]  PEARL  AKD  HERMES  ISLANDS.  217 

from  the  deck  until  the  vessel  is  close  on  board  of  it.  But  from  the 
mast-head  a  man  can  see  the  foam  over  the  breakers  at  a  sufficient 
distance  to  give  time  enough  to  tack  sliip,  or  haul  olf.  From  a  long 
experience  in  these  seas,  I  know  these  precautions  to  be  necessary ; 
and,  if  observed,  they  may  prevent  many  serious  calamities.  Not 
only  is  it  necessary  to  guard  against  unknown  reefs  and  islands,  but 
also  against  islands  which  have  been  vi.sited,  and  nre  erroneously  laid 
down  on  the  charts ;  some  of  which  I  have  found  to  be  one  and  two 
degrees  out  of  the  way  in  longitude,  particularly  in  this  part  of  the 
Pacific.  The  lead  and  line  are  of  very  little  use  in  these  seas,  as  the 
islands  and  reefs  are  nearly  ail  surroujided  with  very*  deep  water,  close 
to  the  breakers. 

July  StJi. — From  Lisiausky  Island  we  stood  to  the  westward,  with 
a  steady  north-east  trade-wind  and  pleasant  weather  for  two  days, 
during  which  time  we  saw  many  sperm-whales  and  a  great  number  of 
sea-birds.  On  Friday,  the  8th,  we  landed  on  Pearl  and  Hermes 
Island ;  or,  more  properl}',  a  group  of  sand-pits  and  coral  reefs,  so 
called  on  account  of  two  British  whale-ships  having  been  lost  here  on 
the  same  night,  one  of  which  was  named  the  Pearl,  and  the  other  the 
Hermes.  Thev  both  went  ashore  at  nearly  the  same  time,  and  met 
their  fate  about  ten  miles  from  each  other.  These  dangerous  reefs  he 
so  low,  and  so  near  the  surface  of  the  water,  that  the  wreck  of  the 
Pearl  was  seen  by  the  man  at  our  mast-head  before  he  discerned  the 
land,  which  cannot  be  seen  more  than  six  or  seven  miles  from  a 
ship's  top. 

The  Pearl  and  Hermes  were  cast  away  on  the  east  side  of  the 
island,  with  a  light  breeze  from  north-east,  attended  with  rain.  Both 
vessels  bilged  in  a  few  minutes  after  they  struck.  They  were  fortu- 
nately favoured  with  moderate  weather  for  several  days,  which  enabled 
them  to  save  all  their  water  and  provisions,  tocfether  with  every  other 
article  of  value,  as  well  as  a  part  of  their  oil.  When  this  was  effected, 
all  hands  set  to  work  in  building  a  vessel  of  about  thirty  tons,  from 
the  timber  and  planks  of  the  two  wrecks,  which  they  completed  in 
six  weeks,  when  they  embarked  on  board  of  her  for  the  Sandwich 
Ir^lands,  where  thev  arrived  in  safety. 

The  situation  of  this  island,  or  rather  of  the  southern  extremity  of 
the  reef  which  puts  off  from  the  south  end  of  it,  is  in  lat.  27^  31'  N., 
long.  170^  28'  W.  The  north-west  extremity  of  the  reef  which  puts 
off  from  the  northern  island  is  in  lat.  28°  22'  N.,  long.  177°  32'  W. 
The  eastern  point  of  the  group  is  in  long.  176''  11'  W.,  lat.  27°  41'  N. 
From  the  north  and  south  extreme  points  there  is  one  continuation  of 
small  islands,  covered  with  sand,  and  rocks  which  appear  to  have  been 
once  in  a  fluid  stale. 

The  whole  gi-oup  presents  the  form  of  a  crescent,  the  concave  side 
of  which,  facing  to  the  west-south-west,  encloses  an  extensive  bay, 
with  good  anchorage  all  over  it,  in  from  twenty-five  to  four  fathoms 
of  water.  Here  I  have  seen  pearl-oysters  and  hiuche  de  mer ;  but  it 
is  difficult  to  procure  them,  as  there  are  very  few  lying  m  shoal  water, 
and  perhaps  not  very  plenty  at  the  greatest  depth.  There  is  an 
abundance  of  fine  scale-fish  in  this  bay,  of  various  kinds.     The  sea- 


218  BYERS'S  ISLAND.  [1825. 

elepliant  and  sea-leopard  resort  to  the  islands  in  the  summer  season, 
in  large  rookeries,  and  the  former  are  perfectly  tame.  Great  numbers 
of  green  turtles  are  found  on  the  sand-beaches,  where  they  come  to 
deposite  their  egg:s.  The  hawk's-bill  turtle,  also,  sometimes  visits  this 
place,  but  in  small  numbers. 

The  water  is  very  bold  on  the  east  side  of  this  group,  there  being 
a  depth  of  one  hundred  fathoms  within  three  times  that  distance  from 
shore.  On  the  west  side,  however,  the  water  runs  off  shallow  for  a 
considerable  distance,  to  thirty-five  fathoms.  From  thence  it  deepens 
very  suddenly  to  one  hundred  and  twenty  fathoms ;  and  half  a  mile 
farther  off-shore  no  soundings  are  to  be  found.  The  rookeries  of  sea- 
fowl  on  this  group  bear  no  comparison  to  those  on  Lisiansky  Island, 
owing,  perhaps,  to  the  island's  being  so  very  narrow ;  not  one  of  them 
exceeding  a  hundred  fathoms  in  width,  from  east  to  w-est,  and  all  of 
them  are  destitute  of  vegetation.  From  the  lava  and  pumice-stone  to 
be  seen  here,  I  am  led  to  believe  that  this  whole  group  has  beeft,  at 
some  distant  period,  one  tremendous  volcano.  There  is  no  fresh 
water  to  be  found  here ;  but  turtle  and  fish  can  be  had  in  abundance, 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year. 

July  llth. — We  now  took  our  leave  of  this  dangerous  group,  and 
steered  to  the  westward,  a  little  northerly,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  north- 
east-by-north, the  M'eather  still  pleasant.  It  is  here  proper  to  remark, 
that  between  Pearl  and  Hermes  and  the  Sandwich  Islands,  we  tried 
the  current  several  times,  and  uniformly  found  it  setting  about  west-by- 
south,  from  three-fourths  of  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  quarter  an  hour. 
After  fresh  trades  we  found  the  current  stronoest. 

July  I2th. — We  crossed  the  meridian  of  180°,  the  ne  plus  ultra  of 
longitude,  .in  lat.  28°  30'  north,  and  on  the  13th  we  landed  on  Byers's 
Island,  situated  in  lat.  28°  32'  north,  long.  177°  4'  east.  This  island 
is  moderately  elevated,  and  has  some  bushes  and  spots  of  vegetation. 
It  is  about  four  miles  in  circumference,  and  has  good  anchorage  on  the 
west-south-west  side,  with  fifteen  fathoms  of  water,  sand  and  coral 
bottom.  There  are  no  dangers  around  this  island,  excepting  on  the 
south-east  side,  where  there  is  a  coral  reef,  rmming  to  the  southward 
about  two  miles.  Sea-birds,  green  turtles,  and  sea-elephants  resort  to 
this  island ;  and  a  plenty  of  fine  fish  may  be  caught  with  hook  and 
line  about  its  shores.  Fresh  water  may  be  had  here  from  the  south- 
south-west  side  of  the  island,  which  is  of  volcanic  origin. 

At  6,  P.  M.,  we  bore  up  and  stood  to  the  north-west ;  and  at  4,  A.  M., 
the  men  aloft  saw  breakers  ahead.  We  then  tacked  ship,  and  stood 
to  the  south-east  one  hour,  when  we  again  tacked,  and  stood  for  the 
reef.  At  6,  A.  M.,  we  were  within  half  a  mile  of  the  breakers,  and  no 
land  in  sight.  We  bore  up,  and  passed  around  the  west  end  of  the 
reef,  which  was  distant  about  two  miles.  We  then  hauled  on  a  wind 
to  the  north,  the  M-ater  being  perfectly  smooth  ;  and  after  running  along 
under  the  lee  of  the  reef  at  the  rate  of  seven  miles  an  hour,  for  two 
hours,  on  a  north-by-west  course,  we  saw  the  land  from  the  mast-head, 
bearing  north-west.  We  immediately  kept  off  for  it,  and  at  10,  A.  M., 
we  were  close  in  with  a  small  low  island,  covered  with  sea-fowl,  and 
the  shores  of  which  were  lined  with  sea-elephants.     Green   turtles 


Aug.]  CLIPPERTON'S  ROCK.  219 

were  found  here  in  great  abundance,  and  two  hawk's-bill  turtles  were 
seen.  This  island  presents  all  the  usual  indications  of  volcanic  origin. 
On  the  west  side  of  this  island  there  is  a  reef  which  runs  off  about 
fifteen  miles,  while  that  on  the  south-east  side  extends  about  thirty- 
miles,  in  the  direction  of  south-south-east.  These  reefs  are  formed  of 
coral,  and  afford  good  anchorage  on  the  south-west  side ;  but  on  the 
east  side  the  water  is  bold  close  to  the  reef.  The  island  is  low,  being 
nearly  level  with  the  surface  of  the  sea,  and  about  four  miles  in  circum- 
ference.    Its  centre  is  in  lat.  29°  57'  north,  long.  174°  31'  east. 

Convinced  by  a  careful  examination  that  this  island  afforded  neither 
furs  nor  other  valuable  articles,  we  left  it  to  its  solitude,  and  steered  to 
the  north  on  a  wind,  intending  to  get  into  the  westerly  variables,  and 
run  down  to  the  western  coast  of  America.  This  was  Thursday,  the 
14th  of  July  ;  and  on  the  Sunday  following,  being  in  lat.  34°  11'  north, 
long.  172°  14'  east,  we  took  the  wind  from  north-north-west  in  a  squall, 
and  immediately  tacked  ship,  and  stood  to  the  north-east.  On  Mon- 
day, the  18th,  being  in  lat.  35°  2'  north,  long.  174°  22'  east,  we  took 
a  fine  breeze  from  north-west,  with  fair  weather.  The  winds  con- 
tinued from  west  to  north-north-west  until  we  were  in  lat.  32°  15' 
north,  long.  129°  30'  west. 

From  the  19th  of  July  we  continued  making  an  east  course  ;  and  on 
Saturday,  the  23d,  being  in  lat.  34°  17'  north,  long.  170°  42' west,  we 
saw  about  two  thousand  sperm  whale  lying  feeding :  we  likewise  saw 
sperm  .whale  on  the  two  following  days,  in  shoals  of  from  fifty  to  a 
hundred.  On  the  27th,  being  in  lat.  34°  11'  north,  long.  156°  47'* 
west,  we  again  saw  sperm  whale,  after  which  we  saw  nothing  worth 
mentioning  until  Thursday,  the  4th  of  August,  when  we  once  more  fell 
in  with  a  large  school  of  sperm  whale  in  lat.  32°  15'  north,  long.  129° 
30'  west.  We  now  took  the  wind  from  the  north,  with  fair  weather, 
and  steered  to  the  south-east  for  Clipperton's  Rock.  In  lat.  27°  0' 
north,  we  took  the  wind  from  north-east,  which  continued  until  the  17th 
of  August. 

Aug.  17 th. — We  arrived  at  Clipperton's  Rock,  and  at  4,  P.  M.,  came 
to  anchor  on  the  south-south-west  side  of  the  island,  in  eight  fathoms 
of  water,  sandy  bottom,  about  one-fourth  of  a  mile  off-shore. 

This  island  is  situated  in  lat.  10°  15'  north,  long.  109°  28'  west,  and 
exhibits  unequivocal  proofs  of  volcanic  origin.  It  is  low  all  around 
near  the  water,  but  a  high  rock  rises  in  the  centre,  which  may  be  seen 
at  the  distance  of  six  leagues.  It  produces  a  little  shrubbery  and  some 
coarse  grass,  among  which  I  think  fresh  water  might  be  found  by  dig- 
ging. The  whole  island  is  literally  covered  with  sea-birds,  such  as 
gulls,  whale-birds,  gannets,  and  the  booby.  There  are  also  a  few  small 
land-birds,  which  were  probably  blown  from  the  American  coast  during 
the  hun-icane  months.  Fur-seal  and  sea-elephant  resort  here  in 
small  numbers  in  the  proper  seasons,  and  green  turtle  come  hither  to 
deposite  their  eggs.  Among  the  few  vegetable  productions  of  this 
island  we  found  a  plant  resembling  sarsaparilla,  which  badly  poisoned 
several  of  the  crew  who  handled  it. 

After  taking  what  few  fur-seal  could  be  found  about  the  island,  we 

*  In  tliis  position  the  inhabitants  of  Cape-town,  on  the  southern  extremity  of  Africa,  were  oac 
aeiipoiles,  the  full  diameter  of  the  earth  being  between  us. 


220  SEARCH  FOR  ST.  VINCENT  ISLANDS.  [1825. 

got  under  way,  and  sailed  for  the  Gallapagos  Islands,  on  our  way  to 
which  we  had  another  wild-goose  chase  for  land  that  does  not  exist.  1 
allude  to  two  islands,  which  were  said  to  have  been  seen  by  Captain 
Antonio  Martinus,  of  the  ship  St.  Vincent,  while  sailing  from  Panama 
to  Macao.  These  islands  were  said  to  be  in  lat.  7°  21'  north,  and 
long.  127°  4'  west,  lying  north  and  south,  with  a  boat-channel  between 
ihera  ;  moderately  elevated,  well  wooded,  abounding  with  cocoanuts,  and 
covered  with  fur-seals.  They  were  also  said  to  be  about  twenty  miles 
in  circumference,  with  several  small  islands  lying  ofl'  their  west  ends, 
forming  good  harbours  between  them  and  the  main  islands.  They 
were  reported  to  have  been  discovered  on  the  17ih  of  April,  1789,  and 
that  the  fur-seal,  withAvhich  they  were  literally  filled,  were  so  tame 
that  they  would  not  move  out  of  the  way  of  the  crew  who  had  landed 
to  procure  cocoanuts  and  bread-fruit. 

This  information  I  obtained  from  the  priest  of  the  mission  of  Rosa- 
rio,  ^vhile  I  was  lying  in  the  bay  of  St.  Francis,  in  Old  California,  in 
the  month  of  April  preceding.  This  reverend  padre  was  chaplain  on 
board  of  the  ship  St.  Vincent  at  the  time  of  the  discovery,  and  he  told 
me  that  he  was  on  shore  every  day  that  the  ship  lay  at  the  islands. 
The  holy  father  permitted  me  to  copy  these  particulars  from  his  own  pri- 
vate journal,  which  states  that  they  arrived  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  on 
the  12th  of  May,  1789.  This  allowed  them  a  passage  of  thirteen 
days  from  the  new  discovered  islands,  which  might  easily  be  the  case. 
The  manuscript  from  which  I  copied  these  alleged  facts  had  the  ap- 
pearance of  having  been  written  forty  or  fifty  years  ;  and  Father  St. 
Clara  assured  me  that  I  was  the  first  man  he  had  fallen  in  with  in  search 
of  fur-seals ;  and  that  he  was  very  happy  to  have  it  in  his  power  to 
give  me  this  information,  which  he  was  positive  would  be  the  means 
of  making  me  a  profitable  voyage. 

I  was  further  informed,  that  at  the  time  the  ship  St.  Vincent  left 
these  new-discovered  islands,  which  was  twelve  days  after  her  arrival 
there,  a  tremendous  volcano  was  blazing  in  the  centre  of  each  of  the 
large  islands ;  and  that  three  of  the  small  ones,  which  lay  near  them 
on  the  west,  were  also  vomiting  smoke  from  their  centres.  They  took 
away  with  them  five  thousand  cocoanuts,  two  hundred  and  fifty  bread- 
fruits, four  hundred  land  terrapins,  and  twenty-five  green  turtle. 

Relying  on  the  correctness  of  the  foregoing  information  I  resolved 
to  take  an  early  opportunity  of  seeking  for  these  islands  ;  and  such  an 
opportunity  occurred  during  our  passage  from  Clipperton's  Reck  to 
the  Gallapagos  Islands.  We  accordingly  steered  for  the  parallel  of  lat- 
itude stated  in  the  padre's  journal,  two  degrees  east  of  the  meridian 
there  mentioned.  We  continued  this  course,  with  a  fine  breeze  from 
north-north-east  to  north-east-by-east,  with  pleasant  weather,  for  one 
week. 

Aitg.  28t?i. — On  Sunday  w^e  found  ourselves  in  the  latitude  and 
longitude  assigned  to  the  St.  Vincent  Islands,  without  perceiving  any 
indications  of  land,  other  than  discoloured  water.  We  tried  for  sound- 
ings with  one  hundred  and  twenty  fathom  of  line,  but  found  no  bottom. 
We  then  stood  five  degrees  to  the  west,  on  the  same  parallel,  with  no 
better  success.  After  that  we  beat  up  to  windward  between  the  lati- 
tude of  7°  10'  and  7°  30',  until  we  were  in  the  longitude  of  122°  lO'i 


Nov.]  CITY  OF  PIURA.  221 

west,  -without  seeing  any  thing  that  indicated  land  except  discolotired 
water.     We  tried  several  times  for  soundings,  but  found  no  bottom. 

We  now  stood  to  the  north  as  far  as  the  latitude  of  7°  50',  and  in 
that  parallel  ran  to  the  westward  until  we  were  in  long.  130°  7'  west. 
We  then  stood  to  the  south,  to  the  latitude  of  7°  10',  and  beat  up  to  the 
eastward  between  the  latitude  of  6^  50'  and  7'  10',  to  long.  120°  30' 
west.  In  short,  having  wasted  forty-six  days  in  this  fruitless  search, 
we  were  satisfied  that  no  such  land  existed  within  many  leagues  of  the 
location  assigned  to  it. 

October  13M. — On  Thursday,  the  13lh  of  October,  we  resumed  our 
course  to  the  Gallapagos  Islands,  with  light  variable  winds  from  north- 
east to  east-south-east,  and  fair  weather,  which  continued  nearly'"  a 
fortnight. 

October  27tJi. — We  arrived  at  the  Gallapagos  Islands  on  Thursday, 
the  27th,  and  at  eleven,  A.  M.,  anchored  in  the  south  bay  of  Albemarle, 
otherwise  called  Elizabeth  Bay,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  half  a  mile 
from  the  land  to  the  south,  with  sandy  bottom.  The  volcano  of  Nar- 
borough,  which  broke  out  in  February,  was  still  burning,  but  very 
moderately. 

November  5tli. — Having  examined  the  south  end  of  Albemarle,  and 
taken  a  few  fur-seal,  we  got  under  way  and  sailed  for  Indefatigable 
Island,  one  of  the  same  group,  where  we  arrived  on  Saturday,  the  5th 
of  November,  and  sent  all  hands  on  shore  in  search  of  terrapins. 

November  lOth. — This  duty  was  performed  with  so  much  alacrity, 
that  in  four  days'  time  we  had  taken  on  board  one  hundred  and  eighty- 
seven  of  these  valuable  animals.  We  then  got  under  wav  on  Thurs- 
day,  the  10th,  and  set  sail  for  the  Bay  of  Sechura  on  the  coast  of  Peru, 
about  two  hundred  and  thirty  leagues  south-east  of  the  Gallapagos 
Islands.  We  had  the  wind  from  east-north-east  to  south-south-east, 
and  fair  weather  with  little  interruption  for  more  than  a  week. 

November  19M. — On  Saturday,  the  19th,  we  arrived  in  front  of  the 
river  Sechura,  or  Piura,  as  it  was  originally  named,  and  came  to  anchor 
at  four,  P.  M.,  in  three  fathoms  of  water,  mud  and  clay  bottom,  half  a 
mile  from  the  shore. 

This  river,  which  generally  goes  by  the  name  of  Sechura,  from  the 
town  and  desert  so  called,  and  is  so  marked  on  the  charts,  was  origin- 
ally named  Piura,  from  the  province  in  which  it  rises  and  to  which  it 
gives  fertility.  Its  entrance  is  in  lat.  5°  31'  south,  long.  80°  44'  west ; 
but  its  source  is  many  miles  farther  north,  from  whence  it  flows  in  a 
south-west  direction,  and  empties  into  Sechura  Bay  north  of  Point 
Aguja,  or  Needle  Point.  On  the  south  bank  of  this  river,  about  two 
miles  from  the  seashore,  is  the  town  of  Sechura,  of  which  I  shall  speak 
presently,  and  some  sixty  miles  up  the  river  is  the  celebrated  city  of 
Piura,  in  the  bishopric  of  Truxillo,  and  about  twenty-five  miles  south- 
east of  Payta. 

The  city  of  Piura,  which  is  the  capital  of  the  province  of  that  name, 
is  in  lat.  3°  15'  south,  long.  80°  40'  west.  It  is  celebrated  as  being 
the  first  city  that  was  built  by  the  Spaniards  after  their  arrival  in  the 
New  World,  and  as  being  founded  by  Don  Francisco  Pizarro  in  the  year 
1631.     This  successful  chieftain  also  built  the  first  church  in  it.     The 


222  TOWN  OF  SECHURA.  [1825. 

city  was  commenced  in  the  valley  of  Targasale,  and  called  St.  Miguel 
di  Piura ;  but  was  afterward  removed  to  its  present  situation  on 
account  of  the  superior  salubrity  of  air.  What  was  gained  in  atmo- 
sphere, liowever,  was  lost  in  soil  by  the  change,  for  it  now  stands  on  a 
sandy  plain,  though  the  adjacent  country  abounds  in  wood,  and  pro- 
duces cotton,  sugar,  and  maize. 

The  houses  of  Piura  are  constructed  citlier  of  bricks  baked  in  the 
sun,  or  of  a  kind  of  cane  called  quincasj  and  they  arc  generally  only  one 
story  high.  The  population  has  been  variously  estimated  by  difierent 
travellers,  the  meaii  of  whose  calculations  would  be  about  twelve 
thousand  souls.  There  is  a  fine  hospital  in  the  city,  under  the  care  of 
the  Bethlehemites. 

The  climate  is  hot  and  dry,  and  it  is  seldom  known  to  rain  for  ten 
months  out  of  twelve,  though  the  sun  is  often  obscured  for  many  weeks 
together.  Still  the  country  is  by  no  means  unhealthy.  In  ascending 
the  uplands  between  the  river  and  the  Andes,  to  the  distance  of  ten 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  the  climate  seems  to  be  a  mixture  of 
spring  and  autumn ;  while  still  farther  east,  at  the  height  of  fifteen 
thousand  feet,  commences  the  region  of  perpetual  winter.  Here  active 
volcanoes  are  burning  and  raging  within,  while  all  without  is  clad  in 
eternal  ice.  But  my  observations  must  be  confined  to  a  less  elevated 
region,  near  the  seacoast. 

Here  are  immense  forests  of  pine,  cedar,  acacia,  and  cecba-trees, 
of  gigantic  growth,  together  with  an  abundance  of  others  of  rich  and 
valuable  qualities  for  cabinet-work  or  dying.  These  forests  are  inhab- 
ited by  wild  animals  of  various  descriptions,  and  abound  with  birds  of 
beautiful  plumage.  Various  kinds  of  reptiles  and  venomous  insects 
are  found  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  the  alligator  is  no  stranger  to 
its  waters.  The  sand  of  its  banks  is  mixed  with  gold,  which  is  annually 
•washed  down  from  the  mountains.  In  some  seasons  this  river  becomes 
almost  dry,  and  its  tributary  streams  entirely  disappear. 

The  town  of  Sechura,  as  I  have  already  stated,  is  built  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  river,  between  two  and  three  miles  only  from  the  ocean. 
This  town  contains  about  three  hundred  houses  and  a  handsome  brick 
church.  The  houses  are  principally  constructed  of  cane  or  bamboo 
basket-work,  with  sharp  peaked  roofs  thatched  with  a  tall  grass  peculiar 
to  the  country,  and  though  not  very  prepossessing  either  in  their  exte- 
rior appearance  or  interior  accommodations,  arc  nevertheless  \vell 
adapted  to  a  climate  vhere  it  seldom  rains. 

The  population  of  Sechura  comprises  about  fifteen  hundred  inhabit- 
ants, who  are  principally  Indians,  or  a  mixture  of  Spanish  blood  with 
that  of  the  Sana  and  Piura  tribes.  They  constitute  between  four  and 
five  hundred  families,  and  are  chiefly  employed  in  fishing  or  driving 
mules.  They  are  very  poor,  but  extremely  industrious  and  economical. 
The  women  employ  themselves,  when  other  domestic  avocations  do 
not  prevent,  in  spinning,  weaving,  and  making  garments  for  their  hus- 
bands and  children.  The  men  resort  to  an  artificial  mode  of  sustaining 
their  strength  while  at  work  without  food.  They  chew  the  leaves  of 
a  plant  called  coca,  which  they  mix  with  a  kind  of  chalk  or  white  eartji 
called  maubi.     This  is  very  nourishing,  and  when  used  freely  will 


f^v.]  TOWN  AND  BAY  OF  SECHURA.  223 

enable  them  to  labour  two  or  three  days  without  eating  or  drinking. 
But  if  their  store  become  exhausted,  they  soon  feel  their  strength 
decay,  and  must  procure  a  fresh  supply.  The  same  substance  also 
preserves  the  teeth  and  fortifies  the  stomach. 

The  fishing  vessels  of  these  people  are  very  ingeniously  constructed, 
though  somewhat  rude  in  the  workmanship.  From  five  to  eight  logs 
of  the  cabbage-tree,  from  thirty  to  forty-five  feet  in  length,  according 
to  the  intended  capacity  of  the  vessel,  are  fastened  together  with  ropes 
made  of  the  bark  which  is  peeled  off  the  logs.  The  large  or  butt-ends 
of  these  logs  are  all  laid  one  way,  and  they  form  the  n^ad  of  the  vessel. 
About  ten  or  twelve  feet  farther  aft  a  mast  is.  erected,  secured  by 
,shrouds  and  back-stays,  on  which  they  set  a  large  square  sail.  With 
this  simple  rigging  these  rafts  will  sail  six  or  eight  miles  an  hour,  on 
a  wind,  making  httle  or  no  lee-way,  which  is  prevented  by  a  number 
of  paddles  that  are  thrust  down  between  the  logs  and  serve  the  pur- 
pose of  lee-boards.  Abaft  the  mast  about  ten  feet  from  the  stern  is  a 
platform,  elevated  two  or  three  feet,  on  which  they  sit,  eat,  and  sleep. 
I  have  seen  these  catamarans  forty  or  fifty  miles  from  land. 

There  is  but  very  little  trade  to  this  place,  though  the  inland  plan- 
tations are  very  productive.  On  the  coast,  between  the  town  and  the 
shore,  the  land  presents  a  xery  barren  appearance ;  but  the  country 
through  which  the  river  flows  produces  fruits  and  vegetables  of  almost 
every  description  that  are  found  m  Peru,  and  these  can  be  had  at  a 
low  price.  The  plantations  depend  for  moisture  almost  entirely  on  the 
night  dews,  which  are  very  copious. 

Of  the  character  and  manners  of  the  inhabitants  of  Sechura  I  mijjht 
speak  in  favourable  terms.  They  are  friendly,  hospitable,  industrious, 
and  economical;  remarkably  quick  of  apprehension,  penetratiug, 
shrewd,  and  decisive  in  their  judgments.  They  are  also  cleanly  in 
their  persons,  being  in  the  constant  habit  of  bathing  every  morning 
before  sunrise,  either  in  the  river  or  at  the  seashore.  This  is  doubt- 
less one  cause  of  the  uniform  good  health  they  enjoy.  In  their  man- 
ners they  are  lively,  sociable,  polite,  and  liberal. 

The  usual  dress  of  the  men  is  a  cotton  shirt  reachmg  to  the  knees, 
beneath  which  they  wear  a  pair  of  loose  trousers  reaching  to  the 
jniddle  of  the  calf.  The  females  wear  a  long  cotton  gown  reaching 
to  the  ankles,  with  a  mantle  of  baize  or  some  lighter  cloth  over  their 
shoulders.  On  holydays,  festivals,  <fec.,  they  assume  the  Spanish 
dress.  Some  of  them  are  very  skilful  in  the  use  of  medical  herbs  and 
plants,  with  which  this  part  of  the  coast  abounds  ;  but  tliey  are  very 
tenacious  of  the  art,  and  are  careful  to  keep  the  secret  from  Europeans. 

Althoush  most  of  them  have  embraced  the  Roman  Catholic  faith, 
they  all  retain  more  or  less  of  their  former  mythological  notions. 
Earthquakes  they  be-ieve  to  be  caused  by  the  footsteps  of  the  Almighty 
"when  he  condescends  to  v/alk  upon  the  earth.  Under  this  impression, 
whenever  they  hear  an  unusual  or  alarming  noise  they  rush  out  of 
their  huts,  jumping  about  and  stamping  their  feet,  at  the  same  time 
exclaiming  in  a  loud  voice,  "  Here  am  I !     Here  am  I !" 

The  bay  of  Sechura  is  spacious,  safe,  and  easy  of  access,  and  it 
affords  smooth  anchorage  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.    It  is,  perhaps, 


te*- 


224  SAILING  DIRECTIONS.  [1825. 

the  most  eligible  place  on  tlie  western  coast  of  South  America  for 
whale-ships  to  stop  at  for  the  purpose  of  coopering  their  oil  and  pro- 
curing refreshments,  as  the  latter  can  be  obtained  in  barter,  and  there 
is  very  little  chance  or  inducement  for  any  of  the  crew  to  leave  the 
vessel.  Here  also  they  are  exempt  from  port  charges,  and  a  ship  may 
safely  ride  by  one  anchor  all  the  year  round.  On  the  south-east  side 
of  the  bay  there  are  extensive  salt  ponds,  of  which  very  little  use  is 
made  by  tbe  inhabitants  except  in  salting  their  fish. 

There  are  no  43ngers  in  the  way  of  a  ship  in  entering  this  bay, 
either  from  the  north  or  the  west.  The  land  at  the  head  of  it  is  very 
low,  and  in  running  for  the  river  the  brick  church  in  the  town  will  be 
seen  sooner  than  the  land  to  the  westward  of  it.  Vessels  bound  hither 
from  the  south  must  first  make  Aguja,  or  Needle  Point,  which  appears 
like  a  double  land,  from  the  westward,  and  always  has  a  heavy  sea 
breaking  upon  it ;  there  are  also  some  sunken  rocks  lying  half  a  mile 
to  the  westward  of  the  point.  It  is  therefore  necessary  to  give  it  a 
good  berth,  particidarly  at  night,  as  then  the  wind  near  the  land  gene- 
rally dies  away  to  a  calm,  and  the  swell  is  ahvaj's  heaving  in-shore 
from  the  westward-.  Soundings  will  be  found  a  long  way  oft'  shore  ; 
and  should  a  ship  be  becalmed  within  two  miles  of  the  land,  she  may 
anchor  in  twenty  fathoms  of  water,  sandy  bottom. 

When  a  vessel  is  fifteen  miles  north  of  Point  Aguja,  she  will  be 
abreast  of  Cape  Nero,  which  is  the  southern  point  of  the  bay,  lying  in 
lat.  5°  44'  south,  long.  80^  59'  west.  Between  these  two  points  are 
manv  sunken  rocks  running  off"  shore  to  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a 
quarter.  After  passing  Cape  Nero,  giving  it  a  berth  of  two  miles,  the 
bay  of  Scchura  opens  to  the  view,  where  there  is  clear  ground  and  a 
good  shelter  from  the  swell  of  the  sea.  The  navigator  may  then  haul 
into  the  bay,  east  a  little  northerly,  when  he  will  experience  a  decrease 
of  water.  As  he  advances  up  the  bay  he  must  steer  east  and  then 
east-by-south,  when  he  will  find  the  depth  of  water  lessen  from  sixteen 
to  five,  and  close  in  shore  to  three  fathoms,  mud  and  sand  bottom.  By 
keeping  to  the  windward  of  the  town  the  soundmgs  will  prove  more 
regular,  as  the  bottom  is  very  uneven  abreast  of  the  town  and  river, 
where  are  many  sand-spits  and  shoals,  with  a  westerly  swell  rolling  in 
over  them.  But  in  the  weather  part  of  the  bay  the  water  is  perfectly 
smooth  and  shallows  gradually  in  approaching  the  shore.  Should  a 
ship  take  the  ground  here,  she  could  receive  no  damage,  and  might  be 
easily  got  off  at  high-water. 

It  is  a  remarkable  fact,  and  worthy  the  notice  of  scientific  men,  that 
the  whole  extent  of  seacoast  on  the  western  side  of  the  American  con- 
tinent presents  unequivocal  marks  of  volcanic  eruptions,  such  as  pumice- 
stone  and  rocks  thr.t  have  once  been  in  a  state  of  fusion,  which  I  have 
found  at  the  wash  of  the  shores  along  the  whole  ranjje  of  coast.  This 
is  the  case,  also,  with  respect  to  the  islands  in  the  Pacific  and  Indian 
oceans,  of  which  I  have  never  visited  one  of  any  dimensions  that  was 
not  evidently  of  volcanic  origin,  or  the  remains  of  a  volcanic  mountain. 
Each  island  in  the  Gallapagos  group  is  of  this  description,  as  I  am  fully 
convinced  by  a  careful  inspection. 

Noxieinhcr  2\st, — On  Monday,  the  21st,  we  got  under  way,  and  reii 


Dec]  BAY  AND  TOWN  OF  PAYTA.  •         225 

down  to  Cape  Nero,  where  we  commenced  taking  fur-seal.  Between 
this  cape  and  the  town  of  Sechura,  the  land  is  notliing  but  a  barren 
sandy  desert,  destitute  of  vegetation  and  fresh  water.  This  desert  or 
waste  of  sand,  is  ninety  miles  in  extent,  of  difficult  and  dangerous 
passage.  The  rocks  on  the  seashore,  between  Cape  Nero  and  Point 
Aguja,  are  nothing  but  one  mass  of  lava  produced  by  volcanoes. 

Deccmher  2d. — We  continued  hunting  seals  between  these  two 
capes,  with  tolerably  good  success,  untii  Friday,  the  2d  of  December, 
when  we  steered  for  the  Lobos  de  Payta  Islands,  which  lie  about 
eighteen  leagues  from  Point  Aguja,  in  the  direction  of  north-half-west. 
These  two  small  islands  are  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  main- 
land, between  which  and  them  is  a  passage  in  which  the  least  depth  of 
water  is  ten  fathoms.  This  part  of  the  coast  may  be  easily  known 
by  a  remarkable  saddle-hill  called  8illa  de  Payta,  to  the  northward  of 
which  are  the  harbour  and  village  or  town  of  Payta. 

In  running  along  diis  coast,  a  ship  may  pass  within  half  a  mile  of 
the  west  side  of  these  islands  of  Lobos  de  ^Payta,  or  half-way  be- 
tween them  and  the  main  with  perfect  safety.  There  is  likewise  good 
anchorage  on  the  east  side  of  the  islands,  in  from  eight  to  four  fathoms 
of  water,  sandy  bottom,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  islands, 
"which  are  merely  barren  lava  rocks  produced  by  some  former  volcano. 

Decc?nber  12///. — On  iNIonday,  the  12th,  we  anchored  in  the  harbour 
of  Payta,  on  the  south-south-west  side  of  the  bay,  about  half  a  mile 
off-shore,  in  five  fathoms  of  water,  mud  and  sandy  bottom.  The  west 
point,  that  forms  this  harbour,  lies  in  latitude  5°  1'  S.,  long.  80°  57' 
ArV.  In  many  respects,  this  is  justly  esteemed  the  best  port  on  the 
coast.  In  entering  it,  there  are  no  dangers  in  the  way,  giving  the 
shore  a  quarter  of  a  mile's  berth ;  and  when  once  at  anchor,  we  are 
in  a  snug  harbour,  which  is  perfectly  safe,  and  sheltered  from  all  winds, 
excepting  from  north-west  to  north-north-east,  which  never  blow  here 
but  in  very  light  breezes. 

The  town  of  Payta,  or  Paita,  or  St.  Michel  de  Payta,  was  founded 
by  Don  Francisco  Pizarro,  in  the  year  1531.  It  is  a  mere  village  as 
to  size,  though  formerly  it  was  a  place  of  considerable  trade.  The 
houses  are  constructed  of  split  canes  and  mud,  covered  with  leaves, 
snd  are  generally  two  stories  high.  The  only  exception  to  this  style 
of  building  is  the  residence  of  the  governor,  whose  habitation  is  built 
of  stone.  This  town  can  boast  a  parish  church  and  chapel,  dedicated 
to  our  Lady  of  Mercy.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  sandy  barren  soil,  and 
depends  for  water  and  provisions  on  the  village  of  Colan,  which  is 
twelve  miles  north  of  it  on  the  same  bay,  and  near  which  flows  the 
river  Chera.  The  Indians  of  Colan  are  obliged  to  send  daily  to  Paita, 
one  or  two  balsas  loaded  with  water,  which  is  distributed  in  stated 
proportions  among  the  inhabitants. 

Previous  to  the  revolution  which  secured  to  Peru  her  glorious  independ- 
ence, Paita  was  the  general  stopping-place  of  passengers  from  Mexico, 
Panama,  and  Colombia ;  and  from  hence  they  would  proceed  by  land 
10  Lima,  in  order  to  avoid  the  numerous  piratical  adventurers  who  theu 
liovered  on  the  coast,  as  well  as  the  head-winds,  currents,  &c.  which 
rendered  a  sea-voyage  to  Callao  tedious,  unpleasant,  and  oftentimes 

P 


1>26  PORT  OF  ST.  PEDRO.  [1825. 

•tlangcrous.  By  this  means,  they  not  only  shortened  their  route  to 
Lima,  but  often  saved  much  valuable  property  from  the  grasp  of  nauti- 
cal freebooters,  and  from  the  effects  of  nautical  disasters.  This  is  the 
only  place  wliere  vessels  from  Acapulco,  Sonsonate,  Panama,  &,c.  can 
louch  in  their  passage  to  Callao ;  and  to  this  place  they  are  often 
driven  back  by  adverse  winds  and  shifting  currents.  Consequently, 
the  town  of  Pailaowes  its  Mhole  support  to  the  harbour,  where  cargoes 
of  goods  sent  from  Panama  are  landed,  together  with  those  coming 
■from  Callao,  to  tlie  jurisdiction  of  Piura  and  Loja. 

The  mhabitanls  of  Paita  are  principally  Spaniards,  mulattocs,  and 
mestizoes,  wlio  derive  a  sr.bsistence  from  the  finny  treasures  of  the 
deep,  and  from  the  passengers  to  and  from  Callao  and  Lima.  In  tlie 
bay  of  Paita,  like  that  of  Scchura,  there  is  an  ample  fishery,  in  which 
the  Indians  of  Colan,  Sechura,  and  the  small  liamlets  near  the  coast, 
are  constantly  employed.  The  whole  defence  of  the  town  consists  of 
a  small  fort,  encircled  by  a  brick  wall,  and  mounted  with  eight  or  ten 
pieces  of  cannon ;  Mithout  ditch  or  outworks  of  any  kind.  It  has 
been  often  taken  and  pillaged,  particularly  by  the  squadron  of  Anson,  in 
1741,  when  it  was  plundered  and  burnt. 

Under  such  circumstances  as  are  here  merely  hinted  at,  it  must  be 
evident  to  every  reader  that  tliis  is  no  place  for  ships  to  procure  refresh- 
ments of  any  description.  Water  cannot  be  had ;  wood  is  procured 
with  great  difficulty ;  while  vegetables  and  beef  are  scarce,  and  com- 
mand a  high  price.  All  their  supplies  are  furnished  by  the  inhabitants 
of  Colan,  who  cultivate  grain  and  breed  cattle,  with  which  they  supply 
Paila  and  other  towns. 

About  six  leagues  distant  from  Paita,  in  the  direction  of  north-north- 
M'est-half-west,  is  Point  Parina,  between  which  and  Paita  the  land  is 
hollowed  out  into  a  deep  open  bay,  in  v.hich  is  the  village  of  Colan,  and 
iinother  one  called  Colave.  This  bay  siiould  be  avoided  as  much  as 
possible,  particularly  in  the  night,  it  being  very  subject  to  calms. 

December  3\st. — After  touching  at  Point  Nero,  and  also  at  Lobos 
He  Terre,  v.'e  arrived  at  St.  Pedro,  on  Saturday,  the  3 1st,  and  anchored 
in  six  fulhoQis  of  water,  sandy  bottom,  in  an  open  roadstead,  about 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  off-shore.  The  town  of  St.  Pedro  stands  on 
l!ie  south  bank  of  a  river  of  the  same  name,  about  half  a  mile  inland. 
Here  we  filled  our  water-casks,  and  took  on  board  a  supply  of  fruit 
and  vegetables. 

There  is  no  danger  in  lying  at  anchor  in  this  roadstead,  as  the  wind 
never  blows  very  fresh  from  the  seaboard,  and  it  is  generally  calm  at 
night.  The  landing  at  tliis  place,  however,  is  always  bad,  and  not  un- 
cittended  with  danger,  if  attempted  by  unskilful  or  inexperienced  hands  ; 
as  the  boats  must  be  managed  with  peculiar  address  and  tact,  to  pre- 
vent their  being  capsized  by  the  immense  billows  which  are  commonly 
lolling  in  to  the  shore.  It  is  therefore  advisable,  in  all  cases,  to  em- 
ploy shore-boats,  which  are  built  expressly  for  this  hazardous  service, 
-and  are  managed  by  men  who  have  been  brought  up  to  the  business 
from  their  childhood.  Of  course  these  natives  are  as  well  acquainted 
with  the  nature  of  the  landing,  and  are  as  familiar  witli  the  character 
vi  the  smf  on  tiiis  part  of  the  coast,  as  it  is   possible  for  men  to  be. 


Jan.]  BAY  OF  FERROL.  227 

By  them  every  peril  and  difficulty  is  encountered  and  overcome  w  ith 
the  greatest  ease,  while  officers  and  seamen  of  the  first  professional 
character,  who  are  not  familiar  with  this  coast,  are  liable  to  be  foiled 
in  their  attempts  to  land,  and  frequently  lose,  not  only  their  boats,  but 
their  lives. 

The  port  of  St.  Pedro  has  a  bluff  point  of  moderate  elevation,  to  the 
south  of  the  anchorage,  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  which  breaks  off  a 
part  of  the  sea  from  the  shipping.  The  town  is  small,  and  built  much 
in  the  same  manner  as  Sechura  ;  its  population  does  not  exceed  a  thou- 
sand souls,  who  are  a  mixture  of  the  Spaniards  with  the  Sana  and 
Truxillo  tribes.  They  pay  considerable  attention  to  agriculture,  and 
the  inland  soil  is  said  to  be  rich  and  productive. 

This  place  is  of  very  little  note,  being  deficient  in  the  necessary  and 
essential  conveniences  of  commerce- — good  roads.  That  which  leads 
to  the  city  of  Truxillo,  it  is  ti*ue,  is  kept  in  order,  and  deserves  praise  ; 
but  all  the  rest  are  wretchedly  bad.  The  mode  of  transporting  goods 
from  this  place  to  the  inland  towns  is  on  the  backs  of  mules,  which,  for 
want  of  roads,  travel  over  cultivated  fields,  and  thus  retard  the  laboiTTS 
of  the  agriculturist,  and  ruin  his  prospects.  By  this  wretched  policy 
industry  is  discouraged,  and  the  cultivation  of  the  soil  much  neglected. 
There  is  eveiy  facility  for  smuggling  in  this  port,  and  no  risk  incurred 
by  the  parties. 

January  2d,  1820. — On  Monday,  the  2d  of  January,  we  shaped  our 
course  for  Ferrol  Bay,  with  the  wind  from  the  south-south-east,  and 
fair  weather.  On  the  follov.-ing  day,  we  examined  the  island  of  INIala- 
brigo,  which  is  a  hidi  rock,  with  bold  water  within  a  cable's  lenoth 
from  it.  There  is  a  good  passage  between  this  island  and  the  main, 
from  which  it  is  distant  four  miles,  with  from  twenty  to  ten  fathoms  of 
water.     Hair-seals  and  sea-birds  resort  to  this  island  in  great  numbers. 

January  4th. — On  Wednesday,  the  4th,  we  examined  the  islands  of 
Guanape,  which  lie  in  latitude  8°  35'  south ;  there  are  a  group  of 
small  rocky  islands,  between  which  and  the  shore  there  is  a  good  pas- 
sage of  from  fifteen  to  ten  fathoms  water.  Point  Guanape  lies  imme- 
diately to  the  east  of  these  islands,  off  which  is  a  single  rock  near  the 
shore.  There  are  some  rocks  under  water  to  the  north  of  this  point, 
lying  nearly  two  miles  off-shore,  between  this  and  the  river  Moche. 
The  coast  here  must  have  a  good  berth. 

January  7th. — On  Saturday,  the  7th,  we  anchored  in  Ferrol  Bay,  in 
four  fathoms  of  water,  sandy  bottom,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
the  Santa  Islands,  to  the  westward,  and  one  mile  from  the  mainland, 
to  the  eastward,  completely  sheltered  from  all  winds.  The  entrance 
to  this  anchorage  is  between  the  two  islands  which  are  tlie  most  south- 
ern of  the  Santa  Islands.  This  passage  is  about  half  a  mile  wide, 
with  ten  {\ithoms  of  water,  and  clear  of  dangers.  Within  the  harbour 
there  is  sufficient  room  for  fifty  sail  of  the  line  to  moor  in  perfect 
safety,  sheltered  from  all  winds,  and  perfectly  smootli. 

Small  vessels  of  two  hundred  tons  may  heave-down  here  alongside 
of  the  rocks  of  the  soulliern  Santa  Island.  This  is  one  of  the  finest 
bays  on  the  coast  for  catching  fish  with  a  seine,  and  a  few  hair-seal 
may  be  taken  in  the  pupping  season.     Numerous  sea-birds  resort  to 

P2 


228  CINCHONA,  OR  PERUVIAN  BARK.  [1826. 

these  islands  for  the  purpose  of  lnying  llicir  eggs,  and  liatcliing  tlieir 
young.  This  is  also  a  very  convenient  place  lor  whale-ships  to  stop, 
to  cooper  their  oil,  overhaul  their  vessels,  and  obtain  such  relreslnnents 
as  they  may  require ;  for  almost  any  kind  can  be  had  here  that  is 
common  to  the  coast  of  Peru.  Tliese  will  be  supplied  in  any  quantity 
at  the  town  of  Ferrol,  which  is  two  miles  inward,  and  near  three  miles 
to  the  north  of  the  anchorage ;  they  will  be  furnished  at  short  notice, 
and  at  a  very  moderate  price. 

The  town  of  Ferrol  is  small,  containing  only  about  seven  hundred 
inhabitants,  principally  natives,  and  descendants  of  Indian  tribes  which 
inhabit  tiie  interior.  The  present  generation,  however,  appears  to  be 
•much  crossed  by  Spanish  blood.  They  are  very  honest  in  their 
commercial  transactions,  carefully  performing  whatever  they  promise. 
Like  all  other  Indians,  however,  they  are  too  fond  of  ardent  spirits. 
This  place  is  in  latitude  9°  10'  S.,  long.  78°  22'  W. 

The  climate  is  favourable  to  agriculture.  Its  usual  temperature  is 
warm  and  moist,  which  brings  into  existence  innumerable  swarms  of 
insects,  and  animals  of  a  noxious  character.  The  latter  frequently 
get  into  the  houses  of  the  inhabitants,  and  even  penetrate  into  their 
beds.  In  the  evening  they  are  molested  by  such  multitudes  of  mos- 
quhoes,  and  other  insects,  that  it  is  difficult  to  keep  a  light  burning,  as 
they  fly  into  the  flame  and  extinguish  it.  These  troublesome  visiters, 
however,  are  greatly  diminished  in  numbers  during  the  fresh  south  and 
south-west  winds. 

The  soil  in  this  part  of  the  country  is  rich  and  productive.  Tropi- 
cal fruits  of  almost  every  kind  are  produced  in  abundance ;  together 
•with  wheat,  maize,  and  grain  of  various  kinds.  The  European  fruits 
grow  m  such  great  profusion,  that  the  trees  are  unable  to  bear  the 
weight  of  their  treasures,  without  the  aid  of  props  to  support  them. 
Struwberries  grow  to  great  perfection,  and  of  remarkably  large  size. 
Orange-trees  are  ever  in  bloom,  and  at  the  same  time  laden  with  fruit, 
in  various  stages  of  progression,  from  incipiency  to  full  ripeness. 
Olives  and  almonds,  likewise,  grow  to  great  perfection  in  this  vicinity. 

While  on  the  subject  of  trees,  it  may  not  be  improper  to  notice  that 
■which  produces  the  celebrated  Peruvian  or  Jesuits'  bark,  otherwise 
called  cinchona.  This  is  a  production  peculiar  to  Peru,  and  hence 
its  most  popular  name.  It  has  been  termed  Jesuits'  bark,  because  it 
was  lirst  introduced  into  Europe  by  those  missionaries.  It  is  used  as  a 
remedy  in  intermittent  fevers,  or  agues  ;  and  by  some  persons  is  pre- 
scribed in  other  kinds  of  fevers, — in  confluent  small-pox,  in  gangrenous 
sore-throat,  and  in  every  species  of  gangrene.  It  is  given  in  powder, 
as  an  extract,  a  spirituous  tincture  and  decoction ;  but  the  most  effica- 
cious form  is  that  of  powder. 

The  cinchona  is  a  tree  wliich  is  found  only  in  mountainous  tracts, 
where  it  grows  to  the  thickness  of  a  man's  bodv.  There  are  three 
kinds  of  this  bark  used  in  medicine,  viz.  the  common  or  white  hark, 
the  yellow  bark,  and  the  red  bark.  The  latter  is  more  bitter  and 
more  astringent  than  the  common  or  the  yellow.  All  its  varieties, 
however,  are  highly  valuable,  and  are  conseqnently  liable  to  be  adulte- 
rated with  various  substances.     It  is  therefore  necessary,  in  selecting 


Jan.]  NATURAL  PRODl'CTIONS,  229 

this  drug,  to  attend  accurately  to  all  of  its  characters,  in  order  to  avoid 
being  imposed  upon  by  the  vender. 

«  Cinchona  has  long  been  known  as  a  medicine  in  Peru,  where  the 
natives  are  said  to  have  adopted  its  use  from  observing  animals  recur  to  it. 
Whatever  may  have  been  the  origin  of  its  employment,  however, 
its  efficacy  w^asnot  tested  by  Europeans  until  the  year  1640,  t\'henthe 
Countess  of  Cinchon,  the  wife  of  the  Spanish  viceroy,  was  cured  of  the 
ague  by  means  of  it.  It  therefore  derived  the  name  of  Cinchona  from 
tliat  lady.  As  it  usually  happens  on  the  first  appearance  of  any  novel 
remedy,  considerable  opposition  was  made  to  it  by  several  eminent 
physicians ;  but  its  efficacy  soon  overcame  the  groundless  clamour 
which  had  been  excited. 

The  red  bark,  \vhen  first  introduced  into  English  practice,  in  con- 
sequence of  a  Spanish  vessel,  freighted  in  part  with  it,  being  taken  in 
the  year  1779,  was  tried  in  several  of  the  London  hospitals,  and  was 
then  extolled  to  the  skies  ;  but  its  reputation  finally  gave  w^ay  to  that 
of  the  yellow  bark,  which  has  since  been  generally  considered  as  the 
most  efficacious.  The  Jesuits  first  carried  this  bark  to  Rome,  from 
whence  its  reputation  gradually  spread  all  over  Europe. 

The  animals  which  are  most  familiar  to  this  part  of  Peru  are  such 
as  I  have  already  noticed  in  my  remarks  on  other  sections  of  the  coast. 
Horses  and  mules  are  held  in  great  estimation,  particularly  the  former. 
The  breed  was  originally  brought  from  Old  Spain  ;  and,  instead  of  de- 
generating, it  has  become  superior  to  the  parent  stock.  Few  Spanish 
horses  can  now  vie  with  these  animals  in  beauty  of  form  or  graceful- 
ness of  carriage  ;  and  they  are  justly  considered  as  being  in  no 
respect  inferior  to  the  famous  Andalusian  breed.  Black-cattle  also  are 
very  abundant  on  the  plains  in  the  interior. 

The  most  remarkable  animals,  however,  in  this  part  of  the  country 
are  the  lama  and  the  vicuna.  The  former,  which  is  called  the  Peru- 
vian sheep,  in  many  respects  resembles  the  camel ;  as  in  the  shape 
of  the  head,  the  neck,  and  other  parts.  But  they  are  cloven-footed, 
have  no  hunch  on  their  backs,  and  are  much  smaller  than  the 
camel.  The  upper  lip  of  this  animal  is  cleft  like  that  of  the  hare, 
through  which,  when  enraged,  it  spits  at  its  enemy,  and  this  saliva 
is  said  to  be  poisonous.  In  a  state  of  nature  it  is  strong  and  fleet,  and 
bounds  over  its  native  mountains  whh  an  agility  that  could  scarcely 
be  exceeded  by  the  stag.  When  domesticated,  however,  and  taught 
to  bear  burthens,  this  animal  loses  much  of  its  fleetness,  and  soon  fails 
in  strength. 

The  hair,  or  rather  wool,  of  the  lama  is  generally  of  a  brown  colour, 
though  some  few  are  black,  and  others  white.  The  texture  of  it*  is 
both  fine  and  glossy,  and  it  is  spun  and  woven  into  a  beautiful  kind  of 
cloth.  Their  flesh  is  esteemed  excellent  food,  and  they  will  thrive 
without  trouble  or  care,  being  satisfied  with  the  coarsest  vegetable  food. 
The  Peruvians  find  it  the  most  useful  of  their  steeds,  as  it  can  go  even 
longer  than  the  camel  without  water  and  food.  The  vicuna  is  smaller 
than  the  lama,  and  its  wool  is  nuich  shorter  and  finer. 

The  most  remarkable  birds  found  on  tliis  part  of  the  coast  are  the 
condors  and  hummers.     The  former  is  generally  about  the  sixe  of  an 


230  PORT  OF  CHORILLOS.  [1826. 

albatross,  which  I  have  described  elsewhere ;  it  is  carnivorous  and 
very  voracious,  frequently  seizing  the  lambs  as  they  are  feeding.  Some, 
it  is  said,  are  much  larger  than  any  I  have  seen.  When  violently 
pressed  with  liunger,  this  gigantic  bitd  has  been  known  to  seize  upon 
children  ;  and  the  Indians  assert  that  it  will  carry  oil'  a  deer  or  calf  in  its 
talons  with  as  much  ease  as  an  eagle  will  a  lamb.  The  hunnner  is 
aniglit  bird,  and  generally  lives  in  the  mountainous  parts  of  the  country. 
They  are  seldom  seen,  though  often  heard,  as  the  rapidity  of  their  fliglit 
produces  a  humming  sound  in  the  air,  somewhat  like  that  of  a  rocket. 

There  is  another  curious  bird  at  this  place,  which  is  called  the 
awakener,  about  the  size  of  a  small  fowl.  Its  plumage  is  white  and 
black,  its  neck  thick ;  head  large,  erect,  and  beautifully  adorned  with 
a  tuft  of  feathers.  Its  eyes  are  large,  bright,  and  lively.  On  the  fore- 
^  part  of  each  wing  is  a  spur  about  an  inch  in  length,  which  it  uses  in  de- 
fending itself  against  its  enemies.  They  give  an  alarm  to  all  the  feathered 
tribes  when  there  is  any  appearance  of  danger,  so  that  every  kind  of 
bird  within  hearing  is  put  on  its  guard.     Hence  the  name  of  "  avmkenerP 

The  mountainous  regions  of  this  district  abound  iw  metallic  wealth, 
such  as  gold,  silver,  copper,  lead,  quicksilver,  &c.  Besides  these, 
there  are  emeralds,  marcasites,  and  other  precious  stones.  I  have  no 
doubt  that  if  the  mines  of  Peru  were  wrought  with  skill  and  industry, 
they  could  supply  sufficient  gold  and  silver  for  every  nation  on  earth. 

January  llth. — After  examining  the  coast  with  our  boats  thirty 
miles  north  and  south  of  this  anchorage,  without  finding  any  thing  but 
hair-seals,  and  having  ascertained  the  latitude  and  longitude  of  our 
anchorage  to  be  as  I  have  stated  above,  we  got  under  way  on  Monday, 
the  seventeenth,  and  commenced  plying  to  the  south,  with  the  land- 
breeze  from  south-south-east,  and  the  sea-breeze  from  south-south- 
w^est,  attended  with  fair  weather,  which  continued  for  a  week. 

January  2itJi. — On  Monday,  the  twenty-fourth,  we  arrived  at  the 
port  of  Chorillos,  and  at  one,  P.  M.,  anchored  in  five  fathoms  of  water, 
sandy  bottom ;  latitude  12°  8'  S.,  long.  77°  3'  W. 

Chorillos  is  a  pleasant  little  fishing  village,  on  the  scacoast,  a  few 
miles  south  of  Lima,  and  south-east  of  Callao.  It  is  a  great  resort  of 
pleasure  parties  from  Lima,  who  come  hither  to  enjoy  the  sports  of 
fishing,  sea-bathing,  &c.  During  the  long  siege  and  blockade  of  Cal- 
lao, which  only  terminated  the  day  before  bur  arrival,  the  port  of 
Chorillos  was  used  as  a  depot  for  the  commerce  of  Lima.  Every 
thing,  however,  was  now  in  a  state  of  bustle  and  confusion,  as  an  im- 
portant change  had  just  taken  place  in  political  affairs,  which  I  shall 
notice  hereafter. 

The  village  of  Chorillos  is  situated  on  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
south  bay  of  Lima.  This  bay  is  formed  on  the  north-west  by  Point 
Callao,  and  on  the  south-east  by  another  projection,  which  shelters  it 
from  the  prevailing  winds,  while  St.  Lorenzo  and  other  islands  protect 
it  on  the  west.  It  is  of  sufficient  capacity  to  accommodate  a  great 
number  of  ships  at  the  same  time.  Vessels  bound  to  Callao  from  the 
south  should  liaul  outside  of  all  the  islands  before  they  pass  this 
village;  otherwise  it  will  be  found  very  difficult  to  get  sufficiently  west- 
ward to  pass  to  the  northward  of  Lorenzo  Island. 


Jan.]  LETTER  FROM  A  TRAVELLER.  231 

CHAPTER  Tin. 

Isthmus  of  Daricn — Letter  from  a  Traveller — Town  of  Porto  Bello — How  to  pre- 
vent a  wet  Jacket — An  excellent  Dinner,  and  Wine  with  an  Excelfency — Canotr 
Navigation — Gloomy  Prospects — Town  and  River  Chagres — Ascending  the 
River — Crossing  the  Isthmus — Town  of  Cruces — The  Pizarro  Rond — Cominir 
to  an  Anchor — Emotions  excited  by  a  first  View  of  the  Pacific — City  of  Panama 

Importance  of  a  Passport — Projected  Canal  across  the  Isthmus — Ruins  of  old' 

Panama — An  Earthquake — The  Gulf  of  Panama. 

The  general  reader  may  possibly  require  some  apology  for  siiclr 
frequent  allusions  to  the  fact  of  my  ha%'ing  critically  examined  the- 
Avesteni  coast  of  America.  The  nautical  reader  will  expect  none  ;  as 
10  him  the  immense  importance  of  this  fact  will  be  its  own  excuse. 
To  the  latter  it  \x'\\\  be  sufFicieni.  to  state  that  I  have  personally  in- 
spected and  pointed  out  every  danger  which  exists  on  this  whole  extent 
of  coast,  from  the  Strait  of  Magellan  to  the  thirty-eigluh  degree  of  norlh 
latitude,  comprising  six  thousand  miles,  wiili  the  exception  of  the  Islii- 
mus  of  Darien,  the  west  coast  of  Mexico,  and  that  interesting  region 
now  known  by  the  appellation  of  "  Central  America"  It  has  also 
been  seen,  by  the  attentive  reader,  that  many  historical  facts  and  anec- 
dotes connected  with  the  revolutionary  struggle  of  the  South  Ameri- 
cans have  been  interwoven  with  the  thread  of  this  liomely  narrative. 

^ly  examination  of  the  western  coast  of  South  America  terminatedir 
it  will  be  recollected,  at  the  port  of  Tacamez,  fifty -two  miles  north  of 
the  equator,  when  the  progress  of  the  season  rendered  it  proper  ta 
steer  for  the  Gallipagos  Islands,  leaving  the  Gulf  of  Panama  and  the 
Isthmus  of  Darien  unnoticed.  Thus  the  chain  of  my  surveys  is  defi- 
cient in  a  very  important  link,  wliicli  I  hope  to  supply  on  some  future 
occasion.  In  the  mean  time  I  have  obtained  permission  to  lay  before- 
the  public  the  following  interesting  letter,  which  I  received  while 
inaking  preparations  for  my  first  voyage  in  1822.  The  writer  is  John 
J.  Adams,  Esq.,  now  one  of  the  editors  of  the  New-York  Travelierr 
but  at  that  time  a  commercial  agent  at  Panama  ;  his  lively  and  graphic 
description  of  which  will  certainly  not  come  amiss  in  this  place. 

"-Panama,  May  20,  1822. 
"  Dear  Sir, 
*'  AVhen  you  were  al)0ut  to  sail  on  a  sealing  expedition  to  the  Falk- 
land Islands,  as  first  ofiicer  of  the  Wasp,  son.ie  two  years  ago,  I  told 
you,  in  jest,  that  before  your  return  I  might  perhaps  take  a  leap  from 
the  three-legged  stool  of  a  counting-room  to  the  quarter-deck  of  a  ship. 
You  expressed  some  doubts  as  to  the  probability  of  such  a  transition  ; 
but  made  me  promise,  in  case  I  did  so,  to  make  you  the  depositary  of 
*  my  travel's  history,'  by  regular  extracts  from  my  journal.  '  I  have 
done  the  deed,'  but  have  kept  no  journal ;  and  as  your  return  to  New- 
York  was  daily  looked  for  when  I  left  that  city,  I  shall  partially 


ft- 


232  PORTO  BELLO.  [1856. 

rcdcc!!!  my  promise  by  sending  you  \i  brief  sketcli  of  my  '  voyages  and 
travels'  to  this  interesting  section  of  the  globe.  But  if  you  find  it,  as  I 
fear  you  will,  totally  barren  of  interest,  you  must  rest  contented  with 
the  assurance  that  it  was  well  intended. 

"I  sailed  from  New-York  on  the  twenty-first  of  iMarcli,  in  the 
schooner  Selina ;  not  indeed  as  commander,  but  still  with  the  privi- 
lege of  the  quarter-deck,  and  in  poetical  language  any  vessel  is  a  ship,  be 
her  rig  what  it  may.  The  object  of  my  voyage  is  not  important  to  '  the 
subject  of  my  story  ;'  still  your  curiosity  may  be  gratiliod  on  that  score 
by  calling  at  '  our  house'  (meaning  the  counting-room  before  men- 
tioned). My  motives  for  accepting  a  commission  so  seriously  inter- 
fering with  my  interests  and  feelings,  and  so  repugnant  to  the  wishes 
of  my  family,  were  briefly  these : — I  wished  to  convince  my  friends 
(who  were  alarmed  for  my  welfare,  in  consequence  of  my  having  made 
a  few  successful  essays  as  a  tragedian),  that  their  fears  were  ground- 
less, that  I  could  still  attend  to  business,  and  that  I  had  no  thoughts- 
of  abandoning  the  commercial  pursuits  to  which,  from  early  youth,  I 
had  been  so  assiduously  devoted.  I  presume  I  have  convinced  them; 
but  not  without  a  serious  sacrifice  on  my  part.  A^arious  engagements, 
the  least  of  which  would  probably  have  filled  my  pockets,  were  before 
me  soliciting  acceptance,  when  I  agreed  to  embark  on  this  mission. 

"I  shall  say  nothing  of  mv  excessive  sea-sickness,  our  narrow 

*  1  » 

escapes  from  pirates,  the  tremendous  storms  we  encountered,  and  such- 
like hair-breadth  escapes  ;  but  bring  you  to  Porto  Bello  at  once,  which 
Ave  made  on  the  twentieth  day  of  our  passage.  It  rained  very  vio- 
lently just  before  I  landed ;  and  during  the  shower  I  saw  a  negro  in  u 
state  of  nudity,  seated  on  a  rock,  with  his  apology  for  a  garment  care- 
fully placed  beneath  him  to  screen  it  from  the  wet.  When  the  shower 
was  over,  and  liis  ebony  skin  dried  in  the  sun,  he  then  resumed  his  dr\' 
clothes.  This  I  believe  is  a  universal  practice  here,  it  being  danger- 
ous at  this  season  to  wear  a  damp,  much  less  a  saturated  garment,  to 
check  the  perspiration.  The  first  thing  that  attracted  my  attention  on 
landing  was  the  squalid  fillhiness  of  the  place.  On  the  apex  of  each 
house  or  hovel,  which  have  thatched  pyramidical  roofs,  Avas  perched  a 
carrion  bird,  with  wings  out-spread,  drying  in  the  sun. 

'•  I  lost  no  time  in  paying  my  respects  to  the  governor,  for  whom  I 
had  divers  presents.  Not  being  an  fait  to  the  etiquette,  1  felt  a  little 
palpitation  lest  I  should  omit  some  ceremonial.  With  my  merchant — 
the  only  one  I  believe  in  the  place — I  wended  my  way  to  his  excel- 
lency's mansion.  It  was  one  of  an  extensive  block  of  buildings,  uni- 
form in  their  architecture  (if  architecture  it  may  be  called),  each  with 
a  court  in  the  centre,  surrounded  by  balconies  or  piazzas.  We  passed 
through  an  open  entrance  or  court,  penetrating  the  building,  and  abun- 
dantly filthy.  On  this  score  a  New- York  livery-stable  is  a  palace  to 
it.  A  flight  of  stairs  which  mop  or  broom  had  apparently  never  vio- 
lated, landed  us  in  a  tolerably  capacious  hall,  whence  we  emerged  into 
a  sort  of  anteroom,  without  carpet,  or  any  ornament  to  relieve  or 
heighten  the  want  of  order  and  cleanliness  so  manifest.  A  hammock 
was  slung  nearly  in  the  centre,  in  which  lay  the  son  of  his  excellency  ; 
and  a  lady,  in  complexion  like  the  queen  of  spades,  received  my  inter-  - 


Jan.]  ,  PORTO  BELLO.  ,     233 

prcted  compliments  as  daughter  of  the  governor.  My  surprise  reached 
its  climax  when  I  was  ushered  into  the  adjacent  room. 

"  His  excellency  had  completed  his  toilet,  and  very  frankly  came 
forward  to  welcome  me.  I  will  not  attempt  to  describe  his  person  or 
his  dress,  except  so  far  as  to  say  that  I  found  myself  greeted  with  a 
Spanish  embrace  by  an  indifferent  looking  mulatto.  He  warmly 
pressed  me  to  dine  with  him,  in  company  with  a  deputation  of  8t. 
Bias  Indians,  with  whom  he  was  negotiating  a  treaty.  I  declined  the 
honour,  my  friend  having  promised  me  a  delicious  turtle  dinner :  which 
of  the  New- York  aldermen,  fond  as  they  are  of  honour,  would  not 
have  done  the  same  I  I  was  excused  on  the  promise  that  I  would  wine 
with  him  after  the  repast. 

"  Accordingly,  after  luxuriating  with  my  friend,  with  a  restored,  I 
may  say  a  voracious  appetite — I  had  eaten  nothing  for  the  past  twenty 
days, — I  repaired  to  his  excellency's,  and  found  a  pretty  numerous 
party,  Indians  included,  libating  '  pottle  deep.'  By  the  time  these  ab- 
orighies  felt  the  hquor  mantling,  the  wily  governor  and  his  friends  in- 
fused high-proof  brandy  in  their  Madeira  ;  and  it  was  not  long  before 
one  of  them,  a  leading  chief,  left  his  seat  very  unceremoniously;,  and  as 
miceremoniously  was  conveyed  from  the  room  in  a  state  of  drunken 
insensibility.  1  much  question  the  policy  of  the  governor  in  this  ma- 
noeuvre ;  unless,  indeed,  by  thus  disposing  of  the  chief,  he  got  rid  of 
one  opposed  to  his  views.  I  would  remark  of  these  Indians  that  they 
were  fine-looking,  muscular  men,  in  general  appearance  much  resem- 
bling the  aborigines  of  our  part  of  the  continent,  particularly  in  the 
gravity  of  their  deportment. 

"  During  the  discussion  of  dinner  I  had  determined  to  depart  imme- 
diately for  Panama,  seeing  no  prospect  of  effecting  a  sale  of  the  cargo 
at  Porto  Bello.  My  arrangements  were  briefly  made  by  our  captain, 
whom  I  desired  to  accompany  me.  I  therefore  made  my  adieus  to  the 
governor,  suite,  and  family,  with  as  much  haste  as  a  due  respect  to  eti- 
quette would  permit,  receiving  from  his  excellency  another  fraternal 
hug  at  parting.  I  had  but  little  opportunity  of  indulging  ihe^  v 01/ age ur^s 
curiosity,  for  very  soon  after  my  escape  from  'wassail  and  rout,'  the  rain 
began  to  descend  in  torrents ;  I  saw  enough,  however,  to  satisfy  me 
that  you  lose  little  here  by  my  deficiency  in  observation. 

"  Porto  Bello,  as  you  and  everybody  knows,  is  situated  on  the  north 
coast  of  the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  now  termed  the  Isthmus  of  Panama, 
and  by  some  the  Isthmus  of  Costa  Rica.  Darien,  however,  is  the 
good  old-fashioned  name  by  which  we  were  accustomed  to  know  it  in 
our  school-boy  days  ;  and  the  whole  is  washed  by  the  Gulf  of  Darien. 
Porto  Bello  has  a  large  commodious  harbour,  with  good  anchorage  and 
shelter  for  ships  ;  its  entrance  is  narrow,  and  defended  by  several  forts. 
It  is  about  seventy  miles  north  of  Panama,  and  three  hundred  west  of 
Carthagena.  It  is  situated,  as  you  nautical  men  say,  in  lat.  9^33' 
north,  long.  80^  45'  west,  and  is  rapidly  falling  off  in  business  and 
iiiiportance. 

"  At  10  o'clock,  P.  M.,  in  a  frail  canoe,  witli  two  negro  conductors, 
we  pushed  off  from  alongside  the  schooner,  bound  for  Chagrcs.  It 
required  great  caution  in  stepping  on  board  our  egg-shell  conveyance, 


234     .        CANAL  NAVIGATION— TOWN  OF  CIIAGRES.  [1826. 

to  avoid  swamping  her,  as  I  believe  you  call  it.  I  said  nothing ;  but! 
fth  thcU  we  had  /ess  than  '  a  plank  between  us  and  destruction.'  I 
have  oiten  heard  you  assert  that  you  never  knew  wliat  fear  was.  I 
thought  of  you  at  this  moment,  and  became  quite  a  hero.  The  moou 
lent  her  light,  althoiigli  bcdimmed  by  the  mass  of  ragged  clouds  sur- 
rounding her  silver  car,  imposing  a  lleecy  veil  between  the  earth  and 
Jier  tropical  eflulgence.  Porto  Bello  lay  in  quiet  repose,  and  really 
presented  a  picturesque  appearance.  The  town  is  situated  at  the  base 
of  a  very  high  hill,  whose  ascent  is  rarely  attempted,  the  shrubbery 
being  almost  impervious,  and  abounding  with  venomous  serpents.  Th« 
only  death  which  had  occurred  liere  for  some  time  was  occasioned  by 
the  fangs  of  one  of  these  reptiles,  which  assailed  his  victim  in  the 
night,  hi  his  own  domicil. 

*'  I  had  been  but  a  few  hours  in  Porto  Bello,  yet  I  felt  as  if  I  hai 
sojourned  there  for  weeks  ;  and  I  assure  you,  my  dear  sir,  that  I  expe- 
rienced no  regret  at  leaving  it  (temporarily,  to  be  sure),  as  it  lay  iu 
beautiful  relief  in  the  moonlight — its  few  whitewashed  buildings  finely 
contrasted  with  the  long  sweep  of  the  sombre  and  towering  forest 
which  overhung  them.  I  pass  over  the  night,  which  was  sleepless. 
Our  two  negroes  plied  their  paddles  unremittedly,  unaided  by  a  breath 
of  air  to  swell  the  canvass  with  v/hich  we  were  provided. 

"  The  morning  dawned,  or  rather  burst  upon  us,  with  that  suddenness 
of  brilliancy  so  characteristic  of  the  tropical  regions, — I  cannot  describa 
my  sensations.  We  were  paddling  on  a  sleeping  ocean,  miles  from 
land  ;  and  it  seemed  as  if  the  slightest  breeze  would  bury  us  in  the 
merest  swell  of  the  sea.  No  breeze  came  ;  and,  as  noon  approached, 
I  languished  for  one,  indiflerent  as  to  consequences.  The  oppressive 
influence  of  a  vertical  sun,  falling  on  my  unprotected  head,  was  intol- 
erable ;  and  to  add  to  the  unpleasantness  of  my  feelings,  our  '  noblo 
captain,'  in  the  action  of  shifting  his  position  in  the  bottom  of  the 
canoe,  actually  perilled  our  safety  !  so  frail,  so  fragile  was  the  accom- 
modation which  his  hair-brained  economy  had  provided.  '  Thinks  I 
to  myself,'  the  next  time  I  embark  on  an  expedition  of  this  kind,  I  will 
exercise  a  little  more  precaution.  We  arrived  at  our  port  of  destina- 
tion, however,  in  safety. 

"  If  Porto  Bello,  on  a  first  acquaintance,  impressed  me  so  unfavour- 
ably, what  shall  I  say  of  Chagres  ?  On  doubling  the  high  and  jutting 
promontory  at  the  base  of  which  the  town  is  situated,  you  are,  in  a 
very  few  minutes,  at  the  anchorage  opposite.  Impatient  to  despatch, 
we  arranged  immediately  for  a  canoe  to  ascend  the  river  Chagres ; 
having  boarded  a  vessel  from  Jamaica,  where  the  dinner  was  jusi 
ready, — we  are  not  in  the  habit  of  declining  cordial  invitations.  I 
iiow  began  to  look  about  me.  What  a  prospect !  A  few  wretched 
hovels  constructed  of  reeds,  and  indiscriminately  located  on  a  low 
marshy  plain — no  wharf — no  street — no  any  thing,  indicative  either  of 
commerce  or  intelligence :  no  human  beings,  except  negroes,  mu- 
lattoes,  and  mestizoes.  I  felt  extremely  gloomy.  What  was  I  to  ex- 
pect as  I  proceeded  ? 

"  Nearly  all  the  houses  are  built  of  cane,  and  thatched ;  most  of 
ihera  are  without  any  flooring  but  the  bare  earth.     All  that  I  had  ever 


Jan.]  RIVER  CHAGRES— CROSS  THE  ISTHMUS.  255 


heard  of  the  unhealthiness  of  these  regions  seemed  as  if  marked  on  a 
map  before  me.  Deprived  in  a  great  measure  of  the  sea-breeze, 
with  a  soil  of  such  fecundity  that  the  saying  is  common,  '  put  a  plant 
invertedly  in  the  earth  and  it  will  grow  ;'  with  rain  in  its  season  burst- 
ing in  torrents,  a  vertical  sun  almost  instantly  succeeding,  shedding  its 
scorching  rays,  and  decomposing  the  vegetation  which  the  rain  had 
prostrated ;  poisonous  miasmata,  deleterious  gases,  and  ten  thousand 
noxious  exhalations ;  with  all  these  legibly  written,  as  it  were,  upon 
the  very  face  of  the  prospect,  how  could  I  prevent  the  intrusion  of 
mental  images  connected  with  pestilence  and  dcatli !  On  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  amid  the  plantains,  and  an  impenetrable  forest  of 
dwarfish  trees,  the  stately  cocoanut  towered  at  intervals,  imparting  an 
oriental  beauty  to  the  landscape,  even  as  does  the  lofty  ^Dalm,  which  it 
resembles.  I  gazed  in  sorrow,  and  with  melancholy  forebodings.  The 
last  words  our  friend  Captain  H.  said  to  me  on  parting,  were,  '  Take 
care,  my  boy,  that  you  do  not  lay  your  head  under  one  of  the  cocoa- 
nut-trees.'  To  die  in  such  a  place  !  It  appeared  to  me  that  a  Ceesar 
could  not  have  indulged  the  contemplation  without  a  shudder !  This 
place  is  situated  in  lat.  9°  20'  north,  long.  80°  30'  west.  At  least  so  I 
was  informed  ;  I  merely  mention  it  because  you  charged  me  to  be  par- 
ticular with  respect  to  locations.  It  is  the  situation  of  Fort  San  Lo- 
renzo, which  stands  on  a  steep  rock  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  near 
the  seashore. 

"All  things  being  in  readiness,  we  embarked  in  a  canoe,  on  the 
waters  of  the  Chagres.  This  river  was  formerly  called  Lagartos, 
from  the  number  of  alligators  which  infested  it.  It  is  navigable  for 
.sea-vessels  only  a  short  distance ;  but  for  boats  down  stream  it  is  the 
channel  of  commerce  between  the  two  oceans.  It  rises  on  the  ninth 
parallel  of  north  latitude,  in  the  mountains  near  Cruces,  between  the 
Bay  of  Panama  on  the  Pacific  side  and  Point  St.  Bias  on  the  Atlantic 
side  of  the  isthmus,  which  here  runs  nearly  north-east  and  south-west. 
From  its  source  the  Chagres  flows  westwardly  about  sixty  miles,  then 
turns  to  the  north  for  thirty  miles,  which  brings  it  to  the  point  of  our 
embarkation,  where  it  falls  into  the  Caribbean  Sea.  I  was  aware  that 
the  passage  of  this  river  was  obstructed  by  the  trunks  of  trees  which 
had  fallen  into  it;  and  also  by  swift  currents  over  the  shallows;  and 
consequently  did  not  anticipate  much  pleasure  in  the  excursion. 

"  The  canoe  was  managed  by  four  negroes,  destitute  even  of  a  fig- 
leaf  to  cover  them.  Our  accommodations  consisted  of  a  cabin,  in 
which  it  was  impossible  to  turn  round,  and  which  was  formed  of  hides 
spread  over  bended  poles,  somewhat  after  the  fashion  of  our  Yankee 
wagons.  AVe  had  provided  a  tolerable  stock  of  provisions^  and  ihu.i 
M'e  commenced  our  voyage  iotcards  the  Pacific  Occ.in.  The  ascent 
of  the  Chagres  proved  as  uninteresting  as  it  was  tedious.  The  mon- 
keys chattered  at  us  as  we  passed  them,  and  the  wild  beasts  looked  as 
if  they  wished  to  eat  us.  V/e  kept  on,  however,  and  after  proceeding 
about  fifteen  miles,  landed  at  a  small  town,  located  on  a  bank  a  number 
of  feet  in  height,  and  which  presented  an  appearance  of  cleanliness  not 
found  in  Chagres.  We  passed  a  number  of  rapids  as  we  advanced  ; 
and  in  one  instance  the  canoe  capsized,  and  my  entire  wardrobe  was 


236  '  THE  PIZAKRO  ROAD.  [1826. 

at  once  most  comfortably  saturated  with  Andean  tears. — I  thought  of 
the  negro  on  the  rock  at  Porto  Bello.  The  evident  wretchedness,  and 
the  equally  apparent  happiness  of  the  natives  we  encountered — pardon 
the  paradox — 1  will  not  attempt  to  describe.  Every  thing  was  so  per- 
fectly novel  that  I  should  run  into  inconsistent  prolixity. 

"Graces,  where  we  linally  landed,  is  about  seventy  miles  from 
Chagres,  and  at  the  head  of  navigation.  It  is  only  about  twenty  miles 
from  Panama,  comprising  the  whole  distance  of  portage  which  exists 
between  the  two  oceans.*  It  is  distinguished  by  no  features  that  will 
warrant  a  description.  The  mules  were  immediately  ordered,  and  after 
two  or  three  John  Gilpin  capers,  to  the  delight  of  the  assembled  town, 
which  was  unaccustomed  to  be  witched  by  such  '  noble  horsemanship,' 
anglice,  mnlcslnp,  I  gained  the  Panama  Road.  Once  entered,  there  was 
no  diverging,  and,  as  I  had  nothing  to  do  but  to  let  the  mule  pick  his 
way,  I  displayed  great  master}' in  my  management. 

"  I  was  on  the  road  made  by  Pizarro,  when  the  unoffending  Incas 
were  to  be  made  his  victims.  AVhat  will  not  ambition  and  the  lust  of 
gold  accomplish  !  It  is  no\vin  a  state  of  great  dilapidation,  owing  to 
the  heavy  rains,  which,  rushing  in  torrents  from  the  mountains,  have,  in 
the  lapse  of  years,  piled  up  the  pavement,  and  formed  defiles  whicii 
are  almost  impassable  except  by  a  mule  or  a  negro.  In  the  neighbour- 
hood of  some  of  the  savannas,  however,  abundant  evidence  exists  to 
show  that  it  was  a  work  of  great  labour  and  finish,  Avorthy  of  the  per- 
severance and  enterprise  of  that  rapacious  chief. 

"  We  were  conducted,  I  can  hardly  say  accompanied,  by  a  guide, 
who  bore  a  wallet  containing  our  refreshments.  The  journey  was 
more  than  half-completed — (we  could  not  average  more  than  three  miles 
an  hour) — and  I  had  seen  our  guide  but  once.  Poor  Sancho  Panza 
never  felt  a  more  serious  yearning  of  the  bowels  than  I  now  expe- 
rienced ;  nor  was  he  accompanied  by  a  more  indiflfierent,  phlegmatic, 
anti-sens II al  Quixote  than  my  friend  the  captain.  He  attempted  to 
comfort  and  encourage  me,  by  stating  that  we  should  not  see  the  guide 
again  until  we  reached  our  place  of  destination.  I  was  famislied,  and 
thirsty,  and  despairing,  and  thinking  of  the  cold  fowls  I  had  seen  eaten 
upon  the  stage,  and  the  hot  ones  I  had  helped  demolish  at  Niblo's,  when 
we  broke  upon  quite  an  extensive  savanna. 

"Judge  of  my  delight  on  beholding  our  darkey  quietly  seated  beside 
a  limping,  gurgling,  purling  (I  was  so  enraptured  that  I  could  lavish 
every  aqueous  epithet  upon  it)  brook.  Our  meal  was  not  a  la  four- 
chette,  though  our  carving  was  summary.  Of  a  nicely  roasted  chicken 
1  merely  took  a  leg  and  a  wing  in  my  digits  ;  the  captain  ditto.  Then 
came  the  tug  of  war.  A  moment,  and  it  was  decided ;  neither  party 
was  vanquished,  but  all  eagerly  revelled  in  the  spoils.  Never  before 
could  I  fully  comprehend  the  term  luxury ;  but  as  the  last  libation  of 
claret  closed  the  marooning  repast,  I  felt  that  it  must  have  been  the 
nectar  of  Jove. 

*  We  learn  from  the  Encyelopiisdia  Americana,  tliat  it  has  been  ascertained  that  "  liigli-water- 
mark  in  tlie  Pacific  is  about  thirteen  feet  higher  than  in  the  Atlantic  ;  but  that  at  half-tide  the  Itve! 
of  thePacilic  is  the  same  with  that  of  the  Atlantic,  and  at  low  tide  is  several  feet  lower.  These 
circumstances  indmed  the  (olomhian  governnient  to  conceive  the  plan  of  a  canal  from  Panama  ti» 
Puerto  Velo,  on  the  Atlantic  side.  uhi(  h  has  a  l.irse  and  secnre  harbour,  and  is  distant  43  miio» 
N.N.W.  from  Panama.     A  railroad  between  the  iwocuie^j  is  already  in  progress. 


Jan.]        ISTHMUS  OF  DARIEX— VIEW  OF  THE  PACIFIC.  237 

"  Pursuing  our  journey  my  attention  was  called  by  the  captain  to  an 
enormous  serpent  which  was  crossing  our  path,  a  tew  rods  ahead  of 
us.  His  length  must  have  been  iVom  twelve  to  fifteen  feet.  The  feel- 
ings he  excited  were  those  of  a  man  on  a  precipice,  infatuated  to  plunge 
into  the  abyss.  I  could  scarcely  retain  my  seat  on  the  mule.  A  sen- 
sation new  and  collapsed  pervaded  me.  It  was  but  for  a  moment,  and 
then  St.  George  himself  would  perhaps  have  been  less  apprehensive. 

"  I  cannot  offer  any  thing  worth  your  perusal  relating  to  the  topog- 
raphy, Sec.  of  the  isthmus.  Here  and  there  was  a  clearing,  with  a 
cane  or  log  edifice,  and  some  few  acres  cleared  aroimd  it.  But  for 
miles  you  could  hardly  trace  a  mark  of  civilization.  An  occasional 
cross  on  the  roadside  indicated  that  a  Christian  murder  had  been  per- 
petrated there ;  the  siglit  of  which,  maugre  the  natural  associations  it 
railed  forth,  was  in  a  degree  refreshing.  The  serpent,  the  leopard,  and 
the  monkey  abound  here  ;  and  how  the  negroes  who  traverse  the  isth- 
mus so  innocuously,  manage  it,  I  cannot  divine.  I  was  informed  that 
they  would  transport  a  barrel  of  flour  the  vrhole  distance  on  their  back  ; 
and  I  thought  it  '  a  traveller's  story,'  particularly  when  I  was  passing- 
some  of  the  defiles,  which  it  appeared  to  me,  the  sure  foot  of  a  mule 
alone  could  thread.  But  we  overtook  one  with  three  five-i:allon  demi- 
Johns  of  liquor  strapped  on  his  back,  picking  his  way  as  unconcernedly 
and  vigorously  as  if  he  bore  no  burthen.     ]My  skepticism  vanished. 

"  The  road  has  never  undergone  repair,  although  each  traveller  and 
package  transported  pays  a  good  round  tax  for  its  improvement.  One 
thing  perfectly  astonished  me  : — in  the  centre  of  a  savanna,  where  the 
road  branches,  '  we  came  to  an  anchor,' — in  other  words,  there  lav, 
iirmly  imbedded,  an  anchor  fit  for  a  line-of-battle  ship  I  How  it  came 
there  was  to  me  inexplicable.  I  learned,  however,  that  one  of  the  Pa- 
cific squadron  had  lost  her  anchor,  and  that  this  was  transported  thus 
far  to  her  relief,  when  the  frame  of  the  car  which  supported  it  gave 
way,  killing  some  dozen  or  fifteen  men  in  the  crush.  All  subsequent 
attempts  to  remove  it  proved  ineffectual. 

"Young  and  enthusiastic  as  I  am,  never  did  my  bosom  experience  a 
more  bounding  emotion  than  when,  on  turning  an  anole  of. the  road, 
Panama,  with  its  spires  and  turrets,  its  extensive  savannas,  and  the 
broad  SAveep  of  the  rnigJity  Pacific,  met  my  gaze.  '  Panama  !'  I  ex- 
claimed, *  thou  hast  redeemed  the  isthmus  !'  What  could  be  more 
grateful  to  the  novitiate  traveller  than  the  view  of  an  apparently  popu- 
lous and  M'ell-regulated  city,  after  traversing  the  dreary  and  dangerous 
wild  of  the  isthmus,  and  encountcriuo-  the  canoe-difliculties  of  the  mo- 
notonous  Chagres.  The  veteran  traveller  must  needs  have  partici- 
pated in  the  feelings  which  possessed  me.  With  what  pleased  alacrity, 
in  which  indeed  my  mule  participated,  did  I  thread  tiie  extended  sa- 
vanna !  With  what  a  glow  did  I  contemplate  those  spires,  perspec- 
tively  beaming  in  the  last  rays  of  a  tropical  and  dazzling  sun  ! — And, 
ah  !  with  what  feelings  of  awe — of  reverence — nay,  of  sulilimity,  did 
T  look  upon  the  waters,  and  felt  that  they  presented  in  their  expanse 
a  '  bourne  from  which  no  traveller  might  return.' 

"  If  an  argument  at  this  dav  were  necessary  to  establish  the  Christian 
faith,  let  the  skeptic  who  needs  it  tracd.     Let  him  visit  foreign  climes  ; 


238  •  PANAMA  CITY.  [1826. 

let  him  go  wliere  hospitality  is  proverbial;  let  him  wander  where  Arca- 
dian beauties  rivet  him,  and  where  good  faith  is  invariably  extended  to 
the  wayfaring  ; — and  then  let  him  pause,  and  ask  this  question  : — '  Did 
aught  in  my  wanderings  ever  inspire  me  Mitii  so  mucli  coniidence  of 
security  as  a  simple  village  spire,  rising  in  the  dim  distance  of  the 
lonely,  and  perhaps  otherwise  cheerful  landscape  V  The  answer  is 
anticipated.     No ! 

"What  must  have  been  the  sensations  of  those  intrepid  and  enter- 
prising men,  when  from  the  mountains  of  the  istlnr.us  they  for  the 
iirst  time  beheld  the  waters  of  the  immense  Pacific  !  Fancy  and 
imagination  are  fettered — in  vain  would  they  portray  them.  It  would 
immortalize  any  painter  who  could  convey  even  a  glimmering  of  the 
expression  of  the  subdued  features  of  him  who  for  the  first  time 
gazed  upon  it,  after  being  wrapt  in  wonder  from  exploring  a  vast  and 
newly  discovered  continent.  We  cnn  cast  our  eyes  to  the  firmament 
when  the  bright  stars  are  coqucttishly  winking  ;  we  can  behold  the 
rising  and  setting  glory  of  the  great  luminary,  amid  its  gorgeous  and 
unrivalled  drapery  ;  we  can  contemplate  the  orb  of  night  in  its  chas- 
tened loveliness — and  feel  our  nothingness,  and  humbly  bow  ourselves, 
as  the  creation  in  its  immensity  bursts  upon  our  bewildered  imagina- 
tion. But  powerful  as  are  these  emotions,  they  shrink  into  compar- 
ative insignificance  compared  to  the  feelings  of  him  who  for  the  first 
time  gazes  upon  the  waters  of  tliis  immense  ocean.  To  the  former 
objects  we  have  been  accustomed  from  infancy,  and  it  is  only  in  mo- 
ments of  occasional  abstraction  and  meditation  that  their  sublimity 
affects  us.  But  the  ocean  ever  enkindles  the  feeling.  In  its  apparent 
boundless  extent,  there  is,  if  I  may  so  express  it,  a  palpability,  a  tan- 
gibilit)',  which  takes  the  senses  captive. 

"  My  first  movement,  after  dismounting  from  my  unruly  and  truly 
obstinate  mule,  was  to  seek  the  quay.  In  twenty-four  days  after  leav- 
ing Dover-street  wharf,  in  the  city  of  New- York,  I  was  laving  in  the 
Pacific ;  and  am,  for  auglit  I  know  to  the  contrary,  the  first  New- 
Yorker  that  ever  made  so  short  a  cut  to  reach  it.  I  leave  you  to  con- 
ceive of  my  feelings,  and  imaginings,  and  romancing,  '  and  all  that 
sort  of  thing.'  I  have  some  recollection  of  a  vivid  description  you 
gave  me  of  the  sensations  you  experienced  on  finding  yourself  for  the 
first  time  afloat  on  the  vast  ocean,  after  playing  the  Crusoe,  and  running 
away  from  your  paternal  home ;  of  your  anticipations  of  discovering 
new  worlds  at  the  south  pole;  of  your  first  smelling  gunpowder  at  the 
siege  of  Cadiz ; 

'  Of  brun?  taken  by  Uie  insolent  foe. 
And  sold  to  slavery  ;  of  your  rsdemplion  thence, 
And  po.laucc  in  your  trnvcl's  liLstory.' 

I  sa}*,  recollecting  all  this,  I  do  not  hesitate  to  let  you  have  a  peep  at 
the  romantic  workings  of  my  own  youthful  imagination,  as  you  know 
how  to  appreciate  such  kind  of  feelings. 

"  Panama  is  a  walled  city,  and  its  parapet  presents  a  front  formi- 
dable in  the  extreme.  The  ordnance  here  mounted  exceeds  in  caliber 
any  thing  I  have  ever  seen  ;  and,  ere  the  intensely  darting  beams  of  the 
morning  sun  burst  forth,  a  stroll  around  its  barricade  is  interesting  to 
the  mind,  and  invigorating  to  the  body.     I  have  frequently  paused  in 


Jan.]  PROJECTED  CANAL.  239 

wy  early  rambles,  and  fancied,  as  I  gazed  on  the  threshold  of  some 
protruding  tower,  that  I  saw  the  insatiate  Pizarro  brandishing  his 
sword,  while  the  whole  train  of  Kotzebue's  and  Sheridan's  creation 
passed  before  me  like  the  fevered  visions  of  Macbeth.     My  rhetoric 

cannot  charm  yon,  for  I  write  under  peculiar  excitement. 

******** 

"  I  am  now  in  the  g-uard-house.  Oh  !  for  a  Latin  quotation  !  I  have 
no  book  to  glean  one  from.  I  am  here  a  prisoner,  for  fiiiling  to  show, 
or  rather  to  obtain,  a  passport.  Life  has  a  charm  it  never  before  pos- 
sessed, for  I  was  never  before  sensible  of  holding  it  by  so  precarious 
a  tenure;  Immured  in  a  prison,  with  a  constitution  peculiarly  liable  to 
the  prevailing  fever !  To  die  far  from  home — in  a  strange  place — 
among  strangers,  I  had  almost  said  among  savages  I — to  tread  the 
gloomy  path  alone — unsupported,  unchecrcd  by  the  soothing  accents 
of  friendship  and  affection  !  I  would  quote  Shakspeare,  but  will  not 
trespass.  I  have  actually  written  my  own  requiem.  How  did  you  feel 
in  Dartmoor  prison  ?     I  pause  ?iot  for  a  reply. 


* 


"  Once  more  I  am  free,  and  may  pursue  my  business.  I  am  quartered 
"whh  the  somewhat  celebrated  Colonel  Kirkland,  projector  of  the  canal 
to  unite  the  two  oceans.  He  is  a  very  intelligent  man,  but  does  not 
appear  (as  I  apprehend)  to  entertain  correct  views  relative  to  the  ar- 
rangement of  the  project.  He  discards,  in  foto,  the  idea  of  a  canal 
across  this  section  of  the  isthmus.  His  location  is  easterly — com- 
mencing at  the  Atrato,  on  the  Caribbean,  or  Atlantic  side,  and  con- 
necting it  with  St.  Juan,  which  empties  into  the  Pacilic.  This  vrould 
be  all  very  well,  if  ship  navigation  were  admissible :  but  even  steam- 
boats would  find  it  difficult.  Humboldt  says  that  at  extraordinary 
seasons  both  rivers  have  been  conjoined,  and  thus  the  Atlantic  and  the 
Pacific  have  been  oft  united.  What  shall  I  say,  M'ho  am  totally  igno- 
rant of  tliis  matter,  excepting  that  I  cannot  imagine  a  ship-channel 
across  the  isthmus  impracticable  ?  Far  better  were  it  to  clear  the  ob- 
structions of  San  Juan  Costa  Rica,  and  through  the  picturesque  lakes 
of  Grenada  and  Leon  find  our  way  to  the  lordly  Paciiic.  If  there  be 
not  a  ship-channel,  St.  Juan  and  Grenada  v>'ili  ultimately  command  a 
preference — an  unavoidable  preference. 

"Much  speculation  has  been  arloat  as  to  the  relative  height  of  the 
two  seas.'  For  my  part,  I  can  oiler  nothing  scientifically,  as  you  well 
know.  I  can  and  will,  hov^'•ever,  modestly  suggest  that  t!ie  regular 
trade-winds  cause  a  heapiiig  of  the  waters  in  the  Caribbean  archipelago, 
from  which  emanates  tlie  Gulf  Stream  torrent.  The  reaction  from  the 
Bay  of  Mexico  and  the  quiet  of  the  peninsula  of  Yucatan  compared 
Avith  the  sweep  around  Cape  Antonio  and  the  dangerous  Cordilleras  ; 
the  powerful  eddy  in-shore  from  tlie  point  of  Yucatan  to  St.  Martha — 
an  eddy  so  strong  that  our  fleet  little  bark  with  difficulty  stemmed  it — 
all  combine  to  satisfy  me  that  the  water  there  is  constantly  beyond  its 
level.  If  it  be  so,  a  canal  cut  sufficiently  deep  would  probably  be 
productive  of  the  most  astonishing  consequences.  The  Bahamas  it 
v/ould  not  be  necessary  to  cross  in  our  voyaging :  indeed  it  would 
probably  be  impracticable  ;  for  if  the  water  in  the  Caribbean  be  higher 


240  PANAMA— AN  EARTHQUAKE.  [1826. 

than  that  of  the  Pacific,  it  would  naturally  take  its  course  to  that 
ocean,  wearing  for  itself  a  channel  that  might  eflectually  divide  the 
continent,  and  render  a  passage  to  the  Indies  as  facile,  as  safe,  more 
pleasant,  and  nearly  as  brief,  as  almost  any  other  foreign  voyage. 

"  I  think  a  canal  might  be  dug  parallel  to  the  river,  and  near  its 
banks  as  far  as  Cruce.s,  and  thence  continued  on  the  Pizarro  Road. 
The  mountains  back  of  Panama,  the  lowest  of  the  chain  of  the  Andesi 
would  not,  I  think,  offer  a  formidable  barrier — tlie  road  at  present 
half-circles  the  base  of  one  of  them,  and  the  canal  might  follow  its 
track.  Kirkland  does  not  agree  wiili  me  in  my  views,  although  he 
oilers  nothing  decidedly  in  confutation.  He  has  appUed  to  Congress 
lor  a  charter,  with  exclusive  privileges  for  one  hundred  years  ;  they 
object  to  the  time,  and  he  is  now  awaiting  an  answer  from  Bolivar, 
who  by  the  Jast  accounts  had  triumphantly  entered  Pasto.  Peru's 
independence  is  now  considered  secure. 

"  I  did  not  mean  thus  to  attenuate.  It  must  be  my  garrulity  ;  for  on 
reviewing  the  preceding,  I  find  I  have  ofiered  merely  an  adumbration 
f  that  which  I  conceived,  and  doubtless  correctly.  It  could  have 
been  fully  embraced  in  half  the  space.  It  may  reach  you,  however, 
at  a  period  when  it  will  not  be  unacceptable ;  for  at  this  moment  the 
dullest  correspondent  that  ever  taxed  me  would  be  welcome  in  a  closely- 
written  treble  post-folio  sheet.  Yesterday  I  accompanied  a  party  to 
visit  the  ruins  of  the  former  town.  AVe  embarked  in  the  boat  of  an 
English  schooner,  but  although  we  were  on  the  waters  of  the  Pacific, 
^  the  surf  was  too  unruly  to  permit  our  landing.  The  town  was  de- 
stroyed by  an  earthquake,  and  the  appearance  of  the  ruins  gave  mdi- 
cation  of  fearful  violence. 

*'  The  mosquitoes  here  are  very  annoying.  I  have  not  yet  pro- 
cured a  ne*,  and  find  it  almost  impossible  to  sleep.  Last  nighi,  or 
rather  this  morning,  I  was  fairly  wearied  into  slumber,  into  which  I 
had  just  sunk  when  die  captain  alarmed  me.  '  Did  you  not  hear  it  V — 
'  Hear  what  V  said  I,  vexed  at  the  interruption  of  an  enjoyment  obtained 
through  so  much  difficulty ;  '  the  car  raiding  o'er  the  stony  street  V — 
'  No,  the  earthquake.' — I  had  heard  and  felt  nothing.  He  said  there 
had  been  two  very  severe  shocks,  and  the  third  would  likely  prove 
more  so.  I  arose  and  went  into  the  large  hall  where  Kirkland  and  all 
in  sleeping  costume  were  assembled.     What  a  group  for  a  painter  ! 

"  The  boldest  held  his  breath  lor  a  while.  Some  time  elapsed,  the 
shock  was  not  repeated,  and  we  dispersed.  Just  as  I  had  adjusted 
myself  for  Somnus,  I  experienced  a  slight  easy  undulation  of  my  couch, 
which  I  can  compare  only  to  the  gentle  roeking  of  a  cradle  by  a 
mother,  in  which  lay  her  infant  invalid.  It  was  the  last  shock  of  the 
leveller  whose  mysterious  visitings  quail  the  stoutest  heart. 

*'  I  learned  this  morning  that  the  large  square  was  completely  filled 
by  the  panic-struck  inhabitants  when  the  shock  was  felt.  Thev 
scarcely  ever  think  about  their  liability  to  such  visitations,  but  when 
they  come  are  filled  with  dread.  And  how  can  it  be  otherwise  ? 
AVhen  the  '  sound  and  firm-set  earth'  totters  beneath  us,  we  gaze 
upon  the  lofty  towers  of  our  vain  creation,  and  the  pride  with  which 
Ave  surveyed  them  is  turned  into  a  fearful,  horrible  apprehension,  that 


Jan.]  CITY  AND  BAY  OF  PANAMA.  241 

even  at  the  moment  their  misightly  ruins  may  hide  the  mangled  re- 
mains of  our  humanity.  In  the  most  fearful  storm  at  sea,  with  the 
frailest  bark,  and  on  a  lee  iron-bound  shore,  hope  will  hover,  and  ex- 
ertion in  a  degree  divert  the  mind,  however  despairing ;  but  when  the 
earthquake  sends  forth  its  premonitions,  hope  departs.  The  only 
guardian  which  remains  is  quiet,  humble  resignation ;  and  in  what 
beautiful  relief  she  appears  amid  the  appalling  extravagance  of  fear 
and  despair ! 

"  Last  Sunday  I  took  a  walk  with  Kirkland  to  spend  an  hour  at  a 
little  villa  about  half  a  mile  from  the  gates  of  the  city.  We  were  en- 
countered by  a  sudden  shower,  and  seeking  refuge,  were  ushered  into 
a  cock-pit :  all  was  life  and  bustle.  A  padre,  who  assisted  at  mass, 
arrayed  in  his  sacerdotal  garb,  with  a  fowl  under  his  arm,  manifested 
ihe  deepest  interest.  I  never  witnessed  any  thing  of  the  kind  before, 
and  assuredly  did  not  rejoice  at  the  necessity  by  which  I  was  thus 
enlightened. 

"  The  villa  of  which  I  spoke  is  not  only  beautifully  but  romantically 
situated.  It  is  offered  to  me  very  low,  and  I  think  of  purchasing  it, 
and  despatch  the  vessel  home,  in  order  to  avail  of  the  immense  ad- 
vantages which  at  present  offer  in  this  unknown  and  interesting  region. 
The  site  of  the  villa  or  cottage  is  beautiful,  being  on  the  brow  of  a 
gently  sloping  hill,  which  abruptly  terminates  at  the  base  of  a  moun- 
tain. The  house  is  built  with  care,  and  replete  with  convenience. 
The  grounds  are  terraced  to  their  termination,  forming  a  series  of 
aqueducts  or  reservoirs,  which  serve  to  irrigate  a  soil  unsurpassed  in 
fertility.  On  the  left  an  arm  of  the  bay  penetrates — but  I  think  gulf 
the  most  appropriate  term — for  this  arm  of  which  I  speak  is  in  itself 
a  bay  of  imposing  magnitude,  and  of  more  than  imposing  magnificence; 
for  when  surveying  it,  I  was  transported  home.  • 

"  I  was  gazing  on  our  own  magnificent  bay — ay,  there  they  lay, 
Staten  Island  in  protective  majesty.  Governor's  Island  in  picturesque 
prominency,  with  Ellis's  and  Bedlow's  imbedded  at  due  distance,  only 
reposing  in.  more  quiet  beauty.  The  similitude  is  fully  equal  to  that 
which  you  may  have  noticed  on  entering  the  harbour  of*  Charleston, 
The  Astley  and  Cooper  rivers  and  the  fort  on  the  Uttle  sandy  island, 
together  with  the  appearance  of  the  quay,  are  perfectly  typical  of  New- 
York;  much  more  so,  however,  does  this  arm  of  the  bay  resemble  it. 
I  need  not  tell  you  with  what  interest  I  looked,  while  the  fireside 
(although  I  was  near  the  equator),  by  the  talisman  of  imagination, 
greeted  my  vision,  surrounded  by  objects  never  so  dear  to  aftection,  and 
certainly  never  before  so  highly  appreciated.  If  I  purchase  this  place, 
I  fear  my  correspondence  will  be  strongly  tinctured  with  the  senti- 
mental, if  not  become  mawkish.  \ 

"  There  is  much  more  that  has  struck  me  in  a  desultory  way  which 
I  would  fain  communicate ;  but,  fortunately  for  you,  neither  time  nor 
room  admit.  { 

"  The  population  of  Panama  is  variously  estimated.  Embracing  the 
suburbs,  which  are  populous,  it  is  stated  to  be  from  10  to  30,000 ;  I 
think  the  truth  will  be  found  to  lie  between.  The  churches  are  large 
and  handsomely  ornamented.     The  cathedral  can  comfortably  accom- 

Q 


242  CITY  AND  BAY  OF  PANAM.i.  [1824. 

modatc   in   its   area   any   three   of  our  churches   which   could  be 
selected. 

*'  The  streets  are  paved,  and  are  remarkably  cleanly.  It  is  a  pleasure 
to  promenade  them  in  the  cool  of  tlie  day,  particularly  as  your  well- 
bred  native  invariably  extends  to  the  stranger  on  passing  tiic  most 
courteous  anil  withal  graceful  salutation.  I  am  true  breed,  awkward, 
and  diffident,  but  anxious  to  observe  and  conform  to  etiquette.  I  know 
not  what  would  be  the  behaviour,  or  rather  how  it  would  be  viewed, 
of  some  of  our  counirvnien  when  oflerintj  or  receivino-  the  lijjht  of  a 
segar  from  a  courtly  don  or  equally  polite  signor.  In  llie  action  of 
tendering  and  receiving  a  scgar,  simple,  even  vulgar,  as  some  may 
consider  it,  they  add  a  charm  to  gi-ace  itself 

"You  must  of  course  know  the  latitude  and  longitude  of  the  place, 
but  as  it  will  take  only  a  line  I  will  give  it :  8°  58'  north  latitude, 
longitude  79^  37'  west. 

*'  I  would  give  you  an  idea  of  the  pearl-fishery  here,  but  must  defer 
it.  It  is  being  extensively  carried  on,  and  is  likely  to  become  a  source 
of  wealth.  I  am  informed  that  the  pearls  obtained  here  surpass  in 
form  and  brilliancy  the  oriental. 

"  The  tide  rises  and  falls  some  twenty  feet,  and  the  appearance  of 
the  bay  at  high  and  low  water  varies  so  much  as  entirely  to  change 
its  aspect.  Flats  which  extend  several  miles  into  the  gulf  are  alter- 
nately covered  and  bare  at  high  and  low  water.  Vessels  cannot  ap- 
proach the  quay  in  consequence,  and  the  cargoes  are  discharged  at 
high  water  in  flat-bottomed  lighters.  The  roadstead  is  exposed  to 
violent  north  winds,  but  the  ani.'horage  is  safe.  The  commerce  is  not 
"what  it  was,  but  it  must  ultimately  be  great.  The  whole  coast  of 
California  and  St.  Bias,  abounding  in  hides,  cochineal,  and  indigo,  the 
cost  of  which  is  extremely  low,  presents  a  fine  market  for  our  cottons, 
aflbrding  a  profit  beyond  any  thing  in  my  commercial  experience. 
Jamaica  has  been  vastly  benefited  ;  its  contiguity  and  its  colonial  facili- 
ties give  it  important  advantages.  The  English  have  fully  availed 
themselves  of  the  opportunities  for  advantageous  commerce  which  have 
occurred  along  the  whole  line  of  this  almost  boundless  coast.  We 
however  are  likely  to  participate,  and  largely.  An  immense  fortune 
to  your  humble  servant  is  within  reach,  if  favoured  with  health. 

*'  1  will  address  you  again  ere  I  leave,  and  without  requesting  any 
extension  of  courtesy  to  this  imperfect  epistle,  I  am  most  truly  yours, 

"John  J.  Adams." 


Jan.]  SURRENDER  OF  CALLAO.  ^  243 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Surrender  of  the  Castles  of  Callao,  by  General  Rodil,  to  the  Patriots — Dreadful 
Effects  of  the  Siege — General  Quintanilla  surrenders  the  Island  of  Chiloe — Visit 
the  Ruins  of  Pachamcamac,  a  magniiicent  Temple  of  the  Sun — Homeward- 
bound — Strait  of  Magellan — Two  Excursions  into  the  Interior — Entertained 
by  a  Tribe  of  Patagonians — Their  Stature  and  Hospitality — Human  Skeletons 
of  a  gigantic  Size — Touch  at  the  Falkland  Islands — A  fruitless  Search  for  Island 
Grande — Arrive  at  New- York. 

Just  as  we  were  entering  the  roadstead  of  Chorillos,  on  the  24th 
of  January,  1826,  Callao  and  its  castles,  which  had  been  so  long  and 
so  desperately  defended  by  the  gallant  Rodil,  were  surrendered  to  the 
patriots  by  capitulation.  The  Spanish  flag  had  given  place  to  that  of 
the  Peruvian  republic  ;  the  gates  were  thrown  open,  salutes  were  fired, 
and  every  thing  betokened  triumph  and  rejoicing  on  the  part  of  the 
patriots.  Not  so  with  the  skeleton  of  a  garrison  which  marched  out 
as  prisoners  of  war,  ahlwugh  the  terms  of  capitulation  which  their 
gallant  commander  obtained  for  them  were  highly  favourable.  Only 
three  hundred  shadows  of  men  remained  of  three^  thousand  who  occu- 
pied the  fortress  a  short  time  previous  to  the  commencement  of  the 
blockade.  They  were  conquered  by  famine  alone,  and  displayed 
through  the  whole  siege  a  Spartan-like  heroism  worthy  of  a  better  cause* 

I  have  already  stated  that  the  independence  of  Upper  and  Lower 
Peru  had  been  accomplished  by  the  decisive  victory  of  Ayacucho,  the 
result  of  a  desperate  battle  which  was  fought  on  the  9th  of  December, 
1824.  General  Rodil,  who  commanded  the  castles  of  Callao,  it  will 
be  recollected,  refused  to  sun-ender  according  to  the  articles  of  capitu- 
ladon,  but  obstinately  defended  them  for  upwards  of  a  year.  Being 
well  supplied  with  stores  and  ammunition,  he  rejected  every  proposal 
for  surrender,  and  the  place  continued  to  be  closely  invested  by  sea 
and  land,  and  was  declared  by  proclamation  to  be  in  a  state  of  rigorous 
blockade  when  I  entered  it  in  the  Tartar,  as  mentioned  in  Chapter  III. 
'  In  the  mean  time  all  the  foreign  shipping  on  the  coast  sustained  much 
inconvenience  for  the  want  of  the  fine  bay  of  Callao  ;  being  obliged 
during  the  continuance  of  the  siege  to  discharge  their  cargoes  in  the 
open  roadstead  of  Chorillos,  a  few  miles  farther  south.  Oflers  of 
mediation,  therefore,  were  made  by  the  officers  of  the  British  squadroa 
on  the  station,  but  to  no  purpose.  Rodil  still  persisted  in  maintaining 
the  castles  without  any  possible  benefit  to  his  country.  The  Peruvians 
were  therefore  obliged  still  to  keep  up  a  large  force  before  Callao,  at 
an  immense  expense,  assisted  by  a  Chilian  and  Colombian  squadron. 

At  length,  after  sustaining  a  rigorous  siege  for  more  than  a  year,  and 
being  reduced  to  absolute  famine,  Rodil  was  compelled  to  capitulate 
to  the  Colombian  forces,  commanded  by  General  Salon,  who  had  been 
assisting  the  Peruvians  in  driving  the  troops  of  Old  Spain  from  the 
country.     At  the  time  of  surrender  Callao  was  literally  in  a  state  o^ 

Q2 


241  SURRENDER  OF  CALLAO.  [18«6. 

ruin,  presenting  the  most  horrid  spectacle  I  ever  beheld.  A  great  patt 
of  the  town  was  levelled  to  the  ground,  and  every  house  left  standing 
was  more  or  less  injured.  Unburied  dead  bodies  of  those  who  perislied 
by  famine  or  by  gun-shots  were  found  in  the  houses,  and  lay  scattered 
about  the  streets. 

Among  the  persons  of  note  who  perished  here  were  the  Marquis 
of  Torre  Tagle  and  nearly  all  the  members  of  his  numerous  family^ 
He  had  abandoned  the  republican  cause,  and  took  refuge  in  Callao. 
While  president  of  Peru  the  government  had  presented  to  him  a  medal 
valued  at  thirty  thousand  dollars  ;  and  this  he  had  oflered  to  Rodil, 
during  the  siege,  for  a  lialf-barrel  of  beef  and  a  small  quantity  of  rice  ! 
The  sufferings  of  the  besieged  can  scarcely  be  conceived.  The  horses 
and  mules  \vhich  they  were  compelled  to  kill  to  prevent  their  dying 
of  starvation  were  sold  to  the  inhabitants  at  the  enormous  price  of 
seventeen  dollars  a  pound.  A  shigle  fowl  has  sold  for  eighty  dollars, 
and  ship-biscuit  at  eight  dollars  a  piece.  At  the  time  of  the  surrender 
there  was  not  a  dog  or  a  cat  to  be  found  in  the  place ;  all  had  been 
eaten  by  the  inhabitants,  with  as  many  rats  as  they  could  catch.  At 
the  commencement  of  the  siege  there  were  fifteen  hundred  troops  in 
the  oastles,  and  four  thousand  five  hundred  inhabitants  in  the  town.  At 
the  surrender  there  were  but  three  hundred  troops  and  five  hundred 
inhabitants.  Thus  out  of  six  thousand  souls  there  were  but  eight 
hundred  left ! 

This  event  was  the  extinction  of  the  power  of  Old  Spain  on  the 
continent  of  America.  The  flag  of  Ferdinand  now  no  longer  floated 
over  one  solitary  spot  between  the  Sabine  River  and  Cape  Horn.  The 
island  of  Chiloe,  as  I  afterward  learned,  had  surrendered  ten  days 
previous,  after  having  been  obstinately  defended  by  the  gallant  General 
Quintanilla,  whose  friendly  and  hospitable  attentions  rendered  my  visit 
to  San  Carlos  so  agreeable,  in  the  month  of  November,  1824,  as  men- 
tioned in  Chapter  II.  An  expedition  under  the  command  of  Don  Simon 
Freire,  supreme  director  of  Chili,  succeeded  in  this  enterprise  after  a 
skirmish  in  which  they  lost  sixteen  killed  and  seventy-eight  wounded. 
When  first  summoned  to  surrender,  the  Spanish  general  made  the  fol- 
lowing characteristic  reply : 

"  Governmeiit  of  Chiloe. 
"I  know  of  no  reason  that  ought  to  oblige  me  to  fail  in  that  duty 
which  I  owe  to  my  king,  the  army,  and  inhabitants  of  this  province, 
who  desire,  as  I  do,  an  opportunity  of  showing,  for  the  third  time,  to 
the  army  of  Chili,  that  its  attempts  to  subjugate  us  are  vain,  and  there- 
fore your  excellency  may  spare  menaces  which  you  are  in  no  condition 
to  fulfil. 

"  God  preserve  your  excellency  many  years. 

♦*  Antonio  de  Quintanilla* 

^^Head-quarters  de  San  Carlos  de  Chiloe^  Jan,  11,  1826.'* 

A  few  days,  however,  convinced  this  faithful  servant  of  Ferdinand 
that  it  would  be  a  useless  waste  of  lives  and  property  to  hold  out 
against  such  a  disparity  of  force :  he  therefore  acceded  to  terms  of 


Feb.]  RUINS  OF  A  TEMPLE  OF  THE  SUN.  245 

capitulation,  aiid  delivered  to  the  patriots  the  batteries,  cannon,  arms, 
&c.  Thus  was  the  finishing  stroke  given  to  the  fabric  of  South 
American  independence,  reared  at  the  expense  of  so  much  suffering, 
blood,  and  treasure.  May  the  people  prove  worthy  of  the  blessing 
which  their  valour  has  achieved. 

Great  rejoicings  took  place  in  Lima  on  the  day  that  Callao  surren- 
dered. I  visited  the  city  on  the  following  day,  and  saw  the  royal 
troops,  "  the  hardy  gleanings  of  many  a  hapless  fight,"  as  they  marched 
through  the  town.  They  were  certainly  the  most  miserable,  emaciated- 
looking  men  that  my  eyes  had  ever  beheld.  Their  appearance  drew 
many  tears  of  sympathy  from  the  bright  eyes  of  the  fair  republican 
ladies  of  Lima. 

I  called  on  Mr.  Whitmore,  of  Providence,  R.  L,  who  was  at  that  time 
a  commission  merchant  in  Lima,  who  made  me  acquainted  with  the 
foregoing  particulars.  I  have  lately  understood  that  this  worthy  man 
has  returned  to  the  United  States  with  an  ample  fortune.  I  can  only 
say  that  he  richly  deserves  it,  and  may  he  live  to  enjoy  every  blessing 
that  honour,  virtue,  and  wealth  can  bestow. 

My  friend  Mr.  Whitmore  told  me  several  anecdotes  respecting  the 
irregularities  of  the  ecclesiastics  in  Lima  and  other  cities  of  Pern, 
which  tended  to  confirm  a  previous  impression  I  had  entertained  not 
very  favourable  to  some  individuals  of  that  order.* 

Februari/  isf. — On  Wednesday,  the  1st  day  of  February,  we  found 
ourselves  in  readiness  to  put  once  more  to  sea ;  and  accordingly,  at  six, 
P.  M.,  we  got  under  way,  and  steered  for  the  Pachamcamac  Islands, 
which  lie  in  latitude  12^  24'  S.,  between  one  mile  and  a  half  and  two 
miles  off-shore.  These  are  several  small  islands  or  rocks,  ranging  in 
a  line,  and  extending  about  two  miles  and  a  half  nearly  north-west  and 
south-east.  They  are  separated  from  each  other  by  narrow  channels, 
which  have  from  fifteen  to  five  fathoms  of  M'ater ;  while  close  to  them 
on  the  north  there  is"  a  depth  of  thirty-five  fathoms.  Opposite  these 
islands  is  the  small  village  of  Lurin,  and  a  little  beyond  it  the  beautiful 
and  luxuriant  valley  of  Pachamcamac,  celebrated  for  its  pleasantness 
and  fertility,  and  still  more  for  a  magnificent  temple  of  the  sun,  built 
by  the  incas  to  the  honour  of  their  deity,  the  ruins  of  which  are  still 
standing. 

The  Temple  of  Pachamcamac,  which  is  the  name  of  the  Peruvian 
god,  was  the  most  costly  and  magnificent  religious  edifice  in  the  whole 
country.     It  contained  a  golden  image,  representing,  according  to  their 

*  On  the  ITtli  of  February,  1832,  a  Peruvian  gazette,  called  the  "  Mercurio  Peruanio,"  pxiblished 
tte  following  ordonnance  of  the  government,  which  will  show  the  manner  in  which  the  supreme 
authorities  deal  with  refractory  priests  in  the  city  of  Lima.  It  is  also  curious  as  an  illustration  of 
the  state  of  society  in  Peru. 

"  February  llth.—The  following  ordonnance  was  issued  from  the  government  office  on  the  lOtli 
instant,  to  M.  L.  Vidaurre,  the  ecclesiastical  governor  of  the  district  :— 

"  •  Senor— The  government  has  been  scandalized  at  finding  that  the  members  of  the  religious 
brotherhood  are  abroad  at  all  hours  of  the  night,  and  that  a  considerable  number  even  sleep  out  of 
their  cloisters,  and  constantly  betake  themselves  to  gaming  and  other  improper  houses.  The  gov- 
ernment feels  that  those  disorders,  which  they  know  to  be  merely  the  acts  of  individuals,  will  still 
give  rise  to  very  injurious  impressions  against  those  sacred  institutions  which  have  been  established 
by  men  illu,strious  for  their  virtues  and  learning  ;  and  it  has  accordingly  resolved  to  suggest  to  you 
a  regulation  which  shall  forbid  any  person  in  a  religious  habit  to  sleep  outside  the  cloisters,  on  any 
prclenc*  whatever,  or  to  be  seen  in  the  streets  after  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening,  othenivise  they  shall 
l)€  CMtducted  back  to  their  convents  by  the  police.' " 


245  HOMEWARD-BOUND— MAGELL.\IS''S  STRAIT.  1926. 

notions,  tlie  Creator  of  the  universe,  surrounded  by  a  dazzling  glorj', 
like  the  rays  of  the  sun.  This  idol  was  held  in  such  great  veneration 
that  no  human  eye  except  the  priests'  was  suflcred  to  behold  it.  Even 
the  kings  dared  not  look  upon  it,  but  entered  tiie  temple  with  their 
backs  towards  the  altar,  and  came  out  again  without  daring  to  turn 
about. 

Pizarro  derived  great  riches  from  the  Temple  of  Pachamcamac,  to 
^he  amount  of  nine  hundred  thousand  ducats,  although  four  hundred 
Indians  had  taken  away  as  much  as  they  could  carry,  and  the  Spanish 
soldiers  had  pillaged  it  before  he  came.  The  ruins  which  still  remain 
give  a  splendid  idea  of  its  original  magnificence  ;  and  from  tlieir  appear- 
ance I  should  infer  that  the  temple  had  once  been  joined  to  the  palace 
of  an  inca,  and  also  to  a  kind  of  fortress,  connected  together  so  as  to 
form  one  building  full  half  a  league  in  circumference. 

February  6th. — After  examining  all  the  islands  on  tliis  part  of  the 
coast,  I  announced  to  my  faifliful  crew  that  we  should  now  steer  for 
home,  by  the  way  of  Magellan's  Strait  and  the  Falkland  Islands.  This 
information  lighted  up  a  smile  of  cheerfulness  on  every  countenance. 
This  was  on  Monday,  the  6th  of  February ;  the  weather  was  pleasant, 
and  the  wind  blew  from  south-south-east.  We  shaped  our  course  to 
the  south  and  west,  and  continued  steering  in  that  direction,  with  fine 
breezes  from  south-south-east,  for  twelve  days,  when  we  found  our- 
selves in  latitude  31°  4'  S.,  long.  87°  8' W. ;  when  we  took  calms,  and 
light  variable  w^inds,  which  lasted  for  two  days :  after  which  we  took 
strong  breezes  from  south-south-east  to  west,  with  occasional  foul 
weather  and  squalls ;  and  these  attended  us  until  we  arrived  at  the 
western  entrance  of  the  Strait  of  Magellan,  which  was  on  Saturday, 
March  the  4th,  1826. 

March  5th. — On  the  following  day,  at  7,  P.  M.,  we  came  to  an- 
chor in  a  small  bay,  about  five  miles  to  the  north-east  of  Cape  Froward, 
in  four  fathoms  of  water,  clay  bottom,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  off- 
shore. At  this  place  we  lay  several  days,  filling  our  water-casks, 
taking  on  board  a  supply  of  wood,  making  a  new  foreyard  and  sending 
it  aloft,  and  attending  to  other  necessary  matters. 

In  the  mean  time,  I  embraced  this  opportunity  of  making  another 
excursion  into  the  interior,  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  that  part  of  the 
country,  and  satisfying  myself  further  as  to  its  natural  productions.  I 
was  accompanied  on  this  occasion  by  the  same  intelligent  and  worthy 
young  men  who  attended  me  in  my  former  excursion,  as  mentioned  in 
the  previous  voyage,  viz.  Messrs.  Charles  and  William  Cox  and  John 
Simons.  We  proceeded  in  a  north-west  course,  as  nearly  as  the  une- 
qual face  of  the  country  would  permit,  and  penetrated  far  into  the  inte- 
lior,  along  the  base  of  the  Southern  Andes. 

I  regret  that  I  canirot  give  the  particulars  of  this  excursion  in  detail, 
as  my  minutes  were  unfortunately  lost.  Let  it  suffice,  therefore,  that 
we  were  absent  four  days,  during  which  period  we  discovered  several 
animal  and  vegetable  productions  which  had  escaped  our  observation 
on  the  former  occasion.  We  examined  several  species  of  timber,  the 
names  and  qualities  of  which  were  unknown  to  us,  but  which  exhibited 
a. -colour,  texture,  and  grain  admirably  adapted  to  elegant  cabinet-work. 


March.]  EXCURSION  INTO  THE  INTERIOR.  347 

We  also  encountered  great  numbers  of  guanacoes,  but  they  were  rery 
shy.  Our  attention,  however,  was  principally  engrossed  by  minerals, 
with  which,  I  am  convinced,  these  unexplored  regions  abound.  I  saw 
the  most  unequivocal  indications  of  copper,  lead,  and  iron,  of  which  I 
brouglit  home  several  specimens  that  were  examined  by  some  of  our 
most  scientific  men,  who  pronounced  them  to  be  equal  to  any  they  had 
ever  beheld. 

When  we  were  about  forty  miles  inland,  in  a  north-west  direction, 
we  came  to  a  perpendicular  cliff,  about  one  Inmdred  feet  in  height,  from 
which  a  mass  of  earth  and  rock  had  been  detached  to  the  height  of 
about  seventy-five  feet,  leaving  a  stratum  of  oyster-shells,  cemented  into 
a  solid  body,  and  completely  petrified.  With  considerable  difliculty, 
and  some  small  hazard,  I  procured  a  small  portion  of  this  petrified 
mass,  which  I  brought  away  with  me,  being  only  half  a  shell,  and 
weighing  four  pounds  and  two  ounces.  This  clifi"  was  at  least  four 
thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

March  9th. — On  our  return  to  the  I'artar  we  found  her  completely 
ready  for  sea,  so  diligently  had  the  crew  laboured  during  our  absence, 
under  the  direction  and  superintendence  of  that  vvorthy  officer  Mr.  Joha 
Nichols,  of  Salem  (Massachusetts),  who  now  commands  a  ship  in  the 
East  India  trade,  as  he  has  done  for  several  years  past.  I  took  this 
young  man  from  before  the  mast,  and  made  an  officer  of  him,  because 
his  intelligence,  fidelity,  and  uniform  good  conduct  had  convinced  me 
that  such  a  step  would  render  him  still  more  useful,  and  place  him  in 
a  sphere  more  suitable  to  his  talents.  I  was  not  deceived  in  my  judg- 
ment, and  he  came  home  first  ofiicer  of  the  Tartar.  He  then  went  to 
Salem  to  see  his  friends,  and  there  he  found  a  "  friend  indeed"  in  Na- 
thaniel Silsby,  Esq.,  of  that  place,  who  has  been  for  many  years  a 
senator  for  the  state  of  Massachusetts.  This  enlightened  statesman 
and  noble  philanthropist  immediately  gave  my  friend  Nichols  the  com- 
mand of  a  ship,  with  the  laudable  view  of  aiding  his  elevation  in  the 
world,  and  extending  his  sphere  of  usefulness.  I  would  attempt  to  ex- 
press my  feelings  on  this  subject,  as  regards  Mr.  8ilsby,  and  many 
other  worthies  like  him,  with  whom  it  has  been  my  good  fortune  to 
become  acquainted  in  the  voyage  of  life ;  but  I  fear  that  my  unprac- 
tised pen  would  instinctively  run  into  a  strain  of  adulation  that  is  always 
offensive  to  modest  merit.  I  therefore  shall  "  let  expressive  silence 
speak  their  praise." 

3Iarch  lOth. — On  Friday,  the  10th  of  March,  we  got  under  way  at 
one,  P.  M.,  and  sailed  to  the  north-east,  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  west- 
north-west,  and  clear  weather.  At  nine,  P.  M.,  we  anchored  in  front 
of  the  River  St.  Bartholomew,  in  three  fathoms  of  water,  two  cables' 
length  from  tlie  western  sliore.  Here  I  again  left  the  vessel  in  charge 
of  my  first  officer,  and  with  my  former  three  companions  made  an  ex- 
cursion into  the  interior  of  Patagonia,  as  we  all  had  a  longing  desire 
to  have  an  interview  with  tlie  natives  before  we  left  the  strait,  having 
heard  and  read  so  much  of  this  gigantic  race,  as  described  by  Magal- 
hanes,  Hyron.  and  others. 

liike  most  of  my  contemporaries,  I  have  treated  these  accounts  in  a 
style  of  light  burlesque  or  grave  skepticism :  not  that  I  ever  doubled 


248  STATURE  OF  THE  PATAGONIANS.  [1826. 

that  these  navigators  might  have  seen  men  of  six  and  a  half,  or  even 
seven  feet  in  height ;  for  many  skeletons  of  Indians  have  been  found 
in  the  western  states  of  North  America  of  a  still  greater  length :  but  I 
"wish  to  discountenance  all  exaggerated  accounts  of  foreign  parts,  which 
have  a  tendency  to  deter  investigation  and  commercial  enterprise. 
Hawkins,  for  instance,  gravely  cautions  navigators  to  beware  of  the 
natives  on  the  coast  of  Magellan  : — "  They  are  cruel  and  treacherous," 
says  he ;  "  and  of  so  lofty  a  stature  that  several  voyagers  have  called 
them  giants."  Such  gratuitous  and  unnecessary  cautions  have  been 
ihe  principal  cause  that  this  interesting  region  has  never  yet  been 
explored. 

From  all  I  have  seen,  heard,  and  read  on  the  subject,  I  have  no  doubt 
that  the  Patagonians  were  once  (as  some  of  them  are  now),  the  tallest 
race  of  men  in  the  world.  They  were  seen  by  Magalhanes  and  others 
a  long  time  ago,  and  there  seems  to  be  a  natural  tendency  in  all  ani- 
jnated  nature  to  degenerate  in  size.  Other  countries  have  at  a  former 
period  contained  inhabitants  of  as  gigantic  a  size  as  that  imputed  to  the 
Patagonians  three  centuries  ago ;  but  their  descendants  are  now  de- 
generated by  luxury,  refinement,  and  intermarriages  with  others  of  a 
small  stature.  The  Patagonians,  separated  from  the  rest  of  mankind, 
]iave  not  degenerated  by  luxury  or  refinement ;  but  there  is  no  doubt 
that  they  have  from  oppression.  From  whatever  stock  they  may 
}iave  descended,  they  were  doubtless  once  existing  under  more 
favourable  circumstances  than  at  present.  They  have  been  driven 
from  the  southern  banks  of  the  La  Plata,  and  the  pampas  of  eternal 
verdure,  where  they  once  grazed  their  flocks  and  herds,  to  the  extreme 
southern  verge  of  the  continent,  where  they  preferred  to  starve  in  free- 
dom and  independence,  rather  than  become  slaves  to  their  remorseless 
and  unprincipled  invaders.  They  are  now  but  the  scattered  fragments 
of  a  colossal  fabric — the  ruins  of  a  pastoral  nation.  Though  their 
minds  have  scorned  to  bend,  it  is  not  surprising  if  their  bodies  have 
degenerated  in  stature. 

One  thing  is  certain,  as  I  can  assert  it  from  my  own  observation  and 
actual  inspection, — there  is  just  as  strong  testimony  in  favour  of  a 
former  gigantic  race  in  Patagonia  as  there  is  in  favour  of  the  former 
existence  in  our  own  country  of  a  race  of  animals  now  known  by  the 
appellation  of  mammoth.  AVe  have  the  bones,  and  even  entire  skele- 
tons of  this  huge  creature  in  our  museums  ;  and  I  have  seen  in  the 
interior  of  Patagonia  the  bones  and  entire  skeletons  of  men  who,  when 
living,  must  have  measured  more  than  seven  feet  in  height.  'I'he 
tombs  or  sepulchres  in  which  I  found  them  were  covered  with  large 
heaps  of  stones,  probably  to  prevent  their  being  molested  by  wild  beasts. 
The  position  of  these  was  uniformly  the  same,  with  the  head  to  the 
east ;  and  I  sincerely  regret  that  after  thus  violating  the  sanctity  of 
their  final  resting-place,  I  had  not  silenced  skepticism  by  taking  pos- 
session of  one  of  these  gigantic  skeletons,  and  bringing  it  to  the  United 
States.  Such  an  acquisition  to  a  museum  would  be  a  very  suitable 
accompaniment  to  the  mammoth,  and  such  a  one  shall  be  exhibited  if 
I  ever  visit  Patagonia  again. 

On  the  present  occasion  we  proceeded  into  the  country,  on  a  west- 


March.]  LEAVE  MAGELLAN'S  STRAIT.  249 

by-norih  course,  for  about  twenty-live  miles,  travelling  over  an  undu* 
iating  soil,  well  covered  with  grass  and  small  shrubbery,  but  almost 
entirely  destitute  of  trees.  At  the  distance  just  mentioned,  we  came 
to  a  thick  and  heavy-timbered  forest,  which  we  found  it  necessary  to 
approach  with  extreme  caution,  as  it  was  evidently  tenanted  by  wild 
beasts,  some  of  which  we  were  aware,  by  certain  unequivocal  indica- 
tions, were  not  of  the  most  lamb-like  propensities.  The  tracks  of  lions 
and  tigers  were  easily  distinguished ;  and  we  saw  a  great  number  of 
foxes,  deer,  hares,  guanacoes,  luitrias,  horses,  and  a  few  black-cattle. 
Ostriches  were  numerous,  and  every  tree  afforded  lodgment  to  various 
kinds  of  birds,  of  exquisite  plumage,  some  of  which  were  pouring  forth 
strains  of  the  sweetest  sylvan  melody. 

Lead  and  copper  ore  we  found  in  considerable  quantities  lying  upon 
the  surface  of  the  earth,  having  been  broken  off  from  the  projecting 
cliffs  which  overhung  the  beautiful  valleys  through  which  we  passed. 
Petrified  oyster-shells  also  presented  themselves  in  the  sides  of  several 
precipitous  rocks,  at  a  considerable  distance  above  their  base. 

But  the  most  interesting  incident  of  our  excursion  was  an  interview 
with  the  natives,  who  treated  us  in  the  most  friendly  and  hospitable 
manner,  although  it  was  with  extreme  difficulty  that  we  could  make 
them  understand  our  meaning  on  any  subject.  As  usual,  they  were  all 
on  horseback,  men,  women,  and  children,  at  the  time  we  fell  in  with 
them,  with  large  droves  of  guanacoes  under  their  care  ;  but  they  soon 
dismounted,  and  made  preparations  for  a  repast,  of  which  they  invited 
us  to  partake.  One  of  their  number,  who  appeared  very  expert  in  the 
double  office  of  butcher  and  cook,  killed  a  tine  fat  guanaco,  and  after 
dressing  it  in  suitable  manner,  roasted  it  by  a  large  lire  which  was  kin- 
dled for  the  purpose.  We  all  ate  heartily  of  it,  and  pronounced  it 
equal  to  the  finest  mutton  we  had  ever  tasted.  The  wool  of  these  ani- 
mals is  equal  to  the  best  merino. 

These  men  were  tail,  and  well  proportioned.  Several  w^hom  we 
measured  stood  six  feet  two  inches,  and  six  feet  three  inches  ;  one  only 
was  six  feet  four  inches,  and  he  was  the  tallest  we  saw.  Their  horse- 
manship is  equal  to  that  of  the  Chiloteze,  the  Mamelukes,  or  any 
equestrians  I  liave  ever  seen.  A  company  of  them  in  a  New-York 
circus  would  soon  secure  the  manager  a  fortune.  Both  sexes  ride 
alike,  and  their  dress  is  nearly  the  same,  such  as  I  have  already  de- 
scribed in  another  place.  On  intimating  our  intention  of  departing,  they 
politely  furnished  each  of  us  a  horse,  and  escorted  us  near  to  the 
vessel ;  they  then  suddenly  left  us,  as  if  under  apprehensions  of  meet- 
ing with  a  hostile  tribe.  They  were  all  armed  with  spears,  bows  and 
arrows,  and  the  lasso. 

March  \^th. — ^\Ve  arrived  on  board  the  Tartar  on  Monday,  and  at 
9,  P.  M.,  we  got  under  way,  and  steered  for  the  eastern  mouth  of  the 
strah,  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  west-south-west,  and  clear  weather. 
On  the  following  morning,  at  7  o'clock,  we  passed  Cape  Virgin,  and  at 
9,  A.  M.,  we  took  our  departure  therefrom,  tlie  cape  bearing  west-by- 
south,  distant  seven  leagues. 

March  I5tk. — On  Wednesday  we  arrived  at  the  Falkland  Islands  ; 
and  at  8,  P.  M.,  anchored  in  Hallett's  Harbour,  in  four  fathoms  of 


250       SEARCH  FOR  ISLE  GRANDE— ST.  PAUL»S  ROCKS.     [1826. 

water,  clay  bottom.  On  the  following  day,  after  taking  on  board  one 
hundred  and  eighty-four  geese,  which  had  been  shot  by  the  crew,  we 
got  under  way  at  9,  P.  M.,  and  once  more  shaped  our  course  for  "  the 
land  of  the  free  and  the  home  of  the  brave/' 

With  a  fresh  breeze  from  south-south-west,  attended  with  light  snow- 
squalls,  we  now  shaped  our  course  for  the  island  of  lia  Grande,  said 
to  have  been  seen  by  La  Hoche,  in  the  year  1675.  La  Perouse,  by 
order  of  the  French  government,  afterward  sought  for  this  island  with- 
out success,  as  did  also  Vancouver  and  Colnett,  by  command  of  the 
British  govennnent. 

lia  Koche  places  this  island  in  lat.  43^  10'  south,  long.  3P  15' 
•west,  and  describes  it  as  having  a  good  harbour  on  its  eastern  side ;  as 
being  ver}'  pleasant,  abounding  whh  wood  and  water,  and  having  an 
abundance  of  fish  around  its  shores.  He  tells  us  that  it  is  moderately 
elevated,  being  about  two  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
about  forty  miles  in  circumference.  Although  La  Koche  lay  at  anchor 
in  the  harbour  on  the  east  end  of  the  island  for  six  days,  he  saw  no 
inhabitants.  Although  doubtful  of  its  existence,  I  felt  sufficiently  in- 
terested in  the  subject  to  spend  a  few  days  in  search  of  this  island. 

March  2\st. — On  Tuesday  we  were  in  lat.  44°  55'  south,  long.  35^ 
43'  west.  We  now  made  a  due  east  course  until  our  longitude  was 
30°  ir  west;  when  we  stood  to  the  north,  to  latitude  44°  2'  south; 
and  then  to  the  west,  in  the  last  parallel,  until  our  longitude  was 
30°  7'  west.     This  was  on  Saturday,  the  25th. 

March  25th. — We  now  stood  to  the  north,  with  a  fine  breeze  from 
south-south-west,  and  fair  weather,  until  we  were  in  lat.  43°  10'  south, 
ivhen  we  again  stood  to  the  east,  keeping  very  nearly  in  the  last- 
mentioned  parallel,  by  the  assistance  of  meridian  altitudes  of  the  planets, 
and  double  altitudes  of  the  sun. 

March  27th. — We  continued  making  a  due  east  course  until  Monday, 
when  we  were  in  lat.  43°  7'  south,  long.  28°  52'  west.  After  running 
over  all  this  ground,  keeping  two  men  at  the  mast-head  all  the  time, 
with  fine  clear  weather,  and  a  steady  breeze  from  south-soitth-east  to 
south-south-west,  without  meeting  with  any  indications  of  land,  we 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  La  Roche's  island  of  Grande  was  either  a 
nonentity,  or  that  it  must  have  sunk  since  its  discovery ;  for  if  it  had 
still  been  in  existence,  and  within  fifty  miles  of  the  location  assigned 
to  it,  we  must  have  seen  it.  We  therefore  resolved  to  waste  no  more 
time  in  the  fruitless  search ;  but  bore  up  and  steered  to  the  north,  with 
a  strong  breeze  from  south-west,  and  pleasant  weather. 

April  2d. — On  Sunday  we  took  the  south-east  trade-winds,  in  lat. 
27°  30'  south,  long.  28°  40'  west,  and  pursued  our  course  to  the  north. 

April  \2th. — On  Wednesday,  at  2,  A.  M.,  we  crossed  the  equator 
in  longitude  29°  0'  west,  and  at  8,  A.  M.,  we  passed  within  about  one- 
fourth  of  a  mile  of  Penedo  de  San  Pedro,  or  St.  Paul's  Rocks  ;  which 
are  in  lat.  0°  55'  30"  north,  long.  29°  16' west.  These  islands,  as 
they  are  sometimes  called,  are  nothing  more  than  a  cluster  of  craggy 
rocks,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  north  to  south,  and  nearly  the 
same  from  east  to  west.  They  are  five  in  number,  but  only  two  of 
them  are  of  much  magnitude.     They  are  entirely  destitute  of  vegeta- 


May.]  ARRIVAL  AT  NEW-YORK.  251 

tion,  and  present  an  aspect  of  the  most  drearj'  description,  the  sea 
roaring  and  surging  against  them  on  every  side.  The  two  largest  are 
nearly  connected  with  each  other,  thus  forming  a  kind  of  harbour,  or 
place  of  shelter,  for  a  boat,  on  the  north-west  side,  where  it  is  some- 
times practicable  to  land,  if  a  few  boobies  and  their  eggs  be  consid- 
ered a  sufficient  inducement ;  and  these  can  only  be  found  in  the  month 
of  November. 

Two  small  rocks  lie  oft"  to  the  south-south-west  of  the  large  ones,  and 
another  small  one  lies  off"  to  the  north-east,  all  above  water.  The  large 
rocks  are  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  may 
be  seen  at  the  distance  of  ten  or  twelve  miles,  when  they  will  appear, 
from  nearly  all  points  of  the  compass,  like  three  sails.  There  are  no 
dangers  around  them,  more  than  one  cable's  length  distance,  that  do 
not  show  themselves  above  water ;  and  fish  may  be  caught  here  in 
abundance ;  the  fishermen  may  be  caught  likewise,  if  they  are  not  on 
the  look-out  for  the  enormous  sharks,  which  are  very  numerous  among 
these  rocks. 

The  course  of  the  current  here  is  north-west-by-west,  from  one  to 
one  and  a  half  miles  an  hour,  which  is  very  apt  to  throw  the  navigator 
out  of  his  reckoning,  unless  he  be  very  particular  in  his  astronomical 
observations. 

April  I3th. — We  now  continued  our  course  towards  the  United 
States  ;  and  on  Thursday  lost  the  south-east  trades  in  lat.  4°  15'  north. 
For  the  two  folloM^ng  days  we  had  light  variable  winds,  attended  with 
heavy  falls  of  rain. 

•  April  16M. — On  Simday  we  took  the  north-east  trade-winds,  in  lat. 
7'  45'  north,  long.  33*^  27'  west,  which  blew  strong  from  norih-north- 
oast  to  north-cast-by-cast,  attended  with  pleasant  weather,  which  con- 
tinued for  the  remainder  of  the  month. 

April  30th. — On  Sunday  the  north-east  trade-winds  left  us  in  lat. 
29^  30'  north,  long.  64°  20'  west,  and  on  the  following  day  we  took 
the  wind  from  south-south-west,  with  fair  weather,  which  lasted  about 
twenty-four  hours  ;  after  which  we  had  light  variable  winds  and  occa- 
sional foul  weather  for  the  remainder  of  the  voyage. 

May  8tli. — On  Monday  we  arrived  at  the  port  of  New- York,  with 
a  cargo  of  rising  six  thousand  fur-seal  skins ;  and  I  had  the  satisfac- 
tion of  finding  oil  my  friends  and  relations  in  good  health.  Thus  ends 
this  journal  of  a  voyage  of  twenty-one  months  and  eighteen  days ; 
during  which  I  had  sufl"ered  more  bodily  fatigue,  and  encountered  more 
formidable  dangers,  than  I  had  experienced  in  either  of  my  former 
voyages. 

Though  many  warm  hearts  bounded  with  joy  to  greet  my  safe  return, 
the  reception  I  met  with  from  my  owners  was,  to  my  utter  astonish- 
ment, cold  and  repulsive.  I  had  congratulated  myself  on  having  made 
such  a  voyage  as  would  give  satisfaction  to  all  parlies  ;  but  to  my  ex- 
treme mortification,  soon  discovered  that  my  pleasing  anticipations 
were  not  to  be  realized.  The  Tartar  did  not  return  laden  with  silver 
and  gold,  and  therefore  all  my  toils  and  dangers,  privations  and  Jiard- 
ships,  were  counted  as  nothing.  Is  the  pleasure  of  a  safe  return  to  the 
bosom  of  my  home  always  to  be  thus  irabittered  by  some  appalling  dis- 


252  MORE  DISAPPOINTMENTS.      ^  [1826. 

appointment !     Let  me  rather  forget  all  my  misfortunes  in  the  deep 
caverns  of  the  Antarctic  Ocean. 

I  could  pursue  this  subject  much  further,  but  would  not  willingly 
obtrude  my  private  griefs  upon  the  patient  reader,  whom  I  now  invite 
to  accompany  me  on  my  third  voyage,  which  did  not  take  place  until 
June,  1828,  when  I  visited  the  coast  of  Africa.  In  the  mean  time, 
however,  I  made  several  trips  to  Europe, 


THIRD  VOYAGE. 

TO  THE 

SOUTH  AND  WEST  COAST  OF  AFRICA. 


CHAPTER  T. 

The  Schooner  Antarctic,  built  expressly  for  this  Voyage — Sails  from  New- York 
— Reflections  on  leaving  Land — A  vertical  Sun — Arrive  at  the  Cape  Verd 
Islands — General  Description  of  the  Group — Island  of  St.  Antonio,  with  its 
natural  Productions — St.  Lucia — St.  Vincent — St.  Nicholas — Natural  Produc- 
tions— Indolence  and  Slaverj' — A  Peep  at  the  Interior — Condition  of  the  Slaves 
— The  Influence  of  Music — Abundance  of  Fish — Island  of  Sal — Drearj'  Aspect 
of  the  Country — Arrive  at  the  Island  of  Bonavista. 

From  the  high  destiny  which  awaited  the  justly  famed  schooner 
Antarctic,  in  being  the  first  visitant  to  a  thickly  peopled  countrj',  never 
before  seen  or  heard  of  by  civilized  man,  it  may  be  inferred  that  her 
keel  was  laid  under  the  auspices  of  some  benign  planet,  whose  in- 
fluences are  favourable  to  the  progress  of  geographical  science.  What- 
ever may  be  the  reward  or  the  fate  of  him  who  guided  this  gallant  little 
vessel  through  the  perilous  and  pathless  regions  of  unexplored  seas  to 
a  new  world  of  countless  riches,  nothing  shall  deprive  the  beautiful 
Antarctic  of  her  due  share  of  honour  and  fame.  Her  fine-modelled 
hull  and  keel  of  genuine  American  oak  were  the  first  that  ever  dis- 
turbed the  crystal  waters  and  silver  sands  of  this  new-discovered  archi- 
pelago ;  and  her  name  shall  be  remembered  with  respect  and  gratitude 
by  every  future  mariner  who  gathers  up  a  cargo  of  the  treasures  which 
lie  scattered,  in  boundless  profusion,  around  the  shores  of  these  highly 
favoured  islands :  treasures  which  are  now  unvalued  by  the  natives, 
and  unknown  to  the  rest  of  mankind. 

But  under  whatever  auspices  her  keel  might  have  been  laid,  the 
schooner  Antarctic  was  built  under  my  own  directions  and  superintend- 
ence, by  Christian  Bergh,  Esq.,  of  this  city ;  a  first-rate  ship-builder, 
a  highly  respected  citizen,  and  a  most  worthy  man.  She  was  as  fine 
a  vessel  of  her  class  as  ever  floated  on  salt  water,  being  only  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy -two  tons  burthen  ;  of  an  admirable  model,  and  most 
completely  rigged.  The  Antarctic  was  owned  by  Messrs.  Christian 
Bergh  &,  Co.,  Charles  L.  Livingston,  and  Captain  William  Skiddy ; 
and  first  rested  on  the  bosom  of  her  appropriate  element  on  Saturday, 
the  3 1st  da>-  of  May,  1828. 


254  •  J?AIL  FROM  NEW-YORK.  ♦  [1828. 

They  called  her  the  Antarctic  in  compliment  to  myself,  I  being  the 
only  American  shipmaster  who  had  ever  passed  within  that  circle  ;  and 
also  with  reference  to  tlic  future  probability  of  her  penetrating  still 
farther  towards  the  south  pole.  In  fact,  she  was  purposely  adapted, 
in  size,  model,  strength,  speed,  and  equipment,  for  hazardous  adventure 
and  voyages  of  discovery.  In  twenty-two  days  from  the  time  she  was 
launched,  the  Antarctic  was  completely  finished  and  ready  for  sea, 
being  most  liberally  and  bountifully  supplied  with  every  thing  necessary 
lor  a  voyage  to  the  southern  and  western  coast  of  Africa,  to  procure  a 
cargo  of  the  delicate  furs,  and  such  other  articles  of  luxuiy  as  those 
imexplored  regions  can  furnish  in  unlimited  profusion.  1  assumed  the 
command  of  the  Antarctic  on  the  24th  of  June,  18*28. 

June  25tJi. — On  Wednesday,  the  25ih  of  Jmie,  I  went  on  board, 
at  one,  P.  ]M.,  where  I  found  the  pilot  lying  of!"  and  on.  AVe  im- 
mediately proceeded  down  the  bay,  with  a  light  breeze  from  south- 
south-west,  and  fair  wbather.  At  six,  P.  M.,  we  discharged  the  pilot, 
and  at  eight  we  took  our  departure  from  Sandy  Hook  light,  bearing 
jiorth-west,  distant  five  leagues,  wind  as  before.  I  thus  commenced 
another  voj^age  to  distant  regions,  with  a  line  new  substantial  vessel, 
and  a  strong  healthy  crew  of  twenty-three  active  men,  in  whose  faces 
the  love  of  enterprise  and  liie  hope  of  bettering  their  circumstances 
had  kindled  the  most  animating  smiles  of  cheerfulness.  AVe  were  em- 
barked on  what  was  then  expected  to  be  a  two-years'  voyage  on  the 
coast  of  Africa,  in  the  South  Seas,  and  in  the  South  Pacific  Ocean. 

But  however  animated  and  cheerful  men  may  appear  on  such  occa- 
sions, could  we  look  into  the  secret  recesses  of  their  bosoms,  we  should 
there  find  some  acute  feelings  of  the  most  touching  cliaracter.  As  their 
native  land  recedes  from  view,  and  becomes  finally  lost  in  the  distant 
liorizon,  a  feeling  of  desolation  steals  over  the  heart,  which  even  the 
most  active  duties  will  not  immediately  dissipate.  Country,  family, 
friends,  are  all  far  behind  ;  while  the  thick  veil  which  conceals  the 
future  is  impervious  to  every  thing  but  the  rays  of  hope.  In  all  human 
probability  there  are  some  individuals  in  every  outward-bound  ship's 
company  who  have  gazed  upon  their  native  land  for  the  last  time  ;  and 
the  heart  of  each  instinctively  asks,  "Lord,  is  it  I?"  But  were  we 
even  permitted  to  look  so  far  into  the  future  as  to  obtain  satisfactory 
assurance  of  our  own  safe  return,  another  question  would  immediately 
follow  of  an  interest  equally  intense  :  AVhat  ties  of  affection  will  be 
severed  by  death  during  our  absence  ? 

"  Tor  sailors,  though  they  have  (heir  jokes. 
Still  feel  and  think  like  other  folks." 

Many  of  my  present  crew  were  fine,  active,  noble-spirited  young 
men,  of  respectable  families  and  connexions  in  the  city  of  New- York 
They  duly  felt  and  appreciated  the  tender  ties  of  affection  and  kindred 
They  had  parents,  brothers,  sisters,  and  some  of  them  attachments  of 
a  still  more  interesting  character ;  and  when  I  caught  their  eager  coun 
tenances  turned  to  the  fast-receding  heights  of  Neversink,  I  respected 
the  sentiment  too  much  to  throw  any  unnecessary  check  across  its 


% 
I 


July]  STEER  FOR  THE  CAPE  VERD  ISL.\NDS.  ^55 

current.     I  felt  that  there  was  a  chord  in  my  own  bosom  that  vibrated 
in  unison  with  tlieirs.  ' 

Among  my  new  recruits  was  a  very  interesting  young  man,  named 
William  Ogden,  whose  age  was  a  few  months  short  of  one-and-tvventy. 
He  shipped  only  the  day  before  we  sailed,  and  under  circumstances, 
as  I  afterward  learned,  somewhat  peculiar.  He  was  a  son  of  the  late 
Benjamin  Ogden,  surgeon-dentist,  and  brother  of  the  present  Doctor 
Benjamin  Ogden  of  the  city  of  New- York.  His  amiable  qualities  soon 
gained  and  secured  him  the  good-will  of  every  man  on  board ;  and  I 
became  imperceptibly  so  strongly  attached  to  him  that  he  seemed  to 
me  like  a  brother.  But  as  I  shall  frequently  have  occasion  to  speak 
of- him  in  the  course  of  this  voyage,  I  shall  now  leave  him  for  the 
present,  and  attend  to  the  tracing  of  our  course  from  Sandy  Hook  light- 
house to  the  Cape  Verd  Islands. 

We  stretched  far  to  the  east,  along  the  parallels  of  37^  and  30°  north 
latitude,  with  variable  winds  and  changeable  weather,  for  more  than  a 
week,  without  the  occurrence  of  any  thing  worthy  of  record.  Our 
object  was  to  make  the  Cape  Verd  Islands  by  the  most  direct  course 
the  winds  and  weather  \w)uld  admit  of,  as  we  were  there  to  procure 
salt  and  other  necessaries  for  the  voyage. 

July  -ith. — On  Friday,  the  4th  of  July,  we  were  in  latitude  36°  0' 
north,  long.  47°  30'  west.  This  being  the  anniversary  of  our  national 
independence,  we  celebrated  it  in  the  usual  nautical  style,  by  displaying 
our  stars  and  stripes,  tiring  a  federal  salute,  and  making  a  few  tempe- 
rate libations  to  the  goddess  of  Liberty.  On  the  following  day  I  com- 
pleted the  thirty-third  year  of  my  age. 

Juli/  I6th. — On  Wednesday,  the  16th,  we  took  the  north-east 
trade- winds  in  latitude  28°  30'  N.,  long.  31^^  0'  W.,  which  continued 
from  north-east  to  east,  attended  with  fair  weather,  for  several  days. 
We  crossed  the  tropic  of  Cancer  on  the  18th,  in  long.  29°  0'  W. 

July  20th. — On  Sunday,  the  20th,  being  in  latitude  20°  N.,  the 
sun  was  vertical  at  twelve,  M.,  the  declination  and  our  latitude  dif- 
fering but  two  miles.  At  this  time,  in  taking  an  observation,  the  sun 
Dearly  swept  the  horizon  at  all  points  of  the  compass,  and  no  perpen- 
dicular object  produced  a  shadov/.  The  thermometer  at  this  time 
stood  at  89°,  and  the  temperature  of  the  water  was  80°. 

It  has  been  justly  observed  that  "  a  vertical  sun  is  as  much  a  miracle 
to  an  extra-tropical  inhabitant,  as  snow  and  ice  to  an  inter-tropical  one." 
It  is  certainly  a  wonderful  sight,  and  yet  it  has  become  so  familiar  to 
mariners  that  they  seldom  notice  it  at  all,  and  scarcely  ever  in  their 
journals.  To  be  surrounded  by  solar  beams,  descending  perpendicu- 
larly upon  your  head — to  be  enveloped  in  a  shroud  of  sunshine,  clothed 
in  a  mantle  of  light,  without  a  shadow  or  a  visible  sun  until  you  change 
your  position — is  a  phenomenon  of  much  sublimity  to  a  philosophic 
observer. 

"  Yoar  form  no  darkling  «badow  itrovrs 
Vpon  the  >e8se;'8  dtck.'' 

July  22d. — On  Tuesday,  the  22d,  at  one,  P.  M.,  we  passed 
close  along  tlie  north  side   of  the   island  of  St.  Antonio,  the  most 


256  CAPE  VERDS.  [18og. 

northern  and  western  of  the  Cape  Verd  Islands.  The  centre  of 
this  island  is  in  latuiide  17°  4'  N.,  long.  25°  23'  W. ;  and  in  clear 
weather  it  may  be  seen  from  a  ship's  deck  at  the  distance  of  twenty- 
live  leagues.  This  is  not  often  the  case,  however,  as  hazy  and  cloudy 
weather  generally  prevails  among  these  islands. 

Although  the  general  appellation  of  "Cape  Verd  Islands"  is  fa- 
miliar to  readers  of  all  classes,  I  find  that  there  are  great  numbers  of 
people  who  are  totally  ignorant  of  their  history,  and  even  of  their  loca- 
tion. For  the  information  of  such,  I  shall  drop  a  few  words  before  I 
proceed  any  further  with  my  journal. 

The  broadest  part  of  that  vast  section  of  the  globe  called  Africa  extends 
from  Cape  Guardafui,  on  the  east,  to  Cape  Verd  on  the  west,  a  dis- 
tance of  nearly  ybe^r  tlwusand  six  hundred  miles  !  Cape  Verd  points 
due  west  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  in  latitude  14°  44'  N.,  about  one 
hundred  and  forty-five  miles  north-west  of  the  mouth  of  the  river  Gam- 
bia, and  is  of  course  the  most  westerly  land  of  Africa.  Cape  Verd 
projects  from  that  part  of  Africa  called  Senegambia,  renowned  for  its 
inexhaustible  fertility  of  soil,  as  well  as  for  the  ferocious  perversity  of 
the  natives.  Whether  this  cape  has  derived  its  name  from  its  natural 
verdure,  or,  as  some  pretend, from  a  green  marine  vegetable  that  abounds 
in  those  waters,  I  cannot  presume  to  determine  ;  at  all  events,  it  has 
given  its  name  to  a  group  of  islands  lying  about  one  hundred  leagues 
westward  of  the  coast,  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  between  the  fourteenth 
and  eighteenth  degrees  of  north  latitude. 

These  islands  were  first  discovered  by  the  Portuguese,  in  the  year 
1446.  They  are  said  to  have  been  known  to  the  ancients  under  the 
name  of  Gorgades  ;  but  not  visited  by  the  moderns  till  they  were  dis- 
covered, in  the  year  just  mentioned,  by  Anthony  Noel,  a  Genoese  in 
the  service  of  Portugal,  and  received  their  general  name  from  their 
situation  opposite  Cape  Verd.  They  are  ten  in  number,  besides  islets^ 
and  rocks,  lying  nearly  in  a  semicircle.  Their  names  are  St.  Antonio, 
St.  Vincent,  St.  Lucia,  Branco,  llaza,  St.  Nicholas,  Sal,  Bonavista, 
Mayo,  St.  Jago,  Fuego,  and  Brava.  Of  all  these,  St.  Jago  is  the 
principal. 

These  islands  are  generally  mountainous  ;  some  of  them  are  baiTen 
and  uninhabited  ;  others  are  very  productive.  Notwithstanding  the 
droughts  to  which  they  are  subject,  their  natural  produce  in  cotton, 
indigo,  fruits,  salt,  ^oat-skins,  and  turtle  oil,  might  give  them  a  consider- 
able value  under  a  more  hitelligent  government.  Their  actual  popula- 
tion is  estimated  at  forty-two  thousand  souls.  The  air  is  hot  and  in- 
salubrious, rain  being  very  rare  ;  but  a  north-east  breeze  commonly 
rises  before  four  o'clock,  P.  M. 

The  marine  vegetable  before  alluded  to,  from  which  some  say  these 
islands  derive  their  name,  is  called  by  the  Portuguese  mar  de  sargasso^ 
or  sea-lentils  ;  it  resembles  watercresses  in  appearance,  and  produces  a 
berry  somewhat  like  the  gooseberry.  In  some  places  it  is  so  abundant 
as  to  impede  the  progress  of  vessels  in  their  course.  To  the  north  of 
these  islands,  according  to  the  best  authorities, "  the  waters  of  the  ocean 
disappear  under  a  thick  bed  of  seaweed,  which,  like  a  floating  meadow, 
extends  as  far  as  the  twenty-fifth  parallel,  and  occupies  a  space  of  sixty 


July.]  ^-^PE  VERBS— ST.  ANTONIO.  257 

thousand  square  leagues ;  from  which  ships  disengage  themselves  with 
difficulty.  Other  masses  of  seaweed  are  also  seen  in  parts  of  the  sea 
more  to  the  north-west,  between  the  tropic  of  Cancer  and  the  Azores." 
Columbus,  in  his  first  voyage,  passed  through  this  marine  meadow,  to 
the  no  small  alarm  of  his  timid  companions. 

^       As  these  islands  lie  several  hundred  miles  west  from  the  continent, 

y  they  are  not  subject  to  such  intense  heat  as  is  experienced  on  the  coast 
of  Senegambia  in  the  same  latitude,  which  is  caused  by  the  east  trade- 
winds  arriving  on  this  coast  after  having  swept  over  the  burning  surface 
of  Africa  in  all  its  breadth,  of  more  than  four  thousand  miles.     In  thus 

^  passing  over  the  sultry  continent,  the  air  acquires  a  great  capacity  for 
imbibing  moisture  ;  and  consequently  in  continuing  its  progress  west- 
ward over  the  ocean  to  the  Verd  Islands,  it  becomes,  in  the  dry  season, 
saturated  to  the  highest  point,  so  that  the  least  diminution  of  tempera- 

^  ture  causes  it  to  deposite  abundant  vapour.  Not  only  the  highest  peak 
of  St.  Antonio,  which  has  an  elevation  of  more  tlian  seven  thousand 
feet,  but  also  the  whole  central  ridije  of  hills  on  all  the  islands,  down 
to  two  thousand  feet,  are  generally  enveloped  in  clouds,  from  tea 
o'clock  in  the  morning  until  late  in  the  evening.  This  humidity  clothes 
the  hills  with  thick  pasture  grass,  giving  to  the  country  a  feature  en- 

.    tirely  unlocked  for  in  so  low  a  lathude. 

W  St.  Antonio,  being  the  most  northern  and  western  of  the  Cape 
Verd  Islands,  is  often  adopted  as  the  point  from  which  ships  take  their 
^departure  when  bound  to  diiferent  parts  of  the  East  Indies.*  Indeed, 
before  the  late  improvements  in  nautical  science,  the  perfection  of  chro- 
nometers, and  the  use  of  lunar  observations,  it  vras  highly  necessarj'  to 
make  this  or  some  other  island  of  the  group,  in  order  to  correct  the 
ship's  reckoning.  At  present,  however,  the  making  of  land  for  this 
purpose  is  not  considered  essential,  v/here  the  master  has  good  instru- 
ments on  board,  and  understands  the  use  oithem.     Still  St.  Antonio  may 

.  ..i)e  passed  in  sight,  the  island  being  to  the  eastward  of  the  ship,  without 
any  apprehensions  of  delay  from  calms  or  light  winds,  if  the  vessel 
does  not  come  within  twenty  miles  of  the  land. 

Ships  bound  from  Europe  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  or  by  that 
route  to  the  East  Indies,  generally  take  their  departure  from  one  of  the 
Cape  Verd  Islands,  and  then  steer  south-west,  stretching  over  towards 
the  coast  of  Brazil  so  as  to  cross  the  equator  between  the  meridians  of 
28*^  and  30^  west  longitude.  This  apparently  round-about  course  is 
adopted  to  avoid  the  tedious  calms  and  adverse  cuiTcnts  which  con- 
tinually prevail  on  the  coast  of  Guinea.  For  south  of  the  Cape  de 
Verd  Islands,  "  even  along  the  meridians  of  these  very  islands,  that  part 
of  the  ocean  must  be  traversed,  so  fatal  to  navigators,  where  long  calms 
detain  the  ships  under  a  sky  charged  with  electric  clouds,  pouring 
down  by  turns  torrents  of  rain  and  fiie.  This  sea  of  thunder^  being  a 
focus  of  mortal  diseases,  is  avoided  as  much  as  possible  both  in  ap- 
proachinjr  the  coast  of  Africa  and  in  seeking  those  of  America."* 
Though  this  western  course  involves  the  greatest  distance,  it  always 

*  MiUte  Brun. 

R 


2^56  St.  ANTONIO— ST.  VINCENt*d.  [1828. 

y)rovcs  to  be  the  shortest  in  the  end,  as  they  who  adopt  it  never  lack 
westerly  winds  to  waft  them  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

The  island  of  St.  Antonio  is  about  twenty-two  miles  in  length  and 
tweh'e  wide,  stretcliing  from  north-east  to  south-west,  and  aboimding 
with  high  mountains,  whose  tops  are  constantly  covered  with  snow, 
•end  are  generally  hid  in  the  clouds  :  some  say  they  are  equal  in  eleva- 
tion to  the  Peak  of  TenerilTe.  In  approaching  this  island  there  are  no 
dangers  to  be  avoided  ;  the  water  is  bold  all  around  it,  and  it  may  be 
circumnavigated  with  perfect  safety  a  cable's  length  from  the  shore. 

There  are  several  good  anchoring  places  on  the  south  and  west 
sides  of  this  island,  where  wood  and  water  may  be  had  with  despatch. 
The  town  and  custom-house,  however,  are  on  its  northern  extremity 
just  witliin  a  narrow  point  of  land  that  extends  off  to  the  north-west, 
and  affords  smooth  landing  for  boats  all  the  year  round.  Here  may 
be  procured,  in  gTeat  abundance,  black-cattle,  sheep,  goats,  hogs,  and 
poultry,  by  giving  one  day's  notice,  together  with  vegetables  and  fruits 
of  the  finest  growth  and  flavour,  in  any  quantity,  and  at  very  moderate 
prices. 

The  population  of  this  island  is  estimated  at  about  five  hundred  per- 
sons, chiefly  negroes,  under  the  protection  of  the  Portuguese.  The 
soil  is  good,  well  watered,  and  produces  the  indigo-plant,  the  dragon- 
tree,  orange  and  lemon-trees  ;  palms,  melons,  bacovas,  pomegranates, 
and  the  sugar-cane.  The  potato  and  the  melon  are  particularly  ex- 
cellent, and  much  sought  after  by  mariners.  Topazes  are  found  in 
abundance  in  one  of  the  moimtains,  and  Frizier  assures  us  that  there  are 
mines  of  gold  and  silver  in  the  island.  From  the  mountains  descend 
•streams  of  excellent  water,  which  render  the  land  very  fruitful. 

Sixteen  miles  south-east  of  the  island  just  described  is  that  of  St. 
Vincent's,  separated  from  it  by  a  clear  and  navigable  channel.     It  is 
about  thirteen  miles  in  length  from  east  to  west,  and  eiglit  in  breadth, 
being  about  thirty  in  circumference.     The  land  is  generally  elevated, 
Hjxcept  towards  the  north-west,  where  it  is  low  and  sandy.     On  this 
side  of  the  island,  looking  towards  St.  Antonio,  is   a  fine  capacious 
%ay,  or  road,  called  Porto  Grande,  with  a  rock  in  its  centre  rising  from 
the  water  like  a  tower,     'j'his  bay,  which  is  about  five  miles  broad  at 
its  mouth,  stretches  far  inland,  where  it  is  surrounded  by  high  moun- 
tains on  every  side,  sheltering  it  from  all  winds,  and  rendering  it  one 
of  the  safest  harbours  in  all  the  Cape  Verd  Islands.     But  it  is  not  the 
most  easy  of  access,  in  consequence  of  the  impetuous  winds  which 
frequently  blow  ofl*  the  mountains  along  the  coast,  so  as  to  endanger 
ships  before  they  can  secure  a  berth  within  this  peaceful  haven.    There 
are  several  other  bays  on  the  soutli,  south-west,  and  west  sides  of  the 
island,  where  good  anchorage  may  be  obtained ;  and  these  are  gene- 
rally selected  by  the  Portuguese  for  landing  their  hides.     Good  fresh 
■water  may  be  procured  on  this  island  by  digging  a  little  depth  into  the 
soil  of  the  valley,  but  the  hills   are   totally  destitute  of  it.     Its  bays 
abound  with  excellent  fish,  and  refreshments  of  various  kinds  may  be 
procured  with  but  little  difficulty.     Here  also  vessels  may  be  supplied 
with  fuel  of  a  good  quality. 

Ten  miles  east-by-souih  of  St..  Vincent's  is  the  island  of  St.  Lucia, 


July.]  ST.  LUCIA— ST.  NICHOLAS.  '        259 

not  more  than  eight  miles  in  length  from  north-west  to  south-east,  and 
about  three  in  width.  On  the  east  side  is  a  harbour,  defended  by  two 
small  islands,  which  affords  good  shelter  and  anchorage,  and  on  the 
south-west  side  are  the  ruins  of  a  village  and  a  well  of  fresh  water. 
The  land  is  considerably  elevated,  and  quite  barren.  There  are  some 
rocky  islets  lying  off  its  north-west  end,  but  no  dangers  that  extend 
more  than  one  mile  from  the  shore. 

Seventeen  miles  east-by-south  from  St.  Lucia  is  the  island  of  St. 
Nicholas,  which  is  the  most  pleasant  of  the  whole  group.  It  is  of 
irregular  shape,  with  several  concave  sides  and  promontories  projecting 
to  almost  every  point  of  the  compass.  Its  extreme  length  from  east  to 
west  is  about  twenty-seven  miles,  and  its  mean  breadtli  for  two-thirds 
of  that  distance,  counting  from  its  eastern  point,  does  not  exceed  five 
miles  ;  but  here  its  southern  side  suddenly  projects  to  the  south,  making 
the  distance  from  its  extreme  north  to  its  extreme  south  point  not  less 
than  fifteen  miles. 

This  island,  with  its  three  neighbours  just  described,  together  with 
two  islets  called  Branco  and  Raza,  constitute  a  cluster  by  them- 
selves in  the  north-w^est,  while  the  others  in  the  east,  south-east,  and 
south,  form  the  segment  of  a  circle,  of  which  St.  Nicholas  is  the  centre. 
Branco  and  Raza  are  small  barren  islets,  destitute  of  water  and 
•  inhabhants.  They  are  situated  between  St.  Lucia  and  St.  Nicholas, 
and  there  is  no  danger  in  sailing  around  or  between  them,  half  a  mile 
from  the  shore. 

The  island  of  St.  Nicholas,  from  its  peculiar  shape,  affords  good 
and  safe  anchorage  in  several  places.  On  the  south-west  concave  side 
of  its  western  projection  is  Tarrafal  Bay,  and  on  the  south-east  con- 
cave side  of  the  same  is  St.  George's  Bay.  On  the  southern  side  of 
its  eastern  extension  is  Fresh-water  Bay.  There  is  also  another  bay 
on  its  north-western  extremity  called  North-west  Bay.  The  best  and 
safest  anchorage,  however,  is  on  the  south-west  and  south-east  sides 
of  the  island,  in  from  ten  to  five  fathoms  of  water,  sand  and  coral  bot- 
tom. Here  refreshments  may  be  had  in  abundance,  and  generally  at  a 
moderate  price,  but  not  on  as  favourable  terms  as  they  can  be  obtained 
at  St.  Antonio.  It  is  difficult  to  procure  water  near  the  shore,  but  if  a 
ship  is  in  distress,  it  can  be  brought  to  the  beach  by  the  inhabitants  ou 
jackasses. 

We  touched  at  the  south-east  side  of  this  island,  where  I  landed,  and 
after  communicating  with  the  proper  authorities,  I  visited  the  interior 
and  made  some  cursor)'  observations  on  the  physical  and  moral  con- 
dition of  the  country  ;  the  result  of  which  was,  that  this  island,  were  it 
in  the  possession  of  more  industrious  people,  better  governed,  and  prop- 
erly cultivated  by  cheerful,  active,  and  healthy  freemen^  instead  of 
wretched,  desponding,  oppressed  slates.,  would  become  highly  pro- 
ductive of  such  staple  articles  as  are  adapted  to  its  soil  and  climate, 
and  a  lucrative  commerce  would  soon  be  the  consequence.  But  as  it 
is  at  present,  and  as  it  is  long  likely  to  be,  the  objects  of  industry  are 
limited  by  the  absolute  wants  of  the  islanders,  producing  just  sufficient 
for  their  own  consumption,  and  no  more. 

The  poor  slaves  are  pining  for  freedom,  and  seize  every  opportimity 

K3 


260  ST.  XICIIOLAS.     k  [1828. 

of  escaping  on  board  the  shipping  wliich  nre  contiiiudlly  stepping  at 
the  ishuid.  To  guard  against  this  loss  ol'  propcrti/^  the  Klrictcat  pre- 
t-autions  are  adopted  by  the  planters,  who  do  not  allow  the  inhabitants 
the  use  ol'  boats  ot"  any  description,  whi^li  arrangement  gives  to  the 
island  the  appcaranec  ol"  a  deserted  spot  in  the  ocean. 

As  there  is  scarcely  any  thing  exported  from  this  island  excepting 
goat-skins  and  archilla-weed,  its  sources  of  revenue  are,  ot*  course, 
extremely  limited.  "NVhat  little  money  does  enter  is  received  either  from 
ship-masters  lor  refreshments,  or  from  Portugal  in  payment  for  the 
archilla-weed,  or  to  defray  the  current  expenses  of  the  establishment. 
The  latter  item,  however,  cannot  amount  to  a  very  considerable  sum, 
if  all  are  paid  in  proportion  to  the  governor's  salary,  which  he  as.sured 
me  was  only  four  hundred  dollars  a  year. 

In  this  island  nature  has  not  been  niggardly  of  her  favours.  With 
proper  cultivation  its  soil  will  produce,  in  great  abundance,  cotton, 
indigo,  sugar,  coflce,  tamarinds,  cocoanuts,  bananas,  plantains,  cassavi, 
maize,  pine-apples,  figs,  lemons,  oranges,  papaw,  custard-apples,  grmva, 
gTapes,  dates,  &c.  The  sugar-cane  is  cqtial  to  that  of  the  VVest  Indies, 
and  I  have  tasted  and  examined  the  sugar  which  they  manufacture  for 
their  own  use,  and  found  it  excellent.  The  indigo  plant  thrives  per- 
fectly well,  and  makes  die  of  the  first-rate  quality,  wdlh  which  they  die 
their  cotton,  and  weave  it  into  shawls  for  the  women.  I  have  drunk 
their  coffee,  sweetened  with  their  own  sugar,  and  found  it  to  be  equal 
to  that  of  St.  Domingo.  They  barely  raise  enough  for  home  consump- 
tion ;  but  with  common  skill  and  industry,  the  now  un(.'ullivatcd  valleys 
might  be  covered  with  cotton  shrul)s  and  cofice-trces. 

I  saw  many  large  tamarind-trees  growing  out  of  the  fissures  and 
crevices  of  almost  naked  rocks  ;  and  frequently  beheld  the  cocoanur, 
banana,  plantain,  and  papaw-tree,  growing  on  the  edge  of  springs 
and  in  almost  barren  ground,  where  there  was  not  three  inches  of  soil. 
Nourished  principally  by  water,  they  only  want  a  foothold  to  support 
them,  and  they  are  certain  to  flourish.  I^Iost  of  these  springs  that  I 
passed  were  surrounded  by  fe;n,ilGs,  nearly  as  naked  as  was  the  fair 
Musidora  wlien  seen  by  her  Damon,  as  "  to  the  ilood  she  rush'd." 

There  is  Ihtle  or  nothing  like  cultivation  seen  anywhere,  excepting 
in  the  glens  or  ravines  which  are  watered  by  rills  from  the  mountains. 
In  the  upper  and  wider  parts  of  the  valleys  I  met  with  plantations  of 
Indian  corn,  cassavi,  sugar-cane,  and  pine-apples.  Cotton  and  indigo 
were  also  planted  in  some  spots,  but  being  neglected,  a  few  plants 
cnly  were  to  be  seen,  which  run  wild.  On  the  sides  of  brooks  and 
springs  grow  luxuriantly  the  fig,  lemon,  orange,  papaw,  custard-apple^ 
guava,  prickly-pear,  and  a  few  grape  vines,  besides  the  date,  which . 
grows  in  abundance  in  the  i5andy  places.  Here  cocoanut-trees  bear 
ripe  fruit  at  the  elevation  of  three  hundred  feet  above  the  surface  of 
the  sea.  On  some  spots  of  the  elevated  grassy  hills,  roots  and  vege- 
tables are  cultivated  with  great  success.  I  was  also  informed  that 
wheat  succeeded  very  well  when  sown  in  the  dry  plains  in  the  rainy 
season,  as  does  rice  in  the  lowest  and  wettest  grounds.  But  as  these 
islands  are  supplied  w  ith  corn  from  America  in  return  for  salt  and 
mules,  the  indolent  inhabitants  pay  but  little  attention  to  its  cultivation. 


■July.]  ■    ST.  NICHOTAS.  3@l 

During  m;,*  intciior  excursion  I  strolled  ijito  the  ver)'  heart  of  the 
country,  where  I  saw  the  wretched  negroes  watching  the  plantations 
of  their  unfeeling  oppressors,  and  tending  a  few  cows  and  sheep. 
They  received  me  with  u  civility  bordering  on  servility,  and  in  return 
I  bought  some  fruit  and  vegetables  of  them,  with  part  of  their  poultry 
and  all  the  eggs  they  had  to  dispose  of.  Then- huts  arc  of  very  simple 
construction,  and  still  more  simply  furnished.  The  females  of  the 
household  have  a  recess  for  their  use,  enclosed  with  the  branches  of 
the  date-tree.  Their  bedsteads  are  con.structed  by  driving  four  up- 
right stakes  imo  the  clay  lloor,  to  which  are  attached  transverse  sticks 
for  the  bottom,  the  whole  covered  with  a  mat  or  blanket.  A  large 
wooden  box  also  serves  the  double  purpose  of  a  table  and  couch. 
The  rest  of  the  furniture  consists  of  a  wooden  mortar  to  pound  their 
Indian  corn,  a  clay  pot  to  boil  it  in,  some  gourds  for  holding  milk  and 
water,  and  a  few  wooden  spoons.  This  is  a  complete  inventory  of 
their  domestic  utensils. 

Every  domicil,  however,  can  boast  of  at  least  two  musical  instru- 
ments, a  fact  that  would  be  quoted  as  a  stroivg  symptom  of  luxury  in 
the  family  of  a  New-England  farmer.  Music,  it  seems,  can  alleviate 
even  the  pan<js  caused  by  the  galling  fetters  of  slavery.  The  discordant 
clankino-  of  tlieir  chains  can  be  occasionally  lost  in  the  animating-  roll 
of  the  "  doubling  drum,"  accompanied  by  the  lively  tones  of  the  guitar. 
Each  of  these  instruments  i.s  found  in  the  hut  of  every  slave.  The 
former  is  made  of  a  hollow  log,  covered  with  a  kind  of  parchment  of 
their  own  make  ;  and  tlie  latter  is  a  rude  sort  of  lyre  with  only  three 
strings.  But  rude  as  these  instruments  are.  they  possess  the  magical 
power  of  charming  the  sable  hearer  into  a  total  forgetfulness  of  his 
degradation  and  his  sorrows.  In  dancing  to  their  animating  sounds 
he  forgets  that  he  is  a  slave,  and  is  happier  far  than  the  heartless  op- 
pressor who  lives  in  idleness  by  the  sweat  of  the  negro's  face.  It  is 
thus  that  "  Heaven  tempers  the  wind  to  the  shorn  lamb,"  and  pom's 
consolation  into  the  bitterest  cup  of  human  misery. 

From  the  httle  opportunity  I  had  of  making  observations  and  inqui- 
ries, 1  should  infer  that  the  island  of  St.  Nicholas  is  not  over-abundantly 
supplied  with  birds,  either  as  to  species  or  number.s.  We  saw  several 
large  birds  of  prey,  one  of  which  was  a  fishing  eagle  common  to  all 
these  islands  ;  another  w^as  ash-coloured,  of  a  large  size,  seen  only  on 
shore ;  and  a  third,  whicli  I  shot  on  shore,  nearly  resembled  the  spar- 
row-hawk. The  small  birds,  of  which  I  shot  specimens,  were  the 
following  :  a  fine  kingfisher,  a  common  quail,  a  sparrov/  nearly  resem- 
bling the  American,  a  bird  similar  to  the  English  lark,  and  a  small 
'  singing-bird  of  unknown  species.  I  also  saw  guinea-fowl,  but  they 
were  too  wild  to  be  shot. 

The  waters  in  the  bays  on  every  side  of  this  island  abound  M'ith 
fish,  which  may  be  cauglit  with  seines  in  almost  "  miraculous  draughts." 
I  saw  nine  species  of  fish  that  are  common  at  this  island,  viz.  black- 
fish,  gray  mullet,  skipjacks,  bonatoes,  porgy,  the  young  white  shark, 
a  kind  of  ro<-k  cod,  and  a  fish  that  is  not  common  in  this  country,  of  a 
large  size,  between  the  drum-fish  and  the  streaked  bass.  Alth.ough  the 
inhabitants  are  the  most  rigid  Catholics,  they  seem  to  make  fish  a  very 


262  CAPE  VERDS— SAL.  [1828.. 

sinall  portion  of  their  general  food.  AVe  caught  an  immense  number ; 
and,  according  to  custom,  received  a  broad  hint  to  send  the  governor  a 
mess,  which  we  did,  with  many  apologies  for  our  ignorance  of  the 
etiquette  proper  on  sucli  occasions. 

July  23r/. — Wo  left  St.  Nicholas  on  AVcdnesday  evening,  tlie  23d 
of  July,  at  seven,  P.  M.,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  norih-by-east,  and  on 
the  following  morning,  at  four  o'clock,  were  close  in  wiih  the  island 
of  Sal,  and  anchored  in  Mordeira  Bay,  in  six  fathoms  water,  sandy  bot- 
tom. This  in  my  opinion  is  the  best  harbour  among  the  whole  group 
of  the  Cape  Verd  Islands.  The  anchorage  is  in  lat.  16^'  42'  north, 
long.  22°  54'  west. 

The  island  of  Sal,  which  lies  about  twenty  leagues  eastward  of  St. 
IVicholas,  derives  its  name  from  its  great  number  of  salt-ponds,  and 
the  vast  quantity  of  salt  that  is  manufactured  from  their  waters,  which 
are  continually  replenished  from  the  rising  of  the  sea.  'I'liis  water, 
when  properly  exposed  to  the  sun,  crystallizes  into  a  beautiful  salt, 
Mhich  is  the  staple  commodity  of  the  island.  If  the  manufacture  were 
properly  attended  to,  this  single  island  would  be  sufficient  to  supply 
all  the  United  States  for  a  century  to  come. 

This  island  is  a  little  more  than  forty  nules  in  circumference,  and 
lies  about  three  hundred  miles  from  the  coast  of  Africa.  It  is  of  an 
oblong  shape,  extending  north  and  south,  something  less  than  twenty 
miles  in  length,  and  perhaps  eight  or  ten  in  breadth.  It  forms  the 
north-east  point  of  the  semicircular  range  before  mentioned,  and  be- 
longs to  the  governor  of  Bonavista,  a  wealthy  Portuguese,  named  Don 
Martinez,  who  has  been  at  vast  expense  in  cutting  a  road  through  the 
mountain,  from  the  salt-pans  on  the  east  side  of  the  island,  to  the  bay 
or  harbour  of  Mordeira  on  the  west  side,  where  ships  may  lie  in  per- 
fect safety,  and  take  on  board  their  cargoes  of  salt,  which  is  of  the 
best  quality  produced  among  these  islands. 

The  island  is  high  and  bold ;  rising  in  two  peaks,  which  in  clear 
■weather  may  be  seen  from  a  ship's  deck  at  the  distance  of  fifteen 
leagues.  The  easternmost  peak  is  the  highest,  and  the  land  between 
them  being  low,  they  appear  like  two  separate  islands  when  seen  at  a 
distance  from  the  north  or  south.  On  approaching  it  nearer  we  find 
that  the  irregularity  of  its  shores  produces  many  promontories,  points, 
bays,  &c.,  among  which  are  the  following :  North  Point,  which  ex- 
presses its  appropriate  location ;  Martinez  Point,  a  few  miles  south- 
east of  the  former;  fifteen  miles  farther  south  is  East  Point;  the 
south-eastern  extremity  of  the  island  is  called  Wreck  Point,  near  which 
the  Erne  was  wrecked  in  1819;  a  few  miles  farther  west  is  South 
Point ;  farther  north,  on  the  western  side,  is  Turtle  Point ;  then  comes 
Mordeira  Bay,  where  we  lay  at  anchor  ;  north  of  this  is  a  promontory 
called  the  Lion's  Head,  off  which  lies  Bird  Island ;  still  farther  north 
is  Palmira  Point  and  Bay ;  on  the  north-west  is  Manuel  Point ;  and 
Horn  Point  projects  about  half-way  between  the  latter  and  North  Point, 
**  the  place  of  beginning." 

July  2ith, — At  6  o'clock  in  the  morning,  I  started  on  an  excursion 
over  the  mountain,  in  search  of  the  agent  to  whom  all  apphcations 
must  be  made  for  purchasing  salt.     As  respects  business,  however,  my 


July.]  CAPE  VERBS— SAL— BONA  VISTA.  2^ 

journey  was  fruitless,  as  the  man  had  gone  to  Bonavista,  an  island 
farther  south.  But  I  did  not  regret  the  ride,  as  it  afforded  me  an  op- 
portunity of  becoming  better  acquainted  with  the  interior  of  this  barren 
country,  and  the  following  is  the  result  of  my  observations  : — 

Towards  the  seashore  the  island  presents  the  most  forbidding; 
aspect,  every  feature  bearing  the  impress  of  hopeless  sterility.  Here 
some  mighty  convulsion  of  nature  has  piled  matter  upon  matter,  in 
what  maybe  termed  a  "  regular  confusion."  The  two  prominent  forms 
are  generally  those  of  platforms,  or  table-lands,  which  are  perpendicu- 
lar as  a  wall  on  one  side,  and  level  with  the  neighbouring  land  on  the 
other ;  with  series  of  perfectly  conical  hillocks,  diminishing  in  size  by 
regular  gradations.  Over  the  interior  of  the  island  are  scattered  vast 
irregular  masses,  forming  shapeless  mountains,  and  long  serrated  or  in- 
dented outlines.  The  whole  of  the  elevated  grounds  which  I  passed  over 
are  covered  with  loose  blocks  of  stone,  basalt,  lava,  and  other  volcanic 
productions  ;  and  the  beds  of  the  numerous  torrents,  which  were  now 
entirely  dry,  exhibited  a  covering  of  black  basaltic  sand.  I  have  there- 
fore no  doubt  that  this  island,  like  all  the  rest  on  the  western  coast  of 
Africa,  is  of  a  submarine  volcanic  origin,  and  mostly  of  the  basaltic 
formation.  The  only  animals  I  saw  were  a  few  goats,  asses,  and 
ponies. 

The  only  vegetation  which  this  island  produces  consists  of  about  a 
dozen  kinds  of  shrubs,  and  a  few  melancholy  date-trees,  useful  only 
for  their  long  branches,  as  their  fruit  never  comes  to  perfection.  The 
mimosa,  or  sensitive-plant  is  also  found  here,  scattered  thinly  about  in 
certain  places,  apparently  "  out  of  its  element."  The  few  vegetables 
that  I  met  with  were  completely  burnt  up  for  die  want  of  moisture ;. 
as,  with  the  exception  of  a  spring  in  the  centre  of  the  island,  not  a 
drop  of  fresh  water  cheered  my  eye  or  cooled  my  lips,  during  this 
steril  and  fruitless  excursion.  1  was  glad  to  return  to  the  Antarctic, 
and  get  under  way  for  Bonavista,  which  we  did  at  1,  P.M.,  with  a 
fine  breeze  from  north-east,  and  fair  weather. 

At  half-past  4,  P.  M.,  we  came  to  anchor  in  English  Road,  or  Bona- 
vista harbour,  in  three  fathoms  of  water,  mud  and  clay  bottom.  This 
anchorage  is  in  latitude  16^  10'  north,  long.  22°  53'  west. 


254  CAPE  VERDS— BONAVISTA.  [1828. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Island  of  Bonaviita — Town  and  Hurbour — Interview  with  the  Governor — The 
Art  of  Begging  illustrated — View  of  the  Island — Natural  Productions — Sail- 
ing Directions — The  Leton  Rocks — Island  of  Mayo — St.  Jago,  or  Santiago — 
Port  Praya — Breakfast  with  the  Captain-general — A  walk  with  the  Ladies — A 
Peep  at  the  Country — View  the  Fortifications — Military  Establishment — A 
Dinner-party — Bay  and  Anchorage — Volcano  of  Fogo,  or  Fuego — Island  of 
Brava — Imaginary  Dangers. 

In  approaching  the  island  of  Bonavista,  or  Buena-vista,  it  presents 
a  beautiful  appearance  to  the  eye  of  the  tasteful  and  scientific  voyagcur  ; 
and  to  this  circumstance  it  owes  its  imposing  appellation.  It  lies  about 
nine  leagues  south  of  Sal,  and  a  little  more  than  seventy  west  from  the 
coast  of  Africa.  Its  form  is  an  irregular  pentangular  figure,  with  a 
diameter  of  about  twenty  miles.  The  surface  of  this  island  is  low  to- 
wards the  sea,  but  the  ijiterior  is  considerably  elevated  and  hilly,  par- 
ticularly towards  its  north-east  extremity,  where  there  is  a  lofty  emi- 
nence, which,  from  its  conical  and  truncated  shape,  appears  to  have 
once  been  a  volcano.  Towards  the  south-west  there  is  another  hill 
still  more  elevated,  to  the  westward  of  which  the  land  is  quite  high. 
The  island  is  known  at  a  distance  by  several  white  banks  on  its  north 
side,  where  the  shore  is  bold,  and  where  a  rapid  river  discharges  itself 
into  the  sea. 

Tlie  harbour  in  which  we  anchored  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  island, 
and  is  formed  by  a  small  island  which  shelters  the  northern  extremity 
of  the  English  Road  or  bay.  The  anchorage  is  between  this  small 
island  and  the  mainland  of  Bonavista,  a  little  south  of  the  town  or 
village.  In  going  in  to  tiie  anchorage  we  doubled  close  round  the 
south  point  of  Small  Island,  within  about  two  cables'  length  from  the 
shore,  leaving  a  single  rock  to  the  south  of  the  vessel,  at  the  distance 
of  about  two  hundred  fathoms.  There  is  only  eight  feet  of  water  on 
this  rock  at  low  tide:  asd  the  sea  breaks  on  it  in  rough  weather.  There 
is  a  flag-staff  on  Small  Island,  which  we  brought  to  bear  north-north- 
west, and  v.ere  then  within  the  simken  rock  before  mentioned.  Here 
we  had  the  choice  of  anchorage  in  from  seven  to  four  fathoms  of  water ; 
but  as  it  is  best  to  be  as  near  the  east  side  of  the  island  and  the  town 
as  possible,  we  anchored  in  three  fathoms,  as  before  stated.  Vessels 
should  never  attempt  to  pass  on  the  north  side  of  Small  Island,  as 
there  is  a  sand-spit  runs  from  it  to  the  main  island,  in  a  due  east 
direction. 

The  town,  which  has  a  sandy  foundation,  consists  of  two  rows  of 
hovels,  constructed  of  stone  and  mud.  These  are  thatched  with 
branches  of  the  date-tree  and  a  long  coarse  grass,  and  are  chiefly  in- 
habited bv  negroes,  who  have  little  about  them  tliat  indicates  comfort 
or  economy.     This  description,  however,  does  not  iiiclude  eight  or  ten 


July.]  BOXAVISTA.  265 

houses,  of  a  better  sort,  belonging  to  the  governor  and  hisjsubordinate 
officers.  Those  are  plastered  and  whitewashed,  and  present  a  decent 
cheerful  appearance.  There  is  also  an  edifice  of  a  barn-like  appear- 
ance, without  spire  or  ornament,  which  they  call  a  church.  The  only 
indications  of  domestic  trade  are  two  or  three  mean-looking  shops, 
containing  an  "  unassorted  assortment*'  of  miscellaneous  articles, 
among  which  I  observed  various  kinds  of  American  cotton  goods,  and 
English  earthenv.are,  together  with  hats,  shoes,  &c.  of  Portuguese 
iabric. 

It  was  5,  P.  M.,  when  I  went  on  shore,  and  u.  negro  sentinel  con- 
ducted me  to  the  governor's  residence.  I  foimd  his  excellency  at  din- 
ner with  a  family  circle,  consisting  of  his  wile,  two  daughters,  several 
fat  monks,  and  two  or  three  officers.  The  honour  of  my  visit  was 
totally  unexpected,  as  appeared  by  the  ladies  (brunettes  of  the  half- 
easte)  being  in  their  dishahiUcs^  and  making  a  precipitate  retreat  from 
my  presence.  Whether  each  fair  one's  "tunic"  was  of  "the  finest 
lawn,"  I  had  no  opportunity  of  asceilaining ;  but  I  did  ascertain  that 
iheir  lovely  limbs  were  unrestrained  by  any  thing  but  clicmisc  and  pet- 
ticoat ;  those  are  temptations,  however,  which  seamen  must  learn  to 
encounter  v-ith  cool  indiflerence,  or  they  would  be  in  hot  water  too 
often.  I  made  some  commonplace  apology  for  my  abrupt  intrusion, 
&s  the  ladies  retreated  in  evident  confusion ;  but  they  soon  returned, 
richly  attired,  and  performed  the  rites  of  hospitality  with  an  ease,  grace, 
and  dignity  of  deportment  that  quite  charmed  mc. 

Bis  excellency,  who  is  no  other  than  the  wealthy  Portuguese  alluded 
to  in  the  last  chapter,  Don  Martinez,  proprietor  of  the  island  of  8al 
and  a  considerable  part  of  Bonavista,  speaks  very  good  English,  and 
■was  very  solicitous  to  render  my  situation  agreeable.  On  learning  my 
business,  he  requested  that  I  would  aliov/  him  the  pleasure  of  procur- 
ing the  salt  for  m^,  at  the  same  time  taking  no  little  pains  to  convince 
me  that  he  was  influenced  by  no  interested  motives  in  thus  tendering 
liis  services.  To  these  asseverations  I  of  cotirso  made  the  requisite 
responses,  and  ordered  one  thousand  bushels  of  salt.  This  order  tlie 
governor  handed  over  to  the  captain  of  the  port,  who  wears  the  naval 
uniform  of  Portugal,  and  is  one  of  the  most  insinuating  and  persever- 
ing beggars  I  ever  met  with.  As  a  specimen  of  the  manner  in  which 
he  pursues  his  vocation  take  the  following  ;  for  I  understand  he  never 
varies  in  the  process : 

Knowing  the  weak  side  of  Jonathan,  he  commences  his  attack  by 
a  full  volley  of  encomiums  on  the  American  nation,  and  especially  on 
the  liberality  of  her  citizens,  and  most  particularly  on  the  gentlemanly 
deportment  and  noble  generosity  of  her  ship-masters.  Before  die  be- 
siei{ed  can  have  time  to  recover  from  the  shock  of  this  sudden  and  un- 
expected  assault,  the  archery  of  black  laughing  eyes  are  brought  to  the 
charge,  and  pour  a  shower  of  poisoned  darts  into  the  very  heart  of  the 
fortress.  In  plain  English,  his  wife  desired  him  to  ask  the  generous 
captain  if  he  conld  sell  her  daughters  some  butter,  as  they  were  ex- 
tremely fund  of  American  butler,  and  pr«  iVrred  it  to  lliat  of  every  other 
nation.  To  be  sure,  he  had  rebuked  his  briter  half  for  makinn  such  a 
proposition,  as  Anjcrican  officers  would  be  highly  olfcnded  ;;t  the  bare 


266  CAPE  VERDS.  [1828. 

idea  of  selling  any  thing  to  a  lady^  they  being  in  the  habit  of  making 
them  presents  or  compliments. 

If  the  citadel  docs  not  yet  surrender,  preparations  are  made  to  carry 
it  by  storm,  and  for  tliis  purpose  a  reinforcement  of  infantry  assail  it 
with  small-arms  on  several  sides  at  once.  Ilis  daughter  Louisa  is  very 
partial  to  American  cider;  Isabella  prefers  porter;  while  Maria, the 
youngest,  a  bewitching  little  gipsy  of  sixteen,  would  give  any  thing 
in  the  world  for  some  American  cheese  and  fruit ;  but  their  mother 
thought  that  no  other  part  of  the  world  produced  such  excellent  flour 
as  the  United  States.  If  the  garrison  still  hold  out,  such  flattering 
terms  of  accommodation  are  proposed  as  generally  throw  them  off 
their  guard  ;  like  the  following  : 

"  Will  you  have  the  goodness  to  walk  up  to  the  house  with  me, 
captain,  and  see  my  daughters  I  they  perform  divinely  on  the  guitar, 
and  will  be  proud  to  amuse  you  this  evening  by  playing  and  singing." 

This  ruse  de  guerre  generally  succeeds.  The  confiding  garrison 
are  drawn  into  an  ambush,  and  compelled  to  surrender  at  discretion. 
Alas !  that  beauty  should  bait  the  hooks  of  avarice  and  cupidity.  The 
holiest  sentiment  of  our  nature  is  thus  made  a  vassal  to  the  meanest. 

In  this  place  it  may  be  proper  to  remark,  that  all  the  gentlemen  here 
have  obtained  a  sufficient  knowledge  of  the  English  language  to  hold 
a  sprightly  conversation ;  and,  indeed,  there  is  scarcely  a  person  of 
any  respectability  in  the  whole  town  who  does  not  speak  enough  of  this 
language  for  the  purposes  of  bartering  and  begging. 

After  taking  my  leave  of  the  governor  and  his  family,  I  took  a  stroll 
through  the  town  or  village,  which  is  built  on  a  sandy  plain  at  the  east 
side  of  the  bay.  I  soon  learned  that  no  refreshments  could  be  had  at 
this  place,  nor  does  the  island  ever  furnish  any  except  they  are  first 
brought  from  the  other  islands  in  small  drogers,  for  which  they  charge 
a  high  price.  It  is  likewise  diflicult  to  obtain  fresh  water  here,  ex- 
cepting in  small  quantities,  and  that  of  a  brackish  flavour.  No  fuel 
suitable  for  nautical  use  can  be  had  here  at  any  price.  Goats'  fleshy 
milk,  turtle,  and  fish  are  the  principal  food  of  the  inhabitants,  but  they 
have  none  to  spare. 

The  productions  of  Bonavista  are  salt,  indigo,  and  cotton  :  the  first 
is  produced  in  great  abundance  on  the  north-west  and  eastern  parts  of 
the  island  in  natural  pans  or  ponds,  w'here  it  crystallizes' in  the  sun. 
These  receptacles  for  sea-water  are  in  the  low  valleys  near  the  sea- 
shore, and  in  the  whole  process  nature  receives  very  little  aid  from  the 
hand  of  art.  This  salt,  however,  is  not  equal  in  quantity  or  quality  to 
that  which  is  produced  on  the  island  of  Sal,  a  cargo  of  which  will  cost 
about  six  cents  a  bushel  on  board,  while  here  at  Bonavista  it  costs  about 
six  and  a  quarter  cents  ;  and  in  taking  a  small  quantity,  it  comes  some- 
what higher.  The  inhabitants  convey  it  to  the  vessel  by  means  of  asses, 
which  travel  in  troops  of  fifteen  each,  every  troop  being  under  the  charge 
of  a  negro. 

The  indigo,  which  grows  without  being  cultivated,  is  gathered  by 
the  inhabitants ;  they  have  not  the  art  of  separating  the  die,  and  of 
making  what  is  called  the  blue-stone  in  the  southern  section  of  the 
United  States,  but  they  satisfy  themselves  with  bruising  the  green 


July.]  BONAVISTA.  267 

leaves  in  a  wooden  mortar.  They  next  make  it  into  a  kind  of  paste, 
of  which  they  form  round  balls  that  are  dried  for  use.  'I'his  is  not  the 
process  of  preparing  this  beautiful  die-stuft'  in  our  country.  Here,  the 
leaves  of  the  plant  are  laid  in  vats  full  of  water,  and  left  to  ferment. 
The  liquor  is  then  drawn  off  into  another  vat,  and  after  having  been 
well  stirred  up,  it  is  drawn  off,  and  what  remains  at  the  bottom  is  ex- 
posed to  the  air  until  it  is  thoroughly  dry,  when  it  is  fit  for  use. 

Though  the  cotton-tree  grows  naturally  on  the  island  of  Bonavista, 
yet  its  culture  is  greatly  neglected  by  the  natives  :  they  never  think  of 
collecting  it  till  some  vessel  arrives  to  purchase  it.  But  were  it  prop- 
erly attended  to,  1  believe  they  could  every  year  furnish  a  cargo  lor  a 
large  ship  ;  and  I  have  been  told  that  in  some  years,  when  it  has  failed 
in  the  other  islands,  it  has  been  produced  in  great  abundance  in> 
Bonavista. 

But  this  island  will  never  be  distinguished  for  agricultural  fecundity. 
The  soil  for  the  most  part  is  sandy,  barren,  and  uncultivated ;  and 
though  enjoying  the  genial  influence  of  a  tropical  sun,  it  must  feel  the 
more  effective  influence  of  industry  and  enterprise  before  it  becomes 
productive.  The  sweat  which  falls  from  the  brow  of  slavery  scalds 
and  blights  the  verdure  which  the  dew-drops  of  heaven  have  brought 
into  existence. 

The  surface  of  the  island  is  very  uneven,  comprising  alternate  hills 
and  valleys ;  and  at  the  sea-board  it  has  low  points  running  into  the 
sea.  The  southern  and  eastern  part  of  this  island,  in  particular,  is 
very  low,  and  the  shore  is  lined  with  reefs  of  coral,  some  of  which  lie 
three  miles  from  the  island  to  the  eastward ;  and  oftentimes  in  the 
night,  when  the  weather  is  hazy,  a  ship  might  be  on  the  reef  before 
the  land  can  be  seen,  on  account  of  its  being  so  very  low  on  that  side 
of  the  island.  In  1831  my  worthy  friend  Captain  Weatherby,  of  Liv- 
erpool, lost  a  fme  ship  on  the  reef  which  lies  ofl'  the  east  end  of  this 
island.  He  had  his  two  daughters  with  him  at  the  time.  Her 
cargo  was  worth  two  hundred  thousand  dollars,  destined  for  the  Isle 
of  France ;  but  it  was  all  lost. 

Ships  bound  to  the  south,  and  passing  to  the  eastward  of  Bonavista 
in  the  night,  should  never  approach  the  island  nearer  than  twenty 
miles,  as  the  currents,  which  set  about  west,  frequently  run,  after  a 
fresh  trade,  at  the  rate  of  two  miles  an  hour.  In  the  month  of  July  I 
have  known  the  current  to  set  in  a  west  direction,  between  the  Isle  of 
Alayo  and  Bonavista,  at  the  rate  of  two  and  a  half  miles  an  hour.  I 
would  therefore  advise  ship-masters,  in  all  cases,  to  pass  to  the  west- 
ward of  the  islands  of  Sal,  Bonavista,  Mayo,  and  the  Leion  Rocks,  of 
which  I  shall  speak  presently. 

A  dangerous  reef  likewise  lies  off  the  western  extremity  of  Bona- 
vista, about  three  miles  from  the  shore,  covered  by  four  feet  of  water. 
The  sea  breaks  very  heavy  on  the  shoal  part  of  this  reef  in  rugged 
■weather.  There  is  a  good  passage,  however,  between  the  reef  and 
the  island,  with  six  fathoms  of  water,  over  a  white  coral  bottom,  which 
has  a  frightful  appearance  to  such  navigators  as  are  not  acquainted 
with  coral  reefs.  Large  ships,  however,  should  always  pass  outside 
of  the  reef,  giving  the  breakers  a  berth  of  two  hundred  fathoms,  whea 


268  C^APE  VERDS.  [1828. 

they  will  have  ten  fatiioms  of  water,  and  a  clear  passage  to  the  anchor- 
age of  Bonavif^la,  giving  tlie  reef  that  lies  off  tlic  beach  at  Old  Town  a 
berth  of  one  cable's  length. 

Tfie  Cape  Verd  Islands,  w  ith  respect  to  climate  and  vegetation,  are 
more  like  lands  of  the  temperate  than  those  of  the  tropical  zones,  al- 
though they  are  situated  in  the  latter  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  north- 
ern equinoctial  belt.  In  the  African  countr\^  of  iScnegambia,  which  lies 
opposite,  in  the  same  latitude,  the  rains  and  the  hottest  seasons  arrive 
together,  and  continue  during  the  months  of  May,  June,  and  July  :  but 
limong  tiiese  ialands  the  rains  do  not  set  in  until  the  middle  of  August, 
and  continue,  with  fev,'  intermissions,  until  January. 

When  we  arrived  at  Bonavi.sta  the  dry  season  had  commenced  about 
six  months ;  and,  as  I  have  aheady  slated,  the  hot  winds  from  Africa, 
in  crossing  the  water  to  the  islands,  become  so  highly  charged  with 
humidity  that  the  least  diminution  of  temperature  causes  an  abundance 
of  vapours  to  be  deposited  on  the  islands.  It  is  this  moisture  that 
reduces  the  mean  temperature  at  Bonavista  so  much  below  tliat  on  the 
African  coast.  The  thermometer  on  board  the  Antarctic,  at  twelve, 
M.,  stood  at  74^,  and  in  Bonavista  town  it  stood  at  89^,  on  account 
of  the  wind  blowing  fresh  from  east-north-east. 

At  Goree,  a  small  island  of  Africa,  near  Cape  Verd,  subject  to 
the  French,  the  thermometer  ranges  between  88°  and  iOO^  from  May 
till  November;  while  at  Senegal  it  is  at  113°,  and  sometimes  131°. 
During  the  whole  year,  the  sun  at  midday  is  insupportable. 

Ship-masters  should  be  careful  while  lying  at  Bonavista  to  prevent 
their  crews  going  on  shore  or  sleeping  on  deck  in  the  months  of  May, 
June,  and  July,  as  they  are  very  liable  to  take  the  fever  that  is  common 
amon<T  these  islands  at  this  season  of  the  3'ear.  Ofllcers  also  should 
make  it  a  point  of  duty  to  see  that  their  men  avoid  getting  wet,  as  far 
as  practicable,  either  from  fresh  or  salt  water,  as  such  exposures  are 
very  apt  to  bring  on  the  fever  and  ague. 

July  2Qth. — Having  taken  in  our  salt  and  arranged  my  business  with 
Don  Zilartinez,  v.ithout  forgetting  my  friend  the  captain,  together  with 
his  pretty  wife  and  daughters,  the  word  was  given,  "  All  hands,  un- 
moor !"  This  was  on  Saturday,  the  26th,  at  nine  o'clock,  A.  M.,  when 
we  got  under  way  with  a  fine  breeze  from  north-north-east,  and  pleas- 
ant weather.  We  passed  between  the  reef  before  mentioned  and  the 
west  point  of  the  island,  with  not  less  than  six  fathoms  of  water,  and 
steered  for  tlie  east  point  of  St.  Jago  Island,  with  ilie  intention  of  sight- 
ing the  Leton  Rocks. 

./^//y  27th. — At  half-past  twelve,  P.  M.,  on  Sundaj',  we  passed  within 
a  cable's  length  of  that  dangerous  reef,  on  the  western  .side  of  it,  in  ten 
fathoms  of  water,  coral  bottom.  This  reef  is  of  an  oblong  shape,  ex- 
tending from  north-north-east  to  south-south-west,  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  fathoms  in  lengili  and  nearly  half  that  in  breadth.  On  the 
.shoalest  part  of  this  reef  the  water  is  not  more  than  five  or  six  feet  in 
depth,  and  it  is  very  dangerous  to  approach  in  the  night  or  in  a  thick 
atmosphere,  as  the  sea  does  not  break  upon  it  except  in  rough  weather. 
When  we  passed  it,  there  was  scarcely  a  roller  on  the  shoalest  part, 
ahhouoh  we  had  a  fine  breeze  from  north-north-east.     But  the  coral 


I 


July.]  LKTON  ROCKS— ST.  JAGO.  269 

bottom  on  tlie  reef  can  be  seen  hall'  a  mile  from  the  mast-head  in  clear 
weather,  if  it  be  not  in  the  direction  of  the  sun. 

The  true  situation  of  this  reef  is  m  latitude  15°  49'  N.,  long.  ^3°  15' 
W. ;  variation  per  azimuth  17°  35'  westerly  ;  and  the  current,  live  miles 
to  the  south  of  the  rocks,  was  setting  west-by-south,  at  tlie  rate  of 
eighteen  miles  in  twenty-four  hours.  On  passing  these  rocks  at  an- 
other time,  I  have  found  the  current  setting  equally  as  strong  in  an 
east-north-east  direction.  It  is  therefore  not  surprising  that  the  most 
skilful  and  cautious  navigators  are  sometimes  deceived  by  these  rapid 
and  incalculable  changes  of  the  current ;  or  that  Captain  Swanton,  late 
commander  of  the  honourable  East  India  Company's  ship  Lady  Bur- 
gess, sliould  run  his  vessel  upon  these  rocks,  which  happened  on  the 
19th  of  April,  in  the  year  1806,  at  two  o'clock,  A.  M.,  at  which  season 
of  the  year  the  currents  are  setting  here,  from  eighteen  to  twenty-four 
miles,  east-north-east. 

It  has  been  stated  that  there  is  another  reej]  lying  to  the  nortJiward 
of  the  Leton  Rocks  about  five  miles ;  but  as  I  passed  over  the  very 
spot  in  which  it  is  said  to  be  without  seeing  any  appearance  of  shoal 
water,  I  am  positive  that  there  is  no  other  danger  near  Bonavista  and 
»St.  Jago  than  the  reef  of  the  Leton  Rocks,  which  is  sufficient  of  itself 
to  keep  every  cautious  mariner  on  his  guard  in  passing  it,  as  the  force 
and  direction  of  the  currents  are  not  to  be  depended  on  among  these 
islands. 

From  Leton  Rocks  we  steered  sondi-by-west  half-v/est,  until  near 
the  island  of  Mayo,  when  v.-e  ran  for  the  east  end  of  St.  Jago.  Siiips 
should  not  approach  the  north  end  of  the  island  of  •Mayo  in  the  night, 
imless  they  are  certain  of  their  situation,  as  there  is  a  very  dangerous 
t.-oral  reef  lyino-  north-north-east  from  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
island,  about  three  miles  otf-shore.  In  passing  this  reef  in  1829, 1  saw 
the  wreck  of  an  English  brig  upon  it.  There  is  no  other  danger  around 
this  island  more  than  three  hundred  fathoms  off-shore.  The  land  is 
pretty  high  at  the  centre,  uneven,  and  fidl  of  hills.  It  has  good  an- 
chorage on  the  south-west  side,  in  what  is  called  English  Roads,  in 
irom  five  to  ten  fathoms  of  water,  in  front  of  tlie  tov/n. 

The  shore  to  the  eastward  of  the  town  of  Mayo  is  steep,  bluff,  and 
rocky ;  but  to  the  westward  a  low  white  sandy  beach  extends  to  what 
is  called  Salt-pan's  Point,  from  v.'liich  a  spit  of  sand  and  coral  stretches 
to  the  westward  about  two  hundred  fathoms.  At  a  small  distance  fa- 
ther off-shore  there  is  a  depth  of  fifty  fathoms.  Sliips  should  not  an- 
chor in  more  than  ten  fathoms  in  front  of  the  town  of  Mayo,  as  the 
bank  runs  off  very  steep  from  fifteen  fathoms.  The  north  point  of  this 
island  lies  in  latitude  15°  21'  N.,  long.  23°  9'  W. 

At  eight,  P.  M.,  we  came  to  an  anchor  in  Port  Pray  a,  island  of  St. 
Jago,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  sandv  bottom.  This  island  lies  about 
seventy  miles  south-west-by-south  I'rom  Bonavista,  and  ninety  south- 
south-east  from  St.  Nicholas.  Its  shape  or  figure  on  the  charts  re- 
sembles that  of  an  oyster,  lying  nearly  in  the  position  of  north-west 
and  south-east,  forty  miles  in  length  and  about  twenty  in  breadth.  Port 
Praya,  on  its  south-eastern  end,  is  in  latitude  14^  55'  N.,  long.  23°  31' 
W.     Variation  per  aziinuih  16°  48'  westerly. 


270  CAPE  VERDS.  [1828. 

St.  Jago,  or  SanllajTo,  h  the  largest,  the  best  cultivated,  and  the  most 
fertile  of  tlie  Cape  Vcrd  Islands.  It  abounds,  however,  with  high, 
barren  mountains,  whicli  may  be  seen  in  clear  weather  at  a  consider- 
able distance.  Tlie  soutli-east  extremity  of  tliis  island  is  a  very  long 
low  point,  and  presents  that  appearance  in  approaching  it  from  the 
north  or  south.  Three  or  four  miles  to  the  westward  of  this  point  is  a 
bay,  with  a  brown  sandy  bcacli ;  and  at  lIjc  liead  of  this  bay  are  two 
or  three  houses  and  a  grove  of  date-trees.  This  bay  must  not  be  mis- 
taken for  that  of  Port  Praya,  as  its  eastern  point  is  surrounded  by  rocks 
extending  two  hundred  fathoms  into  the  sea,  which  does  not  always 
break  upon  it. 

We  passed  this  bay,  and  kept  along  the  coast  to  the  westward 
towards  Port  Praya,  within  one  mile  of  the  shore,  in  eight  or  ten  fath- 
oms of  water,  until  the  battery  and  flag-stafl'  were  plainly  distinguished 
on  the  west  point  of  the  harbour,  off  which  the  sea  always  breaks  at 
some  distance.  We  then  rounded  the  eastern  point,  within  two  cables' 
length,  in  from  six  to  eight  fathoms  of  water, — in  doing  which,  the 
custom-house  opened  to  view  on  the  beach,  and  a  grove  of  date-trees 
in  the  valley.  Immediately  afterward  the  town  and  fort  presented 
themselves  on  the  hill  at  the  head  of  the  bay.  The  eastern  shore, 
which  should  be  kept  close  on  board,  is  high  bluff  land,  which  has  the 
appearance  of  being  parched  and  barren.  We  stood  in  for  the  town, 
and  chose  our  anchorage  as  before  stated. 

Juhj  28///. — On  the  following  morning,  which  was  Monday,  the  28th, 
I  went  on  shore  to  wait  on  the  captain-general  of  the  island,  whose 
residence  is  at  Port  Praya,  although  Ribeira  Grande,  a  town  seven  or 
eight  miles  farther  west,  is  the  capital  of  St.  Jago.  On  entering  the 
gateway  of  the  town  I  was  received  by  a  negro,  who  conducted  me  to 
the  palace  of  his  excellency, — for  such  it  might  be  called,  when  com- 
pared with  the  miserable  hovels  in  its  vicinity.  Its  external  was  white- 
washed, which  gave  it  a  tolerably  decent  appearance. 

After  being  formally  announced  by  a  ragged  sentinel,  I  was  led 
up  a  ladder,  into  a  large  apartment,  rough  and  unfinished.  The  raf- 
ters and  floor  were  just  as  the  materials  came  from  the  sawpit,  with- 
out paint,  or  other  decoration,  excepting  some  rude  prints  of  the 
Virgin  Mary,  a  few  saints,  &c.  Here  I  found  the  general  at  break- 
fast, with  half  a  dozen  monks  wrapped  in  frieze,  with  figures  and 
countenances  that  indicated  any  thing  but  abstinence  and  penance. 
The  general's  lady  was  also  present,  together  with  three  other  Portu- 
guese females  of  no  ordinary  personal  attractions.  They  all  spoke 
tolerably  good  Spanish,  and  in  that  language  I  was  able  to  converse 
with  them. 

As  the  Antarctic  was  the  first  American  which  had  touched  here 
for  some  time,  they  had  a  thousand  questions  to  ask  respecting  the 
United  States,  and  the  manners,  customs,  Sec.  of  the  people,  especi- 
ally the  dtess  and  amusements  of  the  American  ladies.  Having 
gratified  them  in  all  these  important  particulars,  and  partaken  of  a  cup 
of  coffee  with  the  ladies,  agreeably  to  the  custom  of  the  place,  I  took 
a  turn  with  them  in  the  garden,  which  was  more  tastefully  arranged 
than  any  thing  of  the  kind  I  had  seen  in  any  other  island  of  the  group. 


July.]  PORT  PRAY  A.  271 

We  returned  from  our  walk  just  in  time  for  me  to  attend  the  market, 
where  I  intended  to  purchase  the  necessary  fruit  and  vegetables.  I 
therefore  took  leave  of  my  new  friends,  who  would  not  suffer  me  to 
depart  until  I  had  promised  to  dine  with  them,  and  repaired  to  the 
market ;  which  proved  to  be  quite  destitute  of  such  articles  as  I 
wanted.  At  the  suggestion  of  one  of  the  islanders,  however,  I  made 
out  a  list  of  the  productions  I  wished  to  purchase,  and  he  engaged  to 
have  them  all  ready  at  the  landing  by  sundown. 

Having  now  some  time  on  my  hands  before  dinner,  I  thought  I 
could  not  better  dispose  of  it  than  in  surveying  the  town,  and  the  ad- 
jacent country,  in  order  to  acquire  a  more  accurate  idea  of  their  trade, 
productions,  &c. 

The  inhabitants  of  Praya  are  mostly  negroes,  "bond  and  free," 
amounting  to  about  three  thousand,  of  whom  four  hundred  are  "  mili- 
tia on  duty,  or  soldiers,  as  they  are  called.  There  are  not  more  than 
forty  whites  in  the  town  ;  and  all  the  officers,  except  half  a  dozen,  are 
mulattoes — even  their  chaplain  is  black.  The  population  of  the 
whole  island  I  understood  to  be  about  twelve  thousand,  generally 
black,  or  of  a  mixed  colour,  a  few  of  the  better  rank  excepted.  The 
face  of  the  country'  is  irregular  and  mountainous  ;  in  some  places 
quite  steril,  but  in  general  highly  fertile  and  productive. 

Cotton  is  the  principal  production  of  St.  Jago ;  but  maize,  sugar, 
coffee,  and  the  vine  are  cultivated  with  considerable  success.  Among 
its  fruits  are  oranges,  citrons,  lemons,  limes,  tamarinds,  pomegranates, 
pine-apples,  cocoanuts,  custard-apples,  quinces,  grapes,  plantains,  musk 
and  water-melons,  guavas,  papaMs,  bananas,  pumpkins,  and  other 
tropical  fruits.  There  are  also  some  cedar-trees,  with  a  pine  which 
produces  tar.  The  animals  are  beeves,  horses,  asses,  mules,  deer, 
goats,  hogs,  civet  cats,  and  a  species  of  monkeys,  with  a  black  face 
and  long  tail.  Of  the  feathered  tribes,  there  are  domestic  fowls, 
ducks,  guinea-hens,  paroquets,  parrots,  pigeons,  turtle-doves,  crab- 
catchers,  curlews  ;  and,  in  fact,  birds  of  almost  every  description,  some 
of  which  are  very  valuable  for  their  plumage. 

But  notwithstanding  the  abundance  which  is,  or  might  be,  raised  on 
this  island,  there  is  no  commerce,  and  the  price  of  refreshments  for 
ships  which  stop  here  for  supplies  is  far  too  high  to  be  termed  reason- 
able.  For  a  bullock  they  charge  from  thirty  to  thirty-five  dollars ; 
for  long-haired  African  sheep,  four  dollars  apiece ;  milcli  goats, 
three  dollars ;  hogs  of  a  middling  size,  five  dollars ;  turkeys,  one 
dollar  and  a  half;  fowls,  four  dollars  a  dozen.  Fruit  and  vegetables, 
however,  of  all  kinds,  may  be  bought  of  the  slaves  at  a  moderate 
price.  The  cistern  which  supplies  the  shipping  with  water  i*s  at  the 
bottom  of  the  hill  on  which  the  castle  is  erected,  and  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  from  the  beach.  The  water,  however,  is  not  of  the  best 
quality,  being  somewhat  brackish  to  the  taste,  particularly  in  dry 
seasons,  at  which  times  there  is  often  a  scarcity  of  provisions  and  all 
the  necessaries  of  life.  Indeed,  I  was  credibly  informed  that  these 
periods  of  famine  are  sometimes  so  severe  that  great  numbers  of  the 
poor  wretched  negro  slaves  perish  for  want."  The  governor  derives 
his  chief  profit  from  the  sales  of  cattle  to  the  ships  which  touch  here, 


'Z7'l  '  CAPE  VERDS.  [1828, 

in  addition  do  a  salary  from  ilie  crown  of  two  liundrcd  dollars  per 
month.    ' 

As  1  was  crossing  the  parndc-ground,  on  my  May  to  visit  the  Ibrti- 
fications,  I  again  encountered  my  fair  friends,  tlie  ladies  with  whom  I 
had  breakfasted,  and  wiih  wliom  I  had  promised  to  dine.  On  learning 
my  purpose,  they  politely  otTered  to  accompany  me,  a  proposition 
which  1  eagerly  accepted.  We  accordingly  left  the  promenade  to- 
gether, and  proceeded  to  what  is  here  denominated  a  fort,  but  wliich 
would  become  almost  any  other  appellation  equally  well.  iJehiud 
the  ruins  of  a  parnpei-Mall,  which  once  faced  the  bay,  are  planted 
sixteen  old  iron  cannon  of  dilVerent  calibers.  Besides  this  post,  sev- 
eral high  platform  points  that  surround  the  bay  are  also  defended  in 
a  similar  manner,  each  of  which  is  guarded  bv  a  negro  familv.  Tliere 
are  no  regular  troops,  neither  European  nor  native,  a  few  Portuguese 
officers  excepted  :  so  that  the  defence  of  these  works  must  depend 
upon  the  militia,  one  of  whom  is  seen  standing  as  sentinel,  at  the 
distance  of  every  dozen  yards,  throughout  the  town.  These  wretched 
men  exactly  correspond  with  the  fortiiications,  both  in  dress  and 
accoutrements.  They  are  of  all  possible  complexions  that  a  painter's 
imagination  can  conceive^  and  if  paraded  according  to  shades,  would 
furnish  a  practical  illustration  of  the  following  paradoxical  couplet: 

•'  Falsehood  and  tnuh,  opposed  like  bla<;k  and  while, 
By  unperceivcd  gradations  may  unite."' 

With  respect  to  their  arms,  scarcely  one  musket  in  ten  can  boast  the 
convenient  appendage  of  a  lock,  or  at  least  one  that  will  give  fire  ; 
and  about  hall"  their  gun-barrels  are  actually  lashed  to  their  stocks  by 
cords,  iliongs  of  leather,  or  wire  !  And  as  regards  personal  appearance, 
FalstafT's  forces  were  a  troop  of  dandies  to  them. 

When  vessels  are  about  to  sail,  the  governor  requires  them  to  notify 
liim  of  the  time,  in  order  that  lie  may  make  signals  for  the  dillerent 
batteries  to  let  tiiem  pass.  I  could  scarcely  refrain  from  smiling 
when  his  excellency  hiformed  me  that  this  w'as  a  necessary  ceremony, 
and  at  the  same  time  gravely  assuring  me  that  on  my  hoisting  a  Hag 
at  the  fore,  he  would  immediately  give  orders  by  signal  for  the  batte- 
ries not  to  detain  my  vessel.  I  applauded  the  arrangement,  and  ex- 
pressed my  acknowledgments  for  his  politeness ;  although  I  was  sat- 
isfied that  with  the  crew  of  the  Antarciic,  I  might  land  and  spike  every 
gun  in  the  place,  and  then  go  to  sea  at  our  leisure.  The  bay  of  Port 
Pray  a,  however,  jwsfeesses  the  greatest  capabilities  of  being  strongly 
fortified  against  nautical  assailants  ;  and  by  a  simple  wall,  erected  in 
those  places  where  the  sides  of  the  table-hill  are  not  perpendicular, 
the  town  might  be  secured  from  a  coup  de  ?nain. 

In  the  centre  of  the  governor's  citadel  (the  fortifications  v»-e  were 
now  examining)  is  the  grave  of  a  brave  Engli.sh  officer.  Captain  Eve- 
leigh ;  the  spot  being  distinguished  by  a  patch  of  pavement  of  round 
pebbles.  This  highly  meritorious  naval  officer  commanded  his  Bri- 
tannic majesty's  ship  Acteon,  rated  as  a  sloop-of-war,  and  was  slain  in 
action  with  a  French  frigate. 


April.]    .  PORT  ERArA.  •   ^,  273 

From  the  town  we  descended  by  a  zigzag  path,  to  a  valley  on  the 
left,  which  my  fair  cieerones  called  the  Val  de  Trinidad,"over  which 
are  scattered  some  clusters  of  date-trees,  some  mimosas,  and  other 
spontaneous -vegetation.  But  the  most  successful  attempts  at  cultiva- 
tion are  in  the  vicinity  of  the  wells  which  supply  the  town  and  ship- 
ping with  water.  In  the  upper  part  of  this  valley  is  a  negro  hut, 
which  is  surrounded  by  a  miserable  plantation  of  cotton  shrubs. 
Water  alone  is  wanting  to  render  the  soil  of  this  valley  fruitful ;  and 
a  sufficient  quantity  for  the  purpose  of  irrigation  might  be  obtamed  by- 
digging  to  a  moderate  depth.  But  even  this  trifling  exertion  is  too 
great  an  undertaking  to  be  attempted  by  the  present  generation  of  in- 
habitants, who  must  give  place  to  a  very  different  race  of  people 
before  this  or  any  other  species  of  improvement  can  be  effected. 
Thougli  the  mimosa, grows  to  a  large  size,  even  in  the  most  arid  spots 
of  the  island,  the  inhabitants  have  never  thought  of  planting  them  in 
the  towns,  wliere  they  would  not  only  be  ornamental,  but  extremely 
useful  in  moderating  the  excessive  heat  caused  by  the  action  of  the 
sun  on  the  ferruginous  sands. 

Our  pedestrian  excursion  extended  about  two  miles  from  town,  to 
the  upper  part  of  the  valley,  where  the  gcwernor's  country-house  is 
situated.  The  youngest  of  my  fair  companions  informed  me  that  this 
was  her  father's  property,  and  that  it  was  to  be  her  marriage  dower. 
I  looked  at  the  blushing  maiden,  and  then  at  the  premises.  At  the 
foot  of  the  precipice,  near  the  house,  is  a  very  beautiful  garden,  con- 
taining oranges,  lemons,  plantains,  bananas,  pine-apples,  cocoanut- 
trees,  and  many  other  kinds  of  excellent  fruit,  and  a  variety  of  vege- 
tables. 

The  interior  of  the  island,  I  was  informed,  is  much  more  fertile 
than  those  parts  which  are  near  the  seashore ;  the  valleys  being  well 
watered  by  little  springs,  some  of  which  form  small  brooks  and  rills. 
Near  the  centre  of  the  island,  some  of  the  valleys  are  covered  with 
plantations  of  fruits  and  vegetables,  and  the  hills  are  well  clothed 
with  grass,  afibrdiiig  pasture  for  numerous  herds  of  cattle  and  flocks 
of  sheep. 

We  returned  to  tlie  governor's  house  about  four  o'clock,  when  we 
found  that  dinner  was  Vv-aiting  for  us,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  were 
ail  seated  at  the  table.  The  party  v/as  large,  comprising  seven  ladies, 
which  imparted  a  polish  and  refinement  to  the  conversation  which 
seldom  exist  m  a  company  where  they  are  not  present.  After  dinner 
the  ladies  entertained  us  with  several  songs,  accompanied  by  the 
piano-forte  and  guitar;  and  about  seven  o'clock  I  took  my  leave, 
highly  delighted  with  the  recreations  of  the  day,  and  the  hospitality 
of  my  kind  entertainers.  On  reaching  the  beach,  I  found  that  the 
refreshments  I  had  ordered  were  all  in  readiness,  and  we  lost  no  time 
in  having  them  conveyed  on  board. 

The  laeautiful  bay  of  Port  Praya  is  formed  by  two  points  which 
bear  from  each  other  aljout  cast  and  west,  distant  one  mile  and  three- 
quarters,  with  water  of  a  very  equal  depth.  A  small  black  islanf?, 
with  a  flat  lop,  is  situated  on  the  west  side  oT  the  bay,  and  is  called 
the  Isle  of  Quails.     From  the  south  end  of  this  island  runs  a  rocky 


c 


374  *  CAPE  VERD8.  [1828. 

point,  extending  about  a  cable's  length,  in  a  south-west  direction. 
There  are  also  some  rocks,  which  put  olF  the  west  point  of  the  bay^ 
to  the  distance  of  about  one  hundred  fathoms,  and  in  saihng  from  this 
port  in  the  night,  it  requires  some  care  to  avoid  them,  particularly 
when  the  wind  is  light  and  well  to  the  eastward. 

With  respect  to  the  anchorage,  it  may  be  proper  to  observe,  that 
large  ships  should  lay  well  out,  and  not  more  than  two  hundred 
fathoms  from  the  east  shore,  in  order  to  ensure  their  weathering  the 
west  point  of  the  bay,  in  going  to  sea  at  night,  should  the  wind  be 
light,  and  far  to  the  eastward.  The  wind  generally  hangs  in  that 
quarter  during  the  months  of  November,  December,  and  January ; 
though  it  occasionally  veers  to  the  northward.  The  best  situation  for 
ships  to  lie  in  is  with  the  flag-stafl"  in  the  fort  at  the  town  bearing 
north-west ;  Point  Tamaros,  or  the  west  extremity  of  the  bay,  south- 
west ;  and  the  eastern  point,  east-south-east,  olT  the  landing-place 
one  mile,  and  ofl*  the  east  siiorc  two  cables'  length.  At  this  place  the 
winds  are  generally  from  the  north-east  quarter,  and  frequently  the 
weather  is  cloudy  with  squalls.  It  seldom  rains  in  the  dry  season, 
but  a  heavy  haze  mostly  prevails.  When  the  weather  is  settled,  there 
are  often  regular  land  and  sea-breezes  in  the  bay  of  Port  Praya. 
The  sea-breeze  sets  in  near  noon,  and  ends  about  five  in  the  after- 
noon ;  after  which  time  the  north-east  wind  sets  in  towards  evening, 
and  continues  during  the  night,  and  often  until  nine  o'clock  in  the 
morning. 

There  is  always  some  surf  on  the  beach  at  the  head  of  the  bay ; 
therefore,  in  taking  fresh  water,  boats  should  lay  at  their  grapnels, 
and  raft  the  casks  on  shore,  and  alongside  of  the  ship,  taking  care  that 
they  are  perfectly  tight  and  well  bunged.  When  the  surf  is  high,  there 
is  a  good  landing-place  on  a  rocky  point  at  the  south-east  side  of  the 
head  of  the  harbour,  v/here  a  pathway  will  be  seen  leading  to  the 
town.  It  is  also  necessary  to  be  cautious  in  carrying  sail  in  boats  in 
the  bay,  as  the  pufls  of  whid  from  the  highlands  are  very  sudden  and 

'  As  soon  as  the  refreshments  were  safely  stowed  onboard, I  hoisted 
the  requisite  signal  on  the  fore,  and  got  under  way  at  nine,  P.  M., 
Avhile  the  governor's  pass-signal  was  as  prompily  displayed  from  the 
citadel.  We  steered  to  the  south-west,  with  a  line  breeze  from  north- 
east, and  fair  weather.  At  ten,  P.  M.,  we  saw  the  burning  volcano  of 
Fogo,  or  Fuego,  an  island  lying  about  thirty  miles  west-south-west  of 
St.  Jago. 

'  This  island  is  nearly  circular,  being  about  five  leagues  from  east  to 
■west,  and  four  leagcs  from  north  to  south.  On  its  eastern  part  is  a 
high  volcanic  mountain,  which  is  continually  burning,  at  times  ejecting 
ilames  and  liquid  sulphur.  This  island  is  very  thinly  inhabited  ;  but 
it  produces  fruit,  vegetables,  cattle,  sheep,  and  goats.  Ships  may 
»  obtain  refreshments  here  from  the  town  of  Luz,  which  is  built  at  the 
head  of  a  tolerable  good  harbour,  on  the  west  side  of  the  island. 

Nine  leagues  to  the  westward  of  Fuego  is  the  small  but  fertile 
island  of  Brava,  which  is  about  four  leagues  in  circumference,  and  of 
moderate  elevation.     It  is  said  to  be  the  most  fruitful  of  all  the  Cape 


Aug.]  IMAGINARY  DANGERS.  275 

Verd  Islands.  Porto  Fumo  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  island,  and  is  a 
good  harbour  for  vessels  under  two  hundred  tons.  It  has  a  narrow 
entrance,  and  if  large  ships  visit  this  port,  they  will  be  obliged  to 
warp  out,  which  may  be  done  with  great  ease  in  the  morning.  But  I 
should  recommend  Port  Furneo  that  lies  on  the  south  side  of  the 
island,  or  Porto  Faj en-dago,  on  tlie  west  side  for  ships  to  touch  at  for 
refreshments,  wood,  water,  &;c.  as  those  places  are  both  good  har- 
bours, and  the  best  for  obtaining  fruit,  vegetables,  beef,  pork,  goats, 
wood,  and  water  of  any  in  the  whole  group.  Ships  bound  to  this 
island,  need  apprehend  no  danger  in  approaching  it  on  either  side, 
more  than  one  cable's  length  from  the  shore.  The  inhabitants  are 
industrious  and  obliging,  and  the  ladies  are  sprightly,  intelligent,  and 
modest ;  and  are  particularly  partial  to  Americans. 

Before  closing  this  chapter,  and  taking  leave  of  the  Cape  Verd 
Islands,  I  think  it  proper  to  remark  that  some  charts  are  marked  with 
reefs  that  do  not  actually  exist.  It  is  my  firm  conviction  that  in  passing 
between  these  islands  and  the  African  coast,  nothing  need  be  feared  from 
the  Porgas  shoal,  which  is  said  to  be  about  mid-chamiel.  I  am  aware 
that  caution  is  the  parent  of  security,  and  that  it  is  best  to  err  on  the 
safe  side  of  the  question.  Butlhave  examined  the  log-books  of  many 
ships  which  have  passed  over  the  spot  which  this  shoal  was  supposed 
to  occupy,  and  have  become  convinced  that  it  does  not  exist. 

The  Bonetta  shoal  and  rocks  have  also  been  reported  as  dangers 
carefully  to  be  avoided  by  ships  passing  between  Alrica  and  the  Cape 
Verds.  They  are  said  to  lie  foriy-two  leagues  east-by-north  from  the 
north  end  of  Bonavista ;  with  shoal  water  on  them,  three  miles  in 
length  north-east  and  south-west,  and  about  half  that  breadth.  This 
reef  may  also  be  put  down  as  not  existing,  for  I  have  crossed  the  sit- 
uation assigned  to  it,  and  have  examined  the  log-books  of  more  than 
twenty  ships  who  have  vainly  endeavoured  to  sight  it. 

There  is  likewise  said  to  be  a  reef  of  rocks  lying  ten  leagues  to  the 
north-east  of  Bonavista,  of  about  the  length  of  two  cables,  and  of  a 
breadth  of  half  that  distance,  nearly  even  with  the  surface  of  the  water.- 
As  most  of  the  ships  running  for  the  islands  of  Sal  or  Bonavista  first 
make  them  bearing  from  west  to  south-west,  it  is  strange  that  the  reef 
just  mentioned  has  never  been  seen  by  any  of  them  ;  and  the  fact  that 
it  has  not  furnished  just  reasons  to  doubt  hs  existence. 

We  were  now  prepared  to  pursue  our  voyage  to  its  ultimate  point  of 
destination.  jMorethan  thirty  days  had  elapsed  since  we  left  the  port 
of  New-York,  in  which  time  we  had  crossed  the  wide  Atlantic,  and 
sighted  every  island  and  rock  in  the  Cape  Yerd  group,  and  landed  on 
the  most  of  them.  The  reader  must  think  it  high  time  that  I  said 
something  concerning  the  merits  of  my  vessel,  in  this  her  tirst  essay 
on  the  element  of  her  adoption.  1  will  do  so  before  I  proceed  any 
further ;  and  the  only  reason  which  induced  me  to  defer  it  until  the 
present  moment  was  to  give  the  Antarctic  a  fair  trial  before  I  recorded 
my  testimony  of  her  character.     It  is  this  : — 

A  better  sea-boat  never  floated  upon  blue  water,  smooth  or  rough, 
than  the  schooner  Antarctic,  She  has  equalled  my  wishes,  and  trans- 
cended my  expectations.     I  shall  strive  hard  to  render  her  name  im* 

S2 


276  *       ISLAND  OF  SAXENBURGH.  [1828. 

mortal*;  and  if  I  am  ever  fortunate  enough  to  re-enter  the  circle  from 
'whicli  she  derives  her  name,  it  shall  go  hard  with  me  but  the  flying* 
jib-boom  of  my  vessel  will  point  still  nearer  to  the  south  pole  than 
northern  pine  has  ever  yet  done.     But  more  of  this  hereafter. 

We  continued  steering  to  the  south,  with  fine  breezes  from  the  north- 
cast,  untilTiiursday,  the  31st  of  July,  at  which  time  we  lost  the  north- 
east trades,  in  lat.  9^  50'  north,  long.  20^  14'  west ;  variation  per  azi- 
muth 16^  11 '  westerly;  the  current  setting  w^st-south-west,  thirteen 
miles  in  twenty-four  hours.  From  the  last-mentioned  dale  to  the 
6ih  of  August  M'e  had  the  winds  from  south-west  to  south-south-east, 
attended  with  much  rain ;  we '  then  took  the  south-east  trade-wind 
from  south-south-east,  and  fair  weather,  in  lat.  1°  25'  north,  long.  21 -" 
47'  west;  variation  per  azimuth,  at  10,  A.  M.,  14°  45' westerly:  cur- 
rent setting  to  the  north-west-by-west,  fourteen  miles  in  twenty-four 
hours. 

August  7th. — On  the  following  day,  which  was  Thursday,  we 
crossed  the  equator,  in  long.  22°  54'  west,  with  a  fine  breeze  from 
south-east  to  east-south-east,  and  fair  weather.  We  were  now  just 
about  half-way  between  the  coast  of  Africa  and  that  of  Brazil ;  Sierra 
Leone  bearing  north-east,  and  Pernambuco  south-west.  It  may  here 
be  proper  to  obsen'e,  that  ships  bound  round  thfe  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
should  always  pass  ten  or  fifteen  leagues  to  the  westward  of  the  Cape 
A'erd  Islands,  if  they  need  no  refreshments ;  and  endeavour  to  leave 
the  north-east  trades  in  between  twenty-two  and  twenty-three  degrees 
of  M'cst  lons^itude.  They  should  also  endeavour  to  cross  the  equator 
in  the  same  longitude  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  ;  by  attending  to  which 
they  will  invariably  shorten  their  passage,  and  have  the  weather  more 
regular. 

August  ISlJt. — After  crossing  the  equator  we  continued  standing  to 
the  soudnvard,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  south-east  to  east-south-east, 
and  fair  weather,  until  Monday,  when  we  lost  the  south-east  trade-wind 
in  lat.  28°  14'  south,  long.  29°  4'  west.  On  the  folloMing  day  we  took 
a  light  breeze  from, west-south-west.  On  Wednesday,  the  20th,  we 
were  in  lat.  30°  37'  fouth  ;  and  at  1,  P.  M.,  our  lat.  was  30°  40'  south, 
long.  28°  41' west,  with  the  wind  from  west-south-M'est,  and  fair 
weather. 

I  now  determined  to  siglit  the  island  of  Saxenburgh,  if  such  an 
island  really  existed  witliin  any  reasonable  distance  of  the  spot  in 
w  hich  it  is  said  to  be  situated.  The  location  which  lias  been  assigned 
to  it  is  about  half-way  between  the  eastern  coast  of  South  America  and 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  in  lat.  30°  43'  south,  and  long.  19°  30'  west. 
We  made  a  due  east  course,  keeping  two  men  at  the  mast-head,  day 
and  night,  until  we  were  in  long.  17°  21' west,  without  seeing  any  indi- 
cations of  land  whatever.  Durino-  the  time  of  our  making  this  run  of 
/eleven  degrees,  we  were  not  three  miles  from  the  parallel  of  30°  40'» 
excepting  about  eight  hours ;  when  on  Saturday,  the  23d  of  August^ 
we  were  roused  by  the  cheering  cry  from  the  mast-head  of  "  Land,  ho  ! 
land,  ho  !  about  six  points  off  the  starboard  bow." 

We  now  had  the  wind  from  west-by-south,  whicli  permitted  us  to 
haul  up  for  it ;  but  after  running  in  that  direction  about  four  hours,  at 


Aug.]  ISLAND  OF  SAXENBURGH.    .  277 

the  rate  of  eight  miles  an  hour,  our  tantalizing  land  took  a  sudden 
start,  and  rose  about  ten  degrees  above  the  horizon.  Convinced  that 
we  could  never  come  up  to  it  in  the  ordinary  course  of  navigation,  we 
now  tacked  and  stood  to  the  northward.  We  had  likewise  seen  land 
the  day  before,  at  4,  P.  M.,  exactly  in  our  wake,  which  appeared  to  be 
about  twenty  miles  distant. 

August  24:th. — On  Sunday  we  found  ourselves  in  lat.  30°  41' south, 
long.  15°  57'  west,  and  feeling  satisfied  that  any  further  search  for  Sax- 
enburgh  Island  would  be  a  useless  waste  of  time,  we  shaped  our 
course  for  the  south  African  coast,  our  first  pomt  of  destination  being 
Saldanha  Bay,  a  little  south  of  the  parallel  on  which  we  were  now 
running  to  the  east.  We  crossed  the  meridian  of  Greenwich  on  the 
28th,  in  latitude  30°  55'  S. 

The  island  of  Saxenburgh  is  said  to  have  been  first  seen  by  J.  Lin- 
deman,  a  Dutch  navigator,  who  sailed  from  Monikendam,  in  1670.  On 
the  23d  of  August,  of  that  year,  he  discovered  an  island,  as  he  sup- 
posed, bearing  north-east-by-north,  distant  about  six  leagues.  He  de- 
scribed it  very  particularly,  and  accompanied  his  description  with  a 
view  taken  at  sundown  of  the  same  day.  He  represents  it  as  having 
a  remarkable  narrow  peak,  lilie  a  column,  rising  near  the  centre  of  the 
island,  and  he  named  his  new  discovery  Saxenburgh,  in  honour  of  a 
German  town  of  that  name  in  the  circle  of  Westphalia,  twenty  miles 
north-west  of  Hanover. 

Captain  Galloway,  in  the  American  ship  Fanny,  bound  to  Canton, 
in  1804,  supposed  that  he  saw  this  island  at  ten  leagues'  distance,  and 
states  that  it  was  in  sight  four  hours  from  the  mast-head,  without 
changing  its  appearance,  which  exhibited  a  peaked  hill  in  the  centre, 
and  a  bluff  at  the  west  end,  situated  in  the  latitude  of  30°  43',  but  two 
decrees  farther  east  than  laid  down  in  the  chart. 

This  illusory  island  was  again  supposed  to  have  been  seen  by  Cap- 
tain J.  O.  Head,  in  the  ship  True  Briton,  on  a  voyage  to  Calcutta,  the 
9th  of  March,  1816.  The  log-book  of  this  ship  states,  that  "At  8, 
A.  M.,  fresh  breezes  from  north-by-west,  and  dark  cloudy  weather,  saw 
what  we  supposed  to  be  an  island,  bearing  east-south-east,  distant  six 
leagues,  forming  a  high  pinnacle  at  the  southern  end,  and  gradually  de- 
creasmg  in  height  to  the  north  end.  At  10,  A.  M.,  squally  weather, 
the  land  having  still  the  same  appearance  as  the  clouds  cleared  off  at 
intervals.  At  noon  our  latitude  by  observation  30°  42'  south,  long.  21^ 
40'  west,  by  mean  of  three  chronometers  ;  the  centre  of  the  island 
bearing  east-by-north-half-north  per  compass,  twenty-four  miles.  At 
2,  A.  M.,  cloudy  weather  with  rain,  lost  sight  of  the  land,  which  we 
concluded  was  the  island  of  Saxenburgh,  laid  down  by  Captain  Hors- 
burgh  as  doubtful." 

Captain  James  Horsburgh,  F.R.S.  who  has  had  twenty-one  years' 
experience  as  shipmaster  in  the  India  trade,  says  that  he  has,  at  two  dif- 
ferent times,  endeavoured  to  gain  sight  of  this  doubtful  island,  by  cross- 
ing the  longitude  of  19°  west,  at  one  time  a  few  miles  to  the  southward 
of  its  latitude  ;  and  at  another  time  a  little  more  northerly  than  the  lati- 
tude assigned  to  it,  without  seeing  any  indications  of  land. 

From  my  own  observations,  and  those  of  the  many  celebrated  Eng- 


278  <^*^PE  OF  GOOD  HOPE.  [1828. 

lish  navigators  who  have  endeavoured  to  sight  this  island  of  Saxen- 
burgh,  1  am  of  opinion  that  such  an  island  does  not  exist.  Clouds,  ex- 
actly like  land  in  appearance,  will  sometimes  remain  stationary  at  the 
horizon  in  this  part  of  the  ocean,  for  a  greut  length  of  time,  and  are 
easily  mistaken  for  distant  islands.  The  natural  conclusion  is,  that 
those  gentlemen  who  have  reported  to  have  seen  the  island  of  Saxen- 
burgh  must  have  been  deceived  by  one  of  those  stationary  clouds 
which  are  connnon  in  this  parallel. 

Sept.  4tlt. — We  continued  our  easterly  course,  with  strong  winds 
from  west-north-west  to  south-south-east,  and  occasional  foul  M'eather, 
until  we  made  the  African  coast,  in  lat.  33°  18'  soutli,  and  on  this 
morning,  which  was  Thursday,  at  6,  A.  M.,  we  .anchored  in  Saldanha 
Bay,  m  four  fathoms  of  water,  mud  and  clay  bottom,  entirely  land- 
locked, and  sheltered  from  all  winds. 


CHAPTER  III. 


The  Cape  of  Good  Hope — A  Brief  History  and  Description  of  the  Colony — Sal- 
danha Bay — St.  Helen's  Bay — Berg  or  Mountain  River — The  Vale  of  Draken- 
stein — Oliphant  or  Elephant  River — Koussie  River — Cape  Voltas — Volcanic 
Productions — Projected  Speculation — The  Gariep  or  Orange  River — Angras 
Juntas  Bay — Whale  Bay — Possession  Island — Elizabeth  Bay — A  Peep  at  the 
Interior — Angra  Pequena,  or  Santa  Cruz — Ichaboe  Island — Mercury  Island — 
Intercourse  with  the  Natives — Bird  Island — Sandwich  Harbour — Walwich  Bay. 

The  southern  extremity  of  Africa,  since  it  became  the  seat  of  a 
European  colony,  has  formed  an  interesting  subject  for  the  investiga- 
tion of  travellers.  It  has  been  visited,  and  explored,  and  described,  by 
many  of  the  most  inquisitive  and  scientific  geographers  of  the  age ; 
and  yet,  with  the  exception  of  Cape  Town  and  its  vicinity,  this  (country 
appears  to  be  very  imperfectly  known.  Very  little  additional  informa- 
tion, however,  can  be  expected  from  an  humble  individual  like  me,  "  who 
am  not  meet  to  be  called"  a  geographer,  and  who  merely  resorts  to 
foreign  regions  in  the  "  beaten  way"  of  business, —  having  an  eye  more 
to  the  interests  of  my  employers  than  to  the  physical  aspect  or  moral 
condition  of  the  countries  I  visit.  1  shall,  therefore,  merely  remind  the 
reader  of  such  prominent  historical  facts  as  will  enable  him  to  accom- 
pany me  along  the  coast,  from  the  Cape  to  the  twenty-second^degree 
of  south  latitude,  without  being  compelled  to  exclaim,  in  the  language 
of  Jerry  Hawthorn,  "I'm  at  fault — can't  follow." 

The  southern  promontory  of  Africa,  commonly  called  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  is  a  peninsula,  nearly  ten  leagues  in  length,  composed  of 
a  vast  mass  of  mountains  and  rocky  land,  between  the  latitudes  of  33^ 
53^  and  34^  23'  8.  It  was  discovered  by  Bartholomew  Diaz,  an  emi- 
nent Portuguese  navigator,  in  1487,  who  named  it  Cabo  Tormentoso, 
or  the  Stormy  Cape,  on  account  of  the  boisterous  weather,  the  shat- 
tered state  of  his  ships,  and  the  mutinous  disposhion  of  his  crew, — all 
of  which  di/Hculties  combined,  compelled  him  to  return  to  Portugal 


Sept.]  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE.  279 

without  doubling  the  cape  he  had  discovered.  The  king  his  master, 
however,  gave  it  the  name  of  "  Good  Hope'''  as  lie  had  now  good  rea-^ 
son  to  hope  that  around  this  newly-discovered  point  of  Africa  lay  the 
long-wished-for  passage  to  India.  This  hope  was  realized  by  the  more 
•successful  Vasco  de  Gama,  who  ten  years  afterward  doubled  the  cape, 
and  passed  to  the  coast  of  Malabar. 

After  several  unsuccessful  attempts  by  the  Portuguese  to  plant  a 
colony  here,  the  Dutch  finally  succeeded,  in  1650,  under  the  direction 
of  Van  Riebeck,  who,  having  concluded  a  treaty  with  the  natives,  took 
possession  of  the  cape  peninsula,  and  laid  the  foundation  of  the  present 
town,  by  erecting  a  fort  of  wood  and  earth,  and  some  other  necessary 
buildings,  which  he  called  Kiev  de  Kou, — a  defence  against  all.  It 
was  in  the  genuine  Dutch  style,  like  the  fortress  which  they  erected 
for  the  defence  of  their  American  colony  Fort  Amsterdam,  now  the  city 
of  New- York. 

Van  Riebeck  soon  discovered  the  passion  which  the  poor,  weak,  but 
peaceful  and  inoffensive  Hottentots  had  conceived  for  spirituous  liquors, 
iirst  introduced  among  them  by  Christian  navigators  ;  and  being  a  gen- 
tleman of  some  sagacity,  he  thought  it  good  policy  to  turn  their  frailty 
to  his  own  advantage.  Thus,  by  giving  these  simple  people  a  few- 
casks  of  brandy,  a  little  tobacco,  iron,  and  some  paltry  trinkets,  he 
obtained  from  them  a  part  of  their  country,  and  many  of  their  flocks 
and  herds.  The  price  of  an  ox  Avas  then  a  piece  of  an  iron  hoop,  and 
the  purchase  of  a  M'hole  district  only  cost  a  cask  of  brandy. 

A  hundred  male  members  constituted  the  first  colony  of  the  cape : 
these  were  afterward  joined  by  an  equal  number  of  females  from  the 
houses  of  industry  in  Holland,  and  also  by  a  number  of  French  refu- 
gees, who  were  compelled  to  leave  their  native  country  in  1685,  on 
account  of  religious  persecution.  The  population,  from  that  period,' 
rapidly  increased ;  the  wild  beasts  were  extirpated,  or  driven  to  the 
interior,  and  the  Dutch  continued  to  extend  their  encroachments  over 
the  richest  districts  of  the  country  for  more  than  a  century. 

In  1795,  during  the  French  revolution,  the  English  took  possession 
of  this  colony,  and  retained  it  seven  years ;  but  delivered  it  up  to  the 
Batavian  republic  by  the  treaty  of  Amiens  in  1802.  In  1806  it  was 
again  taken  by  the  British,  under  Avliose  dominion  it  still  remains. 

This  extensive  colony  is  bounded  on  the  west  and  south  by  the  ocean, 
on  the  north  by  the  River  Koussie  and  the  country  of  the  Bosjesman 
Hottentots,  and  on  the  east  by  the  Great  Fish  River  and  the  country 
of  a  savage  race  called  the  Caffres,  who  have  given  the  colonists  more 
trouble  than  all  other  obstacles  combined.  The  settlement  comprises 
an  area  of  more  than  one  hundred  and  twenty-eight  thousand  square 
miles,  the  greater  part  of  which  is  covered  with  naked  mountains,  be- 
tween the  sloping  declivities  of  which  are  extensive  plains,  destitute  of 
running  water,  called  Karroos.  Tliese  plains,  however,  are  not  wholly 
deserts,  as  has  been  represented  by  inaccurate  travellers ;  but  are  at 
certain  seasons  of  tlie  year  clothed  with  verdure,  and  covered  with 
flowers  of  beautiful  tints  and  delightful  fragrance. 

The  north  end  of  tlie  promontory  forms  Table  Bay,  on  the  south 
shore  of  which  stands  C'ape  Town,  at  the  foot  of  Table  Mountain,  the 


■m 


280  SALDANHA  BAY.  [1828. 

latter  presenting  a  bold  and  almost  perpendicular  front,  rh\ng  three 
thousand  five  hundred  and  eighty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  bay.  On 
the  west  is  the  Lion's  Mountain,  so  called  from  its  bcRring  some  resem- 
blance to  the  shape  of  that  animal ;  and  on  the  cast  is  the  Devil's  Herg. 
The  majestic  appearance  of  these  heights,  particularly  that  of  Table 
JMomitain,  excites  the  admiration  of  every  voy;iger  who  enters  the  bay. 
The  town  stands  on  a  sloping  hill,  at  the  south-west  corner  of  the  bay, 
and  is  a  regular,  neatly-built  place,  and  well  supplied  with  water  by  a 
plentiful  stream  which  issues  from  the  Table  Mountain.  It  contains 
about  twelve  hundred  dwelling-houses,  which  are  inhabited  by  a  popu- 
lation of  eighteen  thousand  five  hundred  persons,  ten  thousand  of  whom 
are  blacks. 

The  principal  rivers  on  the  west  coast  of  this  colony  are  the  Ele- 
phant and  the  Berg  or  Mountain  River :  the  former  runs  in  a  nonherly 
direction  along  the  foot  of  the  western  chain  of  mountains,  and  falls 
into  the  Atlantic  in  latitude  31°  30'  S. :  the  Berg  or  Mountain  River 
has  its  source  in  the  mountains  which  enclose  the  Vale  of  Drakenstein, 
and  discharges  itself  into  St.  Helen's  Bay.  The  principal  bavs  on  this 
coast  are  Table  Bay,  False  Bay,  St.  Helen's  Bay,  and  Salti^ha  Bay, 
where  we  now  lay  at  anchor. 

The  entrance  to  this  fine  commodious  harbour,  which  is  througli 
a  ridge  of  granite  hills,  is  not  quite  three  miles  broad.  Its  north  point 
is  in  latitude  33°  3'  S.,  long.  17°  49' E.,  a  httle  m.ore  than  seventy-five 
miles  north  of  the  southern  extremity  of  the  cape.  This  bay  is  about 
fifteen  miles  in  length,  in  the  direction  of  north  and  south,  and  aflbrds 
at  all  seasons  very  excellent  shelter  and  anchorage.  Its  northern  arm 
is  called  Hoetjes  Bay,  on  the  north  side  of  which  there  is  good  anchor- 
age for  ships  of  any  size.  There  js  also  deep  water  on  the  west  side 
of  it,  close  to  a  granite  pier  formed  by  nature,  where  ships  may  lie  in 
perfect  safety  in  all  seasons  of  the  year ;  and  if  necessary  they  may 
heave-down  alongside  of  this  pier  without  any  risk.  The  only  disad- 
vantage in  the  northern  arm  of  the  bay  is  the  scarcity  of  fresh  water, 
which  might  be  easily  remedied  by  digging  a  few  wells  of  moderate 
depth,  from  which  fresh  water  could  be  obtained  in  any  quantity,  and 
of  an  excellent  quality.  The  southern  arm  of  Saldanha  Bay,  of  whicli 
I  shall  spfeak  presently,  furnishes  good  fresh  water  from  a  spring, 
which,  if  cleared  and  enlarged,  would  supply  a  fleet  with  this  nece,ssary 
article  in  a  very  short  time. 

Fn  entering  this  well-protected  bay,  attention  should  be  paid  to  the 
following  circumstances  and  localities : — On  the  north  side  of  the  en- 
trance is  a  small  island,  called  Mallagassen ;  and  on  the  south  side  is 
another,  in  a  bend  of  the  land,  near  the  shore,  called  Jutten.  Two 
miles  eastward  of  the  first-mentioned  island  is  a  third,  called  Maseus, 
Each  of  these  islands  has  a  reef,  which  puts  off  from  its  shore  about  a 
cable's  length.  As  all  three  of  them  are  low,  and  can  be  seen  but 
a  short  distance,  accuracy  in  the  vessel's  latitude  is  very  requisite. 
The  entrance  is  nearly  three  miles  broad,  and  clear  of  dangers  one 
cable's  length  from  either  of  the  islands  first  mentioned,  between  which 
ii  is  necessary  to  pass.  But  the  third  island,  Maseus,  may  be  passed 
on  ehher  side  at  ihe  distance  of  forty  fathoms,  though  the  widest 


Sept.]     .  SALDANHA  BAY— ST.  HELEN'S  BAY.  281 

passage,  and  the  best  for  strangers,  is  on  the  south  of  it.  We  car- 
ried in  from  fifteen  to  ten  fathoms  of  water,  and  chose  our  anchorage 
in  four. 

Ships  going  into  this  bay  with  the  intention  of  anchoring  in  its  south- 
em  arm  must  keep  the  south  shore  close  on  board ;  and  after  passing 
the  inner  point  of  the  bay,  haul  round  immediately  to  the  south,  and 
anchor  in  front  of  Riot  Bay,  in  five  or  six  fathoms  of  water,  about  half 
a  mile  from  the  shore,  on  the  west  side  of  the  harbour.  Here  vessels 
may  lie  in  perfect  safety,  sheltered  from  all  winds ;  and  if  in  want  of 
fresh  water,  the  casks  may  be  rafted  up  the  lagoon,  on  the  flood-tixle, 
and  filled  on  tlie  east  side  from  the  spring  before  mentioned,  which  is 
about  half  a  mile  below  the  guard-house,  or  flag-staff.  When  the  casks 
are  filled,  they  can  be  rafted  down  to  the  ship  in  a  short  time  by  taking 
advantage  of  the  ebb-tide.  Firewood,  however,  is  very  scarce  on  the 
banks  of  the  bay,  but  it  can  be  purchased  at  a  low  rate  of  the  neigh- 
bouring farmers,  who  will  bring  it  to  the  ship. 

At  the  entrance  of  th^  lagoon  on  the  south  side  of  Saldanha  Bay  are 
two  small  islands  ;  within  which,  about  two  miles  on  the  w^est  side,  is 
the  East  India  Company's  post ;  and  about  one  mile  farther  up,  on 
the  east  side,  is  the  president's  quarters.  Here  there  is  generally  a 
justice  of  the  peace  and  a  small  company  of  regular  troops.  Between 
this  place  and  Cape  Town  there  is  a  regular  intercourse,  and  a  mail, 
which  arrives  at  each  place  tv/ice  a  week. 

Refreshments  of  \'arious  kinds  may  likewise  be  purchased  of  the 
farmers,  who  cultivate  the  soil  on  the  east  side  of  the  bay, — rearing 
cattle,  horses,  sheep,  and  hogs  for  the  market  at  Cape  Town.  Fruits 
and  vegetables  may  be  had  in  abundan^ce  at  a  very  moderate  price,  and 
at  a  short  notice.  A  plenty  of  excellent  fish  may  be  caught  in  almost 
any  part  of  the  bay,  either  with  a  seine  or  a  hook  and  Ime.  In  fact,, 
this  is  an  excellent  place  for  ships  that  require  repairs,  repose,  or 
refreshments. 

In  running  for  Saldanha  Bay  in  the  night,  or  in  thick  weather,  care 
should  be  taken  not  to  fall  in  with  the  land  to  the  north  of  Baven's 
Point,  which  is  the  north  point  of  the  bay ;  as  there  are  many  sunken 
rocks  between  this  and  St.  Helen's  Bay,  some  of  which  run  from  three 
to  five  miles  to  the  westward,  with  bold  water  between  them. 

September  \Qth. — After  taking  on  board  a  sufficient  quantity  of  fresh 
water,  of  an  excellent  quality,  with  a  fine  stock  of  refreshments  of  all 
kinds,  we  got  under  way  on  Wednesday,  the  10th  of  September,  and 
steered  to  the  north,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  south-south-east,  and  fair 
weather,  with  the  intention  of  examining  the  west  coast  of  Africa,  as 
far  as  the  tropic  of  Capricorn.  On  the  following  morning,  at  five,  A.  M., 
we  were  close  in  with  St.  Martin's  Point,  which  lies  in  latitude  32°  42' 
S.,  long.  17°  45'  E. ;  variation  per  azimuth  at  nine,  A.  M.,  27°  4'  W. 
High  water  on  full  and  change  days  at  half-past  two  ;  rise,  seven  feet. 

St.  Martin's  Point  projects  from  the  coast  in  a  north-west  direction, 
forming  the  west  side  of  St.  Helen's  Bay,  the  northern  point  of  which 
is  Cape  Deseada.  The  distance  between  these  two  points  is  nine 
leagues,  and  the  bay  is  four  leagues  deep,  nnining  into  the  east  and 
south-east,  with  regular  soundings,  from  twenty  to  four  fathoms,  as 


283  BERG  RIVER.  [1828. 

you  approach  the  head  of  the  bay,  or  south  shore.  Here  a  ship  will 
find  good  and  sufe  ancliorage  lialf  a  mile  from  the  beach,  in  six  fathoms 
of  water,  mud  and  chiy  bottom,  sheUered  from  all  winds  excepting  from 
north  to  nortli-west.  These  winds,  however,  never  come  home  to  the 
bottom  of  tliis  bay  with  sufficient  force  to  injure  a  ship  at  any  season 
of  the  year.  In  the  summer  months,  Mhcn  the  southerly  winds  pre- 
vail, the  water  is  entirely  smooth  in  any  part  of  the  southern  side  of 
Jhe  bay.  The  best  anchorage  is  about  a  mile  from  the  soutliern  shore, 
fmmediately  in  front  of  a  house  that  stands  near  the  beach,  about  hall- 
way up  the  bay,  in  five  or  six  fathoms  of  water,  clay  bottom. 

From  the  Nvest  point  of  the  bay,  along  the  south  shore,  to  the  head 
of  the  bay,  extends  a  chain  of  rocks,  running  nearly  half  a  mile  from 
the  laiul ;  outside  of  which  there  are  no  other  dangers  until  you  ap- 
proach the  head  of  the  bay,  where  there  is  a  sand-bank,  lying  in  front 
of  tlie  Berg  or  Mountain  River,  about  two  miles  ofl-shore,  with  only 
three  feet  of  water  on  it  at  low  tide.  Ships  in  want  of  fresh  water  I 
would  recommend  to  anchor  near  this  bar,  and  send  the  casks  into  the 
river  on  the  flood  tide,  to  ascend  the  stream  as  far  as  the  flood  will 
carry  them,  which  is  about  five  miles.  Here  let  them  remain  imtil 
nearly  the  last  of  the  ebb,  when  the  bungs  may  be  knocked  out,  and 
the  casks  filled  with  \ery  little  trouble.  This  water  will  prove  to  be 
of  a  most  excellent  quality,  and  will  keep  sweet  as  long  as  any  that 
was  ever  taken  to  sea.  The  next  ebb-tide  will  take  the  full  casks 
<lown  to  the  ship  just  by  keeping  the  boat  ahead,  and  the  whole  pro- 
cess will  be  rather  a  pleasant  recreation  than  an  arduous  duty.  Of 
course  care  must  be  taken  that  the  casks  are  perfectly  clean,  tight, 
and  w'ell  bunged,  to  prevent  the  entrance  of  salt  water. 

I  have  filled  fifty  casks  at  this  river  at  two  diflerent  times,  and  al- 
,  though  I  had  large  crews,  they  w^ere  always  healthy  while  using  the 
water  from  the  Berg  River.  There  is  a  spring  near  the  house  before 
mentioned,  on  the  south  side  of  the  bay,  where  twenty  or  thirty  casks 
may  be  filled  at  any  time ;  but  the  water  is  not  good,  as  I  found  that 
about  twenty-five  of  my  crew  were  attacked  with  diarrhoea  after  drink- 
ing of  the  water  for  twenty-four  hours.  But  while  I  had  the  Berg 
River  water  on  board,  w^hich  was  nearly  eight  months,  there  was  not 
a  sick  man  among  a  crew  of  thirt3--five  men,  although  for  six  months 
of  the  time  the  weather  was  very  warm. 

The  farmers  that  reside  on  the  banks  of  Berg  River  are  principally 
Dutch,  and  very  industrious.  They  pay  their  attention  to  raising  grain, 
and  rearing  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep  for  the  Cape  Town  market. 
They  also  produce  some  wine  of  a  good  quality,  and  a  small  quantity 
of  brandy.  Beef  and  mutton  are  very  cheap  here ;  as  are  also  nearly 
all  kinds  of  fruits  that  are  common  to  tropical  climates,  as  well  as  a 
great  variety  of  vegetables.  I  have  purchased  fine  fat  bullocks  that 
would  w^eigh  eight  hundred,  for  four  dollars  each ;  sheep  for  one  dollar ; 
and  as  fine  oranges  and  lemons  as  I  ever  saw,  for  half  a  dollar  a  hun- 
dred ;  and  every  thing  else  in  proportion.  Wood  also  may  be  had  on 
the  banks  of  Berg  River,  but  not  of  large  size.  The  Dutch  farmers 
generally  employ  the  Hottentots  to  work  on  their  farms,  and  say 


Sept.]  DRAKENSTEIN  VALLEY— NATURAL  PRODUCTIONS.    283 

that  they  are  very  tmsty  and  inoffensive,  but  not  very  fond  of  hard 
work. 

The  wines  that  are  made  on  the  banks  of  Berg  River  are  principally 
made  in  an  extensive  valley  about  fifty  miles  from  the  river's  mouth, 
called  the  Vale  of  Drakenstein.  Tiiis  valley  is  a  remarkably  fertile 
tract  of  land,  enjoys  a  most  delightful  climate,  is  well  inhabited,  and 
its  soil  is  capable  of  every  species  of  agriculture.  Two-thirds  of  the 
wine  which  is  brought  to  Cape  Town  is  supplied  by  the  vineyards  of 
.^  Drakenstein  alone.  Great  quantities  of  choice  fruits  are  also  raised 
Iiere,  and  every  month  of  the  year  the  table  may  be  supplied  wiih 
various  kinds,  accompanied  with  six  or  eight  diflerent  sorts  of  wines. 

The  celebrated  Constaniia  wine  is  made  on  two  farms,  close  under 
the  mountains,  about  half-way  between  False  Bay  and  Table  Bay. 
One  of  these  farms  produces  the  white,  and  the  other  the  red  Con- 
stantia.  Some  of  the  wines  that  are  made  in  the  valley  of  Draken- 
stein are  frequently  sold  to  strangers  for  Constantia.  But  I  should 
suppose  that  any  one  might  easily  detect  the  fraud.  The  Constantia 
wine  is  of  an  exquisite  quality,  which  is  scarcely  susceptible  of  im- 
provement ;  but  the  other  varieties,  which  come  under  the  general 
appellations  of  Cape  wine  and  Cape  Madeira,  have  an  earthy  taste,  a 
diluted  flavour  of  Muscadel,  and  in  most  instances  an  undisguised  taste 
of  brandy. 

In  the  light  sandy  grounds  cotton  succeeds  well ;  coffee  and  sugar- 
cane might  both  be  cultivated  with  success,  if  properly  attended  to  ; 
and  indigo  grows  wild  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  Hemp  and  flax  are 
raised  here,  the  latter  producing  two  crops  a  year.  The  tea-plant  has 
been  a  long  time  in  the  colony,  having  been  brought  from  China ;  but 
.  it  is  now  totally  neglected.  Wheat,  barley,  and  oats  are  successfully 
cultivated ;  but  rice  does  not  gTOw  here. 

The  wild  beasts  common  to  this  country  are  gradually  retiring  be- 
fore the  encroachments  of  man.  The  lordly  lion  retreats  sullenly 
and  indignantly  before  the  image  and  likeness  of  his  Maker,  and  is 
only  seen  at  respectful  distances.  The  deserts,  however,  even  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  cape,  resound  with  the  howling  of  wolves  and  the  bel- 
lowmg  of  hyenas.  The  jackal  of  the  cape  and  the  tiger-cat  are 
also  common.  The  beautiful  white-faced  antelope,  or  springer,  is  so 
common  near  Fish  River,  that  herds  of  more  than  two  thousand  may 
sometimes  be  seen  together.  Gazelles,  with  their  "  exquisitely  soit 
and  expressive  eyes,"  are  numerous.  Zebras  are  becoming  very  rare 
in  the  colony.  The  elephants  have  also  forsaken  the  districts  inhabited 
by  Europeans.  The  two-horned  rhinoceros  shows  itself  still  less  ;  the 
ostrich  is  found  in  the  deserts  of  the  interior,  and  sometimes  comes  in 
troops  to  lay  waste  the  fields  of  corn. 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  animals  of  this  country  is  the  gnoo,  the 
head  of  which  bears  some  resemblance  to  the  African  bufl^alo.  lie 
lias  an  erect  mane  on  the  neck,  and  another  under  the  neck,  descend- 
ing from  the  breast  between  the  fore-legs.  His  shoulders  and  body 
are  somewhat  like  those  parts  of  tiie  horse,  while  he  has  the  elegant 
limbs  of  the  antelope.  Besides  the  animals  already  mentioned,  there 
are  foimd  here  the  wolf,  panther,  elk,  bufi'alo,  leopard,  rhinoceros 


28-t  SURVEY  OF  THE  COAST.  [1828. 

wild  (logs,  baboons,  hogs,  hares,  ant-bears,  or  ground-hogs,  porcupines, 
hedgehogs,  and  a  variety  of  monkeys.  Among  the  feathered  tribes 
are  eagles,  vultures,  kites,  pelinans,  flamingoes,  spoonbills,  cranes, 
ibises,  wild  geese  and  ducks,  teals,  snipes,  quails,  bustards,  and  par- 
tridges. Turtle-doves  of  many  sorts,  thrushes,  humming-birds,  and 
an  immense  variety  of  other  small  birds,  of  the  most  exquisitely  beau- 
tiful plumage,  are  foimd  in  the  woods ;  but  I  heard  none  of  them  sing. 
It  is  a  common  saying,  however,  that  '*  in  South  Africa  flowers  have 
no  smell,  birds  no  song,  rivers  no  fish."  But  there  is  no  rule  without 
an  exception ;  as  fish  are  found  in  some  of  the  rivers,  and  some  of 
these  beautiful  birds  may  have  delightful  notes. 

There  are  ostriches  of  two  kinds  that  frequent  the  sandy  plains  of 
Karroo,  in  considerable  numbers,  and  their  eggs  are  less  strong  in 
taste  than  those  of  ducks  or  geese.  The  females  are  very  sociable  in 
their  domestic  concerns  and  family  affairs.  It  is  not  unusual  to  find 
thirty-six  eggs  in  a  single  nest,  the  joint  stock  of  three  females,  who 
incubate  together,  attended  by  the  fathers  of  the  brood.  Along  the 
coast  are  various  kinds  of  sea-fish,  such  as  perches,  stone-breams,  rock- 
fish,  mackerel,  soles,  and  skate  ;  and  abundance  of  muscles  and  oysters. 
A  variety  of  serpents  and  other  reptiles  are  found  in  .the  forests,  to- 
gether with  scorpions  and  insects  of  various  kinds.  The  sea-cow  and 
the  alligator  are  found  in  the  Berg  River. 

From  St.  Martin's  Point  we  steered  to  tlie  north-east,  until  we  were 
abreast  of  Cape  Deseada,  which  is  a  low  sandy  beach  in  front  of 
bluff  sand-hills,  about  two  hundred  fathoms  back.  From  hence  our 
course  was  north-north-west,  for^bout  five  leagues,  when  we  were  in 
front  of  Lambert's  Cove,  in  which  small  vessels  may  lie  in  perfect 
safety,  in  three  fathoms  of  water.  The  entrance  is  from  the  north, 
and  it  runs  in  to  the  south-south-east  about  half  a  mile.  Several 
Dutch  farmers  reside  in  the  vicinity  of  this  harbour,  and  the  adjacent 
plains  are  covered  with  black-cattle. 

From  Lambert's  Cove  we  steered  north-north-west,  a  little  westerly, 
until  we  were  abreast  of  Cape  Dunkin,  in  lat.  31°  55'  S.,  long.  18°  6' 
E.  This  cape  is  the  south  point  of  a  small  bay  of  the  same  name, 
^vithin  which  ships  may  find  partial  anchorage,  in  from  ten  to  six 
fathoms  of  water,  sandy  bottom.  From  thence  we  continued  steering 
to  the  northward  for  the  distance  of  four  leagues,  when  we  were  close 
in  with  Elephant  River,  the  entrance  of  which  is  in  lat.  31°  37'  S., 
long.  17°  59'  E.  This  river  is  not  navigable  for  vessels,  nor  even 
boats,  unless  the  sea  is  very  smooth,  as  there  is  a  bar  stretching  across 
its  entrance,  with  only  two  feet  of  water  on  it ;  and  as  the  westerly 
swell  is  constantly  heaving  in  on  this  coast,  there  are  generally  heavy 
breakers  on  the  bar.  But  within  this  bar  there  is  plenty  of  water  for 
a  large  ship,  for  the  distance  of  two  miles  up  the  river,  in  front  of  a 
small  village,  where  there  are  several  Dutch  farmers  residing. 

This  river  enters  from  the  south,  running  in  north-north-west  about 
two  miles ;  and  then  it  turns  to  the  east  and  east-south-east,  carrying 
bold  water  for  a  long  distance  inland.  If  there  could  be  a  passage 
cut  through  the  bar  at  t!ie  mouth  of  this  river,  it  would  be  the  finest 
liHrix)ur  o!i  the  west  coast  of  Africa.     The  inhabitants  are  principally 


^ 


Sept.]  SURVEY  OF  THE  COAST.  285 

engaged  in  rearing  cattle,  only  cultivating  sufficient  grain  for  their  own 
consumption.  Fish  may  be  caught  in  great  abundance  in  the  mouth 
of  this  river,  within  the  bar.  There  are  no  dangers  between  Elephant 
River  and  St.  Helen's  Bay  that  lie  more  than  two  hundred  fathoms 
from'  the  shore.  The  soundings  are  regular.  Ten  miles  from  the 
land  you  will  have  forty  fathoms  of  water,  and  it  gradually  becomes 
more  shallow  as  you  approach,  until  you  are  within  one  mile  of  the 
beach,  when  you  will  find  ten  fathoms  of  water,  sandy  bottom,  with  a 
few  broken  shells. 

The  land  between  Elephant  River  and  St.  Helen's  Bay  deserves  a 
few  descriptive  remarks.  Bluff  sand-hills,  moderately  elevated,  are 
seen  from  one  hundred  to  three  hundred  yards  back  from  the  beach. 
About  half  a  mile  from  the  latter  the  sandy  ground  begins  to  terminate, 
and  the  soil  to  commence.  Another  half-mile  farther  inland  brmgs  us 
to  good  soil,  where  the  plains  are  as  line  for  grazing  as  any  in  the 
world.  Between  the  beach  and  the  sand-hills  just  mentioned  there  is 
a  fine  road,  running  a  great  part  of  the  distance  between  the  two 
places.  The  whole  coast  along  here  exhibits  unequivocal  evidences 
of  its  once  having  been  agitated  by  volcanic  eruptions ;  such  as  lava, 
in  irregular  masses,  with  different  strata  distinctly  defined.  Pumice- 
stones  also  are  scattered  over  the  country  for  manv  miles  inland, 
forming  irregular  hills,  &:g.,  interspersed  witli  lava,  basalt,  and  other 
volcanic  productions.  In  pulling  along  this  shore  with  my  boats,  I 
had  ample  opportunities  of  examining  these  relics,  and  making  these 
observations. 

Septemher  Idlh. — We  continued  exploring  the  coast  in  this  manner, 
keeping  the  boats  close  in-shore  in  search  of  fur-seal  on  every  mile 
of  the  coast,  until  Saturday,  the  13th  of  September,  when  we  fell  in 
with  a  small  island,  in  lat.  3P  32'  S.,  long.  17°  56'  E.,  about  half  a 
mile  from  the  shore.  Here,  for  the  first  time,  our  search  was  suc- 
cessful. A  small  reef  runs  ofl'  from  the  west  end  of  this  island,  to  the 
distance  of  about  a  hundred  fa  thorny. 

From  this  island  we  followed  the  shore  to  the  north-westward, 
passing  Fomt  Grazing,  in  lat.  31°  20''  S.,  and  four  places  which  are 
said  to  be  rivers,  viz.  Zwarte  Darn  River,  in  lat.  30°  45',  not  open ; 
Greene  River,  in  lat.  30°  33',  not  open ;  Zwarte  I.intjie  River,  30°  21', 
not  open ;  and  Koussie  River,  in  lat.  29°  54'  S.,  long.  16°  57'  E. ; 
the  latter  v/as  open,  and  may  be  passed  in  boats  only  at  full  sea.  It 
is  closed  at  times,  however,  in  the  dry  season,  by  the  shifting  of  the 
sand-hills  in  windy  weather.  This  may  well  be  called  Salt  River,  as 
the  salt  water  runs  up  it  about  fifteen  miles,  ten  miles  of  which  is  very 
shallow.     This  is  the  northern  bomidary  of  the  cape  colony. 

Many  of  the  rivers  which  intersect  this  extensive  colony  are  merely 
periodical  torrents,  which  continue  to  flow  during  the  rainy  season,  but 
which,  during  the  summer,  leave  their  deep-sunk  beds  almost  com- 
pletely dry;  and  the  rivulets  which  are  supplied  by  the  mountain 
springs  have  scarcely  escaped  from  their  lofty  sources,  before  they 
are  either  absorbed  by  the  thirsty  earth,  or  evaporated  by  the  heated 
air.  Even  the  permanent  rivers,  some  of  which  contain  sufiicient 
water  for  the  navigation  of  small  craft,  for  several  miles  up  the  country. 


286  CAPE  VOLTAS.  [182S. 

are  all,  except  the  Knysna,  rendered  inaccessible  by  a  bar  of  sand  or 
a  reef  of  rocks  across  the  mouth. 

The  land  bordering  on  the  seacoast  in  this  latitude  is  very  sandy, 
and  only  fit  for  grazing  fields ;  and  for  many  miles  into  the  interior  it 
seems  to  be  destitute  of  arable  soil.  Many  kinds  of  skins,  however* 
may  be  procured  here,  including  those  of  the  leopard,  fox,  bullock,  &;c., 
together  with  ostrich-feathers,  and  valuable  minerals  from  the  head  of 
Koussie  River.  Vast  numbers  of  horned  cattle  are  raised  in  the 
interior. 

From  the  mouth  of  this  river  the  coast  tends  north-north-west,  a 
little  westerly,  twenty-eigljt  leagues,  to  Cape  Voltas  in  latitude  28°  24' 
S.,  long.  16°  28'  E. ;  variation  per  azimuth  25°  55' westerly.  There 
is  a  -bank  of  soundings  that  puts  olT  to  tlie  west  of  this  cape,  about 
thirty  miles,  at  which  distance  there  is  forty  fathoms  of  water ;  the 
depth  becoming  gradually  and  regularly  reduced  as  we  approach  the 
shore.  This  bank  extends  southerly  along  the  coast,  quite  to  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  varying  from  thirty  to  tifty  miles  off-shore  ;  and 
from  Point  St.  ^Martin's  to  tlie  last-named  cape  there  are  many  dangers, 
lying  from  tvro  to  five  miles  off-shore.  But  north  of  St.  Martin's  to  Cape 
Voltas,  there  are  no  dangers  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
land. 

The  Socos  Islands,  laid  down  on  the  charts  as  lying  in  latitude  29^ 
35'  S.,  long.  16°  34'  E.,  said  to  be  about  twenty  miles  from  the  land, 
are  not  to  be  found.  They  have  been  represented  as  four  in  number, 
with  several  small  islands  between  them  and  the  continent.  But  I  can 
assert  positively  that  no  such  islands  exist ;  neither  is  there  any  island 
of  any  description  lying  between  St.  Helen's  Bay  and  Cape  Voltas, 
more  than  half  a  mile  from  the  main. 

Cape  Voltas  is  also  very  erroneously  laid  down,  in  latitude  29°  20' 
S.,  and  long.  16°  31'  E.,  with  a  deep  bay  running  in  on  the  north  side 
of  the  cape,  twenty-five  miles,  in  an  east-south-east  direction,  with  deep 
water  all  over  the  bay.  Now,  the  true  and  correct  situation  of  Cape 
Voltas  is  in  latitude  28°  27'  30"  S.,  long.  16"  17'  E.  The  cape  is  a 
high  blufif  point,  projecting  into  the  sea,  and  there  are  several  rocks 
lying  about  half  a  mile  to  the  west  of  it,  beyond  which  there  are  no 
dangers.  About  one  mile  north  of  the  cape  there  is  a  small  bay,  not 
more  than  two  miles  in  length,  and  one  and  a  half  in  width  ;  within 
which  the  anchorage  is  not  safe,  as  the  ground  is  foul,  and  heavy 
rollers  arc  continually  heaving  in  from  the  westward,  at  all  seasons  of 
the  year.  Ships,  however,  which  are  in  want  of  firewood,  may  lie 
off  and  on,  and  obtain  any  quantity  from  the  head  of  the  bay,  Avhere 
they  will  find  a  thousand  cords  piled  up  on  the  beach,  which  come 
down  the  Orange  or  Gariep  River,  the  entrance  to  which  is  about  two 
leagues  to  the  north  of  Cape  Voltas. 

The  land  around  the  cape,  and  to  the  south  as  far  as  Koussie  River, 
is  high  on  the  seaboard,  running  back  into  elevated  mountains.  The 
hill-sides  are  covered  with  very  good  grass  for  gi'azing  cattle,  but  the 
summits  of  these  eminences  are  one  mass  of  volcanic  productions.  I 
know  not  how  far  north  of  Table  Bay  Mr.  Barrow  travelled,  without 
discovering  "  a  volcanic  product ;"  but  I  am  positive  that  such  relics 


Sept.]  *         CAPE  VOLT.\S.  287 

might  have  been  found  m  great  abundance  as  far  south  as  Elephant 
River.  Mr.  Barrow  says,  "  There  is  neither  a  volcano  nor  a  vol- 
canic product  in  the  southern  extremity  of  Africa^  at  least  in  any  of 
those  parts  where  I  have  been  ;  nor  any  substances  that  seem  to  have 
undergone  the  action  of  fire,  except  masses  of  iron-stone,  found  gene- 
rally among  the  boggy  earth,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  some  of  the  hot 
springs,  and  which  appear  like  the  scoriae  of  furnaces.  Pieces  of 
pumice-stone,"  he  continues,  "  have  been  picked  up  on  the  shore  of 
Robben  Island  (or  Seal  Island,  in  the  mouth  of  Table  Bay),  and  on 
the  coast  near  Algoa  Bay,  which  must  have  been  wafted  thither  by  the 
waves,  as  the  whole  basis  of  tliis  island  is  a  hard  and  compact  blue 
schistus,  with  veins  of  quartz  running  through  it ;  and,  of  the  eastern 
coast,  iron-stone  and  granite." 

If  these  remarks  were  intended  to  apply  to  the  vicinity  of  Cape 
Town,  or  even  as  far  north  as  St.  Helen's  Bay,  a  distance  of  more 
than  a  hundred  miles  from  Table  Bay,  I  have  nothing  to  ofler  in  oppo- 
sition.    But  north  of  that,  I  must  contend  for  volcanic  remains. 

It  is  said  that  there  is  no  fresh  water  to  be  had  on  this  coast,  north 
of  Cape  Voltas.  But  this  is  an  error ;  as  any  quantity  can  be  had  in 
Voltas  Bay,  in  the  rainy  season,  without  the  trouble  of  searching  for  it 
under  ground.  But  by  digging,  fresh  water  may  be  had  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  head  of  the  bay,  where  the 
landing  is  very  safe  and  convenient,  sheltered  by  two  small  islands 
lying  close  to  the  beach,  inside  of  which  the  water  is  perfectly  smooth. 
This  is  also  a  fine  place  to  procure  bullocks'  hides,  fox-skins,  leopard- 
skins,  ostrich  feathers,  and  many  other  valuable  articles. 

For  the  lucrative  business  of  "jerking  beef,"  there  is  not  a  more 
eligible  situation  on  the  whole  surface  of  tlie  globe  ;  as  any  number 
of  bullocks,  in  the  finest  order,  may  be  purchased  at  fifty  cents  each, 
delivered  on  the  beach ;  and  for  ten  months  in  the  year  there  is  little 
or  no  rain.  By  penetrating  the  interior  forty  or  fifty  miles  from  the 
coast,  which  may  be  done  with  perfect  safety,  and  without  the  slightest 
personal  risk,  thousands  of  fine  fat  cattle  may  be  purchased  for  as 
many  toys,  and  the  bargain  consummated  under  the  guns  of  your  vessel. 
The  natives  are  honest  and  inofiensive  ;  being  in  a  state  of  nature,  and 
having  never  studied  the  arts  of  deceitful  villany  which  are  practised 
80  successfully  by  the  children  of  civilization. 

Should  any  citizen  feel  disposed  to  fit  out  a  vessel  for  the  coast  of 
Africa,  to  procure  a  cargo  of  hides  and  other  valuable  articles,  I  will 
cheerfully  communicate  every  necessary  information  on  the  subject ; 
a  subject  which  I  have  deeply  investigated,  and  can  speak  of  from 
practical  knowledge.  Such  a  voyage  could  not  fail  of  being  highly 
profitable  to  the  owners  and  every  one  concerned.  Had  I  not  subse- 
quently made  more  valuable  discoveries  in  the  Pacific,  and  were  I  not 
bound  by  every  tie  of  humanity,  as  well  as  justice  and  honour,  to 
restore  my  two  captives  to  their  native  country,  to  which  they  are  very 
anxious  to  retmrn,  I  would  myself  be  the  first  to  penetrate  the  interior 
of  Africa ;  witli  full  confidence  that  in  twelve  months  after  I  arrived 
©n  the  coast,  I   could   purchase,  and  have  driven  to  the  seacoast^ 


288  ORANGE  RIVER.  [1828. 

more  tlian  fifty  thousand  bullocks,  besides  the  other  valuable  articles 
common  to  that  section  of  the  country. 

Tills  important  discovery  I  laid  before  my  owners,  on  my  return  to 
New-York  from  tliis  present  voyage  ;  but  they  thought  me  enthusiastic, 
the  project  cliimerical,  and  refused  to  li-sten  to  it.  I  did  not  urge  the 
subject,  as  I  had  a  desire  to  seek  for  discoveries  in  another  quarter; 
whicli,  as  tlie  seiiucl  will  show,  proved  to  be  a  losing  speculation  for 
all  i-onccrncd  ;  to  mc  in  particular,  as  I  not  only  lOst  my  property,  but 
also  my  friends — a  very  natural  consequence.  Had  I  been  permitted 
to  return  to  Africa,  the  Antarctic  would  by  this  time  have  become  as 
famous 

"As  Jason's  Argo,  which  conveyed  to  Greece 
The  woahhy  purchuse  of  the  eolden  flecco  ;"' 

nor  should  I  have  been  fated  to  sustain  an  unecjual  combat  M'ith  the 
giants  of  prejudice  and  the  hydras  of  malice  and  jealousy. 

Scptemhfr  18///. — After  taking  on  board  a  sufhcient  quantity  of  wood 
in  four  hours,  we  left  Cape  Voltas,  on  Thursday,  the  18th,  and  steered 
to  the  north,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  tlie  south,  and  fair  weather.  At 
3,  P.  M.,  we  reached  the  entrance  of  dJariep  or  Orange  River,  between 
Avhich  and  Voltas  Bay,  on  the  scacoast,  the  land  is  very  low,  sandy, 
barren,  and  d(>solate.  It  retains  this  appearance  for  some  distance 
from  the  shore  ;  but  after  running  back  six  or  eight  miles,  it  begins  to 
swell  into  hills,  and  still  farther  back  it  rises  into  lofty  mountains, 
which  stand  each  side  of  the  river,  on  the  banks  of  which  are  a  few 
Hottentot  villages.  The  wealth  of  the  inhabitants  consists  of  herds  of 
cattle  and  Hocks  of  sheep. 

Orange  River,  though  quite  extensive  in  its  course,  is,  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  dry  season,  nearly  closed  at  its  entrance,  and  the  water 
cnntinucs  shallow  four  or  live  miles  westward  of  the  river's  mouth. 
On  this  slioal  the  sea  breaks  every  full  and  change  of  the  moon,  as 
there  is  a  heavy  swell  setting  in  from  the  west  at  that  time.  There 
are  many  valuable  minerals  and  precious  stones  found  in  and  about 
this  river,  and  1  have  found  a  few  gTains  of  gold-dust  at  the  river's 
mouth.  Copper  and  lead  ore  have  been  found  here,  and  I  have  no  doubt 
that  there  are  many  valuable  mines  in  this  part  of  the  country.  Not- 
■wiihblanding  the  steril  aspect  of  the  seaboard,  twenty-five  miles  up 
the  river  the  soil  is  good,  and  the  country  well  wooded.  A  few  miles 
larthcr  east  are  extensive  plains,  on  which  I  have  seen  more  than 
three  thousand  head  of  cattle,  equal  to  any  in  the  world.  Here  the 
soil  is  rich,  and  would  produce  any  thing  that  might  be  put  into  the 
ground.  Some  of  the  forests  are  of  very  handsome  growth,  and  the 
(litferent  varieties  of  plants  are  very  numerous.  I  have  bought  bullocks 
here  for  one  pound  of  powder  each,  and  ostrich  feathers  at  a  propor- 
tionably  low  price. 

Persons  wishing  to  have  communication  with  this  river  must  land  at 
A'oltas  IJav,  and  Malk  to  the  banks  of  Oranoe,  as  there  is  no  landhiff 
at  or  near  its  mouth,  any  season  of  the  year,  on  account  of  the  con- 
tinual heavy  surf  that  is  always  rolling  in  upon  this  coast  from  the 
westward.     Tliis    river   rises    far  in    the   interior,  and  may   be  said 


Sept.]  ORANGE  RIVER— ELIZABETH  BAY.  28Q 

to  commence  at  Campbell's  Dorp,  six  hundred  miles  directly  east  from 
its  mouth ;  beinjr  formed  there  by  the  coailuence  of  another,  called 
Yellow  River,  which  rises  among  mountains  nearly  four  hundred  miles 
to  the  north-east  of  Campbell's  Dorp,  and  eight  hundred  from  the  moutli 
of  the  Orange.  Two  or  three  other  rivers  also  add  their  waters  to  the 
Oransfe. 

Taking  our  leave  of  Orange  River,  we  continued  examining  the  coast 
to  the  north-north-west  along  a  straight  shore,  clear  of  dangers,  until 
we  came  to  what  is  called  Angras  Juntas  Bay,  said  to  have  an  island 
at  its  entrance,  and  a  bay  or  lagoon  within  the  island,  running  six 
leagues  north  and  south,  completely  sheltered  from  all  winds.  This 
[  know  is  not  the  case,  as  I  have  examined  every  rod  of  this  coast 
with  my  boats,  in  broad  daylight,  close  to  the  outer  edge  of  the  surf 
on  the  beach.  At  the  place  called  Angras  Juntas  tliere  is  a  small 
bend  in  the  land,  running  in  to  the  eastward  about  a  mile,  the  width 
of  its  mouth  being  a  mile  and  a  half.  Here  ships  may  find  tolerable 
shelter,  with  southerly  winds,  and  it  is  likewise  a  convenient  place  to 
have  communication  with  the  Hottentots,  some  of  whom  reside  about 
live  miles  to  the  north-east  of  this  bay.  There  is  a  small  rock  that 
stands  to  the  south-west  of  the  south  point  about  two  miles,  with  deep 
water  all  around  it. 

At  the  entrance  of  this  bay  there  is  fourteen  fathoms  of  water,  which 
gradually  lessens  to  five  fathoms,  al^out  half  a  mile  from  the  bottom 
of  the  bay,  sandy  bottom.  But  the  best  anchorage  is  under  the  south 
shore,  one-fourih  of  a  mile  from  the  point  to  the  south-west,  in  six 
fathoms,  sandy  ground.  This  place  is  situated  in  latitude  27°  47'  S., 
long.  15°  50'  E. 

September  20th. — We  continued  steering  to  the  north  and  west, 
rritically  examining  every  mile  of  the  coast,  until  Saturday,  the  20th, 
when  we  arrived  at  Whale  Bay,  which  is  in  latitude  27°  23'  S.  This 
bay  is  unsafe  for  ships  to  anchor  in,  on  account  of  the  shoal  water  in 
every  part  of  it ;  but  they  may  anchor  outside  of  two  small  islands 
which  front  the  baj^  lying  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,  on  which  may 
be  taken  a  few  fur-seal,  in  the  proper  season.  The  landing  on  the 
south  side  of  the  bay  is  good,  and  an  eligible  place  for  trading  with  the 
Hottentots,  who  inhabit  a  small  village  which  stands  in  a  pleasant  valley, 
ten  miles  inland.  They  frequently  stray  down  to  this  bay  in  search 
of  shellfi.sh,  and  will  dispose  of  bullocks,  sheep,  and  ostrich  feathers 
on  very  favourable  terms.  I  can  recommend  these  men  for  trusty 
guides  for  any  person  that  may  wish  to  take  an  excursion  into  the 
interior.  The  coast  along  here  is  nothing  but  one  sandy  desert,  with 
the  exception  of  a  few  rocky  hills  composed  of  volcanic  substances. 

From  this  place  we  followed  the  coast  to  Elizabeth  Bay,  which  is 
fronted  by  Possession  Island.  The  centre  of  the  island  is  in  latitude 
26°  57'  S.,  long.  15°  8'  E.  Between  this  place  and  Cape  Voltas  there 
are  many  small  islets  and  reefs,  lying  half  a  mile  from  the  shore ;  but 
there  are  no  dangers  at  double  that  distance  from  the  land  ;  and  ships, 
if  becalmed,  may  anchor  five  miles  from  the  coast,  in  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  fathoms,  sandy  bottom.  These  soundings  extend  along  the 
whole  range  of  coast. 

T 


*290  ELIZABETH  BAY— POSSESSION  ISLAND.  [1828. 

Possession  Island  is  three  miles  in  length,  anil  near  one  mile  in  width  ; 
-forming,  on  the  east  side,  a  concave  curvature,  in  which  ships  will  find 
good  anchorage  in  from  seven  to  four  fathoms,  sandy  bottom,  and 
smooth  water.  The  landing  is  also  good  in  front  of  the  anchorage, 
near  the  centre  of  the  island,  half  a  mile  from  the  beach.  At  this  place, 
in  the  months  of  August,  September,  and  October,  any  quantity  of  pen- 
•guins'  eggs  may  be  collected  ;  and  fisli  of  an  excellent  quality  may  be 
caught  in  great  abimdance  about  the  shores. 

On  the  surface  of  this  island  I  saw  the  effects  of  a  pestilence  or 
plague,  which  had  visited  the  amphibious  inhabitants  of  the  ocean  with 
as  much  malignancy  as  the  Asiatic  cholera  has  the  bipeds  of  the  land. 
The  whole  island  was  literally  covered  with  the  carcasses  of  fur-seal, 
■with  their  skins  still  on  them.  They  appeared  to  have  been  dead 
about  five  years,  and  it  was  evident  that  they  had  all  met  their  fate 
about  the  same  period.  I  should  judge,  from  the  immense  multitude 
of  bones  and  carcasses,  that  not  less  than  half  a  million  had  perished 
here  at  once,  and  that  they  had  all  fallen  victims  to  some  mysterious 

•disease  or  plague. 

There  are  a  few  sunken  rocks  lying  off  the  south  point  of  the  island, 
about  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  on  which  the  sea  generally  breaks.  There 
is  also  a  reef  running  off'  the  north-east  end  of  the  island,  about  three 
miles,  on  which  the  breakers  are  frequently  very  heavy.  These  reefs 
both  incline  to  the  eastward,  which  promotes  the  smoothness  of  the 
■water  in  the  harbour.  Between  the  island  and  the  continent,  or  rather 
between  the  extreme  points  of  the  reefs  and  the  mainland,  the  channel 
is  three  miles  wide,  with  from  fifteen  to  ten  fathoms  of  v.-ater,  sandy 
bottom,  and  free  from  dangers.  Ships  intending  to  anchor  at  this 
island  while  the  south  winds  are  fresh  should  approach  the  anchorage 

Jrom  the  south,  and  leave  it  by  the  opposite  passage. 

A  Hottentot  village,  of  limited  dimensions  and  population,  is  situated 
about  twenty-five  miles  east-by-south  from  the  bottom  of  Elizabeth 
Bay  ;  and  another,  somewhat  larger,  will  be  found  on  an  east-by-north 
course,  fifteen  miles  farther  inland,  containing  about  seven  hundred  in- 
habitants. Between  this  village  and  the  seacoast  is  a  dreary  sandy 
waste,  destitute  of  water,  soil,  and  vegetation ;  with  the  exception  of  a 
jjkrsmall  valley,  in  which  there  are  several  fine  springs,  where  cattle  that 
are  driven  from  the  interior  may  renew  their  stock  of  fresh  water. 
Forty  miles  on  an  east-by-south  course  from  the  landing,  on  the  south 
part  of  the  bay,  are  several  small  villages,  inhabited  by  a  very  civil  in- 
offensive race  of  Hottentots,  who  raise  a  considerable  number  of  cattle 
and  sheep.  But  seventy -five  miles  farther  inland  the  cattle  and  sheep 
are  almost  innumerable,  and  may  be  purchased  at  a  very  low  rate  ;  say 
twenty-five  cents  per  bullock,  and  five  cents  for  sheep ;  besides  the 
skins  of  other  animals,  ostrich  feathers,  and  ivory.  At  that  distance 
the  land  is  very  fertile,  and  would  produce  any  thing  put  into  the 
soil. 

But  the  farther  you  advance  into  the  interior,  beyond  one  hundred 

.cind  twenty  miles,  the  larger  and   more  numerous  are  the  herds  of 

-cattle,  which  may  be  purchased  for  a  still  lower  price,  to  be  delivered 
and  paid  for  oa  the  seacoast.      There  is  no  more  danger  in  travelling 


Sept.]  ANGRA  PEQUENA.  291 

into  the  interior  of  this  part  of  Africa  than  there  is  in  travelling  from 
New- York  to  Boston ;  providing  the  travelling  party  take  no  arms 
with  them,  and  no  more  wearing-apparel  than  is  absolutely  necessary. 
On  all  my  excursions  into  the  interior  of  this  country  I  was  careful  to 
go  unarmed,  and  dressed  in  nothing  but  a  pair  of  duck  trousers  and  a 
duck  frock.  Thus  presenting  nothing  to  excite  their  cupidity,  I  was 
invariably  treated  by  the  natives  with  the  greatest  kindness  and  hospi- 
tality, as  they  would  freely  share  with  me  their  last  morsel  of  food.  I 
should  not  hesitate,  therefore,  to  travel  across  the  continent  of  Africa, 
if  suitable  encouragement  were  offered,  as  I  am  confident  that  the  en- 
terprise would  be  attended  with  no  personal  hazard  so  far  as  the  natives 
are  concerned. 

Sept.  24:th. — Seventeen  miles  to  the  northward  of  Possession  Island 
is  Angra  Pequena  Bay,  where  we  arrived  on  Wednesday,  the  24th. 
The  westernmost  point  on  the  south  side  of  this  bay  is  in  lat.  26^  39' 
south,  long.  15°  7'  30"  east.  This  is  a  high  bluff  point,  rendered  con- 
spicuous by  a  marble  cross  erected  on  the  summit  in  1480,  by  Bartholo- 
mew Diaz,  a  Portuguese  navigator.  This  monument  of  his  success- 
ful enterprise  along  the  coast  of  Africa  is  still  standing,  after  having 
braved  the  storms  and  heats  of  three  centuries  and  a  half.  About  four 
miles  eastward  of  this  cross  is  Angra  Point,  which  has  a  small 
rocky  reef,  lying  north-by-east,  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,  between 
which  and  the  point  there  are  five  fathoms  of  water.  But  I  should 
always  advise  strangers  to  pass  to  the  north  of  this  reef,  giving  it  a 
berth  of  half  a  mile.  After  passing  the  reef  you  will  open  a  lagoon 
running  in  to  the  southward,  between  four  and  five  miles,  the  entrance 
to  which  is  one  mile  and  a  half  wide ;  a  clear  passage,  with  seven 
fathoms  in  the  middle  of  it,  becoming  gradually  more  shallow  as  you 
approach  the  head  of  the  lagoon  or  either  shore.  After  advancing 
about  three  miles  up  this  lagoon,  you  will  find  four  fathoms  of  water, 
muddy  bottom,  and  here  is  the  best  anchorage  under  the  western  shore, 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  beach. 

Two  miles  east-by-north  from  Angra  Point,  and  due  east  of  the  reef 
just  mentioned,  are  two  small  islands,  about  one  mile  from  the  main- 
land, lying  parallel  with  the  coast,  which  runs  here  nearly  north  and 
south.  Neither  of  these  islands  exceeds  a  mile  in  length  ;  but  the 
southern  one  shelters  good  anchorage  in  five  fathoms  of  water,  clay 
bottom.  The  best  situation  to  anchor  in  on  the  east  side  of  the  south 
island  is  near  its  centre,  about  two  cables'  length  from  its  shore  ;  leav- 
ing a  single  rock,  that  lies  level  with  the  surface  of  the  water,  and 
nearly  mid-channel,  about  half  a  mile  to  the  north  of  the  passage. 
This  harbour  may  be  entered  and  left  v.ith  perfect  safety,  either  from 
the  north  or  soutli  end  of  the  island  ;  but  I  can  recommend  the  south- 
ern passage  as  being  the  most  easy,  and  entirely  clear  from  dangers 
twenty  fallioms  from  either  shore.  The  anchorage  under  the  northern 
island  is  unsafe,  there  being  several  sunken  rocks  between  it  and  the 
mainland,  which  do  not  always  show  themselves. 

These  two  islands  have  once  been  the  resort  of  immense  numbers 
of  fur-seal,  which  were  doubtless  destroyed  by  the  same  plague  which 
made  such  devastation  among  them  on  Possession  Island,  as  their  re- 

T3 


292  AXGRA  PEQUEXA.  []82&. 

jTiains  exhibited  the  same  appearance  in  both  cases.  Sliags  and  pen- 
guins had  now  taken  entire  possession  of  these  two  islands,  in  such 
jiumbers  that  ships  might  procure  any  quantity  of  their  eggs  in  the 
months  of  September,  October,  and  November;  and  have  them  entirely 
fresh,  by  clearing  out  the  old  from  the  nests,  and  gathering  the  new 
every  morning.  These  islands  present  the  appearance  of  volcanic 
productions  of  an  ancient  date,  as  do  also  some  of  the  mountains  in  the 
interior  of  the  mainland. 

Navigators  who  visit  this  coast  for  the  purpose  of  opening  a  trade 
with  the  natives  of  the  interior  should  make  Angi-a  Pequena  their 
principal  rendezvous  to  the  south.  By  travelling  forty  miles  due  east 
irom  the  sea,  they  will  come  to  fresh  water,  and  will  meet  with  Hot- 
tentots who  are  very  friendly,  and  may  be  trusted.  This  excursioi], 
however,  thus  far,  is  not  pleasant,  being  over  a  barren  sandy  desert ; 
but  every  mile  you  proceed  farther  the  prospect  brightens,  the  soil  be- 
comes rich  and  fertile,  and  the  country  abounds  with  all  the  produc- 
tions of  the  climate.  The  inhabitants  soon  become  numerous,  and  the 
grassy  plains  are  covered  with  immense  herds  of  fine  cattle.  The 
forests  remote  from  the  villages  are  the  hunting  grounds  of  the  natives, 
■where  they  kill  or  take  various  kinds  of  wild  beasts  for  their  valuable 
skins ;  such  as  leopards,  lions,  zebras,  gray  foxes,  &:c.,  together  with 
birds  of  a  beautiful  plumage.  Here  are  antelopes,  sheep,  and  ostriches 
in  abundance  ;  elephants,  jackals,  ant-bears,  porcupines,  hedgehogs, 
baboons,  apes,  monkeys,  &:c.  The  country  to  the  nortli-east  of  Angra 
Pequena  abounds  with  ores  and  minerals,  which,  together  with  ivory, 
ostrich  feathers,  and  other  valuable  articles,  can  be  had  low.  The 
bay  of  Angra  Pequena  affords  an  immense  quantity  of  excellent  fish, 
of  many  different  kinds,  which  may  be  caught  either  with  a  hook  and 
line  or  a  seine. 

Navigators  have  reported,  and  it  is  so  marked  on  maps  and  charts, 
that  this  region  of  the  western  coast  of  Africa  is  entirely  desti- 
tute of  freshwater  ;  and  that  none  is  to  be  found  between  the  sixteenth 
and  thirty-first  degrees  of  south  latitude.  This  idea  is  founded  in 
error  ;  for  I  have  found  many  places,  while  travelling  along  near  the 
seashore  on  this  coast,  where  freshwater  maybe  had  in  any  quantity 
by  digging  very  shallow  wells.  To  the  north  of  Angra  Pequen<i, 
about  ten  miles,  there  are  many  fine  springs  of  excellent  fresh  water, 
about  one  mile  from  the  seacoast,  where  any  quantity  of  tlie  pure 
limpid  element  can  be  obtained  for  a  dozen  ships  at  a  time.  The  naiads 
of  these  fountains  are  female  Hottentots,  svho,  like  the  damsels  of  Pa- 
dan-aram,  are  drawing  water  for  their  flocks.  They,  as  well  as  the 
other  sex,  are  very  friendly,  and  will  furnish  a  stranger  with  refresli- 
jiients,  and  the  most  trusty  guides,  if  he  wishes  to  penetrate  the  interior. 
,  1  have  experienced  their  fidelity  in  many  extensive  excursions ;  and 
therefore  speak  from  practical  knowledge.  Ten  or  twelve  families  are 
generally  near  each  of  those  springs. 

I  can  also  refute  another  erroneous  statement  respecting  this  coast.  It 
is  said  there  is  a  dangerous  shoal  lying  between  three  and  four  leagues 
to  the  west  of  Angra  Pequena,  in  lat.  26"^  35'  S.  But  I  can  assert,  with  the 
greatest  degree  of  confidence,  that  there  is  but  one  shoal  on  any  part 


Oct.]  ,  CHABOE  ISLA^'D.  293 

of  this  coast,  south  of  Spencer's  Bay,  that  lies  more  than  four  miles 
from  the  mainland ;  and  this  one  lies  north-north-west  from  Angra 
Pequena,  or  Santa  Cruz,  about  fifteen  miles. 

October  2d. — On  Thursday  we  got  under  way,  and  steered  to  the 
south,  to  examine  a  few  rocks  which  lie  about  one  mile  off-shore  from 
the  mainland,  and  nearly  half-way  between  Possession  Island  and 
Angra  Pequena,  or  Santa  Cruz.  These  rocks  are  small,  but  evidently 
of  volcanic  origin,  and  have  fine  anchorage  between  them  uid  the 
mainland,  in  five  fathoms  of  water,  sandy  bottom,  sheltered  from  all 
winds.  But  their  greatest  attraction  in  our  estimation  was  their  dense 
population  of  fur-seal,  with  which  they  were  literally  covered.  We 
of  course  secured  a  few  of  these  animals,  or  rather  a  few  of  their 
valuable  jackets.  In  going  into  the  anchorage  just  mentioned,  you 
pass  the  north  point  of  the  ledge,  leaving  the  rocks  on  your  right- 
hand  half  a  cable's  length  distant,  and  then  haul  immediately  round  to 
the  south,  and  anchor  abreast  of  the  middle  of  the  ledge,  about  mid- 
channel. 

October  6th. — From  this  anchorage  we  steered  once  more  to  the 
north,  and  passing  Angra  Pequena  we  arrived  at  Ichaboe  Island  on 
JMonday,  the  6th  of  October.  This  island,  which  is  about  one  mile  in 
circumference,  lies  eight  leagues  to  the  north  and  west  of  Angra  Pe- 
quena, and  not  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  shore.  On  the 
east  side  of  this  island  ships  may  anchor  in  perfect  safety,  m  five 
fathoms  of  v/ater,  sand  and  clay  bottom,  about  two  cables'  length  from 
its  shore.  The  safety  and  convenience  of  this  anchorage  are  owmg  to 
the  following  circumstances : — A  point  of  land  from  the  continent  ex- 
tends three  or  four  miles  into  the  sea,  to  the  south  of  the  island ;  and 
from  the  extremity  of  this  point  a  reef  puts  off  in  a  north-west  direc- 
tion, until  it  nearly  meets  a  reef  that  projects  from  the  west  side  of  the 
island.  Another  reef  puts  off  from  the  north-east  point  of  the  island; 
consequently  a  bay  is  formed,  in  w^hich  a  ship  might  lie  all  the  year 
round,  m  perfect  safety  and  smooth  water.  But  hi  coming  to  this  an- 
chorage care  should  always  be  taken  to  pass  round  the  north  end  of 
the  island,  giving  its  north-east  point  a  berth  of  half  a  mile,  which  will 
avoid  all  dangers.  In  working  into  this  harbour  the  shore  on  the  main 
may  be  approached  within  two  cables'  length. 

This  is  a  fine  place  for  making  captive  ihe  great  leviathan  of  the 
ocean,  the  right  whale,  great  numbers  of  which  strike  on  this  part  of 
the  coast  about  the  middle  of  June.  They  are  in  the  habit  of  playing- 
about  the  reefs  of  the  island,  and  that  which  runs  from  the  continental 
point  before  mentioned  ;  and  as  the  south  wind  generally  prevails,  there 
is  no  difficulty  in  getting  the  dead  whale  alongside  of  the  ship.  Scale- 
fish  may  be  caught  at  the  anchorage  with  hook  and  line ;  or  at  the 
bottom  of  the  bay  with  a  seine,  in  great  quantities.  An  abundance  of 
crawfish  may  also  be  caught  with  a  hoop-net,  all  around  the  island, 
within  fifty  fathoms  of  the  shore. 

Eggs  also  may  be  obtained  here  in  great  quantities.  In  the  months 
of  October  and  November  this  island  is  literally  covered  with  jackass- 
penguins  and  gannets,  wliich  convene  liere  for  tlie  purposes  of  laying 
and  incubation.     The  nests  of  tlie  gannets  are  formed  like  those  of 


294  ICHABOE  ISL.\XD— MERCURY  ISLAND.  [1828. 

tlie  albatross,  but  are  not  so  much  elevated ;  while  the  jackass-pen- 
guins lay  their  eggs  in  holes  in  the  ground,  from  twelve  to  thirty 
inches  in  depth,  which  they  guard  with  the  strictest  vigilance.  I  have 
seen  them  stand  at  the  entrance  of  these  holes  and  protect  their  eggs 
or  young  ones  with  the  most  resolute  perseverance,  until  they  were  re- 
moved by  superior  physical  strength.  They  frequently  lay  three  or 
four  eggs,  but  the  gannet  seldom  lays  more  than  two. 

This  island  is  formed  of  volcanic  materials,  and  its  shores  are  re- 
sorted to  by  multitudes  of  fur-seal ;  we  took  about  one  thousand 
of  their  skins  in  a  few  days.  The  surface  of  this  island  is  covered 
with  birds'  manure  to  the  depth  of  twenty-five  feet.  The  south-east 
part  of  the  bay,  on  the  mainland,  directly  opposite  the  island,  is  the 
finest  place  on  this  part  of  the  coast  for  jerking  beef,  it  being  only 
four  miles  from  a  Hottentot  village  and  the  springs  of  fresh  water 
before  mentioned,  which  will  supply  any  number  of  cattle.  Here 
also  I  travelled  into  the  interior  to  a  considerable  distance,  and  found 
that  the  farther  I  advanced  to  the  north-east,  the  more  numerous  were 
the  herds  of  cattle  and  flocks  of  sheep  ;  Mhile  the  skins  of  leopards, 
gray  foxes,  &c.  could  be  obtained  with  the  utmost  facility  ;  together 
with  ivor}',  ostrich  feathers,  and  other  valuable  products  of  the  country. 

October  20th. — Having  taken  as  many  fur-seal  skins  as  was  prac- 
ticable, we  weighed  anchor  on  Monday,  the  20th,  and  steered  to  the 
north,  carefully  examining  the  coast  for  fur-seal.  I  had  now  fully 
made  up  my  mind  that  a  series  of  voyages  to  this  coast  for  jerking 
heef,  and  trading  for  other  articles  with  the  natives,  would  prove  a 
most  brilliant  enterprise,  and  make  fortunes  for  all  concerned.  So 
fully  was  I  impressed  with  this  idea,  that  I  determined  to  propose  it 
to  my  employers  immediately  on  my  return,  not  doubting  for  a  mo- 
ment that  they  would  view  it  in  the  same  favourable  light.  In  the 
last  particular  I  found  myself  mistaken,  as  I  have  already  mentioned. 
But  it  really  appears  astonishing  to  me  that  some  men  of  capital  do 
not  see  the  golden  opportunity  at  a  single  glance,  and  seize  on  it  with 
avidity.  An  investment  of  thirty  thousand  dollars  only,  if  properly 
inanaged,  would  in  two  years  produce  a  profit  of  from  ten  to  fifteen 
hundred  per  cent. ! 

October  22d. — On  Wednesday,  the  22d  of  October,  we  anchored 
on  the  east  side  of  Mercury  Island,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  about 
two  cables'  length  from  the  island,  which  is  situated  in  latitude  25° 
42'  S.,  long.  14^  58'  E.  It  is  one  mile  in  circumference,  of  an  oblong 
shape,  lying  north  and  south,  and  is  three-quarters  of  a  mile  north 
from  the  south-west  point  of  Spencer's  Bay,  and  one  mile  and  a  half 
west  from  the  north-east  point  of  the  same  bay.  Both  passages  are 
easy,  and  free  from  dangers ;  and  the  best  anchorage  is  on  the  east 
side  of  the  island,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms  from  its  shores, 
in  five  fathoms  of  water,  sand  and  clay  bottom.  I  would  not  advise 
ships  to  anchor  to  the  south  side  of  the  bay,  as  a  heavy  westerly 
swell  heaves  into  it,  on  the  full  and  change  of  the  moon  ;  but  let  them 
anchor  close  under  the  island,  and  they  will  lie  perfectly  safe,  in 
smooth  water. 

The  south  point  of  Spencer's  Bay  presents  several  high  peaked 


Nov.]  SPENCER'S  BAY.  295 

rocks,  nearly  six  hundred  feet  perpendicular,  at  the  water's  edge; 
Whales  frequent  this  bay  in  considerable  numbers,  in  the  months  of 
July  and  August.  Seal  of  the  fur  kind  also  frequent  the  shores  of 
Mercury  Island,  while  its  summit  is  thickly  inhabited  by  penguins 
and  gannets,  during  their  laying  and  incubation  season.  The  shores 
and  surface  of  the  island  present  many  specimens  of  volcanic  pro- 
ductions, as  do  also  those  of  the  continent  in  this  vicinity,  extending 
some  distance  into  the  country. 

There  is  a  Hottentot  village  about  forty  miles  on  an  east-by-south 
course  from  the  head  of  the  bay,  containing  about  two  hundred  and 
fifty  inhabitants,  and  situated  in  a  fertile  valley,  watered  by  several 
springs  of  excellent  fresh  water.  There  are  also  four  refreshing 
springs  between  the  village  and  the  bay.  The  interior  of  the  country 
abounds  in  cattle,  sheep,  deer,  bucks,  wolves,  gray  foxes,  elephants, 
and  ostriches,  in  greater  numbers  than  it  does  farther  south ;  whicli 
may  be  had  for  any  price  you  please  to  give,  in  the  M'ay  of  barter ; 
for  money  would  be  of  no  more  use  to  them  than  an  equal  weight  of  sanc}^ 
would  be  to  us.  Offer  them  such  articles  as  their  circumstances 
require,  and  they  will  trade  in  the  most  liberal  and  honest  manner. 

I  am  aware  that  most  people  have  imbibed  the  mistaken  idea  that" 
these  natives  are  treacherous,  and  cruel,  and  bloodthirsty,  and  every 
thing  that  is  bad.  It  is  no  such  thing.  I  make  the  assertion  on  per-- 
sonal  experience  and  practical  knowledge.  There  is  no  more  danger  iir 
travelling  two  or  three  hundred  miles  in  the  interior  of  this  country 
for  the  purpose  of  purchasing  cargoes,  than  there  is  in  travelling 
among  our  own  Indians  in  the  state  of  New-York ;  provided  you' 
take  no  temptations  with  you,  and  no  other  arms  than  a  musket. 
Whatever  you  purchase  of  the  natives  is  sold  in  good  faith,  to  be 
paid  for  according  to  contract  on  the  delivery  of  the  articles  at  the 
beach,  and  not  before.  Under  this  arranorement,  thev  could  not  de- 
fraud  you,  were  they  so  disposed  ;  and  were  there  no  other  safeguard' 
for  your  person,  the  prospect  of  this  payment  would  be  amply  suffi- 
cient. But  their  natural  dispositions  are  friendly  and  humane  ;  and  if 
you  treat  them  with  kindness,  they  will  repay  your  favours  more  thaiF 
ten  to  one.  When  they  deliver  the  cattle  and  other  articles  at  the 
beach,  give  them  the  articles  in  return  for  which  they  stipulated,  and 
they  are  satisfied ;  but  I  would  recommend  a  little  extension  of  cour- 
tesy on  these  occasions,  by  presenting  their  chiefs  a  few  tasteful  trifles^ 
which  may  attract  their  attention.  Whatever  you  bestow  in  this  way,- 
will  not  be  thrown  away,  but  returned  to  you  sevenfold  in  some  other 
shape,  or  on  some  other  occasion. 

While  on  this  subject,  with  a  special  reference  to  the  purchase  of 
cattle  and  the  jerking  of  beef,  it  may  be  well  to  mention  that  there 
are  many  salt-springs  in  the  valleys  at  the  head  of  Spencer's  Bay, 
where  salt  might  be  manufactured  in  immense  quantities,  if  properly 
attended  to.  But  perhaps  it  would  be  full  as  cheap  to  bring  the 
article  from  the  Cape  Verd  Islands,  to  jerk  your  beef  and  cure  your 
hides ;  which  is  necessary  to  prevent  the  invasion  of  bugs  and  other 
insects. 

November  Gth, — After  taking  about  a  thousand  fur-seal  skins  from 


296  BIRD  ISLAND— ALLIGATOR  ROCKS.  [1828. 

Mercury  Island,  and  examining  the  interior  of  the  countr}*  at  a  great 
distance  inland,  we  got  under  way,  on  Thursday,  the  6ih  of  Novem- 
ber, and  steered  to  the  north,  for  Bird  Island,  where  we  arrived  on  the 
following  day. 

This  little  island,  which  is  not  more  than  the  fourth  of  a  mile  in 
circumference,  is  in  latitude  24°  38'  S.,  long.  14^  22'  E.,  and  about 
three  leagues  from  the  mainland.  A  reef  of  rocks  runs  off  from  it, 
in  a  south-west  direction,  about  five  miles,  on  which  the  sea  breaks  at 
times  very  heavily.  A  vast  number  of  right  whales  frequent  this 
reef  in  the  months  of  July  and  August ;  and  a  ship  may  lie  at  an- 
chor on  the  north  side  of  the  island,  in  ten  fathoms  of  water,  all  the 
whaling  season,  in  perfect  safety,  if  she  has  chain  cables.  This 
island  is  resorted  to  by  seal,  gannets,  and  penguins  ;  and  we  took 
here  the  skins  of  fourteen  hundred  fur-seal  at  one  time,  although  the 
landing  w^as  very  bad.  The  passage  between  the  island  and  the  con- 
tinent is  about  nine  miles  in  width,  free  from  hidden  dangers,  with  a 
depth  of  water  from  twenty  to  ten  fathoms,  near  the  mainland. 

The  Alligator  Rocks,  as  laid  down  on  the  chart,  I  could  not  find, 
after  two  days  spent  in  the  search.  I  therefore  conclude  that  there 
is  no  such  reef,  but  that  Bird  Island  has  been  seen  in  a  haze,  and 
mistaken  for  a^  danger  which  does  not  actually  exist.  The  extreme 
haziness  of  the  w^eather  peculiar  to  tliis  coast  might  very  easily  have 
deceived  Captain  Wood,  of  his  Britannic  majesty's  ship  Garland, 
when  he  thought  he  had  discovered  a  reef  here,  in  1798 ;  for  I  have 
frequently  been  running  along  this  coast,  not  more  than  one  league 
from  the  land,  when  the  sand-hills  which  line  this  part  of  the  coast 
have  appeared  to  be  five  or  six  leagues  from  the  vessel. 

I  have  no  doubt  that  Bird  Island  is  the  eflect  of  some  mighty  con- 
vulsion of  nature,  which  has  piled  together  in  an  irregular  form  loose 
blocks  of  stone,  basalt,  lava,  and  other  volcanic  productions.  The 
waters  around  its  shores,  however,  abound  with  many  kinds  of  excel- 
lent scale-fish,  which  may  be  caught  with  hook  and  line  in  great 
quantities.  A  few  turtle,  also,  may  be  found  on  a  small  sandy  beacli 
on  the  east  side  of  the  island. 

November  \bth, — This  was  William  Ogden's  birth-day,  and  the 
termination  of  his  minority.  There  w^as  a  melancholy  interest  that 
hung  about  this  young  man,  not  often  noticed  among  the  rough 
sons  of  Neptune.  Though  foremost  in  the  discharge  of  active  and 
hazardous  duties,  he  seemed  to  shrink  within  himself  the  moment 
there  was  no  further  demand  for  his  exertions.  When  rallied  on  his 
abstraction,  he  would  by  a  sudden  effort  rouse  himself  to  cheerfulness, 
and  even  gayety ;  but  a  cloud  would  soon  come  over  the  sunshine  of 
his  countenance.  Those  who  attributed  these  changes  of  weather  to 
some  affair  of  the  heart  were  not  a  thousand  leagues  off  their  reck- 
oning, as  I  afterward  ascertained. 

November  I6th. — On  Sunday,  the  16th  of  November,  we  left  Bird 
Island,  and  continued  our  examination  of  the  coast  to  the  northward, 
with  a  gentle  breeze  from  south-by-wesi,  and  fair  weather:   and, 

November  I8th. — On  Tuesday,  the  iSth,  we  arrived  at  the  moutli 
of  what  is  called  Sandwich  Harbour,  said  to  have  three  fathoms  of 


j^ov.]  SANDWICH  HARBOUR— WALWICH  BAY.  297 

water  in  its  channel  of  entrance.  Although  we  found  only  eleven 
feet  at  high-water  in  this  channel,  I  have  no  doubt  that  there  was 
a  time,  some  years  back,  when  its  depth  was  full  three  fathoms, 
and  that  it  has  been  filled  up  by  drifts  of  sand,  the  movements  of 
which  along  this  coast  forcibly  reminded  me  of  the  snow-drifts  of 
my  native  country  ;  every  fresh  southerly  wind  forming  new  sand- 
hills, exactly  as  new  snow-banks  are  formed  at  home,  by  a  fine,  clear 
cold  north-wester. 

This  lagoon  runs  into  the  southward,  about  two  leagues,  with  seven, 
five,  three,  and  two  fathoms,  nearly  all  over  it.  It  is  formed  on  tlie 
east  by  a  high  white  bluff  sand-hill ;  and  on  the  west  by  a  low 
sandy  peninsula  nearly  level  with  the  sea ;  with  shoal  water  on  the 
seaboard  side  for  more  than  a  mile  to  seaward.  The  entrance  of  the 
lagoon  is  very  narrow,  being  not  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide, 
and  formed  by  two  low  sandy  points,  situated  in  latitude  23°  35'  S., 
long.  14°  28'  E.     Variation  per  azimuth  in  1828,  23°  15'  westerly. 

Perhaps  there  is  not  a  finer  place  on  the  whole  coast  than  this  for 
taking  fish  with  seines.  Many  diff*erent  kinds  of  fish  resort  to  this 
lagoon ;  one  of  which  bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  our  "  streaked 
bass  ;"  and  is  as  fat  and  delicate-flavoured  fish  as  our  salmon.  There 
are  many  other  sorts,  equally  good,  but  of  a  smaller  size.  Many 
cargoes  of  fish  might  be  taken  from  this  lagoon  in  a  short  time ;  and 
they  would  sell  for  a  good  price  at  St.  Helena,  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
Isle  of  France,  or  the  Isle  of  Bourbon.  Green  turtle  also  visit  the 
sandy  beaches  for  the  usual  purposes. 

November  22d. — We  left  Ponta  dos  Ilhoes,  or  Sandwich  Harbour, 
on  Thursday,  the  20th,  and  steered  to  the  northward,  examining  the 
coast  in  search  of  fur-seal;  and  on  Saturday,  the  22d,  ^ve  arrived  at 
Walwich  Bay,  the  west  point  of  which  is  very  low,  and  lies  in  lati- 
tude 22°  53'  S.,  long.  14°  24'  E.  The  entrance  to  the  bay  is  one 
league  broad,  running  to  the  south  two  leagues ;  one  league  and  a 
half  of  which  is  navigable,  and  the  depth  of  water  in  going  in  is 
from  twelve  fathoms  to  three,  mud  and  clay  bottom  near  the  head  of 
the  bay. 

The  east  side  of  this  bay  is  formed  by  moderately  elevated  sand- 
hills, near  the  seashore,  and  the  west  side  is  formed  by  a  very  low 
sandy  peninsula,  not  more  than  fifteen  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea 
at  any  place.  The  isthmus  is  very  narrow,  it  being  not  more  than 
twenty  rods  from  the  head  of  the  bay  to  the  seashore.  The  penin- 
sula, however,  is  from  one  to  three  miles  in  width.  In  entering  this 
bay,  it  is  necessary  to  give  the  west  point  a  good  berth,  of  nearly  half 
a  mile,  on  account  of  a  sand-bank  that  runs  ofi'  from  it,  in  a  north- 
north-east  direction  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  on  which  there  is  only 
six  feet  of  water  at  low  tide.  After  doubling  this  point,  in  advancing 
up  the  bay,  it  is  proper  to  give  the  western  shore  a  berth  of  one-fourth 
of  a  mile ;  taking  care  not  to  approach  to  it  any  nearer,  as  the  water 
becomes  shallow  very  suddenly,  from  five  fathoms  to  two,  and  even  to 
four  feet,  at  low  water.  This  is  a  mud  bank,  which  stretches  all  along 
the  western  and  southern  shore  of  this  bay ;  but  the  eastern  shore  is 
bold  one  cable's  length  from  the  beach,  nearly  to  the  head  of  the  bay. 


298  •  WALWICH  BAY.  [1828. 

This  bay  and  its  vicinity,  in  the  months  of  August  and  September, 
are  visited  by  great  numbers  of  right  whales,  which  resort  thither  for 
the  purpose  of  bringing  forth  their  young.  Fish  also,  of  various 
kinds,  and  in  great  abundance,  may  be  caught  here  with  a  seine; 
but  it  is  difficult  to  haul  the  seine  on  shore  in  any  part  of  the  bay 
excepting  the  eastern  shore,  on  account  of  the  mud  flats.  Ships 
visiting  this  bay  for  the  purpose  of  taking  whales,  in  the  months 
before  named,  should  anchor  about  half  a  mile  within  the  bay, 
under  the  western  shore,  in  five  fathoms  of  water,  muddy  bottom. 
In  this  situation  they  will  be  enabled  to  see  whales  from  the  mast- 
head, outside  of  the  bay  beyond  the  peninsula ;  and  at  the  same 
time  lie  in  safety,  as  northerly  winds  never  blow  here  more  than  a 
royal  breeze,  and  that  for  a  few  hours  only.  They  will  also  gain 
much  time,  and  save  much  labour,  in  getting  the  whales  along- 
side the  ship  ;  as  the  wind  blows  nearly  all  the  time  from  the  south  ; 
and  often,  in  the  afternoon,  a  single-reef  breeze.  But  it  is  generally 
calm  at  night,  and  in  the  fore-part  of  the  day.  The  water  is  entirely 
smooth  all  over  the  bay,  and  consequently  it  is  a  safe  as  Well  as  a 
spacious  harbour  at  any  season  of  the  year. 

The  interior  of  the  country  to  the  eastward  of  this  bay  presents  a 
dreary  range  of  desert  sandy  mountains  and  valleys,  entirely  destitute 
of  soil,  or  vegetation  of  any  kind,  for  twenty  or  twenty-five  miles  inland, 
with  the  exception  of  a  few  valleys  that  lie  to  the  east-south-east  and 
south-east  of  the  head  of  the  bay,  in  which  are  a  few  Hottentot  villages, 
with  small  herds  of  cattle  and  sheep,  that  feed  on  such  coarse  grass 
and  shrubbery  as  they  can  pick  up. 

About  three  miles  from  the  south-east  part  of  the  bay,  on  a  south- 
east-by-east course,  is  a  small  village,  where  fresh  water  may  be  had 
from  many  springs  in  the  valley.  This  water  possesses  a  peculiar 
flavour,  not  unlike  sassafras  tea,  but  it  is  not  in  the  least  brackish. 
The  village  contains  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  inhabitants,  who  often 
visit  the  bay  for  the  purpose  of  fishing.  I  have  frequently  had  them 
on  board  the  vessel,  and  have  purchased  from  them  cattle  and  sheep, 
which  were  in  fine  order.  I  uniformly  found  them  to  be  a  very  friendly, 
harmless,  inoffensive  people,  but  very  indolent  and  filthy,  and  some- 
what given  to  thieving:. 

Their  tents  or  wigwams  resemble  those  I  have  seen  near  the  Strait 
of  Magellan,  and  are  sufficiently  capacious  to  accommodate  two  or 
three  persons.  A  number  of  poles  are  stuck  in  the  ground,  in  a  cir- 
cular form,  the  tops  of  which  are  fastened  together  in  a  point  by  a 
leather  thong.  Over  the  summit  of  this  conic  frame  is  thrown  a  bul- 
lock's hide,  to  which  others  are  attached,  until  the  simple  habitation  is 
completely  protected  from  the  weather.  Their  clothing  is  made  of  the 
skins  of  the  gray  fox,  the  deer,  the  leopard,  &c.,  sewed  together  with 
the  sinews  of  the  animals,  in  the  form  of  a  blanket,  which  they  throvjr 
over  the  shoulders,  with  the  hair-side  next  to  their  bodies,  being  tied 
around  the  neck,  and  hanging  down  to  the  feet.  Both  sexes  dress  in 
the  same  manner,  the  female  being  distinguished  only  by  the  profu- 
sion of  her  ornaments  :  these  consist  of  shells,  bones,  and  minerals 
of  different  kinds,  and  are  worn  about  the  neck  and  wrists ;  but  the 
men  have  nothing  of  the  kind. 


Nov.]  HOTTENTOT  EPICURES.  299 

Though  the  sole  wealth  of  this  people  consists  of  cattle  and  sheep, 
they  derive  much  of  their  sustenance  from  the  ocean.  Their  imple- 
ments for  fishing  and  hunting  are  the  spear  and  the  bow ;  the  former 
is  made  of  a  heavy  hard  wood,  and  is  generally  about  sixteen  feet  in 
.  length :  this  wood  resembles  our  yellow  ebony,  but  the  grain  is  not 
quite  so  line.  Their  bows  are  made  of  the  same  kind  of  wood,  and 
measure  about  live  feet  in  length,  being  two  inches  wide  in  the  centre. 
The  arrows  are  of  reed,  about  three  feet  long,  and  pointed  with  hard 
M'ood  and  flint.  Both  sexes  are  very  expert  with  these  weapons.  I 
have  frequently  seen  them  shoot  gulls  on  the  wing  at  fifty  yards'  dis- 
tance ;  and  they  seldom  fail  of  placing  the  arrow  in  the  body  of  the 
bird.  They  are  equally  expert  with  the  spear  in  catching  fish, — fre- 
quently striking  one  of  seven  to  ten  pounds'  weight  at  the  distance  of 
twenty-five  to  thirty  yards.  Their  fishing  excursions  generally  detain 
ihem  from  home  three  or  four  days :  they  salt  all  the  fish  which  they 
take  over  and  above  what  they  consume  on  the  spot,  which  they  al- 
ways eat  raw,  and  the  small  ones  are  devoured  without  even  divesting 
them  of  their  entrails.  They  procure  their  salt  from  the  springs  at  the 
head  of  the  bay. 

In  appeasing  the  cravings  of  hunger  these  people  are,  in  fact,  hor- 
ribly disgusting  to  a  civilized  person, — being  actually  fonder  of  the 
entrails  of  cattle  and  sheep  than  of  any  other  part.  On  my  killing 
some  of  these  animals  on  the  beach  for  the  use  of  our  crew,  the  na- 
tives devoured  the  entrails  raw,  before  they  were  cold.  I  offered  them 
some  of  the  beef,  but  they  refused  it,  and  gave  me  to  understand  that 
the  entrails  were  the  best  part  of  the  creature  in  their  estimation.  In 
eating  eggs,  their  fastidious  delicacy  is  even  more  conspicuous ;  for 
they  will  not  touch  one  until  incubation  is  nearly  perfected,  protesting 
that  fresh  eggs  are  not  fit  for  food.  At  their  villages  I  observed  that 
they  roasted  their  beef,  as  they  did  also  the  flesh  of  wild  beasts.  The 
entrails,  however,  were  seldom  cooked,  as  the  luxurious  epicures  pre- 
ferred them  warm  from  the  animal. 

When  they  have  been  successful  in  taking  a  great  number  of  oceanie 
birds,  which  is  often  the  case  in  the  laying  season,  they  bury  them  in 
the  sand,  with  their  entrails  in  them,  until  they  become  quite  green. 
This  takes  all  the  fishy  taste  from  them,  and  they  become  very  tender. 
They  then  take  out  the  entrails,  skin  the  birds,  and  dry  their  bodies  in 
the  sun,  which  will  so  effectually  cure  them  in  forty-eight  hours,  that 
they  may  be  laid  away  for  twelve  months  without  receiving  any  injury^ 
Indeed,  such  is  the  purity  of  the  air  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  that  I 
have  had  a  quarter  of  fresh  beef,  weighing  two  hundred  weight,  hang- 
ing in  the  rigging  until  it  became  perfectly  dry,  without  becoming- 
tainted  in  the  sliorhtest  degree,  even  next  to  the  bone.  What  stronger 
evidence  need  be  adduced  to  prove  the  excellence  of  this  location  for 
jerking  beef?  The  atmosphere  is  pure,  warm,  and  dry;  and  for  ten 
months  of  the  year  there  is  scarcely  a  drop  of  rain.  Very  little  falls 
during  tlie  other  two  months. 


300  EXCURSION  INTO  THE  INTERIOR.  [1828. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Excursion  into  the  Interior — Description  of  the  Natives — Face  of  the  Countr}' — 
Natural  Productions — fSudden  and  transitory  Vegetation — Droves  of  Elephants 
— Return  to  the  Vessel — Sail  from  VValwich  Bay — Arrive  at  Mercury  Island — 
A  most  afllicting  Disaster,  in  the  Loss  of  Ogden — Tribute  to  his  Memory — Ar- 
rive at  Point  St.  Helen — AVreck  of  tho  English  Brig  Columbine — An  Offer  to 
save  her  Cargo  rejected — Arrive  at  Table  Bay — Description  of  the  Place — Sail- 
ing Directions — Phenomenon  of  •  the  Tablecloth — Sail  from  Table  Bay,  and 
again  steer  to  the  North. 

As  the  season  was  not  yet  sufficiently  advanced  for  the  seals  to  come 
lip  in  their  usual  numbers  on  the  islands  and  rocks  to  the  south  of  our 
present  position,  or  between  Walwich  Bay  and  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
I  determined  to  improve  the  interim  by  making  a  deep  excursion  into 
the  interior  of  the  country,  in  order  to  acquire  all  the  information  that 
could  be  obtained  respecting  the  feasibility  of  my  favourite  project.  In 
pursuance  of  this  object,  I  proceeded  from  the  head  of  the  bay,  in  the 
direction  of  east-south-east,  to  the  distance  of  nearly  one  hundred  and 
jifty  miles ;  occasionally  falling  in  with  several  different  tribes  of  the 
natives,  who  all  treated  me  M'ith  marked  kindness  and  hospitality, 
evincing  a  willingness  to  share  with  me  ever}'  thing  they  had.  Some 
of  their  principal  men  volunteered  to  accompany  me  as  guides  and 
companions  from  one  village  to  another,  and  furnished  me  with  a  tame 
bullock  to  ride  on,  after  the  fashion  of  the  country.  This  animal  was 
changed  for  a  fresh  one  every  fifteen  or  twenty  miles. 

From  the  many  deserted  villages  which  we  passed,  it  would  appear 
that  these  people  shift  their  ground  ;  and  when  the  pasturage  becomes 
exhausted  in  one  valley,  conduct  their  flocks  and  herds  to  another,  by 
which  means  their  cattle  and  sheep  are  kept  in  such  excellent  order 
for  the  market.  Fifty  miles  from  the  seashore,  the  land  becomes  very 
rich,  and  the  grazing  fields  or  plains  are  covered  with  heavy  grass,  of 
a  fine  soft  fibre.  I  think  I  speak  within  bounds  in  saying,  that  some 
of  these  valleys  contain  from  five  to  ten  thousand  head  of  cattle,  all 
perfectly  tame,  "  sleek  and  well  favoured,"  besides  three  times  that 
number  of  sheep.  And  there  are  hundreds  of  valleys  between  the  four- 
teenth and  twenty-fourth  degrees  of  south  latitude  containing  immense 
Avealth  in  other  things,  as  well  as  herds  of  cattle,  most  of  which  may 
be  purchased  at  a  very  low  price,  and  paid  for  in  the  manufactures  of 
our  own  country. 

The  face  of  the  country  here  is  much  diversified,  and  abounds  with 
limestone,  without  petrifactions ;  clay,  slate,  sandstone,  quartz-rock, 
granite,  k.c.  In  the  hills  are  vast  bodies  of  limestone,  lying  in  hori- 
zontal strata  upon  granite  and  slate.  In  the  valleys,  and  on  the  sum- 
mits of  some  of  the  hills,  not  more  than  fifty  miles  from  the  seashrre, 
are  extensive  beds  of  coral,  the  most  elevated  of  which  is  at  least  seven 


Nov.]  CORAL  ON  LAND.  301 

or  eight  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  On  some  of  these 
summits  the  coral  is  entirely  in  its  original  state,  standing  exactly  as 
it  does  in  the  coral  beds  which  are  seen  beneath  tlie  surface  of  the 
*  sea.  1  found  this  submarine  production  to  be  friable  in  various  de- 
grees ;  the  extremities  of  some  of  the  branches,  being  from  three  to 
four  feet  above  the  sand,  were  easily  reduced  to  powder ;  while  those 
that  were  in  the  valleys,  or  near  the  surface  of  the  sand,  required  some 
force  to  break  them  from  the  rocks  in  which  they  appeared  to  be 
rooted. 

I  have  frequently  seen  coral  on  land,  a  mile  or  two  from  the  sea- 
shore, but  never  so  far  from  the  ocean,  or  at  so  great  an  elevation,  as 
in  the  present  instance,  nor  in  the  same  state  of  perfection.  The  ques- 
tion naturally  arises,  how  came  it  here,  unless  this  part  of  the  conti- 
nent once  formed  part  of  the  ocean's  bed  ?  If  so,  at  what  period  of 
time  did  it  emerge  from  the  watery  element  ?  Can  philosophy  answer 
these  questions  1 

Perhaps  every  reader  is  not  aware  that  coral  is  an  animal  production. 
It  was  formerly  supposed  to  be  of  a  vegetable  nature,  but  is  now  found 
to  be  composed  of  what  men  of  science  term  a  "  congeries  of  animals, 
endued  with  the  faculty  of  moving  spontaneously."  Coral  is,  in  fact, 
a  mass  of  minute  animals  adhering  tofjether  in  the  form  of  veo^etable 
branches  ;  taking  root  like  plants,  and  growing  up  in  stems.  They  are 
dijflerent  from  plants,  however,  inasmuch  as  they  are  furnished  with 
sensation  and  spontaneous  motion ;  and  they  differ  from  other  animals 
in  being  destitute  of  blood-vessels,  vertebrae,  spinal  marrow,  and  con- 
necting muscles  and  limbs  for  locomotion.  They  are  distinguished  by 
the  form  of  their  branches,  and  are  found  in  the  ocean  adhering  to 
stones,  bones,  shells,  &;c.  The  islands  in  the  South  Sea  are  mostly 
coral  rocks  covered  with  earth.  The  coral  animals  begin  their  labours 
on  the  summits  of  submarine  mountains,  and  work  up  to  the  surface. 

The  immense  numbers  of  this  class  of  zoophytes  must  exceed  the 
furthest  stretch  of  human  imaoination.  Chains  of  coral  reefs  mav  be 
traced  from  the  Sandwich  Islands,  in  the  Pacitic  Ocean,  to  the  coast 
of  Sumatra,  a  distance  of  nearly  six  thousand  miles,  with  a  depth  and 
width  correspondingly  vast.  This  is  one  of  the  numerous  sul)jects 
which  a  reflecting  mind  cannot  contemplate  without  being  lost  and  swal- 
lowed up  in  a  vortex  of  wonder  and  astonishment !  "  How  wonderful 
are  Thy  works  !     In  wisdom  Thou  hast  made  them  all  !*' 

In  this  excursion  I  found  copper,  lead,  and  iron  ores ;  and  from  un- 
equivocal indications  I  have  no  doubt  that  gold  and  silver  ore  may  be 
found  in  this  part  of  the  country ;  together  with  precious  stones,  s])ices, 
and  valuable  drugs.  I  also  collected  several  large  grains  of  gold-dust 
from  broken  quartz-rock,  and  among  the  gravel  and  sand  produced  by 
its  fragments,  from  which  I  infer  that  considerable  quantities  of  that 
precious  article  might  be  obtained  through  the  assistance  of  the  natives. 
I  regi'etted  very  much  that  on  this  occasion  I  was  not  accompanied  by 
some  scientific  gentleman,  well  versed  in  mineralogy,  botany,  <fec. 
Those  gentlemen,  for  instance,  who  sailed  from  New- York  in  the  fol- 
lowing year  (1829),  on  board  the  brigs  Seraph  and  Anawan,  of  that 
.  port,  M'ould  have  found  an  ample  field  for  their  scientific  researches  in 


302  EXCURSION  INTO  THE  INTERIOR.  [1828. 

this  unfrequented  part  of  Africa,  as  well  as  on  the  many  unexplored 
islands  which  I  visited  in  my  last  voyage  in  the  North  and  South  Pacific 
Oceans. 

In  returning  from  the  interior  towards  the  seaeoast,  I  paid  some 
attention  to  the  nature  and  character  of  the  soil,  which  in  many  instances 
I  found  to  be  a  loam  of  sandy  clay,  often  from  ten  to  fourteen  inches 
in  depth,  mixed  with  particles  of  ochre, — a  sort  of  earth  consisting  of 
alumina  and  red  oxide  of  iron.  Such  a  soil,  hardened  bv  an  African 
climate  to  the  consistency  of  sun-baked  bricks,  would  seem  to  promise 
but  a  sorry  vegetation.  But  the  germs  of  vegetable  life  are  concealed 
and  preserved  under  the  surface  of  this  almost  impenetrable  crust 
during  those  months  in  which  the  rains  and  dews  of  heaven  are  with- 
held from  this  region  of  the  earth. 

In  the  month  of  June,  when  the  rains  begin  to  fall,  and  soften  this 
hard  layer  of  loam,  the  fibres  of  the  torpid  plants  receive  the  grateful 
moisture,  and  the  resuscitated  germs  push  aside  the  now  yielding  clay, 
and  shoot  forth  in  a  thousand  tender  forms  of  vegetable  life  and  beauty. 
In  a  few  days  the  whole  steril  waste  is  clothed  in  a  soft  and  delicate 
robe  of  green,  which  soon  becomes  enamelled  with  blossoms  of  every 
hue,  and  of  the  most  delightful  fragrance.  Millions  of  these  delicate 
fiowers  ornament  the  hills  and  spangle  the  valleys,  while  the  whole 
atmosphere  is  perfumed  with  paradisiacal  odours.  "  The  desert  now 
blossoms  as  the  rose,"  and  "  the  parched  heath  becomes  a  garden  of 
flowers."  The  Hottentots  now  descend  from  the  mountains,  and  ad- 
vance into  the  plains  nearer  the  seaeoast,  where  they  find  an  abundance 
of  sustenance  for  their  flocks  and  herds.  Antelopes,  ostriches,  and 
other  animals  also  descend  into  the  valleys,  which  greatly  increases 
the  beauty  of  the  scene. 

But,  alas !  when  nature  thus  suddenly  plays  the  prodigal,  she  soon 
exhausts  her  means,  and  becomes  a  niggard  again.  This  beautiful 
scene  is  soon  stripped  of  its  glory.  In  the  month  of  September  or 
October  the  flowers  fade,  and  the  leaves  fall  to  the  earth ;  and  the 
incipient  germs  of  future  fertility,  the  property  of  another  year,  are 
safely  locked  up  in  their  prison  of  clay,  from  whence  they  will  be 
again  called  forth  by  the  benign  influence  of  a  periodical  rain.  At 
this  dry  season,  when  the  grass  is  withered,  the  succulent  plants  alone 
furnish  food  for  the  herds  and  flocks,  botli  wild  and  tame.  The 
streams  and  rivulets  soon  dry  up,  but  the  springs  in  the  valleys 
never  cease  to  flow ;  and  they  supply  the  different  kinds  of  animals 
with  sufficient  water  to  allay  their  thirst.  But  when  vegetable  life 
refuses  to  act  in  the  valleys,  they  return  to  the  mountains,  with  ap- 
parent reluctance  ;  and  some  of  them  will  remain  in  the  valleys  a  long 
time,  feeding  upon  succulent  plants,  which  afford  them  both  food 
and  drink. 

In  crossing  the  sandy  deserts,  v/hich  extend  from  the  seaeoast  about 
forty  miles  inlaad,  and  about  eight  hundred  miles  north-west  and  south- 
east, we  find  that  this  parched  and  arid  plain  is  intersected,  in  various 
directions,  by  the  vacant  beds  of  a  number  of  small  streams ;  which, 
though  mostly  dried  up,  can  be  easily  traced  and  clearly  distinguished 
by  the  dark  green  mimosas  which  grow  along  their  banks,  and  which 


Dec]  SAIL  FROM  WALWICH  BAY.  303 

form  the  only  instances  or  symptoms  of  vegetable  life  throughout  the 
whole  dreary  waste.  This  is  indeed  a  retirement  fit  for  the  diffident, 
unobtrusive  sensitive-plant. 

The  natives  of  this  part  of  the  country  are  not  like  those  to  the 
.south  of  this  place,  nor  those  to  the  north  of  the  fourteenth  degree  of 
south  latitude,  who  employ  the  principal  part  of  their  time  in  hunt- 
ing the  elephant,  the  antelope,  and  other  peaceful  animals,  from  the 
spoils  of  which  they  enrich  themselves.  But  these  natives  never 
molest  the  elephant,  nor  any  other  animal,  except  for  the  purpose 
of  providing  themselves  with  necessary  food  and  clothing.  The  con- 
sequence is,  that,  hunted  from  their  native  forests,  at  the  north  and 
south,  the  persecuted  animals  retreat  to  this  unfrequented  region  for 
protection,  and  here  they  live  in  security,  rapidly  increasing  in  num- 
bers. The  quiet  and  peaceable  elephant  is  here  the  monarch  of  the 
forest,  and  his  race  has  become  very  numerous  in  the  interior.  From 
my  Hottentot  guides  I  learned  that  they  roam  in  vast  herds  through 
the  densely-wooded  tracts  of  the  country,  disputing  the  right  of 
sovereignty  even  with  the  African  lion.  Matchless  in  size  and  strength, 
yet  tranquil,  peaceful,  and  majestic,  they  march  in  herds  or  troops, 
headed  by  the  most  ancient  of  their  number,  who  acts  as  king,  chief, 
or  leader,  to  the  party.  They  lead  a  social,  almost  a  moral  life ;  mo- 
lesting neither  man  nor  beast,  unless  first  assailed  by  them. 

Droves  of  elephants  have  frequently  passed  within  one  hundred 
yards  of  our  party,  without  deigning  to  notice  us  with  any  more  atten- 
tion than  we  should  in  passing  so  many  ants  on  the  road.  In  all 
collisions  with  these  sagacious  animals,  man  is  always  the  first 
aggressor,  to  which  act  he  is  incited  by  cupidity  alone.  Their 
ivory  tusks  form  the  most  valuable  article  of  trade  that  Africa  can 
boast,  gold  dust  excepted.  It  is  generally  supposed,  from  the  pro- 
digious strength  of  the  elephant,  his  almost  impenetrable  hide,  his 
rapid  though  clumsy  movements,  that  he  is  a  most  desperate  and 
perilous  object  of  attack.  But  those  Africans  who  make  it  a  business 
to  take  them  succeed  w-ithout  much  difficulty,  by  forming  pits  and 
snares  of  various  descriptions,  into  which  they  are  treacherously  in- 
veigled. 

December  IdtJi. — Having  finished  my  excursion,  and  returned  in 
safety  to  the  vessel  at  Wahvich  Bay,  examined  the  salt  springs,  and 
procured  a  supply  of  beef  and  mutton  from  the  natives,  we  again  found 
ourselves  in  readiness  for  sea,  as  it  was  now  time  to  retrace  our  steps, 
and  look  for  seals  to  the  south.  The  reader  will  remember  that  from 
Saldanha  Bay  to  our  present  anchorage,  a  distance  of  more  than  ten 
degrees  of  latitude,  we  had  critically  examined  every  mile  of  the 
coast ;  our  boats  being,  at  no  time,  more  than  one  or  two  cables' 
length  from  the  breakers,  and  all  by  daylight.  I  can  therefore  say, 
with  confidence,  that  there  are  no  other  dangers  along  this  part  of  the 
coast  than  what  I  have  pointed  out  and  described  ;  and  every  navigator 
who  follows  these  directions  will  be  sure  to  keep  his  ship  afloat.  It 
will  not  be  necessary,  therefore,  in  passing  over  the  same  ground,  to 
recapitulate  the  facts  already  stated. 

December  loth. — On  Monday,  the  loth,  we  once  more  put  to  sea, 


304  ^  MERCURY  ISLAND.  [1828. 

and  steered  a  southerly  course  for  Mercury  Island,  touching  at  Bird 
Island  on  the  way,  from  which  we  took  a  few  fur-seal  skins.  We 
continued  plying  to  the  southward,  with  the  wind  from  south-south- 
west during  the  day,  and  south-south-east  during  the  night,  until  we 
arrived  at  Mercury  Island,  on  Monday,  the  22d.  Here  we  commenced 
taking  seal,  and  although  the  landing  w^as  very  bad,  I  adhered  to  my 
usual  custom  of  leading  the  gang ;  a  custom  which  every  ship-master 
should  adopt  who  is  engaged  in  this  business,  as  it  never  fails  to  pro- 
mote the  interest  of  all  parties. 

In  scaling  the  rocks  and  precipices  of  an  unsheltered  shore,  to  attack 
a  large  body  of  these  ferocious  amphibia,  some  hazard  is  necessarily 
incurred,  and  some  courage  consequently  required  ;  and  I  have  always 
found  a  vast  difference  in  the  result,  whether  I  sent  my  men  ahead 
with  the  words  "  Go  on,  men  !  Go  on !"  or  led  the  van  myself,  with 
the  more  animating  exclamation  of  "  Come  on,  my  lads  !  Come  on !" 
The  latter  language  seems  to  kindle  the  fire  of  enthusiasm  in  every 
bosom;  to  inspire  them  with  new  courage,  and  to  endue  them  with 
redoubled  vigour.  They  rush  forward  reckless  of  danger,  placing  the 
fullest  confidence  in  the  experience  and  cool  intrepidity  of  their  enter- 
prising leader. 

■  December  24th. — On  Wednesday,  the  24th,  I  landed  with  a  party  of 
twenty-three  picked  men,  with  the  intention  of  taking  a  large  body  of 
fur-seal,  which  were  assembled  on  the  west  side  of  the  island.  The 
sea  was  tolerably  smooth,  and  the  men  in  fine  spirits,  with  the  pros- 
pect before  them  of  surprising  and  destroying  an  unsuspecting  army, 
which  would  yield  them  such  valuable  spoils. 

Our  schooner  lay  at  anchor  on  the  east  side  of  the  island,  in  four 
fathoms  of  water,  about  two  cables'  lenjith  from  the  shore.  While 
manning  the  boats  and  pulling  for  the  shore,  the  men  were  made  ac- 
quainted with  my  intended  plan  of  attack,  and  received  their  orders 
accordingly.  I  have  already  intimated  that  there  is  no  spot  on  any 
side  of  this  little  island  where  a  landing  can  be  effected  with  ease  and 
facility.  But  to  minds  resolved  no  difficulties  appear  too  formidable 
to  be  surmounted. 

As  our  boat  left  the  vessel's  side,  several  of  the  men  were  guessing, 
and  proposing  trifling  bets,  on  the  probable  number  of  seal  which  were 
to  yield  us  their  jackets  on  this  occasion ;  at  the  same  time  dropping 
some  jocose  remarks  on  the  confusion  which  our  unexpected  appear- 
ance would  cause  among  the  amphibious  members  of  the  defenceless 
community  whose  social  arrangements  and  domestic  enjoyments  we 
were  about  to  annihilate. 

"  Poor  fellows !"  exclaimed  young  Ogden,  arousing  from  a  brief  fit 
of  musing  abstraction  ;  "  what  ties  of  affection  are  soon  to  be  severed 
for  ever ! — whole  families  nearly  cut  to  pieces,  and  the  survivors 
plunged  in  misery !  Those  that  escape  will  find  to-morrow  a  melan- 
choly Christmas." 

"  Ours  will  be  the  more  merry  for  our  success,"  replied  his  friend 
Oscar  Studivan.  "  Besides,  it  will  teach  these  gentry  a  useful  lesson 
on  extravagance  in  dress.     If  they  wore  hair  instead  of  fur,  as  some 


?. 


Dec]  FATAL  DISASTER.  .         305 

of  their  humbler  neighbours  do,  we  should  never  molest  ihem."     Ogden 
made  no  reply,  but  seemed  absorbed  in  some  other  subject. 

"  To-morrow  will  be  a  merry  day  among  the  genuine  Knicker- 
bockers of  New- York,"  resumed  the  last  speaker.  "  How  runs 
your  favourite  quotation  about  the  Christmas  holydays  ?"  Ogden 
replied, 

"  Whatever  pains  assailed,  or  griefs  opprcss'd, 
Christmas  and  New-year  always  saw  me  blest." 

They  were  proceeding  with  some  further  remarks  to  the  same  effect, 
when  I  interposed  with  a  caution  of  silence,  and  orders  to  stand  ready 
for  landing,  when  no  man  was  to  speak  above  a  whisper.  Tliis  ar- 
rangement is  always  necessary,  as  the  seal  are  ever  on  the  alert,  and 
on  hearing  the  least  noise,  are  apt  to  fly  to  the.  ocean  for  safety. 

It  was  now  about  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  tide  was  low, 
and  the  sea  tolerably  smooth ;  so  that  we  effected  a  landing  without 
much  difficulty.  Having  secured  the  boats,  we  all  silently  crept  along 
the  north  shore  of  the  island,  which  is  only  a  mile  in  circumference, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  came  in  sight  of  our  intended  victims,  who  were 
lying  well  up  on  the  summits  of  the  steep  rocks.  I  led  the  way, 
closely  followed  by  my  six  confidential  companions,  viz.  Messrs. 
Lewis,  Johnson,  Terry,  Ogden,  Studivan,  and  Valentine  Lewis.  The 
seal  soon  scented  the  approach  of  an  enemy,  as  we  plainly  perceived 
by  their  suddenly  manifesting  symptoms  of  alarm.  No  time  was  now 
to  be  lost ;  but  an  instantaneous  rush  was  necessary,  in  order  to  com- 
mence the  attack  before  they  could  recover  from  their  confusion. 

"  Come  on,  my  lads  !"  I  exclaimed,  in  a  cheerful  but  half-suppressed 
voice ;  "  come  on,  and  let  every  blow  tell."  The  rush  of  my  little 
party  was  simultaneous ;  every  nerve  and  muscle  was  exerted,  and 
we  had  reached  the  opposite  side  of  the  rookery,  killing  several  seal 
in  our  way,  when  we  found  that  the  other  party,  under  the  command 
of  Mr.  Burton,  had  been  stopped  in  "  mid-course"  about  the  centre  of 
the  rookery,  by  the  immense  number  of  seal  that  began  to  pour  down 
the  steep  rocks  and  precipices,  like  an  irresistible  torrent,  bearing 
down  their  assailants,  and  taking  several  of  the  men  nearly  into  the 
ocean  along  with  them.  On  seeing  their  danger,  however,  we  "  flew 
to  the  rescue,"  and  soon  relieved  them  by  turning  the  tide  of  war  in 
another  direction.  Several  hundred  fur-seal  were  left  lifeless  on  the 
shore  and  rocks. 

As  the  rollers  now  began  to  set  in  with  a  considerable  degree  of 
violence,  I  ordered  the  men  to  commence  skinning  those  which  lay 
nearest  to  the  water's  edge  first.  They  applied  themselves  to  the 
task  with  alacrity;  but  had  hardly  secured  the  jackets  of  more  than 
fifty  seal,  when  a  wave  of  enormous  size  came  rolling  in  to  the  shore, 
with  such  velocity  as  to  take  ofi'  and  ingulf  in  its  bosom  Messrs. 
West,  Burton,  and  Ogden.  Ten  or  twelve  others,  with  myself,  very 
narrowly  escaped  the  same  disaster. 

"  Man  the  boat !"  I  exclaimed,  and  the  order  was  echoed  by  a  dozen 
voices  at  once ;  and  the  alacrity  of  obedience  was  such,  that  the  men 
descended  a  rocky  clifl'  of  about  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  apparently 

U 


306  DEATH  OF  YOUNG  OGDEN.  [185^8. 

without  a  step.  In  a  moment  tliey  were  in  the  boat,  and  near  the 
struggling  trio  who  were  coniending  for  existence  agrxinst  the  ruthless 
billows.  They  first  pulled  for  Mr.  West ;  but  as  he  found  no  great 
inconvenience  from  swimming,  he  ordered  them  to  assist  Ogden  and 
Burton,  who,  he  said,  were  nearly  exhausted,  which  proved  to  be  the 
case :  for  before  the  boat  could  reach  Mr.  I3urton,  who  was  just  on 
the  point  of  going  down,  they  saw  poor  Ogden  sink  to  rise  no  more. 
After  taking  Mr.  Burton  into  the  boat,  they  pulled  around  for  some 
time  over  the  plaise  where  Mr.  Ogden  was  last  seen,  but  all  to  no  pur- 
pose. That  graceful,  manly  frame  was  destined  to  find  a  resting- 
place  in  some  coral  cavern  of  the  ocean,  while  his  amiable  and  aspiring 
spirit  soared  to  the  realms  of  everlasting  bliss.    • 

Thus  pcribhed,  in  the  bloom  of  his  earthly  existence,  a  young  man 
who,  had  he  lived,  would  doubtless  have  proved  an  honour,  not  only  to 
his  family,  but  to  his  country,  and  human  nature ;  a  young  man  whose 
highly  cultivated  and  accomplished  mind  was  endowed  with  every 
manly  grace,  whose  heart  was  the  seat  of  every  manly  virtue ;  the 
hope  of  a  widowed  mother — the  idol  of  amiable  and  afleclionate  sisters 
— the  pride  of  brothers  who  contemplated  with  proud  satisfaction  the 
budding  promises  of  his  future  usefulness.  I  knew  him  well.  His 
integrity  was  inflexible,  and  for  strict  veracity  I  have  never  met  with 
his  parallel ;  for  he  looked  upon  an  untruth,  even  of  the  most  trifling 
nature,  as  an  ofience  against  honour  and  virtue,  which  no  circumstance 
could  extenuate.  He  was  temperate  iii  all  things — moderate  on  all 
occasions,  except  in  his  eagerness  to  encounter  danger.  He  never 
shrank  from  his  duly,  on  tlie  most  trying  occasions,  except  that  of 
"being  required  to  listen  to  the  language  of  well-merited  praise.  In  v 
short,  he  was  the  exemplary  son  of  a  pious  mother ;  and  that  includes 
the  highest  and  brightest  encomium  of  which  human  language  is  sus- 
ceptible. Alas  !  for  thooc  who  loved  him  !  Theirs  is  the  loss — his 
an  eternal  gain. 

As  a  trifling  tribute  of  afleciion  and  respect  to  the  memory  of  one 
so  universally  beloved,  the  colours  of  the  Antarctic  were  immediately 
displayed  at  half-mast,  and  minute  guns  were  fired  over  his  watery 
grave.  A  manly  tear  glistened  in  every  eye,  and  the  gloom  of  mourn- 
ing sat  upon  every  brow.  Nothing  was  omitted  on  this  occasion  that 
nautical  usage  or  military  etiquette  has  consecrated  to  such  melan- 
choly purposes. 

Mr.  Burton  suffered  much  from  the  bruiaes  which  he  received  from 
the  rocks  against  which  the  roller  threw  him  ;  and  this  I  presume  was 
also  the  case  with  the  unfortunate  Ogden,  for  I  knew  him  to  be  an  ex- 
pert swimmer. 

December  25th. — I  now  determined  on  leaving  Mercury  Island  im- 
jnediately,  for  I  could  no  longer  endure  the  melancholy  scene  ;  we  there- 
fore got  under  v/ay  on  Thursday,  the  25th, — the  day  on  which  we  had 
promised  ourselves  a  merry  Christmas,  but  which  had  risen  upon  us 
as  a  day  of  mourning, — and  steered  to  the  south  and  west,  with  the  wind 
from  south-by-east,  and  fair  weather.  The  morrow  did  indeed  prove  to  be 
*'  a  melancholy  Christmas,"  as  Ogden  unconsciously  predicted.  Every 
returning  anniversary  will  remind  his  friends  of  their  irreparable  loss. 


April.]  BRIO  COLUMBINE— TABLE  BAY.  307 

We  continued  plying  to  the  southward,  taking  advantage  of  the  laml- 
breezes  by  night  and  the  sea-breezes  by  day,  stretching  along  the  coast, 
and  carefully  examining  every  rock  and  island  on  which  fur-seals  were 
likely  to  be  found,  for  more  than  three  months,  when  we  found  our- 
selves once  more  in  the  thirty-second  degree  of  south  latitude. 

April  \Qth^  1829. — On  Sunday,  the  19th  of  April,  we  arrived  at  Point 
St.  Helena,  where  we  found  the  English  brig  Columbine,  Captain  Stew- 
art, in  a  situation  that  precluded  the  hope  of  the  vessel's  ultimate  safety. 
She  was  on  shore,  and  her  valuable  cargo  in  imminent  danger  of  being 
totally  lost.  Captain  S.  had  sailed  from  England,  bound  for  Van  Die- 
man's  Land,  by  the  way  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  Lieut.  Mitchell 
of  the  royal  navy  was  on  board  as  passenger.  Him  I  took  on  board 
the  Antarctic,  and  proceeded  to  Table  Bay  with  all  possible  expedi- 
tion, to  obtain  permission  to  save  the  brig's  cargo,  and  become  entitled 
to  the  salvage,  which  would  have  amounted  to  at  least  twenty-five 
thousand  dollars. 

My  proposition  was  rejected  on  account  of  the  Antarctic  being 
American  bottom  ;  though  Lieutenant  Mitchell  and  Messrs.  Nisbot  and 
Dixon,  three  as  worthy  men  as  any  country  can  boast  of,  exerted  all 
their  influence  with  the  government  in  my  favour.  Several  other  highly 
respectable  merchants  also  interceded  for  me  ;  but  Sir  Lowery  Cole 
refused  to  accede  to  the  proposition.  The  only  reason  assigned  for 
this  refusal  was,  that  he  hud  enemies,  and  the  moment  that  he  varied  from 
the  strict  letter  of  the  British  laws,  he  should  be  censured  for  t  akin  or 
8uch  a  responsibility  on  liis  own  shoulders.  The  consequence  was, 
that  property  was  lost  to  the  amount  of  about  seventy-five  thousand 
dollars'  value,  the  whole  of  which  I  might  have  saved,  if  I  could  have 
obtained  permission  from  the  government,  the  Antarctic  being  the  only 
vessel  then  in  port  that  was  calculated  for  such  an  undertaking.  It 
"was  lost. 

April  2\.st. — We  arrived  at  Table  Bay  on  Tuesday,  the  21st,  and 
anchored  abreast  of  Cape  Town,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  muddy 
bottom,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  landing-place,  which  is  at  a  kind  of 
bridge  or  jetty  which  runs  out  to  the  eastward  about  two  hundred  yards, 
and  has  from  eight  to  ten  feet  of  water  at  its  outer  end.  Large  cranes 
are  erected  on  this  landing  for  the  convenience  of  discharging  cargoes 
from  boats.  Ships  may  fill  their  water  here  with  a  great  deal  of 
facility,  as  it  is  conducted  from  springs  under  the  high  land  to  the  end 
of  the  jetty  by  leaden  and  iron  pipes,  to  each  of  which  is  fitted  a 
leathern  hose  to  conduct  the  water  into  tlie  boats,  where  the  casks 
may  be  filled  with  the  greatest  ease  and  expedition,  even  if  the  sea 
should  be  quite  rougli. 

In  addition  to  what  I  have  already  said  of  Cape  Town  in  a  pre- 
ceding chapter,  I  can  now  state  from  my  own  observations,  that  it  is 
handsomely  built,  the  houses  in  general  being  from  two  to  four  stories 
in  height,  built  of  stone,  whitewashed,  and  disposed  in  straight  and 
parallel  streets.  Several  beautiful  squares  give  the  whole  town  an 
open,  airy,  and  picturesque  appearance. 

To  the  north-west  of  the  town  are  three  strong  batteries,  which  com- 
mand the  anchorage,  and  on  the  east  side  is  the  citadel.     Half  a  mile 

U2 


308  TABLE  BAY.  [1829. 

still  farther  east  is  a  small  fort,  with  a  line  of  redoubts.  This  bay  is 
an  excellent  place  for  all  kinds  of  refreshments.  Bullocks,  sheep, 
hogs,  and  poultry  may  be  had  at  a  moderate  price,  with  various  kinds 
of  vegetables  and  fruits.  Fuel,  however,  is  scarce  and  dear.  The  air 
here  is  generally  cool  in  the  night,  although  the  sandy  soil  is  greatly 
heated  by  the  sun  during  the  day,  and  this  causes  land-breezes  from 
-Table  Bay  to  come  off  in  hot  gusts  during  the  evening. 

The  southern  or  outer  point  of  Table  Bay  is  called  Green  Point,  on 
which  a  lighthouse  was  erected  in  1825,  four  years  previous  to  the 
date  of  this  part  of  my  jom-nal.  It  is  about  two  miles  north-west  of 
the  town,  and  is  situated  in  latitude  33°  53'  30"  S.,  long.  18°  19'  20"  E. 
Five  miles  to  the  northward  of  this  lighthouse  is  Robben  or  Penguin 
Island,  which  is  two  miles  in  length  from  north  to  south.  The  west 
and  south  sides  are  surrounded  by  sunken  rocks  and  breakers ;  but 
there  are  no  dangers  more  than  two  cables'  length  from  the  island, 
with  the  exception  of  a  sunken  rock  that  lies  one  mile  south  of  the 
southerly  point,  commonly  called  the  Whale. 

Ships  may  anchor  off  the  eastern  side  of  Robben  Island,  in  five  or 
six  fathoms  of  water,  sandy  bottom,  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,  where 
they  will  be  completely  sheltered  from  the  westerly  swell,  and  lie  in 
more  safety  in  the  winter  season  than  they  will  in  Table  Bay.  Ships 
bound  into  this  bay,  coming  from  the  north,  and  passing  between 
Robben  Island  and  the  main,  should  keep  the  light  on  Green  Point 
bearing  about  south-west-by-south,  until  they  are  past  the  island,  in 
passing  which  the  least  depth  of  water  will  be  six  fathoms.  After 
passing  the  island  you  may  steer  a  direct  course  for  the  anchorage, 
when  you  will  have  twelve,  ten,  eight,  and  at  the  anchorage  six  fathoms 
of  water,  sand  and  muddy  bottom.  Arro\Vsmith's  map  is  correct  for 
this  port. 

But  in  going  into  Table  Bay  when  coming  from  the  north,  I  would 
always  advise  ships  to  pass  to  the  west  of  Robben  Island,  taking  care 
to  keep  the  lighthouse  on  Green  Point  to  the  eastward  of  south-by- 
east,  from  the  ship,  until  within  one  mile  of  the  point,  when  you  may 
steer  east-by-south,  until  the  lighthouse  bears  south-west-by-west,  when 
you  may  steer  for  the  anchorage,  and  moor  in  from  five  to  four  fathoms 
of  water,  in  the  summer  season ;  but  in  the  winter,  ships  should  never 
anchor  in  less  than  six  and  a  half  fathoms,  as  the  northerly  gales  send 
a  very  heavy  swell  into  this  bay,  which  often  breaks  in  four  fathoms. 

Small  vessels  in  entering  Table  Bay  may  keep  the  right-hand  shore 
close  on  board,  as  there  are  no  dangers  more  than  one  hundred  and 
fifty  fathoms  from  the  shore  that  will  bring  a  ship  up.  In  entering: 
tliis  bay  about  noon,  or  a  little  after,  I  would  advise  ship-masters  in- 
variably to  take  one  or  two  reefs  in  the  topsails  before  they  come  up 
with  Green  Point,  as  it  is  generally  the  case,  in  the  summer  months, 
that  before  coming  up  with  this  point,  ships  may  carry  all  sail ;  and 
the  moment  they  open  the  bay,  they  will  find  a  single  or  double  reef, 
and  often,  in  the  afternoon,  a  close-reef  breeze.  Thus,  by  using  this 
precaution,  ships  will  not  be  in  danger  of  losing  their  spars,  or  sphtting 
their  sails ;  and  after  opening  the  bay,  if  they  should  not  find  too  much 


April.]  TABLE  BAY.  309 

wind,  in  the  flaws,  they  can  soon  turn  out  one  or  two  reefs,  and  set  the 
top-gallant-sails. 

It  may  be  well  to  remark,  that  an  eddy,  or  counter  current,  com- 
monly sets  from  the  north  into  Table  Bay,  between  Robben  Island  and 
the  mainland ;  while,  at  the  same  time,  the  regular  current  is  setting 
to  the  north,  a  short  distance  in  the  ofRng.  Ships  bound  into  the  bay 
should  therefore  be  careful  to  make  the  land  to  the  south  of  latitude 
33°  55',  if  the  wind  be  southerly.  By  not  attending  to  this,  and  making 
proper  allowances  for  the  currents,  they  have  often  fallen  in  with  the 
land  to  the  north  of  Dassen  Island,  and  even  as  far  north  as  Point  St. 
Helena,  where  some  of  them  have  left  their  ribs  on  the  sunken  rocks 
which  line  the  coast  between  St.  Helen's  and  Saldanha  bays.  Thus, 
by  falling  in  south  of  the  port,  in  the  summer  months,  they  will  have 
tfee  advantage  of  a  fair  wind  and  a  favourable  current ;  whereas  by 
I'alling  in  north  of  the  port,  it  may  take  them  a  day  or  two,  under  the 
most  favourable  circumstances,  to  gain  the  anchorage. 

It  is  unsafe  for  ships  to  lie  in  this  port  between  the  months  of  May 
and  October ;  for  the  north-north-west  and  north-west  winds  then  set 
in,  and  often  blow  with  great  violence,  so  that  unless  a  ship  has  very 
good  ground-tackling,  she  will  almost  inevitably  go  on  shore.  North- 
west winds  happen  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  more  or  less,  but  never 
with  any  force  between  October  and  May.  One  of  the  most  violent 
north-west  gales  that  ever  happened  at  Cape  Town  was  in  July,  1822, 
when  a  great  number  of  vessels  went  on  shore,  and  about  seventy 
houses  and  stores  were  destroyed.     Fortunately,  no  lives  were  lost. 

I  have  found,  as  well  as  others,  that  the  variable  state  of  atmospheri- 
cal refraction  in  this  bay  is  so  great  as  to  render  it  difficult,  and  some- 
times impossible,  to  obtain  accurate  altitudes  of  the  heavenly  bodies  on 
shipboard.  Objects  are  often  reflected  double,  and  I  have  several  times 
gazed  at  ships  apparently  sailing  in  the  air.  The  best  plan  is  to  take 
the  chronometers  on  shore,  and  correct  them  by  altitudes  taken  with 
an  artificial  horizon. 

Another  phenomenon  which  deserves  to  be  mentioned  in  this  place 
is,  a  fleecy  vapour  occasionally  spread  over  the  Table  Mountain,  and 
is  a  certain  prognostic  of  a  hard  gale.  This  is  called  the  tablecloth 
by  Englishmen,  but  the  French  call  it  la  perruque,  or  the  wig.  It  com- 
mences by  a  little  white  or  fleecy  cloud,  which  remains  for  some  time 
stationary  over  the  summit  of  the  Lion's  Rump.  It  then  gradually  in- 
creases until  it  covers  the  whole  Table,  when  it  becomes  a  dark  gray 
in  the  middle,  while  its  edges  still  remam  white.  After  continmng  for 
some  time,  it  slowly  mmgles  with  the  atmosphere,  until  it  finally  dis- 
appears without  rain  or  mist. 

A  strong  south-east  wind  commences  immediately  after  the  mountain 
is  completely  covered,  which  often  blows  in  squalls  excessively  hard, 
and  generally  continues  for  two  or  three  days.  It  blows  very  hard 
through  the  gap  which  separates  the  Table  from  the  Devil's  Berg, 
driving  the  white  clouds  in  rolling  fleeces  like  wool  along  the  sides  of 
the  mountains.  Ships  are  frequently  parted  from  their  moorings,  or 
bring  their  anchors  home,  and  are  driven  out  of  the  bay  with  all  their 


310  SAIL  TO  THE  NORTH.  [1820. 

anchors  ahead.     But  the  moment  they  are  outside  of  the  bay,  they  find 
nothing  more  than  a  single  or  double-reef  breeze. 

I  should  advise  navigators  who  enter  Table  Bay  with  the  intention 
of  remaining  any  length  of  time,  to  anchor  well  under  the  M'estern 
shore,  and  to  strike  top-gallant  yards  and  masts  ;  always  placing  the 
two  best  anchors  to  the  south-south-east,  and  giving  the  ship  the  whole 
length  of  both  cables,  which  will  cause  the  anchors  to  bed  themselves, 
and  belter  ensure  the  ship's  holding  on,  or  not  dragging. 

As  regards  a  geological  description  of  this  portion  of  South  Africa, 
the  reader  can  expect  nothing  from  my  pen,  in  addition  to  the  many 
elaborate  strictures  already  before  the  public,  by  such  scientific 
voyagers  and  travellers  as  Barrow,  Patterson,  Campbell,  Colebrook, 
Collin,  Kolben,  Sparrman,  Le  Vaillant,  Thunberg,  Valentia,  Peuchet, 
Semple,  Perceval,  and  a  host  of  others.  These  writers  have  all  care- 
fully examined  and  particularly  described  the  mountains,  rocks,  mine- 
rals, vegetables,  animals,  &c.  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  to  their 
v/orks  I  refer  the  reader ;  to  a  synopsis  in  the  Edinburgh  Encyclo- 
pedia, under  this  article ;  and  to  M.  Malte  Bran's  System  of  Geog- 
raphy. 

April  2oth. — We  left  Table  Bay  on  Saturday,  the  25th,  and 
shaped  our  course  to  the  north,  for  Angra  Pequena,  with  a  fresh  wind 
from  south-south-east,  and  hazy  weather.  In  the  morning  previous  to 
our  departure,  the  tablecloth  was  spread  on  the  mountain,  and  I  had 
an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  mist  collect  and  arrange  itself  about  the 
summit  of  Table  Mountain. 

But  this  phenomenon  presents  itself  only  when  a  strong,  bold  south- 
east wind  may  be  expected,  which  must  condense  the  aqueous  vapour 
rising  from  the  warm  current,  and  carry  it  towards  the  land.  During 
the  short  stay  I  made  at  the  Cape,  this  was  the  only  opportunity  I  had 
of  observing  this  vapour  advancing  from  the  ocean.  It  came  rapidly 
over  the  surface  of  the  sea,  which  it  entirely  concealed,  while  the  air 
above  was  perfectly  clear.  It  came  on  with  much  force  and  velocity, 
soon  reached  the  land,  and  gradually  enveloped  the  coast.  It  thea 
ascended  the  mountain,  where  it  remained  apparently  stationary, 
almost  entirely  covering  the  Table  Mountain  with  one  vast  sheet  of 
white  fleecy  clouds  ;  alternately  increasing  and  decreasing  on  the  side 
of  the  mountain  that  overhangs  Cape  Town,  and  often  descending 
nearly  half-way  down  the  mountain,  as  if  in  mockery  of  human  curiosity 
and  imbecility. 

I  was  surprised  to  see  this  tablecloth,  or  sheet  of  clouds,  remaining 
stationary  on  the  mountain  after  the  south-east  wind  had  set  in  with 
great  violence,  until  I  recollected  the  vast  height  of  this  eminence, 
which  is  estimated  at  more  than  thirty-six  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  its  precipitous  sides,  and  the  extensive  surface  of  its  top. 
Nor  is  it  strange  that  it  should  rarely  descend  (except  when  the  wind 
blows  almost  a  hurricane),  if  we  take  into  consideration  the  situation 
of  the  ground  beneath, — sheltered,  warm,  and  the  site  of  a  large  town, 
from  which  a  current  of  hot  air  must  be  constantly  ascending. 

When  we  got  under  way,  which  was  at  one,  P.  M.,  the  wind  came 
down  the  mountains  hito  the  bay  in  tremendous  gusts  ;  and  blowed  with 


'April.]  ROBBEN  ISLAND— DASSEN  ISLAND.  311 

such  violence,  that  after  tripping  the  anchor,  and  sheeting  home  the 
fore-topsail,  with  the  yard  on  the  cap,  the  Antarctic  was  going  at  the 
rate  of  eleven  miles  an  hour.  But,  as  we  left  the  bay  behind  us,  the 
wind  became  more  moderate ;  so  that  when  we  were  in  the  passage 
between  Robben  Island  and  the  main,  we  had  all  sail  on  the  schooner, 
which  was  then  going  at  the  rate  of  thirteen  and  a  half  miles  an  hour. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Robben  or  Penguin  Island — Dassen  or  Conpy  Island — Arrive  at  Angra  Pequena 
— Sand-winds,  and  a  moving  Column  of  Sand — Intercourse  with  the  Natives — 
The  Guinea-worm — A  Horde  of  Macasses,  or  Makosses — Ogden's  Harbour — 
Cape  Frio,  or  Cold  Cape — Great  Fish  Bay — A  Tribe  of  the  Cimbebas — Ex- 
cursion into  the  Interior — Port  Alexander — St.  Philip  Benguela — St.  Philip's 
Bonnet — Province,  Bay,  and  Town  of  Benguela — Anchorage,  Landing,  Soil, 
Climate,  Productions,  Water,  &c. — Animals,  Vegetables,  and  Minerals — De- 
scription of  the  Coast — Sailing  DircctiouB. 

In  leaving  Table  Bay  with  a  strong  south-east  wind,  if  bound  for  a 
northern  port,  I  would  advise  all  navigators  to  pass  between  Robben  or 
Penguin  Island  and  the  mainland.  In  entering  this  bay  from  the  same 
quarter,  I  have  already  advised  a  different  course,  and  adduced  my 
reasons.  It  was  reported  that  Robben  Island  had  been  sunk  by  an 
earthquake  on  the  7th  day  of  December,  1809.  It  appears,  however, 
that  this  report  had  not  quite  so  good  a  foundation  as  the  island  itself, 
which  still  retains  its  former  situation,  with  all  its  old  characteristics. 

This  island  has  a  sandy  soil,  with  a  ridge  of  moderately  elevated 
land  in  hs  centre,  running  from  north  to  south.  On  its  eastern  side 
there  is  now  a  small  establishment  for  the  whale-fishery.  Some  grapes 
and  culinary  vegetables  are  raised  on  the  island,  which  can  also  boast 
of  several  springs  of  good  water ;  it  is  of  small  dimensions,  however, 
being  only  about  six  miles  in  circumference.  Penguins  and  quails 
resort  hither  in  the  propagating  season,  where  they  establish  their 
nurseries;  but  do  not  get  into  the  best  of  company,  the  island  being 
occupied  as  a  dep6t  for  convicts  from  Cape  Town,  who  are  employed 
in  quarrying  limestone,  of  which  the  base  of  the  island  is  composed. 

At  half-past  three,  P.  M.,  we  passed  between  Dassen  or  Coney 
Island  and  the  shore  of  the  mainland.  This  island  lies  about  ten 
leagues  to  the  north  and  west  of  Green  Point  lighthouse,  and  is  situ- 
ated in  latitude  33^  27'  S.,  long.  IS""  2'  E.  It  lies  nearly  eight  leagues 
to  the  southward  of  the  entrance  to  Saldanha  Bay,  and  four  miles  from 
the  main.  It  is  about  six  miles  in  circumference,  with  little  elevation, 
and  a  sandy  surface.  The  shore  is  foul,  and  dangerous  to  approach 
oa  its  south  and  west  sides,  as  there  are  sunken  rocks  running  off- 
shore to  the  distance  ef  two  or  three  miles,  which  will  bring  a  ship  up, 
and  do  not  always  show  themselves ;  but  on  the  north  and  east  sides 
the  sliore  is  bold,  and  clear  of  dangers,  close  to  where  good  anchorage 
njay  be  found,  with  southerly  winds,  in  from  fifteen  to  eight  fathoms 


313  A  MOVIXG  SAND  COLUMN.  [1829. 

of  water,  sandy  bottom.     The  passage  between  the  island  and  the 
main  is  entirely  clear  of  dangers  two  cables'  length  from  either  shore, 

Tiiis  island  was  formerly  the  resort  of  fur-seal ;  but  at  present  pen- 
guins and  gannets  "  possess  it  merely,"  if  we  except  the  men  Avho  occa- 
sionally visit  it  for  the  purpose  of  robbing  them  of  their  eggs  and  feathers, 
for  the  Cape  market.  Indeed,  I  was  told  by  several  respectable  per- 
sons at  Cape  Town  that  the  feathers  of  the  penguin  were  considered 
superior  to  those  of  the  goose. 

April  SO th. — "We  continued  on  our  passage  to  the  north,  with  strong 
southerly  winds,  and  hazy  weather,  touching  at  different  rocks  which 
lay  in  our  way,  and  taking  from  them  a  few  fur-seal,  until  Thursday, 
the  30th  of  April,  when  we  arrived  at  Angra  Pequena,  or  Santa  Cruz, 
where  we  anchored  on  the  east  side  of  Penguin  Island,  at  four,  A.  M., 
in  five  fathoms  of  water,  clay  bottom. 

At  about  ten,  A.  M.,  the  sand- winds  came  off;  and  to  my  great  satis- 
faction I  had  an  opportunity  of  witnessing,  for  the  first  time  in  my  life, 
one  of  those  moving  pillars  of  sand  which  have  been  so  frequently 
spoken  of  by  the  celebrated  iNIr.  Adamson.  It  rose  about  five  miles 
inland  from  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  moved  in  the  dii-ection  of  the  wind 
towards  the  south-west,  increasing  in  magnitude  as  it  advanced,  until 
it  left  the  shore,  when  it  began  gradually  to  diminish  as  it  crossed 
the  bay. 

This  moving  column  of  sand  passed  within  a  cable's  length  of  the 
Antarctic,  at  which  time  I  should  judge  that  it  would  measure  fifteen 
or  eighteen  feet  in  circumference,  of  a  conic  form,  and  about  two  hun- 
dred feet  in  nearly  a  perpendicular  height  from  the  water,  leaning  a 
little  to  the  south-west.  Its  heat,  in  passing  the  vessel,  was  sensibly 
felt,  while  it  emitted  a  strong  odour,  not  unlike  that  of  sulphur,  which 
was  soon  dissipated,  however,  by  the  strong  gusts  of  wind  which  came 
ofi'  from  the  shore,  raising  the  thermometer  to  113^.  The  column 
finally  fell  into  the  water,  nearly  half-way  between  Penguin  Island  and 
Seal  Island,  the  latter  being  about  two  hundred  fathoms  to  the  north 
of  the  former. 

This  startling  phenomenon  mduced  me  to  waver  in  my  former  opin- 
ion respecting  the  visitation  of  a  plague  or  pestilence  on  the  unfortunate 
seals,  mentioned  in  a  former  chapter.  Is  it  not  more  probable  that 
they  w^ere  overwhelmed  and  suffocated  by  one  of  these  sand-spouts 
bursting  upon  them,  accompanied  by  the  sultry,  stifiing  sand-winds 
which  created  it?  Such  a  cause  would  be  more  than  sufficient 
to  produce  the  effect  alluded  to, — the  simultaneous  destruction  of  mil- 
lions of  these  amphibious  animals,  assembled  on  the  surface  of  the 
two  islands  at  the  head  of  this  bay,  which  are  literally  covered  with  the 
decaying  carcasses  of  the  victims,  wuth  their  skins  still  about  them. 

The  effects  of  these  sand-winds  are  sometimes  very  disastrous  and 
fatally  destructive  when  occurring  on  the  borders  of  the  sandy  deserts. 
In  one  of  my  inland  excursions  in  this  country  I  had  the  misfortune  to 
encounter  a  tornado  of  this  description,  which  impressed  me  with  a 
full  conviction  of  their  wonderful  effects.  The  wind  raised  the  sand 
so  as  to  completely  fill  the  atmosphere,  obscuring  the  sun  at  noonday, 
and  concealing  every  thing  from  view  at  the  distance  of  two  hundred 


May.]  THE  GUINEA-WORM.  313 

fathoms ;  while  an  oppressive,  suffocating  weight  accompanied  the 
masses  of  sand  through  which  we  had  to  make  our  way,  with  ex- 
treme difficuhy  and  labour.  Our  dogs,  in  the  mean  time,  with  their 
tongues  hanging  from  their  mouths,  refused  to  face  the  clouds  of  sand, 
and  a  parching  thirst,  to  which  water  afforded  only  a  temporary  relief, 
oppressed  every  individual  of  the  party  :  the  fine  light  dust  was  inhaled 
at  every  breath.  This  storm  lasted  about  six  hours ;  but  it  was  more 
than  thrice  that  time  before  the  atmosphere  became  tolerably  clear 
of  floating  sand. 

The  immense  piles  of  sand  which  line  this  seacoast  probably  owe 
their  existence  to  the  easterly,  or  what  is  called  the  sand-wind,  blow- 
ing so  much  stronger  than  the  prevailing  southerly  winds  ;  the  former 
carrying  the  sand  before  it,  and  depositing  it  on  the  borders  of  the  coast, 
burying  beneath  it  cliffs,  rocks,  and  every  thing  but  the  highest  hills. 

We  lay  at  Angra  Pequena  until  the  5th  of  May,  during  which  period 
we  overhauled  and  put  in  order  our  sails  and  rigging,  and  resalted  the 
skins  we  had  taken  on  this  coast,  being  six  thousand.  This  process 
was  necessary  to  secure  their  preservation  on  the  passage  home.  In 
the  mean  time  I  had  repeated  opportunities  of  intercourse  with  the 
natives,  and  gaining  from  them  all  the  information  I  could  respecting 
the  interior  of  the  coimtry,  with  its  animal  and  vegetable  productions. 

]More  than  one  of  these  degraded  people  v/ere  afflicted  with  that 
appalling  complaint  called  the  Guinea-worm,  which,  I  was  informed, 
^  frequently  found  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  invading  the  feet  and  legs 
of  the  natives.  It  is  a  dangerous  and  disgusting  animal,  so  small  at 
first  as  scarcely  to  be  perceptible  to  human  vision,  which  penetrates 
the  skin  of  the  sufferer,  and  takes  up  its  abode  beneath  it.  Here  it 
will  remain  for  years,  feeding  on  the  juices  of  the  system  ;  and  unless 
removed  by  excision,  will  increase  to  the  enormous  size  of  from  eight 
to  ten  feet  in  length,  and  to  the  thickness  of  a  violin's  largest  string. 
Its  general  place  of  abode  is  the  calf  of  the  leg,  as  affording  the  most 
nourishment ;  but  if  it  has  pitched  on  any  other  part  of  the  body,  the 
pains  of  the  sufferer  are  always  increased  in  proportion  to  the  scarcity 
of  flesh  in  its  vicinity.  In  all  cases  where  this  troublesome  inmate  is 
not  removed,  its  continued  presence  for  a  succession  of  years  will 
inevitably  result  in  convulsions  and  death. 

Poor  Africa  seems  to  be  cursed  with  many  evils  unknown  to  the  rest 
of  the  human  race  in  any  section  of  the  globe  : — reptiles  of  the  most 
deadly  venom,  beasts  of  unparalleled  ferocity,  deserts  of  sand,  and 
moral  deserts  a  thousand  times  more  dangerous  and  appalling.  But 
her  greatest  curse  of  all  is  the  white  man's  cupidity,  tearing  asunder 
•itlie  tenderest  ties  of  human  nature,  and  plunging  villages  and  families 
into  mourning  and  despair.  The  hyena,  the  tiger,  the  crocodile,  are 
creatures  existing  by  the  will  of  Heaven— the  man-stealer  is  a  self- 
created  monster  of  hell.  The  depredations  of  the  former  are  the 
effects  of  hunger  ;  those  of  the  latter,  avarice — the  meanest  passion 
that  can  enter  the  human  breast. 

The  Hottentots  in  the  interior  of  this  part  of  the  country  are  called 
Macasscs,  and  though  melancholy  low  in  moral  degradation,  have 
often  been  misrepresented  by  those  who  affect  to  believe  that  a  dark 


314  THE  MACASSES.  [1820. 

skin  places  the  wearer  without  the  pale  of  human  charity.  These  peo- 
ple are  harmless,  quiet,  mild,  timid,  and  inoffensive ;  very  affectionate 
towards  each  other,  and  susceptible  of  strong  attachments.  They 
appear  to  possess  very  little  of  the  art,  cunning,  and  ingenuity  so 
t-'onspicuous  in  most  tribes  of  straight-haired  savages,  and  their  indolence 
«eems  to  be  a  disease  of  which  terror  alone  can  cure  them.  Their 
animal  propensities  are  somewhat  swinish — lazy,  gluttonous,  and 
Jilthy ;  and  yet  I  have  reason  to  know  that  they  can  endure  the  crav- 
ings of  hunger  for  a  long  time  without  complaining.  When  the  want 
of  food  becomes  troublesome,  they  seek  consolation  in  sleep,  a  state 
of  negative  enjoyment  very  suitable  to  their  natures.  After  all,  how- 
ever, they  are  much  less  indolent  and  stupid  than  the  tribes  within  the 
limits  of  the  colony  of  the  Gape  of  Good  Hope. 

Tlie  external  appearance  of  these  Hottentots  is  of  course  far  from 
being  prepossessing.  Their  faces  are  very  ugly,  with  high  prominent 
rheek-bones,  and  a  narrow  pointed  chin  ;  long  and  narrow  eyes,  which 
do  not  form  an  acute  angle  at  the  nose,  like  ours,  but  are  rounded 
off  like  those  of  the  Chinese.  The  natural  complexion  of  their  skin 
is  a  yellowish  brown,  very  similar  to  that  of  a  faded  leaf.  They 
liave  very  regular  teeth,  of  the  purest  white,  and  hair  of  a  peculiar 
and  singular  description.  AVhen  suffered  to  grow,  it  spontaneously 
twists  into  small  curls,  which  hang  down  their  necks.  Their  bodies 
are  slender  and  well  proportioned,  with  small  hands  and  feet.  They 
appear  weak  and  imbecile  when  young,  and  prematurely  grow  old ; 
very  few  of  them  reaching  the  age  of  seventy. 

The  females  are  not  so  tall  as  the  males,  and  are  more  delicately 
formed.  Their  lively,  smiling,  good-humoured  faces,  combined  with 
sprightly  movements  and  conciliating  manners,  generally  render  them 
agreeable  to  strangers.  A  physical  peculiarity  in  the  formation  of 
female  Hottentots  is  always  a  subject  of  curiosity  and  inquir}'. 
No  offence  is  taken,  and  the  inquirer  is  readily  furnished  with  ocular 
testimony  of  the  fact.  Their  employments  are  pastoral,  almost  every 
female  being  a  shepherdess,  and  much  attached  to  their  fleecy  charge, 
to  their  cattle,  and  to  their  faithful  dogs. 

Their  dress  consists  of  the  skins  of  animals,  sewed  together  in  the 
shape  of  a  blanket,  and  thrown  loosely  over  their  shoulders  ;  with  an 
apron  made  of  lamb-skin,  about  seven  inches  long,  and  five  broad, 
fastened  to  the  waist  with  a  strip  of  the  gray  fox-skin  with  the  fur 
inside.  They  adorn  these  aprons  with  such  ornaments  as  shells, 
feathers,  ivory,  minerals,  and  any  thing  else  which  they  think  will 
heighten  their  charms  in  the  eyes  of  a  lover.  The  men  paint  their 
faces  with  red  and  yellow  ochre,  and  often  tattoo  their  skins  in  differ-, 
ent  parts. 

Both  sexes  are  very  quick-sighted  in  discovering  game,  or  any 
other  object  at  a  distance.  The  Hottentots  are  good  hunters,  and 
have  a  peculiar  skill  in  taming  wild  animals ;  but  what  is  very  singu- 
lar, though  they  resort  to  the  seacoast  many  times  in  the  course  of  a 
year,  they  have  not  the  least  idea  of  building  canoes,  rafts,  or  bal/as, 
for  the  purpose  of  fishing.     In  hunting,  as  in  war,  they  use  the  bow 


May.]  -  ,  THE  MACASSES.  315 

and  the  spear;  and  the  points  of  their  arrows  are  poisoned,  by  a 
venom  extracted  from  an  insect  of  ihe  spider  class. 

The  females,  like  those  of  more  civilized  countries,  often  resort  to 
charms  and  mysteries,  to  gain  a  fancied  peep  into  futurity,  especially 
relating  to  conjugal  and  maternal  concerns.  The  desire  for  offspring 
seems  to  be  a  universal  sentiment  in  the  female  bosom  ;  and  these 
Hottentot  ladies  evince  it  in  a  singular  manner.  They  catch  a  timid 
little  animal  of  the  lizard  species,  called  the  aselis,  and  stretch  him 
till  the  skin  cracks  in  several  places.  The  number  of  these  cracks 
indicates  the  number  of  children  the  operator  is  to  have.  The  pro- 
pensities of  this  harmless  reptile  are  somewhat  singular.  When 
alarmed,  it  buries  itself  in  the  sand ;  and  if  thrown  into  the  air,  the 
moment  it  falls  it  disappears  under  the  surface  of  the  spot  on  which 
it  descends.  The  chameleon  is  frequently  found  among  the  rocky  cliffs 
in  the  vicinitv  of  this  harbour. 

The  country  of  these  Macasses,  or  rather  Makosses^  has  an  extent 
of  about  thirty  leagues,  north  and  south,  but  double  that  distance  east 
and  west.  Horned  cattle  constitute  their  riches ;  and  they  change  their 
pasturage  as  often  as  circumstances  require  it.  They  are  circumcised 
at  the  age  of  eighteen ;  but  those  travellers  are  mistaken  who  say 
they  do  not  eat  fish,  which  they  take  with  spears  in  a  very  dexterous 
manner.  They  believe  in  magicians,  in  poisoners,  and  in  an  evil 
genius,  who  sends  them  rain,  thunder,  and  storms.  The  sweet  seeds 
of  a  plant  which  grows  rapidly  to  the  height  of  ten  or  twelve  feet 
are  used  by  them  to  make  a  sort  of  cake  ;  another  seed  supplies  them 
■with  an  inebriating  drink.  Those  who  have  two  or  three  thousand 
li€ad  of  cattle  are  not  considered  rich.  Theft  is  punished  by  them 
very  severely. 

I  am  aware  that  in  calling  these  people  Hottentots,  I  differ  from 
those  travellers  who  bound  the  Hottentot  country  on  the  north  by  the 
river  Orange.  But  I  have  ascertained  beyond  the,  possibility  of  a 
doubt,  that  those  invariable  peculiarities  of  personal  formation  which 
constitute  the  Hottentot  proper  are  found  in  every  tribe  of  natives  south 
of  the  twentieth  degree  of  south  latitude.  Among  others,  I  mean  that 
of  the  apro7ij  with  which  the  women  are  actually  furnished  by  modest 
nature.  Mr.  Kolben's  authority  on  this  point  has  been  very  unjustly 
doubted  ;  but  I  can  vouch  for  the  fact,  from  actual  observation,  in  in- 
numerable instances.  Other  characteristic  marks  of  this  peculiar  peo- 
ple are,  the  deep  brown  or  yellow  brown  colour,  which  covers  their 
^vhole  body,  but  docs  not  tinge  the  white  of  their  eyes ;  the  hand  and 
foot  small,  in  proportion  to  the  rest  of  the  body  ;  they  are  straight,  well 
made,  and  tall ;  hair  black  and  curled,  with  scarcely  any  beard.  The 
Hottentot  voice,  also,  is  too  peculiar  to  be  mistaken,  particularly  that 
^  singular  clacking  sound,  which  ever\'  traveller  has  remarked. 

This  coast,  to  the  north  of  the  fourteenth  degree  of  south  latitude, 

'  is  said  to  be  rich  in  shells  of  great  variety  and  peculiar  beauty.     But 

'  I  think  if  the  seacoast  which  fronts  these  sandy  deserts  was  carefully 

examined  by  expert  divers  a  few  fathoms  without  the  surf,  the  largest 

collection  of  valuable  shells  would  be  produced  ever  witnessed  in  any 

part  of  the  world.     The  quantity  is  inexhaustible  ;  but  the  heavy  surf 


316  OGDEN'S  HARBOUR.  [1829. 

thtit  thunders  along  these  shores,  without  cessation,  at  all  seasons  of 
the  year,  prevents  these  beautiful  shells  being  gathered  in  a  perfect 
state,  unless  by  rakes  or  divers  without  tlie  surf 

May  Sth. — On  Tuesday,  the  5th  of  May,  we  got  under  way  and 
steered  to  the  north,  with  a  line  breeze  from  soulh-by-east,  and  fair 
weather.  On  Friday,  the  Sth,  we  passed  Cape  Cross,  which  is  a 
projecting  point,  extending  about  one  mile  into  the  sea,  and  fornaing 
partial  anchorage,  on  its  north  side,  in  from  twelve  to  seven  fathoms 
of  water,  sand  and  coral  bottom.  The  coast  between  this  and  Wal- 
wich  Bay  (Bay  of  Whales)  is  entirely  free  from  dangers  two  cables' 
length  from  the  beach,  with  from  four  to  six  fathoms  of  water,  sand 
and  coral  bottom.  The  coast  is  distinguished  by  white  sand-hills, 
some  of  which  are  moderately  elevated,  and  fall  suddenly  into  the 
sea.  Cape  Cross  is  in  latitude  21°  53'  S.,  long.  13°  41'  E.  Varia- 
tion per  azimuth  20°  15'  westerly. 

We  still  continued  examining  the  coast  to  the  north,  by  daylight, 
lianging  to  windward  at  night,  and  always  starting  in  the  morning 
from  the  place  last  examined.  We  found  the  coast  to  the  north  of 
Cape  Cross  low  and  sandy,  running  into  elevated  mountains  at  a 
short  distance  inland  from  the  shore  of  St.  Amboses,  which  is  in  lati- 
tude 20°  57'  S.,  long.  13°  34' E.  Here  an  extensive  reef  of  coral 
and  lava  rocks  runs  off  in  a  westerly  direction,  to  the  distance  of 
about  three  miles ;  then  turns  to  the  north,  and  runs  parallel  with  the 
coast  for  five  miles ;  forming  a  beautiful  harbour  of  smooth  water, 
which,  at  the  mianimous  request  of  my  crew,  I  named  Ogden's  Har- 
bour, in  honour  of  the  ill-fated  William  Ogden.  At  half-tide,  this  reef 
is  on  a  level  with  the  surface  of  the  sea ;  and  from  its  western  side 
the  water  deepens  so  gradually  that  at  the  distance  of  four  miles  there 
is  not  more  than  five  fathoms,  Avith  foul  ground. 

This  fine  harbour,  or  lagoon,  of  course,  opens  to  the  north,  and  the 
depth  of  water  around  the  northern  end  or  point  of  the  reef,  and  up 
the  lagoon,  is  from  seven  to  four  fathoms,  sand  and  coral  bottom.  In 
entering  it,  however,  a  ship  must  not  come  nearer  than  half  a  mile  of 
the  northern  extremity  of  the  reef;  and  after  bringing  the  northern 
breakers  to  bear  west-south-west,  she  may  haul  to  the  south,  and 
work  as  far  up  the  lagoon  as  is  deemed  requisite,  with  perfect  safety, 
keeping  the  reef  best  on  board.  In  this  lagoon  and  its  vicinity  many 
cargoes  of  fine  fish  might  be  caught,  in  size  and  quality  nearly  equal 
to  our  salmon.  They  may  be  taken  in  any  quantities,  either  with  a 
seine  or  by  a  hook  and  line. 

At  the  distance  of  about  two  leagues  from  the  head  of  this  lagoon, 
in  an  east-north-east  direction,  there  is  a  small  village,  inhabited  by 
about  two  hundred  natives  of  the  Cimbebas  tribe  ;  a  dark  curly-headed 
nation,  differing  but  very  little  from  the  proper  Hottentots.  There 
are  also  many  fine  springs  of  water,  of  an  excellent  quality,  in  the 
valley  where  this  village  is  situated ;  from  which  it  may  be  inferred 
that  this  would  be  a  fine  place  for  a  rendezvous  to  establish  a  trade 
with  the  interior  of  the  country. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  a. vast  field  for  commercial  enterprise 
remains  to  be  explored  in  this  part  of  Africa.     Between  the  northern 


■1*^ 


.  May.]  GREAT  FISH  BAY.  317 

boundary  of  the  Cape  district  and  the  southern  boundary  of  the  Por- 
tuguese district,  there  is  an  immense  waste  of  country,  extending  over 
about  eight  hundred  miles  of  latitude,  and  more  than  twice  that  distance 
of  longitude,  almost  entirely  unknown  to  civilized  man.  I  ardently  hope 
and  trust  that  my  country  will  be  the  first  to  engage  in  exploring  this 
interesting  region  of  the  v/orld,  and  open  its  boundless  stores  of  riches 
to  her  adventurous  sons.  I,  for  one,  should  glory  in  leading  the  way, 
being  perfectly  willing  to  encounter  all  the  personal  hazard  which 
might  attend  a  solitary  pilgrimage  across  the  continent  for  the  purpose 
of  opening  a  permanent  and  lucrative  trade  with  the  different  tribes 
and  nations.  If  the  general  government  withhold  its  patronage  from 
such  a  laudable  undertaking,  a  jomt-stock  company  of  able  capitalists 
would  be  all-sufficient  for  effecting  the  purpose,  and  would  be  morally 
certain  of  golden  returns. 

May  I3th. — The  coast  between  this  place  and  Cape  Frio,  or  Cold 
Cape,  where  we  arrived  on  Wednesday,  the  13th,  is  low  and  sandy, 
with  moderately  elevated  hills  a  few  miles  inland.  There  are  also 
many  shoals  and  reefs,  running  into  the  sea,  from  one  to  two  miles 
ofi-shore.  In  many  places  the  depth  of  water  does  not  exceed  ten 
fathoms,  over  a  bottom  of  sand  and  coral,  five  or  six  miles  from  the 
land.  Cape  Frio  is  in  latitude  18^  22'  S.,  long.  11°  59'  E.  Varia- 
tion per  azimuth  19'^  54'  westerly. 

The  land  of  Cape  Frio  is  high,  and  continues  so  for  six  or  seven 
leagues  to  the  northward  ;  but  the  shore  is  low  and  sandy,  as  it  is  to 
the  southward.  This  cape,  however,  aflbrds  no  shelter  to  ships. 
There  is  said  to  be  a  river  called  L'Angra  Fria,  or  Cold  Creek,  a  few 
miles  to  the  north  of  the  cape ;  but  at  the  time  of  our  passing  this 
place  there  was  no  river  open. 

3Iai/  17 th. — We  continued  steering  to  the  north  until  Sunday,  the 
17th  of  May,  when  we  arrived  at  Great  Fish  Bay  ;  and  at  eleven, 
A.  M.,  anchored  in  three  fathoms  of  water,  near  the  shore,  on  the 
south-west  side  of  the  bay,  sandy  bottom.  The  north  point  of  Tiger 
Peninsula,  which  forms  the  west  side  of  the  bay,  is  in  latitude  16^  30' 
S.,  long.  11^  38'  E.  The  coast  between  this  bay  and  Cape  Frio  is 
a  barren  sandy  desert,  and  entirely  free  from  dangers  one  mile  from 
the  beach ;  but  the  bank  of  soundings  extends  a  long  way  to  the  west- 
ward. The  River  Nourse,  which  was  said  to  have  been  discovered  in 
1824,  by  L'Espiegle,  was  closed  at  the  time  we  passed  this  part  of 
the  coast. 

Fish  Bay  is  formed  on  the  west  by  Tiger  Peninsula,  which  is  very 
low,  and  seven  leagues  in  length  from  north-by-west  to  south-by -east. 
The  greatest  breadth  of  the  bay  is  at  its  entrance,  which  is  more 
than  two  leagues.  The  peninsula  is  all  sand,  and  the  isthmus  by 
which  it  is  joined  to  the  mainland  is  not  more  than  one-quarter  of  u 
mile  broad.  The  eastern  shore  of  the  bay  is  formed  of  high  barren 
hills,  of  a  brown  sandy  appearance.  The  depth  of  water  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  bay  is  sixteen  fathoms,  gradually  decreasing  as  you 
advance  to  the  south,  towards  the  head  of  the  bay,  to  fifteen,  ten, 
seven,  five,  and  three  fathoms,  sandy  bottom  near  the  head  of  the 
bay.     There  are  no  dangers  in  turning  up  tliis  bay,  if  you  give  either 


^^ 


318  CIMBEBAS  TRIBE.  [1829- 

shore  a  distance  of  two  cables'  length ;  and  when  once  at  the  head  of 
this  spacious  harbour,  and  at  anchor  in  five  or  four  fathoms  of  water, 
you  may  lie  in  perfect  safety,  with  one  anchor  ahead,  all  the  year 
round. 

Ships  in  running  along  this  coast  will  often  judge  themselves  farther 
off-shore  than  they  really  are,  on  account  of  the  light  sandy  colour  of 
the  coast,  and  the  extreme  haziness  of  the  atmosphere  tliat  gene,rally 
prevails.  I  would  advise  navigators,  on  all  occasions,  unless  they 
wish  to  make  aliarbour,  to  give  this  coast  a  good  berth,  as  there  is  a 
tremendous  heavy  swell  thundering  in  upon  it  all  the  year  round, 
from  Cape  Negro  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  This  remarkable 
swell,  which  incessantly  sets  in  from  the  west-south-west,  renders  it 
verj-  unpleasant  for  ships  in  calms,  wliich  often  prevail  in  the  night. 
I  have  frequently  seen  these  rollers  break  in  four  fathoms  of  water ; 
and  they  often  threaten  to  break  at  the  distance  of  three  or  four  miles 
from  the  land,  in  seven  and  eight  fathoms  of  water,  near  the  full  and 
change  of  the  moon. 

Fish  Bay  is  one  of  the  first  places  in  the  world  for  fishing  with  a 
seine,  by  which  thousands  of  barrels  of  excellent  fish  may  be  caught 
in  the  course  of  a  year.  This  might  be  made  a  first-rate  business,  by 
taldng  the  fish  to  the  Portuguese  colonies,  a  little  farther  north,  and 
exclianging  them  for  the  products  of  the  country ;  or  they  might  be 
taken  to  St.  Helena,  or  to  the  Brazil  coast,  where  they  would  com- 
mand a  ready  market  and  an  excellent  price. 

May  I8lh. — On  Monday,  at  one,  P.  M.,  we  landed  on  the  south- 
east side  of  the  bay,  with  the  intention  of  making  an  excursion  into 
the  country.  We  were  met  on  the  beach  by  a  small  party  of  the 
Cimbebas  tribe,  who  gave  us  a  very  pressing  invitation  to  accompany 
them  to  their  village,  which  was  about  ten  miles  from  the  coast,  in  the 
direction  of  east-by-south.  It  is  situated  in  a  well-u^atered  valley  of 
three  miles  in  length,  and  two  in  breadth,  surromided  by  moderately 
elevated  hills.  The  springs  which  water  it  are  never  dried  up,  by  the 
longest  drouglits,  as  we  were  assured  by  the  natives. 

The  villages  of  these  people  are  neither  large  nor  populous  ;  never 
exceeding  one  liundred  and  fifty  huts,  and  about  four  hundred  inhabit- 
ants. The  former  are  constructed  of  closely-woven  mats  of  coarse 
grass,  or  of  the  fibres  of  some  plant.  The  two  sides  generally  cor- 
respond with  each  other,  as  do  also  the  two  ends,  with  the  exception 
lliat  there  is  a  door  or  opening  in  one  end,  just  large  enough  for  the 
occupants  to  creep  in  and  out.  Each  hut  is  covered  with  an  arched 
or  sloping  roof,  supported  by  upright  posts  fixed  in  the  ground,  and 
thatched  with  matting.  The  materials  are  all  so  light  that  they  can  be 
removed  at  a  very  short  notice,  and  without  much  trouble.  I  have 
seen  them  taken  down  and  put  together  again  in  thirty-five  minutes. 
The  value  of  one  of  these  huts  is  that  of  a  sheep. 

The  habitations  of  the  chiefs  are  constructed  with  much  more 
la])Our,  skill,  and  taste  ;  and  are  consequently  of  proportionably  greater 
value.  One  of  these  has  eight  or  ten  posts  along  the  sides,  and  is 
covered  with  palm-leaves,  sewed  together  in  a  zigzag  manner,  wiih 
a  supple  creeping  plant.     They  are  often   enclosed  with  a  circular 


■♦•' 


May.]  CIMBEBAS  TRIBE— PORT  ALEXANDER.  ^  319 

fence  of  small  stakes,  stuck  in  the  ground,  so  close  together  that  a 
rabbit  cannot  pass  between  them. 

The  state  of  society,  moral  character,  manners,  habits,  and  customs 
of  this  people  are  in  many  respects  similar  to  those  I  have  already 
described  in  this  chapter ;  and  where  they  differ,  the  balance  is  in 
favour  of  the  Hottentots  of  the  higher  latitude.  These  Cimbebas  are 
much  more  disgustingly  filthy  than  the  otiiers,  both  as  to  clothes  and 
food  ;  but  I  do  not  believe  them  to  be  cannibals,  as  some  voyagers  have 
reported.  They  appear  to  have  no  idea  of  female  chastity,  or  the 
sanctity  of  conjugal  contracts ;  and  the  open  barefaced  manner  in 
which  wives  and  daughters  were  offered  to  my  seamen,  although  I 
strictly  forbade  all  intercourse,  was  too  disgusting  to  admit  of  palliation 
or  excuse. 

We  were  absent  from  the  vessel  more  than  a  week,  penetrating 
many  leagues  into  the  interior,  and  collecting  much  interesting  informa- 
tion tending  to  confirm  my  previous  opinions  of  the  unparalleled  commer- 
cial advantages  which  must  result  from  opening  an  avenue  for  traffic  in 
this  part  of  Africa.  Had  it  been  my  good  fortune  to  have  been  accom- 
panied by  one  or  more  gentlemen  of  science,  the  animal,  vegetable, 
and  mineral  kingdoms  of  this  part  of  Africa  are  teeming  with  new 
and  rich  materials,  sufficient  to  have  employed  their  pens  for  a  length 
of  time.  The  crude  notes  which  I  took  myself  would  afford  very 
little  satisfaction  to  the  erudite  reader ;  I  shall  therefore  proceed  with 
my  narrative,  and  refer  him  to  those  vivid  descriptions  which  other 
travellers  have  already  laid  before  the  public. 

May  21th. — On  Wednesday,  at  two,  P.  M.,  we  returned  to  the  ves- 
sel, and  at  four,  P.  M.,  we  were  under  way,  and  stretcliing  out  of  the 
bay  to  the  north,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  south-south-west,  and  fair 
weather.  We  examined  the  coast  to  Cape  Negro,  and  the  entrance 
of  Port  Alexander,  which  we  found  to  be  a  safe  and  commodious  har- 
bour for  ships  of  any  size,  where  they  may  lie  in  perfect  safety,  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year. 

Port  Alexander  is  admirably  adapted  for  inland  communications  with 
the  natives  ;  and  there  could  not  be  a  better  place  for  jerking  beef 
than  the  peninsula  which  forms  the  west  side  of  the  harbour.  This 
bay  abounds  with  fish  of  various  kinds,  which  may  be  caught  in  any 
quantities  with  a  seine.  Fresh  water  may  be  had  on  the  sq^uth  side  of 
the  bay,  by  digging  a  few  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  earth.  Ships 
that  -anchor  here  will  find  natives,  who  are  very  shy ;  but  with  a  little 
kind  treatment  their  confidence  is  easily  acquired,  and  will  be  followed 
by  acts  of  courtesy  and  hospitality.  Supplies  of  sheep  and  bullocks 
may  be  obtained  of  them  at  your  own  prices.  Their  first  apprehen- 
sion is  that  every  stranger  is  an  enemy  and  a  raan-stealer.  Perish 
the  traffic !  The  outer  part  of  this  bay  is  a  fine  place  for  ships  to 
lie  in  the  month  of  August,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  right  whales. 

The  coast  between  Great  Fish  Bay  and  Port  Alexander  is  clear  of 
dangers  one  mile  from  the  shore.  Neither  are  there  any  dangers  in 
the  way  of  vessels  entering  the  last-mentioned  harbour ;  only  give  the 
sandy  point  of  the  northern  part  of  the  peninsula  a  berth  of  half  a 


r/ 


320  ST.  PHILIP  DE  BE^'GUELA.  [1829. 

mile.     The  entrance  of  Port  Alexander,  or  the  north  point  oi  the  penin- 
sula, is  in  lat.  i^5^  45'  S. 

June  4th. — From  this  port  we  continued  steering  to  the  north,  keep- 
ing the'boats  close  in-shore  to  examine  the  coast,  until  Thursday,  the 
4th  day  of  June ;  wlien,  at  two,  P.  M.,  we  came  to  an  anchor  in  the 
port  of  St.  Phihp  de  Benguela,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  sand  and  muddy 
bottom,  about  half  a  mile  off-shore. 

We  liad  now  reached  the  capital  of  an  African  Idngdom,  the  seat 
of  one  of  her  "  hundred  thrones,"  the  limits  of  whose  territories  have 
never  been  accurately  defined  by  geographers.  Though  formerly 
governed  by  its  own  monarchs,  the  subsequent  incursions  of  the  bar- 
barous Giagas  laid  waste  the  country ;  and  the  protection  of  the  Por- 
tuguese, who  have  built  several  forts  along  the  coast,  has  not  been  able 
to  restore  it  to  its  former  importance. 

The  kingdom  of  Benguela  is  generally  supposed  to  be  bounded  on 
the  north  by  Angola ;  on  the  east  by  the  river  Rimba  ;  on  the  south  by 
Mataman ;  and  on  the  west  by  the  Atlantic.  Its  coast  begins  at  Cape 
Negro  on  the  south,  and  extends  to  Cape  Ledo  on  the  north :  that  is, 
from  lat.  15^  41'  to  9^  20'  S.  Cape  Negro  forms  its  south-Mest  ex- 
tremity, and  is  distinguished  by  a  lofty  pillar  of  marble  or  alabaster, 
on  which  is  displayed  the  armorial  insignia  of  the  Braganza  house. 
This  beautiful  column  was  erected  by  Bartholomew  Dias,  in  the  year 
1486  ;  who  the  same  j'ear  erected  a  marble  cross  on  Pedestal  Point, 
at  Angra  Pequena.  The  principal  towns  of  this  kingdom  are  the  fol- 
lowing : — Old  Benguela,  situated  upon  a  mountain ;  St.  Philip,  or 
New  Benguela,  the  capital,  where  we  now  lay  at  anchor ;  Manikendo, 
and  Kuschil. 

St.  Philip,  the  capital,  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  and  next  in 
consequence  to  St.  Paul  de  Loando,  the  capital  of  Angola.  I  am 
sorry  to  add  that  its  principal  business  had  heretofore  been  a  traffic  . 
in  human  flesh — being  frequented  by  the  Brazilians  for  the  purchase 
of  slaves,  who  are  collected  like  cattle  in  the  interior,  and  driven  down 
to  the  coast  for  sale.  At  the  period  of  our  arrival  there  were  no 
less  than  four  Brazilian  brigs  nearly  loaded  with  these  unhappy  human 
beings. 

From  Cape  Negro  a  range  of  mountains  extends  northward,  giving 
existence  to  the  springs  of  many  fine  rivers ;  such  as  the  Nika,  St. 
Francisco,  Moreno,  Farsa,  Kuneni,  and  Canton-belle.  The  water  of 
the  last  of  these  rivers  is  of  a  strong  saline  quality,  and  is  collected 
into  pits  by  the  natives,  for  the  purpose  of  manufacturing  salt.  The 
mouth  of  this  river,  which  is  sheltered  from  the  winds,  is  about  sixteen 
feet  deep.  On  its  north  the  sea  forms  a  gulf,  which  the  Dutch  call 
Good  Bay,  on  account  of  its  being  an  excellent  w'atering-place. 

The  natural  productions  of  this  province  are  similar  to  those  of 
Angola  and  Congo ;  while  vegetables  and  fruits  of  many  different  cli- 
mates have  been  naturalized,  and  flourish  exuberantly.  The  country 
immediately  surrounding  St.  Philip  abounds  with  oranges,  pineapples, 
melons,  plantains,  bananas,  palms,  dates,  cocoanuts,  guavas,  figs, 
grapes,  and  a  variety  of  other  fruits.  The  vine  flourishes  finely,  form- 
ing natural  arbours  and  alleys  to  shelter  you  from  the  fervid  rays  of 


June.l  ST.  PHILIP'S  BONNET.  *»32I 

an  African  sun.     Cassia  and  tamarinds  also  flourish ;  and  from  the 
humidity  of  the  soil,  there  are  two  fruit  seasons  in  the  year. 

In  entering  the  port  of  St.  Phihp  de  Benguela,  the  town  and  inland 
comitry  present  a  beautiful  appearance.  The  houses  of  the  town  have 
all  whitewashed  walls  and  red  roofs,  which  give  them  a  very  gay  and 
picturesque  appearance  from  the  offing,  and  also  from  the  anchorage. 
The  shores  around  the  bay  are  low^  and  sandy,  with  the  exception  of 
the  westernmost  point,  which  is  composed  of  white  sandy  cliffs.  But 
'vvhen  we  look  eastwardly  to  the  inland  countr}-,  the  scenery  is  charm- 
ing. Ranges  of  verdant  hills,  on  which  blooming  spring  for  ever 
smiles,  gradually  rise  above  each  other,  while  wood-crowned  moun- 
tains rear  their  majestic  heads  in  the  distance,  and  give  a  sublime 
linish  to  the  beautiful  picture. 

The  most  remarkable  feature  presented  to  the  view  of  the  marinery. 
however,  is  the  summit  of  an  elevated  bluff  headland  on  the  west  point 
of  the  bay,  called  by  the  Portuguese  Ponta  do  Chapeo ;  but  known  to 
seamen  by  the  familiar  term  of  St.  Philip's  Bonnet.  It  is  a  clump  of 
trees,  which  grow  so  thick  and  close  together  that  they  seem  to  have 
been  cut  with  a  pruning-knife  into  the  shape  of  a  boeuffetiers  bonnet ; 
and  though  they  are  very  luxuriant,  all  the  neighbourhood  below  is 
■quite  barren.  The  head  which  wears  this  bonnet  is  a  point  of  land  so 
much  elevated  that  it  can  be  seen,  in  clear  weather,  at  the  distance  of 
twelve  or  fifteen  leagues.  It  is  composed  of  materials  like  those  of 
the  cliff  below — granite,  sandstone,  slate,  &:c. 

St.  Philip's  Bonnet  and  the  town  of  Benguela  are  nearly  on  the 
same  parallel,  at  the  distance  of  about  six  miles  from  each  other ;  but 
the  bay,  from  its  extreme  eastern  and  western  points,  is  seven  or  eight 
miles  broad,  and  three  miles  deep  to  the  beach.  Within  the  transit 
line  of  the  two  points,  and  more  than  half-way  over  to  the  east,  the 
depth  of  water  is  seventeen  fathoms,  which  gradually  decreases  to  six 
fathoms,  within  one  mile  of  the  shore,  mud  and  clay  bottom,  with  the 
flag-staff  and  the  church  in  a  line,  which  is  the  best  anchorage  for 
ships.  Smaller  vessels,  however,  had  better  lie  closer  in-shore,  in  four 
fathoms  of  water. 

At  this  place  you  will  have  the  regular  land  and  sea-breezes  for  the 
greater  part  of  the  year  round.  The  sea-breezes  blow  from  west-by- 
north  to  west-by-south,  when  the  land-winds  blow  from  south-east  to 
east-south-east,  but  very  light.  The  former  never  come  in  with  suffi- 
cient force  to  render  it  unpleasant  for  vessels  of  any  class  to  ride  at 
anchor,  which  they  can  do  in  perfect  safety  air  the  year  round ;  but 
these  winds  often  bring  in  a  heavy  westerly  swell,  w4iich  at  times  ren- 
ders landing  unsafe.  The  landing  is  near  a  large  boat-house,  on  the 
beach,  in  front  of  the  town,  at  the  water's  edge ;  and  passengers  are 
generally  carried  by  the  natives  from  the  boat  to  the  beach,  in  order 
to  prevent  their  getting  wet. 

The  town  of  Benguela  is  irregularly  built  along  the  curve  of  the 
beach,  perhaps  three  hundred  yards  from  the  water.  It  consists  of 
about  two  hundred  houses,  mostly  of  one  story  and  a  half,  with  a 
population  not  exceeding  twelve  hundred  souls,  of  which  two  hundred 
are  Portuguese,  who  lead  a  very  indolent  kind  of  life.     Immediately 

X  * 


822  BAHIA  DAS  VAC  AS.  [1829. 

in  front  of  the  anchorage  stands  the  fort  of  St.  Phihp,  mounting  tliirty- 
six  guns ;  to  the  westward  of  it,  at  tlie  edge  of  the  beach,  is  a  small 
five-gun  battery,  and  north  of  Fort  St.  Phihp  is  a  battery  of  eighteen 
guns.  All  these  fortifications,  however,  are  so  much  out  of  order,  that 
were  a  ten-gun  brig  to  open  her  fire  upon  the  town  for  ten  minutes,  the 
inhabitants  would  fly  without  firing  a  gun. 

No  good  water  can  be  obtained  here,  except  in  the  rainy  season  ;  at 
all  other  times  it  is  extremely  brackish,  and  very  unwholesome.  Neitlier 
can  it  be  procured,  such  as  it  is,  without  considerable  labour  and  diffi- 
culty ;  the  fatigue  of  rolling  the  casks  one-third  of  a  mile,  and  then 
bailing  the  water  out  of  wells.  Provisions,  however,  and  refreshments 
of  almost  every  kind  are  readily  obtained.  Bullocks,  sheep,  goats, 
hogs,  poultry,  fruit,  and  vegetables  may  be  had  in  any  quantities,  and 
at  very  moderate  prices.  You  may  also,  at  almost  any  time  of  the 
year,  find  a  ready  market  here  for  a  quantity  of  domestic  goods,  at  a 
liberal  price  ;  and  purchase  in  exchange  hides  of  difl'erent  kinds,  ivory, 
ostrich  feathers,  and  gold-dust.  The  bay  affords  excellent  fishing  with 
a  seine,  and  very  fine  sport  with  a  hook  and  line. 

This  bay  is  sometimes  called  Cow's  Bay  {Bahia  das  Vacas),  on 
account  of  the  vast  number  of  sea-cows  which  used  to  frequent  it  in 
former  times.  The  chief  value  of  these  animals  is  their  ivory  tusks, 
■Y/hich,  being  harder  than  those  of  the  elephant,  and  not  so  liable  to 
turn  yellow,  are  much  more  esteemed  by  dentists.  Their  hides 
are  also  valuable  for  harness  leather,  and  the  skins  of  the  young  ones 
make  very  handsome  coverings  for  trunks. 

The  land  in  the  bottom  of  the  bay  is  double,  high,  ragged,  and  prin- 
cipally barren  near  the  shore  ;  but  the  valley  immediately  back  of  the 
town  is  rich  in  soil,  and  exceedingly  fertile,  yielding  an  abundance  of 
fruit  of  difierent  kinds,  and  of  an  excellent  quality,  A  great  quantity 
of  corn  and  beans  is  raised  near  the  Bay  of  Cows,  and  tlie  inhabitants 
rear  cattle  of  the  best  kind  in  great  numbers.  They  also  gather  a 
iiind  of  odoriferous  wood  called  kakongo,  which  is  held  in  high  esti- 
mation. Mines  of  copper  are  said  to  exist  in  the  vicinity  of  the  baj'', 
and  the  mountains  are  supposed  to  contain  silver.  The  mountainous 
districts  swarm  with  wild  beasts  of  various  kinds. 

Most  travellers  agree  in  pronouncing  the  climate  of  Benguela  ex- 
tremely insalubrious  to  strangers  ;  but  this,  in  my  opinion,  is  greatly 
owing  to  their  not  paying  proper  attention  to  diet  and  regimen.  The 
4ate  visitation  of  the  cholera  has  taught  the  world  a  useful  lesson  on 
•this  subject ;  and  we  now  know  by  experience  that  the  great  secret  of 
preserving  health  is  "  moderation  in  all  things  ;"  temperance  in  eating, 
t-'lothing,  and  exercise,  as  well  as  in  drinking ;  abstinence  from  ex- 
cesses of  all  kinds.  By  acting  on  this  principle,  every  climate  will  be 
found  comparatively  salubrious,  and  its  atmosphere  may  be  inhaled 
with  impunity.  Far  be  it  from  me  to  invade  the  province  of  the 
/medical  faculty ;  but  it  is  my  deliberate  opinion,  founded  on  careful 
observation,  and  confirmed  by  experience,  that  more  diseases  are 
caused  by  bad  water  than  by  bad  air;  and  I  would  advise  all  stran- 
gers who  visit  this  particular  part  of  the  African  coast,  to  be  very 
cautious  of  driiiking  the  water,  uidess  it  be  procured  at  a  considerable 


June.]  BENGUELA— DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  COAST.  323 

distance  from  the  shore.  A  neglect  of  this  caution  is  generally  fol- 
lowed by  a  severe  and  dangerous  diarrhoea  or  flux,  especially  with 
those  who  eat  freely  of  fruit,  and  make  too  liberal  use  of  ardent  spirits 
at  the  same  time.  But  by  taking  their  water  from  the  inland  moun- 
tain springs,  and  avoiding  exposure  to  noonday  suns  and  nocturnal 
damps,  with  sufficient  employment  to  keep  up  a  gentle  perspiration, 
they  will  experience  little  inconvenience  from  the  climate  of  Ben- 
guela. 

The  wild  animals  that  inhabit  the  interior  are  often  seen  in  the 
forests  that  border  this  part  of  the  coast ;  such  as  elephants,  leopards, 
zebras,  lions,  foxes,  hyenas,  antelopes  of  many  kinds,  buffaloes,  bul- 
locks, sheep,  goats,  wild  hogs,  and  a  great  variety  of  monkeys  and 
other  small  animals.  I  have  often  seen  the  elephant,  buffalo,  and  bul- 
lock near  the  beach  of  the  seashore,  between  this  place  and  Great 
Fish  Bay.  In  the  interior  districts  the  variety  of  beasts,  birds,  ser- 
pents, and  other  reptiles,  insects,  and  plants  is  truly  wonderful,  I  had 
almost  said  infinite,  and  well  worth  the  attention  of  naturalists.  Some 
philosophers  maintain  that  for  every  passion,  propensity,  disposition, 
desire,  affection,  or  thought  of  the  human  mind,  there  is  in  outward 
nature  a  corresponding  animal,  vegetable,  and  mineral,  good  or  bad ; 
and  that  all  things  which  exist  in  external  nature  are  intended  as  out- 
ward manifestations  of  mental  or  moral  attributes.  If  this  be  indeed 
the  case,  Africa  must  comprise  a  strange  mixture  of  good  and  evil, 
truth  and  error,  in  the  minds  of  her  sable  population,  where  heaven 
and  hell  must  be  commingled  in  chaotic  confusion.  But  I  must  leave 
this  subject  to  the  learned ;  my  province  being  to  point  out  nautical 
dangers,  and  teach  others  how  to  shun  them. 

There  are  many  fine  anchoring  places  between  Benguela  and  Port 
Alexander,  of  which  I  will  mention  the  most  conspicuous.  Point 
Salinas,  which  lies  in  latitude  12°  53'  S.,  long.  12^  5J'  E.,  is  dis- 
tinguished by  salt-ponds,  which  are  near  the  seashore.  This  point 
runs  about  four  miles  into  the  sea,  with  a  reef  rimning  from  it  ofl-shore 
about  one  mile. 

Between  this  and  Point  St.  Francisco  the  shores  are  bold,  having 
no  dangers  more  than  half  a  mile  off-shore,  until  you  come  up  with  the 
Fritns,  which  are  three  rocks,  standing  about  two  miles  off-shore,  a 
little  to  the  north  of  the  last-mentioned  point,  between  which  and  the 
Friars  there  is  good  anchorage.  But  off-shore  from  this  point  there  is 
an  extensive  reef,  running  into  the  sea,  with  hidden  dangers,  on  which 
the  sea  does  not  always  break.  In  doubling  this  point,  ships  should 
give  it  a  berth  of  two  miles. 

The  river  St.  Nicholas  has  a  reef  on  the  south  of  its  entrance,  which 
is  in  latitude  14°  20'  S.,  with  not  more  than  ten  feet  of  water  on  it,  at  a 
mile  and  a  half  off-shore.  Five  leagues  farther  south  is  a  small  bay, 
called  by  some  Village  Bay,  in  which  there  is  good  anchorage,  in  from 
ten  to  four  fathoms  of  water,  about  one  mile  in  a  northerly  direction 
from  the  south  point  of  the  bay,  in  sandy  bottom.  At  this  place  I  have 
seen  elephants  and  other  animals,  besides  numbers  of  the  natives. 

Still  farther  south,  in  latitude  15°  12',  is  Little  Fish  Bay,  the  entrance 
of  which  is  two  leagues  broad,  formed  by  Cape  Euspa  on  the  north 

X2 


324  VISIT  TO  A  SLAVE  BRIG.  [1829. 

and  Browne's  Point  on  the  south.  Here  the  water  is  deep  ;  but  as  we 
advance  into  the  bay,  it  suddenly  becomes  more  shallow,  until  it  is  re- 
duced to  twenty  fathoms ;  it  then  lessens  gradually  to  six  or  eight 
fathoms. 

Half  a  mile  from  the  head  of  this  bay,  on  its  south  shore,  is  a  deep 
valley,  which  is  covered  with  a  forest  of  large  timber,  in  the  openings 
of  which  vegetation  appeared  very  luxuriant.  At  the  mouth  of  a  small 
river  which  empties  into  the  head  of  this  bay,  we  saw  elephants,  and 
freely  communicated  with  the  natives,  who  were  very  anxious  to  open 
a  trade  with  us,  by  exchanging  cattle,  sheep,  hogs,  and  vegetables,  for 
cutlery  of  any  kind,  beads,  and  old  clothes,  particularly  red  flannel 
shirts. 

The  next  conspicuous  land  to  the  south  is  Cape  Negro,  before  men- 
tioned, in  latitude  15*=*  41' S.,  long.  11°  57'  E.,  on  which  is  erected  the 
celebrated  alabaster  pillar,  with  the  arms  of  Portugal ;  and  eight  miles 
south-west-by-south  from  this  cape  is  the  entrance  to  the  port  of  Alex- 
ander, already  described. 

In  speaking  of  the  Bay  of  Cows,  at  Benguela,  I  ought  to  have 
added  that  a  sand-bank  puts  off  from  the  north  point  of  the  bay  to  the 
distance  of  one  mile,  which  it  is  necessary  to  avoid,  as  there  is  always 
a  swell  rolling  in  upon  it,  with  a  considerable  degree  of  violence.  The 
south  and  west  sides  of  the  bay  are  entirely  clear  of  dangers  two 
cables'  length  from  the  shore. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Visit  to  a  Slave  Brig — Cruelty  and  Suffering — Slaves  flogged  to  Death — Strength 
of  conjugal  Affection  in  an  African — An  affecting  Scene — Beard  the  Tigers  in 
their  Den — Cowardice  of  Guilt — How  to  abolish  the  Slave-trade — English 
Colony  of  SierraLeone — United  States'  Colony  of  Liberia — Sail  from  Benguela — 
Homeward-bound — Island  of  Ascension — The  Fourth  of  July,  and  a  vertical  Sun 
— Arrive  at  New-York — Kind  Reception  by  the  Owners,  and  a  still  kinder  one 
by  somebody  else. 

I  HAVE  already  informed  the  reader,  that  when  I  entered  the  Bay  of 
Benguela  there  were  no  less  than  four  slave  dealers  from  Brazil,  wait- 
ing to  complete  their  cargoes.  One  of  these  receptacles  of  human 
misery  lay  at  anchor  within  fifty  fathoms  of  the  Antarctic  ;  and  I  was 
so  distressingly  annoyed  by  the  shrieks  and  groans  of  its  hapless  in- 
mates, the  wretched  victims  of  unfeeling  avarice,  that  I  resolved  to  visit 
the  vessel,  and  make  an  offer  of  such  medical  aid  as  might  have  a 
tendency  to  alleviate  the  anguish  of  the  sufferers.  With  this  determina- 
tion I  ordered  a  boat  to  be  manned,  and  boarded  the  brig  without 
ceremony. 

i     I  was  received  by  the  officers  on  deck  with  a  certain  degree  of 
courtesy,  not  unmingled  with  surprise  ;  which,  when  I  made  known  the 
object  of  my  visit,  assumed  an  expression  of  derision  or  contempt. 
Firmly  adhering  to  my  original  purpose,  however,  I  insisted  upon 


June.]  HORRID  BARBARITY.  325 

seeing  and,  if  necessar}%  administering  to  those  sufferers  whose  audible 
complaints  had  so  powerfully  excited  my  sympathy.  The  captain, 
gave  orders  that  my  demand  should  be  complied  with  ;  and,  gracious 
Heaven  !  what  a  horrible  spectacle  was  presented  to  my  view  ! 

If  the  reader  has  ever  been  on  board  of  a  Hudson  River  market- 
sloop,  loaded  with  calves  and  sheep  for  the  city  slaughter-houses,  he 
may  form  some  faint  idea  of  this  Brazilian  slave  brig.  A  range  of 
pens,  or  bins,  occupied  each  side  of  the  main-deck,  from  the  cat-head  to 
the  main-chains,  in  which  were  confined  such  a  number  of  the  slaves 
as  were  permitted  to  come  upon  deck  at  one  time.  In  a  line  with  the 
main  hatchway,  on  each  side,  was  erected  a  bulkhead,  or  partition, 
separating  the  men  from  the  women  ;  while  a  narrow  passage  remained 
open  to  the  gangway,  abaft  the  sternmost  pen,  or  between  that  and  the 
quarter-deck. 

The  slaves,  perfectly  naked,  were  stowed  in  rows,  fore  and  aft,  in  a 
sitting  or  crouching  posture;  and  most  of  the  men  had  their  faces  be- 
tween their  knees,  either  indulging  in  a  moody  silence,  or  mournfully 
chanting,  in  a  low  voice,  some  plaintive  song  of  their  native  villages. 
The  feelings  of  the  females  were  of  course  more  clamorously  ex- 
pressed, in  spite  of  all  their  tyrants'  exertions  to  keep  them  quiet.  In 
passing  along  the  deck  between  these  two  ranges  of  despairing  human 
beings,  I  encountered  such  mute  imploring  glances,  such  appealing 
looks  of  misery,  such  piteous  supplicating  expressions  of  countenance, 
such  torrents  of  tears,  that  looked  like  pearls  on  ebony,  as  completely 
and  totally  unmanned  me.  My  ow'n  tears  fell  like  rain,  and  the  poor 
negroes  gazed  on  the  strange  phenomenon  of  a  whhe  man's  sympathy 
with  wonder,  doubt,  and  admiration.  Even  the  females  had  not  been 
allowed  a  rag  to  cover  their  nakedness. 

After  having  taken  a  cursory  view  of  the  whole  heart-sickening 
scene,  my  attention  vv  as  attracted  to  the  after  range  of  pens  on  the  star- 
board side,  which  contained  about  one-half  the  females  then  on  deck. 
Here,  as  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  deck,  the  two  sexes  were  separated 
by  a  partition  or  bulkhead  eight  feet  in  height ;  near  which  were  two 
women  evidently  writhing  in  the  agonies  of  death.  Partly  from  the 
officers,  and  partly  from  their  fellow-sufferers,  I  gathered  the  shameful 
facts  that  these  two  dying  wretches  had  been  reduced  to  their  present 
situation  by  repeated  applications  of  the  lash,  as  a  punishment  for  their 
piteous  cries  and  heart-rending  wailings.  This  worse  than  savage 
brutality  had  elicited  those  shrieks  and  groans  which  first  arrested  my 
attention  on  board  the  Antarctic.  They  were  wives  and  mothers ; 
their  infants  had  been  torn  from  their  breasts  and  thrown  upon  the 
ground,  either  to  perish  with  hunger  among  the  grass,  or  to  become 
the  prey  of  beasts,  or  the  victims  of  venomous  reptiles — or,  possibly, 
to  be  preserved  and  nourished  by  strangers.  In  the  phrensied  paroxysms 
of  maternal  anguish,  they  had  called  for  their  infants — for  their  hus- 
bands— for  their  parents — for  their  brothers,  sisters,  and  friends ;  and 
for  this  natural  involuntary  ebullition  of  feehng,  their  bodies  had  been 
cruelly  lacerated  with  stripes,  until  nature  sank  exhausted,  no  more  to 
revive.  Their  breasts  were  distended  with  the  undrawn  nutriment  for 
the  lack  of  which  their  helpless  babes  perhaps  were  perishing — it 


326  AFFECTING  SCENE.  [182&. 

was  oozing  in  streams  from  their  nipples,  mingled  Avitli  their  own 
blood. 

On  learning  these  facts,  indignation  enabled  me  to  suppress  those 
softer  feelings  which  were  before  nearly  choking  me  ;  while  the  hard- 
ened barbarians  around  me  wore  sardonic  smiles  upon  their  faces. 
The  captains  of  two  vessels  were  present,  and  several  oflicers.  For 
the  moment,  I  impiously  wished  to  be  armed  with  tlio  lightnings  of 
heaven,  to  punish  the  guilty,  and  terminate  the  sufterings  of  their  victims 
on  die  spot.  As  this  was  not  practicable,  however,  I  gave  vent  to  my 
feelings  in  a  torrent  of  invective,  pouring  upon  them  volleys  of  vitupera- 
tion. I  cannot  recollect  what  I  said ;  but  for  some  time  I  gave  them 
broadside  after  broadside,  without  receiving  a  single  shot  in  return. 
They  received  my  fire  in  silent  astonishment,  suffering  me  to  rake  them 
fore  and  aft,  until  my  magazine  became  exhausted,  and  I  paused  for 
lack  of  ammunition. 

In  the  mean  time,  the  two  especial  objects  of  my  compassion  were 
released  from  their  suilerings  by  death  ;  and  just  as  the  visiting  captain 
had  commenced  some  observation  in  excuse  or  palliation  of  their  con- 
duct, our  attention  was  arrested  by  another  object.  One  of  the  male 
captives,  a  well-made,  good-looking  man,  of  about  twenty-five  years  of 
age,  had  contrived,  all  manacled  as  he  was,  to  scale  the  bulkhead,  from 
the  top  of  which,  being  unable  to  use  his  arms,  he  fell  into  the  females* 
apartment,  where  his  head  struck  a  ring-bolt  with  such  force  as  to 
fracture  his  scull.  It  was  the  husband  of  the  youngest  of  the  two  women 
who  had  just  breathed  their  last.  For  a  few  moments  he  lay  sense- 
less from  the  effects  of  the  blow  ;  but  soon  came  to  himself  sufficiently 
to  understand  what  was  said  to  him.  In  the  next  moment  he  recog- 
nised the  dead  body  of  his  wife,  which  he  franticly  strove  to  clasp  in 
his  manacled  arms  ;  and,  with  a  yell  of  despair,  endeavom-ed  to  awaken 
her  with  his  caresses  from  the  sleep  of  death,while  the  wound  in  his  head 
was  pouring  forth  a  torrent  of  blood  on  the  inanimate  object  of  his 
piteous  lamentations. 

The  captain  of  the  brig  now  spoke,  and  ordered  one  of  the  officers 
to  tear  the  poor  fellow  from  the  corpse  of  his  wife,  and  to  stow  him  on 
the  other  side  of  the  deck.  He  raised  his  mute-imploring  eye  to  me, 
in  which  I  read  a  speedy  termination  of  his  miseries,  and  an  ardent 
desire  to  expire  on  the  bosom  of  his  wife.  The  officer  advanced  to 
seize  him  ;  but  this  was  too  much  for  me  to  witness.  I  sprang  before 
the  dying  man,  drew  my  dirk,  and  ordered  the  officer  to  desist  on  the 
peril  of  instant  death. 

"  Hold  !"  I  exclaimed,  "  you  shall  not  molest  him.  Back !  back  ! 
on  your  life  !  No  man  shall  touch  him,  unless  he  cut  his  way  through 
my  body.  You  have  butchered  the  wife  of  his  bosom ;  he  is  now 
dying  from  the  effects  of  your  savage  barbarity  ;  and  they  shall  not  be 
separated,  until  his  spirit  is  reunited  to  hers,  in  that  blessed  world 
where  fiends  of  hell  like  you  can  never  come.  Back  !  or  your  blood 
shall  mingle  with  the  negroe's  !" 

The  officer  recoiled  a  few  paces,  while  the  others  stood  gazing  at 
me  and  each  other  in  mute  amazement.  I  stood  fixed  in  my  purpose^ 
however ;  and  not  one  of  the  conscience-struck,  guilt-appalled,  cowardly 


June.]  SLAVE  TRADE.  327 

wretches,  nor  the  whole  combined,  could  muster  up  sufficient  courage 
to  oppose  my  single  arm.  Tlie  dying  captive's  struggle  was  short. 
In  a  lew  minutes  more  he  breathed  his  last,  on  the  cold  inanimate  lips 
of  her  he  loved  more  than  he  feared  death.  I  then  returned  my  Uirk 
into  its  sheath,  and  again  addressed  the  embarrassed  officers  : 

-  *•  Step  forward,  inhuman  monsters  !  and  contemplate  the  effects  of 
your  savage  barbarity — your  triple  murder.  Look  there  !  on  the  re- 
mains of  those  three  poor  victims  of  your  avarice  and  cruelty  !  Think 
too  of  their  hapless  infants  ;  which,  if  not  happily  already  gone  to  meet 
their  parents  in  a  better  world,  are  fated  never  to  enjoy  a  parent's  tender- 
ness in  this.  How  will  you  answer  for  crimes  like  these  before  the 
God  of  justice  ?  I  do  not  marvel  at  your  cowardice,  for  it  is  the  in« 
separable  concomitant  of  guilt  like  yours.  I  do  not  wonder  that  yon 
turn  pale  at  my  just  rebuke,  and  tremble  there  like  culprits  at  the  gang- 
way. But  how  much  more  will  you  tremble  when  you  are  arraigned 
before  the  bar  of  Divine  Justice,  and  hear  that  voice  which  brought  the 
universe  into  existence  pronounce  the  awful  sentence — '  Inasmuch  as 
ye  have  not  shown  mercy  to  one  of  the  least  of  these,  ye  have  not  done 
it  unto  me.' " 

With  these  words  I  advanced  to  the  gangway,  and  was  about  to  de* 
part,  when  the  captain  of  the  brig  expressed  a  hope  that  I  would  not 
leave  them  in  anger,  but  that  I  would  walk  below,  and  join  them  in  zr 
glass  of  wine.  I  promptly  declined  the  proffered  courtesy,  assuring 
him  that  it  gave  me  very  unpleasant  feelings  to  breathe  the  same  air 
wuth  men  engaged  in  this  abominable  traffic  ;  but  were  I  to  drink  with 
them,  I  should  feel  guilty  of  an  act  of  wanton  impiety  that  had  stained 
the  untarnished  lustre  of  the  flag  I  sailed  under. 

They  retorted,  with  a  most  provoking  assurance,  that  great  numbers- 
of  American  vessels  were  at  that  moment  engaged  in  the  same  traffic ; 
vessels  wliich  they  knew  were  owned  by  citizens  of  the  United  States, 
commanded  by  American  captains,  and  manned  by  American  and 
English  seamen. 

I  made  no  reply,  but  stepped  into  my  boat,  and  was  soon  on  board 
the  Antarctic,  with  food  for  reflection  sufficient  to  last  me  during  th& 
passage  from  Africa  to  America.  Nor  was  this  the  only  revolting 
scene  I  was  doomed  to  witness,  connected  with  this  infamous  system 
of  piracy,  while  I  was  detained  at  Benguela.  Being  on  shore  on  Fri- 
day, the  5th  of  June,  I  saw  about  fifty  of  these  unhappy  beings  hand- 
cuffed in  pairs,  and  drove  into  town  like  so  many  yoke  of  cattle,  h^ 
soldiers  on  horseback.  As  the  poor  wretches  passed  me,  I  could  sec 
the  traces  of  tears  on  ahnost  every  cheek,  and  from  some  eyes  they 
were  streaming  in  torrents.  They  had  been  driven  so  far,  and  with  so 
little  mercy,  that  many  of  them  were  quite  lame,  their  foot-prints  being 
marked  with  blood  !  But  still,  if  any  of  them  faltered  or  lagged  a  little 
behind  the  rest,  their  inhuman  drivers  would  start  them  up  again  by 
several  severe  cuts  of  the  lash  on  their  naked  bodies,  with  as  much 
unconcern  as  if  they  were  driving  so  many  bullocks  to  market. 

How  is  this  horrible  traffic  to  be  finally  and  totally  abolished  ?  This 
is  a  question  of  vital  importance  to  the  cause  of  humanity.  The 
United  States,  in  conjunction  with  England  and  France,  have  effectetl 


328  SIERRA  LEONE  COLONY.  [1829. 

much  ;  but  much  more  yet  remains  to  be  done.  The  root,  the  source, 
the  foundation  of  the  evil  is  in  the  ignorance  and  superstition  of  the 
poor  negroes  themselves.  Could  they  become  only  partially  civilized, 
and  sufficiently  enlightened  to  see  the  beauty  of  the  plainest  moral 
precepts  of  our  religion,  they  would  no  longer  feel  themselves  obligated 
to  obey  llie  unjust  mandates  of  a  ruthless  despot,  who  levies  war  on 
his  neighbours,  not  for  any  real  or  imaginary  injury  received,  but  for 
the  sole  purpose  of  raising  a  revenue  by  the  sale  of  his  captives. 
This  state  of  things  can  only  be  brought  about  by  the  labours  of  mis- 
sionaries, patiently  pursued  for  a  series  of  years. 

However  severe  the  edicts  which  nations  maj'  pass  against  the 
slave-trade,  they  will  never  deter  from  engaging  in  it  a  certain  class  of 
reckless  adventurers  which  are  found  in  every  country  ;  M'hose  mollo 
is  "  Neck  or  nothing."  They  are  willing  to  run  the  risk  of  dying  the 
death  of  pirates,  in  consideration  of  the  immense  emolument  which 
attends  a  successful  issue  of  the  perilous  enterprise.  Like  every 
species  of  smuggled  goods,  slaves  will  always  find  a  ready  market, 
and  a  price  proportionably  high  to  the  hazard  of  introducing  them  ; 
and  so  long  as  a  door  remains  open  for  disposing  of  human  beings,  the 
progress  of  reform  in  this  particular  will  be  very  slow. 

It  is  comparatively  of  but  little  use  to  lock  up  the  mouths  of  the 
Senegal,  the  Gambia,  the  Zaire,  the  Coanza,  and  the  Cameroon's,  or 
any  other  river  of  Africa,  while  the  whole  extent  of  coast  remains  open, 
and  may  be  landed  on  at  different  seasons  of  tlie  year.  Nothing  but 
a  total  unqualified  prohibition  of  this  soul-debasing  traffic  by  every 
power  in  both  hemispheres,  particularly  by  those  of  South  America, 
can  afford  any  rational  hope  of  its  final  abolition.  And  even  then, 
there  is  too  much  reason  to  fear  that  men-stealers  will  still  exist,  and 
that  planters  will  be  found  of  natures  sufficiently  diabolical  to  reward 
them  for  their  labours  of  barbarity. 

England  and  the  United  States  have  set  the  world  some  glorious 
examples  on  this  important  subject.  The  colony  of  the  former  at 
Sierra  Leone,  and  that  of  the  latter  at  Liberia,  on  the  west  coast  of 
Africa,  are  both  in  a  flourishing  condition ;  and  their  projectors  and 
founders  merit  the  prayers  and  blessings  of  philanthropists  in  every  sec- 
tion of  the  globe.  Sierra  Leone  lies  between  the  seventh  and  tenth 
degrees  of  north  latitude,  and  derived  its  name  from  mountains  abound- 
ing with  lions.  This  is  the  nearest  point  of  the  African  coast  to  the 
most  western  point  of  South  America,  on  the  Brazilian  coast,  the  dis- 
tance from  Pernambuco  to  Sierra  Leone  hein^  onlv  about  five  hundred 
leagues. 

The  English  settlement  of  Sierra  Leone  was  formed  in  the  year 
1787,  for  the  express  purpose  of  labouring  to  civilize  the  Africans.  In 
1825,  four  years  previous  to  my  visiting  Benguela,  it  contained  eighteen 
thousand  inhabitants  ;  of  whom  about  twelve  thousand  consist  of  lib- 
erated Africans,  who  for  the  most  part  occupy  the  parishes  in  the 
mountains,  where  they  inhabit  villages,  surrounded  by  tracts  of  culti- 
vated ground,  and  containing  schools  for  both  sexes.  In  this  quarter 
the  English  have  made  the  greatest  exertions  to  limit,  if  not  to  abolish, 
the  trade  in  slaves  ;  but,  in  the  language  of  M.  Malte  Brun,  "  philan- 


June.l  COLONY  OF  LIBERIA.  329 

thropy,  and  penal  statutes,  and  vigilance  have  been  found  but  feeble 
barriers,  when  opposed  to  the  cupidity  of  unprincipled  traders." 

The  British  cruisers  have  been  very  active  and  successful  in  cap- 
turing many  of  the  slave-ships  which  still  swarm  upon  the  African 
coast,  as  appears  by  the  great  number  of  liberated  slaves  which  are 
every  year  added  to  the  colony.  The  landing  of  these  cargoes,  ac- 
cording to  the  writer  just  quoted,  is  often  a  very  affecting  scene.  The 
poor  creatures  delivered  from  the  hold  of  a  slave-ship,  faint  and  ema- 
ciated by  harsh  treatment  and  disease,  when  received  with  kindness  and 
sympathy  by  the  inhabitants,  among  whom  perhaps  they  recognise  a 
brother,  a  sister,  or  countryman,  whom  they  had  supposed  long  since 
dead,  but  whom  they  are  astonished  to  see  clothed  and  clean,  are  over- 
whelmed with  feelings  which  they  find  it  difficult  to  express.  On  their 
arrival,  those  of  a  proper  age  are  married,  and  sent  to  the  adjacent  vil- 
lages. A  house  and  lot  is  appointed  to  each  family  ;  they  are  supported 
one  year  by  government,  at  the  expiration  of  which  they  are  obliged  to 
provide  for  themselves.  The  captured  children  are  also  sent  fo  vil- 
lages, where  they  are  kept  at  school  till  married,  which  is  always  at  an 
early  age.  At  the  head  of  each  village  is  a  missionary,  who  acts  in 
the  double  capacity  of  minister  and  schoolmaster.  The  exertions  of 
the  African  Institution,  aided  by  the  missionaries  of  the  Church  of 
England,  have  effected  a  remarkable  improvement  in  the  morals  of  the 
inhabitants,  who  are  generally  contented  and  industrious.  They  have 
opened  several  avenues  of  profitable  trade  with  the  natives  of  the  in- 
terior, and  their  external  commerce  is  rapidly  increasing.  But  I  regret 
to  add,  that  the  climate  of  Sierra  Leone  is  extremely  deleterious  to  the 
health  of  Europeans.  No  less  than  seven  governors  have  died  since 
1824,  and  only  three  soldiers  survive  out  of  a  whole  regiment. 
■  The  United  States'  colony  of  Liberia,  which,  being  of  a  more  recent 
date,  is  yet  in  its  infancy,  is  situated  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
south-east  of  Sierra  Leone,  at  Cape  Montserado,  or  Mesurado.  Its 
history  is  briefly  as  follows  : — 

"In  December,  1821,  the  American  Colonization  Society  effected 
the  purchase  of  a  tract  of  territory"  at  Cape  Mesurado,  on  which  a  set- 
tlement was  made  soon  afterward.  The  colony  at  first  was  disturbed 
by  the  native  blacks,  who,  in  November,  1822,  made  two  attacks  upon 
it  in  large  bodies,  but  were  repulsed  with  great  loss.  Since  that  period 
the  colony  has  received  continual  accessions  from  the  United  States, 
and  rapidly  improving.  Additional  purchases  have  been  made  in 
the  vicinity,  particularly  on  St.  Paul's  River,  north  of  the  Mesurado, 
and  Stockton  Creek,  which  opens  an  inland  communication  between 
the  two  rivers. 

"  The  first  and  principal  settlement  is  at  Monrovia  (so  named  in 
honour  of  President  Monroe),  on  Cape  Mesurado,  which  is  fortified, 
with  a  government-house  and  stores,  churches  and  schools.  Farming 
settlements  are  formed  at  Caldwell,  on  St.  Paul's  River,  and  on  Stock- 
ton Creek.  Several  trading  factories  are  established  along  the  coast, 
over  which  the  society  have  a  qualified  jurisdiction  for  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  from  Cape  Mount  to  Trade-town.  This  jurisdiction 
secures  to  them  the  trade  of  the  country,  and  precludes  all  Europeans 


330  iJOLONY  OF  LIBERIA.  [1829.' 

from  any  possession  within  these  limits.  It  also  eniibles  them  to  put  a 
Slop  to  the  shive-tradc'."*  The  population  of  the  colony  is  rapidly  in- 
creasing, and  probably  now  amounts  to  above  fifteen  hundred.  The 
country  abounds  in  cattle,  goats,  swine,  and  fowls,  and  in  most  of  the 
fruits  and  productions  of  other  tropical  climates. 

Cape  Mesurado  is  an  elevated  promontory,  almost  perpendicular  on 
the  north  side,  but  with  a  gradual  declivity  towards  the  sea  on  the 
south.  The  natives  in  the  vicinity  of  this  place  have  been  noted  as 
very  superior  to  those  farther  eastward ;  being  quiet,  tractable,  and 
hospitable,  and  honourable  in  their  dealings.  The  negroes  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  Mesurado,  it  has  been  said,  speak  a  corrupt  dialect 
of  Portuguese,  and  acknowledge  themselves  vassals  to  Portugal ;  but 
are  not,  as  some  have  supposed,  Europeans  changed  to  negroes  by  the 
power  of  the  climate.  Ivory  is  the  staple  commodity  of  exchange  or 
barter.  Teeth  under  the  ^yeight  of  twenty-two  poiuids  are  termed 
scrivcUocs,  and  may  be  had  comparatively  cheap.  > 

**  It  is  highly  probable,"  says  Mr.  Niles,  "  that  we  may  build  up  a 
powerful  people  on  the  western  coast  of  that  beniglited  quarter  of  the 
■world,  who  shall  extend  their  settlements  into  the  interior,  as  we  our- 
selves have  done  [on  this  continent],  and  command  the  native  tribes  as 
we  do ;  and  thereby  spread  light  and  knowledge,  civilization  and  re- 
ligion, even  along  the  yet  unknown  shores  of  the  mysterious  Niger,  and 
totally  break  up  at  least  the  external  trade  in  slaves  ;  but  without  much, 
if  any,  sensible  effect  to  decrease  our  ovv'n  coloured  population.  How- 
ever, it  will  be  a  great  thing  to  have  a  spot  provided  to  which  our  free 
blacks  may  proceed,  with  an  assurance  that  their  industry  will  be 
crowned  with  prosperity  and  peace,  and  where  their  children  will  have 
a  country  and  a  home  ;  nor  will  it  be  less  interesting  because  of  the 
opportunity  which  it  may  continually  offer  to  liberal  and  humane  per- 
sons, who  would  gladly  emancipate  their  slaves,  if  convinced  that  their 
condition  would  be  benelited.  We  always  approved  of  this  project,  for 
it  is  indeed  a  humane  one,  though  we  questioned  its  efficiency  to  accom- 
plish the  grand  first  purpose  proposed."     " 

In  concluding  an  animated  description  of  this  flourishing  colony,  the 
Encyclopaedia  Americana  uses  the  following  language  : — "  Thus  far 
the  efforts  of  the  American  Colonization  Society  have  been  attended 
with  great  if  not  unexampled  success.  The  men  of  colour  who  have 
migrated  to  Liberia  have  felt  the  influences  of  enterprise  and  freedom ; 
and  are  improved  alike  in  their  condition  and  character.  Those  who 
■were  slaves  have  become  masters ;  those  who  were  once  dependent 
have  become  independent ;  once  the  objects  of  charity,  they  are  now 
benefactors ;  and  the  very  individuals  who,  a  few  years  ago,  felt  their 
spirits  depressed  in  our  land,  and  incapable  of  high  efforts  and  great 
achievements,  now  stand  forth,  conscious  of  their  dignity  and  power, 
sharing  in  all  the  privileges  and  honours  of  a  respected,  a  free,  and  a 
Christian  people."  - 1 

A  weekly  newspaper,  called  the  "  Liberia  Herald,"  is  now  printed  at 
Monrovia,  the  capital  of  the  colony,  and  appears  to  be  very  well  con.* 

*  M.  Malte  Brun's  System  of  Geography. 


June.]  ISL-\ND  OF  ASCENSION.  331 

ducted.  A  pretty  brisk  commerce  is  also  carried  on  there ;  and  in 
1828  they  exported  seventy  thousand  dollars'  worth  of  produce.  The 
climate  is  salubrious,  and  with  a  few  exceptions,  the  colonists  have  uni- 
formly enjoyed  good  health. 

June  8th. — Our  water-casks  having  been  replenished  from  mountain 
streams,  and  safely  stowed  on  board,  and  the  schooner  being  now 
amply  supplied  \yith  fresh  meat,  vegetables,  fruit,  and  refreshments  of 
every  kind,  besides  a  quantity  of  live-stock,  we  found  ourselves  in  readi- 
ness to  set  sail  for  home,  "sweet  home,"  many  months  sooner  than 
we  had  anticipated.  But  the  voyage  had  been  prosperous  beyond  our 
expectations,  and  any  further  stay  on  the  African  coast  would  have  been 
a  useless  waste  of  time  and  money.  We  therefore  got  under  way  on 
Monday,  the  8th  of  June,  and  at  4,  P.  M.,  we  left  the  anchorage  at 
Benguela,  which  is  in  lat.  12^  34'  south,  and  long.  13^  17'  east ;  varia- 
tion per  azimuth,  21°  30' westerly.  We  started  with  a  fine  breeze  from 
south-west,  and  fair  weather.  At  11,  P.  M.,  we  took  the  wind  from 
south-by-west,  and  at  10  the  next  morning  we  had  it  from  south-south- 
east.    We  crossed  the  meridian  of  Greenwich  on  Friday,  the  12th. 

June  loth. — We  continued  on  our  course  to  the  west  with  south-east 
winds  until  Monday, the  15th;  when,  at  11,  A.M.,  we  were  close  in 
with  the  island  of  Ascension,  in  lat.  7°  55'  south,  long.  14°  23'  west; 
about  six  hundred  miles  north-west  of  the  celebrated  island  of  St. 
Helena,  and  twice  that  distance  east  of  Pernambuco,  in  Brazil. 

The  island  of  Ascension  was  formerly  described  as  "  a  barren  un- 
inhabited island  in  the  South  Atlantic  Ocean,  without  soil  or  vegetation," 
and  as  "  an  impracticable  heap  of  volcanic  ashes."  This  description 
was  once  correct ;  but  industry,  skill,  and  perseverance  have  now  ren- 
dered a  more  favourable  one  appropriate.  The  island  is  in  fact  a  shat- 
tered volcano,  the  pulverized  materials  of  which  are  rapidly  becoming 
converted  into  a  rich  and  fertile  soil.  It  formerly  belonged  to  the  Por- 
tuguese, who  discovered  it  in  1501  ;  but  in  1816,  some  English  fam- 
ilies from  the  island  of  St.  Helena  settled  here,  and  it  was  taken  pos- 
session of  by  the  British  government  as  a  military  station  ;  and  sixty 
transport  ships  provided  the  garrison  of  two  hundred  men  with  supplies 
from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  A  fort  was  erected,  roads  constructed, 
gardens  planted,  houses  built,  &c. 

This  island  is  of  triangular  shape,  about  twenty  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence ;  being  eight  miles  from  north  to  south,  and  five  miles  and  a  half 
from  cast  to  west.  It  may  be  seen  from  tlie  mast-head  in  clear  weather 
at  the  distance  of  ten  leagues.  On  approaching  it  from  tlie  east,  at 
the  distance  of  six  or  eight  leagues,  its  appearance  is  uneven  and  rug- 
ged, being  an  assemblage  of  hills,  with  a  mountain  overlooking  them 
from  the  south.  This  is  called  Green  Mountain,  and  is  about  eight 
hundred  yards  in  height.  The  best  anchorage  at  this  island  is  in  Tur- 
tle Cove,  in  eight  or  ten  fathoms  of  water,  with  the  flag-staff  on  Cross- 
Hill  bearing  south-east-half-east ;  Rat  Corner,  south-south-west ;  dis- 
tance from  the  nearest  shore  about  one  mile.  A  heavy  surf  often  in- 
terrupts the  landing  for  several  days  together. 

The  whole  island  is  of  volcanic  origin,  and  the  surface  is  now  partly 
covered  with  a  reddish  soil,  while  in  some  ylaces  there  is  a  yellow  earth 


332  ISLAND  OF  ASCENSION.    .  [1829. 

resembling  ochre.  A  fine  black  earth  covers  the  bottoms  of  the  valleys, 
which  are  now  in  a  fine  state  of  cultivation  by  the  little  military  colony 
before  alluded  to.  The  island  is  composed  of  several  conic  hills,  from 
two  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred  and  fifty  yards  in  height.  Green 
Mountain  has  a  double  top,  rising  in  two  peaks,  like  the  Grecian  Par. 
nassus.  In  almost  every  part  of  the  island,  as  Mr.  Purdy  justly  ob- 
serves, are  found  prodigious  quantities  of  rocks  full  of  holes  like  a 
honeycomb ;  together  with  calcined  [stones,  very  light,  and  pumice- 
stones.  "  Tiie  rocks,  lying  upon  each  other  in  a  very  irregular  way, 
and  mostly  on  the  declivity  of  hills,  leave  great  chasms  between  them  ; 
and  as  they  have  very  little  solidity,  an  observer  runs  some  risk  who 
ventures  without  caution  iipon  them."  "  About  the  middle  of  the 
island,  and  between  the  hills,  there  are  several  little  plains,  which  arc 
divided  into  small  spaces,  so  remarkably  distributed  that  you  would 
take  them  for  so  many  pieces  of  land  cleared  of  stones,  and  separated 
from  each  other  by  long  walls." 

According  ^  the  statement  of  the  officers  of  the  Engli-sh  brig 
Slaney,  who  visited  this  island  in  February,  1827,  Ascension  was 
then  (under  the  government  of  Lieutenant-colonel  Nicholls)  in  a  most 
flourishing  state  of  progressive  improvement  as  to  its  resources,  both 
natural  and  artificial.  "Roads  are  constructing  from  the  several 
springs  (sixteen  in  number)  to  convey  water  to  the  garrison ;  and 
hopes  were  entertained  of  being  able  to  supply  a  squadron  with  that 
essential  article  in  the  course  of  a  year,  by  means  of  iron  pipes  from 
the  principal  spring  to  a  reservoir  near  the  beach.  Pasturage  for  cat- 
tle is  making  its  appearance.  Sheep,  turkeys,  guinea-fowls,  and  live- 
stock of  every  description  thrive  well.  Fruit,  such  as  pines,  Indian 
gooseberries,  and  plantains  have  been  successfully  cultivated.  Pota- 
toes, onions,  carrots,  pease,  French  beans,  and  almost  every  esculent 
vegetable  have  been  produced  upon  the  island ;  and  thus,  from  a  desert 
cinder,  nature  has  been  courted  successfully  to  yield  most  of  her  use- 
ful vegetable  productions.  Only  two  deaths  from  sickness  have 
occurred  at  Ascension  during  the  last  two  years  [1825  and  1826] ; 
and  when  we  consider  that  gales  of  wind  are  unknown  to  have  visited 
the  anchorage  there,  the  value  of  the  island  as  a  rendezvous  and  a 
depot  for  stores  and  provisions,  for  a  squadron  of  observation,  des- 
tined to  cruise  either  on  the  African  or  Brazilian  coast  hereafter, 
will  obviously  repay  the  liberal  attention  that  has  been  bestowed 
upon  it." 

A  short  time  after  the  visit  of  the  brig  Slaney,  the  William  Harris, 
a  transport,  landed  at  the  island  a  cargo  of  live-stock — horses,  hares, 
rabbits,  pheasants,  poultry,  partridges,  &;c.,  seeds  of  vegetables,  agri- 
cultural implements,  and  a  supply  of  necessaries  for  the  garrison,  who 
all  enjoyed  very  excellent  health.  In  return,  she  took  a  large  quantity 
of  fine  turtle,  with  which  the  island  abounds ;  and,  according  to  Cap- 
tain Le.^ley,  it  "  furnishes  the  finest  in  creation,"  being  "  not  only  fat 
and  large,  but  in  the  highest  perfection  for  eating.  Their  weight,  in 
general,  is  from  one  to  seven  hundred  pounds.  They  are,  of  all  I  ever 
tasted,  the  fattest  and  finest ;  all  others  I  ever  saw  before  bear  no  com- 


July.]  ARRIVE  AT  NEW-YORK.  333 

parison  with  them."     This  description,  I  should  suppose,  would  make 
any  alderman's  mouth  water. 

From  the  island  of  Ascension  we  shaped  our  course  west-north-west, 
with  a  strong  breeze  from  the  south-east,  and  fair  weather.  We  crossed 
the  equator  on  Sunday,  the'21st  of  June,  in  long.  30*^  47'  W.,  and  on 
Tuesday,  the  23d,  we  lost  the  south-east  trade-winds,  in  lat.  5°  42'  N., 
long.  32°  14'  AV.  From  this  day  to  the  26th  we  had  light  variable 
winds,,  and  heavy  falls  of  rain.  On  the  last-mentioned  date,  at  four, 
P.  M.,  we  took  the  north-east  trade-winds,  in  lat.  10°  4'  N.,  long.  32° 
51'  W.  We  now  had  a  fine  breeze  from  east-north-east  to  north- 
north-east,  and  fair  weather  for  ten  days. 

July  4th. — On  Saturday  we  celebrated  the  anniversary  of  our  na- 
tional independence  in  an  appropriate  manner,  by  displaying  the  stars 
and  stripes,  and  firing  a  national  salute  at  sunrise,  noon,  and  sunset. 
This  ceremony  was  rendered  the  more  interesting  by  its  being  beneath 
a  vertical  sun,  at  twelve,  M., — "  a  sun  of  glory,  that  threw  no 
shadow  on  the  scene."  At  this  moment  the  sun's  declination  and  our 
latitude  only  differed  one  minute  and  thirty  seconds.  Temperature  of 
the  air  95°,  of  the  water  83°.  Heaven  grant  that  the  sun  of  our 
national  glory  and  prosperity,  which  is  rapidly  ascending  to  the  zenith, 
may  there  remain  vertical,  until  time  shall  be  no  more. 

July  7th. — On  Tuesday,  the  7lh,  we  lost  the  north-east  trade-winds, 
in  lat.  31°  0'  N.,  long.  63°  8'  W.  We  now  continued  steering  to  the 
north  and  west,  with  variable  winds  and  occasional  foul  weather,  for 
nearly  another  week,  when  the  cheering  cry  from  the  mast-head  of 
"Land,  ho !  land,  ho !  over  the  larboard  bow,"  announced  the  appear- 
ance of  Mount  Mitchell,  or  the  highlands  of  Navesink,  and  many  anx- 
ious bosoms  throbbed  quick  in  response  to  the  welcome  cry.  In  a 
short  time  after  we  w^re  boarded  by  a  pilot. 

Jicly  lith. — On  Tuesday,  at  four,  P.  M.,  we  arrived  at  the  quaran- 
tine ground,  Staten  Island ;  and  at  five,  P.  M.,  I  landed  at  Whitehall, 
where  I  took  a  coach,  and  in  a  short  time  I  had  by  the  hand  my  wor- 
thy old  friend  Christian  Bergh,  Esq.,  who  greeted  me  with  a  cordial 
"  welcome  home,"  affectionately  inquiring  after  the  health  of  myself 
and  crew.  But  not  a  question  would  he  ask,  not  a  word  would  he 
hear,  respecting  the  success  of  our  voyage,  or  on  business  of  any  de- 
scription, until  I  had  embraced  my  family,  M'ho,  he  informed  me,  were 
in  good  health.  This  instance  of  kindness  and  delicacy,  so  differ- 
ent from  the  general  conduct  of  "  mercenary  man,"  touched  me  sen- 
sibly. 

While  I  was  conversing  with  the  old  gentleman,  we  were  joined  by 
his  son,  Edwm  Bergh,  "  a  son  every  way  worthy  of  such  a  sire."  His 
greeting  was  equally  cordial,  equally  delicate  with  that  of  his  excel- 
lent father ;  neither  of  them  would  touch  upon  business  until  I  had 
discharged  duties  of  a  more  tender  character.  On  taking  my  leave 
of  these  worthy  men,  I  was  met  by  their  copartners  in  business,  Jacob 
Westerfield  and  Robert  Carnley,  Esqrs.,  whose  reception,  to  my  in- 
creased surprise,  was  exactly  similar  to  that  of  the  Berghs.  The 
pleasure  of  seeing  me  returned  in  safety,  they  said,  was  a  theme  suffi- 
cient for  the  remainder  of  that  day  ;  to-morrow  would  be  time  enough 


334  INQUIRY  FOR  OGDEX.  [1829, 

for  business.  Tliey  inquired  after  the  health  of  the  crew,  and  dropped 
several  manly  tears  for  ihe  fate  of  young  Ogden,  one  of  them  exclaim- 
ing, "Ah  !  Avho  siiall  tell  his  widowed  mother  this  !  His  sisters  too — 
'twill  break  their  hearts  to  hear  the  dreadful  news." 

I  now  took  my  leave,  and  in  a  few  minutes  more  held  a  dear  form 
in  my  arms  which  had  been  rendered  senseless  by  the  sudden  joy 
arising  from  my  unexpected  appearance.  But  such  revulsions  of  na- 
ture are  seldom  fatal. 

"  But  recollection  whispered  yet  a  joy 

'Twas  hers  to  give,  and  from  Uie  trance  she  starts, 
Puts  in  his  arms  their  little  infant  boy. 
Love's  precious  pledge,  that  closer  binds  their  hearts." 


CHAPTER  Vn. 


A  Sister's  Inquiry  for  her  Brother — An  Evasive  Answer — The  Fatal  Truth  dis- 
closed— A  Mourninor  Family — Pious  Resignation — A  Funeral  Sermon — Dis- 
charge the  Cargo — Visit  Stonington — Preparations  for  another  Voyage  in  the 
Antarctic — Domestic  Affairs — A  Wiie  resolved  to  accompany  her  Husband — 
Vain  Expostulations — Arguments  pro  and  con — The  Embarkation — The  Pilot 
dismissed. 

Thus  far  all  had  been  pleasure  and  congratulation.  Several  friends 
liad  dropped  in  to  wish  us  joy,  and  welcome  my  return.  Among  the 
rest  a  beautiful  young  lady,  who  had  formed  an  intimacy  with  my 
wife  during  my  absence,  made  her  appearance.  Owing  to  the  agita- 
tion and  confusion  ever  attendant  on  such  joyfid  occasions,  the  usual 
etiquette  of  a  formal  introduction  was  forgotten  or  neglected,  and  my 
fair  visiter  opened  the  conversation  without  ceremony,  her  eyes  spar- 
kling with  vivacity  and  pleasure  as  she  spoke. 

"  Oh,  Mrs.  Morrell,  I  congratulate  you  vrith  all  my  heart.  Captain, 
I  am  so  glad  that  you  have  returned.  I  hear  that  your  beautiful  new 
vessel  the  Antarctic  is  at  quarantine.  I  suppose  she  will  be  detained 
some  time.  How  soon  do  you  think  she  will  be  up  ? — Or  will  your 
men  be  allowed  to  come  to  the  city  to  see  their  friends  ?  You  must 
let  my  brother  William  come  up,  if  it  is  only  for  one  night,  or  else  we 
shall  all  go  down  to  see  him,  and  board  you  by  force  of  arms.  Your 
Antarctic,  with  all  her  guns,  cannot  oppose  a  female  press-gang,  who 
have  so  strong  a  claim  on  one  of  your  crew.  We  must  have  Wil- 
liam." 

"  William  !  What  William !"  I  inquired,  as  a  very  unpleasant  sus- 
picion flashed  across  my  mind.  "  We  have  several  line  fellows  of  that 
name.     Which  of  them  do  you  claim,  miss  ?" 

"  Why  my  brother^  to  be  sure,  William  Ogden,  the  last  man  you 
shipped,  the  very  day  before  you  sailed ;  he  gave  us  the  slip  at  a  few 
hours'  notice,  for  which  I  mean  to  give  him  a  round  scolding,  after  I 


July.]  A  MOURNING  FAMILY.  333 

have  kissed  him,  and  am  certain  that  he  is  quite  well.  And  t  have 
got  good  news  for  him,  too." 

The  reader  will  easily  perceive  that  I  now  foimd  myself  placed  in 
a  very  awkward,  in  a  very  painful  situation.  To  dash  at  once  from 
the  lips  of  this  amiable  girl  a  cup  ovei-flowing  with  hope,  joy,  and 
iifiection,  I  could  not  for  the  wealth  of  vrorlds ;  the  worth  of  the  An- 
tarctic, and  all  her  valuable  cargo,  would  not  have  bribed  me.  I  stole 
an  appealing  glance  at  ray  wife,  for  counsel  and  assistance  ;  but  in- 
stantly read,  in  an  answering  glance,  that  I  must  depend  on  my  own 
resources.  I  therefore  resolved  to  gain  time  by  evasion,  and  so  made 
the  following  reply  : 

"  William  Ogden  !  There  is  no  man  of  that  name  on  board  of  the 
Antarctic."  She  now  looked  very  much  alarmed.  "  But  as  you  allude 
to  his  giving  you  the  slip,  and  shipping  in  a  sudden,  unexpected  man- 
ner, it  is  highly  probable  that  he  may  have  entered  under  an  assumed 
name.  It  is  often  done  by  romantic  young  men,  you  know,  especially 
if  there  be  '  a  lady  in  the  case.'  " 

"  An  assumed  name !"  repeated  the  affectionate  sister.  "  Why  should 
he  do  so  ?  And  yet  it  is  possible.  Indeed,  it  must  be  so  ;  for  I  know, 
we  all  know,  that  he  sailed  in  the  Antarctic  ;  and  the  very  night  before 
he  sailed  a  strange  band  of  music  came  under  his  window,  and  played 
the  beautiful  air  of '  Home,  sweet  home,'  in  the  sweetest  style,  he  told 
us,  that  ever  he  heard  it  performed  in  his  life.  But  he  knew  not  who 
the  musicians'were,  nor  could  he  imagine  the  cause  of  their  paying 
him  the  compliment  of  so  pleasing  a  serenade.  They  repeated  it 
several  times,  he  said,  and  the  eftect  on  his  mind  was  such  as  almost 
induced  him  to  relinquish  his  wild  resolution  of  going  to  sea." 

"  Well,  Miss  Ogden,"  I  replied,  with  as  much  firmness  as  I  could 
assume,  "if  your  brother  be  on  board  the  Antarctic,  under  whatever 
name  he  may  have  shipped,  you  shall  see  him  to-morrow,  or  at  least 
liear  some  reasons  for  his  non-attendance.  You  shall  not  be  kept  in 
suspense  an  hour  after  I  return  to  the  vessel." 

With  this  assurance  she  appeared  satisfied,  and  after  thanking  me, 
departed  with  a  heart  as  light  as  gossamer,  or  the  down  of  a  thistle. 
I  now  consulted  with  my  wife  and  one  or  two  friends,  on  the  best 
mode  of  breaking  the  distressing  intelligence  to  the  now  happy  family. 
One  of  my  friends,  much  better  qualified  for  s«ch  a  mournful  office 
than  myself,  volunteered  his  services  on  the  occasion.  I  did  not  at- 
tempt to  express  my  gratitude  to  him ;  but  I  felt  it :  and  if  he  sliould 
chance  to  cast  his  eye  upon  this  page,  let  him  be  assured  that  I  thank 
him  still,  for  saving  my  feelings  on  that  occasion.  I  would  not  shrink 
from  any  duty,  under  ordinary  circumstances ;  but  the  reader  must 
bear  in  mind  that  I  had  yet  scarcely  embraced  my  family,  after  a  long 
absence. 

My  friend  performed  his  assumed  duty,  and  acquitted  himself  on 
this  occasion,  as  he  does  on  every  other,  in  the  best  possible  manner. 
The  shock  was  great ;  but  every  member  of  that  highly  respectable 
and  very  amiable  family  had  been  taught  by  affectionate  and  pious 
parents  to  be  resigned  to  the  will  of  Providence.  The  thrice-bereaved 
and  widowed  mother  came  to  see  me  on  the  following  day,  and  thanked 


336  FUNERAL  SERMON.  [1829» 

me  for — I  hardly  remember  what ;  but  she  thought  I  had  been  kind  to  her 
poor  boy,  as  she  called  him.  She  assured  me  that  she  had  prayed  for 
and  obtained  a  feeling  of  humble  resignation  to  this  afflicting  dispen- 
sation ;  and  that  she  could  breathe  sincerely  from  the  heart  the  ejacu- 
lation of  "  Thy  will  be  done." 

On  the  following  Sabbath  a  funeral  sermon  was  preached  by  the 
Rev.  Mr.  SchaefTer,  which  was  attended  by  the  crew  of  the  Antarctic, 
on  whose  weather-beaten  visages  glistened  many  a  manly  tear. 

This  amiable  young  man  was  born  in  the  city  of  New- York,  on  the 
15th  of  November,  1807.  He  was  educated  in  his  native  city,  under 
the  charge  of  the  late  Joseph  Nelson,  LL.D.,  and  received  the  first 
honours  of  that  distinguished  school.  At  the  age  of  sixteen,  shortly 
after  the  death  of  his  father,  he  entered  upon  a  mercantile  profession ; 
and  in  the  spring  previous  to  our  sailing  for  Africa,  he  commenced  the 
dry  goods  business,  and  his  success  w^as  every  way  equal  to  his  own 
anticipations,  or  the  wishes  of  his  friends.  He  suddenly  determined 
to  go  to  sea — so  suddenly,  that  he  only  made  up  his  mind  the  day  be- 
fore the  Antarctic  sailed.  He  informed  his  friends  that  his  resolution 
was  irrevocably  fixed,  without  assigning  any  reasons,  except  his  desire 
to  explore  the  south  polar  regions.  During  our  outward  passage,  and 
until  the  period  of  his  death,  he  wTOte  home  by  every  opportunity.  I 
am  not  at  liberty  to  enter  into  particulars,  except  to  add,  that  two  fond, 
faithful,  virtuous  hearts  had  been  sundered  by  unnatural  influence.  I 
am  at  liberty  to  add,  that  I  have  seldom  met  with  his  equal  for  integ- 
rity, uprightness,  and  every  manly  virtue  which  adorns  the  human 
character ;  that  he  was  an  affectionate  son,  and  a  kind  brother ;  and 
that  he  never  caused  his  family  a  tear,  until  he  embarked  on  this  (to 
them)  unfortunate  voyage.  His  death  has  occasioned  a  chasm  ill  their 
domestic  circle  which  can  never  be  filled. 

Independent  of  the  melancholy  circumstances  just  detailed,  every 
thing  conspired  to  render  my  return  a  happy  one.  All  my  relations, 
friends,  and  acquaintances  were  in  good  health,  and  expressed  great 
joy  on  seeing  me.  One  of  my  sisters  had  happily  married  during 
my  absence,  to  Mr.  Sheldrin  Tomlinson,  of  Connecticut,  a  very  wor- 
thy man.  This  was  my  sister  Abby,  who  after  her  nuptials  received 
a  very  handsome  marriage-portion  from  the  hand  of  Mrs.  Burrows, 
the  wife  of  Silas  E.  Burrows,  Esq.,  the  generous  benefactor  of  our 
family,  after  the  awful  calamity  Avhich  deprived  us  of  a  mother. 
The  reader  will  recollect  that  he  and  his  amiable  wife  took  my 
motherless  sisters  under  their  protection,  and  treated  them  with  unex- 
umpled  tenderness  and  benevolence.  I  know  their  retiring,  unassuming 
character,  and  dare  not  hazard  the  expression  of  all  I  feel  on  this 
subject- 

July  I5th. — On  Wednesday,  the  15lh  of  July,  I  had  the  pleasure 
of  seeing  my  worthy  and  much  esteemed  friend  Charles  L.  Livings- 
ton, Esq.,  who  received  me  in  the  most  cordial  and  affectionate  man- 
ner. He  is  one  of. the  worthiest  men  of  which  the  state  of  New- 
York  can  boast ;  but  his  character  is  so  well  known,  and  so  highly 
appreciated  by  the  public,  that  it  needs  not  the  feeble  eulogium  of  my 
pen.     This  gentleman,  with  all  the  others  concerned  in  the  schooner 


July.}       VISIT  TO  STONINGTON— DOMESTIC  AFFAIRS.  337 

Antarctic,  expressecT great  satisfaction  at  the  successful  result  of  our 
voyage,  and  were  pleased  to  speak  to  me  in  terms  of  high  approba- 
tion ;  which  was,  of  course,  very  grateful  to  my  feelings.  The  plea- 
sure of  knowing  that  we  have  faithfully  discharged  our  duty  is  much 
heightened  by  the  approbation  of  our  employers.  I  now  laid  before 
them  my  favourite  plan  of  jerking  beef  on  the  coast  of  Africa,  but 
they  all  declined  entering  into  the  speculation. 

During  this  week  we  finished  discharging  the  cargo  of  the  Antarc- 
tic, at  the  quarantine  ;  and  in  a  lew  days  afterv/ard,  that  elegant 
vessel  was  once  more  moored  at  the  wharf  in  front  of  the  ship-yard 
where  she  was  built,  M'ith  the  rigging  taken  from  her  mast-heads. 
Here  I  took  my  leave  of  her  for  a  short  time,  for  the  purpose  of  pay- 
ing a  visit  to  my  father,  sister,  and  other  friends  in  Connecticut. 

This  excursion  to  Stonington  yielded  me  much  enjoyment. 
Every  one  was  well  and  happy,  and  the  place  improving  and  in- 
creasing in  wealth  and  importance.  I  was  extremely  glad  to  learn 
that  the  spirit  of  patriotism  and  enterprise  which  has  ever  distin- 
guished the  inhabitants  of  this  place,  had  received  some  encourage- 
ment from  government,  in  appropriating  funds  for  erecting  a  lighthouse 
and  constructing  a  breakwater ;  and  that  the  state  legislature  had 
granted  them  a  charter  for  a  bank. 

I  united  with  them  in  celebrating  the  anniversaiy  of  the  memorable 
bombardment  of  that  place,  which  is  strictly  observed,  not  only  by 
*'  the  sterner  sex,"  but  also  by  the  females  of  every  age,  from  the 
blooming  girl  to  the  silvery  headed  matron.  After  attending  to  this 
patriotic  festival,  and  spending  a  few  very  happy  days  with  my  father 
and  sister,  I  took  my  leave  of  Stonington,  and  returned  to  New- York ; 
where  I  found  that  my  friend  Captain  William  Skiddy,  commander 
and  part  owner  of  the  Havre  packet  Francis  the  First,  had  arrived 
during  my  absence.  This  gentleman  was  one  of  the  owners  of  the 
Antarctic  ;  and,  as  a  ship-master  and  a  gentleman,  sustains  an  elevated 
rank  in  the  estimation  of  the  community. 

On  calling  to  see  my  venerable  friend  Bergh,  he  informed  me  that 
it  was  the  unanimous  wish  of  the  owners  that  I  would  again  take 
charge  of  the  Antarctic,  and  proceed  on  a  voyage  to  the  South  Seas 
and  Pacific  Ocean.  This  request  I  was  ready  to  comply  with ;  and 
entered  mto  the  scheme  with  so  much  alacrity,  that  by  the  latter  end 
of  July,  the  schooner  was  in  readiness  to  receive  her  stores  and  pro- 
visions, with  every  other  necessary  article ;  and  by  the  1st  of  Sep- 
tember, we  once  more  found  ourselv^es'ready  for  sea ;  the  Antarctic 
lying  in  the  East  River,  abreast  of  Catharine  market. 

In  the  mean  time,  my  wife  had  informed  me,  that  during  my  late 
absence  she  had  made  up  her  mind  to  accompany  me  on  my  next 
voyage,  be  it  to  whatever  section  of  the  globe  it  might,  even  to  the 
icy  regions  of  the  antarctic  circle.  So  much  had  she  suflfered  from 
anxiety  of  mind  on  my  account,  during  the  last  twelve  months,  that 
she  assured  me  she  could  not  survive  another  such  separation. 

"  Only  take  me  with  you,  Benjamin,"  was  her  constant  reply  to  all 
my  expostulations  against  the  measure,  "  and  I  will  pledge  myself  to 
lighten  your  cares,  instead  of  adding  to  their  weight.     I  am  willing  to 

Y 


338  FRUITLESS  EXPOSTULATIONS.  [1829. 

endure  any  privation — let  my  fare  be  that  of  the  meanest  creature  on 
board,  and  I  shall  be  happy,  if  I  can  see  you  in  health  and  safety. 
Should  misfortune  be  your  lot,  I  would  console  you ;  and  I  would  a 
thousand  times  rather  share  a  watery  grave  with  you^  than  to  survive 
alone,  deprived  of  my  only  friend  and  protector  against  the  wrongs 
a]id  insults  of  an  unfeeling  world." 

I  then  represented  to  her,  in  strong  colours,  the  force  of  objections 
from  another  quarter.  It  was  to  be  admitted  that  my  owners  and 
employers  were  the  best  and  most  benevolent  of  men.  But,  as  a 
general  principle,  merchants  would  never  willingly  consent  for  a  ship- 
master in  their  employ  to  be  accompanied,  on  a  long  voyage,  by  his 
ivife.  Some  would  object  to  it  on  the  mean  avaricious  apprehensions 
of  the  lady's  food  abstracting  some  fil\y  dollars  from  the  net  profits  of 
the  voyage ;  others  were  fearful  that  the  husband  would  neglect  his 
nautical  duties,  by  attending  more  to  the  comforts  of  his  wife  than 
to  the  interests  of  his  owners.  To  all  these,  and  a  thousand  argu- 
ments of  equal  cogency,  she  had  ready  and  plausible  replies. 

"As  regards  the  cost  of  food,"  she  replied,  "your  owners  shall  not 
suffer  a  cent.  Water  costs  nothing,  bread  we  can  buy  ourselves ;  I 
want  no  better  fare,  if  I  can  only  be  with  you,  if  I  can  only  see  yon 
once  in  twenty-four  hours,  and  know  that  you  are  not  sick  ;  or  if  sick, 
that  I  can  have  the  privilege  of  nursing  you,  and  administering  to 
your  wants.  And  how  little  must  they  know  you^  Benjamin,  who 
could  for  a  moment  suspect  that  you  could  neglect  your  duty  on  my 
accoimt.  The  Antarctic  would  be  doubly  safe  m  ith  me  on  board  ;  for 
your  care  and  watchfulness  over  her  safety  would  be  tenfold  increased 
for  my  sake.  You  would  know  that  your  wife  and  the  vessel  must 
swim  or  sink  together." 

I  will  not  fatigue  the  reader  with  all  the  arguments  urged  and 
refuted  on  both  sides ;  but  will  merely  state  that  my  principal  objec- 
tion, next  to  anxiety  for  her  comfort  and  safety,  was  the  fear  of 
slanderous  tongues,  which  might  injure  my  professional  character  as  a 
ship-master,  by  representing  me  as  studying  my  own  comfort  and 
pleasure,  instead  of  the  pecuniary  advantages  of  those  who  intrusted 
me  with  the  vessel.  I  knew  that  I  had  enemies  who  would  seize 
upon  the  slightest  pretext  to  lessen  me  in  the  estimation  of  merchants, 
as  a  man  of  business.  To  this  she  replied,  •  that  while  conscious  of 
doing  my  duty  to  God  and  man,  the  shafts  of  envy  could  never  harm 
me.  I  then  appealed  to  female  timidity,  and  endeavoured  to  alarm 
her  terrors  by  picturing  the  dangers  of  the  sea  in  the  most  frightful 
colours.  I  represented  the  chance  of  being  shipwrecked  on  an  island  of 
■savages,  who  would  massacre  the  survivors  with  perhaps  the  exception 
of  herself,  reserved  for  a  still  more  horrid  fate ;  the  hazard  of  foun- 
dering at  sea,  in  a  gale  of  wind,  and  the  crew  compelled  to  save  them- 
selves in  an  open  boat,  in  the  midst  of  the  ocean ;  together  with  many 
other  dangers  of  a  like  nature. 

'  In  this  opposition  to  the  fondest  wish  of  her  heart,  I  was  ably  sup- 
ported by  her  parents,  brothers,  sisters,  and  friends  ;  also  by  my  uncles 
Captains  Thomas  and  Denasen  Wood,  with  their  wives  and  daughters, 
my  sisters,  and  many  respectable  friends  and  acquaintances,  who  all 


Sept.]  A  PASSENGER— THE  EMBARKATION.  339 

united  in  endeavouring  to  dissuade  my  wife  from  her  resolution  of  ac- 
companying me  on  this  long  and  perilous  voyage.  They  renewed 
the  subject  morning,  noon,  and  night,  but  all  to  no  purpose.  She  was 
still  determined  to  go  with  me,  wherever  I  went,  unless  I  perempto- 
rily and  absolutely  forbade  her ;  the  consequence  of  which  she  said 
would  be,  that  she  should  never  more  see  me,  feeling  it  impossible  to 
survive  until  I  returned. 

For  the  week  before  I  gave  my  final  consent,  she  could  neither 
sleep  nor  eat ;  but  bathed  her  pillow  with  tears  at  night,  and  drooped 
all  day  like  a  fading  lily.  I  now  became  alarmed  for  her  health ;  it 
evidently  appearing  that  my  further  opposition  to  her  wishes  would  be 
fatal  to  her  happiness,  if  not  to  her  life.  I  therefore  told  her,  only 
two  days  before  we  sailed,  that  I  would  yield  to  her  wishes,  if  she 
would  agree  to  the  restrictions  that  had  been  pointed  out :  viz.  that 
she  must  expect  no  attentions  from  me  when  duty  called  me  on  deck; 
that  she  must  never  blame  me,  if  things  were  not  agreeable  or  plea- 
sant, at  all  times,  during  the  voyage ;  and  that  she  must  not  expect 
that  there  would  be  any  extra  living  on  board  the  Antarctic  on  her 
account.  She  threw  herself  on  my  bosom,  and  for  some  moments 
could  only  thai^  me  with  her  tears.  At  length  she  feebly  articu- 
lated, "You  shall  see,  Benjamin — you  shall  see." 

From  this  moment  her  health  began  to  improve  ;  while  her  pallid, 
death-like  countenance  changed  into  the  picture  of  happiness,  and 
soon  exhibited  the  bloom  of  the  rose.  All  her  former  cheerfulness 
and  vivacity  returi^ed ;  and  when  I  chanced  to  be  present  when  she 
was  busily  engaged  in  making  her  preparations  for  the  voyage,  she 
would  often  repeat  the  exclamation,  "  Oh,  Benjamin,  how  happy  you 
have  made  me !" 

The  various  scenes  of  final  leave-taking  I  shall  leave  to  the  reader's 
imagination ;  for  I  fear  that  I  have  already  trespassed  too  much  on 
his  patience  with  matters  that  merely  concern  myself — subjects  sel- 
dom interwoven  with  the  coarse  fabric  of  a  seaman's  journal.  But 
though  "  Columbia's  tars  have  hearts  of  oak,"  they  sometimes  soften 
in  the  warm  rays  of  affection. 

It  was  on  Wednesday,  the  second  day  of  September,  1829,  at 
eleven,  A.  M.,  that  I  handed  my  wife  on  to  the  deck  of  the  Antarctic, 
which  was  just  getting  under  way,  with  the  pilot  on  board.  We 
were  attended  by  several  of  our  friends,  who  proposed  accompanying 
us  to  Sandy  Hook,  and  returning  in  the  pilot-boat :  viz.  my  worthy  friend 
Mr.  Edwin  Bergh,  and  his  father-in-law  Mr.  Gcer,  Captain  Mitchell, 
Mr.  Bogert,  IMr.  Keeler,  and  INIr.  John  Wood,  the  son  of  my  uncle 
Captain  Thomas  Wood. 

At  one,  P.  M.,  we  passed  the  Battery,  with  a  moderate  breeze  from 
the  south-west,  and  fair  weather.  At  five,  P.  M.,  my  friends  all  took 
their  leave,  and  after  wishing  us  a  prosperous  voyage  and  a  safe 
return,  they  went  on  board  the  pilot-boat  Thomas  H.  Smith,  of  New- 
York.  Before  they  squared  away  for  the  city,  however,  they  greeted 
US  with  three  hearty  cheers ;  which  were  duly  honoured  by  our  noble 
tars,  with  six  loud  and  animating  responses. 

It  may  not  be  improper  in  this  place  to  remark,  that  the  Antarctic, 

Y2 


340  THE  ANTARCTIC  SAILS.  [1829. 

on  tins  occasion,  though  amply  and  liberally  supplied  with  every  tiling 
necessary  for  a  long  voyage,  had  no  ardent  spirits  on  board ;  as  I  was 
determined  to  test  the  question  of  the  practicabihty  of  such  a  measure. 
I  am  happy  in  having  this  opportunity  of  bearing  public  testimony  to 
the  fact,  that  the  experiment  was  in  every  respect  successful ;  so  that 
from  my  representation  of  the  result,  several  other  ship-masters  have 
adopted  the  same  plan,  with  the  like  happy  effects.  I  am  so  perfectly 
eatisfied  of  the  advantages  arising  from  this  system,  not  only  to  the 
health,  morals,  and  pecuniary  interest  of  the  crew,  but  also  to  the 
master  and  owners,  by  a  more  faithful  discharge  of  duty,  that  I  shall 
strictly  adhere  to  it  in  all  my  future  voyages.  Its  advantage  to  the 
seamen  is  obvious ;  as  instead  of  their  usual  allowance  of  grog,  they 
receive  an  equivalent  in  cash,  w^hich,  at  the  termination  of  a  two 
years'  voyage,  must  amount  to  a  handsome  sum.  Two  or  three 
.years'  abstinence  will  cure  this  disease  of  a  vitiated  appetite  in  almost 
any  person,  even  if  he  be  a  veteran  in  the  ranks  of  intemperance ; 
and  I  sincerely  believe  that  those  ship-masters  who  have  adopted  my 
plan  of  commuting  with  their  crew  for  ardent  spirits  are  doing  more 
for  the  cause  of  temperance  than  any  other  set  of  men.  May  heaven 
prosper  the  endeavours  of  every  one  engaged  in  this  glorious  cause  ; 
for  he,  or  she,  that  is  instrumental  in  arresting  one  solitary  human 
being  in  the  downward  course  of  intemperance,  and  reinstating  him 
in  the  path  of  sobriety  and  virtue,  may  be  emphatically  termed  the 
benefactor  of  mankind.  ' 


FOURTH  VOYAGE.     . 


TO   THE 


NORTH  AND  SOUTH  PACIFIC,  INDIAN 

OCEAN,  kc. 


CHAPTER  I. 

DepaTture  of  the  Antarctic — Good  Qualities  of  the  Schooner — The  Captain's 
Wife  on  board — Beauties  of  a  dying  Dolphin — Sudden  Death  of  -Francis  Pat- 
terson— Arrive  at  Bona\asta — Arrive  at  Porto  Praya — Steer  for  the  South — The 
Crew  assailed  by  Fever — The  Lady  suffering  under  the  same  Disease — Dis- 
tressing Situation  of  the  Antarctic — Death  of  Mr.  Geery — Death  of  Mr.  Spin- 
ney— The  Prospect  darkens — A  Wife's  dying  Request  to  her  Husband — A  Dawn 
of  Hope — The  Sick  begin  to  recover — Axrive  at  Tristan  d'Acunha,  and  procure 
Refreshments. 

As  the  objects  of  this  voyage  will  be  fully  developed  in  the  course 
of  the  narrative,  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  detain  the  reader  by  any 
prematiure  comments  on  the  subject.  If  he  have  patience  to  peruse 
the  following  pages,  he  will  be  master  of  the  whole  secret.  He  will 
also  learn  m  the  sequel,  that  though  the  enterprise  proved  a  total  faihne, 
so  far  as  respects  the  pecuniary  interests  of  the  parties  concerned,  more 
especially  my  o\ni,  the  cause  of  science  has  been  essentially  promoted 
by  new  discoveries  of  a  most  interesting  description,  both  in  a  com- 
mercial and  moral  point  of  view.  But  this  is  not  all ;  he  will  become 
convinced,  that  through  the  means  of  these  discoveries  I  could,  with 
only  a  moderate  share  of  patronage,  either  from  the  United  Statesgov- 
ernment,  or  a  private  company  of  enterprising  capitalists,  open  ^ew 
avenue  of  trade,  more  lucrative  than  any  which  our  country  has  ever 
yet  enjoyed ;  and  further,  that  it  woidd  be  in  my  power,  and  mhie  ahncy 
to  secure  its  monopoly  for  any  term  I  pleased.  But  I  will  not  antici- 
pate ;  having  merely  intimated  thus  much  as  an  additional  hiducement 
for  the  reader  to  accompany  me  through  the  following  pages. 

No  vessel,  perhaps,  could  be  better  adapted  to  meet  successfully  the 
contingencies  of  such  a  voyage  than  the  schooner  Antarctic,  of  which  I 
had  just  resumed  the  command  ;  this  being  only  her  second  essay  since 
she  was  first  launched  from  the  ship-yard  of  her  experienced  and  accom- 
plished builder.  Christian  Bergh,  Esq.,  in  1828.  In  my  former  voyage 
on  the  African  coast,  I  had  tried  this  vessel  effectually,  in  every  position 
and  situation,  to  my  entire  satisfaction.  She  was  very  sharp-built,  of  one 


342  DEPARTURE— DEATH  OF  PATTERSON.  [1829. 

liundrctl  and  seventy-two  tons,  constructed  of  the  best  materials,  and 
Jiiiished  in  a  superior  manner,  willi  which  her  rigging  and  equipments 
corresponded.  1  foci  no  liesitation  in  adding,  that  a  finer  vessel  of  her 
class  never  ploughed  the  ocean.  I  think  she  would  outsail  any  vessel 
belonging  to  the  port  of  New-York,  on  a  wind,  in  rougli  weather,  or  in 
turning  to  windward. 

At  her  earnest  and  unceasing  solicitation  I  was  accompanied  by  my 
wife,  on  this  long,  perilous,  and  in  many  respects  disastrous  voyage, 
having  previously  committed  our  little  boy  to  tiie  protecting  care  of  his 
afiectionatc  grand-parents.  We  embarked  on  Wednesday,  the  2d  day 
of  September,  1829,  at  11,  A.M.,  and  took  our  departure  from  Sandy- 
Hook  light  at  about  7  o'clock,  the  same  evening — the  light  bearing  west- 
norlli-west,  distant  three  leagues.  We  steered  to  the  south-east,  with 
a  moderate  breeze  from  south-west,  and  fair  weather,  running  past 
every  thing  standing  in  the  same  direction. 

Sept.  4t/i. — On  Friday,  the  4th,  we  were  in  lat.  38°  57'  north,  long. 
60^  44'  west ;  and  continued  our  passag-e  to  the  eastward,  with  con- 
trary winds  a  great  part  of  the  time,  for  more  than  three  weeks.  Our 
Ih-st  point  of  destination  was  Bonavista,  one  of  the  Cape  Verd  Islands, 
wJierc  we  were  to  touch  for  salt. 

Sept.  28tJi. — On  Friday,  the  28lh,  we  took  the  north-east  trade- 
winds,  in  lat.  32°  17'  north,  long.  2G°  1 1'  west,  wind  from  north-east- 
by-north,  and  fair  \veather.  We  continued  on  our  passage  with  a  fine 
breeze,  occasionally  seeing  sperm-wdiales,  porpoises,  dolphins,  skip- 
jacks, sharks,  and  pilot-fish.  We  cauglit  several  porpoises  and  skip- 
jacks, and  one  large  shark;  thus  giving  the  lady  an  opportunity  of  con- 
templating these  tenants  of  the  mighty  deep,  when  drawn  from  their 
nati'.e  element.  The  shark  was  of  formidable  dimensions,  measuring 
fourteen  feet  in  length.  But  the  spectacle  in  which  she  evinced  the 
most  thrilling  interest  was  that  of  a  dying  dolphin,  when  writhing  in 
the  last  agonies,  while  his  scales  reflected  all  the  richest  tints  of  the 
rainbow.  Though  familiar  with  Falconer's  beautiful  description,  she 
thought  tiie  reality  even  more  beautiful  than  that  accomplished  seaman's 
poetry. 

"What radiant  clianges  strike  tlie  astonished  siglil ! 
What  glowing  hues  of  mingled  shade  and  light! 
Not  equal  beauties  gild  the  lucid  west, 
With  p'jrting  beams  all  o'er  profusely  drcss'd. 
Not  lovelier  colours  jaint  the  vernal  dawn, 
When  orient  dews  inipcarl  llie  enamelled  lawn, 
Than  from  his  sides  in  bright  sufTusioi)  flow, 
That  now  Aviih  gold  imperial  seem  to  glow ; 
Now  in  pellucid  sapphires  meet  the  view, 
And  cniulale  the  soil  celestial  hue; 
Now  beam  a  flaming  crimson  to  the  eye; 
And  now  assume  the  purple's  d».eper  die." 

Sept.  20tJi. — On  Vv^cdnesday,  the  30th,  one  of  our  oldest  and  most 
exjiericnced  seamen  was  seized  with  an  apoplectic  fit,  and  expired  at 
2,  P.  M.,  aged  sixty-five  years.  His  name  was  Francis  Patterson,  an 
Englishman  by  birth ;  a  veteran  tar,  who  had  followed  the  seas  for 
lifty-five  years,  and  had  been  in  many  of  the  naval  engagements  of 
Great  Britain.  He  was  as  taut  and  as  honourable  a  seaman  as  ever 
put  two  ends  of  a  rope  together ;  a  fine  specimen  of  British  tars  of 


Oct.]  CAPE  VERBS— DREADFUL  SICKNESS.  343 

the  Dibdin  school.  At  his  own  dying  request,  he  was  buried  according- 
to  the  customs  of  the  British  navy  ;  and  his  loss  was  sincerely  felt  and 
lamented  by  every  soul  on  board. 

Oct.  5th. — We  arrived  at  Boiiavista  on  Monday,  the  5th  day  of  Oc- 
tober ;  and  at  6,  A.  M.,  came  to  anchor  in  English  Roads,  in  three 
f^ithoms  of  water,  sandy  bottom,  mixed  with  coral.  This  island  is  one 
of  the  Cape  Verds,  for  a  description  of  which  the  reader  is  referred  to 
the  first  and  second  chapters  of  my  Third  Voyage.  At  7,  A.  M.,  I  went 
on  shore  to  see  my  old  friend  Don  Martinez,  who  informed  me  that 
w-e  could  not  have  any  salt  until  Wednesday,  the  7th,  when  we  coni« 
menced  taking  on  board  eleven  hundred  bushels. 

Oct.  9th. — On  Frida\',  the  9th,  at  7,  P.  jM.,  we  got  under  way,  and 
steered  for  St.  Jago,  where  we  arrived  on  the  lOtli,  and  came  to  anchor 
at  Porto  Praya,  at  6,  A.  M.,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  sandy  bo-ttom.  I 
immediately  called  on  Mr.  Merrill,  the  United  States'  consul,  whom  I 
found  to  be  sick,  having  been  confined  to  his  room  for  about  three 
months,  with  intermittent  fever  and  ague,  a  disease  which  was  then  pre- 
vailing at  Bonavista,  though  not  many  cases  had  occurred  in  Porto 
Praya.  Though  not  able  to  attend  to  the  duties  of  his  office,  this  gen- 
tleman rendered  me  every  assistance  in  his  power ;  as  did  also  Mr. 
Gardner,  an  American  merchant,  who  is  the  son-in-law  of  Don  Marti- 
nez. This  gentleman  is  always  very  active  in  assisting  Americans 
who  touch  at  this  port  for  refreshments,  and  will  never  accept  any  com- 
pensation for  his  trouble. 

Oct.  1 1th. — Having  replenished  our  water-casks,  and  taken  on  board 
a  large  supply  of  live-stock,  fruit,  and  vegetables,  we  once  more  got 
under  way,  on  Sunday,  the  11th  of  October,  at  7,  P.  M.,  and  steered 
to  the  south,  with  a  light  breeze  from  north-east-by-east,  and  fair 
T/eather. 

Oct.  I2ih. — On  Monday,  the  12th,  Vve  lost  the  north-east  trade- 
■winds,  in  lat.  10^  40'  north,  long.  22°  30'  west.  For  several  days  fol- 
lowing our  progress  was  retarded  by  successive  or  continued  calms, 
with  very  light  variable  airs,  attended  with  heavy  falls  of  rain. 

Oct.  25th. — This  weather  continued  mitil  we  crossed  the  equator, 
which  was  on  Saturday,  the  24th,  in  long.  22°-45'  west ;  and  on  the 
following  day  we  took  the  south-east  trade-winds,  from  soulh-east-by- 
south,  and  fair  weather.  On  the  same  day  eight  of  the  crew  were 
taken  sick  with  the  intermittent  fever ;  and  on  the  26th  the  officers  and 
my  wdfe  were  taken  down  with  the  same  disease. 

Oct.  2Sth. — On  Wednesday,  the  28th,  eleven  men  and  my  wife 
were  all  lying,  as  I  thought,  at  the  point  of  death.  My  situation  was 
now  truly  deplorable  and  appalling ;  on  board  of  a  vessel,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  ocean,  expecting  every  moment  to  see  the  rest  of  the  crew 
reduced  to  the  same  lielple&s  condition  with  their  comrades,  and  the 
gallant  little  Antarctic  left  to  the  mercy  of  the  winds  and  waves,  with- 
out a  hand  to  guide  the  helm  or  to  tend  the  braces,  and  keep  the  sails 
trimmed  to  th^  breeze.  The  prospect  was  gloomy  in  the  extreme. 
And  then  the  patient  suffering  angel  in  the  cabin,  far  removed  from 
the  reach  of  a  mother's  or  a  sister's  sympathy,  and  all  those  delicate 
offices  of  aflfection  which  a  female  hand  is  best  fitted  to  perform. 


344  SICKNESS  INCREASES.  [1829. 

Had  she  not  been  on  board  I  should  certainly  have  oorne  up  for  the 
first  port  under  our  lee,  as  I  momentarily  expected  that  every  man 
would  be  taken  down  with  the  same  fever.  But  I  reflected  that  some 
slanderous  tongues  might  attribute  such  a  deviation  from  my  regular 
course  solely  to  the  fact  of  my  wife's  being  on  board.  That  idea  I  could 
not  lamely  endure ;  especially  if  any  untoward  accident  should  be  the 
result  of  such  a  measure.  Thus  was  I  beset  with  difficulties  on  every 
side  ;  difficulties  which  tho«e  heroes  of  the  drawing-room  who  would 
be  the  most  liberal  in  their  censures  could  not  appreciate. 

"  No !  perish  all  first !"  I  muttered  with  bitterness,  as  I  gloomily 
paced  the  deck  at  midnight.  "  I  will  never  subject  myself  to  the  un- 
feeling sarcasms  of  those  carpet-knights,  on  whose  delicate  frames  the 
winds  of  heaven  are  not  permitted  to  blow  too  roughly.  Let  them  loll 
on  their  parlour  sofas,  or  sport  on  the  downy  beds  of  luxury :  I  will 
pursue  the  direct  path  of  duty,  and  leave  the  result  to  an  all-wise  and 
overruling  Providence.  His  word  can  stay  the  pestilence,  if  such  be 
his  gracioU'S  purpose.  If  not,  we  are  in  his  hands,  and  let  his  holy 
will  be  done."  The  soothing  influence  of  this  last  reflection  calmed 
my  agitations,  and  encouraged  me  to  persevere  in  my  arduous  duties. 

I  momentarily  expected  to  be  taken  down  myself;  if  not  with  the 
fever,  by  fatigue  and  watchfulness,  in  nursing  the  sick  and  navigating 
the  vessel,  being  constantly  in  motion,  and  scarcely  able  to  snatch  a 
moment's  repose  or  a  mouthful  of  necessary  nourishntent.  The  sea- 
men who  were  still  able  to  perform  their  duty  on  deck  were  unwilling 
to  attend  to  their  dying  shipmate's,  believing  the  disease  to  be  conta- 
gious ;  which  was  not  the  case,  or  I  should  certainly  have  taken  it 
myself,  as  I  was  day  and  night  administering  to  the  wants  of  the  suf- 
ferers, and  nursing  by  turns  the  officers  and  my  languishing  but  uncom- 
plaining wife.  I  am  certain  that  I  did  not  average  more  than  two  hours' 
sleep  out  of  the  twenty-four  ;  and  even  this  sleep  was  not  rest,  for  the 
anxiety  of  ray'mind  rendered  it  any  thing  but  refreshing. 

Oct.  dOih.—On  Friday,  the  30th,  Mr.  Scott,  my  third  officer,  ap- 
peared to  be  dying,  as  the  blood  had  settled  under  his  toe-nails,  and  his 
legs  had  become  cold  above  his  knees.  I  therefore  took  him  on  deck, 
and  commenced  bathing  his  limbs  with  warm  vinegar,  and  rubbing  them 
with  hot  flannel  steeped  in  the  same,  until  by  vigorous  exertion,  and 
long  perseverance,  the  circulation  of  the  stagnant  blood  was  again  re- 
stored ;  when  I  replace-d  him  in  his  berth  below. 

Oct.  3lst. — On  the  following  day  my  first  officer,  Mr.  Moses  Hunt, 
told  me  that  he  felt  himself  to  be  near  his  end,  and  requested  to  be 
taken  on  deck,  that  his  brother-officers  might  not  suffer  the  shock  of 
witnessing  his  last  agonies.  I  complied  with  his  request,  at  the  same 
tim.e  suggesting  that  his  situation  might  not  be  so  critical  as  he  ima- 
gined ;  but  that  hot  vinegar  with  rapid  friction  might  revive  him,  as  it 
had  Mr.  Scott.  This  experiment  was  immediately  adopted  with  unre- 
mitting perseverance.  I  observed  that  the  blood  had  begun  to  settle 
under  his  nails,  that  his  extremities  were  deathhke  cold,  and  that  there 
was  scarcely  any  perceptible  motion  in  his  pulse.  The  thermometer 
now  stood  at  94°  in  the  draught  of  the  companion. 

"  It  is  in  vain,  captaui,"  said  he,  taking  me  by  the  hand,  while  his 


(i 


Nov.]         DISTRESSING  SITUATION— DEATH  OF  GEERY.  345 

own  was  cold  and  clammy ;  "  it  is  of  no  use — my  life-lines  are 
stranded — God  bless  you,  my  dear  sir — you  are  the  sailor's  friend — a 
father  to  those  under  your  command — Heaven  will  bless  you."  I  told 
him  I  hoped  he  felt  resigned  to  the  will  of  Providence,  and  was  pre- 
pared for  the  change  which  he  thought  so  nearly  awaited  him.  He 
answered  that  he  believed  he  was  ;  and  then  folded  his  hands,  and 
raising  his  eyes  aloft,  was  for  some  time  engaged  in  silent  prayer.  At 
the  same  time  I  breathed  a  fervent  petition  to  Heaven,  that  I  might  not 
be  thus  deprived  of  this  my  chief  dependence,  my  able  counsellor  and 
well  tried  friend,  under  my  present  troubles  and  difficulties. 

During  all  this  time  our  exertions  in  attempting  to  restore  the  circu- 
lation of  blood  in  his  limbs  were  not  relaxed,  but  continued  with  in- 
creased ardour ;  by  continual  friction,  and  bathing  with  hot  vinegar, 
these  exertions  were  at  length  rewarded  with  success ;  when,  to  our 
unspeakable  joy,  we  once  more  felt  his  beating  pulse,  which  began  to 
tell  with  accelerating  force,  and  the  blood  at  length  resumed  its  usual 
course  through  his  limbs.  Before  night  we  took  him  below,  and  en- 
tertained great  hopes  of  his  final  recovery. 

My  wife  was  at  this  time  so  low  that  I  dared  not  indulge  the  hope 
of  her  ever  being  restored  to  health,  or  of  even  surviving  another  revo- 
lution of  twenty-four  hours.  She  stilL  retained  her  senses,  however ; 
and  several  times  a  day  would  send  her  brother  forward,  with  sweet- 
meats, jellies,  cakes,  and  other  little  delicacies,  for  the  sick  sailors  in 
the  forecastle ;  saying,  w^ith  a  voice  enfeebled  by  disease  and  pain, 
"  Poor  men !  how  much  they  must  suffer  for  the  want  of  some  little 
thing  that  is  palatable  and  nourishing."  Although  she  could  not  turn 
herself  in  the  bed,  she  would  give  directions  to  her  brother  how  to  make 
wine  sangaree  and  lemonade,  and  send  him  forward  with  it,  at  least  a 
dozen  times  a  day,  to  the  sick  seamen,  with  orders  to  them  if  they 
wanted  it  more  frequently  to  send  their  shipmates  aft^  and  they  should 
have  it. 

November  \st. — On  Sunday,  the  1st  of  November,  the  fever  still 
raged  with  unrelenting  severity.  Several  of  the  crew  appeared  to  be 
dying ;  but  were  revived  by  blisters,-  friction,  and  bathing  with  hot 
vinegar.  Mr.  Scott,  the  third  officer,  had  again  become  worse,  so 
that  his  tongue  had  turned  black,  and  his  pulse  had  nearly  ceased  to 
beat  for  more  than  two  hours.  But  by  a  very  large  blister  on  the  pit 
of  his  stomach,  and  frequent  bathings  with  vinegar,  with  hot  applica- 
tions constantly  at  his  feet,  we  once  more  raised  his  pulse,  and  restored 
the  circulation  of  the  blood  in  his  limbs. 

November  2d. — This  mode  of  treatment,  however,  was  not  always 
to  be  successful.  On  the  following  day,  which  was  JMonday,  the  2d 
of  November,  I  was  called  to  witness  the  closing  scene  of  life's  little 
drama  in  the  person  of  Mr.  Samuel  Geery,  son  of  James  Geery,  Esq., 
merchant,  in  the  city  of  New- York,  at  the  early  and  promising  age  of 
twenty-two.  This  was  a  young  man  who  promised  to  become  a  first- 
rate  navigator,  having  every  necessary  qualification  for  rising  to  the 
head  of  the  profession ;  add  to  this,  for  his  private  virtues  I  loved  him 
like  a  younger  brother.     The  reader  will  easily  conceive  that  it  was 


346  DEATH  OF  GEERY.  [1829 

a  painful  trial  for  me  to  lose  his  friendship  and  services  at  this  afflict- 
ing period.     God's  will  be  done. 

A  little  before  eleven  o'clock  at  night,  as  I  had  just  been  success- 
fully employed  in  relieving  Mr.  Hunt  from  a  fainting  fit,  I  was  called 
to  Mr.  Geery,  who  for  some  time  had  been  lying  very  low,  but  always 
patient,  calm,  and  resigned.  As  I  approached  him,  he  reached  out  a 
hand  to  me,  now  much  enfeebled  by  disease,  but  which  had  ever  been 
nerved  in  tlic  cause  of  justice,  and  open  in  that  of  humanity. 

"  My  dear  friend,"  said  he,  "  I  am  going — and  going  happy,  and 
perfectly  resigned  to  the  will  of  God  :  I  shall  one  day  meet  you 
in  heaven,  together  Mith  my  father  and  mother,  and  others  who 
love  me.'' 

The  moment  I  took  his  cold  clammy  hand,  I  was  convinced  that  he 
was  struck  with  death ;  the  blood  being  settled  under  his  nails,  and 
there  being  little  or  no  perceptible  motion  in  his  pulse.  I  immediately 
applied  the  warm  vinegar  bath,  but  he  told  me  that  it  would  be  of  no 
use,  because  God  wanted  him  in  the  other  v/orld.  I  asked  him  if  he 
was  ready  and  willing  to  die.  He  replied  that  it  would  be  the  happiest 
moment  of  his  brief  existence ;  for  he  longed  to  leave  this  world,  and 
be  with  our  blessed  Saviour.  "  The  angels,"  said  he,  "  are  now 
Iioverina  over  the  vessel,  waiting  for  my  departing  spirit,  to  take  it  to 
the  God  that  gave  it."  I  cannot  recollect  all  he  uttered  on  the  sub- 
ject of  his  approaching  dissolution ;  but  it  was  such  language  as  im- 
pressed me  with  a  full  conviction  of  the  sincerity  of  his  piety  and 
religious  faith. 

He  retained  the  full  exercise  of  his  intellectual  faculties  to  the 
last  moment ;  and  requested  me  to  assure  his  parents,  brothers,  sisters, 
and  friends  that  he  knew  Jesus  had  prepared  a  place  for  him  in  heaven, 
v/here  he  hoped  to  meet  them  all  in  His  own  good  time.  He  then 
gave  me  his  hand  again,  saying  he  had  but  a  minute  or  two  longer  to 
stay ;  but  his  dying  prayer  was  that  the  Lord  would  bless  me,  because 
I  was  a  friend  to  seamen,  and  had  shown  kindness  to  him  and  all  his 
shipmates  during  their  sickness.  "  I  come,  Lord  Jesus  !"  M'ere  the 
last  words  that  he  spoke ;  when  he  straightened  out  liis  lower  limbs, 
folded  his  arms  across  his  breast,  closed  his  mouth  and  eyes,  and 
thus  decently  composed  himself  to  his  final  sleep,  with  a  placid  smile 
on  his  countenance,  and  without  a  struggle. 

Thus  died,  in  the  very  morning  of  life,  as  amiable  a  youth  as  ever 
guided  the  helm  or  trimmed  the  sails  of  a  vessel.  Quick,  penetrating, 
intelligent,  and  wise  for  his  years — brave  and  collected  in  danger — 
gentle,  afi'able,  kind,  and  affectionate,  under  all  circumstances.  The 
precepts  of  Christianity  having  been  early  instilled  into  his  tender 
mind  by  pious  parents  and  teachers,  he  looked  to  Heaven  with  grati- 
tude for  the  blessings  he  had  enjoyed,  and  with  hope  for  others  in  per- 
spective. He  died  "  the  death  of  the  righteous,  and  his  last  end  was 
indeed  like  his."  He  departed  this  life  on  the  2d  day  of  November, 
1829,  at  eleven,  P.  M.,  in  lat.  20^  30'  S.,  long.  21°  47'  W.  The  heat 
of  the  weather  rendered  it  necessary  to  bury  him  soon ;  we  therefore 
the  next  morning,  at  eleven,  A.  M.,  committed  his  body  to  the  deep 
with  the  usual  solemnities  practised  on  such  occasions. 


Nov.]  DEATH  OF  SPINNEY.  347 

I  kept  the  death  of  Mr.  Geery  a  secret  from  the  officers  in  the 
cabin,  who  were  all  very  much  attached  to  him.  I  also  kept  my  wife 
in  ignorance  of  the  fact,  who  made  daily  inquiries  respecting  Mr. 
Geery's  health  for  nearly  a  month  after  his  burial;  frequently  sending 
her  brother  to  carry  him  some  little  delicacy  or  dainty,  from  her  own 
stores.  She  was  much  shocked  when  I  finally  communicated  to  her  the 
melancholy  intelligence,  which  was  not  until  her  health  was  partially 
restored. 

Nove?)iber  3d. — Tuesday,  the  3d,  found  ten  of  the  Antarctic's  crew 
lying,  apparently,  at  the  point  of  death.  At  one,  P.  M.,  on  visiting 
the  forecastle,  I  found  that  Daniel  Spinney  had  been  struck  by  the  cold 
hand  of  the  fell  destroyer.  His  legs  were  cold  nearly  as  high  as  his 
hips,  and  the  blood  had  settled  under  all  his  nails.  We  lost  no  time 
in  making  the  usual  exertions  to  restore  the  circulation  in  his  limbs  ; 
and  several  times  during  the  afternoon  and  evening  our  labours  ap- 
peared to  be  crowned  with  success.  But  he  told  me,  from  the  first 
attempt,  that  it  was  of  no  use,  as  he  was  confident  that  he  coidd  not 
recover. 

"  This  weather-beaten  bull  of  mine  must  founder,  captain,  and  go 
down  to  Davy  Jones's  locker;  but  I  hope  my  spirit,  my  soul,  and  thac 
is  I  myself,  will  find  a  pleasant  berth  aloft,  and  ship  with  the  Captain 
of  our  salvation."  I  told  him  I  rejoiced  to  perceive  that  he  was  not 
afraid  to  die.  "  Why  should  I  be  afraid  to  die  ?"  said  he.  "  I  have 
never  injured  man,  woman,  or  child.  I  have  always  been  kind  to  my 
shipmates.  I  have  treated  every  man  just  as  I  should  wish  to  be 
treated  were  I  in  his  place  and  he  in  mine.  I  have  never  brought  any 
sorrow  or  affliction  upon  any  person,  to  my  knowledge.  I  have  never 
stood  still  and  seen  a  female  insulted.  I  was  never  backward  in 
placing  myself  in  front  of  the  enemy  during  the  last  war ;  and  I  be- 
lieve I  never  shrank  from  my  duty,  in  any  point,  since  I  first  belonged 
to  a  ship.  Why  then  should  I  fear  to  die  ?  The  Captain  with  whom 
I  am  now  going  to  ship  is  full  of  mercy  and  compassion.  He  wont 
reject  an  honest  tar  that's  done  his  duty.  If  you,  who  have  more  or 
less  earthly  passions  about  you,  have  been  so  kind  to  me,  why  should  I 
doubt  His  kindness  ?  Besides,  I  have  looked  death  in  the  face  too 
often  to  tremble  at  him  now."     It  was  now  near  midnight. 

After  some  time  spent  in  expressing  his  gratitude  to  me,  which  was 
done  in  a  strain  that  I  do  not  think  proper  to  repeat,  he  added,  "  May 
God  bless  you,  sir,  and  your  good  lady;  who,  although  she  has  been 
lying  at  the  point  of  death  for  some  time,  has  been  robbing  herself  of 
many  little  dainties,  and  sending  them  forward  every  day  to  me  and 
my  sick  shipmates.  We  cared  nothing  for  the  sweetmeats,  and  such- 
like ;  but  it  was  the  action  we  looked  at — it  is  your  lady's  good-will 
towards  us  that  makes  us  all  so  grateful.  I  once  heard  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Chase  say,  when  preaching  in  the  Mariners'  Church  in  Koosevelt- 
street,  at  New- York, — Ah  !  I  shall  never  see  that  flag  again, — Grati- 
tude, he  said,  was  an  evidence  of  grace  in  the  heart.  I  hope  it  is  so, 
for  I  can  assure  you,  my  dear  sir,  that  the  Antarctic  has  some  grateful 
hearts  on  board." 

After  many  more  expressions  of  this  kind,  he  begged  me  to  leave  hiai, 


348  DEATH  OF  SPINNEY.  [1829. 

and  go  to  my  sick  wife  and  the  officers,  as  they  might  need  my  assist-  ^^ 
ance.  1  immediately  went  aft,  where  I  found  that  my  wife  was  totally  r' 
deprived  of  lier  reason  by  the  violence  of  her  fever,  and  that  Mr.  Hunt 
was  in  the  same  helpless  situation.  Three  of  the  seamen,  also,  ap- 
peared to  be  struck  with  death,  viz.  Alexander  Moony,  of  New- York ; 
George  Strong,  of  Albany ;  and  William  Baker,  of  England.  They 
said  they  believed  they  were  dying,  and  wished  to  take  their  leave  of 
jne.  I  expressed  a  hope  that  their  present  feelings  resulted  from  the 
breaking  of  the  fever,  which  was  evidently  at  a  crisis,  and  if  such  was 
the  case,  their  sensations  must  of  necessity  be  very  disagreeable  ;  and 
that  they  must  not  be  alarmed  at  seeing  themselves  fall  away  to  mere 
skeletons  in  a  few  hours.  This  was  the  fact.  While  the  fever  was 
on  them,  they  were  apparently  gaining  flesh ;  but  the  moment  the 
fever  left  them  they  became  thin  and  collapsed,  attended  with  exces- 
sive weakness. 

Poor  Spinney,  who  was  lying  near  them,  addressed  himself  to  them 
with  his  usual  technicality — "  Shipmates,"  said  he,  "  you  need  not  begin 
to  look  out  for  land  yet,  for  you  have  not  yet  come  anywhere  near 
soundings.  I  have  been  on  soundings  now  for  about  thirty-six  hours, 
with  a  fair  wind,  wafting  me  gently  in  towards  the  shore  ;  and  I  have 
lately  shoalen'd  my  water  so  fast,  that  I  shall  soon  make  the  land  of 
Paradise  ;  where,  after  passing  the  channel  of  death,  I  shall  moor  my 
little  vessel  head  and  stern,  and  keep  all  a-tanto,  as  we  shall  never 
have  a  breeze  in  that  Pacific  Ocean  that  will  drag  such  a  ship  as  mine 
from  her  moorings." 

He  was  now  sUent  a  few  minutes,  and  then  said  that  he  felt  himself 
going  very  fast.  "  Captain  Morrell,"  said  he,  "  my  life-lines  are  car- 
ried away  ;  but  1  have  got  a  Branch  Pilot  that  will  carry  me  safely  into 
port.  He  has  ab-eady  taken  the  helm,  and  in  a  few  moments  I  shall 
be  over  the  bar^  and  safely  moored  in  the  sailors  snug  harbour.  Fare- 
well, captain,  and  be  sure  to  engage  this  same  Pilot ;  He  is  the  only 
one  that  has  a  branch ;  and  you  must  engage  him  beforehand,  for 
such  are  His  conditions.  Farewell,  shipmates — remember  the  Pilot — 
his  name  is  Jesus." 

After  saying  much  more  to  the  same  purpose,  and  thanking  God 
that  he  retained  his  senses  to  the  last,  he  once  more  gave  me  his  hand, 
and  then  said,  "  Captain,  tell  me  if  I  lie  as  I  should ;"  then  folding  his 
hands  across  his  breast,  closing  his  eyes,  he  once  more  repeated  the 
words  "  God  bless  you,  captain !  Oh,  blessed  Jesus,  how  happy  I 
am  to  be  with  thee  !"  In  two  minutes  more  he  was  a  corpse.  This  . 
occurred  at  one  hour  after  midnight — a  gloomy  hour  for  us  all. 

This  incident  appeared  to  strike  terror  into  the  hearts  of  all  the  rest 
of  the  crew  ;  it  being  the  second  death  in  about  twenty-six  hours,  while 
two  others  were  added  to  the  sick  list,  with  little  grounds  for  hope  that 
any  of  the  sick  would  recover.  The  heat  of  the  weather,  the  mercury 
being  at  93'^,  rendered  it  necessary  to  hasten  the  funeral  obsequies  of 
poor  Spinney,  A^iiich  took  place,  with  every  customary  solemnity,  on 
the  following  morning,  at  half-past  eleven,  A.  M.,  in  lat.  22°  30'  S., 
long.  21°  15'  W.  The  scene  was  rendered  more  solemn  by  the  still- 
ness of  the  atmosphere  and  the  smoothness  of  the  ocean,  which  spread 


Nov.]  A  SICK  WIFE.  349 

around  us  like  a  polished  mirror.  Tlie  topsail  was  settled  on  the  cap, 
the  main-peak  dropped,  and  the  ensign  at  half-mast ;  and  each  of  them 
seemed  to  sleep,  or  rather  to  droop,  in  silent  sorrow.  We  had  just 
parted  with  the  south-east  trade-winds. 

These  solemnities  were  scarce  completed,  when  my  brother-in-law 
came  to  me  with  the  heart-rending  intelligence  that  his  sister  was 
dying !  My  cup  of  affliction  now  seemed  to  be  full — my  bosom  was 
more  than  full — I  felt  a  suffocating  sensation  in  my  throat,  which  pre- 
cluded the  possibility  of  speech.  I  turned  to  follow  him  aft,  when  one 
of  the  sailors  told  me  that  William  Baker  and  George  Strong  were 
both  dying,  and  wished  to  see  me.  I  was  now,  for  a  few  moments, 
completely  unmanned,  and  gave  free  vent  to  my  feelings,  throwing  my 
arms  around  her  brother's  neck, 

"  And,  like  a  school-boy,  blubbered  on  his  bosom." 

A  dying  wife  on  one  hand — two  dying  seamen  on  the  other — both 
claims  imperative — both  urged  by  duty — one  by  the  tenderest  affection. 
For  some  moments  I  hesitated,  and  knew  not  how  to  decide.  Self 
had  to  yield.  I  motioned  the  brother  to  return  to  the  fair  sufferer  in 
the  cabin,  while  I  descended  into  the  forecastle,  where  I  found  the 
two  men  alluded  to  raving  like  maniacs,  under  the  influence  of  deli- 
rium, caused  by  the  raging  fever,  -which  had  again  set  in  with  ten- 
fold violence.  Finding,  however,  on  examining  their  situation,  that 
they  were  not  so  low  as  they  had  been  reported  to  be,  I  left  them,  and 
hastened  aft  to  my  suffering  wife,  who  had  just  come  out  of  a  fit  of  the 
fever,  and  was  now  falling  into  a  doze. 

As  I  approached  her  bedside,  I  heard  her  say,  "  Oh,  Benjamin  is 
with  those  poor  sick  men,  or  he  would  not  have  been  absent  so  long. 
I  fear  that  somethmg  is  the  matter — they  must  be  getting  worse."  I 
then  spoke  to  her,  and  asked  her  if  she  was  sensible  of  being  any 
M'orse  herself.  "  I  think  I  am,"  was  her  reply.  "  But  how  are  the 
poor  sailors  ?  How  are  Samuel  Geer}',  and  Daniel  Spinney,  and  all 
the  rest  of  the  sick  ?"  I  answered,  evasively,  that  they  were  about 
the  same  as  they  were  in  the  morning.  "  Ah,  me  !"  she  replied,  "  what 
would  poor  Geery's  mother  do,  if  she  knew  that  her  son  was  so  sick 
on  the  wide  ocean ;  it  would  almost  make  her  crazy.  I  heard  her 
say,  only  a  day  or  two  before  we  sailed,  M'hile  she  was  making  some 
shirts  and  things  for  Samuel,  that  it  appeared  to  her  as  if  she  was 
making  a  shroud  for  him."  I  told  my  wife  that  affection  often  con- 
jured up  such  phantoms  of  the  imagination,  and  begged  her  not  to 
fatigue  herself  with  talking ;  but  she  gave  her  brother  directions,  as 
usual,  to  carry  refreshments  to  the  patients  in  the  forecastle. 

I  now  found  that  Mr.  Hunt  was  so  low  that  he  was  unable  to  turn 
himself  in  bed,  except  when  the  fever  was  on  him ;  at  which  time  he 
would  rave  in  the  most  boisterous  manner.  During  those  paroxysms 
of  the  fever,  his  flesh,  like  that  of  my  wife,  was  so  extremely  hot  that 
it  almost  burnt  my  hand  to  touch  any  part  of  the  surface  of  his  body ; 
■while  the  skin  was  so  excessively  dry  that  it  seemed  on  the  point  of 
cracking. 


350  GLOOMY  PROSPECTS.  [1829, 

Nov.  5th. — On  Tliursday,  the  5ili,  we  were  in  latitude  26°  50'  south, 
long.  21°  30'  west,  about  lour  hundred  leagues  east  of  the  Isle  of  St. 
Catharine,  on  the  coast  of  Brazil.  The  fever  still  raged  with  great 
violence  among  the  unfortunate  inmates  of  the  Antarctic.  Through 
the  mercy  of  Providence,  my  health  yet  remained  unimpaired,  not- 
withstanding my  continued  watchfulness  and  anxiety  of  mind.  I 
acknowledged  this  favour  with  gratitude,  as  I  did  also  that  of  lyoderate 
breezes,  fair  weather,  and  a  smooth  sea,  which  attended  us  during  this 
period  of  aflliction. 

Not:  9th. — On  Monday,  tlie  9tli  of  November,  1  was  happy  to  per- 
ceive that  the  fever  had  left  Mr.  Scott  and  tv/o  of  the  seamen,  aflbrding 
reasonable  hopes  of  their  ultimate  recovery.  The  rest  still  remained 
in  a  very  critical,  if  not  hopeless  situation.  This  day  my  wife  sent  for 
and  told  me  that  she  would  no  longer  conceal  from  me  the  fact  that 
her  hours  were  numbered,  as  she  felt  that  she  could  not  survive  another 
day.  She  therefore  wislied  to  communicate  freely  with  me  on  the 
subject,  and  charge  me  with  some  messages  for  her  mother,  father, 
brothers,  sisters,  and  our  dear  little  boy,  who  would  soon  be  a  mother- 
less orphan.  She  wished  me  to  cut  off  some  of  her  hair,  and  give 
each  of  them  a  lock ;  with  an  injunction  to  preserve  it  for  the  sake 
of  one  who  had  loved  them,  and  prayed  for  their  happiness  day  and 
night. 

"  Tell  my  dear  mother  not  to  weep  forme,"  said  she  ;  "  for  I  shall 
die  happy,  and  expect  to  meet  her  in  heaven.  Tell  my  brothers  and 
sisters  to  be  kind  to  their  mother,  and  to  seek  their  Creator  in  the  days 
of  their  youth.  Tell  them  to  be  kind  to  our  dear  little  boy,  and  early- 
initiate  him  in  the  path  of  virtue,  which  alone  leads  to  happiness.  I 
need  not  ask  you,  Benjamin,  to  be  kind  to  your  son,  the  pledge  of  our 
mutual  loves ;  but  I  pray  you  to  be  so  to  my  alllicted  mother,  and  to 
all  the  family.  I  know  she  will  grieve  on  account  of  my  not  returning 
with  you,  and  make  herself  sick.  But  you  will  comfort  her,  Benjamin, 
and  assure  her  that  I  died  happy.  Do  not  fail  to  bring  up  our  dear 
little  boy  in  the  fear  of  the  Lord.  Have  a  locket  made  of  my  hair, 
and  tell  our  little  William  that  he  must  always  wear  it  about  his  neck ; 
that  when  he  looks  at  it,  he  may  be  reminded  that  he  once  had  a  fond 
and  doling  mother,  who  blessed  him  with  her  dying  breath  ;  and  teach 
him  to  pray  that  he  may  meet  her  in  heaven." 

.  After  a  little  pause,  she  contiilued  :  "  There  is  only  one  thing,  Ben- 
jamin, that  makes  me  feel  unpleasant ;  and  that  is,  the  idea  of  my  body 
being  thrown  overboard,  after  my  departure,  and  becoming  food  for 
sharks."  On  saying  this,  she  was  extremely  affected,  and  wept  aloud. 
Were  I  to  live  till  the  day  of  general  doom,  the  pang  I  felt  at  that 
moment  would  be  still  fresh  in  my  recollection.  It  was  anguish  un- 
luterable — like  cutting  in  twain  the  life-strings  of  my  heart ;  knowing, 
as  I  did,  that  nothing  but  the  purest  affection  for  me  had  induced  hc^ 
to  accompany  me  on  this  disastrous  enterprise.  As  soon  as  I  could 
command  mv  voice,  I  assured  her,  in  the  most  solemn  manner,  that  if 
her  dear  spirit  was  called  hence  by  her  Saviour,  the  mortal  covering 
which  it  must  first  put  off  should  be  carefully  and  sacredly  preserved, 
until  it  could  be  decently  deposited  in  consecrated  ground ;  or,  if  such 


Nov.]  CONVALESCENCE—TRISTAN  D'ACUNHA.  351 

was  her  desire,  until  my  return  to  New- York.  She  thanked  me  sweetly 
for  this  assurance,  and  said  if  her  body  could  only  be  kept  from  the 
monsters  of  the  deep,  she  cared  not  on  what  distant  shore  it  was 
buried.  I  repeated  my  promise,  which  acted  like  a  charm  on  her 
drooping  spirits,  and  wonderfully  revived  her  languishing  frame.  At 
her  own  earnest  request,  I  now  left  her,  to  look  to  the  sick  oJfKcers 
and  seamen,  and  administer  such  medicines  and  refreshments  as  their 
circumstances  required. 

Nov.  I2th. — On  Thursday,  the  r2th,  I  found,  to  my  unspeakable 
joy,  that  the  fever  had  left  my  wife,  and  all  the  seamen,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  George  Strong,  and  the  first  officer,  IVIr.  Moses  Hunt,  who 
>vere  still  lying  very  low,  and  not  expected  to  live. 
-  Nov.  lith. — On  Saturday,  the  14th,  however,  I  had  the  satisfaction 
of  seeing  the  Antarctic  entirely  free  from  the  disease,  though  many  of 
its  inmates  were  much  debilitated.  If  ever  an  ejaculation  of  heartfelt 
thanksgiving  ascended  from  human  lips  to  the  throne  of  Divine  Mercy, 
it  was  on  that  day.  The  convalescent  seamen  now  began  to  evince 
the  welcome  symptoms  of  returning  appetites,  which  M'as  also  the  case 
with  my  wife,  in  whose  eyes  I  could  perceive  a  faint  dawning  of  their 
former  brilliancy.  AVe  had  now  been  five  weeks  on  the  ocean,  and  the 
condition  of  the  invalids  on  board  made  it  very  desirable  to  touch 
at  some  port  and  procure  refreshments.  The  islands  of  Tristan 
d'Acunha  being  near  at  hand,  I  resolved  to  make  them  as  soon  as  possible. 
We  were  now  in  latitude  36°  2'  south,  long.  14"^  22,  west,  with  the 
wind  from  south-south-west ;  atmosphere  hazy. 

Nov.  15th. — Accordingly,'thenextday,  which  was  Sunday,  the  15lh, 
at  4  P.  M.,  saw  the  Antarctic  close  in  with  the  north  side  of  the  largest 
island  of  the  three,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,  with  fine  weather, 
and  a  moderate  breeze  from  south-west.  Here  we  lay  ofl"  and  on, 
until  we  had  taken  on  board  a  large  supply  of  refreshments,  including 
live-stock,  such  as  sheep,  pigs,  poultry,  &:c.,  with  a  variety  of  vegetables, 
"which  were  of  great  value  to  us  in  our  present  situation,  and  assisted 
much  in  restoring  our  invalids  to  health.  We  found  only  seven  families 
on  this  island,  living  a  retired  life,  far  from  the  bustle  and  confusion  of 
tlie  world,  and  happy  within  themselves,  having  at  their  command  all 
the  necessaries  and  many  of  the  comforts  of  life. 


352  TRISTAN  D'ACUNHA.  [1829. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Island  of  Tristan  d'Acunha — King  Lambert — Governor  Glass — Gongh's  Island — 
Kerguclen's  Land — Cape  Desolation — Lord  Auckland's  Group — New-year's 
Festivities — Learning  to  walk — Natural  Productions  of  the  Island — The 
Schooner  Henry,  Captain  Johnson,  their  probable  Fate — The  Snares — Stew- 
art's Isle,  or  South  Cape  of  New-Zealand — Molyneux's  Harbour — Intercourse 
with  the  Natives  of  New- Zealand. 

Tristan  D'Acunha  is  the  largest  of  three  islands  in  the  South  At- 
lantic ocean  ;  in  latitude  37°  8^  south,  long.  12°  8'  west;  about  fifteen 
hundred  miles  eastward  from  the  mouth  of  Rio  de  la  Plata,  in  South 
America,  and  about  the  same  distance  west-bj^-south  from  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope.  It  is  fifteen  miles  in  circumference,  and  is  so  much 
elevated,  that  it  can  be  seen,  in  clear  weather,  at  the  distance  of  twenty- 
five  leagues.  The  three  islands  together  form  a  triangle,  of  which 
Tristan  is  the  north-east  point.  The  other  two  islands  were  named 
by  the  French,  in  1767;  the  most  westerly  being  called  Inaccessible^ 
and  the  other,  which  is  the  smallest  and  most  southerly,  Nightingale 
Island. 

In  approaching  this  group  from  the  north,  we  make  the  largest  island, 
Tristan,  at  a  vast  distance,  varying,  of  course,  according  to  the  state  of 
the  atmosphere.  A  part  of  the  island,  towards  the  north,  rises  perpen- 
dicularly from  the  sea,  to  the  height  of  a  thousand  feet  or  more.  A 
level  tRen  commences,  extending  towards  the  centre,  forming  what 
seamen  term  table-land ;  above  which  rises  a  conical  mountain,  not  un- 
like in  appearance  the  Peak  of  Teneriffe,  as  seen  from  the  bay  of 
Santa  Cruz.  Trees  grow  half-way  up  this  sugar-loaf  eminence,  but 
above  that  it  consists  of  bare  and  rugged  rocks,  frequently  hidden  by 
the  clouds  ;  with  a  summit  which  is  covered  with  snow  during  the 
greatest  part  of  the  year,  notwithstanding  that  no  snow  falls  on  the 
coast.  In  coming  close  in  with  the  north  side  of  this  island,  the  An- 
"Tarctic  was  completely  overshadowed  by  that  perpendicular  elevation 
of  a  thousand  feet,  which  rises  '•  like  a  moss-grown  wall  immediately 
from  the  ocean."  There  are  no  shoals  or  other  dangers  about  the 
island,  which  is  of  circular  shape,  with  bold  shores  and  deep  water. 

On  the  north-west  side  of  the  island  is  a  bay,  with  a  fine  beach  of 
black  sand,  where  boats  may  land  with  southerly  winds ;  this  bay, 
however,  is  open  and  exposed  to  winds  from*  the  opposite  quarter. 
Here  are  two  cascades  of  excellent  water,  in  sufficient  quantity  to 
supply  a  large  fleet ;  and  the  casks  could  be  filled  by  means  of  a  long 
hose,  without  moving  them  from  the  boats.  A  plenty  of  fish  may  be 
caught  with  hook  and  line,  among  which  are  an  excellent  kind  of  large 
perch,  some  weighing  six  pounds,  crawfish,  and  a  fine  species  of  the 
cod.  Good  anchorage  may  be  found  close  in  to  the  land,  in  eighteen 
fathoms  of  water ;  also  at  a  quarter  of  a  league  from  shore,  in  thirty 
fathoms,  gray  sand  mixed  with  small  pebbles. 


Nov.]  TRISTAN  D'ACUNHA.  353 

Inaccessible  Island,  which  forms  the  western  point  of  the  triangle, 
lies  in  latitude  37°  17' south,  long.  12°  24' west.  It  presents  a  high 
bluff,  of  forbidding  appearance,  which  may  be  seen  at  the  distance  of 
twelve  or  fourteen  leagues.  It  is  about  six  miles  in  circmnference, 
with  a  high  Hat  top,  barren,  steep,  and  apparently  inaccessible ;  some 
scattered  shrubs  onlv  are  to  be  seen  on  it.  There  are  no  dangers  about 
it,  with  the  exception  of  a  rock,  which  appears  like  a  boat  under 
sail,  at  the  south-east  point.  The  ship  Blenden  Hall,  Captain  Greig, 
from  London  to  Bombay,  wa;^  totally  lost  on  this  island,  on  the  23d 
of  July,  1821 ;  eight  of  the  crew  perished,  in  attempting  to  reach 
Tristan  in  an  open  boat,  of  their  own  construction. 

Nightingale  Island,  the  smallest  of  the  group,  forms  the  southern 
point  of  the  triangle,  and  lies  in  latitude  37°  26'  south,  long.  12°  12' 
west.  It  is  descried  at  the  distance  of  seven  or  eight  leagues,  appears 
irregTilar,  with  a  hollow  in  the  middle,  and  a  small  rocky  islet  at  its 
southern  extremity.  Captain  Patten,  of  the  ship  Industry,  of  Phila- 
delphia, mentions  "  a  high  reef  of  rocks,  or  rocky  islets,  off  the  south 
end  of  the  smallest  island  ;"  and  M.  d'Etchevery,  a  French  navigator, 
says,  "  It  has  on  the  north-east  point  two  islets,  separated  from  it  about 
fifty  paces,  and  which  have  the  appearance  of  an  old  ruined  fort." 

This  group  was  first  discovered  by  the  Portuguese  in  their  earlier 
navigations  in  these  seas,  and  was  further  explored  and  described  by  the 
Dutch  in  1643,  and  by  the  French  in  1767.  The  islands  are  all  of  a 
circular  shape,  and  consist  of  very  high  land,  with  clear  open  passages 
between  them.  They  are  about  three  and  five  leagues  apart.  Their 
shores  are  frequented  by  hair  and  fur-seal,  sea-lions,  sea-elephants, 
penguins,  and  albatross.  Whales  abound  in  the  offing,  and  I  saw 
several  sword-fish  near  the  coast. 

Captain  Patten,  mentioned  above,  resided  for  seven  months*  on  Tris- 
tan, the  largest  of  these  islands,  with  a  part  of  his  crew,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  collecting  seal-skins  ;  during  which  time  he  obtained  five  thou- 
sand six  hundred,  for  the  Chinese  m.arket ;  and  could,  he  says,  have 
loaded  a  large  ship  with  oil  in  three  weeks.  September  he  reckoned 
to  be  the  best  month  for  making  oil  at  these  islands.  He  says  that 
during  his  stay  here,  "  the  prevailing  winds  were  from  the  northward 
and  westward ;  the  easterly  and  southerly  winds  blowing  but  seldom, 
and  scarcely  ever  longer  than  twenty-four  hours  at  a  time.  It  gene- 
rally blows  fresh,  and  frequently  very  hard,  from  the  north-west ;  and 
when  a  gale  came  on,  it  was  generally  preceded  by  a  very  heavy  sea, 
rolling  in  someiimes  twelve,  and  sometimes  twenty-four  hours,  before 
the  wind  rose.  The  weather  is  very  subject  to  be  thick  and  hazy, 
attended  with  much  rain.  The  summer  months  are  warm,  and  the  cold 
in  winter  is  not  severe." 

Captain  Patten's  people  pitched  their  tents  near  the  bay  before  men- 
tioned and  the  waterfalls,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  there  is  a  plenty 
of  wood.  He  tells  us  "  the  trees  do  not  grow  high,  but  their  branches 
bend  down  and  spread  on  the  ground.  The  foliage  of  the  trees  that 
principally  abound  resembles  that  of  the  yew-tree,  but  the  wood  is 

»  From  August,  1790,  to  April,  1791, 

z 


:354  TRISTAN  D'ACUNHA.  [1829. 

like  that  of  the  maple,  and  burns  remarkably  well ;  the  trunks  are 
full  ten  feet  in  hciglit,  and  about  nine  inches  in  diameter.  There 
arc  no  large  or  tall  trees  to  be  met  \vith.  A  great  deal  of  drift-wood 
is  found  on  the  east  side  of  the  island,  but  none  to  the  westward. 
Abundance  of  wild  celery,  sour  dock  (sorrel),  and  wild  parsley  is  met 
with." 

With  respect  to  animals,  the  number  and  variety  have  been  con- 
siderably augmented  since  Captain  Paiten  was  here  in  1791,  when 
there  were  no  quadrupeds  to  be  met  with  on  tlie  island,  "  except  some 
goats,  left  there  by  former  navigators,  which  were  very  wild."  There 
are  now  bullocks,  sheep,  goats,  hogs,  dogs,  and  rabbits.  "  Neither 
vermin  nor  venomous  creatures  of  any  description,"  says  he,  "were 
observed.  Of  birds,  the  principal  were  a  kind  of  gannets,  like  wild 
geese,  which  the  sailors  considered  as  excellent  food  ;  penguins,  alba- 
tross. Cape  cocks  and  hens,  and  a  bird  like  a  partridge,  but  of  a  black 
colour,  which  cannot  fly,  is  easily  run  down,  and  is  very  well  flavoured ; 
and  a  variety  of  small  birds  that  frequent  the  bushes  and  underwood. 
Abundance  of  birds'  eggs  are  to  be  obtained  in  the  proper  season." 

The  most  conspicuous  feature  of  this  island  is  the  sugar-loaf  or 
conical  mountain,  near  its  centre.  Between  the  foot  of  this  mountain 
and  the  shore  there  is  a  considerable  extent  of  level  land,  "  the  soil 
of  which  is  a  fine  rich  loam,  of  a  red  colour,  and  considerable  depth, 
apparently  adapted  to  the  production  of  every  kind  of  vegetables  ;  and 
excepting  the  danger  of  devastation  from  high  winds,  adequate  to  any 
sjultivation."  The  productions  of  the  other  islands  are  nearly  the  same 
as  those  of  the  large  one.  Captain  Colquhoun,  of  the  American  brig 
Betsy,  touched  at  Tristan,  and  planted  potatoes,  onions,  and  a  variety 
of  other  seeds,  which  grew  and  multiplied. 

Captain  Heywood  was  at  this  island  in  1811,  where  he  found  three 
Americans,  who  proposed  remaining  a  few  years,  in  order  to  prepare 
seal-skins  and  oil,  and  sell  the  same  to  vessels  that  might  touch  there. 
One  of  these  enterprising  Yankees  was  named  Jonathan  Lambert,  who 
by  a  curious  and  singular  edict  declared  himself  sovereign  proprietor 
of  these  islands.  "  In  a  short  time  he  cleared  about  fifty  acres  of  land, 
and  planted  various  kinds  of  seed,  some  of  which,  as  well  as  the  coffee- 
tree  and  sugar-cane,  were  furnished  by  the  American  minister  at  Rio 
Janeiro.  The  seeds  sprang  up,  appeared  very  promising,  and  the 
general  aspect  was  that  of  a  valuable  and  important  settlement.  The 
'^s'hole  was,  however,  abandoned,  and  final  possession  afterward  taken 
'in  the  name  of  the  British  government,  by  a  detachment  from  the  Cape 
jof  Good  Hope."     This  was  in  the  year  1817. 

After  all  this,  however,  the  island  was  again  evacuated,  and  given  up 
as  a  British  establishment,  when  several  families  voluntarily  went  to 
it,  and  took  up  their  abode  on  it,  entirely  independent  of  control  from 
that  government.  "The  island  of  Tristan  d'Acunha,"  says  a  London 
paper  of  April,  1824,  "  has  now  upon  it,  living  in  great  happiness, 
itwenty-two  men  and  three  women.  The  Berwick,  Captain  Jefferj-, 
vfrom  London  to  Van  Dieman's  Land,  sent  her  boat  ashore  on  the 
25th  of  March.  The  sailors  were  surprised  at  finding  an  Englishman 
oi  the  name  of  Glass,  formerly  a  corporal  in  the  artillery,  and  the  rest 


]Vov.]  COUGH'S  ISLAND.  355 

of  the  above-named  population.  Glass  gave  a  very  favourable  account 
of  the  island,  and  declared  that  if  they  had  but  a  few  more  women, 
the  place  would  be  an  earthly  paradise.  He  is  a  sort  of  governor  at 
Tristan  d'Acunha,  by  appointment  of  the  rest,  on  account  of  his  mili- 
tary character  ;  and  he  trades  in  a  small  schooner  to  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  with  the  oil  of  the  sea-elephant  and  the  skins  of  the  seal,  which 
they  catch  in  great  abundance." 

At  the  time  that  we  touched  at  this  island,  on  the  15th  of  Novem- 
ber, 1829,  we  found  seven  families,  living  very  comfortably  under  the  ad- 
ministration of  Governor  Glass, having  for  sale  a  plenty  of  bullocks,  cows, 
sheep,  hogs,  goats,  rabbits,  and  poultry ;  also  potatoes,  cabbages,  beets, 
parsnips,  carrots,  onions,  and  pumpkins  ;  together  with  butter,  cheese, 
eggs,  and  milk  :  all  of  which  can  be  had  at  short  notice,  on  moderate 
.€rms,  and  in  any  quantities.  Some  of  the  invalids  of  the  Antarctic 
pronounced  this  island  to  be  "  a  land  flowing  with  milk  and  honey." 
Tlie  inhabitants  were  very  friendly,  accommodating,  and  hospitable  ; 
and  expressed  their  sympathy  for  the  situation  of  my  crew,  not  so  much 
in  words  as  in  actions.  They  pressed  upon  me  many  little  palatable 
dainties,  with  a  disinterestedness  and  delicacy  which  did  them  honour. 
I  hope  to  call  and  see  them  again. 

November  17 th, — On  Monday,  the  16th,  at  7,  P.  M.,  we  left  the 
island  of  Tristan  d'Acunha,  and  steered  to  the  south  and  east,  with  a 
moderate  breeze  from  west-south-west,  and  fair  weather ;  and  on  Tues- 
day, the  17th  (nautical  time),  at  5,  A.  M.,  we  were  close  in  with 
Gough's  Island,  or  Diego  Alvarez,  as  it  was  originally  named  by  the 
Portuguese  who  discovered  it.  In  1713  it  was  seen  by  Captain 
Charles  Gough,  in  the  Richmond,  bound  to  China  ;  since  which  it  has 
been  called  by  his  name.  In  1811,  on  the  8th  of  January,  it  was 
visited  by  Captain  Heywood,  in  the  Nereus,  who  situated  the  centre 
of  the  island  in  latitude  49^  19'  30"  S.,  and  in  longitude  9<5  49'  W.  I 
agree  with  him  in  the  latitude ;  but  we  differ  in  the  longitude,  as  I 
make  the  east  point  of  the  island  in  long.  9^  41' W. 

The  summit  of  this  island,  according  to  Captain  Heywood's  calcula- 
tion, is  four  thousand  three  hundred  and  eighty  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea ;  the  surface  being  mostly  covered  with  a  light  coat  of  mossy 
grass.  In  some  places  were  a  few  small  bushy  trees,  like  those  of 
Tristan  d'Acunha.  "  The  cliffs  rise  preciphously  from  the  sea,  and 
from  their  fissures  issue  several  beautiful  cascades  of  water."  On  thp 
north  side  of  the  island,  a  little  to  the  eastward  of  one  of  the  rocky 
islets  which  adjoin  that  side  of  the  main  island,  is  a  small  cove,  in 
which  boats  may  land  with  perfect  safety,  when  the  wind  blows  from 
any  point  south  of  north-west  or  east.  Here  water  may  be  obtained 
with  ease,  by  running  the  vessel  close  in  to  the  front  of  the  cove,  where 
she  can  anchor  in  twelve  or  fourteen  fathoms,  with  the  huts  at  the 
head  of  the  cove  bearing  south-south-west,  and  the  north  and  eastern- 
most islet  bearing  about  norih-west.  There  is  a  safe  passage  between 
these  islets  and  the  main  island,  with  fifteen  fathoms  of  water,  over  a 
rocky  bottom. 

There  is  a  rock  near  the  north-east  point  of  the  island,  which  ex- 
actly resembles  a  church,  having  an  elevated  spire  on  its  western  end ; 


356  CONVALIISCENT  PATIE^TS.  [182^ 

and  it  is  called  Church  Rock.  "  To  ihe  southward  of  this  rock,  on 
the  east  side  of  the  island,  near  the  shore,  there  is  jm  inlet  within 
which  the  landing  is  safe  and  easy,  it  being  protected  from  the  swell 
and  northerly  winds  by  the  north-east  point.  Here  several  Americans 
formerly  resided  :  but  they  had  been  unsuccessful  during  a  long  stay, 
most  of  the  seal  having  deserted  the  island  ;  but  plenty  of  fish  were 
procured,  and  birds  of  good  flavour  were  caught,  by  lighting  ii  fire  upon 
one  of  the  hills  in  the  night." 

This  island  used  to  abound  with  fur-seal  and  sea-elepliants ;  but 
they  were  so  much  annoyed  by  their  relentless  persecutors,  that  they 
have  sought  more  safe  and  distant  retreats — perhaps  some  lonely  isles 
in  the  southern  ocean,  as  yet  unknown  to  the  fell  destroyer,  man  ? 
These  places  might  be  easily  found,  however,  if  merchants  were 
willing  to  risk  the  expense  of  the  attempt.  But  our  capitalists^ 
generally,  are  timid  adventurers,  and  cautious  of  venturing  out  of  old- 
beaten  tracks. 

November  ISth. — On  Wednesday,  the  18th,  we  continued  on  our 
course  to  the  south  and  east,  wafted  along  by  fine  western  breezes. 
The  sick  now  began  to  recover,  so  as  to  sit  up  for  a  few  minutes  at  a 
time  ;  but  they  appeared  more  like  living  skeletons  than  any  thing  else 
I  can  now  compare  them  to.  Their  countenances  were  peaked,  sunken, 
hollow,  cadaverous,  and,  in  short,  horribly  frightful — full  as  much  so 
as  those  of  cholera  patients  in  a  state  of  collapse.  But  they  were 
evidently  improving  slowly,  as  they  could  take  chicken  soup  quite 
freely,  together  with  a  little  custard,  made  of  the  milk  which  I  pro- 
cured at  Tristan  d'Acunha,  and  which  was  boiled  and  bottled  up  for 
the  use  of  the  sick. 

My  wife  now  began  to  gain  a  little  strength,  so  that  she  could  sit  up 
in  her  bed  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  at  a  time.  But  the  fever  had  left 
her  a  perfect  cripple,  being  quite  drawn  out  of  shape ;  as  her  limbs 
could  not  be  straightened,  and  her  ankles  were  drawn  nearly  up  to  her 
body.  But  still  she  suffered  no  pain.  The  application  of  various 
kinds  of  liniments  produced  no  good  effect,  and  poultices  were  equally 
unsuccessful.  I  next  tried  a  very  strong  decoction  of  tobacco,  with 
which  I  bathed  the  affected  parts  several  times  a  day,  concluding  the 
operation  by  binding  on  the  leaves,  and  keeping  them  moist  with  the 
liquid  in  which  they  had  been  boiled.  A  steady  perseverance  in  this 
course  of  treatment  was  crowned  with  success  ;  her  limbs  were  re- 
stored to  their  natural  position,  and  the  symmetry  of  her  person  re- 
mained unimpaired. 

Some  of  the  seamen  were  now  taken  down  with  a  violent  flux, 
which  I  vainly  endeavoured  to  check  with  all  the  assistance  I  could 
derive  from  the  medicine-chest.  They  grew  worse,  and  became  ex- 
cessively weak.  I  then  peeled  white  oak-bark  from  the  firewood 
which  we  had  on  board,  and  boiled  it  to  a  strong  tea,  which  I  re- 
peatedly administered  to  them,  in  very  small  doses,  for  the  space  of 
forty-eight  hours.  This  had  the  desired  eflect ;  their  bowels  became 
regular,  their  appetites  returned,  and  they  recovered  strength  very 
rapidly. 

November  "ilsi. — On  Saturday,  the  21st,  being  in  lat.  44°  30'  S., 


Pec]  KERGUELEN'S  L.\ND.  357 

long.  5^  45'  E.,  we  took  strong  gales  from  the  west  and  west-by-north, 
accompanied  with  a  heavy  sea.  Although  our  little  bark  was  an  ex- 
cellent sea-boat,  and  made  good  weather  of  it,  yet  it  was  a  very 
fatiguing  time  for  me,  as  it  was  necessary  for  me  to  stand  the  deck 
nearly  all  the  time,  the  officers  being  still  confined  to  the  cabin,  and  too 
weak  to  help  themselves.  The  convalescent  invalids  in  the  forecastle, 
also,  claimed  much  of  my  attention  and  assistance. 

We  continued  running  before  the  wind,  under  the  head  of  the  fore- 
sail and  close-reefed  fore-topsail,  making  a  direct  course  for  the  north 
cape  of  Kerguelen's  Land,  or  the  island  of  Desolation,*  going  a  great 
part  of  the  time  at  the  rate  of  thirteen  miles  an  hour,  in  snow  and 
hail-squalls,  for  about  a  fortnight. 

December  5th. — On  Saturday,  the  5th  day  of  December,  at  four,  A. 
M.,  we  made  the  north  cape  of  Desolation,  bearing  south-east,  distant 
three  leagues ;  and  at  six,  A.  M.,  we  were  close  in  with  the  entrance 
of  Christmas  Harbour.  But  finding  the  wind  coming  out  of  the  bay 
in  such  violent  gusts  as  took  the  water  up  in  sheets,  we  were  obhged 
to  relinquish  the  idea  of  working  into  the  anchorage.  We  therefore 
stood  alongshore,  on  the  east  side  of  the  island,  towards  the  south, 
under  easy  sail,  examining  the  islets  and  coast  as  we  went  along  for 
fur-seal,  but  found  none.  On  the  different  beaches,  however,  we  saw- 
about  a  thousand  sea-elephants. 

December  6th. — As  I  had  not  averaged  more  than  one  hour  and  a 
half  of  sleep  in  each  twenty-four  hours  since  we  crossed  the  equator, 
and  being  nearly  overcome  with  fatigue  and  anxiety  of  mind,  I  was 
desirous  to  bring  the  Antarctic  to  a  safe  anchorage  for  a  few  hours,  in 
order  that  I  might  enjoy  sufficient  repose  to  restore  my  exhausted 
energies.  But  this  desirable  object  could  not  be  conveniently  effected ; 
for  on  the  night  of  the  6th  the  wind  increased  to  a  perfeci  gale  from 
west-north-west,  attended  with  a  thick  snow-storm.  Being  satisfied, 
from  the  range  of  coast  which  we  had  already  examined,  and  from  the 
thorough  survey  that  I  had  given  this  island  on  a  former  voyage,  that 
there  were  no  fur-seal  to  be  procured  here,  we  bore  up  at  four,  A.  M., 
and  steered  east-south-east,  before  the  wind,  under  a  three-reefed  fore- 
sail, the  two  bonnets  off  the  jib,  and  a  close-reefed  fore-topsail.  Under 
this  little  canvass  we  made  three  hundred  and  twenty-seven  miles' 
distance  in  twenty-four  hours  ;  averaging  more  than  thirteen  and  a  half 
miles  an  hour  for  the  whole  distance.  We  continued  running  at  this 
rate  for  three  days,  when  we  found  that  we  had  made  nine  himdred 
and  fifty-seven  miles'  distance  by  log,  and  nine  hundred  and  eighty- 
two  by  astronomical  observations. 

December  I8th. — The  wind  now  moderated,  and  hauled  to  the  south- 
south-east,  with  Itght  breezes  and  fair  weather  ;  but  on  Friday,  the  18th, 
being  in  lat.  50°  30'  S.,  long.  127°  15  E.,  we  again  took  a  strong 
breeze  from  west-by-south,  attended  with  squalls  of  hail  and  snow. 
We  continued  our  course,  steering  for  Lord  Auckland's  Group,  without 
seeing  any  indications  of  land,  or  any  ice  ;  but  great  numbers  of  oceanic 

♦  See  the  Ftrst  Voyage,  Chapter  IV.,  p.  62. 


358  AUCKLAND'S  ISLES.  [183(r.. 

birds  of  clifTerent  kinds.  The  sick  were  now  recovering  very  fast,  but 
as  yet  neither  of  the  officers  was  able  to  stand  the  deck. 

December  28th. —  We  had  variable  winds  and  occasional  thick  wea- 
ther from  the  18th  until  Monday,  the  28th,  when  we  arrived  at  Lord 
Auckland's  Group,  and  at  eleven,  A.  M.,  anchored  in  Carnley's  Harbour, 
in  four  fathoms  of  water,  clay  bottom,  sheltered  from  all  winds. 

After  giving  the  Antarctic  the  whole  length  of  her  two  bower  cables,. 
I  had  our  invalids  all  brought  upon  deck,  to  enjoy  the  salubrity  of  the 
air,  the  beauty  of  the  scene,  and  the  delicious  fragrance  wafted  to  us 
from  the  neighbouring  groves,  which  abound  with  flowers  of  the  most 
beautiful  tints  and  the  sweetest  odours.  Nature  reigns  here  in  all  her 
virgin  charms,  unrifled,  unpolluted — for  man,  the  self-styled  lord  of  her 
treasures,  has  not  yet  intruded  on  this  Eden  of  the  south,  to  mar  the 
beauty  of  her  works. 

December  29th, — On  the  morning  of  Tuesday,  the  29th,  I  arose  from 
my  couch  refreshed  and  invigorated  by  the  first  night's  rest  I  had  en- 
joyed for  a  long  time.  The  weather  was  delightful ;  and  the  singing 
of  thousands  of  birds,  of  various  species,  was  very  exhilarating  to  our 
spirits.  We  again  brought  the  sick  upon  deck,  to  inhale  the  health- 
ful air,  and  enjoy  the  surrounding  prospect.  We  then  proceeded  to 
the  task  of  cleansing,  purifying,  and  disinfecting  every  part  of  the  An- 
tarctic which  was  capable  of  containing  the  least  impure  air.  Every 
article  of  bedding,  clothing,  <fec.,  from  the  largest  size  down  to  that 
of  a  pocket-handkerchief,  was  washed,  fumigated,  and  suspended  sep- 
arately on  the  rigging.  The  hold  and  cabin  were  smoked  with  sulphur, 
and  washed  with  vinegar  in  every  part  that  could  be  got  at. 

December  30th. — On  the  following  day,  which  was  Wednesday,  the 
30th,  the  convalescent  officers  and  seamen  were  so  much  recruited  in 
health  and  spirits  that  they  were  able  to  take  a  short  walk  on  shore, 
which  much  accelerated  the  progress  of  their  recovery.  On  their  return 
they  gave  the  most  animating  descriptions  of  the  fertility  and  beauty 
of  the  little  range  of  country  they  had  walked  over. 

December  31  st. — We  now  began  to  make  preparations  for  examin- 
ing the  island  for  fur-seal ;  and  on  Thursday,  the  3 1st,  Messrs.  Hunt 
and  Johnson  started  on  a  cruise  with  the  two  boats,  in  search  of  the 
animals  whose  garments  we  coveted.  Those  who  were  still  on  the 
sick-list  made  themselves  useful  in  repairing  the  sails  and  getting  the 
vessel  in  order,  after  her  thorough  purification. 

January  \st^  1830. — On  the  following  morning,  it  being  New-year's 
day,  the  compliments  of  the  season  were  most  cordially  given,  and 
as  heartily  reciprocated  by  every  soul  on  board.  The  day  was  cele- 
brated by  shooting  a  number  of  fine  wild-ducks,  on  which  the  invalids 
made  a  hearty  dinner.  Tn  the  afternoon  we  hauled  the  seine,  but  with 
310  great  success.  Before  we  returned  on  board,  however,  we  collected 
a  large  quantity  of  purslain  and  celery,  together  with  a  great  number 
of  beautiful  wild-flowers,  which  filled  the  cabin  and  forecastle  with 
such  a  grateful  perfume,  that  it  was  like  sleeping  among  roses.  We 
also  found  some  beautiful  berries,  of  which  I  brought  a  small  quantity 
on  board  to  my  wife,  who  appeared  much  enlivened  by  the  sight  of  the 


Jan.]  AUCKLAND  ISLES.  35^ 

flowers  and  the  fruit,  and  especially  by  a  little  bird,  of  exquisite  plu- 
mage, which  we  caught  in  the  forest. 

For  the  first  time  since  the  26ih  of  October,  my  wife  now  attempted 
to  walk  alone,  i)y  the  assistance  of  her  brother  and  myself,  who  sta- 
tioned ourselves  at  a  short  distance  apart  in  the  cabin,  with  our  arma 
extended,  while  she  would  totter  from  one  to  the  other,  in  the  same 
manner  as  an  infant  is  first  taught  to  venture  itself  alone  on  its  tiriy 
feet.  The  success  of  this  experiment  filled  her  with  such  joy  that  it 
quite  overcame  her ;  and  while  resting  her  head  on  my  shoulder,  she 
poured  out  from  the  fulness  of  her  heart  a  prayer  of  gratitude  and 
praise  to  Heaven,  for  this  and  other  blessings  she  had  experienced. 
On  becoming  a  little  more  composed,  she  exclaimed,  "  Oh,  if  my  deai* 
mother  could  but  just  see  me  beginning  to  learn  to  walk,  after  being 
deprived  so  long  of  the  use  of  my  limbs,  how  thankful  to  Heaven  she 
"Would  be,  for  this  act  of  mercy  to  her  daughter." 

In  the  course  of  a  subsequent  conversation,  of  a  very  affecting  and 
interesting  character,  respecting  the  afflictions  which  had  attended  our 
voyage  since  we  left  New-York,  she  evinced  so  much  philosophical 
calmness,  pious  resignation,  and  humble  reliance  on  the  wisdom  and 
mercy  of  her  Creator,  that  I  ventured  to  communicate  to  her,  for  the 
first  time,  the  fact  of  Geery  and  Spinney's  having  been  removed  to 
another  state  of  existence. 

The  shock  of  this  disastrous  intelligence  overcame  her  assumed 
fortitude  at  once ;  she  burst  into  tears,  and  for  some  time  refused  to- 
be  consoled.  Young  Geery  had  been  the  favoured  and  accepted  suiter 
of  her  sister,  to  whom  he  was  solemnly  betrothed  when  we  sailed  oi^ 
this  ill-omened  voyage.  "  Do  let  me  weep,  Benjamin,"  said  my  wife, 
"for  I  cannot  help  it — these  tears  will  relieve  my  almost  bursting 
heart.  He  was  the  lover  of  my  sister ;  and  a  more  noble  or  more 
manly  soul  never  animated  the  human  frame.  He  was  worthy  of  her 
affections,  and  he  possessed  them.  I  weep  for  her,  and  his  poor 
mother,  whose  heart  will  break  when  she  hears  the  dreadful  news. 
You  know,  Benjamin,  that  she  doted  on  Samuel ;  and  his  filial  affec- 
tion was  most  exemplary.  Poor  disconsolate  mother !  you  was  indeed 
making  the  shroud  of  your  son !" 

Why  should  I  prolong  or  extend  this  scene  any  farther  ?  I  can 
portray  but  a  very  faint  and  imperfect  picture  of  the  reality ;  and 
though  of  the  most  thrilling  interest  to  the  parties  concerned,  the  reader 
may  think  it  a  dull,  heavy  impediment  to  the  progress  of  the  voyage.. 
I  will  therefore  return  to  our  nautical  duties. 

Our  long,  aflecting,  and,  I  trust,  not  unprotilable  conversation  was- 
at  length  interrupted  by  the  arrival  on  board  of  some  of  our  invalicf 
seamen,  who  had  been  recreating  themselves  in  the  majestic  groves 
and  delightful  valleys  of  this  charming  island.  On  meeting  them  at 
the  gangway,  I  found  that  they  had  brought  a  few  berries,  and  a 
splendid  collection  of  the  most  beautiful  flowers,  intended,  they  said^ 
expressly  for  Mrs.  Morrell.  They  felt  their  health  and  strength  im- 
proving very  fast,  they  said,  and  hoped,  by  the  blessing  of  God,  to  be 
able  to  go  to  their  duty  on  the  following  day.     This  was  agreeable  in- 


360  CARNLEV'S  HARBOUR.  [1830. 

telligence  to  me,  as  we  had  considenible  work  to  do,  our  sails  and  rig- 
g'ms  being  very  much  out  of  repair. 

January  2d. — On  the  following  morning,  which  was  Saturday,  the 
2d  of  January,  after  committing  my  wife  to  the  care  of  h^  brother, 
and  setting  all  hands  at  work  that  were  on  board,  I  took  the  small 
boat  and -went  on  shore,  with  the  intention  of  taking  a  stroll  about  the 
island.  I  travelled  about  five  miles,  over  wood-crowned  hills,  fertile 
plains,  and  luxuriant  valleys  ;  and  on  my  return  to  the  vessel,  at  7, 
P.  M.,  I  carried  with  me,  as  trophies  and  specimens,  several  beautiful 
birds  which  I  had  shot,  and  a  large  collection  of  flowers. 

January/  ith. — On  Monday,  the  4th,  at  8,  P.  M.,  the  boats  returned, 
after  pulling  round  the  island,  without  seeing  a  single  fur-seal,  and  not 
more  than  twenty  of  the  hair  kind.  The  boats  were  immediately  taken 
np,  and  preparations  made  for  leaving  this  group  of  islands  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning.  In  the  mean  time,  I  presume  that  a  brief  description 
of  the  principal  one,  in  a  harbour  of  which  we  now  lay  at  anchor,  will 
not  be  uninteresting  to  the  reader. 

Auckland's  Group,*  as  it  is  called  on  the  charts,  is  a  cluster  of 
islands,  only  one  of  which  is  large  enough  to  deserve  the  name,  and 
that  is  twenty-five  miles  in  length,  from  north  to  south,  and  fifteen  in 
width,  from  east  to  west.  It  is  situated  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  south  of  New-Zealand,  and  as  many  leagues  south-east  of  Van 
Dieman's  Land,  being  in  the  South  Pacific  Ocean,  in  lat.  51°  0' south, 
long.  166^20'  east.  It  was  discovered,  with  its  surrounding  islets,  by 
Captain  A.  Bristow,  in  1806.  It  is  moderately  elevated,  the  highest 
points  being  about  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  is 
indented  with  a  number  of  fine  harbours,  where  ships  can  lie  in  safety, 
sheltered  from  all  Minds.  A  few  islets  lie  on  its  eastern  side;  two  or 
three  others  are  on  its  western  side,  one  of  which  is  called  Disappoint- 
ment Island ;  Adams's  Island  lies  off  its  south  end,  sheltering  the  fine 
harbour  in  which  we  lay  at  anchor,  tlie  eastern  point  of  which  is  called 
Cape  Bennett.  On  the  north-east  is  Enderby's  Island,  and  on  the 
north  Bristow's  Rock. 

Carnley's  Harbour  makes  in  about  four  miles  to  the  eastward  of  the 
south  cape  ;  and  the  entrance  is  formed  by  two  blufi'  points,  from  which, 
to  the  head  of  the  lagoon,  the  distance  is  fifteen  miles.  The  passage  is 
about  two  miles  wide,  and  entirely  clear  of  dangers,  within  twenty- 
five  fathoms  of  each  shore.  It  runs  in  first  north-north-west,  then 
north  and  north-north-east :  forming,  at  the  head  of  the  lagoon,  a  beau- 
tiful basin,  with  sufficient  room  for  half  a  dozen  sliips  to  moor.  The 
least  water  from  the  entrance  until  we  came  near  the  anchorage  was 
tw^enty  fathoms,  mid-channel.  We  anchored  in  fom:  fathoms,  clav 
ground. 

The  western  side  of  this  island  is  a  perpendicular,  bluff,  iron-bound 
coast,  with  deep  water  within  a  hundred  fathoms  of  the  shore  ;  while 
the  eastern  coast  is  principally  lined  with  a  pebbly  or  sandy  beach, 
behind  which  are  extensive  level  plains,  covered  with  beautiful  groves, 

*  This  group  was  so  named  in  honour  of  Ix)rd  Auckland,  who  died  eight  years  afterward.  This 
nobleman  began  his  career  in  1776,  being  one  of  the  cuinmissioners  apjwinted  to  j»ropose  terms  of 
peace  to  the  American  congress.  Ilis  colleagues  were  Lord  Howe,  Sir  Henry  Clinton,  ice.  Th9 
result  is  well  known. 


Jan.]  SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS.  361 

and  refresliing  verdure,  extending  back  about  five  miles,  and  then  rising 
into  elevated  hills.  The  view  from  the  vessel,  in  approaching  this  side 
of  the  islajnd,  is  therefore  very  pleasing  and  picturesque. 

All  the  hills,  excepting  a  few  of  the  highest,  are  thickly  covered 
with  forests  of  loftv  trees,  flourishing  with  such  extraordinary  vigour 
as  to  afford  a  magnificent  prospect  to  the  spectator.  The  large  trees 
are  principally  of  two  -sorts :  one  of  them  is  of  the  size  of  our  large 
firs,  and  grows  nearly  in  the  same  manner ;  its  foliage  is  an  excellent 
substitute  for  spruce  in  making  that  pleasant  and  wholesome  beverage, 
spruce-beer.  The  other  resembles  our  maple,  and  often  grows  to  a 
great  size ;  but  is  only  fit  for  ship-building  or  fuel,  being  too  heavy  for 
masts  or  spars  of  any  dimensions.  A  great  variety  of  trees  grow  in 
the  valleys  and  on  the  plains,  one  of  which  bears  a  kind  of  plum,  about 
the  size  of  a  prune ;  it  ripens  yellow,  but  has  an  unpleasant  taste, 
though  eaten  by  most  of  the  crew.  Another  tree  bears  flowers  very 
much  like  the  m}Ttle.  There  also  grows  here  a  species  of  polyadel- 
phus,  the  leaves  of  which  we  used  for  tea,  and  found  them  to  be  an 
excellent  substitute. 

The  quality  of  the  soil  on  this  island  is  sufficiently  indicated  by  the 
uniform  luxuriant  growth  of  all  its  productions.  Were  the  forests 
cleared  away,  very  few  spots  would  be  found  that  could  not  be  con- 
verted to  excellent  pasturage,  or  tillage  land.  The  valleys  and  plains, 
and  hill-sides,  and  every  spot  where  the  rays  of  the  sun  can  penetrate, 
are  now  clothed  with  a  strong,  heavy,  luxuriant  grass,  interspersed  with 
many  natural  specimens  of  the  boundless  treasures  of  nature's  vegeta- 
ble kingdom.  This  extraordinary  strength  of  vegetation  is  no  doubt 
greatly  assisted  by  the  agreeable  temperature  of  the  climate,  which  is 
very  fine. 

Antiscorbutical  plants  may  be  procured  here  in  great  abvmdance. 
Along  the  margins  of  the  coves,  and  by  the  sides  of  all  the  fresh  water 
streams,  the  wild  celery  flourishes  in  great  profusion.  Scurvj'-grass 
is  also  seen  in  almost  every  direction.  All  ship-masters  on  long 
voyages  know  the  wonh  of  these  plants  in  cases  of  the  scur\'y.  They 
are  very  palatable  and  refreshing,  whether  prepared  as  sdads  or  boiled 
as  greens.  Besides  the  vegetables  already  mentioned,  there  are  eu- 
phorbia, crane's-bill,  cud-weed,  rushes,  bind-weed,  nightshade,  nettles, 
thistles,  virgin's-bower,  vanelloe,  French  willow,  flax,  all-heal,  knot- 
grass, brambles,  eye-bright,  groundsel,  and  a  variety  of  others,  for 
which  I  know  no  appellation ;  and  many  of  those  already  mentioned  difler 
in  many  respects  from  plants  of  the  same  family  in  the  United  States. 

From  my  own  observations,  combined  with  the  reports  of  others,  I 
must  infer  that  this  section  of  the  animal  kingdom  is  rather  indiffer- 
ently stocked,  with  the  single  exception  of  its  ornithological  depart- 
ment. No  quadruped  has  ever  been  seen  on  this  island,  nor  even  a 
trace  of  any,  larger  than  the  rat.  Of  reptiles  there  are  only  three  sorts 
of  harmless,  inoffensive  lizards  ;  and  insects  are  quite  limited  in  num- 
ber and  variety.  -  The  principal  sorts  are  butterflies,  dragon-flies,  sand- 
flies, grasshoppers,  and  scorpion-flies,  which  make  the  woods  echo 
with  iheir  chirping.  There  are  also  several  sorts  of  spiders,  and  a  few 
black  ants. 


3G2  BIRDS  AND  FISH.  [1830. 

The  birds  are  numerous,  and  beautiful  beyond  description ;  and  I 
•was  at  a  loss  which  most  to  admire,  the  lovely  tints  of  their  plumag'S 
or  the  sweetness  of  their  liquid  melody,  with  which  the  forests  were 
rendered  vocal.  Two,  in  particular,  attracted  the  most  of  my  atten- 
tion ;  one  of  them  a  small  green  bird,  and  the  other  a  bird  about  the 
size  of  a  quail,  with  a  crest  very  much  like  that  of  the  maccaroni-pen- 
guin,  only  much  richer,  and  the  back  of  a  changeable  blue.  These 
two  birds  are  the  most  delightful  singers  that  I  ever  heard.  They 
may  both  very  justly  be  called  mocking-birds,  for  their  melody  is  so 
sweet,  and  their  notes  so  varied,  that  one  would  imagine  himself  sur- 
rounded by  a  hundred  difl'erent  kinds  of  birds,  all  singing  at  once. 
There  are  three  or  four  other  kinds  of  birds  that  sing  very  sweetly, 
and  several  kinds  that  I  never  heard  sing.  I  also  saw  a  species  of 
the  cuckoo  ;  and  the  gross-beak,  about  the  size  of  a  thrush,  is  common. 
Parrots  and  paroquets  are  very  numerous,  and  generally  of  the  most 
beautiful  plumage.  There  are  likewise  a  variety  of  large  wood- 
pigeons. 

But  the  most  curious  bird  which  I  saw  on  this  island  is  called  by 
some  the  golden-winged  pigeon.  It  is  remarkable  for  having  most  of  the 
wing-feathers  marked  with  golden  yellowy  changing  its  colours,  ac- 
cording to  the  ditferent  lights  in  which  it  is  viewed,  to  green  and 
bronze  ;  forming,  when  the  wings  are  closed,  two  bars  across  the  back. 
The  bill  and  legs  are  red ;  the  lower  part  of  the  neck  and  the  fore- 
part of  die  head  are  of  a  dove-colour,  and  a  dark-brownish  red  passes 
each  eye.  The  two  middle  feathers  of  the  tail  are  lighter  than  the 
other  parts  of  the  plumage,  which  inclines  to  a  bright  lead-colour,  with 
a  bar  of  black  near  the  ends. 

I  also  saw  two  kinds  of  falcons,  and  three  or  four  species  of  owls. 
Among  the  rocks  we  found  black  sea-pies,  with  red  bills,  and  crested 
shags  of  a  leaden  colour.  About  the  shores  are  a  few  sea-gulls,  black 
herons,  wild  ducks,  plovers,  sand-larks,  snipes,  rooks,  nellies,  and  sev- 
eral kinds  of  penguins. 

Fish  are  plenty,  and  of  many  varieties.  The  principal  kinds  which 
fell  under  our  observation  while  we  lay  at  this  island  were,  rock-cod, 
jnackerel,  black-fish,  skate,  blue  dolphins,  conger-eels,  elephant-iish, 
mullets,  soles,  flounders,  blue  porgies,  gurnards,  nurses,  hake,  paracus- 
ias, parrot-fish,  leather-jackets,  and  a  kind  of  small  salmon.  Of  all 
these,  the  salmon,  rock-cod,  and  black-fish  are  the  best,  being  of  su- 
perior quality.  These  are  the  only  scale-fish  that  came  under  my 
notice ;  though  I  have  no  doubt  but  there  are  many  more  species  of 
which  we  know  nothing. 

Of  the  different  kinds  of  shellfish  the  most  abundant  and  most  de- 
licious are  muscles,  some  of  which  are  from  twelve  to  fifteen  inches 
in  length,  and  equal,  in  every  respect,  to  a  Blue  Point  oyster.  There 
are  many  others  of  a  smaller  size,  which  are  equally  fat  and  palatable. 
Clams  are  plenty  on  the  beaches  at  low  tide,  and  excellent-flavoured 
oysters  are  found  in  many  places,  but  their  size  is  very  diminutive^ 
Besides  these  there  are  periwinkles,  limpets,  wilks,  sea-eggs,  star-fish^ 
sea-ears,  crabs,  crawfish,  and  many  other  kinds  unknown  in  thia 
coimiry. 


Jan.]  FATE  OF  CAPTAIN  JOHNSON.  363P 

On  the  whole,  I  think  that  Auckland's  Island  is  one  of  the  finest 
places  for  a  small  settlement  that  can  be  found  on  any  island  in  the 
southern  hemisphere  above  the  latitude  of  thirty-five.  Every  valu- 
able animal  would  thrive  here,  such  as  bullocks,  horses,  sheep,  goats, 
"jhogs,  foxes,  rabbits,  geese,  ducks,  and  poultry  of  all  kinds  ;  all  of  wliich 
would  increase  and  multiply  as  fast  as  in  any  odier  part  of  the  world. 
Grain,  fruhs,  and  vegetables  of  all  kinds  (excepting  the  tropical  fruits) 
could  be  made  to  flourish  here  with  very  little  labour.  No  island  on 
the  globe,  of  equal  dimensions,  can  boast  so  many  excellent  harbours, 
safe,  and  easy  of  access  ;  and  at  the  head  of  each  is  a  beautiful  valley,, 
extending  inland,  admirably  calculated  for  the  site  of  a  village.  The 
whole  island  is  well  watered,  and  would  form  a  delightful  retreat  to  a? 
few  amiable  famihes,  who  wish  for  "  a  dear  little  isle  of  their  own." 

The  climate  is  mild,  temperate,  and  salubrious.  I  have  been  told  by 
men  of  the  first  respectability  and  talents,  who  had  visited  this  island 
in  the  month  of  July,  the  dead  of  winter  in  this  latitude,  corresponding 
to  our  January,  that  the  weather  was  mild  as  respects  cold,  as  the  mer- 
cury was  never  lower  than  38°  in  the  valleys,  and  the  trees  at  the 
same  time  retained  their  verdure  as  if  it  was  midsummer.  I  have  no 
doubt  but  the  foliage  of  many  of  the  trees  remains  until  they  are  pushed 
oif  in  the  following  spring  by  a  new  crop  of  buds  and  leaves.  At  the 
time  we  were  here  the  mercury  in  the  thermometer  seldom  rose  higher 
than  78°,  although  it  answered  to  our  July.  The  weather  is  generally 
good  at  all  seasons  of  the  year ;  although  there  are  occasional  high 
•winds,  attended  with  heavy  rains.  These  storms,  however,  seldom  last 
more  than  twenty -four  hours. 

In  the  year  1823,  Captain  Robert  Johnson,  in  the  schooner  Henry, 
of  New- York,  took  from  this  island,  and  the  surrounding  islets,  about 
thirteen  thousand  of  as  good  fur-seal  skins  as  ever  were  brought  to  the 
New- York  market.  He  was  then  in  the  employment  of  Messrs. 
Byers,  Rogers,  M'Intyre,  and  Nixon ;  who  fitted  him  out  on  his  second 
voyage,  in  the  Henry,  in  the  most  complete  and  liberal  manner,  in  the 
year  1824.  From  this  voyage  he  never  returned.  He  was  last  seen 
at  the  south  cape  of  New-Zealand,  in  the  following  year,  having  lost 
three  men,  who  were  drowned  at  Chatham  Islands.  Captain  Johnson 
and  the  remainder  of  his  crew  were  then  all  in  good  health,  and  had 
seventeen  hundred  prime  fur-seal  skins  on  board  the  Henry.  My  in- 
formants further  stated,  that  the  Henry  left  New-Zealand  on  a  cruise 
to  the  south  and  east,  in  search  of  new  lands,  between  the  sixtieth  and 
sixty-fifth  degrees  of  south  latitude  ;  and  as  he  has  never  been  heard 
of  since  leaving  New-Zealand,  it  is  very  probable  that  he  made  dis- 
covery of  some  new  island  near  the  parallel  of  60,  on  which  the  Henry 
was  shipwrecked.  I  have  no  doubt,  that  if  a  vessel  should  cruise  in 
that  direction,  she  would  fall  in  with  islands  abounding  witli  fur-seal ; 
and  possibly  find  Captain  Johnson,  or  part  of  his  crew,  yet  ahve.  For 
the  sake  of  humanity,  I  hope  that  the  experiment  will  yet  be  tried. 

Although  the  Auckland  Isles  once  abounded  with  numerous  herds  of 
fur  and  hair-seal,  the  American  and  English  seamen  engaged  in  this 
business  have  made  such  clean  work  of  it  as  scarcely  to  leave  a  breed  ; 
at  all  events,  there  was  not  one  fur-seal  to  be  found  on  the  4lh  of  Jan- 


> 


364  STEWART'S  ISLAND    NEW-ZEALAND.  [1830. 

uar}',  1830.  We  therefore  got  under  way  on  the  morning  of  Tuesday, 
tlie  5ili,  at  6  o'clock,  and  steered  for  another  cluster  of  islands,  or 
rather  rocks,  called  "  The  Snarcs^^'  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  north 
of  Auckland's  group,  and  about  sixty  south  of  JVew-Zealaiid. 

This  cluster  of  craggy  rocks  is  in  lat.  48^  4  south,  long.  1G6°  18' 
east ;  extending  five  miles  in  the  direction  of  east-north-east  and  west- 
south-\vest.  They  were  first  discovered  by  Vancouver,  who  gave  them 
a  name  expressive  of  their  character,  as  being  very  likely  to  draw  the 
unwary  mariner  into  alarming  difficulties.  We  searched  them  in  vain 
for  fur-seal,  with  which  they  formerly  abounded.  The  population  was 
extinct,  cut  off,  root  and  branch,  by  the  sealers  of  Van  Dieman's  Land, 
Sidney,  <S^c.  We  therefore  squared  away  for  the  south  cape  of  New- 
Zealand,  M'ith  a  fine  breeze  from  sOuth-west,  and  fair  weather. 

Jan.  7th. — On  the  morning  of  Thursday,  the  7th,  at  5  A.  M.,  we 
were  close  in  with  the  south  cape  of  New-Zealand  ;  or,  more  properly, 
Stewart's  Island,  which  is  separated  from  the  main  island  by  a  passage 
about  twenty  miles  wide,  called  Foyeaux's  Strait.  This  passage  is 
clear  of  dangers  on  the  south  shore,  but  the  north  shore  presents 
numerous  islands  and  reefs,  v>ith  deep  and  spacious  harbours  within 
them,  running  some  distance  into  the  mainland. 

Stewart's  Island,  which  forms  the  southern  extremity  of  NeAv-Zea- 
land,  is  of  considerable  magnitude,  and  its  most  southerly  point,  called 
Cape  South,  is  in  latitude  47^  18' south,  long.  167^  14'  east.  Its 
southern  and  western  parts  have  an  elevation  of  more  than  two  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea :  but  on  its  northern  and  eastern 
sides,  the  land  descends  into  deep  valleys  and  fertile  plains.  The 
whole  surface  of  the  island,  except  the  summits  of  the  most  lofty  hills, 
is  covered  with  a  rich  mellow  soil,  clothed  with  heavy  forests  of  ex- 
cellent ship-timber. 

On  the  south-east  side  of  the  island  is  a  beautiful  and  spacious 
harbour,  the  entrance  to  which  is  narrow,  and  easy  of  access.  After 
passing  within  this  entrance,  it  branches  off,  north  and  south,  in  two 
arms,  in  each  of  which  is  safe  anchorage.  This  is  called  South  Port ; 
and  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  a  gang  of  men  from  Sidney  were  here,  em- 
ployed in  building  a  vessel. 

The  west  part  of  this  island  is  dangerous  for  a  ship  to  approach  in 
the  night,  as  there  are  many  reefs  running  out  to  the  westward,  from 
three  to  four  miles,  on  \vhich  the  sea  breaks  with  great  violence.  The 
coast  to  the  south  and  east  is  bold  close  to  the  shore,  and  entirely  free 
from  hidden  dangers,  half  a  mile  from  the  land ;  but  on  the  north-east 
point  of  tliis  island  there  is  a  reef  running  off  to  the  eastward  about 
three  miles,  upon  which  the  sea  seldom  breaks  with  a  westerly  wind, 
although  there  is  not  more  than  ten  feet  of  water  on  its  extreme  pomt. 
From  Cape  South  "  The  Snares"  bear  about  south  38^  west,  distant 
nineteen  leaoues. 

Jan.  Sth. — On  Friday,  the  8th  of  January,  we  left  Stewart's  Isle, 
Avith  a  fine  breeze  from  south-south-west,  and  fair  weather,  and  at  10, 
A.  M.,  were  close  in  with  what  is  called  Molyneux's  Harbour,  on  the 
south-east  side  of  New-Zealand  proper;  but  instead  of  a  "deep  and 
spacious  harbour,"  as  reported  by  its  discoverer,  we  found  nothing  but 


Jan.]  NEW-ZEALAND.  365 

a  small  bend  in  the  land,  between  two  low  points  about  three  miles 
across,  and  one  mile  deep. 

We  soon  had  a  friendly  visit  from  about  fifty  natives,  who  came 
on  board  without  the  least  hesitation,  and  opened  an  intercourse  with  us 
without  reserve.  We  made  them  some  trifling  presents,  which  appeared 
to  give  them  much  pleasure.  In  return,  they  gave  me  a  pressing  invi- 
tation to  visit  their  little  village,  at  the  foot  of  a  valley  near  the  head 
of  the  bay.  But  before  I  invite  the  reader  to  accompany  me  on  shore, 
it  will  be  proper  to  say  something  about  this  interesting  country  of  New- 
Zealand  :  the  next  chapter  will  therefore  commence  with  a  few  facts 
collected  from  the  most  authentic  sources,  and  confirmed  by  my  own 
personal  observation. 


CHAPTER  III. 

New-Zealand — Intercourse  with  the  Natives — Their  Habitations,  Apparel,  Work- 
ing tools,  and  Weapons — Eating  Human  Flesh — Face  of  the  Country — Banks's 
Peninsula — Cook's  Cape,  Harbour,  and  Strait — Visit  from  the  Natives — Women 
an  Article  of  Traffic — East  Cape — Mercury  Bay — Great  Utility  of  Missionaries — 
Bay  of  Islands — Royal  Visiters — Visit  to  the  Mission — Orderly  Arrangement — 
Sail  to  the  North— The  New-Hebrides— Hope  Island— Steer  to  the  West- 
New  Discoveries  anticipated. 

New-Zealani)  consists  of  two  large  islands,  lying  north-east  and 
south-west  of  each  other,  in  the  South  Pacific  Ocean,  separated  by  a  pas- 
sage called  Cook's  Strait.  The  northernmost  of  these  islands  is  called 
by  the  natives  Eahcino-mawe,  and  the  southernmost  Tm:i  Poencrmmoo. 
The  northern  island  is  four  hundred  and  thirty-six  miles  in  length,  and 
its  medium  breadth  is  probably  about  sixty  miles  ;  it  comprises,  therefore, 
more  than  twenty-six  thousand  square  miles.  The  southerti  island  is 
three  hundred  and  sixty  miles  in  length,  and  averages  about  one  hundred 
in  breadth  ;  comprising  thirty-six  thousand  square  miles. 

The  whole  country  of  New-Zealand  lies  betv»-een  the  thirty- fourth 
and  forty-eighth  degrees  of  south  latitude  ;  and  between  the  longitudinal 
degrees  of  one  hundred  and  sixty-six  and  one  hundred  and  seventy-nine, 
cast  from  Greenwich.  Its  mean  location,  therefore,  is  latitude  41°  0', 
long.  173'^  0'  east.  This  country,  or  rather  its  western  coast,  was  first 
discovered  in  1642  by  Tasman.  The  discovery  was  afterward  pursued 
by  M.  de  Surville,  a  French  navigator ;  continued  by  the  celebrated 
Cook,  and  completed  by  the  enterprising  Vancouver,  who  was  the  pupil 
of  that  great  navigator.  Not  being  able  to  reach  one  of  the  arms  of 
Dusky  Bay,  near  the  western  pointof  the  northern  island.  Cook  gave  it 
ihc  name  of  "  Nohody-knows-whaty  His  pupil  succeeded,  and  changed 
the  name  to  "  Somchody-hnows-ii'hat.''''  This  point,  which  is  called 
(Jape  West,  is  about  three  hundred  and  fifty  leagues  south-east  of  Port 
Jackson,  Botany  Bay. 

This  country  is  rapidly  rising  into  importance  in  proportion  as  it 


366  NEW-ZEALAND.  [1830. 

becomes  more  known.  It  is  well  watered,  fertile,  and  highly  pro- 
ductive of  ever)'  species  of  vegetation  congenial  to  its  varietyof  climate, 
in  an  extent  of  fourteen  degrees  of  latitude.  But  it  is  mostly  interesting 
on  accoimt  of  its  extensive  population  of  aborigines  ;  a  peculiar  people, 
who  are  separated  into  tribes  or  nations,  each  of  which  is  governed 
by  its  own  chief  or  king.  The  northern  island  is  divided  into  eight 
principal  distri<*ts,  which  are  again  subdivided  into  smaller  sections, 
over  which  inferior  chiefs  hold  dominion.  It  appears,  however, 
that  the  arcckcf,  or  king  of  a  district,  is  not  absolute  in  power,  as  the 
iiiferior  chiefs  make  frequent  wars  on  each  other,  without  consulting  hira. 

The  native  inhabitants  of  New-Zealand  are  evidently  of  the  same 
original  stock  with  the  Otaheilans,  the  people  of  the  Friendly  Islands, 
and  the  other  Polynesians.  Their  language  is  radically  the  same  as 
that  of  the  Otaheilans.  They  have  generally  dark  tawny  complexions, 
though  I  have  seen  a  few  of  them  comparatively  fair,  and  others  again 
quite  black.  Their  countenances  are,  with  few  exceptions,  pleasing 
and  intelligent,  without  those  indications  of  ferocity  which  some  of 
their  actions  -would  lead  us  to  anticipate.  The  men  are  tall,  mus- 
cular, and  well  made. 

The  village  at  the  head  of  Molyneux's  Harbour,  which  is  called  by 
the  natives  Tavaimoo,  contains  twenty-eight  huts,  of  miserable  accom- 
modations. The  best  among  them  are  shaped  like  our  barns,  being 
about  ten  feet  high,  thirty  feet  in  length,  and  twelve  or  fifteen  in  breadth. 
The  inside  is  strongly  constructed,  and  well  fastened  together  by  osiers 
or  supple  vines.  They  are  painted,  generally,  with  red  sides  and 
black  roofs,  using  the  same  kind  of  material  as  that  with  which  they 
daub  their  faces.  At  one  end  is  a  small  hole,  just  large  enough  to 
admit  one  person,  stooping  low ;  this  serves  as  a  door ;  while  another 
hole  considerably  smaller,  answers  the  double  purpose  of  chimney  and 
^vindow. 

Few  of  their  habitations,  however,  are  constructed  in  this  luxurious 
manner.  The  most  of  them  are  less  than  half  this  size,  and  are  seldom 
more  than  four  or  five  feet  in  height.  Tliey  are  framed  of  young  trees, 
and  thatched  m  ith  long  coarse  grass.  Their  household  furniture  con- 
sists of  a  few  small  baskets  or  bags,  in  which  they  deposite  their 
fishing-gear,  and  other  trifles.  They  squat  down  in  the  middle  of  these 
huts,  around  the  fire,  and  often  sleep  all  night  in  this  manner,  with- 
out any  other  covering  than  what  they  have  worn  during  the  day. 

Both  sexes  are  clothed  alike,  having  a  garment  made  of  the  silky 
hemp,  which  is  a  natural  production  of  the  country.  These  robes  are 
five  feet  long,  and  four  broad,  and  this  is  their  principal  manufacture, 
'^^'hich  is  performed  by  knotting  and  running  the  warp  on  the  ground, 
and  working  in  the  filling  by  hand.  Their  w  ar  mats  are  made  in  the 
same  manner,  and  are  sometimes  highly  ornamented.  I  brought  home 
a  number  of  them,  two  of  which  I  presented  to  the  proprietor  of  Peale's 
Museum,  in  Broadway,  New- York,  together  with  a  New-Zealand  axe 
made  of  jasper,  and  a  number  of  their  bows,  arrows,  spears,  war-clubs, 
paddles,  &c.  &c.  I  made  a  similar  donation  to  Scudder's  American 
Museum,  vhere  they  have  been  much  admired  ;  and  also  to  the  Museum 
in  the  city  of  Albany. 


Jan.]  THE  NATIVES.  367 

As  it  is  in  all  villages  as  well  as  cities,  society  is  here  divided  into 
two  distinct  classes,  corresponding  to  patricians  and  plebeians ;  the 
New-Zealanders  call  the  former  class  rungateedas^  and  the  latter  they 
call  kookies.  Besides  these  mats  or  robes,  which  are  fastened  round 
the  body  with  a  highly  ornamented  girdle,  tlie  rungateedas  wear  orna- 
ments of  shells,  feathers,  beads,  <fec.  But  the  humble  kookies  generally 
wear  nothing  more  than  a  quantity  of  the  sedge-plant,  badly  manu- 
factured, thrown  over  the  shoulders,  and  fastened  with  a  string,  falling 
down  on  all  sides  to  the  knees.  WJien  sitting  down  in  this  dress,  they 
could  hardly  be  distinguished  from  the  gray  rocks  or  stones,  if  their 
black  heads  did  not  project  above  the  garment  which  covers  the  body. 

The  New-Zealanders  have  some  excellent  domestic  habits,  and 
evince  extraordinary  ingenuity  in  a  few  arts.  Having  no  metallic 
vessels  for  boiling  their  food,  they  contrive  to  cook  their  fern-root,  and 
their  potatoes,  by  means  of  two  hollow  stones,  in  which  they  first  put 
the  roots,  surrounded  by  a  few  moist  leaves  of  some  well-flavoured 
plant,  and  then  applying  the  hollow  sides  of  the  stones  to  one  another, 
heat  them  thoroughly  for  a  due  length  of  time  ;  at  the  end  of  which 
the  contents  are  well  stewed  and  palatable  food.  '  They  make  wooden 
vessels,  and  carve  them  with  much  taste ;  cultivate  their  fields  with 
great  neatness,  with  nothing  but  a  wooden  spade  ;  construct  large  and 
well-finished  canoes ;  and  prepare  fishing  tackle  and  other  implements 
in  a  wonderful  manner,  considering  their  limited  means  and  want  of 
tools.  Their  principal  mechanical  tool  is  formed  in  the  shape  of  an 
adze,  and  is  made  of  the  serpent-stone,  or  jasper.  Their  chisels  and 
gouges  are  generally  made  of  the  same  material,  but  sometimes  of  a 
black  solid  stone  similar  to  the  jasper.  Their  masterpiece  of  ingenuity 
is  carving,  which  they  display  on  the  most  trivial  objects,  as  well  as 
in  the  elegant  figure-heads  of  their  canoes,  &:c.  Their  cordage  for 
fishing-lines,  nets,  <fec.,  is  not  inferior  to  the  finest  we  have  in  this 
country,  and  their  nets  are  admirably  made.  A  bit  of  flint,  or  a  shell, 
is  their  only  substitute  for  a  knife,  and  a  shark's  tooth,  fixed  in  a  piece 
of  wood,  serves  for  an  auger  or  gimlet.  They  also  fix  on  a  piece  of 
wood,  nicely  carved,  a  row  of  large  shark's  teeth,  setting  them  in  a 
line,  and  their  sharp  edges  all  one  way.  This  answers  for  a  saw, 
U'hich  ihey  use  in  their  carpenter-work,  and  also  for  the  purpose  of 
cutting  up  the  bodies  of  their  enemies  who  are  slain  in  battle. 

Their  wars  are  conducted  with  the  utmost  ferocity.  They  have 
short  spears,  which  they  throw  like  javcUns,  from  a  distance  ;  long 
ones,  which  they  use  as  lances  ;  and  a  broad,  thick,  sharp-edged 
weapon  of  stone,  called  patoo-patoo,  with  which  they  strike  each  other 
in  close  combat,  and  which  sometimes  cleaves  the  scull  at  a  single 
blow.  I  brought  home  specimens  of  each  of  these  weapons,  which 
are  now  in  the  museums  before  mentioned.  They  devour  the  bodies 
of  their  enemies  ;  but  not  from  a  physical  appetite  or  relish  for  human 
flesh,  as  many  suppose.  Such  an  appetite  or  relish  was  never  yet  ex- 
perienced by  any  cannibal  that  ever  existed.  The  horrid  rite  is  per- 
formed merely  to  appease  a  moral  appetite,  far  more  voracious  than 
that  of  hunger.  It  is  done  to  express  the  extent  of  their  hate,  their 
vengeance,  or  rather  an  insatiable  malice  that  would  pursue  its  victim 


368  '  NE\V-ZEAL.\MD.  [1830. 

beyond  the  coadBCs  of  the  grave ;  for  it  is  an  article  of  their  religious 
creed  that  the  soul  of  a  man  tlius  devoured  is  doomed  to  eternal  fire. 

On  this  subject,  I  speak  from  personal  observation  and  experience ; 
for  1  have  had  much  to  do  with  cannibals,  as  will  appear  hi  the  sequel. 
1  iiave  been  present  when  the  New-Zealanders  have  celebrated  their 
victories  on  the  held  of  battle,  and  witnessed  their  disgusting  banquet, 
at  which  their  own  stomachs  revolted  with  every  symptom  of  loath- 
ing, often  attended  with  reaching,  and  sometimes  vomiting.  I  have 
witnessed  this  lioriible  scene  several  times,  with  the  same  irresistible 
inference  ;  otherwise  I  should  not  thus  hazard  so  bold  a  contradiction  of 
popular  opinion. 

But  the  prescribed  limits  of  this  volume  will  not  permit  me  to  ex- 
tend these  remarks  farther ;  I  must  therefore  refer  the  reader  to  the 
iiPirratives  of  other  voyages  for  farther  particulars  respecting  this 
curious  and  interesting  people.  See  Cook's  Voyages,  Dalrymple's 
Historical  Collection,  the  Narrative  of  Nicholas,  Dr.  Forster,  Marion, 
Porkinas,  Collins,  Savage,  and  others. 

The  general  face  of  the  country,  says  Make  Brun,  so  far  as  it  has 
hitherto  been  explored,  is  undulating ;  the  hills  rising  with  a  varied 
ascent  from  inconsiderable  eminences  to  lofty  mountains.  A  continued 
chain  of  hills  runs  from  the  north  cape,  southward,  through  the  whole 
country,  gradually  swelling  into  mountains,  the  highest  of  which,  ac- 
cording to  Dr.  Forster,  is  Mount  Egmont,  lying  in  latitude  39°  16'  S.,  and 
is  said  to  be  the  same  in  elevation  as  well  as  in  general  appearance 
as  the  Peak  of  Teneriffe.  It  is  covered  with  perpetual  snow  a  great 
way  down,  and  from  calculations  and  comparisons  respecting  the  snow- 
line, he  concluded  its  height  to  be  fourteen  thousand  seven  hundred 
and  sixty  feet.  Others  arc  led  by  various  considerations  to  assign  to 
it  an  elevation  of  ten  thousand  feet.  Snares  Islands,  Lord  Auckland's 
Group,  and  Macquarrie  Island,  to  the  south  of  New-Zealand,  show 
the  continuation  of  the  same  chain  of  mountains,  under  water,  by 
which  this  country  is  pervaded. 

Jamtary  \Oth. — On  leaving  Molyneux's  Harbour,  we  steered  to 
the  north,  with  a  line  breeze  from  the  west,  fair  weather,  and  very 
smooth  water.  At  4,  P.  M.,  on  Sunday,  the  10th  of  January,  we  were 
close  in  with  Banks's  Peninsula,  where  we  found  a  tolerable  shelter  on 
the  north  side,  in  the  south-west  part  of  Gore's  Bay.  The  eastern 
extremity  of  Banks's  Peninsula  is  in  lat.  43°  52'  south,  long.  173°  14' 
east. 

Vessels  bound  to  the  north,  along  this  coast,  after  doubling  the 
peninsula,  wishing  to  have  communication  with  the  natives,  will  find 
good  anchorage  by  steering  to  the  north-westward,  on  ilie  north  side 
of  the  peninsula,  untd  they  come  up  with  Cook's  Cape,  in  lat.  43°  41' 
soutli,  long.  172°  51'  east.  They  may  then  steer  a  little  southerly, 
about  eighteen  miles,  to  Cook's  Harbour,  where  they  will  be  sheltered 
from  all  winds,  excepting  from  east-north-east  to  east-south-east,  from 
which  quarter  the  winds  seldom  blow  home  to  the  bottom  of  the  bay 
with  any  violence.  If  bound  into  this  harbour,  they  may  keep  the 
north  shore  of  the  peninsula  close  on  board,  nntil  they  reach  the 
anchorage ;  excepting  in  passing  Cook's  Cape,  off  which  there  is  a 


Jan.]  EASTERN  COAST.  369 

small  reef,  about  two  miles  and  a  half  from  the  main  sliore.  Wlien 
at  the  head  of  the  bay,  the  best  anchorage  will  be  found  on  the  north 
side,  between  a  small  island  and  the  mainland,  m  fifteen  fathoms  of 
water,  muddy  bottom. 

Thei"e  are  biu  few  nati,ves  residing  at  this  bay,  and  these  few  live 
in  a  very  miserable  manner,  subsisting  almost  entirely  on  shellfish,  as 
the  f6rn-root  is  here  very  scarce,  owing  probably  to  the  mountains  of 
rock  w'hich  line  the  coast  near  the  peninsula. 

January  13^//. — We  continued  examining  the  coast  to  the  north 
and  eastward,  frequently  seeing  natives  on  sJiore,  making  signals  for 
us  to  land.  On  Wednesday,  the  13th,  we  were  close  in  with  the 
southern  point  of  Cook's  Strait,  at  the  eastern  entrance,  called  Cape 
Campbell.  It  was  in  a  harbour  withm  this  strait  that  Vancouver  lost  a 
boat's  crew,  upon  whose  bodies,  it  is  generally  supposed,  that  the  natives 
feasted  ;  but  from  the  account  I  received  from  one  of  the  chiefs  on  the 
north  side  of  the  strait,  I  am  led  to  believe  that  the  flesh  was  thrown 
away,  and  the  bones  worn  as  ornaments  by  the  principal  chiefs.  Some 
of  these  bones  converted  to  this  use  were  still  to  be  found  among  the 
tribes  in  this  vicinity.  There  are  many  fine  harbours  on  the  south  side 
of  the  strait,  with  suflicient  w'ater  to  admit  ships  of  any  size. 

At  4,  P.  M;,  we  were  close  in  with  Cape  Palliser,  which  is  the 
north-east  point  of  Cook's  Strait,  and  is  in  lat.  41^  38'  south,  long.  175^ 
29'  east.  Olf  Flat  Point,  we  received  a  visit  from  about  fifty  natives, 
who  insisted  upon  some  of  us  going  on  shore.  Their  articles  of 
traffic  w^ere  fish  and  fishing  gear,  curiosities,  and  women.  The  two 
first  were  immediately  pm'chased,  but  the  latter  did  not  come  to  a 
good  market. 

January  15M.— We  continued  on  our  passage  to  the  north-east, 
carefully  examining  the  south-eastern  shores  of  this  island,  until  Fri- 
day, the  15th,  when,  at  2,  P.  M.,  we  were  in  the  entrance  of  Hawk's 
Bay,  but  did  not  examine  the  head  of  it,  which  is  deep,  and  from  ap- 
pearance contains  many  fine  harbours.  In  the  south-west  arm  of  this 
bay  are  a  few  small  islands,  about  one  mile  ofi-shore  from  Cape  Kid- 
napper, or  the  south  point  of  the  bay,  with  some  sunken  rocks  around 
them.  Off"  the  north  point  of  the  bay,  or  Cape  Toahowray,  there  are 
many  islets  and  reefs,  running  along  shore  to  Table  Cape ;  eight 
leagues  to  the  north  of  which  is  Taoneroa  Bay  or  Harbour,  sheUered 
from  all  winds,  excepting  from  east  to  east-south-east.  At  this  place 
there  appeared  a  number  of  natives  on  the  beach,  making  signals  for 
us  to  land ;  but  knowing  that  they  had  no  articles  of  trade  of  any 
value,  and  finding  no  seals  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  we  kept  on  our 
course  to  the  north  and  east,  improving  a  fine  breeze  from  the  west, 
and  fair  weather. 

January  17th. — After  passing  many  small  islets  that  lie  close  to  the 
shore,  several  of  which  harboured  a  few  fur-seal,  but  very  wild,  from 
being  continually  harassed  by  the  natives,  we  arrived  at  East  Cape, 
on  Sunday,  the  17th.  This  is  the  most  eastern  point  of  New-Zealand, 
being  in  lat.  37°  47'  south,  long.  178°  43'  east.  There  are  a  few 
smiken  rocks  lying  about  one  mile  olT-shore  from  the  extremity  of  the 
cape.     After  doubhng  this  cape,  bound  to  the  north,  the  coast  suddenly 

A  a 


370  NEW-ZEALAND.  [1830. 

tends  rounJ  to  the  west  and  south-west,  forming  what  is  called  the  Bay 
of  Plenty,  at  the  head  of  which  there  are  several  small  islands,  with 
good  anchorage  within  them,  where  many  natives  may  be  found,  and 
refreshments  procured,  such  as  hogs  and  potatoes,  at  a  very  low  rate, 
fcy  paying  in  barter. 

'  To  the  north  of  this  bay  is  Mercury  Bay,  fronted  by  numerous 
small  islets,  behind  which  there  are  many  spacious  harbours,  and  an 
abundance  of  natives.  But  it  is  necessary  to  be  careful  at  this  bay,  as 
well  as  at  the  Bay  of  Plenty,  that  many  of  them  do  not  come  on 
board,  as  they  often  prove  treacherous  to  strangers ;  aiid  if  they  do 
not  attempt  to  take  your  vessel,  they  will  steal  every  thing  which  they 
can  lay  their  hands  on.  To  the  north  of  this  is  the  river  Thames, 
having  many  fine  harbours  near  its  head,  where  the  natives  are  quite 
numerous,  and  often  hostile.  This  is  a  fine  place,  however,  for  ships 
to  obtain  refreshments,  such  as  hogs,  goats,  and  vegetables,  in  abun- 
tlance.  The  island  here  is  quite  narrow,  and  no  part  of  it  north  of 
this  is  more  than  thirty  miles  in  breadth. 

Not  long  previous  to  our  arrival,  the  natives  had  risen  on  the  mis- 
sion, which  had  been  established  here  but  a  short  time,  and  it  was 
with  great  difliculty  that  these  disinterested  labourers  in  the  cause  of 
humanity  escaped  with  their  lives.  They  succeeded,  however,  in 
reaching  the  Bay  of  Islands,  where  they  found  protection.  Such  are 
the  perils  and  hardships  which  these  good  people  voluntarily  encounter 
and  endure,  in  their  godlike  attempts  to  civilize  and  humanize  the 
savage  islanders  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  ;  and  yet  their  services  have  been 
decried,  and  even  their  motives  questioned,  by  those  who  cannot  con- 
ceive of  such  a  thing  as  disinterested  benevolence.  But  New-Zealand 
itself  is  a  splendid  proof  of  the  utility  of  missionary  labours.  There 
are  many  parts  of  this  island  which  it  was  once  dangerous  for  a  ship 
to  approach,  unless  she  was  well  armed,  with  officers  and  crew  con- 
tinually on  their  guard.  But,  thanks  to  the  missionaries,  and  the 
blessing  of  Heaven  which  has  attended  their  pious  and  humane  exer- 
tions,  ships  may  now  anchor  in  safety  in  many  of  those  very  harbours 
where  the  greatest  danger  was  once  to  be  apprehended,  and  obtain  sup- 
plies at  the  most  reasonable  rate,  with  many  testimonies  of  kindness 
and  hospitality. 

January  20th. — From  this  place  we  steered  for  the  Bay  of  Islands, 
where  the  English  settlement  is  fixed,  with  a  south-east  wind ;  and  on 
Wednesday,  the  20th,  at  6,  P.  M.,  we  passed  Cape  Brett,  ihe  eastern 
point  of  the  bay,  which  lies  in  lat.  35°  8',  south  long.  174°  17'  east. 
In  going  into  this  bay  with  a  southerly  wind,  the  north  shore  should- 
be  kept  best  on  board,  until  you  come  up  with  Point  Kippy-kippy. 
You  will  then  haul  close  round  this  point,  and  steer  into  the  south-east 
for  a  short  distance ;  when  you  may  anchor  abreast  of  the  village,  in 
from  six  to  four  fathoms  of  water,  muddy  bottom,  about  one-third  of  a 
mile  from  the  shore  that  fronts  the  town.  This  bay  opens  to  the 
north-east,  and,  as  it  name  imports,  has  several  islands  near  it.  We 
came  to  anchor  at  this  place  at  J,  A.  M.,  in  four  fathoms  of  water, 
mud  and  clay  bottom. 

January  2lst. — On  the  opening  of  the   moniing,  Thuj-sday,   the 


Jan.]         "    BAY  OF  ISLANDS— VISIT  FROM  THE  KING.  ^j, 

21st,  we  found  four  British  whaling-ships,  which  had  touched 
here  for  refreshments ;  viz.  the  George,  Captain  M'Auly ;  the  Royal 
Sovereign,  Capt.  King ;  the  Thetis,  Capt.  Gray ;  and  the  Eagle,  Capt... 
Powell.  Refreshments  may  be  obtained  here  in  any  quantities,  oa 
very  moderate  terms.  Hogs  are  sold  at  the  rate  of  half  a  dollar  a 
hundred  weight,  and  potatoes  at  six  cents  a  bushel ;  and  they  are  the 
best  to  keep  of  any  I  ever  saw. 

This  place  was  once  inhabited  by  wild  and  ferocious  cannibals  ;. 
but  through  the  philanthropic  labours  of  missionaries,  the  natives  here 
and  in  the  vicinity  have  become  civilized,  friendly,  hospitable,  and 
anxious  to  do  good  to  others.  Indolence  and  filthiness  have  given 
place  to  industry  and  personal  cleanliness  ;  ferocity,  to  gentleness  ^ 
ignorance,  to  intelligence ;  idolatry,  to  the  pure  and  undefiled  religion, 
of  the  Gospel.  Go  on,  ye  messengers  of  Divine  ^lercy ;  pursue  the 
good  work,  until  all  the  isles  of  the  ocean  shall  rejoice ;  "  until  the 
knowledge  of  Jehovah  covers  the  earth  as  the  waters  cover  the  sea." 
Soon  inuy  these  labours  of  love  be  extended  to  the  south  island  of 
New-Zealand,  where  the  people  now  sit  in  intellectual  darkness,  and  in. 
the  shadow  of  moral  death.  Heaven  will  continue  to  bless  your  ex- 
ertions, and  to  reward  those  who  contribute  to  the  promotion  of  so. 
good,  so  great  a  cause.  Mankind  will  bless  you  ;  but  above  all,  they 
•will  doubly  bless  you  "  who  go  down  to  the  sea  in  ships,  and  do- 
business  in  great  waters  ;"  they  who  "  see  the  works  of  the  Lord,  and 
his  wonders  in  the  deep  ;"  for  every  missionary  is  emphatically  the 
mariner's  friend. 

In  the  course  of  the  forenoon,  the  deck  of  the  republican  schooner 
Antarctic  was  honoured  by  the  footsteps  of  royalty  !  The  areekee 
and  his  august  consort — i.  e.  the  king  and  queen  of  the  northera 
district  of  Eaheino-maice,  paid  us  a  friendly  and  familiar  visit.  His 
majesty,  old  Kippy-kippy,  as  soon  as  he  came  on  board,  begged  to 
know  in  what  he  could  serve  me,  at  the  same  time  intimating  that  he 
and  his  people  owed  an  immense  debt  of  gratitude  to  the  whites,  for 
the  civil,  moral,  intellectual,  and  spiritual  blessings  they  had  received 
from  them  through  the  instrumentality  of  the  English  missionaries^ 
His  majesty  was  pleased  to  make  a  long  speech  on  the  occasion,  re- 
plete with  sentiments  of  gratitude  and  friendship,  and  not  deficient  in 
good  sense  and  propriety  of  expression  ;  to  all  of  which  I  replied  in 
seaman-like  brevity,  and  so  the  conference  terminated,  to  the  mutual 
satisfaction  of  all  parties. 

).  This  is  one  of  the  most  conuuodious  harbours  that  it  is  possible  for 
a  seaman  to  desire.  The  entrance  is  free  and  easy  of  access  ;  there 
being  only  one  hidden  danger  more  than  a  cable's  length  from  ths- 
shore;  and  this  one  is  about  half-way  up  the  passage,  in  going  into  the- 
harbour,  and  a  little  on  the  south  shore.  It  is  about  the  size  of  the  deck 
of  a  ship,  and  has  nine  feet  of  water  over  it  at  low  water.  With  a 
strong  easterly  wind,  the  sea  breaks  upon  it.  I  had  no  opportunity  of 
examining  the  sound  that  leads  into  this  harbour,  as  we  entered  at 
night,  and  departed  in  a  thick  rain-storm,  which  is  strong  presumptive 
evidence  that  the  passage  is  not  dangerous. 

It  was  in  this  bay  that  the  unfortunate  French  navigator  Marioix 

Aa2 


372  NE  W.ZEALAND.  [1830. 

cinchorcd,  and  his  crew  lived  on  terms  of  familiarity  and  apparently 
of  cordial  friendship  with  the  natives.  But  some  offence  Avas  given 
unintentionally  to  the  passionate  and  capricious  savages.  Ever  eager 
tor  revenge,  they  came  upon  the  Europeans  unawares,  and  murdered 
Marion  in  a  most  brutal  manner,  with  sixteen  of  his  crew,  who  accom- 
panied him  on  shore.  Another  party  of  his  crew,  consisting  of  eleven 
men,  who  were  cutting  wood  in  a  different  part  of  the  bay,  were  attacked 
at  the  same  time,  and  only  one  of  them  escaped  to  the  ship,  to  com- 
municate the  disastrous  intelligence.  When  the  French  landed  whh 
all  their  force,  to  seek  the  remains  of  their  unfortunate  countrymen 
and  brave  commander,  who  fell  at  the  first  onset,  the  natives  insultingly 
called  to  them  from  their  fastnesses,  and  boasted  that  their  chief  had 
eaten  ^Marion's  heart ! 

Tlie  English  have  suffered  from  similar  acts  of  perfidy,  the  last  of 
which  was  the  case  of  the  ship  Boyd,  in  1809,  the  crew  of  which,  to  the 
number  of  seventy,  was  massacred  by  the  chief  named  George. 
Since  that  period,  the  nature  and  disposition  of  these  peuple  have  un- 
dergone a  most  wonderful  change  for  the  better,  through  the  unwearied 
labours  of  benevolent  and  pious  missionaries.  They  are  now  a 
civilized,  rational  business  people,  having  a  very  brisk  intercourse  with 
the  British  settlements  of  New  South  Wales,  and  Van  Dieman's 
Land.  Thev  make  excellent  sailors  too,  after  a  short  course  of  train- 
ing ;  as  I  can  vouch  for  from  experience,  having  had  several  of  them  at 
sea  with  me. 

January  23(f. — On  Saturday,  the  23d,  agreeably  to  previous  ar- 
rangements, I  attended  Mrs.  Morrell  to  the  missionary  establish- 
ment, which  she  was  very  anxious  to  visit.  We  were  accompanied 
by  three  of  the  English  captains  before  mentioned.  King,  M'Auly,  and 
Gray  ;  and  were  met  on  the  beach  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Williams,  who 
appeared  to  be  very  much  rejoiced  to  see  us.  After  a  mutual  inter- 
change of  the  customary  courtesies,  he  conducted  us  to  his  house,  and 
introduced  us  to  his  amiable  family — a  lovely  wife,  and  two  very  in- 
teresting daughters,  just  fitted  to  receive  and  impart  pleasure,  in  the 
rational  sphere  of  moderate  fashionable  life.  I  contemplated  these 
females  wiih  peculiar  interest,  and  could  not  conceal  my  adm.uation  of 
that  disinterested  devotedness  which  could  induce  them  to  leave  their 
country,  with  so  many  endearing  relationships,  and  become  immured 
for  life  in  a  solitary  spot,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  globe,  surrounded 
by  barbarous  savages,  and  exposed  to  a  thousand  privations.  'Twas 
the  divinity  which  stirred  within  them. 

In  this  missionary  establishment,  which  lies  about  five  miles  from 
the  Antarctic's  anchorage,  on  the  west  side  of  the  bay,  the  most  admi- 
rable and  perfect  system  of  order  prevails  v\hich  I  have  ever  wit- 
nessed ;  and  this  is  all  owing  to  a  proper  and  judicious  apportionment 
of  time.  They  rise,  every  morning,  at  daybreak,  when  the  labouring 
natives  assemble,  and  the  day  is  opened  with  prayer.  After  despatching 
a  hasty  but  wholesome  breakfast,  they  repair  to  the  field,  each  missionary 
dressed  in  his  coarse  frock  and  trousers,  carrying  in  his  hand  a  hoe 
or  spade,  or  some  other  agricultnral  implement.  Here  they  labour  all 
the  forenoon,  v.ith  as  much  industry  and  perseverance  as  any  of  our 


Jan.]  THE  MISSIONARIES.  373 

New-England  farmers,  until  the  hour  of  midday,  when  they  all  par- 
take of  an  excellent  dinner,  preceded  by  prayers,  and  followed  by  a 
brief  return  of  thanks.  After  this,  they  again  repair  to  the  field,  and 
continue  to  work  until  four  o'clock,  when  the  labours  of  the  day  are 
finished,  the  two  following  hours  being  appropriated  to  amusements 
and  recreation.  They  assemble  at  six  o'clock,  and  partake  of  a  light 
supper,  after  which  the  natives  receive  lessons  in  reading,  writing, 
and  arithmetic ;  or  hear  a  religious  lecture.  At  nine,  P.  M.,  the  day 
is  closed  with  prayer,  when  a  sweet  night's  rest  recruits  their  health 
and  spirits,  and  fits  them  for  the  exercises  of  the  following  day. 

While  the  missionaries  are  thus  occupied  with  the  male  natives, 
their  wives  and  daughters  are  equally  busy  with  the  females,  teaching 
them  to  read  and  write,  and  also  the  art  of  needlework.  Thus  these 
good  people  devote  their  whole  time  in  labouring  to  promote  the  tem- 
poral as  well  as  the  eternal  welfare  of  the  natives  of  New-Zealand. 
Several  handsome  specimens  of  their  writing  were  shown  us,  together 
with  some  pieces  of  original  composition  that  evinced  no  ordinary 
degree  of  genius  and  talent.  I  heard  some  of  them  read,  also,  with 
great  accuracy,  both  in  English  and  in  their  own  tongue,  which  the 
missionaries  have  so  reduced  to  a  grammatical  system,  that  it  has 
become  a  written  and  printed  language.  Mrs.  Morrell  examined  sev- 
eral  specimens  of  needlework  executed  by  the  female  natives,  which 
she  pronounced  to  be  equal  to  any  thing  of  the  kind  she  had  ever 
seen. 

A  very  pretty  village  encircles  the  mission,  the  buildings  of  which 
are  mostly  framed  and  built  like  the  houses  in  our  country  villages* 
The  better  sort,  however,  are  built  of  stone,  and  handsomely  painted. 
All  of  them  are  whitewashed,  and  have  beautitul  gravel  walks  in  front, 
with  neatly  cultured  gardens  in  the  rear.  Some  of  the  natives  have 
become  ingenious  mechanics  as  well  as  experienced  and  skilful 
farmers.  Thus  those  plains,  which  but  a  few  years  ago  were  the  scenes 
of  bloodshed  and  human  sacrifices,  have  been  converted  into  culti- 
vated plantations  and  fields  for  innocent  amusement ;  where  the  horrid 
rites  of  pagan  superstition  were  once  performed,  are  now  erected  altars 
consecrated  to  the  one  true  and  only  living  God. 

After  spending  a  few  hours  at  this  delightful  establishment,  which 
my  wife  reckons  among  the  pleasantest  of  her  whole  life,  we  took  an 
affectionate  leave  of  our  excellent  friends,  and  proceeded  to  the  beach, 
attended  by  several  of  the  Christian  natives,  who  parted  from  us  with 
great  reluctance.  On  shoving  off,  they  exclaimed,  as  with  one  voice, 
"  Farewell !  good  Americans  !  Gentlemen  and  lady,  God  bless  you !" 
Our  honest  tars  seemed  inspired  by  this  ebullition  of  feehng  from  the 
natives  ;  and  with  their  muscular  arms  caused  our  little  boat  to  skim 
like  a  swallow  over  the  waters  of  the  bay,  whose  bosom  seemed  as 
placid  as  our  own.  Not  a  soul  left  the  beach  till  they  saw  us  in 
safety  on  the  Antarctic's  deck. 

AVe  reached  the  vessel  just  before  dark,  where  I  found  that  my  ex- 
cellent officer,  Mr.  Hunt,  had  as  usual  been  prompt  and  vigilant  in  tlie 
performance  of  his  duty,  and  every  thing  was  ready  for  saiHng.  I 
was  met  at  the  gangway  by  my  royal  visiters  of  the  morning,  old 


374  SAIL  FROM  NEW-ZEALAND.  [1830. 

Kippy-kippy  and  his  queen.  The  latter  made  my  M'ife  a  present 
of  five  beautiful  mats,  manufactured  by  tlie  natives,  of  the  silken 
hemp,  which  is  a  natural  production  of  the  country  ;  and  which,  if  the 
plant  was  once  introduced  into  the  United  8tates,  would  supply  the 
whole  nation  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  a  superior  article  to  any  they 
have  ever  manufactured. 

This  chief  is  of  common  stature,  stout,  muscular,  and  active ;  with 
a  countenance  tliat  indicates  intelligence,  shrewdness,  and  mental 
energy.  As  an  areekee^  he  is  in  the  habit  of  assuming  more  dignity, 
perhaps,  than  he  really  feels  ;  but,  tliough  "  the  milk  of  human  kind- 
ness" preponderates  in  his  heart,  he  deserves  and  commands  an  un- 
limited degree  of  respect  from  his  people.  His  wife  is  smaller  and 
more  delicately  proportioned,  with  a  countenance  beaming  with  kind- 
ness, tenderness,  and  benevolence  ;  I  doubt  whether  it  was  ever  ruffled 
by  an  angry  or  ill-natured  sensation. 

From  some  indefinable  cause  or  other,  they  both  became  very  much 
^attached  to  me,  and  expressed  a  strong  desire  to  accompany  me  to 
America,  in  order  to  see  the  country,  acquire  some  of  our  useful  arts, 
and  then  return  to  teach  the  same  to  their  people.  This  was  certainly 
a  laudable  ambition,  not  unworthy  of  Peter  the  Great,  czar  of  all  the 
Kussias.  I  was  obliged  to  throw  a  damper  on  it,  however,  by  telling 
tiiem  that  it  would  be  a  very  long  time  before  my  duty  would  permit 
rne  to  sail  for  America,  as  I  must  first  visit  many  other  islands  and 
countries,  and  load  my  vessel  with  their  productions.  This  unex- 
pected repulse  caused  them  to  look  quite  dejected  for  a  few  minutes  ; 
after  which  they  requested  me  to  stop  at  their  island  on  my  way  home, 
and  they  would  hold  themselves  in  readiness  to  embark  with  me,  and 
would  fill  the  Antarctic  with  hemp,  as  a  remuneration  for  my  trouble. 
We  finally  parted  with  mutual  regret. 

January  2oth. — Having  completed  our  "  wooding  and  watering,"  as 
seamen  term  it,  and  taken  on  board  a  large  supply  of  hogs  and  pota- 
toes, we  got  under  way,  on  Monday,  the  25th,  at  six,  A.  M.,  and  put 
to  sea,  with  the  wind  at  south-east,  attended  with  heavy  falls  of  rain. 
Captains  King,  Gray,  and  M'Auly,  and  his  majesty  Kippy-kippy  ac- 
companied mc  several  miles  down  the  bay  ;  where,  at  seven,  A.  M., 
^hey  took  their  leave,  and  in  a  few  minutes  their  little  boat  was  out 
of  sight  astern.  I  had  become  quite  attached  to  the  three  English 
gentlemen  just  named,  and  wished  that  I  could  have  longer  enjoyed 
their  society.  .They  wore  no  stars,  and  bore  no  titles  ;  but  they  were 
2ioblemen  of  Heaven's  own  make.  They  were  simple  mariners,  like 
myself;  but  real  gentlemen  in  the  best  sense  of  the  word.  It  is  not 
probable,  scarcely  possible,  that  we  shall  ever  meet  again ;  but  if  this 
humble  narrative  should  happen  to  meet  the  eye  of  either,  it  will  be 
•seen  that  some  impressions  fasten  strongly  on  my  heart. 

Having  been  thus  far  disappointed  in  procuring  a  cargo  of  furs,  I 
now  determined  to  change  the  original  character  of  the  voyage,  and 
'Steer  for  Manilla,  to  procure  a  freight  for  Europe  or  America.  At 
eight,  A.  M.,  wc  were  clear  of  the  bay,  and  steered  to  the  north, 
intending  to  pass  between  the  Feejee  Islands  and  the  New-Hebrides, 
40  the  east  of  Charlotte's  archipelago,  and  cross  the  equator  in  about 


Feb.]  NEW-HEBRIDES— HOPE  ISLAND.  375 

longitude  165^  ;  then  to  shape  our  course  for  the  Philippine  Islands. 
We  continued  in  this  northerly  course,  with  variable  winds,  and 
occasional  foul  weather,  until  Monday,  the  1st  of  February',  when  we 
took  the  south-east  trade-winds,  in  latitude  20^  30'  S.,  long.  170^  52'  E. 

February  2d. — On  the  following  day,  at  six,  P.  M.,  we  passed  the 
island  of  Erronan,  which  lies  in  latitude  19^  28'  S.,  long.  170^  24'  E. 
This  island  is  one  of  the  New-Hebrides,  of  which  group  we  have  not 
sufficient  knowledge  to  give  any  particular  description.  Most  readers 
are  aware  that  this  cluster  of  islands  was  discovered  by  Quiros,  in 
1606,  who  thought  them  to  be  part  of  a  great  southern  continent,  to 
which  he  gave  the  name  of  Australia  del  Espiritu  Santo.  They 
were  next  visited  by  Bouganville,  in  1768,  who  did  no  more  than  dis- 
cover that  the  land  was  not  connected,  but  composed  of  islands,  to 
which  he  gave  the  elegant  name  of  the  Great  Cyclades.  After  an- 
other interval  of  seven  years,  the  celebrated  Captain  Cook  completed 
the  discovery,  who  gave  the  whole  cluster  the  name  of  the  New- 
Hebrides,  after  a  group  which  lies  on  the  west  coast  of  Scotland.        ' 

February  ith. — We  continued  on  our  passage  to  the  north,  until 
Thursday,  the  4th  of  Februar)%  when,  being  in  latitude  14^  30'  S., 
long.  170^  0'  E.,  we  took  the  winds  from  north-M'est,  to  north-north- 
east, which  continued  to  blow  from  these  quarters  for  about  a  fortnight. 
In  the  mean  time  we  crossed  the  equator  in  longitude  166^  30' ;  and 
on  Thursday,  the  18th,  in  latitude  4°  20'  N.,  long.  167°  20"  E.,  we 
took  the  north-east  trade-^^^nds  from  east-north-east.  On  the  same 
day  we  saw  several  indications  of  land.* 

February  \9th. — On  the  19th  we  passed  close  in  with  Hope  Island, 
which  is  in  latitude  5°  17'  N.,  long.  164°  47'  E.  It  is  moderately  ele- 
vated in  the  centre,  and  descends  into  beautiful  plains  and  fertile  val- 
leys towards  the  shore,  which  are  literally  covered  with  cocoanut- 
trees,  plantains,  and  bananas.  We  now  changed  our  course  to  west- 
north-wes-t  and  west-by-north,  seeing  drift-wood  and  land-birds  every 
day ;  these  were  sure  indications  of  our  being  near  land,  and  bright- 
ened my  anticipations  of  making  some  new  discoveries. 

*  Our  situation  at  this  date  was  about  eighty  miles  from  a  group  of  islands  which  has  since  been 
discovered  by  Captain  Hiram  C'ovel  of  the  barque  Alliance,  of  Newport,  R.  I. ;  who  states  that  on 
the  7th  May,  1831,  in  latitude  4°  30'  N.,  long.  163^  40'  E.,  he  discovered  a  group  of  fourteen  island* 
not  laid  down  on  any  chart.  They  were  all  inhabited,  and  the  natives  spoke  the  Spanish  language. 
He  called  them  the  Covel  Group. 


376      NEW  DISCOVERIES— WESTERVELT'S  GROUP.  [1830. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

New  Discoveries — Westervelt's  Group — An  ominous  Dream — A  perilous  Situa- 
tion— Extricated  by  a  dexterous  nautical  Manoeuvre — Brrgh's  Group  discovered 
— Livingston's  Island — Arrive  at  Manilla — Philippine  Islands — Luconia — 
City  and  Bay  of  Manilla — A  Hint  to  the  Ladies. 

AVe  were  now  sailing  in  that  part  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  which  had 
been  the  least  traversed,  either  by  merchantmen  or  discovery-ships. 
Of  the  few  islands  which  had  heretofore  been  seen  m  these  seas 
scarcely  any  thing  was  known,  except  that  they  appeared  on  the  latest 
charts  as  the  "  Caroline  Islands,"  with  the  remark  that  their  situation 
and  positions  were  "  not  well  determined."  I  had  long  since  been 
forcibly  impressed  with  the  idea  that  a  rich  field  for  tropical  discove- 
ries lay  along  this  side  the  equator,  between  the  meridians  of  140° 
and  160°  east  longitude ;  and  it  was  a  firm  conviction  of  this  fact 
that  induced  me  to  stretch  so  far  north,  before  I  bore  away  for  the 
Philippine  Islands.  Tlie  correctness  of  my  theory  was  now  about 
to  be  fully  and  satisfactorily  verified. 

February  23c?. — The  cheering  cry,  from  the  mast-head,  of  "  Land> 
ho ! — land,  ho !  under  our  starboard  bow,"  brought  every  soul  upon 
deck.  This  was  on  Tuesday,  the  23d  of  February,  at  about  three, 
P.  M.  We  changed  our  course,  and  ran  for  the  stranger ;  which,  at 
four,  P.  M.  was  seen  to  be  composed  of  three  small  low  islands,  of 
nearly  equal  size,  connected  by  a  coral  reef,  and  not  laid  down  on 
any  chart,  or  mentioned  in  any  epitome  of  navigation  extant.  They 
are  very  low,  the  most  elevated  parts  being  not  more  than  twenty-five 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  but  well  wooded,  being  almost  en- 
tirely covered  with  cocoanut  and  bread-fruit  trees.  On  examining 
them  closelv,  I  found  that  neither  of  them  was  more  than  five 
miles  in  circumference,  and  that  biche-de-mer  and  pearl  oysters  may 
be  found  both  on  and  within  the  reef  that  connects  them.  As  this 
was  evidently  a  new  discovery,  we  concluded  to  name  it  Westervelt's 
group,  in  honour  of  Jacob  AVestervelt,  Esq.,  an  excellent  shipwright, 
^nd  a  worthy  citizen  of  the  city  of  New- York.  They  are  situated  in 
latitude  7°  5'  N.,  long.  153'-'  10'  E. 

In  traversing  these  seas,  I  had  deemed  it  necessary  to  multiply  my 
"  look-outs  ;"  so  that  during  the  whole  passage  from  New-Zealand  to 
the  Philippine  Islands,  there  was  a  regular  mast-head  kept  day  and 
night ;  besides  one  man  on  the  extreme  end  of  the  jib-boom,  one  man 
on  the  bowsprit,  and  one  man  on  each  cat-head ;  all  keeping  a  sharp 
look-out  for  low  land  or  breakers.  My  reasons  for  this  extra  precau- 
tion, were  to  avoid  the  dangerous  reefs  Mhich  might  be  met  with  in 
these  partially  explored  regions,  and  tne  expectation  of  falling  in  with 
islands  which  had  never  before  been  discovered. 


Feb.]  '  OMITsOrS  BREAM.  377 

After  carefully  examining  and  naminfj  Westervelt's  Group,  we  con- 
tinued to  steer  to  the  west,  a  little  northerly,  with  a  fine  breeze  from 
north-east,  and  squally,  until  eight,  P.  M.,  when  the  weather  set  in  so 
thick,  that  it  was  judged  imprudent  to  run.  The  Antarctic  was  there- 
fore hove-to,  with  the  starboard  tacks  on  board.  At  eleven,  P.  M., 
the  weather  cleared  off,  and  we  filled  away,  steering  to  the  westward, 
with  a  ten-knot  breeze,  keeping  the  "  look-outs"  stationed  at  their  re- 
spective  posts,  as  mentioned  above,  hailed  every  few  minutes  by  the 
officer  of  the  deck.  We  were  now  going  off  under  the  mainsail,  fore- 
topsail,  top-gallant-sail,  square-sail,  jib,  and  flying-jib,  at  the  rate  of 
ten  miles  an  hour. 

I  had  not  slept  a  wink  the  two  preceding  nights,  and  was  now  nearly 
exhausted  by  fatigue  and  watchfulness.  At  midnight,  therefore,  having 
renewed  my  injunctions  of  caution  to  the  watch  on  deck,  I  went  below 
to  take  a  short  nap ;  but  feeling  a  presentiment  that  it  would  be  very 
temporan,'-,  I  merely  threw  a  mat  on  the  cabin  floor,  and  lay  down  upon 
it,  where  I  soon  fell  into  a  disturbed  slumber,  which  was  very  far  from 
being  refreshing.  My  bodily  senses,  it  is  true,  were  "  steeped  in  for- 
getfulness ;"  but  my  better  part  was  still  actively  employed  in  the  du- 
ties of  the  deck.  Confused  and  undefinable  images  of  difticuliies  and 
dangers  flitted  across  my  imagination,  and  in  a  few  minutes  I  passed 
through  weeks  and  months  of  fruitless  toils,  strange  incidents,  and  un- 
heard-of disasters. 

At  length  the  broken  fragments  of  a  tragical  picture  seemed  to  be 
reunited,  and  the  visions  of  my  fancy  assumed  some  orderly  arrange- 
ment. I  was  sailing  on  an  unknown  coast,  by  moonlight,  running  be- 
fore a  gentle  breeze,  with  every  inch  of  canvass  extended.  Every  thing 
wore  a  sombre  and  melancholy  appearance — the  moon  even  seemed 
to  look  down  upon  me  in  pity,  and  the  shore,  as  it  glided  past  me,  ap- 
peared to  be  peopled  with  spectres.  I  thought  I  v/as  at  the  helm,  and 
all  alone.  The  deck  v/as  running  with  blood,  and  the  idea  now  flashed 
across  my  mind  that  all  my  crew  had  been  cut  to  pieces  by  pirates. 
My  situation  was  lonely  and  dreary  in  the  extreme,  and  I  longed  to 
hear  the  voice  of  a  human  being.  In  the  next  instant  a  shadowy  form 
flitted  past  me  without  sound  of  footsteps,  and  mounted  the  cat-head. 
After  looking  out  on  the  deep  a  few  moments,  he  suddenly  turned  his 
face  aft,  and  I  recogtiised  the  countenance  of  my  deceased  friend,  the 
youthful  and  amiable  Samuel  Geery.  With  his  right  hand  and  arm 
extended  in  the  direction  we  were  sailing,  he  suddenly  exclaimed,  in  a 
loud  voice,  "  Breakers  ahead,  sir  !" 

I  was  on  deck,  and  had  the  helm  hard  down,  before  the  officer  of 
the  watch  had  time  to  repeat  the  startling  exclamation.  My  dream 
had  become  a  frightful  reality,  and  the  warning  voice  which  dissolved 
its  vision  was  from  the  mast-head. 

Mr.  Hunt  was  scarcely  an  instant  behind  me  in  reaching  the  deck, 
from  which  he  leaped  on  the  forecastle,  and  in  a  moment  more  all 
hands  were  aft,  gathering  in  the  main-sheet,  which  was  then  about  five 
points  off;  at  the  same  time  the  head-yards  were  kept  pointed  to  the 
wind,  and  the  headsail  hauled  down. 

I  had  not  yet  seen  the  breakers  myself;  but  I  perceived  that  every 


378  PERILOUS  SITUATION.  [1830. 

one  of  the  crew  had  gazed  in  that  direction  as  they  came  upon  deck, 
and  that  terror  was  strongly  depicted  on  every  countenance.  I  was 
also  aware  that  if  they  were  permitted  to  interchange  expressions  of 
apprehension,  a  scene  of  confusion  must  ensue  which  would  seal  the 
fate  of  the  Antarctic,  and  ingulf  us  all,  my  wife  included,  in  one  com- 
mon CTrave.  I  therefore  commanded  silence,  in  as  stern  a  voice  as  I 
knew  how  to  assume,  and  my  lungs  seldom  fail  me  in  cases  of  emer- 
gency— I  threatened  with  instant  death  the  first  man  that  spoke  a  word 
above  his  breath  abaft  the  foremast.  This  had  the  desired  effect ;  for 
the  next  instant  there  was  nothing  to  be  heard  but  the  whistling  of  the 
winds  and  the  howling  of  the  lofty  combers,  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  fathoms  under  our  lee. 

The  vessel  was  coming-to  very  fast ;  but  not  being  able  to  get  the 
main-sheet  aft  as  soon  as  necessary,  on  account  of  a  small  line  getting 
into  the  main-boom  tackle-block,  which  prevented  the  fall  being  over- 
hauled ;  and  meeting  a  very  short  and  cross-head  sea  in  the  bows, 
which  deadened  the  vessel's  headway  before  she  came  to  the  wind, 
she  got  stern-way  upon  her,  and  began  to  fall  off. 

"  Keep  the  helm  hard  a-port !"  I  exclaimed,  as,  for  the  first  time, 
my  eye  caught  a  view  of  the  breakers,  under  our  lee.  "  Brace  the 
head-yards  aback  !  Down  mainsail !  Up  head-sails,  with  sheets  to 
windward  !"  These  orders  were  obeyed  as  rapidly  as  they  were 
given  ;  and  the  Antarctic  began  to  fall  off  very  fast,  with  rapid  stem-way 
upon  her,  so  that  the  sea  was  coming  in  on  both  quarters.  The  head- 
yards  were  braced  aback  as  long  as  possible,  without  springing  them, 
and  the  headsails  were  rim  down  the  moment  they  refused  to  lie  aback 
any  longer.  The  instant  the  squaresails  began  to  fill,  the  yards  were 
braced  sharp  round  in  a  moment ;  and  before  the  Antarctic  gathered 
any  headway,  the  wind  was  about  one  point  off  the  larboard  quarter. 
The  mainsail  was  now  instantly  set,  and  the  vessel  began  to  gather  a  httle 
headway.  As  she  came-to,  the  head-yards  were  kept  pointed  to  the 
wind,  and  all  hands,  except  five  or  six,  were  placed  at  the  halliards  of 
the  headsails ;  and  by  the  time  the  vessel  had  come-to,  within  eight 
points  of  the  wind,  the  headsails  were  on  her,  and  she  was  jumping 
from  one  sea  to  another,  at  the  rate  of  eight  miles  an  hour,  with  the 
fore-sheet  aft. 

Thus,  in  wearing  or  veering,  a  sharp  pilot-boat  schooner,  of  seventy- 
eight  feet  keel,  in  a  ten-knot  breeze,  gained  more  than  twice  her  length 
off-shore :  and  the  man  at  mast-head  said  that  when  the  helm  was 
first  put  down,  the  vessel  was  nearer  the  breakers  than  when  she  had 
the  wind  on  the  other  quarter,  and  began  to  crawl  off-shore.  The 
breakers  M-ere  running  about  twenty  feet  high,  and  there  was  no  land 
in  sight  from  the  mast-head.  No  other  step  which  could  possibly  be 
taken  would  have  saved  the  beautiful  Antarctic  from  shipwreck.  She 
was  saved. 

At  the  very  crisis  of  our  fate,  my  wife  came  on  deck  and  asked  me 
if  I  would  have  my  hat !  Happily  for  her,  she  knew  not,  at  that  mo- 
ment, that  we  were  all  tottering  on  the  extreme  verge  of  destruction's 
precipice.  It  was  the  tender  officiousness  of  an  affectionate,  devoted 
wife ;  but  at  such  a  crisis  inconceivably  mal-apropos.     My  reply  was 


Feb.]  ANOTHER  DISCOVERY.  379 

*'  short,  and  not  sweet :"  "  Go  below  instantly,  my  dear,  or  I  shall  be 
compelled  to  have  you  taken  from  my  presence  by  force."  From 
that  moment  I  saw  her  no  more,  nor  was  there  a  word  spoken  on 
board,  among  thirty-four  men,  excepting  by  myself  and  the  first 
officer,  until  the  Antarctic  was  safe,  retreating  obliquely  from  the 
frothy  and  noisy  rage  of  the  boisterous  enemy.  Then  we  had  time 
to  breathe. 

We  stood  off-shore  until  half-past  three  o'clock,  when  we  hove- 
to,  witji_  the  starboard  tacks  on  biiard^.. ,  At  half-past  four,  A.  M.,  we 
fille"3"away,  and  stood  in  for  tEe^reef ;  and  at  half-past  five  we  were  close 
in  with  the  east  end  of  it,  when  we  discovered  land  to  the  westward, 
about  eighteen  miles  from  the  outer  breakers.  There  were  also  some 
small  low  islands  to  be  seen  near  the  inner  edge  of  the  reef,  along 
which  we  continued  to  steer,  finding  it  to  extend  in  a  circular  direc- 
tion, until  we  finally  sailed  nearly  round  it,  and  began  to  understand 
its  figure,  nature,  and  character.  This,  however,  had  exhausted  our 
daylight ;  we  therefore  stood  off  at  a  prudent  distance,  and  hove-to  for 
the  night. 

On  the  following  morning  we  resumed  our  examination  of  this  in- 
teresting discovery ;  for  such  it  proved  to  be.  It  was  a  group  of  beau- 
tiful islands,  surrounded,  enclosed,  fenced  in,  completely  locked  up,  and 
defended  by  a  wall  of  coral,  from  one-third  of  a  mile  to  three  miles  in 
width,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  circumference  ;  the  depth  of 
water  on  it  varying  from  two  to  eight  feet.  In  circumnavigating  this 
singular  submarine  parapet,  we  counted  more  than  seventy  islands, 
of  different  sizes,  situated  within  its  circle,  the  appearance  of  which 
was  truly  paradisiacal  and  delightful.  It  was  realizing,  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  judge,  all  that  poets  have  dreamed  of  "happy  isles,"  fairy- 
land, &c.  The  whole  were  clothed  with  the  richest  verdure,  and 
crowned  with  forests  of  cocoanut-trees,  bread-fruit,  oranges,  plantain, 
banana,  <fec.  The  mountains  appeared  to  be  wooded  to  their  very 
summits ;  and  every  appearance,  exammed  by  good  telescopes  from 
the  mast-head,  indicated  fertility  and  plenty.  Every  island  was  teem- 
ing with  inhabitants,  whose  curiosity  was  evidently  very  strongly  ex- 
cited by  the  sudden  apparition  of  our  vessel,  in  the  morning  subse- 
quent to  the  midnight  incident  which  came  so  near  leaving  them  nothing 
to  gaze  upon  but  the  Antarctic's  broken  timbers,  and  our  own  lifeless 
bodies.  Canoes  of  natives  were  seen  darting  from  one  island  to  an- 
other, and  the  utmost  alarm  and  confusion  seemed  to  reign  among 
those  tawny  children  of  the  reef.  The  water  within  the  reef  appeared 
like  a  polished  mirror,  reflecting  every  object  from  its  glassy  surface. 
The  natives  also  appeared  in  considerable  numbers  on  several  little 
islands  at  the  inner  edge  of  the  reef,  and  in  their  canoes  outside  the 
,  surf,  which  in  some  places  broke  twenty  feet  high. 

But  I  could  not  rest  contented  with  merely  viewing  these  happy 
isles  at  a  distance,  shut  out,  as  it  were,  by  an  envious  wall  im- 
passable as  adamant.  We  therefore  commenced  a  search  to  find 
some  place  of  entrance,  and  for  this  purpose  continued  our  examina- 
tion of  the  reef;  in  doing  which  we  discovered  four  passages  leading 
to  the  placid,  tranqiiil,  lake-like  waters  which  slept  within.     These 


380  BERGH'S  GROUP.  [1830 

passages  were  about  two  hundred  fathoms  wide,  with  a  depth  of  water 
from  rifieen  to  three  fathoms.  One  of  them  is  on  the  north-west  side, 
one  on  the  south-west,  one  on  the  south,  and  one  on  the  east.  The  An- 
tarctic boldly  entered  at  the  south-west  opening,  and  courteously  paid 
her  respects  to  the  astonished  natives,  who  in  assembled  groups  were 
gazing  at  her  graceful  figure  and  snow-white  wings,  as  she  glided  along 
the  mazy  passages  that  separate  these  lovely  islands.  The  whole 
scene  was  interesting  beyond  my  powers  of  description :  I  lament 
that  I  have  not  talent  to  do  it  justice.  ,  The  reader  must  be  content 
with  the  plain  matter-of-fact  observations  of  a  seaman. 

On  the  inner  edge  of  the  reef  there  is  a  range  of  small  low  islands, 
from  one  to  five  miles  apart,  covered  with  coccanut-trees.  There  are 
about  forty  of  this  description,  which  are  from  half  a  mile  to  three  or 
four  miles  in  circumference.  Within  this  circular  range  of  small 
islands  there  are  four  others  of  about  thirty  miles  in  circumference, 
and  moderately  elevated.  Between  the  latter  and  those  on  the  inner 
edge  of  the  reef,  there  are  about  twenty  that  are  quite  small,  covered 
with  cocoanut-trees.  A  reef  runs  from  one  island  to  another,  nearly 
through  the  Avhole  group,  which  renders  the  navigation  very  difficult 
m  penetrating  to  the  centre  of  the  group. 

Between  all  these  reefs  there  is  from  ten  to  twenty  fathoms  of  water  ; 
ihe  bottom  of  which  is  partly  covered  with  mother-of-pearl  oyster- 
shells,  as  many  parts  of  the  reef  are  with  Uche-de-mer.  From  the 
lofty  appearance  of  the  large  islands,  I  have  no  doubt  but  their  moun- 
tains contain  sandal-wood,  as  we  saw  some  of  the  paddles  of  the  na- 
tives made  of  that  material.  From  the  lava  and  pumice-stone  which 
"we  saw^  at  the  wash  of  the  shores,  I  am  led  to  infer  that  these  islands 
were  once  the  summits  of  volcanic  m.ountains.  But  it  must  have  been 
at  a  very  ancient  date,  as  they  are  now  all  covered  with  the  most  fer- 
tile and  luxuriant  growth  of  fruit  trees  and  timber  that  I  have  ever  seen 
on  any  one  group  in  the  North  Pacific  Ocean ;  and  wherever  I  landed 
I  found  the  soil  exceedingly  rich.  Besides  the  fruits  I  could  recog- 
nise with  my  glass  before  I  entered  the  reef,  I  now  discovered  lemons, 
jack  fruit,  and  a  kmd  of  melon,  something  like  our  water-melon,  but 
much  richer  in  its  flavour. 

During  our  short  stay  here  on  this  oin-  first  visit,  the  observations 
■we  made  were  necessarily  imperfect,  and  in  some  respects  erroneous  ; 
but  as  we  had  two  subsequent  and  favourable  opportunities  of  examin- 
ing these  islands,  and  becoming  familiar  with  their  inhabitants,  I  trust 
the  reader  will  find  nothing  recorded  but  what  I  know  to  be  facts. 
When  I  come  to  treat  of  the  personal  appearance,  dress,  character, 
manners,  habits,  and  customs  of  these  natives,  as  I  intend  to  do  in  a 
subsequent  chapter,  the  reader  will  be  surprised  to  find  himself  intro- 
duced to  a  peculiar  race  of  people,  differing,  in  many  respects,  from 
any  other  I  have  ever  seen  or  read  of. 

On  the  present  occasion  our  stay  w^as  so  short,  and  the  natives  so 
very  shy,  though  two  or  three  hundred  canoes  were  round  the  vessel  at 
one  time,  that  I  could  not  obtain  an  interview,  except  with  two  or  three, 
"Nvhom  I  took  on  board  the  Antarctic,  and  showed  them  such  wonders, 
and   made  them  such  presents,  as  almost  rendered  them  wild  with 


Feb.]  LIVINGSTON'S  ISLAND.  *  381 

pleasure  and  amazement.  I  feel  confident  that  they  never  saw  a  white 
man,  or  any  vessel  much  larger  than  a  canoe,  before  the  23d  of  Feb- 
ruary, 1830,  when  the  Antarctic  rose  on  their  astonished  view,  like 
some  white-winged  monster  emerging  from  the  ocean.  On  showing 
them  a  piece  of  biche-de-mer,  they  gave  me  to  understand  that  they 
could  collect  any  quantities  of  it,  and  wondered  what  use  I  could  make 
of  it.  They  intimated  the  same  also  when  I  inquired  for  mother-of- 
pearl  shells,  of  which  I  exhibited  some  specimens.  The  impression 
was  favourable. 

By  several  sets  of  observations  and  altitudes,  I  determined  the  situa- 
tion of  the  centre  of  this  group  to  be  in  latitude  7^  5'  N.,  long.  152'^ 
15'  E.     As  it  is  not  laid  down  on  any  chart,  nor  mentioned  in  any 
epitome,  I  named  it  Bergh's  Group,  in  honour  of  my  excellent  friend- 
Edwin  Bergh,  Esq.,  of  New- York. 

February  26tJi. — On  Friday,  the  26th,  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening, 
we  were  safely  out  of  this  little  labyrinth  of  coral,  and  shaping  our 
course  for  Manilla,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  north-east,  and  light  squalls 
of  rain.  We  continued  steering  to  the  north  and  west  until  the  follow- 
ing morning  at  eight,  A.  M.,  when  the  man  at  mast-head  suddenly  ex- 
claimed, "  Breakers  !  three  points  on  the  starboard  bow  !" 

KnoM'ing  that  there  was  no  reef  or  land  laid  down  on  the  charts  ia 
this  vicinity,  I  immediately  hauled  up  for  the  westernmost  part  of  the 
reef.  When  we  had  come  within  about  one  mile  of  the  breakers,  land 
was  discovered  bearing  north-north-west,  which  proved  to  be  an  un- 
inhabited island  at  about  fifteen  miles'  distance.  The  reef,  we  found, 
extended,  with  one  uninterrupted  chain  of  breakers,  to  the  south  part 
of  the  island,  and  was  composed  entirely  of  coral,  with  not  more  than 
ten  feet  of  water  on  it  at  any  time. 

At  twelve  o'clock,  M.,  we  were  close  in  with  the  west  side  of 
the  island,  which  proved  to  be  about  eight  miles  in  length,  from  north 
to  south,  and  half  that  distance  from  east  to  west ;  its  greatest  eleva- 
tion being  not  more  than  fifty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  was 
covered  with  shrubbery  and  palm-trees,  beneath  which  grew  a  long 
coarse  grass.  This  island  affords  water  of  a  good  quality,  and  is 
thickly  tenanted  by  land  and  sea-birds  of  different  species.  It  is  fre- 
quented by  turtles  also ;  both  the  hawk's-bill  and  the  green  turtle  resort 
to  its  shores  ;  while  the  waters  are  teeming  with  an  exhaustless  variety 
of  fish.  Shellfish  of  the  most  beautiful  species  abound  here  ;  and  rare 
specimens  may  be  collected  in  great  abundance  by  having  divers  on 
board,  to  go  down  outside  of  the  surf  Biche-de-mer  is  tolerablv 
abundant  on  the  reefs  ;  and  mother-of-pearl  shells  and  pearl-oysters 
are  found  in  the  lagoon  between  the  reefs,  with  many  other  kinds  of 
shell  of  the  pearl  species. 

It  may  here  be  proper  to  state,  that  there  is  a  reef  of  about  the  same 
length  as  the  one  already  mentioned,  running  off  from  the  north  end 
of  the  island,  bending  to  the  east-south-east  and  south,  until  it  meets 
the  other  at  the  south  end  of  the  island  ;  forming,  to  the  eastward  of 
the  island,  one  large  lagoon.  The  west  side  of  the  island  is  bold,  and 
clear  of  dangers,  with  good  anchorage  near  the  southern  point,  in 


382  PORT  OF  MANILLA.  [igaa. 

twelve  fathoms  of  water,  over  a  coral  bottom,  about  one-fourth  of  a 
mile  off-shore. 

I  determined  the  situation  of  this  island  to  be  in  latitude  8°  25'  N.^ 
long.  150°  22'  E.  The  latitude  is  correct,  but  the  longitude  may  be 
liable  to  an  error  of  a  few  miles,  on  account  of  the  weather  being 
squally,  which  prevented  our  getting  sights  for  the  chronometers,  or 
taking  astronomical  observations.  As  this  was  obviously  an  entire 
new  discovery,  we  gave  it  the  name  of  Livingston's  Island,  in  honour 
of  Charles  L.  Livingston,  Esq.,  of  New- York  ;  a  gentleman  whose 
v.'orth  and  talents  are  well  known  and  highly  appreciated  in  his  native 
.state. 

February  21th. — On  Saturday,  the  27th,  at  eight,  P.  M.,  we  bore 
up,  and  left  Livingston's  Island,  steering  to  the  west-north-west,  with  a 
fine  breeze  from  the  north-east,  attended  with  light  squalls  of  rain. 
We  continued  standing  to  the  westward,  passing  to  the  south  of  the 
island  of  Guham,  frequently  seeing  sperm-whales,  turtles,  fish  of  various 
kinds,  and  many  species  of  oceanic  birds. 

March  1th. — On  the  evening  of  Sunday,  the  7th,  at  nine,  P.  M.^ 
Vie  arrived  at  the  east  entrance  of  the  Strait  of  Manilla,  or  St.  Barnar- 
dino,  in  latitude  12''  45'  N.,  long.  124°  31'  E.  The  north-east  point 
of  Samar  Island  (which  should  always  be  the  first  land  made  in  run- 
ning for  Manilla  Strait)  is  situated  in  latitude  12°  38'  N.,  long.  125° 
29'  E.  In  doubling  this  cape,  you  may  come  within  about  two  miles 
of  the  land,  if  you  think  proper  ;  but  I  would  always  advise  mariners, 
in  running  for  the  strait,  to  give  this  land  a  berth  of  six  or  eight  miles  ; 
as  there  are  several  small  rocky  islands  lying  between  Cape  Espiritu 
Santo  and  the  island  of  St.  Barnardino,  which  lies  in  the  middle  of  the 
east  entrance  of  Manilla  Strait.  This  island  may  be  passed  on  either 
side,  though  the  preference  is  to  be  given  to  the  north,  which  I  would 
always  recommend  to  strangers,  as  this  passage  is  clear  of  dangers  ; 
■while  the  southern  passage  is  intersected  with  several  dangerous  shoals, 
upon  which  ships,  in  light  airs,  are  very  liable  to  be  carried  by  the 
strong  tides,  which  run  in  whirlpools,  from  three  to  five  miles  an  hour. 

March  \Oth. — We  pursued  our  course  through  the  strait,  with  light 
variable  winds,  and  fair  weather,  until  Wednesday,  the  10th  of  March, 
when,  at  eleven,  A.  M.,  we  came  to  anchor  in  Alanilla  Roads,  in  four 
fathoms  of  water,  clay  bottom,  with  the  lighthouse  on  the  mole,  at  the 
north  point  of  the  river  Cour,  bearing  north-east,  distant  one  mile  and 
a  half.  Here  we  found  many  ships  of  diflerent  nations  lying  at  anchor, 
and  waiting  for  cargoes.  Among  the  flags,  I  recognised  those  of  Spain, 
France,  Portugal,  England,  China,  and  the  star-spangled  banner  of  my 
native  land.  At  one,  P.  M.,  we  were  honoured  by  visits  from  the 
health  officer  of  the  port  and  the  custom-house  officer,  and  went  through 
all  the  little  ceremonies  and  et  ceteras  incidental  to  the  entrance  of  a 
stranger  into  a  foreign  port. 

The  city  of  Manilla  is  the  capital  of  the  island  of  Luconia,  and  of 
all  the  Spanish  possessions  in  the  Philippine  Islands.  This  extensive 
gToup  of  islands,  which  is  supposed  to  comprise  ten  hundred,  is  situ- 
ated in  the  North  Pacific  Ocean,  east  of  Cochin  China,  forming  the 
eastern  boundary  of  the  Chinese  Sea.     These  islands  are  scattered 


March.]  PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS— LUCONIA.  383 

over  a  space  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  leagues  in  extent  from  north  to 
south,  and  one  hundred  and  tifty  from  east  to  west.  The  principal 
islands  in  the  group  are  Luconia,  Mindanao,  Samar,  Matsbate,  Min- 
doro,  Luban,  Panay,  Leyte,  Bohol,  Zebu,  Negro's,  St.  John's,  Xolo, 
and  Abyo. 

The  population  of  the  whole  group  is  estimated  at  about  two 
millions  ;  of  which  seventy  thousand  are  Chinese,  seven  thousand  are 
Spaniards,  one  hundred  and  eighteen  thousand  are  mestizoes,  and  the 
rest  natives.  Of  the  latter  there  are  two  distinct  races — the  Papuas,  or 
negroes,  who  live  principally  m  the  interior,  and  seem  to  have  been 
ihe  primitive  inhabitants  ;  and  the  Malays,  who  dwell  nearer  the  coasts. 

These  islands  were  discovered  by  Magellan  in  1521,  and  received 
their  present  name  in  honour  of  Philip  XL,  I^ng  of  Spain.  The  first 
settlements  were  made  by  the  Spaniards,  in  1570.  In  1823  (seven 
years  previous  to  my  present  visit),  the  Creoles  and  mestizoes  made 
an  attempt  to  obtain  a  liberal  government ;  but  the  insurrection  was 
put  down  by  the  Spaniards,  who  employed  in  this  service  a  force  formed 
of  the  converted  natives. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  mountainous,  and  there  are  numerous 
volcanoes  in  the  different  islands,  whose  eruptions  have  repeatedly 
caused  great  ravages.  The  climate  is  variable,  but  the  heat  is  never 
excessive.  Violent  hurricanes  and  earthquakes  often  do  much  mis- 
chief. The  soil  is  not  less  various,  but  in  general  is  fertile.  Rice, 
coffee,  sugar,  cocoa,  tobacco,  indigo,  and  a  great  variety  of  pulse,  with 
many  sorts  of  tropical  fruits,  ebony,  sandal-wood,  die-woods,  &;c.,  are 
among  the  vegetable  productions.  Gold,  silver,  and  sulphur  are 
among  the  minerals. 

Lucon,  or  Luconia,  is  the  principal  of  the  Philippine  Islands  ;  it 
being  about  four  hundred  miles  in  length,  from  north  to  south,  and  from 
ninety  to  one  hundred  and  twenty  in  breadth ;  comprising  about  sixty- 
iive  thousand  square  miles.  The  country  is  generally  mountainous, 
an  elevated  ridge  extending  through  the  whole  length.  There  are 
several  volcanoes,  and  earthquakes  are  frequent  and  sometimes  de- 
structive ;  those  of  1650,  1754,  and  1821  are  still  remembered  with 
terror.  The  climate  is  temperate  for  the  latitude,  but  is  too  moist  to 
be  salubrious.  The  soil  is  rich  aud  fertile,  producing  East  and  West 
India  fruits  in  abundance,  with  several  kinds  of  spices.  Gold  is  found 
among  the  mountains  and  in  the  sands  of  the  rivers  ;  ambergris  is  thrown 
on  the  coast ;  and  civet-cats  are  common  to  the  country. 

The  city  of  Manilla  is  the  Spanish  capital,  and  the  seat  of  the  colonial 
government  of  that  nation  in  the  East.  It  lies  in  latitude  14°  37'  N., 
long.  120°  59'  E. ;  variation  per  azimuth  G°  40'  easterly.  This  city 
Avas  founded  in  1 57 1 ,  by  Miguel  Lopez  de  Legaspi.  It  is  a  walled  city, 
beaulilully  situated  on  a  kind  of  peninsula,  at  the  bottom  of  a  bay,  and 
is  well  fortified.  The  city  is  large,  the  streets  spacious,  and  the  houses 
handsome.  They  generally  consist  of  two  stories,  with  a  flat  roof,  and 
balconies  in  front.  The  lower  story  is  most  commonly  of  stone,  and 
the  upper  one  of  wood,  with  windows  of  mother-of-pearl,  or  some  other 
thin  transparent  material.  The  streets  are  well  paved,  and  lighted  at 
night.     The  palace  in  which  the  governor  resides  is  a  very  elegant 


394  CITY  AND  BAY  OF  MANILLA.  [  930. 

and  extensive  building ;  the  other  public  edifices  are  mostly  churches 
and  monasteries. 

This  is  the  chief  seat  of  commerce  for  the  Philippine  Islands,  g.nd 
the  port  is  constantly  crowded  in  the  summer  months  with  Chinese 
junks  ;  and  with  American,  English,  French,  Spanish,  Dutch,  and 
Portuguese  ships,  all  the  year  round.  The  principal  articles  of  export 
are  sugar,  indigo,  hemp,  cofiee,  tobacco,  rice,  honey,  pearls,  pearl  and 
tortoise-shell,  &c.  The  imports  consist  principally  of  wine,  brandy, 
cutlery,  <fcc.,  together  with  manufactured  articles  of  silk,  cotton,  and 
woollen.  This  city  was  taken  byjthe  English  in  1762,  and  ransomed 
for  a  million  pounds  sterling  ;  but  the  ransom  has  never  yet  been  paid, 
if  I  have  beeii  correctly  informed.  Its  present  population  is  about 
sixty  thousand  souls,  of  all  colours  and  features. 

Ships  bound  to  this  port  during  the  north-east  monsoons  should 
endeavour  to  make  the  land  a  little  north  of  the  bay ;  and  during  the 
south-west  monsoons  they  should  lirst  make  Goat  Island.  The  latter 
prevail  from  the  month  of  jMay  to  October  inclusive ;  and  the  former 
for  the  rest  of  the  year.  There  is  an  island  of  about  two  miles  in 
circumference,  lying  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay,  rather  nearer  to  the 
north  shore,  with  sufficient  depth  of  water  on  either  side  of  it,  close  to 
its  shore,  for  a  line-of-battle  ship.  During  the  north-east  monsoons,  I 
should  always  advise  ships  to  pass  to  the  north  of  this  island ;  but 
during  the  south-west  monsoons,  the  southern  passage  will  be  most 
advisable.  They  are  both  equally  safe  and  easy,  having  no  concealed 
dangers  half  a  mile  from  either  shore. 

This  island  is  called  the  Corregidor,  and  has  a  small  tort  and  signal- 
staff  on  its  summit,  where  the  Spanish  flag  is  displayed  on  ships  en- 
tering the  bay.  Strangers,  in  going  in  at  daylight,  will  do  well  to  keep 
the  island  close  on  board.  They  will  receive  a  visit  from  the  board- 
ing officer,  who  is  stationed  at  this  island  to  obtain  information  and 
assist  strangers  bound  to  Manilla,  with  provisions,  or  a  pilot  if  required. 
You  will  also  receive  the  daily  papers  by  the  boarding  officer,  who 
sends  a  boat  to  the  port  of  Cavite  every  day.  Ship-masters  should  be 
very  cautious  not  to  allow  any  boats  to  come  alongside,  nor  permit  any 
to  leave  the  vessel,  until  after  they  have  received  a  visit  from  the  health 
officer.  By  a  strict  attention  to  the  laws  and  customs  of  the  port,  a 
due  share  of  politeness,  with  a  few  trifling  presents  to  the  first  and 
second  captains  of  the  port,  the  collector,  and  heahh  officer,  you  will 
ensure  great  despatch  in  your  business  through  the  custom-house  ;  but 
a  contrary  deportment  will  inevitably  produce  delay. 

In  entering  the  bay  of  Manilla,  either  in  the  north  or  south  passage, 
you  will  not  have  less  than  ten  fathoms  of  water  within  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  either  shore.  From  the  Corregidor  to  the  city  the  course  is 
nortli-east-by-east  three-quarters-east,  eight  leagues  ;  and  to  the  port 
of  Cavite  the  course  is  east-bv-north  half-north,  seven  and  a  half 
leagues ;  and  from  Cavite  to  Manilla  the  course  is  north-north-east, 
three  leagues,  and  no  dangers  between  them.  The  soundings  are 
regular,  from  five  fathoms  at  Cavite,  increasing  gradually  until  half- 
way to  Manilla,  to  ten  fiUhoms  ;  and  then  decreasing  gradually  until 


xMarch.]  MANILLA— THE  NATIVES.  395 

off  the  port  or  ciiy  of  Manilla,  when  you  will  have  from  five  to  four 
fathoms,  within  one  mile  of  the  walls  of  the  city. 

On  the  north  and  south  sides  of  the  bay  of  ^lanilla  there  are  several 
sand  and  mud-banks,  running  from  half  a  mile  to  a  mile  off-shore, 
upon  the  most  of  w^iich  the  natives  have  fishing  weirs  or  stakes  of 
bamboo,  with  their  upper  ends  about  four  feet  above  the  water,  and 
very  close  together.  This  bay  is  large  and  spacious,  being  about 
twenty  leagues  in  circumference.  Its  entrance,  or  the  Corregidor,  is 
in  lathude  14^  27'  N.,  long.  120^  37'  E. 

The  anchorage  at  the  port  of  Manilla  is  good,  safe,  and  commodious 
during  the  fine  season  of  the  year,  which  is  during  the  north-east  mon- 
soons. In  fact,  a  ship  may  lay  at  this  port  all  the  year  round  in  per- 
fect safety,  provided  she  has  good  ground-tackling.  But  if  there  should 
be  any  doubt  respecting  this  apparatus,  I  would  advise  them,  during 
the  season  of  the  hurricanes  and  the  south-west  monsoons,  to  moor 
their  ships  at  Cavite,  which  is  properly  the  seaport  of  Manilla.  Here 
ships  may  lie  in  perfect  safety  all  the  year  round,  in  smooth  water. 

This  bay  is  bountifully  supplied  wdth  a  great  variety  of  excellent 
fish  ;  and  the  natives  employ  a  great  part  of  their  time  in  the  morning 
and  fore-part  of  the  day  in  fishing.  But  at  night  it  is  literally  covered 
with  their  little  canoes,  each  of  which  has  a  light  in  its  bows,  which 
gives  the  bay  from  the  anchorage  a  very  beautiful  and  picturesque  ap- 
pearance. These  exhaustless  treasures  of  the  deep  have  drawn 
round  the  shores  of  the  bay  and  the  environs  of  the  city  a  very  thick 
population  of  the  natives,  each  of  whom  is  contented  to  live  tw'enty- 
four  hours  on  a  little  fish  and  a  handful  of  rice. 

The  river  of  Manilla  is  not  less  amusing  than  the  bay.  It  is  on  the 
east  side  of  the  city,  from  which  it  separates  the  suburbs.  The  mouth 
of  this  river  is  formed  by  two  moles,  about  fifty  fathoms  apart,  with  a 
lighthouse  on  the  eastern  point ;  and  is  obstructed  by  a  bar,  which 
prevents  vessels  entering  that  draw  more  than  ten  feet  of  water.  It  is 
quite  a  pleasure  to  sail  on  this  river  in  the  canoes  or  bankers  of  the 
natives,  with  which,  near  its  mouth,  it  is  literally  covered,  bringing  pro- 
duce to  market.  The  small  boats  that  come  down  the  river  are  gen- 
erally too  well  loaded  to  afford  room  for  the  owner,  who  wades  by  its 
side  or  at  its  stern,  pushing  it  along  in  the  water.  In  this  task  they  are 
also  assisted  by  the  women,  who  are  as  fearless  of  the  water  as  a  duck. 
They  wade  into  any  reasonable  depth,  say  up  to  their  knees,  and  fre- 
quently to  their  hips,  always  taking  care  to  preserve  their  dress  from 
getting  wet,  which  they  hold  with  one  hand,  while  they  propel  the 
canoe  with  the  other. 

The  natives  of  both  sexes  are  almost  constantly  in  the  water,  either 
for  business  or  pleasure,  which  at  once  purifies  the  body,  and  imparts 
a  pleasing  elasticity  to  the  animal  spirits.  They  bathe  at  all  periods  of 
life  from  infancy  to  old  age ;  at  all  seasons,  and  in  all  weathers.  It  is  sup- 
posed by  some  writers  that  these  constant  ablutions  and  their  temperate 
diet  contribute  to  the  great  fruitfulness  of  the  Luconian  females,  and 
their  ripeness  for  early  marriage.  I  have  known  several  of  them  who 
had  borne  twins  at  the  age  of  twelve,  and  some  of  them  become 

Bb 


386   .  FEMALE  NATIVES.  [1830. 

mothers  at  eleven  years  old.     Those  that  arc  married  at  so  early  an 
age  generally  cease  to  bear  before  they  are  thirty. 

After  their  accouchement,  at  which  male  practitioners  never  assist, 
they  recover  liealth  and  strength  very  rapidly.  Miscarriages  and  acci- 
dents are  scarcely  known  among  them ;  their  female  accoucheurs,  having 
all  been  mothers  themselves,  know  their  business  practically,  which  is 
a  thing  impossible  to  one  of  our  sex.  With  these  female  natives  of 
Luconia  there  is  no  art  or  affectation  ;  all  is  nature  with  them.  They 
have  not  been  taught  to  look  forward  to  the  important  hour  which 
makes  them  mothers  with  apprehensions  of  danger ;  there  are  no  arti- 
ficial terrors  thrown  around  the  interesting  scene.  The  indispensable 
pangs,  which  are  courted  rather  than  shrunk  from,  are  endured  with 
patience,  and  an  humble  reliance  on  that  Power  whose  wisdom  ordained 
this  mode  of  fulfilling  the  divine  command  to  "  increase,  and  multiply, 
.and  replenish  the  earth." 

Their  sufierings,  however,  are  trifling  compared  with  those  which 
fashion  entails  upon  her  wretched  vassals  in  the  United  States.  The 
Manillian  wives  have  never  had  their  lovely  forms  screwed  up  in  a  ma- 
chine of  torture  that  was  never  heardof  among  all  the  diabolical  inven- 
tions of  the  Inquisition ;  a  machine  of  whalebone,  and  steel,  and  cord,  and 
pulleys,  and  levers  !  a  machine  as  far  more  ridiculous  and  mischievous 
than  the  iron  shoe  of  China  as  the  body  and  vitals  of  a  human  being  are 
of  more  value  than  the  foot.  They  have  lived  according  to  nature,  and 
now  enjoy  their  reward.  The  apprehension  of  deformity  or  malforma- 
tion in  the  infant,  a  horrid  idea  which  flits  across  the  imagination  of 
almost  every  European  and  American  female  in  the  situation  alluded 
to,  never  enters  the  mind  of  these  children  of  nature,  among  thousands 
of  whom  a  single  instance  of  personal  deformity  was  never  knovvT.. 
These  females  are  all  elegantly  shaped,  and  so  are  the  men ;  almost 
every  one  being  a  suitable  model  for  a  Venus  or  an  Apollo.  In  form, 
feature,  limb,  eyes,  teeth,  and  every  thing  but  "  complexion,  the  tinc- 
ture of  the  skin,"  they  are  equal  to  the  fairest  of  my  own  country- 
women ;  a  majority  of  whom  are  braced  up  so  sharp  that  they  can 
neither  stoop  for  their  glove,  should  they  chance  to  drop  it,  nor  tie  their 
shoe-string,  should  it  be  dangling  on  the  pavement. 


May.]  SAIL  FROM  MANILLA.  387 


CHAPTER  V. 

Sail  from  Manilla  for  the  Feejee  Islands — Discover  Skiddy's  Shoal — Islands  of 
Los  Matires — Visit  Bergh's  Group — Discover  Skiddy's  Group — Visit  Young 
William's  Group — Inter\-iew  with  the  Natives — Intended  Treachery  defeated — 
Visit  Monteverdeson's  Islands — Description  of  the  Natives — Indications  of 
Hostilities — An  Attempt  to  board  the  Antarctic — Continuation  of  the  Voyage 
— Discovery  of  the  Massacre  Islands — Friendly  Disposition  of  the  Natives. 

Finding  that  a  freight  for  Europe  or  America  could  not  be  immedi- 
ately obtained,  I  made  arrangements  to  fit  out  the  Antarctic  on  a 
voyage  to  the  Feejee  Islands,  there  to  procure  a  cargo  of  liche-de- 
mer,  tortoise-shell,  pearls,  pearl-shell,  or  any  other  valuables  which 
might  be  to  the  profit  of  the  owners.  The  necessary  arrangements 
for  this  enterprise  occupied  several  weeks,  during  which  period  my 
wife  and  myself  formed  several  valuable  and  highly  respectable  ac- 
quaintances in  the  city.  Among  others  were  Mr.  Cannell,  an  English 
merchant,  and  his  amiable  family,  consisting  of  wife,  children,  and 
niece,  the  latter  about  twenty  years  of  age.  This  gentleman  sustained 
an  irreproachable  character  as  a  merchant  and  a  man,  being  senior 
partner  in  the  house  of  Cannell  &  Gellis. 

Mrs.  Morrell  was  much  caressed  by  Mrs.  Cannell,  the  niece,  and  all 
the  children,  and  it  M'as  finally  arranged  that  she  would  remain  with 
them  at  Manilla,  during  my  absence  at  the  Fejee  Islands,  and  not  en- 
counter the  privations  and  dangers  of  the  voyage.  It  was  not  without 
reluctance  that  my  wife  consented  to  this  arrangement ;  but  being  very 
much  attached  to  Mrs.  Cannell  and  her  pleasant  little  family,  she  at 
length  became  reconciled  to  a  temporary  separation  from  me,  and  took 
up  her  residence  in  this  abode  of  virtue,  peace,  and  hospitality,  where 
I  knew  that  she  would  receive  such  protection  and  delicate  attentions 
as  her  sex  and  state  of  health  required.  The  Antarctic  was  not  ready 
for  sea  until  the  11th  of  April. 

April  I2th. — On  Monday,  the  12th,  at  7,  A.  M.,  we  got  under  way, 
and  left  the  port  of  Manilla,  with  the  wind  from  south-west,  and  fair 
weather ;  having  thirty-three  stout  able-bodied  men  on  board.  On  the 
following  day,  at  1,  P.  M.,  we  passed  the  Corregidor ;  and  at  6,  the  next 
morning,  we  were  in  the  west  entrance  of  the  Strait  of  Manilla,  or  St. 
Barnardino. 

April  IStk. — We  continued  on  our  passage  through  this  strait,  with 
fair  weather  and  light  winds,  until  Sunday,  the  18th  of  April ;  when, 
at  11,  P.  M.,  we  passed  the  island  of  St.  Barnardino,  lying  at  the  east 
entrance  of  the  strait.  We  now  stretched  to  the  eastward,  between 
the  eighth  and  twelfth  degrees  of  north  latitude,  for  more  than  a  fort- 
night, with  variable  winds  and  weather. 

May  6th. — On  Thursday,  the  6th  of  May,  at  6,  A.  M.,  we  saw  the 
island  of  Faralis,  situated  in  lat.  8°  57'  north,  long.  145"  27'  east. 

Bb2 


388  LOS  MATIRES— BERGH'S  GROUP.  [1830 

This  is  a  small  iiiiinhabited  island,  about  three  miles  in  circumference, 
and  destitute  of  wood  of  any  considerable  growth.  It  is  not  much 
elevated,  being  not  more  than  two  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  A  coral  reef  runs  off  its  south  side,  about  two  miles,  on  which 
the  sea  breaks.  On  the  following  day,  at  11,  P.  M.,  we  saw  the 
island  of  Ifelue,  in  lat.  8°  10'  north,  long.  146°  57'  east.  .This  island 
is  about  the  same  size  as  Faralis,  just  mentioned,  and  similar  to  it  in 
every  respect. 

May  ^th. — We  continued  standing  to  the  eastward,  with  light 
winds  from  north-north-east,  attended  with  rain,  thunder,  and  light- 
ning, until  Saturday,  the  8th  of  May ;  when,  at  6,  A.  INT.,  we  found 
ourselves  on  a  very  extensive  reef  of  coral,  stretching  about  twenty 
miles  east  and  west,  and  fifteen  miles  north  and  south ;  with  from  two 
to  fifteen  fathoms  of  water  upon  it.  There  was  no  land  in  sight  from 
any  part  of  the  reef,  which  is  in  lat.  7°  35'  north,  long.  148'^  14'  east. 
As  this  shoal  has  never  been  marked  on  any  chart,  nor  discovered  be- 
fore, we  shall  give  it  the  name  of  Skiddy's  Shoal,  in  honour  of  Captain 
William  Skiddy,  of  New- York. 

May  IQth. — On  Monday,  the  10th  of  May,  we  were  close  in  with 
ihe  islands  of  Los  Matires,  which  we  found  to  be  in  lat.  7°  44'  north, 
iong.  149°  54'  east.  These  islands  are  three  in  number,  all  small  and 
low,  with  dangerous  reefs  putting  off  from  them  in  all  directions.  They 
are  thinly  populated,  and  appear  to  be  very  poorly  wooded.  The 
largest  and  most  abundant  are  the  cocoanut-trees,  but  the  inhabitants 
are  badly  supplied  with  fruits.  They  have  some  small  plantations  of 
tarrer,  and  some  oijier  roots,  which  they  use  as  a  substitute  for  bread. 
The  natives  are  much  like  those  of  Bergh's  Group,  both  in  personal 
appearance  and  manners  ;  their  canoes  are  also  similar.  As  there  are 
no  refreshments  nor  any  articles  of  trade  to  be  had  here,  I  would  ad- 
vise all  merchant-ships  to  keep  clear  of  this  group,  on  account  of  the 
reef  and  dangers,  and  the  strong  current  which  sets  between  them,  and 
also  because  the  natives  are  very  hostile  and  treacherous. 

May  IStk. — On  Thursday,  the  13th,  we  passed  close  in  with  the 
■west  side  of  Bergh's  Group,  and  had  a  visit  from  our  former  acquaint- 
ances, "who  instantly  knew  the  Antarctic,  and  appeared  very  glad  to 
see  us.  They  brought  with  them  a  plenty  of  bread-fruit  and  cocoanuts, 
and  a  number  of  their  countrymen  who  had  not  ventured  on  board  at 
our  former  visit.  They  all  expressed  much  anxiety  for  the  vessel  to 
enter  within  the  reef  again,  and  come  to  anchor,  so  that  all  their 
countrymen  might  have  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  tlie  wonders  re- 
ported to  them  by  the  more  venturous  few  who  had  been  on  board. 
But  the  wind  and  weather  being  favourable,  I  could  not  now  comply 
with  their  wishes  ;  but  made  them  all  some  presents  in  return  for  their 
hospitality,  and  then  they  reluctantly  took  their  leave,  w'hile  we  con- 
tinued on  our  course  to  the  south  and  east.  -  The  more  1  saw  of  these 
apparently  good-humoured,  simple  natives,  the  more  strongly  I  became 
interested  in  their  history,  character,  &;c. 

May  I'ith. — On  the  following  day  we  discovered  three  small  low 
islands,  being  each  from  three  to  five  miles  in  circumference,  and 
almost  entirely  covered  with  cocoanut  and  bread-fruit  trees.    They  are 


May.]  YOUNG  WILLIAM'S  GROUP.  389 

well  inhabited  with  much  the  same  kind  of  people  as  the  western  part 
of  Bergh's  Group  ;  having  also  the  same  description  of  canoes,  war 
implements,  fishing  utensils,  and  wearing  apparel.  The  islands  are 
all  surrounded  and  connected  by  a  coral  reef.  They  furnish  biche-de^ 
mer^  pearls,  pearl  and  tortoise-shell,  and  many  curious  and  beautiful 
shells,  valuable  for  their  rarity .  These  islands  extend  about  ten  miles 
east  and  west,  and  about  five  miles  north  and  south ;  being  situated  in 
lat.  6°  4'  north,  long.  153^  21'  east ;  and  as  we  could  not  find  them  on 
any  chart,  or  see  them  mentioned  in  any  epitome  of  navigation,  we 
concluded  that  they  were  new  discoveries,  and  gave  them  the  name  of 
Skiddy's  Group,  in  honour  of  that  worthy  and  enterprising  navigator. 
t  May  \5th. — We  continued  steering  to  the  south  and  east,  with  the 
wind  from  east-north-east  and  east,  attended  with  squalls  of  rain ;  and 
on  Saturday  morning,  the  15th,  at  four,  A.  M.,  we  were  close  in  with 
Young  William's  Group,  the  centre  of  which  lies  in  latitude  5^  12'  N., 
long.  153^  27'  E.  This  group  is  nearly  circular,  extending  twenty 
miles  east  and  west,  and  eighteen  miles  north  and  south ;  the  whole 
surrounded  by  a  coral  reef,  from  one-fourth  of  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a 
half  wide.  On  the  inner  edge  of  this  reef  there  is  a  chain  of  low 
islands,  eleven  in  number,  the  principal  of  which  are  well  inhabited. 
There  are  many  small  islands,  or  lumps,  that  stand  on  this  reef,  which 
are  covered  with  cocoanut-trees,  but  are  not  inhabited. 

All  of  the  islands  are  well  supplied  with  bread-fruit  and  cocoanut- 
trees,  plantains,  and  bananas ;  they  are  also  well  supplied  with  wood 
and  water.  Two  of  the  islands  are  about  fifteen  miles  in  circuit,  and 
about  one  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  in  their  most  elevated 
parts.  These  islands  are  all  of  volcanic  origin.  The  lagoon  within 
the  reef  contains  pearls,  pearl-shell,  and  many  other  valuable  shells  of 
the  pearl  kind ;  while  the  reef  contains  bichc-de-mer,  and  the  hawk's-bill 
tortoise. 

While  I  was  examining  the  reef  on  the  west  side  of  the  group,  I  was 
met  by  many  of  the  natives  in  their  canoes,  who  requested  me  to  land 
on  a  small  island  about  two  miles  farther  south.  It  being  in  the  early 
part  of  the  day,  the  weather  fine,  and  the  vessel  under  the  lee  of  the 
reef,  in  perfect  smooth  water,  I  signified  a  compliance  with  their  wishes, 
and  steered  the  boat  to  the  point  proposed,  followed  by  the  islanders 
in  their  canoes.  On  approaching  the  beach,  I  saw  some  of  the  in- 
habitants, who  had  been  gazing  at  us  from  behind  a  clump  of  trees 
near  the  cabins,  make  a  precipitate  retreat  into  the  woods.  The  natives 
in  the  canoes  soon  landed,  at  some  distance  from  our  boat ;  and  while 
a  part  of  their  number  remained  on  the  beach,  the  rest  proceeded 
to  join  the  fugitives  in  the  woods.  These  movements  looked  sus- 
picious ;  but  I  was  too  well  armed  and  prepared  to  fear  the  result  of 
treachery,  having  a  brace  of  pistols  and  a  cutlass. 

I  left  my  men  in  the  boat,  with  orders  to  keep  her  afloat,  and  as 
nearly  abreast  of  me  as  possible.  I  then  walked  confidently  up  to  the 
five  natives  remaining  on  the  beach,  who  timidly  advanced  to  meet  me, 
and  I  soon  perceived  that  they  were  unarmed.  When  we  had  ap- 
proached to  within  about  twelve  yards  of  each  other,  they  all  made  a 
full  stop  for  several  minutes.     At  length  one  of  them,  who  appeared 


390  INTERCOURSE  WITH  THE  NATIVES.  [183^^ 

to  be  the  eldest  of  the  group,  stepped  on  one  side  to  a  small  tree  which 
grew  near  the  beach,  and  broke  off  a  small  branch,  which  he  held  up 
to  view.  I  immediately  imitated  his  example,  and  reciprocated  his 
proffer  of  amity,  if  for  such  it  was  intended.  As  I  advanced  to  make 
the  exchange,  he  at  first  drew  timidly  back ;  but  after  being  joined  by 
a  female  who  had  been  watching  our  movements  from  a  short  distance, 
and  who  was  probably  his  wife,  the  treaty  of  amity  Mas  duly  ratified, 
and  sealed  by  his  making  me  a  present  of  his  tapper,  or  waist-cloth. 
His  wife  then  gave  me  a  little  garland  of  wild  flowers  she  had  been 
braiding ;  and  as  if  this  had  been  a  preconcerted  signal,  two  lovely 
females,  naked  as  they  were  born,  darted  from  a  neighbouring  thicket, 
each  with  a  similar  token  of  affection,  which  they  offered  with  the  most 
bewitching  grace  conceivable.  Heaven  forgive  me,  if  my  wicked  heart 
did  violence  to  any  one  precept  of  the  decalogue ! 

These  girls  were  about  sixteen  or  seventeen,  with  eyes  like  the  ga- 
zelle's, teeth  like  ivory,  and  the  most  delicately  formed  features  I  have 
ever  met  %vith.  In  stature  they  were  about  five  feet,  with  small  hands, 
ieet,  and  head,  long  black  hair,  and  then  those  eyes,  sparkling  like  jet 
beads  swimming  in  liquid  enamel !  They  had  small  plump  cheeks, 
•with  a  chin  to  match,  and  lips  of  just  the  proper  thickness  for  affec- 
tion's kiss.  Their  necks  were  small,  and  I  believe  that  I  could  have 
spanned  £ither  of  their  naked  waists  with  both  my  hands.  Their  hmbs 
were  beautifully  proportioned,  and  so  were  their  busts.  Imagination 
must  complete  the  bewitching  portraits :  I  will  only  add  the  shade — 
their  skin  was  a  light  copper  colour. 

I  placed  the  wreaths  they  gave  me  onmy  own  head,  which  appeared 
to  please  them  very  much,  and  to  increase  their  confidence.  I  ac- 
companied them  and  their  friends  to  the  village,  where  we  were  met 
by  about  one  hundred  natives,  men,  women,  and  children.  Here  I  re- 
ceived several  similar  tokens  from  other  females ;  and  in  return  made 
them  presents  of  a  few  beads  and  some  small  pieces  of  an  iron-hoop, 
"with  which  they  seemed  to  be  highly  delighted.  There  were  several 
elderly  men  and  women  among  them,  some  of  whom  I  should  take  to 
be  ninety  or  a  hundred  years  of  age. 

The  men  were  all  unarmed,  and  appeared  to  be  very  friendly.  They 
are  straight,  active,  muscular,  and  well-made,  with  an  average  height 
of  about  five  feet  nine  inches.  Most  of  them  wear  a  tapper  round 
their  loins,  which  reaches  about  half-way  to  the  knees,  and  is  made 
from  the  bark  of  a  tree.  The  married  M^omen  wear  the  same  modest 
covering,  highly  ornamented  in  front  with  feathers  and  shells  ;  but  the 
unmarried  women  expose  all  their  charms,  being,  "  when  unadorned, 
adorned  the  most."  They  sport  in  the  surf,  as  if  the  water  was  their 
natural  element. 

The  cabins  or  cottages  of  these  islanders  consist  of  a  roof  made  of 
bamboos,  and  thatched  with  cocoanut-leaves,  placed  upon  four  posts. 
Under  this  roof  they  have  a  platform,  elevated  about  two  feet  from  the 
ground  ;  being  a  frame  of  bamboo,  which  is  covered  with  mats.  This 
constitutes  a  very  clean  and  cool  place  for  sleeping. 

After  remaining  with  these  people  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour, 
giving  them  the  seeds  of  useful  vegetables,  and  showing  their  use,  the 


>Iay.]  TREACHEEY  DEFEATED.  39  ^ 

young  women  invited  me  to  accompany  them  to  the  other  side  of  the 
island,  where  they  said  they  would  get  me  some  turtle-shell  and  pearl- 
shell.  Before  I  had  advanced  far  in  the  forest,  however,  I  saw  about 
forty  Indians  at  the  distance  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  armed  with  bows 
and  arrows ;  and  evincing  a  strong  disposition  to  conceal  themselves, 
by  skulking  behind  trees  and  brushwood.  I  was  now  fully  satisfied 
that  all  their  pretended  friendship  was  treachery,  and  immediately, 
turned  for  the  beach,  telling  the  chief  that  I  wished  to  go  to  my  boat 
and  get  some  beads  and  iron  for  him,  and  take  the  boat's  crew  with  me 
on  the  other  side  of  the  island. 

This  proposition  seemed  to  please  them  very  much,  and  they  all 
turned  to  accompany  me.  I  kept  the  chief  alongside  of  me,  with  my 
right  hand  on  a  pistol.  As  soon  as  we  came  whhin  hail  of  the  boat,  I 
found  that  she  was  lying  close  in  at  the  edge  of  the  surf,  where  my 
men  were  waiting  for  me  with  straining  eyes  and  anxious  hearts.  I 
ordered  them  to  back  as  near  the  surf  as  possible,  and  the  moment' 
they  saw  me  within  a  few  feet  of  the  water,  to  fire  a  musket  over  my 
head.  My  orders  were  promptly  obeyed,  and  the  terrified  natives  all- 
fell  to  the  earth.  In  the  midst  of  their  confusion,  I  dived  through  the 
surf,  and  was  soon  in  the  boat,  while  the  oarsmen  gave  way  with  all 
their  strength. 

We  had  scarcely  left  the  beach  fifty  yards  behind  us,  before  it  was 
covered  with  about  three  hundred  well  armed  warriors.  I  fired  a  musket 
over  their  heads,  which  frightened  the  most  of  them  down  upon  their 
haunches  ;  and  before  they  could  recover  a  warrior's  proper  position, 
we  were  out  of  bow-shot.  What  object  they  could  have  had  in  view 
in  this  evidently  preconcerted  act  of  perfidy  I  am  at  a  loss  to  know, 
unless  they  thought  that  my  death  or  captivity  would  lead  to  the  taking 
of  the  Antarctic.  I  am  sure  that  my  motives  were  correct,  and  Heaven 
ever  protects  those  who  jeopard  their  safety  for  the  benefit  of  their 
fellow-creatures.  I  had  always  evinced  the  most  friendly  disposition 
to  this  people,  having  supplied  them  with  seeds  of  various  kinds,  and 
instructed  them  how  to  plant  and  cultivate  them. 

Having  made  a  sufficient  distance  from  the  island,  I  changed  the 
course  of  the  boat,  and  steered  towards  the  south,  making  a  signal  for 
the  schooner  to  keep  close  in-shore,  abreast  of  the  boat,  which  could 
be  done  with  safety,  as  the  water  was  bold  to  the  very  edge  of  the  reef,, 
and  the  wind  was  oflf-shore,  or  from  the  north-east.  We  had  not  ])ro- 
ceeded  far,  however,  before  we  saw  about  one  hundred  canoes  coming 
towards  us  from  all  the  islands.  We  were  now  reduced  to  this  alterna- 
tive— either  to  enter  into  "  the  unprolitable  contest  of  seeing  which 
could  do  the  other  the  most  harm,"  or  show  them  the  Antarctic's  stern, 
and  leave  the  islands  thus  partially  examined.  We  adopted  the  most 
humane  course. 

May  I6th. — On  Sunday,  the  16th,  at  six,  P.  M.,  (nautical  time)  we 
left  Young  William's  Group,  and  steered  to  the  east,  a  little  southerly, 
with  a  light  breeze  from  north-north-east,  and  fair  weather ;  and  on  the 
following  morning,  at  four,  A.  M.,  we  were  close  in  with  the  islands 
of  Monteverdeson's.  This  group,  which  is  situated  in  latitude  3°  3a' 
'  N.,  long.  155°  58'  E.,  was  discovered  in  the  Spanish  frigate  La  Pala. 


392  MONTE VEKDE.SON'S  GROUP— THE  NATIYEb.        [1830. 

belonging  to  llie  Pliilippine  Company,  commanded  by  Don  Juan  Bap- 
liste  Monteverde,  in  her  passage  from  Manilla  to  Lima,  on  the  18th  of 
February,  1806. 

This  group  is  nearly  circular,  and  contains  about  tliirty  islands,  of 
different  sizes,  the  largest  being  not  more  than  ten  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence. They  are  all  surrounded  by  a  coral  reef,  whicii  lias  from  three  to 
seven  feet  of  water  on  it,  where  the  sea  breaks  very  heavily  all  the  year 
round.  The  islands  all  stand  on  the  inner  edge  of  the  coral  reef,  with 
boat-passages  between  them,  from  one-fourth  of  a  mile  to  two  miles 
in  width ;  thus  following  the  circle  of  the  reef  all  round,  leaving  in  the 
centre  a  large  lagoon  about  seven  leagues  in  length,  from  north-east 
to  south-west,  and  about  five  leagues  from  north-west  to  south-east. 

The  bottom  of  this  lagoon  is  literally  covered  with  the  pearl  oyster, 
in  a  depth  of  water  from  three  to  twenty  fathoms  ;  and  the  surrounding 
reef  abounds  with  hiche-de-mcr  of  a  very  superior  quality.  The  hawk's- 
bill  turtle  also  visits  the  shores  of  the  islands  at  certain  seasons  of  the 
year,  for  the  purpose  of  laying  their  eggs  and  raising  their  young. 
Upon  all  these  articles  the  natives  set  little  or  no  value. 

These  islands  are  all  very  low,  the  most  elevated  points  of  them 
not  rising  more  than  one  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
surface  of  each  is  literally  covered  with  cocoanut-trees,  bread-fruit  trees, 
and  palm-trees  ;  besides  many  other  kinds  of  wood  that  is  highly  useful 
to  the  islanders  in  the  construction  of  their  canoes,  houses,  and  war 
implements. 

The  natives  are  tall,  well  made,  robust,  and  active.  Their  average 
stature,  I  mean  that  of  the  men,  is  six  feet  two  inches,  and  few  of  them 
weigh  less  than  two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds.  They  are  of  an  olive 
colour,  with  rather  flattish  noses,  black  curled  hair,  of  six  or  eight 
inches  in  length,  high  cheek-bones,  small  black  eyes,  very  quick  and 
penetrating,  high  prominent  foreheads,  a  beautiful  white  and  regular 
set  of  teeth.  Their  hands  and  feet  are  small,  in  proportion  to  the  size 
of  the  body  and  limbs.  Their  bodies  are  very  round  and  straight, 
v/ith  full  chests,  and  square  broad  shoulders.  In  short,  they  are  as 
fine  models  for  the  sculptor  or  painter  as  I  have  ever  met  with. 

The  females  are  about  five  feet  three  inches  in  height,  with  slen- 
der bodies,  round  and  plump  as  an  apple.  Their  countenance  is 
pleasing  and  interesting,  and  their  sparkling  black  eyes  irresistibly 
fascinating.  They  are,  in  short,  in  every  respect  equal,  and  in  some 
superior,  to  the  females  of  Young  William's  Group. 

The  dress  of  both  sexes,  after  marriage,  is  alike  ;  consisting  of  a 
simple  tapper  around  the  loins,  descending  half-way  to  the  knees ;  that 
of  the  female  being  ornamented  like  those  of  Young  William's  Group. 
The  unman'ied  go  entirely  naked,  showing  their  finely-modelled  limbs 
to  the  best  advantage.  Both  sexes  take  to  the  water  at  a  very  early  age, 
and  soon  become  almost  as  much  habituated  to  it  as  the  amphibia  of 
the  Gallipagos  Islands.  Their  canoes  and  war  implements  are  similar 
to  those  of  the  other  group,  only  much  larger. 

When  these  people  first  came  alongside  the  Antarctic,  they  gave  the 
crew  cocoanuts  and  bread-fruit,  without  asking  any  thing  in  return ; 
but  it  was  some  time  before  any  of  them  could  be  prevailed  upon  to 


May.]      ATTEMPT  TO  BOARD  THE  AXTARCTIC.       393 

come  on  board.  The  crew  in  return  distributed  among  them  old  knives, 
beads,  iron  hoops,  and  many  other  little  articles.  This  liberality  ex- 
cited such  sensations  in  the  natives  as  induced  them  to  strip  their 
Canoes  of  their  fishing-lines,  hooks,  nets,  cocoanuts,  &c.,  which  they 
offered  as  objects  of  barter;  they  also  gave  their  large  hats,  made  of 
palm-leaves,  as  well  as  the  tappers  from  their  loins.  Both  sexes 
stripped  off  the  only  article  which  covered  their  nakedness,  and  freely 
gave  it  for  a  few  glass  beads. 

Even  yet  they  appeared  not  to  be  contented  with  the  sacrifices  they 
had  made,  but  gave  me  to  understand  that  they  M'ould  return  to  the 
island,  and  collect  pearl-shell,  tortoise-shell,  and  hiche-de-mer,  if  we 
would  run  the  schooner  close  in  with  the  lee-side  of  the  island.  To 
this  proposition  I  readily  signified  my  assent,  and  they  with  child-like 
alacrity  paddled  swiftly  to  the  shore. 

By  the  time  that  they  had  landed,  the  Antarctic  was  within  about  a 
mile  of  the  beach,  on  M'hich  were  lying  fifty  canoes  of  the  largest  size, 
being  about  thirty-five  feet  in  length,  and  very  buoyant.  We  con- 
tinued to  watch  their  movements  with  our  glasses,  and  soon  had  cause 
for  some  startling  suspicions.  Instead  of  loading  their  canoes  with 
the  valuable  articles  they  promised,  we  saw  about  five  hundred  men 
bearing  to  them  back-loads  of  spears  and  war-clubs.  In  addition  to 
this,  they  had  all  daubed  their  faces  v.-ith  red  paint,  a  certain  indication 
of  hostile  intentions  among  the  islanders  of  these  seas. 

In  a  few  moments  these  warlike  preparations  were  completed,  and 
the  canoes  afloat  and  manned  with  fifteen  to  twenty  men  each,  coming 
rapidly  towards  the  vessel,  propelled  by  paddles  at  the  rate  of  eight 
miles  an  hour.  This  formidable  flotilla  advanced  in  two  divisions,  ap- 
parently with  the  intention  of  boarding  us  on  both  sides.  Having  a 
fine  breeze  from  north-north-east,  we  lay-to,  until  they  had  approached 
within  one-third  of  a  mile  of  the  vessel ;  we  then  filled  away,  with  the 
wind  abaft  of  the  beam  ;  and  in  a  few  minutes  more  the  Antarctic  took 
np  her  feet,  and  slid  over  the  briny  ocean,  with  her  stern  to  these  treach- 
erous savages,  at  the  rate  of  ten  miles  an  hour. 

This  was  the  only  step  we  could  have  taken  to  avoid  slaughtering 
these  ignorant,  misguided  people ;  who  were  not  yet  willing  to  relin- 
quish their  rash  adventure,  but  continued  to  follow  the  vessel  for  more 
than  four  miles,  when  they  gave  up  the  chase,  and  turned  towards 
the  islands.  No  doubt  this  system  of  treachery,  which  prevails,  or 
did  once  prevail,  on  every  inhabited  island  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  is  a 
part  of  their  education.  They  sin  without  the  law,  and  should  be 
judged  without  the  laAV.  Knowing,  as  I  do,  that  there  are  many 
callinsr  themselves  Christians,  who  could  not  "  cast  the  first  stone"  at 
these  untutored  children  of  nature,  I  could  not  find  it  in  my  heart  to 
throw  cold  iron  and  lead  among  them.  If  they  enjoyed  the  blessing 
of  missionary  teachers,  but  few  years  M'ould  elapse  before  the  natives 
of  all  these  groups  of  islands  would  become  as  exemplary  for  honesty, 
fidelity,  and  hospitality  as  those  of  the  Sandwich,  Friendly,  and  So- 
ciety Islands.  Let  our  missionary  societies  look  to  this  :  here  is  a 
wide  field  open  for  their  pious  and  philanthropic  labours  ;  a  field  which 


394  STRONG  CURRENTS— MASSACRE  ISL.\NDS.        [1830. 

is  ripe  for  the  harvest,  and  which  would  make  returns  of  a  thousand- 
fold, both  in  a  moral  and  commercial  point  of  view. 

From  Monieverdeson's  Group  we  steered  to  the  south-east,  with  a 
iine  breeze  and  cloudy  weather.  During  the  night  we  had  the  wind 
from  all  points  of  the  compass,  accompanied  with  thunder  and  light- 
ning, squalls  of  wind,  and  heavy  falls  of  rain.  At  the  same  time  v/e 
noticed,  in  the  wake  of  the  vessel,  besides  the  usual  phosphorescent 
appearance  of  the  sea,  some  ver}'  brilliant  coruscations,  evidently  pro- 
ceeding from  myriads  of  mollusca,*  many  of  which  we  caught  and 
examined,  and  found  them  to  be  different  from  any  that  we  had  ever 
seen.  The  only  indication  of  life  which  they  manifested  was  a  slight 
degree  of  swelling  when  molested^;  they  were  generally  about  an 
inch  in  thickness,  and  from  three  to  five  inches  in  length,  enclosed  in  a 
kind  of  covering  or  outer  skin,  of  a  yellowish  colour,  and  almost  trans- 
parent. 

Mat/  21  St. — On  the  morning  of  Friday,  the  21st  of  May,  at  four, 
A.  M.,  we  crossed  the  equator,  in  long.  160°  11'  E.  On  discovering, 
by  astronomical  observations  and  by  chronometer,  that  for  the  last  two 
days  we  had  not  made  the  easting  which  the  log  gave  us  by  eighty-four 
miles,  and  it  being  quite  calm,  we  lowered  the  waist-boat,  and  tried  the 
current,  which  we  found  setting  west-by-north,  at  the  rate  of  two  and 
a  quarter  miles  an  hour. 

On  the  following  day,  Saturday,  the  22d,  being  in  lat.  2°  4'  S.,  long. 
158°  27'  E.,  we  found  the  current  setting  west-half-north,  two  and  a 
half  miles  an  hour.  We  this  day  took  the  wind  from  east-south-east. 
On  Sunday,  the  23d,  we  found  the  current  setting  to  the  west-by- 
iiorth  half-north,  three  miles  and  a  quarter  an  hour.  On  Monday,  the 
24th,  we  obtained  several  sights  for  the  chronometer  during  the  after- 
noon, which  told  us  the  strength  of  the  current  had  increased  to  nearly 
four  miles  an  hour. 

May  2itli. — To  satisfy  ourselves  of  the  accuracy  of  the  chronome- 
ter, at  sunset  we  lowered  one  of  the  waist-boats  to  try  the  current, 
which  we  found  setting  nearly  west-by-north,  more  than  three  miles 
and  three-quarters  an  hour.  We  now  had  a  seven-knot  breeze  from 
east-south-east ;  and  finding  it  to  be  impossible  to  pass  to  the  eastward 
of  Solomon's  archipelago,  on  account  of  the  strength  of  the  currents, 
I  determined  on  passing  through  Bougainville's  Strait,  after  examining 
the  Ontong  Java  Group.  But  on  finding  ourselves  exactly  in  the 
situation  assigned  to  these  islands,  at  nine,  P.  ]M.,  we  bore  up,  and 
ran  to  the  west,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  east-south-east,  and  fair 
weather. 

At  half-past  eleven,  the  man  on  the  top-gallant  yard  saw  land  and 
breakers  at  the  same  time.  We  immediately  hauled  on  a  wind  to  the 
south,  and  at  three,  A.  M.,  we  tacked,  and  stood  in  for  the  land  which 
had  been  announced.  At  six,  A.  M.,  we  were  close  in  with  a  group 
of  small  low  islands  that  appeared  to  be  entirely  surrounded  by  a  coral 
reef,  with  the  exception  of  two  narrow  openings,  neither  of  which  was 

*  Mollusca.— An  order  of  animals  under  the  class  ver7nes,  in  the  Linnaean  system,  comprehend- 
ing naked  simple  animals,  not  included  in  a  shell,  but  lumisbed  with  limt>6,  as  the  elof,  sWr-tBb> 
cuttle-fish,  sea-urchin,  &c. — Family  Encydopcedia. 


May.]  VISIT  FROM  THE  NATIVES.  395 

more  than  a  hundred  yards  in  widtli,  nor  had  a  greater  depth  of  water 
than  three  fathoms. 

We  ran  close  in  with  the  easternmost  of  these  openings  or  passages, 
on  the  south  side  of  the  group,  and  at  eight,  A.  M.,  sent  in  the  boats-, 
well  armed,  to  examine  the  reef.  At  ten,  A.  M.,  the  boats  returned, 
\vith  the  encouraging  information  that  the  reef  was  literally  covered 
with  bichc-de-mer^  of  the  Jirst  and  second  quality,  several  specimens 
of  which  they  brought  on  board  with  them.  The  passage  which  led 
to  the  lagoon  within  the  reef  was  immediately  sounded,  and  found  to 
be  safe  and  easy.  I  therefore  determined  to  enter  the  lagoon,  bring  the 
Antarctic  to  anchor,  and,  if  possible,  procure  a  cargo  at  this  place. 

This  resolution  we  immediately  proceeded  to  carry  into  effect ;  and 
at  half-past  eleven,  A.  ]M.,  were  within  the  reef,  and  steering  for  the 
windward  side  of  the  lagoon,  which  we  reached  on  Tuesday,  the  25th-, 
and  at  three,  P.  M.,  came  to  anchor  within  one  mile  of  a  small  island 
on  the  north-east  side  of  the  group,  in  fifteen  fathoms  of  water,  over  a 
coral  bottom.  Here  we  were  completely  sheltered  from  all  points  of 
the  compass,  in  perfectly  smooth  water,  it  being  impossible  for  any 
swell  to  enter  the  lagoon  within  the  reef  from  the  seaboard.  This 
anchorage  is  in  lat.  4°  50'  30"  S.,  long.  156°  10'  30"  E. 

Mai/  25th.— As  soon  as  the  Antarctic  was  moored  and  the  sails 
furled,  the  natives,  nearly  as  dark-skinned  as  Africans,  and  almost 
totally  naked,  began  to  assemble  round  her,  at  a  respectful  distance,  in 
their  light  canoes,  evincing  the  usual  symptoms  of  curiosity,  wonder, 
and  timidity.  They  came  within  about  a  hundred  yards  of  the  vessel, 
and  then  lay  on  their  oars,  or  rather  paddles,  as  if  afraid  to  approach 
any  nearer.  On  observing  this  I  displayed  a  white  flag,  as  a  token  of 
amity  on  our  part,  and  held  up  to  their  view  several  strings  of  beads, 
and  other  articles  which  glittered  in  the  sun.  This  finally  induced 
them  to  venture  alongside,  when  they  appeared  to  be  struck  with  as- 
tonishment  and  awe,  on  surveying  the  vessel's  hull,  spars,  riggmg,  *fcc. 
But  nothing,  for  some  time,  would  induce  them  to  ascend  her  side. 
.  I  soon  distinguished  one  among  their  number,  whom  I  set  down  as  a 
chief  or  ruler ;  and  whom,  for  the  want  of  a  more  appropriate  name,  I 
shall  call  Nero.  He  was  most  splendidly,  or  rather  fantastically,  orna- 
mented with  rows  of  shells  and  wreaths  of  flowers,  about  his  ebony 
head,  neck,  and  waist ;  while  his  arms  and  legs  were  adorned  with 
rings  or  bracelets  of  the  richest  tortoise-shell.  After  a  long  time,  I 
succeeded  in  persuading  him,  with  a  few  of  his  followers,  to  venture 
on  board ;  but  not  without  considerable  doubt  and  hesitancy  on  their 
part.  But  who  can  accurately  depict  their  astonishment  when  they 
first  stepped  upon  deck!  They  seemed  to  be  struck  dumb  and 
stupid  with  amazement ;  nor  would  they  advance  a  step  from  the 
gangway,  until  I  took  Nero  by  the  arm,  and  with  due  demonstrations 
of  courtesy  led  him  aft. 

t  A  little  reassured  by  the  friendliness  of  my  deportment,  and  the  cor- 
diality of  his  reception,  he  began,  by  degrees,  to  recover  from  his  as- 
tonishment, and  to  become  curiously  inquisitive.  He  examined,  in 
rapid  succession,  the  masts,  rigging,  sails,  deck,  hatches,  pump,  bin- 
acle,  cables,  anchors,  whale-boats,  and  every  thing  that  met  his  eye  ; 


r 


ace  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  [1830. 

flying  from  one  object  to  another,  feeling  them  with  both  hands,  in- 
quiring tlie  use  of  ever}^  thing,  but  never  waiting  for  an  answer,  imme- 
diately laying  hold  of  something  else.  He  at  last  jumped  about  the 
deck  like  a  madman,  alternately  laughing  and  uttering  exclamations  of 
astonishment.  When  any  thing  struck  him  in  a  peculiar  manner,  he 
would  instantly  cry  out  "  Rett — sttUcr  /"  signifying  fine  !  His  sable 
attendants  also  took  great  interest  in  the  objects  around  them ;  but  did 
not  presume  to  give  their  feelings  utterance  in  the  presence  of  their 
chiel',  who  ultimately  proved  to  be  the  grand  chief,  or  emperor  of  the 
whole  group. 

1  invited  Nero  to  descend  with  me  into  the  cabin  ;  but  he  declined, 
until  three  of  his  people  should  have  first  tried  the  hazardous  experi- 
ment, and  gave  his  orders  accordingly,  which  they  obeyed  with  evi- 
dent reluctance,  descending  the  stairs  after  me  with  the  greatest  cau- 
tion and  timidity.  Their  feet  had  scarcely  touched  the  floor,  however, 
when  their  fears  gave  place  to  surprise  and  admiration,  at  the  great 
number  of  shining  muskets,  bright  brass-barrelled  pistols,  and  glittering 
cutlasses,  which  decorated  almost  every  part  of  the  cabin.  They 
covered  their  dazzled  eyes  with  their  hands,  and  exclaimed  Rett — 
StiUcr  I  which  was  instantly  echoed  by  their  companions  on  deck.  I 
then  showed  them  a  mirror,  which  at  first  struck  them  with  terror ; 
so  that  for  some  minutes  they  seemed  bewildered  with  astonish- 
ment, gazing  alternately  at  each  other,  and  at  the  image  in  the  glass : 
but  as  soon  as  they  recognised  their  own  ebony  features,  they  embraced 
each  other,  made  the  most  ridiculous  grimaces,  laughed  immoderately, 
and  shouted  with  joy. 

Nero,  on  hearing  this,  could  no  longer  resist  his  own  desire  and  their 
solicitations  for  him  to  descend,  and  with  one  leap  he  was  in  the  cabin  ; 
on  looking  around  which,  his  exclamations  of  surprise  and  pleasure 
surpassed  all  bounds.  Indeed,  they  all  looked  and  acted  like  wild, 
frantic  children,  although  more  than  one  of  them  bore  evident  marks 
of  old  age. 

On  our  returning  to  the  deck,  we  found  several  more  canoes  along- 
side, with  natives  equally  dark  and  naked,  from  the  other  islands,  who 
appeared  incredulous  to  the  marvellous  stories  which  their  friends  on 
board  were  telling  them ;  but  they  were  soon  convinced,  by  ocular 
demonstration,  that  "the  half  was  not  told"  them.  They  were  then 
shown  the  cook's  house,  and  oifered  some  bread  and  meat,  but  de- 
clined tasting  it,  with  an  expression  of  some  feeling  analogous  to 
loathing. 

The  guns  next  excited  the  attention  of  the  sable  chief,  who  ex- 
pressed great  solicitude  to  know  their  nature  and  use ;  but  it  was 
neither  convenient  nor  politic  at  that  time  to  gratify  his  curiosity  on 
this  subject.  I  took  a  little  powder,  however,  and  flashed  it  before 
them  on  the  deck,  which  so  terrified  them  that  they  fell  flat  on  their 
faces.  On  finding  themselves  unhurt,  they  soon  recovered  their  feet 
and  their  composure,  and  intimated  that  I  must  possess  the  power 
of  making  thunder  and  lightning,  which  sometimes  teiTified  them  in 
the  clouds. 

When  their  curiosity  had  at  length  become  somewhat  gratified,  and 


May.]  THE  XATIYES.  397 

the  ardour  of  excitement  had  subsided,  I  distributed  a  lew  presents  to 
Nero  and  his  principal  attendants,  for  which  they  expressed  no  Uttle 
gratitude.  Nero  scorned  to  be  outdone.in  acts  of  civihty,  and  there- 
fore sent  off  the  canoes  immediately  ashore,  which  soon  returned, 
loaded  with  cocoanuts  and  other  fruits,  which  he  begged  me  to  accept. 
I  then,  at  his  request,  accompanied  him  on  shore,  in  his  own  canoe, 
while  Mr.  Wallace  followed  me  in  the  Antarctic's  boat,  well  manned 
and  armed. 

On  reaching  the  island,  Nero  conducted  us  to  his  house,  as  we  then 
understood  it  to  be,  which  was  only  distinguished  from  the  others  by 
its  superior  size  and  capacity.  Here  we  partook  of  refreshments, 
consisting  of  various  sorts  of  fruits  and  fish,  which  we  found  very 
palatable.  We  were  seated  on  mats,  with  which  the  floor  was  covered, 
while  the  rest  of  the  chiefs,  with  some  very  pretty  women,  almost 
entirely  naked,  with  infants  in  their  arms,  formed  a  circle  around 
us ;  but  the  centre  point  of  attraction  was  evidently  myself,  they, 
no  doubt,  considering  me  as  the  chief  of  some  mighty  tribe  of  a  dis- 
tant island. 

Having  finished  our  repast,  I  presented  the  queen  with  a  pair  of  scis- 
sors, a  small  knife,  and  a  few  beads,  which  her  majesty  most  gra- 
ciously deigned  to  accept,  and  appeared  to  be  in  an  ecstasy  of  delight, 
especially  with  the  scissors,  of  which  I  quickly  taught  her  the  use. 
The  knife  and  the  scissors  excited  universal  admiration,  which  was 
quite  natural  in  a  group  of  beings  who  had  never  before  seen  a  piece 
of  iron  or  steel,  and  whose  best  tools  were  made  of  a  shell  or  apiece 
of  stone. 

The  sensation  which  these  treasures  produced  having  somewhat 
subsided,  their  curiosity  was  again  directed  to  my  goodly  person.  No 
one,  however,  whh  the  exception  of  King  Nero  himself,  ventured  to 
touch  me ;  and  he  performed  the  feat  with  as  much  tremulous  caution 
as  the  novice  evinces  when  for  the  first  time  he  apphes  a  lighted  match 
to  the  priming  of  a  cannon.  Having  satisfied  himself  that  I  was  con- 
structed of  bones  and  flesh,  like  his  own  race,  and  that  the  white  paint 
could  not  be  rubbed  ofl*  my  ebony  skin,  he  turned  to  his  chiefs  and 
counsellors  in  great  astonishment,  and  harangued  them  at  some  length, 
on  so  wonderful  a  phenomenon.  The  whole  company  listened  to  him 
with  less  reverence  than  amazement — remaining  motionless  as  statues, 
with  straining  eyes  and  gaping  mouths. 

His  majesty  then  desired  me  to  open  my  vest  and  shirt-bosom,  that 
he  might  try  the  same  test  on  the  colour  of  my  body ;  but  the  result 
only  increased  his  astonishment.  Everyone  of  the  men,  by  turns, 
now  approached,  and  satisfied  themselves  that  my  skin  was  neither  a 
white  well-fitted  garment,  nor  its  colour  the  efl'ect  of  artificial  means. 
But  not  one  of  the  females  would  venture  to  touch  my  bosom,  and  I 
was  inchned  to  attribute  this  shyness  more  to  modesty  and  feminine 
delicacy,  than  to  personal  fear. 

When  their  curiosity  had  been  sufficiently  satisfied  in  this  particular, 
I  was  presented  by  the  females  with  several  neat  rows  of  shells, 
which  they  took  off  iheir  necks,  arms,  and  legs,  and  put  them  on  my 
own.     This  act  of  courtesy  was  immediately  copied  by  the  chiefs,  who 


398  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  *  [1830. 

took  off  and  presented  their  feather  bonnets  or  chaplets,  which  were 
very  ingeniously  put  together,  and  tastefully  ornamented  with  red  coral. 
From  some  of  the  young  girls  I  received  several  neatly-worked  mats, 
which  they  gave  me  to  understand  were  intended  for  me  to  sleep  on. 

By  this  time  our  party  had  increased  to  about  fotir  hundred  natives ; 
when  suddenly,  to  my  great  surprise,  a  song  was  struck  up,  in  M'hi-ch 
they  all  joined  their  voices ;  old  and  young — men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren. From  the  manner  and  gestures  of  the  vocalists,  this  was  evi- 
dently addressed  to  me,  and  intended  as  an  expression  of  gratitude  for 
the  presents  they  had  received.  Taking  this  for  granted,  I  endeavoured 
by  appropriate  signs,  gestures,  bows,  and  smiles,  to  return  my  thanks 
for  the  compliment.  Politeness  is  a  universal  language,  and  is  in- 
stantly comprehended  and  appreciated  by  every  class  of  people,  from 
the  courtly  Frenchman  to  the  poor  despised  Hottentot. 

At  the  close  of  this  concert  I  gave  Nero  to  understand  that  I  wished 
to  take  a  view  of  the  island,  liud  requested  the  honour  of  his  company, 
to  which  he  cheerfully  assented,  taking  with  him  several  of  his  princi- 
pal courtiers,  of  both  sexes.  Six  men,  by  their  chiefs  direction,  walked 
on  before  us  as  guides  and  pioneers.  I  was  unarmed,  aware  that  the 
best  security  for  my  personal  safety  was  the  implicit  confidence  I  placed 
in  my  conductors,  who  certainly  appeared  to  be  the  most  harmless,  in- 
nocent, and  inoilensive  race  of  mortals  I  had  ever  met  with.  As  we 
proceeded  through  the  forest,  they  tried  ever}-  artifice  to  amuse  me, 
playing,  and  jumping,  and  running,  and  capering  about,  like  so  many 
*'  children,  just  let  loose  from  school." 

Every  thing  that  cam.e  under  my  observation,  during  this  excursion, 
wore  the  appearance  of  youth  and  freshness,  as  if  the  whole  island 
was  a  modern  creation.  All  the  trees  were  quite  young,  and  most  of 
the  fruit  trees  had  been  recently  planted.  In  passing  through  the  woods 
I  saw  some  plants  bearing  a  profusion  of  beautiful  red  blossoms,  which 
Nero  informed  me  were  cultivated  expressly  for  personal  ornaments. 
Near  the  centre  of  the  island,  my  attention  M-as  arrested  by  small  heaps 
of  coral,  piled  up  in  regular  rows,  with  only  footpaths  between  them, 
and  enclosed  with  a  kind  of  fence,  formed  by  pickets  or  stakes  driven 
into  the  earth.  This,  Nero  informed  me,  was  their  royal  bur}^ing- 
ground,  and  the  piles  of  coral  were  the  tombs.  None  but  chiefs  and 
warriors  of  distinction  were  buried  here,  or  permitted  to  pass  whhia 
the  fence.  The  bodies  of  the  common  people  were  thrown  into  the 
sea.     A  coral  tomb — the  maw  of  sharks  ! 

"While  I  was  meditating  on  the  distinctions  of  worldly  rank,  which 
extend  thus  down  to  the  very  dust,*'*  we  reached  the  south-west  point 
of  the  island,  where  I  selected  a  beautiful  spot  for  my  intended  pur- 
pose ;  which  was  to  erect  a  suitable  building  for  curing  biche-de-mer  ; 
for  miless  this  valuable  production  of  the  ocean  be  timely  and  properly 
cvred,  it  is  good  for  nothing.  I  selected  this  spot  as  being  convenient 
to  our  anchorage,  and  at  the  same  time  surrounded  by  the  necessary 
fuel,  of  an  excellent  quality.  I  had  contemplated  this  point  from  the 
Antarctic's  deck,  and  my  principal  object  in  going  on  shore  was  to  in- 

*  Waahingtoa  Irvi.jg, 


May.]  THE  NATIVES.  399 

spect  it  more  closely,  and  to  claim  permission  from  the  chief  and  his 
counsellors  to  prosecute  my  design. 

As  soon  as  Nero  was  able  to  comprehend  my  intentions  and  wishes, 
he  not  only  readily  granted  my  request,  but  even  promised  the  assistance 
of  his  people ;  and  it  was  agreed  that  the  work  should  be  commenced 
on  the  following  morning.  This  arrangement  being  completed,  and 
mutually  understood,  we  returned  to  the  village  by  a  nearer  route  than 
the  former  ;  and  at  about  7,  P.  M.,  I  parted  from  my  supposed  friends, 
who  had  accompanied  me  to  the  boat,  where  my  return  was  anxiously 
waited  for.  Before  we  shoved  off,  hov>'ever,  Nero  sent  us  some  more 
cocoanuts,  plantains,  bananas,  rutt-steller,  and  several  fine  fish  of  a 
very  good  size.  We  now  took  our  leave,  shoved  off,  and  were  soon 
on  board  the  Antarctic. 

Here  I  found  Mr.  Johnson,  the  first  officer, — Mr.  Hunt  having  left  us 
at  Manilla,  and  returned  to  America,  on  account  of  his  health, — who 
had  just  returned  from  examining  the  north  part  of  the  reef,  which  he 
found  covered  with  the  biche-de-mer,  of  a  very  large  size,  and  in  shal- 
low water.  He  also  brought  with  him  several  pearl-oysters ;  but  on  open- 
ing them  we  found  but  a  few  very  small  pearls,  of  but  little  or  no  value. 

We  now  turned-to  and  got  the  boarding-nettings  up,  set  quarter- 
Avatches,  and  retired  to  rest ;  congratulating  ourselves  and  each  other 
on  the  valuable  discovery  of  these  islands  with  their  inexhaustible  rich 
productions,  and  the  friendly  disposition  of  the  natives,  of  whose  per- 
sonal appearance  I  shall  now  attempt  to  give  a  brief  description. 

The  men,  in  height,  are  generally  about  six  feet,  and  well  propor- 
tioned, with  straight  bodies  and  full  chests ;  being  strong,  muscular, 
stout,  and  somewhat  portly,  but  extremely  active.  Their  limbs  are  well 
moulded  ;  and,  like  most  islanders  of  the  Pacific,  their  hands  and  feet 
are  small  in  proportion  to  other  parts  of  the  body.  Their  heads  are 
handsomely  shaped,  very  different  from  an  African's.  The  skin  of  both 
sexes  is  very  soft  and  delicate  to  the  touch,  and  not  quite  so  dark  in 
complexion  as  that  of  the  Madagascar  natives.  Their  hair  is  mod- 
erately crisped,  but  soft  and  silky,  and  much  longer  than  that  of  an 
African.  Their  eyes  are  large,  black,  lively,  and  brilliant,  beaming  be- 
neath a  prominent  forehead,  which  is  naturally  smooth  and  well  pro- 
portioned. Their  nose  is  finely  shaped ;  and  so  are  the  lips,  being 
moderately  thick,  and  just  parted  enough  to  display  two  rows  of  ivory^- 
sound,  even,  and  beautifully  set,  in  what  might  easily  be  mistaken  for 
red  coral  from  their  own  reef.  The  expression  of  their  countenance, 
however,  when  not  softened  by  pleasure,  or  distorted  by  mirth,  is  ex- 
tremely savage  and  ferocious,  combined  with  an  indication  of  firmness 
and  resolution.  They  are  extravagantly  tattooed  about  the  limbs,  chest, 
shoulders,  and  face ;  often  in  a  most  frightful  manner,  which  increases 
the  expression  of  ferocity  to  hideousness. 

The  women  are  nearly  as  large  as  the  men,  have  the  same  dark  com- 
plexion, and  are  equally  well  formed  ;  with  straight  backs,  exuberant 
chests,  slender  waists,  and  narrow  hips.  Their  limbs  are  beautifully 
proportioned,  and  the  formation  of  the  head  is  very  much  like  that  of 
our  fourth-blooded  mulattoes.  They  have  large  black  eyes,  small  round 
faces,  slender  necks,  and  exquisite  teeth,  of  the  purest  whiteness. 


400  '       MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  [1830^ 

With  respect  to  dress  but  little  can  be  said.  Some  of  them  wear 
tappers,  made  of  the  inner  bark  of  the  cocoanut-tree,  which  is  tied  round 
their  loins  like  an  apron,  and  reaches  about  half-way  down  to  the  knees. 
But  the  most  of  them,  of  both  sexes,  go  entirely  naked,  if  we  except 
their  ornaments,  which  consist  of  gaudy  feathers,  shells,  bones,  teeth 
of  fish,  &c.,  with  which  they  ornament  their  heads,  ears,  noses,  necks, 
arms,  wrists,  loins,  thighs,  legs,  and  ankles.  The  chiefs  are  distin- 
guished by  chaplets  of  red  feathers,  which  encircle  their  brows,  and 
wave  gracefully  in  the  breeze.  This  headdress,  when  inverted,  and 
applied  to  the  loins,  becomes  a  very  tasteful  tapper,  or  covering  for 
those  parts  which  nature  has  shown  a  desire  to  conceal,  ever  since 
the  first  tapper  of  fig-leaves  was  sewed  in  the  Garden  of  Eden. 

During  my  visit  on  shore,  I  saw  enough  of  their  war  implements  to 
convince  me  that  they  Avould  be,  in  case  of  hostilities,  very  formidable 
enemies.  These  consist  of  bows,  arrows,  spears,  war-clubs,  and  battle- 
axes.  The  bows  are  about  eight  feet  in  length,  being  made  of  the 
outer  part  of  the  cocoanut-tree  ;  they  are  light,  strong,  and  very  elastic. 
The  inner  bark  of  the  same  tree  furnishes  the  bowstrings.  The  arrows 
are  made  of  a  small  reed  that  grows  in  abundance  on  one  of  the  islands  ; 
it  being  very  straight,  and  about  the  thickness  of  a  lady's  ring-linger. 
These  fatal  shafts  are  about  five  feet  in  length,  and  pointed  with  hard 
wood. 

Their  spears  are  made  of  the  same  material  as  their  bows,  and  are 
about  sixteen  feet  in  length,  handsomely  tapered  off  to  a  point  at  each 
end,  elegantly  carved  in  the  centre,  and  finished  and  polished  with  so 
much  care  and  taste,  that  they  have  the  appearance  of  black  ebony. 
Their  war-clubs  are  also  made  of  the  same  material ;  and  are  four 
feet  in  length,  with  a  flat  blade  at  one  end,  five  inches  wide,  and  sharp 
edges.  The  other  end,  which  is  the  handle,  is  nearly  round,  and  just  large 
enough  to  fit  the  hand.  The  extremity  of  this  end  is  a  round  ball  or 
knob,  corresponding  to  the  pommel  of  a  sword,  on  which  are  carved 
the  head,  face,  and  features  of  a  ferocious  negro.  Their  battle-axes 
are  about  eighteen  inches  long,  with  one  end  just  large  enough  to  grasp 
conveniently  in  the  hand  ;  while  on  the  other  end  they  have  a  carved 
head,  the  size  of  a  cocoanut-shell,  representing  the  ferocious  aspect 
of  a  tattooed  warrior,  painted  for  the  battle. 

The  canoes  of  these  islanders  are  constructed  of  a  solid  log,  about 
twenty  feet  in  length,  two  feet  wide,  and  about  two  feet  in  depth.  They 
are  made  of  a  very  light  buoyant  wood,  something  like  the  cabbage- 
tree.  Their  paddles  are  four  feet  long,  and  six  inches  wide  at  the 
blade  ;  being  made  of  the  same  kind  of  wood  as  the  battle-axes,  which 
resembles  our  live  oak. 

Such  is  a  brief  description  of  the  people  (and  their  means  of  an- 
noying intruders)  among  which  we  had  now  fallen,  and  with  whose 
chief  I  had  entered  into  a  sort  of  treaty  of  amity  in  commerce,  with 
the  utmost  good  faith  on  my  part.  How  well  this  implied  contract  was 
fulfilled  on  the  part  of  his  sable  majesty  yet  remains  to  be  seen. 

In  concluding  this  chapter,  it  may  not  be  improper  to  give  the  reader 
a  clearer  idea  of  an  article  of  commerce  which  is  destined  to  make  a 
considerable  figure  in  this  narrative,  and  which  has  already  been  fre* 


May.]  BICHE-DE-MER.  401 

quently  mentioned — I  mean  liche-de-mer.  The  learned  and  scientific 
Doctor  Pascalis,  after  I  returned  from  this  my  fourth  voyage,  wrote  an 
article  for  the  public  papers,  in  which  he  describes  it  in  the  following 
words  : —  **"  ' 

"  It  is  that  mollusca  from  the  Indian  Seas  which  is  known  in  com- 
merce by  the  French  name  louche  dc  mer  (a  nice  morsel  from  the  sea). 
If  I  am  not  much  mistaken,  the  celebrated  Cu^ier  calls  it  gasteropeda 
pulmonifera.  It  is  abundantly  gathered  in  the  coasts  of  the  Pacific 
Islands,  and  gathered  especially  for  the  Chinese  market,  where  it  com- 
mands a  great  price,  perhaps  as  much  as  their  much-talked-of  '  edible 
birds'  nests,'  which  are  probably  made  up  of  the  gelatinous  matter 
picked  up  by  a  species  of  swallow  from  the  body  of  these  moUuscse. 
They  have  no  shell,  no  legs,  nor  any  prominent  part,  except  an  absorb- 
ing and  an  excretory,  opposite  organs  :  but  by  their  elastic  rings,  like 
caterpillars  or  worms,  they  creep  in  shallow  waters  ;  in  which,  when 
low,  they  can  be  seen  by  a  kind  of  swallow,  the  sharp  bill  of  which, 
inserted  in  the  soft  animal,  draws  a  gummy  and  filamentous  substance, 
which,  by  diying,  can  be  wrought  into  the  solid  walls  of  their  nest. 
Hence  the  name  of  gasteropeda  pulmonifera!''' 

This  mollusca  is  oblong,  and  of  different  sizes,  from  three  to  eighteen 
inches  in  length ;  and  I  have  seen  a  few  that  were  not  less  than  two  feet 
long.  They  are  nearly  round,  a  little  flattish  on  one  side,  which  lies 
next  the  ground,  or  bottom  of  the  sea ;  and  they  are  from  one  inch  to 
eight  inches  thick.  They  crawl  up  into  shallow  water  at  particular 
seasons  of  the  year,  probably  for  the  purpose  of  gendering,  as  we  often 
find  them  in  pairs.  It  is  when  the  sun  has  the  most  power  upon  the 
water,  rendering  it  tepid,  that  they  approach  the  shore  ;  and  often  into 
places  so  shallow,  that  on  the  tide's  receding  they  are  left  dry  on  the 
coral  reef,  exposed  to  the  heat  of  the  sun.  But  they  do  not  bring  forth 
their  young  in  shallow  water,  as  we  never  see  any  of  their  progeny ; 
and  the  full-grown  ones  are  always  seen  coming  in  from  deep  water. 
They  feed  principally  on  that  class  of  zoophytes  which  produce  the 
coral. 

The  biche-de-mer  is  generally  taken  in  three  or  four  feet  water; 
after  which  they  are  taken  to  the  shore,  where  they  are  split  at  one 
end  with  a  knife,  the  incision  being  one  inch  or  more,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  mollusca.  Through  this  opening  the  entrails  are  forced 
out  by  pressure,  and  they  are  much  like  those  of  any  other  small 
tenant  of  the  deep.  The  article  is  then  washed,  and  afterward  boiled 
to  a  certain  degree,  which  must  not  be  too  much  nor  too  little.  They 
are  then  buried  in  the  groimd  for  four  hours ;  then  boiled  again  for  a 
short  time,  after  which  they  are  dried,  either  by  the  fire  or  the  sun. 
Those  cured  by  the  sun  are  worth  the  most ;  but  where  one  picul 
(133^  lb.)  can  be  cured  that  way,  I  can  cure  thirty  picul  by  the 
fire.  When  once  properly  cured,  they  can  be  kept,  in  a  dry  place,  for 
two  or  three  years,  without  any  risk ;  but  they  should  be  examined 
once  iR  every  few  months,  say  four  times  a  year,  to  see  if  any  damp- 
ness is  likely  to  afiect  them.  A  picul,  according  to  the  Chinese 
weight,  is  I33i  lb.  avoirdupois. 

The  Chinese,  as  before  stated,  consider  biche-de-mer  a  very  great 


402  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  ^^k        [1830. 

luxury ;  believing  that  it  wonderfully  strengthens  and  noufishes  the 
system,  and  renews  the  exhausted  vigour  of  the  immoderate  volup- 
tuary. The  first  quality  commands  a  high  price  in  Canton,  being  worth 
ninety  dollars  a  picul ;  the  second  quality,  seventy-five  dollars;  the 
third,  fifty  dollars  ;  the  fourth,  thirty  dollars  ;  the  fifth,  twenty  dollars  ; 
the  sixth,  twelve  dollars  ;  the  seventh,  eight  dollars ;  and  the  eighth 
quality  only  four  dollars  per  picul.  Small  cargoes,  however,  will  often 
bring  more  in  Manilla,  Singapore,  and  Batavia. 

As  there  is  an  evident  afiinity  between  the  two  articles,  this  may 
not  be  an  improper  place  to  say  something  of  the  "  edible  birds'  nestSy"* 
already  mentioned  more  than  once  in  the  course  of  this  narrative. 
The  birds  which  construct  these  nests  are  a  species  of  swallow,  re- 
sembling, in  many  respects,  the  bank  or  cliff-swallows  of  our  own  sea- 
coast,  which  build  their  nests  in  the  yellow  loamy  precipices  that  sur- 
round all  the  New-England  bays.  The  edible-nest  builder  is  small, 
between  three  and  four  inches  long,  having  a  white  breast,  and  a  white 
spot  on  each  tail-feather.  This  bird  collects  a  white  glutinous  sub- 
stance from  the  sun-fish,  biche-de-mer^  &;c.,  which  are  left  by  the 
receding  tides  on  some  parts  of  the  coral-reefs,  at  the  last  of  the  ebb ; 
and  of  this  they  form  their  nests,  in  the  clefts  and  crevices  of  rocks, 
in  the  most  inaccessible  places  which  they  can  find.  So  that  the  na- 
tives of  these  islands  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  who  make  it  a'business  to 
hunt  for  these  nests  for  the  Chinese  market,  are  sometimes  obliged  to 
dive  into  the  water,  in  order  to  enter  the  submarine  mouths  of  caverns 
where  this  sagacious  bird  has  chosen  her  residence. 

These  nests  are  attached  close  to  the  rock,  which  serves  for  one 
side ;  or,  when  built  in  an  angle,  two  sides  of  the  curious  fabric. 
When  finished,  and  sufficiently  hardened  in  the  sun,  the  cunning  little 
architect  moves  into  her  habitation,  and  prepares  for  the  production  of 
a  family.  She  generally  lays  three  or  four  eggs,  which  are  about  the 
size  of  a  robin's  egg,  but  the  shell  is  perfectly  white.  The  nest,  when 
taken  from  the  rock,  has  the  capacity  of  a  quarter  of  an  orange-peel, 
taken  from  fruit  of  the  largest  size.  It  is  generally  white,  like  isin- 
glass ;  and  when  collected  by  the  natives  of  the  Sooloo,  Celebes, 
New-Guinea,  or  the  islands  in.  the  vicinity,  they  are  packed,  like  tea- 
cups, one  within  the  other,  in  bunches  of  two  or  three  pounds  each. 
A  single  nest  v/eighs  about  two  or  three  ounces.  I  have  often  eaten  of 
the  soups  which  are  made  of  these  nests,  and  have  found  them  pos- 
sessing a  verv  aorreeable  aromatic  flavour. 


V 


May.]        ^^  THE  NATIVES.  4Q3 


CHAPTER  VI. 

M^issacre  Islands — Commence  building  a  House — A  Garden  planted — Friendship 
of  Henneen,  the  Island  Chief — Friendly  Disposition  of  the  Natives — Precau- 
tions against  Surprise — Symptoms  of  Perfidy,  Duplicity,  and  Dissimulation — 
Drawn  into  an  Ambuscade — Disarm  a  Host — Amity  and  Confidence  restored — 
Specious  but  hollow  Professions  of  Good-will — The  Alann — The  Massacre — 
The  Battle — The  Rescue — Cannibalism — Deplorable  Situation  of  the  Survivors 
— Sail  from  the  Islands — Arrive  at  Manilla. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  Wednesday,  the  26th  of  May,  we  landed 
twenty-five  men  on  the  point  I  had  selected  the  previous  evening,  as 
mentioned  in  the  last  chapter.  Each  man  having  an  axe,  well  sharp- 
ened for  the  purpose,  they  immediately  commenced  cutting  down  trees, 
and  clearing  away  the  ground  directly  abreast  of  the  Antarctic,  and 
close  to  the  edge  of  the  beach.  With  such  ardour  and  alacrity  did 
they  pursue  their  labours,  that  by  six  o'clock,  P.  M.,  the  ground  was 
not  only  prepared  for  the  site  of  a  building  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
in  length,  fifty  feet  in  -width,  and  forty  feet  high,  but  a  considerable  part 
of  the  frame  of  the  projected  edifice  was  actually  got  out  in  the  same 
time.  This  day's  work  appeared  to  delight  the  natives  very  much ; 
but  the  rapidity  with  which  the  trees  were  felled  by  the  crew  electrified 
them  with  astonishment. 

In  the  afternoon  I  selected  some  seeds  of  different  kinds,  such  as  I 
thought  would  prove  congenial  to  the  climate  and  soil  of  these  islands^ 
and  went  on  shore  for  the  purpose  of  planting  them.  Attended  by  one 
of  the  crew,  I  carefully  examined  the  ground  in  several  places  near 
the  centre  of  the  island,  and  finally  made  choice  of  a  t)eautiful  spot 
which  seemed  admirably  fitted  for  a  garden.  Here  we  went  to  work 
with  our  spades,  and  soon  turned  up  a  sufficient  extent  of  rich  mellow 
soil  for  our  purpose,  hundreds  of  the  natives  all  the  while  looking  on 
with  intense  curiosity  and  amazement.  I  could  not,  for  some  time, 
make  them  fully  comprehend  the  nature  and  purpose  of  our  operations  ; 
which  they  continued  to  contemplate  in  doubtful  surprise,  until  they 
saw  me  put  the  seeds  into  the  ground,  when  the  truth  seemed  to  flash 
at  once  upon  their  minds. 

A  tall,  slender,  well-built  man  now  stepped, up  to  me  and  gave  me 
his  hand,  with  an  expression  of  approbation  and  gratitude  ;  giving  me 
to  understand  that  he  now  comprehended  the  object  of  my  hitherto 
mysterious  proceedings,  and  that  he  approved  of  it  very  highly.  The 
countenance  of  this  man  was  expressive  of  deep  penetration  and  great 
decision  of  character.  His  name  was  Henneen ;  and  he  was,  as  I 
subsequently  discovered,  the  chief  of  this  island :  King  Nero,  the 
monarch  of  the  whole  group,  merely  being  here  on  a  visit  from  the 
largest  island  in  his  dominions,  lying  about  seven  miles  to  the  south, 
on  which  he  resided. 

Cc  2 


m 


404  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  "^Sl         [1830. 

Encouraged  by  the  approbation  of  Henneen  and  his  people,  I  now 
vent  on,  and  planted  potatoes,  yams,  pumpkins,  oranges,  apples,  pears, 
peaches,  plums,  onions,  cabbages,  beets,  carrots,  parsnips,  artichokes, 
beans,  pease,  watermelons,  and  muskmelons.  While  we  were  plant- 
ing the  seeds  of  these  vegetables  and  fruits,  I  told  Henneen  that  there 
must  be  a  fence  around  them,  to  prevent  their  being  trampled  upon  and 
destroyed.  He  immediately  set  his  men  to  work,  and  before  night 
the  little  garden  was  all  planted  and  fenced.  I  then  told  Nero  and 
Henneen  that  in  the  course  of  a  few  moons  they  might  expect  to  find 
a  variety  of  edible  productions  in  this  young  plantation ;  and  in  two 
or  three  years  a  number  of  trees  bearing  wholesome  and  delicious 
fruits.  Henneen  explamed  this  to  the  natives,  and  was  answered  by 
a  loud  and  general  shout  of  approbation  and  joy. 

This  was  followed  by  a  speech  from  King  Nero,  in  which  his 
majesty  assured  his  chiefs  and  subjects  that  I  was  taking  all  this 
trouble  and  pams  for  their  general  good,  from  generous  and  disinter- 
ested motives.  At  the  conclusion  of  this  address  the  whole  welkm 
rang  with  their  joyous  shouts.  When  this  clamour  had  subsided,  I 
made  Nero  and  Henneen  understand  that  this  garden  was  intended  for 
them ;  and  that  in  due  time  it  would  furnish  seeds  enough  for  all  his 
people,  on  every  island.  By  this  mark  of  respect  from  me  they  ap- 
peared to  feel  themselves  highly  honoured,  and  promised  to  see  that 
the  garden  was  cultured  with  great  care. 

These  arrangements  and  operations  being  completed,  we  proceeded 
in  a  body  towards  the  village,  taking  a  route  round  the  south  end  of 
the  island,  where  I  could  not  help  pausing  a  while  to  contemplate  the 
ceaseless  but  unavailing  warfare  which  ocean  wages  against  the 
coral  bulwarks  that  protect  these  lovely  islands.  I  gazed  upon  the 
foaming  breakers  with  mingled  sensations  of  astonishment  and  awe, 
and  silently  adored  that  Being  who  gave  to  the  smallest  insects  the 
power  to  perform  such  wonderful  miracles !  It  is  true  that  the 
mighty  ocean  may  tear  away  mountains  from  their  foundations  of  ada- 
mant ;  it  may  ingulf  cities  in  irretrievable  ruin  ;  dash  fleets  of  shipping 
to  atoms,  and  destroy  all  the  feeble  operations  of  man,  the  proud  self- 
styled  lord  of  tlie  creation ;  and  yet  here  it  exerts  its  force  in  vain 
against  the  works  of  tiny  animals,  scarcely  perceptible  to  the  naked 
eye.  Neptune  sees  his  domains  thus  continually  intruded  upon  in  a 
thousand,  nay  a  million  different  directions,  and  storms,  and  frets,  and 
fumes,  and  wages  eternal  war  against  the  intruders.  But  how  impo- 
tent his  wrath  !  Tlie  little  labourers  still  go  on,  unmmdful  of  his  frothy 
rage — new  mountains  of  coral  still  rise  from  the  oozy  abyss,  and 
imagination  may  gaze  into  futurity,  until  it  sees  the  vast  Pacific  con- 
verted into  a  continent,  resting,  as  it  were,  on  a  base  of  coral. 

At  sundown  we  returned  to  the  vessel,  with  all  our  labourers  of  the 
point ;  and  after  partaking  of  a  hearty  supper,  with  that  best  of  all 
sauces,  a  good  appetite,  we  set  our  watches,  and  all  turned-in  upon 
deck,  beneath  the  awning,  which  extended  the  whole  length  of  the 
vessel.  The  nights  here  are  very  beautiful,  aijd  more  favourable  to 
health  than  those  of  any  other  country  that  I  have  ever  visited,  on 
account  of  there  being  no  dews  falling  here.     The  cause  of  tliis  total 


May.]  PRECAUTIONS  AGAINST  SURPRISE.  405 

absence  of  nocturnal  humidity  I  cannot  pretend  to  assign.  We  could 
here  sleep  quietly,  without  any  apprehensions  of  colds,  agues,  or  rheu- 
matisms, being  gently  fanned  and  refreshed  by  the  passing  breath  of 
the  south-east  trade-winds ;  which,  not  being  interrupted  by  any  high 
land  or  island,  blew  serenely  and  steadily  upon  us. 

The  usual  precautions  against  surprise  were  carefully  adopted.  The 
sentinels  M'ere  placed  as  on  the  preceding  night ;  there  being  one  man 
on  each  bow,  one  in  each  waist,  and  one  on  each  quarter,  with  loaded 
muskets  by  them,  and  the  boarding-pikes  were  always  at  hand  in  the 
racks.  The  arm-chest  was  amply  supplied  with  loaded  muskets,  pis- 
tols, and  cutlasses  ;  and  every  man  was  provided  with  a  cartridge-box, 
containing  twenty-four  rounds  of  cartridges.  The  battle-lanterns 
were  always  at  hand ;  the  large  guns  and  swivels  were  kept  loaded 
with  grape  and  canister-shot,  and  the  matches  ready  lighted,  day 
and  night. 

Although  we  often  trusted  our  lives  in  the  hands  of  the  natives,  we 
were  always  careful  to  leave  nothing  undone  or  unattended  to  which 
could  contribute,  m  the  smallest  degree,  to  the  safety  of  the  vessel. 
The  cross-trees  were  screened  in  such  a  manner  as  to  be  completely 
arrow-proof;  so  that  should  the  natives  ever  obtain  command  of  the 
deck,  one  man  in  each  top  would  soon  clear  it  with  the  swivel,  wliich 
was  always  stationed  there,  loaded  with  canisters  of  musket-balls  and 
buck-shot,  with  lighted  matches  m  the  covered  match-tubs,  and  pro- 
tected from  the  rain.  There  was  also  an  arm-chest  in  each  top,  with 
two  blunderbusses  in  each,  which  were  always  loaded  with  No.  1 
buck-shot.  The  top-chests  were  well  supplied  with  ammunition,  there 
being  sufficient  for  five  hundred  rounds,  completely  sheltered  from  the 
weather.  Thus,  we  felt  perfectly  at  ease  w^th  respect  to  the  safety  of 
the  vessel ;  to  which  every  man  had  become  so  much  attached,  that  he 
would  readily  sacrifice  his  life  in  defence  of  "  the  saucy  Antarctic,"  as 
they  fondly  called  her. 

May  27th. — On  the  following  day,  Thursday,  the  27th,  w^e  took  an 
early  breakfast,  and  at  five,  A.  M.,  landed  twenty-eight  men,  with  the 
armorer  and  his  forge.  The  crew"  immediately  addressed  themselves 
to  their  several  duties,  while  the  armorer  proceeded  to  set  up  his  forge, 
which  was  soon  ready  for  use. 

In  the  mean  time  I  committed  the  command  of  the  vessel  to  Mr. 
Wallace,  the  trading  officer,  and  accompanied  Henneen,  with  a  few  of 
his  party,  to  a  small  unmhabited  island,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
that  on  which  we  were  building  our  house.  This  little  island,  which 
is  not  more  than  half  a  mile  in  circuit,  is  thickly  covered  with  heavy 
timber  and  fruit  trees,  among  M'hich  I  planted  in  various  places  pota- 
toes, yams,  beans,  pease,  apples,  pears,  and  peaches ;  each  kind  in 
the  soil  which  I  considered  most  congenial  to  its  nature  and  conducive 
to  its  growth. 

At  about  ten  o'clock,  A.  M.,  I  returned  to  the  island  on  which  my 
men  were  employed,  and  found  every  one  in  good  spirits,  and  hard  at 
Avork ;  assisted  by  about  one  hundred  natives,  who  were  mostly  busy 
in  making  thatch  of  cocoanut  leaves,  to  cover  the  roof  of  the  building- 
after  it  should  be  raised.     The  forge  now  being  ready  for  operation^ 


406  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  [1830. 

the  novelty  of  the  scene  attracted  the  attention  of  all  the  natives,  who 
gazed  with  amazement  on  every  part  of  the  apparatus.  But  when 
the  bellows  began  to  play,  and  the  coals  to  burn,  and  the  sparks  of  fire 
to  fly  from  the  heated  iron,  the  men  and  women,  as  one  body,  fled  in 
terror  from  the  spot.  Henneen  was  the  first  man  whom  we  could  per- 
suade to  return.  We  soon  convinced  him  of  the  unreasonableness  of 
his  fears  ;  and  to  prove  to  him  the  advantages  of  the  forge,  the  armorer 
made  him  a  small  harpoon,  in  about  five  minutes.  His  joy  at  this 
present  was  excessive  ;  and  another,  a  little  larger,  was  immediately 
made  for  the  king,  while  the  other  chiefs  were  presented  with  some 
iish-hooks.  In  short,  their  friendship  seemed  to  increase  towards  us 
■in  the  same  proportion  as  successive  novelties  arrested  their  attention. 

The  natives  had  now  once  more  collected  around  the  forge,  having 
dismissed  their  groundless  apprehensions  of  danger.  Among  them 
was  an  elderly  man,  belonging  to  one  of  the  other  islands,  who  laid 
hold  of  a  piece  of  flat  iron  bar,  about  eighteen  inches  long,  and  made 
ofl"  with  it  without  any  ceremony.  Nero  immediately  sent  men  after 
the  delinquent,  from  whom  they  took  the  pilfered  article  by  force. 
Nothing  daunted,  however,  the  old  man  returned  to  the  forge,  and 
commenced  raving  against  those  who  pursued  him ;  and  on  seeing  a 
favourable  opportunity,  stole  another  piece,  of  about  the  same  size 
^nd  shape.  Four  of  his  companions,  also,  who  had  accompanied 
him  back,  seized  on  some  of  the  armorer's  tools,  with  which  they 
made  off.  The  things  were  soon  missed,  however,  and  the  thieves 
were  pursued  by  the  islanders,  at  the  instance  of  Henneen,  and  shortly 
overtaken.  Their  party,  by  this  time,  had  become  quite  strong,  and  a 
serious  conflict  ensued,  in  which  several  of  both  parties  were  severely 
wounded. 

On  seeing  this,  I  thought  it  my  duty  to  interfere,  and  endeavour  to 
settle  the  difficulty,  and  restore  peace  between  the  two  parties  of  natives, 
before  their  blood  should  become  so  much  chafed  as  to  render  such  a 
result  impossible.  The  armorer  left  his  forge  at  the  same  moment 
to  witjiess  the  contest ;  and  though  absent  but  a  very  few  minutes, 
he  found  it  on  his  return  stripped  of  almost  every  thing  portable.  All 
the  iron  and  nearly  all  the  tools  had  been  stolen,  and  he  knew  not 
by  whom.  He  immediately  came  and  acquainted  me  with  the  theft, 
just  as  I  had  succeeded,  with  extreme  difficulty,  and  some  hazard,  in 
restoring  peace  and  order  among  the  contending  natives. 

Under  these  circumstances,  I  immediately  applied  to  Nero  and 
Henneen,  made  them  acquainted  with  the  villanous  transaction,  and 
desired  that  the  stolen  articles  should  be  instantly  restored.  To  this 
Nero  readily  assented ;  at  the  same  time  flying  into  a  violent  rage 
with  his  subjects,  for  the  manner  in  which  they  had  treated  me.  The 
greater  part  of  the  stolen  articles  were  soon  recovered ;  and  Nero 
})ointed  to  two  canoes  which  were  under  sail  at  some  distance, 
bound  to  one  of  the  leeward  islands,  which  he  said  contained  the  re- 
mainder of  them,  and  that  they  should  be  sent  back  on  the  following 
<lay.  He  accordingly  despatched  another  canoe  in  chase  of  the  cul- 
prits, and  finally  succeeded  in  restoring  the  remainder  cf  the  things 
.according  to  promise. 


May.]  SAVAGE  DISSIMTJLATIOX.  407 

It  being  how  about  twelve  o'clock,  I  invited  Nero,  Henneen,  and  the 
rest  of  the  principal  chiefs  to  accompany  me  on  board,  and  take  din- 
ner with  me.  This  invitation  was  accepted  by  all  but  Henneen,  who 
made  some  trifling  excuse.  I  attached  no  importance  to  this  circum- 
stance, however,  and  we  went  on  board,  leaving  two  men  to  guard 
the  forge  and  take  care  of  the  tools.  On  reaching  the  vessel's  side, 
Nero  and  his  chiefs  were  handed  on  board,  and  entertained  with  our 
usual  cordiahty.  They  now  went  to  all  parts  of  the  vessel,  without 
betraying  any  apprehensions  of  danger ;  admiring  each  object  that 
came  in  their  way,  and  evincing  a  great  desire  to  become  acquainted 
with  the  causes  and  principles  of  every  thing. 

The  deck  guns,  being  large  bodies  of  iron,  still  excited  a  great  deal 
of  curiosity  in  them ;  and  they  expressed  much  anxiety  to  know  why 
they  were  hollow.  I  could  not  well  satisfy  them  on  this  subject  with- 
out discharging  one  of  the  pieces  ;  and  this  I  concluded  would  alarm 
them  to  such  a  degree  as  to  cause  great  trouble  in  regaining  their 
confidence.  It  was  therefore  thought  best  to  let  them  remain  in  igno- 
rance on  this  particular  point.  A  practical  illustration  of  the  mystery 
was  much  nearer  at  hand  than  either  party  anticipated. 

After  enjoying  a  hearty  dinner,  with  no  lack  of  courtesy  and  hos- 
pitality on  my  part,  we  all  returned  to  the  scene  of  industry  on  the 
island.  The  moment  we  landed,  I  was  informed  that  another  theft  had 
been  committed  during  my  absence,  of  two  axes  and  a  hatchet ;  and 
tliat  there  was  incontrovertible  testimony  that  this  act  of  perfidy  had 
been  countenanced,  if  not  encouraged,  by  Heni\een  himself.  I  there- 
fore applied  to  Nero  ;  but  the  moment  I  met  him,  I  plainly  perceived 
that  there  was  an  understanding  between  himself  and  the  treacherous 
chief.     I  nevertheless  very  civilly  made  my  complaint,  and  requested  • 

the  stolen  articles  to  be  immediately  returned.     Instead  of  any  attempt         ^ 
at  apology  or  conciliation,  the  negro  king  flew  into  a  violent  pas- 
sion, and  gave  me  to  understand  that  he  should  take  no  farther  trouble 
about  the  matter.     I  then  turned  to  Henneen,  from  whom  I  received 
the  same  kind  of  answer. 

I  was  now  convinced  that  if  we  suffered  this  act  of  perfidy  to  pass 
unnoticed,  all  our  prospects  of  a  successful  voyage  at  these  islands 
would  be  annihilated  at  once ;  I  therefore  determined  to  recover  the 
things  if  possible  ;  "  peaceably,  if  I  could — forcibly,  if  I  must."  In 
pursuance  of  this  resolution,  we  returned  on  board  the  Antarctic,  armed 
six  of  the  crew,  besides  myself,  with  muskets,  pistols,  and  cutlasses ; 
and  then  pulled  in  to  the  beach,  immediately  abreast  of  the  village  ; 
with  the  full  determination,  either  to  recover  the  stolen  articles,  or  to 
secure  the  person  of  Henneen,  and  detain  him  on  board  the  Antarctic, 
as  a  hostage  or  security  for  their  forthcoming. 

We  had  scarcely  landed,  when  we  were  met  on  the  beach  by  four 
of  the  natives,  unarmed,  who  oflered  to  conduct  me  to  the  village 
M'here  Henneen  resided,  which  was  beautifully  situated  in  the  centre 
of  a  grove  of  cocoanut  and  nut-stiller  trees,  of  a  majestic  size.  I 
accepted  the  offer,  and  we  followed  our  guides  to  the  village.  But 
what  was  our  astonishment,  on  emerging  from  the  thicket,  through  a 
narrow  path,  into  the  skirts  of  the  village,  to  behold,  directly  in  front 


408  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  [183D 

of  us,  two  hundred  savage  Avarriors,  completely  armed  with  bows  and 
war- clubs,  and  ready  for  battle  !  their  faces  were  painted  red,  and  their 
lieads  fantastically  ornamented  with  red  feathers  and  cocoanut  leaves. 
Every  eye  was  bent  upon  our  little  band  with  an  expression  of  demo- 
niac ferocity ;  mingled,  as  I  thought,  with  a  sense  of  shame  and  con- 
trition for  their  perfidious  treachery.  When  my  indignant  eye  encoun- 
tered theirs,  a  consciousness  of  doing  wrong  was  betrayed  in  spite  of 
themselves,  as  I  instantly  read  in  the  downcast  looks  of  their  savage 
countenances.  They  felt  that  they  were  in  the  diabolical  act  of  ren- 
dering evil  for  good ;  of  seeking  the  life  of  one  who  had  already 
freely  risked  it  to  do  them  service. 

On  seeing  this  formidable  band  of  painted  warriors,  with  their  bows 
strung,  and  their  left  feet  thrown  forward,  as  if  in  the  very  act  of 
discharging  their  arrows,  I  well  knew  that  they  were  determined  on 
war.  On  turning  to  speak  to  my  little  heroic  band  of  chosen  follow- 
ers, I  foimd  that  nearly  an  equal  number  of  these  black  devils,  who 
had  been  concealed  on  each  side  of  our  path,  had  now  risen,  and 
closed  behind  us.  Thus  we  were  completely  surrounded  by  nearly 
four  hundred  ferocious  cannibals,  who  were  determined  on  our  destruc- 
tion, and  only  waiting  for  the  word  of  command  to  riddle  us  with  their 
arrows,  and  then  to  carve  us,  not  as  "  a  dish  fit  for  the  gods,"  but  as 
carcasses  for  hounds. 

Self-possession  and  presence  of  mind  sustained  us  in  this  trying 
hour.  Not  a  cheek  w^as  blanched,  not  a  nerve  quivered,  among  our 
little  band  of  heroes,  whose  coolness  and  courage  kept  pace  with  the 
increasing  magnitude  of  the  emergency.  I  turned  and  addressed  a  few 
words  to  them,  adapted  to  the  occasion,  assuring  them  that  our  safety 
depended  solely  upon  coolness  and  decision ;  that  nothing  but  a  des- 
perate step  could  save  us  from  destraction  ;  and  exhorted  them  to  put 
their  trust  in  Heaven,  and  promptly  obey  every  order  I  should  give. 

I  now  thre\v  my  musket  on  the  ground,  took  a  pistol  in  my  right 
hand,  and  my  cutlass  in  the  other,  and  ordered  two  of  my  men  to 
follow  my  example.  I  then  gave  such  orders  as  I  deemed  requisite 
to  the  other  four,  and  proceeded  in  my  plan  of  operation^.  In  the 
mean  lime  Henneen  was  making  a  speech  to  his  band  of  warriors ; 
but  I  was  in  search  of»higher  game,  diligently  surveying  the  whole 
circle  of  savages,  till  my  eyes  at  length  rested  on  Nero,  their  king,  who 
had  stationed  himself  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  ring.  Henneen  had 
now  concluded  his  speech,  and  the  savages  were  fixing  then*  arrows 
to  their  bowstrings,  ready  for  a  general  discharge. 

Witli  a  cool,  calm  audacity,  which  rendered  tliese  savages  motion- 
less with  amazement,  I  advanced  to  their  astonished  monarch,  with 
my  pistol  presented  to  his  royal  breast ;  while  my  two  trusty  follow- 
ers, with  equal  deliberate  firmness,  took  their  stations  oil  each  side  of 
his  majesty,  holding  two  glittering  cutlasses  suspended  over  his  head, 
^vith  strict  orders  to  sever  it  from  his  body,  the  moment  an  arrow  was 
discharged  from  a  bow  at  either  of  our  party.  In  adopting  this  plan, 
I  hoped  that  during  the  confusion  which  would  necessarily  follow  the 
death  of  the  king,  some  of  our  party  might  probably  effect  their  escape. 
This  delicate  service  was  intrusted  to  two  men  who  I  knew  would 


ISfay.]  SAVAGE  DUPLICITY.  409 

never  flinch  from  a  duty,  however  disagreeable.  Their  names  were 
George  Strong  and  Henry  Wiley ;  the  former  of  Albany,  in  the  state 
of  New- York ;  and  the  latter  of  Charlestown,  state  of  Massachusetts, 
being  my  second  officer. 

Struck  with  horror  at  the  perilous  situation  of  their  monarch,  the 
savages  suddenly  paused  in  the  very  act  of  notching  their  arrows, 
which  now  dropped  from  the  slackened  bowstring,  and  lay  at  their 
feet  on  the  ground.  The  moment  we  perceived  the  happy  effect  of 
this  hasty  measure,  and  while  confusion  reigned  in  the  ranks  of  these 
bloodthirsty  villains,  we  walked  around  the  circle  with  drawn  cutlasses, 
and  compelled  every  one  of  them  to  lay  down  their  bows,  war-clubs,  &c., 
which  were  quickly  collected  into  one  heap,  by  my  other  brave  lads  : 
viz.  John  Cowan,  Joseph  Hicks,  George  Cartwright,  and  Thomas 
Bernard.  This  being  done,  his  terrified  majesty,  whose  nerves  had 
been  so  shocked  by  this  hasty  transaction  that  he  could  hardly  stand, 
was  escorted  to  the  beach,  and  given  in  charge  to  Mr.  Wallace,  who  had 
that  moment  landed  from  the  schooner,  in  another  boat ;  while  live  of 
the  principal  chiefs  were  marched  to  our  boat,  when  we  all  put  off, 
and  were  soon  on  the  bright  deck  of  the  Antarctic,  where  w^e  returned 
thanks  to  Heaven  for  our  miraculous  deliverance. 

As  the  friendship  of  Nero  and  his  chiefs  was  all  important  to  the 
success  of  oin'  enterprise,  I  adopted  every  means,  during  the  remainder 
of  the  day,  to  conciliate  their  favour,  and  flattered  myself  that  I  had 
completely  succeeded.  Every  thing  seemed  now  to  go  on  very  pleas- 
antly, both  on  shore  among  our  working  party,  and  on  board  among 
our  mvoluntary  visiters.  I  treated  them  to  every  thing  they  appeared 
to  covet,  whether  useful,  ornamental,  or  edible,  and  amused  them 
with  the  drum  and  fife,  together  with  ah's  on  a  large  French  organ  ; 
all  of  which  appeared  to  afford  them  great  pleasure ;  the  organ  in 
particular  seemed  to  excite  a  great  degree  of  curiosity  m  these  untu- 
tored children  of  fallen  human  nature. 

At  seven,  P.  M.,  all  hands  came  on  board,  in  good  spirits  ;  and  Mr. 
Wallace  informed  me  that  one  hundred  and  fifty  of  the  natives  had  been 
diUgently  employed  in  making  thatch,  ever  since  the  king  left  the  beach. 
After  supper,  the  music  was  got  up,  and  our  sailors  gave  the  chiefs  a 
specimen  of  dancing  as  practised  in  New- York ;  which  compliment 
was  reciprocated  by  the  chiefs,  in  some  very  grotesque  dances  of  their 
own.  Peals  of  laughter  resounded  on  all  sides,  as  these  islanders 
thought  our  mode  of  "handling  the  feet"  was  full  as  ridiculous  as 
theirs  appeared  to  us.  In  this  they  probably  judged  correctly.  The 
evening  passed  with  great  hilarity  and  apparent  good-will,  by  every 
individual  on  board.  The  chiefs  laughed,  shouted,  and  played  antics. 
Our  men  did  the  same.  At  ten,  P.  M.,  the  regular  watch  being  set, 
we  all  retired  to  rest ;  I  having,  with  my  own  hands,  made  a  bed  for 
the  chiefs,  of  some  old  sails. 

May  28th. — The  morning  of  Friday,  the  eventful  28th  of  May, 
opened  on  these  lovely  islands  with  smiles  of  cloudless  beauty.  At 
five,  A.  M.,  twenty-one  men  went  on  shore,  under  the  command  of  Mr. 
Wallace  and  Mr.  Wiley,  to  pursue  their  labours  on  the  edilicTe  we 
were  raising.     At  nine,  A.  M.,  after  giving  the  king  and  chiefs  as  good 


410  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  [1830. 

and  as  bountiful  a  breakfast  as  the  store-rooms  of  the  well-supplied 
Antarctic  could  furnish,  they  were  loaded  with  presents,  and  set  on 
shore,  to  all  appearance  highly  delighted  with  their  visit  and  the  friendly 
reception  they  had  met.  Indeed  they  seemed  to  take  unusual  pains 
to  convince  us  of  their  gratitude  and  good-will.  Among  other  modes 
of  expressing  them,  Nero  and  the  chiefs  voluntarily  promised  that 
their  people  should  assist  ours  in  making  and  thatching  the  house, 
which  was  now  partly  raised,  and  nearly  ready  for  covering.  The 
sincerity  of  these  professions  and  promises  remains  to  be  determined 
by  those  who  have  patience  to  pursue  the  course  of  this  plain  narra- 
tive of  facts. 

After  having  thus  paid  to  these  chiefs  every  mark  of  respect 
which  is  due  to  rank,  and  which  I  thought  sound  policy  dictated,  I 
took  a  few  men,  and  commenced  landing  such  articles  as  would  be 
first  wanted  in  curing  the  biche-de-mer.  The  work  now  appeared 
to  be  going  on  very  pleasantly ;  the  house  being  nearly  ready  for 
thatching,  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  of  the  natives  assisting  our  work- 
men, for  which  we  had  agreed  to  pay  them  liberally.  We  had  already 
landed  several  boat-loads  of  the  necessary  articles,  and  were  preparing 
10  despatch  another,  when  at  about  half-past  eleven,  A.  M.  my  ears 
were  startled  by  a  sound  that  sent  the  life-blood  curdling  to  my  heart. 
It  was  the  warhoop  of  the  savages  on  shore. 

I  doubt  whether  the  bursting  of  a  volcano  almost  beneath  my  feet, 
the  unexpected  shock  of  an  earthquake,  or  a  bolt  from  heaven  strik- 
ing the  deck  of  the  Antarctic,  could  have  startled  and  astounded  me 
like  that  infernal  yell.  Were  I  to  live  till  doomsday,  it  would  still 
tingle  in  my  ears  by  day,  and  visit  my  dreams  by  night.  I  too  well 
knew  the  deadly  import  of  that  fatal  shout ;  and  I  was  not  there  to 
protect  my  men. 

The  larboard  battery  of  the  vessel  bore  directly  on  the  village ; 
and  without  contemplating  the  distance,  I  snatched  a  lighted  match, 
and  discharged  one  of  the  cannon.  The  shot,  as  I  might  have  antici- 
pated, fell  spent  and  harmless,  without  doing  any  execution.  But  the 
sudden  and  unexpected  report  alarmed  my  men,  who  were  scattered 
about  in  the  woods,  pursuing  their  various  occupations.  Taking  it  as 
a  signal  of  hostilities  on  the  part  of  the  natives,  every  man  started 
for  the  beach,  in  front  of  the  schooner,  where  they  had  carelessly 
left  their  arms,  under  the  protection  of  two  sentinels.  On  approach- 
ing the  spot,  they  were  met  by  about  three  hundred  natives,  who  had 
just  butchered  their  two  shipmates  the  sentinels ;  and  were  waiting 
their  own  approach,  with  bows  ready  bent.  The  moment  our  ill-fated 
men  emerged  from  the  thicket,  a  shower  of  arrows  was  poured  into 
their  unshielded  defenceless  bodies.  Only  three  of  them  fell  from 
this  volley,  however,  although  scarcely  any  escaped  one  or  more 
wounds.  --5  I"  I 

A  well-manned  whale-boat,  despatched  on  the  instant  of  the  alarm, 
was  flying  to  the  rescue  of  my  brave  fellows  on  shore,  as  fast  as  ten 
sturdy  oarsmen  could  pull  her  over  water,  which  her  keel  scarcely 
seemed  to  touch..  She  was  commanded  by  Mr.  Johnson,  whose  voice 
i  could  hear  continually  exclaiming,  "Give  way,  men!    Give  way! 


May.]  THE  MASSACRE.  411 

For  the  love  of  God,  give  way,  and  rescue  your  shipmates !"  But 
they  required  not  this  extra  inducement  to  exertion.  Their  very  souls 
seemed  to  be  concentred  in  their  vigorous  muscular  arms,  and  I 
thought  I  could  see  the  intensity  of  their  anxiety  in  the  agony  of  their 
countenances,  which  of  course  were  turned  to  the  Antarctic.  As  I 
gazed  on  their  lessening  boat,  I  could  scarcely  hold  my  glass,  for  the 
straining  of  my  own  muscles  and  sinews,  which  instinctively  kept 
timely  motion  with  their  oars,  as  if  I  could  lend  them  strength,  and 
assist  in  propelling  the  boat.  If  the  reader  has  ever  experienced  a 
similar  sensation,  arising  from  nervous  sympathy,  he  will  understand 
me.     If  not,  I  am  unable  to  describe  it. 

In  the  mean  while,  my  gallant  ill-fated  lads  on  shore  were  selling 
their  lives  at  as  dear  a  rate  as  possible.  After  receiving  the  volley  of 
arrows  before-mentioned,  when  emerging  from  the  thicket,  the  gallant 
Wallace  (whose  bravery,  virtues,  and  melancholy  fate  declare  his 
descent  more  unequivocally  than  his  name)  rallied  his  men,  and  well 
supported  by  his  friend  the  chivalric  Wiley,  led  them  forward  to 
play  the  desperate  game  of  life  or  death,  Avith  such  fearful  odds 
against  them.  Perceiving  that  indiscriminate  slaughter  was  the  de- 
termined object  of  the  savages,  from  whom  no  quarter  could  be  ex- 
pected, this  undaunted  Briton,  with  three  arrows  then  in  his  body, 
thus  exclaimed  to  his  men,  as  they  were  plucking  the  pointed  shafts 
from  their  own  flesh.  His  words  as  I  was  informed  by  a  survivor, 
were  in  substance  these  : — "  My  fine  fellows,  you  see  our  fate  !  Let 
ws  die  like  men ! — keep  close  together !  draw  your  cutlasses,  and  follow 
me  !  If  safety  can  be  found  at  all,  we  must  seek  it  at  close  quarters." 
With  these  words  he  rushed  forward  to  the  charge,  dealing  death  at 
every  blow,  in  which  he  was  closely  followed  and  closely  imitated  by 
Wiley  and  the  rest.  The  savages  shrank  back  with  astonishment,  as 
these  brave  fellows  literally  mowed  down  their  ranks,  opening  a  spa- 
cious path  for  themselves  through  the  thickest  of  their  host.  For 
every  white  man  that  fell,  half  a  dozen  black  cannibals  bit  the  dust ; 
until  the  few  survivors  of  our  party  were  covered  with  wounds,  and 
faint  with  exertion  and  the  loss  of  blood. 

But  what  avails  human  bravery  under  such  desperate  circumstances  ! 
Fifty  arrows  were  now  sticking  in  the  body  of  the  undaunted  Wallace, 
protruding  like  the  quills  of  a  porcupine.  Some  of  the  wounds  were 
deep.  His  strength  was  exhausted — nature  could  do  no  more,  and  he 
fell  on  the  beach,  by  the  side  of  his  friend  Wiley,  who  had  received  his 
death-wound  in  protecting  him  from  the  stroke  of  a  war-club.  Even 
in  the  agonies  of  death,  Wallace  still  encouraged  his  men.  "  Fight  on," 
he  exclaimed,  as  the  blood  was  streaming  from  his  body  and  limbs — 
*'  fight  on,  my  brave  fellows ! — for  the  honour  of  seamen — sell  your 
lives  dearly — they  are  worth  a  great  price  !  Never  let  it  be  said  that 
England  or  America  produced  a  coward — die  like  men  !" 

These  were  his  last  words — I  mean  in  substance.  He  then,  by  a 
sudden  eflfort,  took  his  dying  friend's  hand ;  and  these  two  brave  offi- 
cers, who  had  cut  down  more  than  five  times  their  number  of  savages, 
with  their  blood-died  cutlasses,  now  turned  their  faces  towards  the 


412  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  1830. 

Antarctic,  and  gave  up  the  ghost.  The  last  surviror  who  left  the 
bloody  scene  saw  them  in  this  position  ;  firm  friends  in  life — undi- 
vided in  death.  The  survivors  continued  to  fight  with  desperation, 
dealing  around  destruction  on  every  side,  until  fourteen  of  their  party, 
out  of  twenty-one,  were  killed  or  missing. 

By  this  time,  the  whale-boat  which  I  had  despatched  with  Mr.  John- 
son and  ten  men,  all  well  armed,  had  reached  the  edge  of  the  shore. 
The  moment  she  came  within  musket-shot  of  the  savages,  the  men 
opened  upon  them  a  brisk  and  well-directed  fire,  which  caused  the 
sable  demons  to  fall  back  a«hort  distance,  and  enabled  our  little  band  of 
lieroes,  now  reduced  to  seven  in  number,  to  make  a  timely  and  suc- 
cessful retreat  to  the  boat.  Four  of  the  seven  were  badly  wounded, 
and  the  other  three  nearly  overcome  with  heat  and  excessive  fatigue. 

The  savages  had  now  recovered  from  the  panic  produced  by  our 
handful  of  bullets ;  and  seeing  that  the  remainder  of  their  prey  was 
likely  to  escape  their  bloody  fangs,  they  made  a  desperate  and  deter- 
mined rush  upon  our  boat ;  but  before  they  could  reach  her,  she  was 
in  deep  water.  A  part  of  them  then  saluted  her  with  a  shower  of  aiTOws, 
while  the  main  body  flew  to  their  canoes,  and  started  in  pursuit ;  every 
movemeni  indicating  a  fixed  determination  to  destroy  the  fugitives,  or 
perish  in  the  attempt. 

As  the  boat  was  very  much  lumbered  up,  with  seventeen  men  on 
board,  four  of  whom  were  badly  wounded,  it  will  naturally  be  expected 
that  her  progress  was  slow  ;  consequently  the  canoes  gained  upon  her 
very  fast.  As  soon  as  the  savages  had  approached  within  rausket-shot 
of  our  boat,  a  well-directed  fire  was  opened  upon  them  from  the  latter  ; 
but  the  falling  of  their  companions,  instead  of  deterring  these  hell- 
hounds from  their  purpose,  only  incited  them  to  rush  on  with  the 
greater  desperation.  But  the  moment  was  now  approaching  when 
their  intense  curiosity  respecting  those  big  hollow  pieces  of  iron  on  the 
Antarctic's  deck  was  to  be  fully  gratified. 

The  pursuers  gained  so  fast  upon  our  boat,  that  I  began  to  fear  her 
destruction  would  be  inevitable.  We  brought  the  broadside  of  the 
schooner  to  bear  on  the  canoes,  by  means  of  springs  on  our  cables  ; 
the  guns  were  all  loaded  with  grape  and  canister,  and  the  moment 
they  came  within  distance,  I  waved  to  the  officer  of  the  boat  to  pull  a 
little  towards  the  stern  of  the  vessel,  which  brought  all  the  canoes, 
about  twenty  in  number,  clear  from  the  range  of  the  boat.  At  this 
critical  moment,  the  Antarctic  opened  her  flaming  battery,  and  des- 
patched the  m.essengers  of  death  among  the  flotilla  of  canoes,  two  of 
"which  were  literally  dashed  into  fragments. 

The  unexpected  report  of  the  cannon,  together  with  the  unlooked-for 
effect,  struck  terror  into  the  hearts  of  the  astonished  enemy ;  and  it 
appeared  evident  that  these  natives  had  never  before  witnessed  such 
serious  eflects  from  the  combustion  of  gunpowder.  The  Antarctic  now 
kept  up  a  steady  fire  for  a  few  moments,  which  caused  the  canoes,  or 
such  as  still  remained  of  them,  to  make  a  precipitate  retreat  to  the 
island.  By  this  measure,  and  no  other  would  have  been  available, 
"we  saved  the  boat,  the  schooner,  and  nineteen  valuable  lives. 

Our  boat  soon  came  alongside,  and  the  wounded  were  helped  on 


May.]  CANNIBALISM.  413 

board,  one  of  whom  was  my  brother-in-law,  a  lad  of  nearly  sixteen 
years.  The  other  three  were  so  completely  exhausted,  from  heat  and 
fatigue,  and  so  sickened  by  having  seen  their  unfortunate  shipmates 
butchered  and  mangled  by  those  ferocious  cannibals,  that  they  were 
totally  unfit  for  duty.  The  mercury  in  the  thermometer  was  now  up  to 
107°  in  the  draught  of  the  companion-way.  Our  situation  was  far 
from  being  enviable. 

But  still  there  was  no  time  to  be  lost.  The  savages  were  rendered 
doubly  desperate  by  the  failure  of  their  diabolical  scheme  of  treachery, 
and  the  loss  of  so  many  of  their  party.  Their  strength  was  moment- 
arily increasing  by  a  general  turn-out  from  all  the  other  islands,  and 
preparations  were  quickly  completed  for  attacking  the  Antarctic  with  an 
overwhelming  force,  while  I  had  only  eleven  efficient  men  to  defend  the 
vessel.  Under  such  circumstances  we  thought  it  best  to  slip  the  cable 
and  make  sail,  which  was  soon  effected.  In  the  next  moment,  every 
man  was  at  his  quarters,  ready  to  receive  the  enemy,  who  was  now 
advancing  with  an  immense  flotilla  of  canoes. 

In  this  critical  emergency,  Heaven  interposed  in  our  favour.  A  gentle 
breeze  sprang  up  from  the  eastward,  and  we  soon  perceived,  to  our 
great  joy,  that  the  canoes  were  dropping  astern,  and  that  the  savages 
had  relinquished  the  chase.  Fortunate  indeed  was  it  for  us  that  they 
did  so,  for  the  wind  shortly  died  away  to  a  dead  calm  ;  and  at  the  same 
time  (a  little  after  2  P.  M.)  every  man  on  board,  with  the  single  ex- 
ception of  myself,  was  seized  with  a  violent  vomiting,  which  continued 
all  that  afternoon,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  night,  during  which 
period  I  was  several  times  apprehensive  for  their  lives.  This  sick- 
ness was  not  the  effect  of  fear ;  but  was  no  doubt  produced  by  the 
horrors  they  had  just  witnessed ;  the  heart-rending  spectacle  of  their 
slaughtered  shipmates  lying  mangled  on  the  beach,  while  some  of  their 
ruthless  butchers  were  cutting  and  carving  them  with  their  own  cut- 
lasses !  Others  again  were  churning  their  spears  into  the  writhing 
bodies  of  those  who  yet  had  life  ! 

It  was  very  fortunate  that  the  natives  did  not  come  upon  us  at  this 
time  ;  if  they  had,  they  must  inevitably  have  taken  the  vessel.  Had 
such  been  the  case,  however,  their  success  would  have  been  their 
destruction ;  for  one  of  the  wounded,  a  man  on  whom  I  could  depend, 
w^as  stationed  at  the  magazine  with  a  lighted  match,  to  be  applied  to 
the  powder  if  the  natives  got  command  of  the  deck. 

Having  now  a  few  moments  for  reflection,  I  took  a  telescope  and 
directed  my  attentiooi  to  the  island.  Fires  were  kindled  on  the  beach, 
in  every  direction,  among  the  dead  bodies  of  my  unfortunate  crew, 
from  which  those  hell-hounds  were  cutting  the  flesh,  and  roasting  it  in 
the  fire ;  and  then,  with  savage  ferocity,  tearing  it  to  pieces  with  their 
teeth,  while  from  the  half-cooked  fragment  the  fresh  blood  was  rimning 
down  their  ebony  chins  ! 

*'  Torn  limb  from  limb,  he  spreads  the  horrid  feast, 
And  fierce  devours  it,  like  a  mountain  beast ; 
He  sucks  the  marrow,  and  the  blood  he  drains. 
Nor  entrails,  fleah,  nor  solid  bone  remains." — Dry  den- 

Soon  after,  they  began  t»o  drag  the  bodies  of  their  own  fallen  comrades 


414  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  [1830. 

to  the  edge  of  the  beach,  and  then  buried  them  hi  the  bosom  of  the 
lagoon.  When  they  had  finished  this  necessary  task,  they  proceeded 
to  gather  up  their  plundeV,  and  divide  the  remains  of  our  slaughtered 
friends  among  them ;  after  which,  each  party  of  warriors  embarked 
in  their  respective  canoes,  and  started  for  the  several  islands  to  which 
they  belonged,  and  which  the  last  reached  about  dusk.  All  this  I  dis- 
tinctly beheld,  and  my  soul  sickened. 

When  I  looked  again,  fires  were  being  kindled  on  the  different 
islands,  until  they  were  ranged  along  all  the  beaches  that  fronted  the 
schooner.  Around  these  fires  the  natives  appeared  to  be  very  busy, 
for  the  greater  part  of  the  night.  This  was,  no  doubt,  for  the  prose- 
cution of  their  horrid  orgies  ;  but  fearful  that  treachery  lurked  beneath 
their  operations,  that  these  fires  might  be  intended  to  deceive  us,  and 
that  they  intended  to  attack  the  Antarctic  under  cover  of  the  darkness, 
every  man  was  kept  at  his  quarters  during  the  whole  of  that  melan- 
choly night.  Eighty  muskets  were  loaded  with  buckshot,  and  laid 
upon  the  trunk.  The  guns  and  swivels  were  all  double-shotted ;  the 
matches  kept  lighted  in  their  places,  and  one  man  was  stationed  in  each 
top,  'to  keep  a  sharp  look-out  for  canoes ;  their  matches  were  also 
lighted,  and  the  top-swivels  in  complete  readiness.  During  the  night 
we  cruised  about  among  the  shoals  and  reefs  of  the  lagoon,  anxiously 
waiting  the  tardy  approach  of  daylight,  which  at  last  was  hailed  with 
joy,  and  heartfelt  thankfulness. 

May  29th. — At  the  dawn  of  day  we  found  ourselves  within  about 
two  miles  of  the  passage  that  led  from  the  lagoon  into  the  open  ocean ; 
and  at  7,  A.  M.,  we  were  once  more  clear  of  the  "  Massacre  Islands"  as 
we  concluded  to  name  the  group,  one  of  them  being  baptized  in  the  blood 
of  our  brethren.  We  put  to  sea  with  a  fine  breeze  from  east-south-east, 
and  fair  weather. 

The  following  are  the  names  of  the  omhappy  victims  of  savage 
treachery  and  cannibal  ferocity:  viz.  John  A.  Wallace,  trading  officer, 
belonging  to  Newcastle,  E  ngland  ;  Henry  Wiley,  second  officer,  of 
Charlestown.  Massachusetts  ;  Joseph  Hicks,  armorer,  of  England ; 
George  Cartwright,  carpenter,  of  England ;  Thomas  Parker,  carpenter, 
of  England  :  Seamen, — George  Webb,  of  London  ;  James  Butler,  of 
Liverpool ;  Samuel  Wood,  of  England  ;  Thomas  Barnard,  of  Bristol, 
England  ;  George  Strong,  of  Albany,  New- York  ;  Alexander  Mooney, 
of  New- York ;  Stephen  de  la  Cruz,  a  native  of  Manilla.  The 
names  of  the  wounded  seamen  are,  John  Keeler,  of  New- York ; 
William  Vanduzer,  of  New- York ;  Leonard  Shaw,  of  Philadelphia, 
and  John  Harris,  of  England. 

The  booty  which  this  tragical  affair  threw  into  the  possession  of  the 
natives  consisted  of  the  following  valuable  articles :  viz.  one  whale- 
boat,  thirty  casks  and  barrels,  a  number  of  muskets,  pistols,  cutlasses, 
boarding-pikes,  axes,  hatchets,  cartridge-boxes,  shovels,  crowbars, 
carpenter's  tools,  blacksmith's  forge  and  tools,  and  a  quantity  of  cord- 
age and  blocks,  which  had  been  taken  on  shore,  to  assist  in  raising  the 
frame  of  the  house  ;  besides  a  chain  cable  of  ninety  fathoms,  inch 
iron,  and  anchor  of  one  thousand  pounds,  which  lay,  and  probably 
still  lies,  in  more  than  fifteen  fathoms  of  water, 


June.]  ARRIVE  AT  MANILLA.  4^5 

June  2d. — On  Saturday,  the  29th,  at  3,  P.  M.,  (nautical  time,)  we 
took  our  departure  from  the  Massacre  Islands,  bearing  south-by- 
west,  distant  three  leagues,  and  steered  to  the  north  and  west,  with 
moderate  breezes  from  south-east  to  east,  and  fair  weather.  On 
Wednesday,  the  2d  day  of  June,  at  7,  P.  M.,  we  crossed  the  equator, 
in  the  long,  of  152°  27'  east.  From  that  time,  we  had  Hght  variable 
winds,  attended  with  heavy  falls  of  rain,  until  Tuesday,  the  8th,  when 
we  took  the  north-east  trade-winds,  in  lat.  6°  15'  north,  long.  150° 
10'  east. 

We  continued  steering  to  the  north  and  west,  with  moderate  north- 
east trades  and  fine  weather,  until  2,  A.  M.,  on  Monday,  the  21st, 
when  we  saw  the  island  of  St.  Barnardino,  lying  at  the  eastern  en- 
trance of  the  strait  of  the  same  name,  bearing  west-by-south,  distant 
one  league.  This  was  the  first  and  only  land  we  had  seen  since  leaving 
the  Massacre  Isknds ;  constantly  keeping  two  men  at  the  mast-head, 
day  and  night,  one  on  the  end  of  the  bowsprit,  and  one  on  the  jib-boom. 
At  3,  A.  ]M.,  we  were  within  the  strait  of  St.  Barnardino,  or  the  strait 
of  Manilla. 

June  26th. — We  continued  on  our  passage,  through  this  strait,  with 
light  variable  winds,  and  calms,  attended  with  rain-squalls,  until 
Saturday  morning,  the  26th  of  June  ;  when  we  arrived  at  Manilla,  and 
anchored,  at  7,  A.  M.,  one  mile  ofi-shore,  in  four  fathoms  of  water, 
muddy  bottom,  with  the  flag-staff  on  the  citadel  bearing  east-by-north. 
At  8,  A.  M.,  we  received  the  health-ofiicer's  usual  visit,  and  at  the 
same  time  my  wife  came  on  board,  in  the  boat  of  the  captain  of  the 
port,  attended  by  our  worthy  friend  Mr.  Cannell.  My  feelings  on  this 
occasion  can  be  better  conceived  than  described.  Independent  of  my 
recent  misfortunes,  other  circumstances,  with  which  it  is  inexpedient 
and  unnecessary  to  acquaint  the  reader,  rendered  this  meeting,  ex- 
tremely afiecting. 

AVe  now  embarked  for  the  shore  with  cheerful  and  exhilarated  spirits  ; 
but  what  was  my  surprise,  on  landing  at  the  custom-wharf,  to  find 
the  collectors  carriage  waiting  to  convey  us  to  our  residence.  This 
worthy  man,  together  with  our  mutual  friend  the  captain  of  the  port, 
after  expressing  the  greatest  sympathy  for  our  afilictions,  handed  my 
wife  into  the  carriage,  where  we  all  took  our  seats,  and  in  a  few  mo- 
ments were  safely  set  down  at  the  residence  of  my  excellent  friend 
Cannell.  After  remaining  about  half  an  hour  with  us,  the  collector 
and  captain  rose  to  take  their  leave,  first  giving  me  and  my  wife  a  very 
polite  and  pressing  invitation  to  call  and  spend  a  few  days  with  them. 
Their  parting  salutation  was  a  warm  pressure  of  the  hand,  with  the 
words — "  God  bless  you  both." 

I  now  made  known  my  deplorable  situation  and  circumstances  to 
jMr.  Cannell,  and  wished  him  to  advance  me  sufficient  funds  to  pur- 
chase provisions  for  a  crew  of  ninety  men,  for  ten  or  twelve  months. 
This  noble-hearted  gentleman,  ever  ready  to  assist  his  fellow-creatures 
in  distress,  instantly  agreed  to  let  me  have  what  money  he  had,  which 
he  feared  would  not  be  sufficient  for  my  purpose,  as  he  had  just  pur- 
chased and  paid  for  a  large  cargo  of  pearl-shell  and  a  quantity  of  tor- 
toise-shell.    But  all  he  had  was  at  my  service,  for  which  he  would  only 


416  MANILLA— PREPARATIONS  FOR  SAILING.  [1830. 

charp:c  six  per  cent,  per  annum.  I  agreed  to  liis  kiinl  ofTer,  and  immedi- 
ately commenced  making  arrangements  for  returning  to  the  Massacre 
Islands. 

Before  I  had  proceeded  far  in  these  preparations,  however,  I  wrote 
to  General  Requorfort,  who  was  then  commander-in-chief  of  Luconia, 
and  all  its  dependencies,  for  permission  to  ship  fifty  natives  of  Manilla, 
to  complete  my  crew.  His  excellency  answered  my  letter  very 
promptly  and  politely,  stating  that  he  had  taken  my  misfortmies  into 
consideration;  and  that  although  it  was  contrary  to  the  laws  of  the 
port  to  take  more  than  one-third  of  the  crew  natives  of  Manilla,  yet 
he  would  allow  me  to  ship  one  or  two  hundred  Manilla-men,  if  I 
wished  for  that  number. 


CHAPTER  Vn. 

Sail  from  Manilla  for  the  Massacre  Islands — The  Bay  and  Town  of  Taal — Port 
and  Town  of  St.  Joseph'^ — Ladrone  Islands — Arrive  at  Bergh's  Group — 
Friendship  of  the  Natives — Their  Canoes,  Fishing  Implements,  &c. — Beauty 
of  the  Women — Strength  and  Agility  of  the  Men — Theological  Notions — 
Marriages,  Deaths,  Wars,  &c. — Description  of  their  Weapons,  Houses,  and  Vil- 
lages— Domestic  Arrangements — Fertility  and  Capabilities  of  the  Soil — Im- 
portance of  this  Discovery — Equipments  necessary  for  a  Voyage  to  these 
Islands — Depart  for  the  Massacre  Islands. 

In  discovering  the  Massacre  Islands,  and  examining  the  reefs  and 
shoals  which  surround  them,  I  had  gained  the  knowledge  of  one  im- 
portant fact ;  which,  though  dearly  purchased,  was  not  the  less  valuable 
and  interesting  10  the  votaries  of  commerce  and  science.  I  had  as- 
certained, beyond  the  possibility  of  a  doubt,  that  these  islands  could 
furnish  the  valuable  productions  of  which  I  was  in  search,  in  greater 
quantities,  and  of  far  superior  quality,  than  could  be  obtained  at  the 
Feejee  Islands  (our  original  destination),  or  at  any  other  group  which 
I  had  ever  yet  visited.  I  therefore  considered  it  a  duty  which  I  owed 
to  my  employers,  to  my  country,  and  to  myself,  to  return  immediately 
to  the  Massacre  Islands,  with  adequate  means  to  ensure  success ;  and 
to  redeem,  in  some  measure  at  least,  the  losses  and  disasters  which 
had  hitherto  attended  this  ill-fated  enterprise. 

But  I  was  also  actuated  by  another  motive,  with  which  pecuniary 
considerations  had  not  the  most  distant  connexion ;  and  weighed  with 
which  they  were  "  lighter  than  the  dust  in  the  balance."  The  impres- 
sion was  deeply  engraven  on  my  mind  that  one  or  more  of  the  unfor- 
tunate fourteen  might  have  possibly  escaped  the  general  massacre, 
and  be  now  enduring  "  the  horrors  of  a  living  death,"  as  captives  to 
tho'se  ferocious  blood-hounds.  This  idea  still  haunted  me  day  and 
night.  It  was  constantly  seated  like  an  incubus  upon  my  breast, 
and  I  felt  that  nothing  could  remove  it  but  a  speedy  return  to  the  scene 
of  blood.     This  impression  originated  in  the  following  facts  : 

The  work  of  destruction  had  but  just  commenced,  when  three  of  our 
working-party  had  beon  seen  to  fly  from  the  beach  towards  the  woods, 


July.]  LEAVE  MANILLA.  '  417 

closely  pursued  by  the  demons  of  blood,  who  overtook  and  butchered 
two  upon  the  spot.  The  third,  it  was  believed,  had  outstripped  his 
pursuers,  and  entered  the  woods  with  his  axe  in  his  hand.  The  bare 
possibility  of  this  man  being  still  living,  was  sufficient  inducement  for 
me  to  persevere  in  the  design  I  had  formed.  For  this  purpose  I  had 
exerted  every  nerve  in  making  the  necessary  preparations  ;  having,  by 
permission  of  the  Luconian  government,  shipped  the  requisite  number 
of  hands,  and  obtained  an  adequate  supply  of  provisions,  water,  and 
naval  stores ;  so  that  in  twenty-two  days  from  the  time  I  arrived  at 
Manilla,  the  Antarctic  was  again  ready  for  sea. 

July  \Sth. — On  the  evening  of  Sunday,  the  18th  of  July,  several 
merchants  and  ship-masters,  of  different  nations,  called  on  me,  and 
endeavoured  to  dissuade  me  from  my  hazardous  enterprise.  The  chief 
weight  of  their  arguments,  however,  was  based  on  the  fact  of  my  hav- 
ing so  great  a  proportion  of  Manilla-men  in  my  crew  ;  there  being  sixty- 
six  of  the  former,  and  only  nineteen  Americans.  They  predicted  that 
I  would  not  live  to  return  again  to  Manilla,  but  be  cut  off  by  my  new 
recruits,  who  Avould  forcibly  take  possession  of  the  Antarctic,  and 
murder  all  the  Americans  who  refused  to  take  part  in  the  conspiracy. 
To  enforce  their  arguments,  they  repeated  a  great  number  of  legendary 
tales  of  fine  ships  that  had  been  cut  off  by  these  men,  in  some  instances 
even  when  there  were  only  two  or  three  of  them  on  board. 

In  reply,  I  gratefully  thanked  them  for  their  friendly  counsel ;  and 
assured  thejn,  that  while  in  the  conscientious  discharge  of  my  duty, 
death  had  no  terrors  for  me,  come  in  what  shape  he  would ;  that  the 
same  gracious  Being  who  had  preserved  me  from  the  cannibals  would 
protect  me  from  assassins  of  every  description  ;  and  that,  at  all  events, 
I  could  never  again  enjoy  life,  until  my  mind  was  relieved  from  its 
present  horrid  suspense.  Should  one  of  my  crew  be  still  living,  a 
captive  to  those  ruthless,  remorseless  cannibals,  what  must  have  been 
his  agonizing  distraction  of  mind  to  see  the  Antarctic  depart  for  ever 
from  his  view ;  what  must  be  his  hopeless  despondency  during  her 
lengthened  absence ;  what  would  be  his  ecstasy  of  delight  to  see  her 
return.  As  respected  the  danger,  I  heeded  it  not ;  for  I  could  say  with 
Caesar — 

"  Of  all  the  wonders  that  I  yet  have  heard, 
It  seems  to  me  most  strange  that  men  should  fear  ; 
Seeing  that  death,  a  necessary  end, 
Will  come  when  it  will  come." 

My  wife  was  prepared  to  accompany  me,  as  neither  of  us  was  will- 
ing to  endure  the  anxieties  and  apprehensions  of  another  separation, 
in  a  distant  region  of  the  globe,  not  less  than  fifteen  thousand  miles 
from  her  native  home.  We  therefore  took  an  affectionate  leave  of  all 
our  friends  at  Manilla,  and  soon  found  ourselves  on  board  the  fast-sailing 
Antarctic,  whose  white  canvass  was  unfurled  and  her  anchor  apeak. 

July  I9th. — On  Monday  the  19th,  at  eleven,  P.  M.,  (nautical  time), 
we  got  under  way,  with  a  light  breeze  from  the  east-north-east,  attended 
with  fair  weather;  at  three,  A.  M.,  we  passed  the  Corregidor,  and 
steered  for  the  Strait  of  Manilla,  or  St.  Barnardino,  which  we  entered 
at  one,  P.  M. 

Dd 


418  BAY  AND  TOWN  OF  TAAL.  [1830. 

I  was  now  very  much  amused  with  the  curiosity,  vivacity,  and  ac- 
tivity of  my  wife,  who  was  almost  constantly  on  deck,  with  her  drawing 
apparatus,  sketchmg  ditlcrent  views  of  the  islands  as  we  passed  them ; 
and  the  hundreds  of  native-built  boats,  bound  to  and  from  Manilla,  some 
of  which  were  striking  specimens  of  clumsy  naval  architecture,  and 
still  worse  rigging.  Her  spirits,  so  long  depressed,  v.-ere  now  buoyant 
as  the  air,  and  she  flitted  about  the  vessel  like  some  ethereal  form  from 
a  higher  sphere.  I  found  my  own  mental  temperament  much  improved 
by  the  influence  of  her  society ;  her  sweetly  smiling  vivacity  and  ex- 
uberance of  spirits  operated  on  my  own  feelings  like  a  charm — I  was 
insensibly  awakened  from  my  despondency,  hope  was  rekindled  in  my 
bosom,  and,  as  far  as  respected  myself,  I  could  contemplate  my  recent 
misfortimes  whhout  a  sigh  of  regret.  The  safety  of  the  Antarctic  was 
identified  with  that  of  one  who  was  dearer  to  me  than  life.  What 
stronger  security  could  exist  for  the  care  and  vigilance  of  her  com- 
mander !  Were  I  a  merchant  and  a  ship-owner,  so  far  from  opposing 
the  wishes  of  an  afTectionate  wife  who  would  accompany  her  husband 
on  a  long  and  hazardous  voyage,  I  would  recommend  such  a  measure 
to  every  ship-master  in  my  employ,  and  consider  it  of  more  value  to  my 
interest  than  the  policy  of  ensurance. 

July  20th. — At  2,  P.  M.,  we  passed  along  the  mouth  or  entrance  of 
the  bay  of  Taal,  which  presents  some  delightful  scenery,  and  afTords 
many  magniticent  views,  to  such  as  have  leisure  to  sail  about  in  quest 
of  them.  It  is  about  twelve  miles  in  circumference,  of.  a  shape  ap- 
proaching the  circular,  and  its  winding  shores,  on  both  sides,  are 
screened  with  grand  ramparts  of  rocks  and  red  clay-banks.  At  the 
head  of  the  bay,  in  the  centre,  between  these  bulwarks  of  nature,  the 
country  descends  to  the  shore  \\\\\i  a  gentle  slope,  forming  a  beautiful 
vale,  which  falls  with  a  gradual  and  easy  descent  to  the  sandy  beach 
which  lines  that  section  of  the  circle.  All  around  this  delightful  sheet 
of  water  the  land  is  covered  with  trees,  even  on  the  rocks  of  its 
■western  shores,  wherever  they  can  obtain  footing  or  shelter ;  but  on 
the  eastern  side  of  the  bay  they  grow  with  great  luxuriance. 

On  the  gentle  declivity  just  mentioned,  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  stands 
the  celebrated  town  of  Taal.  The  tasteful  eye  which  selected  the  site 
could  not  have  anywhere  rested  on  a  more  delicious  spot.  Hills 
crowned  with  wood,  and  beautiful  valleys  covered  with  fruitful  planta- 
tions, greet  the  eye  on  every  side ;  wliile  in  frojit  of  this  little  town 
0])ens  the  wide-spreading  T)ay,  with  its  rocky  and  clayey  banks  bend- 
ing round  it,  reflecting  all  the  variety  of  light  and  shade  which  the  sun 
in  its  circling  course  throws  profusely  upon  it.  In  this  secluded  re- 
treat dwells  a  society  of  monks,  safely  remote  from  the  noise  and 
vices  of  the  turbulent  world,  dwelling  in  peaceful  security,  and  fearing 
no  harm  or  molestation  from  the  native  Tagalians,  over  whom  their 
influence  is  unbounded.  This  town  is  resorted  to  by  a  few  fashion- 
ables in  the  summer  season,  as  a  watering-place ;  and  a  more  pleasant 
one  could  scarcely  be  selected. 

July  23d. — We  continued  on  our  passage  through  the  strait,  with 
variable  winds,  and  fair  weather,  until  Friday,  the  23d,  when,  at  7, 
F.  M.,  we  came  to  anchor  on  the  east  side  of  the  island  of  Sackathi 


Aug.]  ST.  JOSEPH'S— ISLAND  OF  GUAM.  419 

neo,  in  the  port  of  St.  Joseph,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  clay  bottom ; 
and  on  the  following  day  we  commenced  building  a  whale-boat,  thirty- 
five  feet  in  length  and  eight  feet  wide,  which  we  completed  on  Thurs- 
day, tlie  29th. 

This  basin  is  one  of  the  safest  places  for  a  ship  to  lie  in  to  refit 
that  there  is  in  the  known  world.  The  entrance,  which  is  formed  by 
two  bluff  points,  is  not  more  than  one  cable*s  length  wide,  with  five 
fathoms  of  water  in  the  passage  ;  but  after  passing  within  these  two 
points,  a  scene  suddenly  opens  upon  the  view,  with  a  very  imposing 
efl'ect.  The  stranger  finds  himself  in  a  beautiful  smooth  basin,  the 
shape  of  which  is  an  exact  circle,  of  one  mile  in  diameter,  containing 
from  three  to  seven  fathoms  of  water  in  every  part  of  it ;  and  in  many 
places  the  water  is  bold  close  to  the  beach.  A  small  river  and  several 
brooks  run  into  this  harbour  from  the  adjacent  mountains,  and  supply 
the  town  with  excellent  water.  ' 

The  town  itself  is  built  on  a  winding  peninsula,  the  extremity  of 
which  forms  the  south  point  of  the  bay ;  and  on  the  most  elevated 
part  of  the  latter  is  a  fort,  mounting  six  eighte en-pounders,  which  com- 
pletely commands  the  entrance  of  the  harbour.  Next  to  this  fortress  is 
a  church,  and  a  little  farther  up  the  peninsula  stands  the  town  of  St. 
Joseph,  fronting  the  harbour,  and  containing  about  two  hundred  houses, 
and  eight  hundred  inhabitants,  who  are  governed  by  the  laws  of  Ma- 
nilla. The  houses  are  all  built  of  bamboos,  and  thatched  whh  a  kind 
of  strong  coarse  grass  that  is  common  to  the  country.  This  town  or 
village  is  almost  entirely  shaded  with  cocoanut  and  other  fruit  trees, 
■which  render  the  walks  delightfully  pleasant,  and  gives  to  the  whole 
prospect  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  appearance.  The  surrounding 
country-  is  admirably  diversified  with  hills,  valleys,  forests,  and  grazing 
plains.  Tobacco  and  hemp  are  cultivated  here  in  considerable  quan- 
tities, and  shipped  to  the  Manilla  market.  Refreshments  of  all  kinds 
may  be  had  at  this  port  at  the  shortest  notice,  and  on  liberal  terms. 
The  inhabitants  of  both  sexes,  like  those  of  Manilla,  are  much  ad- 
dicted to  the  barbarous  amusement  of  cock-fighting,  and  make  heavy 
bets  on  the  result  of  the  battle.  ' 

Juli/  29th. — On  Thursday,  the  29th,  at  11,  A.  M.,  we  got  under  way, 
and  steered  towards  the  eastern  entrance  of  the  strait,  with  a  fine 
breeze  from  east-south-east,  and  fair  weather.  On  Saturday,  the  31st, 
we  once  more  found  ourselves  clear  of  the  Philippines ;  and  at  7,  A. 
M.,  we  took  our  departure  from  Cape  Espiritu  Santo,  bearing  west- 
south-west,  distant  ten  leagues,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  north-by-east, 
and  fair  weather.  We  continued  making  the  best  of  our  way  to  the 
eastward,  taking  advantage  of  the  winds,  which  frequently  hauled  from 
north-north-east  to  east,  and  back  again.  This  gave  us  a  very  good 
chance  for  making  easting,  which  we  did  not  fail  to  improve. 

August  12/A.— On  Thursday,  the  12th  of  August,  at  6,  A.  M.,  we 
were  close  in  with  the  west  side  of  the  island  of  Guam,  which  is  the 
principal  of  a  group  called  the  Ladrone  Islands,  situated  in  the  North 
Pacific  Ocean,  between  the  eleventh  and  twenty-eighth  degrees  of 
north  latitude,  and  about  140^  east  longhude.     Their  number  has  been 

Dd2 


420  LADRONE  ISLANDS.  [1830. 

variously  stated,  froiii  eleven  to  sixteen ;  and  the  names  of  the  princi- 
pal ones  are  Guam,  Saypan,  Tinian,  and  Rota. 

These  islands  were  discovered  in  the  year  1521,  by  Magellan,  who 
called  them  Islas  de  Ladrones  (Islands  of  Thieves),  because  the^  na- 
tives stole  every  thing  made  of  iron  which  they  could  lay  their  hands 
on.  Towards  the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century,  however,  they  re- 
ceived the  name  of  Mariana  or  Marianne  Islands^  from  the  Queen  of 
Spain,  Mary  Ann,  of  Austria,  mother  of  Charles  II.,  at  whose  expense 
missionaries  were  sent  over  thither,  to  propagate  the  Christian  faith. 
At  that  period  these  islands  were  very  populous  ;  but  Spanish  oppres- 
sion has  since  almost  annihilated  the  whole  race  ;  so  that,  with  tlie  ex- 
ception of  Guam,  every  island  of  the  group  has  become  desolate. 

Few  nations  have  had  it  in  their  power  to  do  so  much  good  to  the 
cause  of  philanthropy  and  religion  as  Spain ;  but  from  a  mistaken 
policy  in  the  exercise  of  this  power,  none  have  done  so  much  mischief. 
The  propagation  of  any  religious  creed  by  force  of  arms  is  the  climax 
of  despotism ;  so  monstrous  in  itself,  and  so  utterly  at  variance  with 
the  benign  precepts  of  the  Gospel,  that  did  not  the  melancholy  facts 
stare  us  full  in  the  face  from  the  page  of  history,  we  could  scarcely 
believe  that  it  was  ever  attempted  by  a  Christian  nation.  It  is  tliis 
•  mistaken  policy  of  Spain  and  Portugal  that  has  enslaved  or  depopu- 
lated some  of  the  fairest  portions  of  the  globe.  The  Ladrone  Islands 
are  m-elancholy  evidences  of  the  truth  of  this  assertion. 

On  this  subject  I  w'ish  to  be  correctly  understood.  The  reader  must 
certainly  be  aware  by  this  time  that  I  am  a  strong  advocate  for  the 
prosecution  of  missionary  labours ;  for  I  have  experienced  the  bene- 
ficial results  of  their  exertions.  But  I  wish  to  see  those  labours  so  ap- 
plied as  to  produce  the  greatest  possible  amount  of  good  deducible 
from  the  extent  of  means  employed.  The  arts  of  civilization  should 
always  be  taught  first ;  they  are  the  best  and  the  only  proper  pioneers 
to  the  doctrines  of  Christianity.  The  great  Founder  and  Head  of  the 
Christian  religion  said  to  Nicodemus,  then  about  becoming  a  proselyte, 
*'  If  I  have  told  you  of  earthly  things,  and  ye  believe  not,  how  shall 
ye  believe  if  I  tell  you  of  heavenly  things  ?"  How  can  the  natives  of 
a  newly  discovered  island  in  the  Pacific  be  persuaded  that  the  Creator 
of  the  universe  has  given  his  creatures  a  code  of  written  laws,  unless 
they  are  first  made  to  comprehend  what  writing  is,  what  law  is,  and 
what  a  code  is  ?  When  the  most  ignorant  savages  once  become  con- 
vinced  that  a  missionary  can  teach  them  to  be  more  happy  in  this 
world,  they  will  place  the  greater  confidence  in  what  he  says  of  happi- 
ness and  misery  in  the  world  to  come.  If  they  are  not  first  induced 
to  love  a  brother  whom  they  have  seen,  how  can  they  be  taught  to  love 
God,  whom  they  have  not  seen  ? 

A  missionary  should  go  armed — not  with  military  weapons,  nor  with 
faith  alone — but  with  a  judicious  and  ample  collection  of  mechanical 
tools  and  agricultural  implements.  With  these  he  should  commence 
his  labours  of  love  and  usefulness.  His  early  communications  to  the 
society  who  sends  him  on  the  mission  should  not  contain  an  account 
of  the  number  of  new  converts  who  had  professed  the  Christian  faith, 
and  received  the  outward  washing  of  water,  but  they  should  contain 


Aug.]  BERGH'S  GROUP.  421 

sentiments  similar  to  those  which  Kotzebuehas  put  in  the  mouth  of  the 
captive  Alonzo,  ^vhen  addressing  the  tyrant  Pizarro  : — 

"  I  would  gently  lead  the  good  Las  Casas  by  the  hand  through  all  the 
lovely  fields  of  Quito ;  there  in  many  a  spot  where  late  was  barren- 
ness and  waste,  I  would  show  him  how  now  the  openmg  blossom, 
blade,  or  perfumed  bud,  sweet  bashful  pledges  of  delicious  harvest, 
wafting  their  influence  to  the  ripening  sun,  give  cheerful  promise  of  the 
hope  of  industr}'.  This,  I  would  say,  is  my  v:ork  !  Next  I  should  tell 
how  hurtful  customs  and  supersthions,  strange  and  sullen,  would  often 
puzzle  and  dismay  the  credulous  minds  of  these  deluded  innocents  ; 
and  then  would  I  point  out  to  him,  where  now  in  clustered  villages  they 
live  like  brothers,  social  and  confiding,  while  through  the  burning  day 
content  sits  basking  on  the  cheek  of  toil,  till  laughing  pastime  leads 
them  to  the  hour  of  rest ;  this  too  is  mine  !  And  prouder  yet,  at  that 
still  pause  between  exertion  and  repose,  belonging  not  to  pastime, 
labour,  or  to  rest,  but  unto  Him  who  sajictions  and  ordains  them  all,  I 
would  show  him  many  an  eye  and  many  a  hand  by  gentleness  from 
error  won,  raised  in  pure  devotion  to  the  true  and  only  God." 

The  Hebrews  were  but  semi-barbarians  when  they  were  emancipated 
from  Egyptian  slavery,  and  all  the  rest  of  the  world  were  idolaters.  But 
even  this  chosen  people  of  the  Most  High  were  not  sufficiently  ad- 
vanced in  civilization  to  receive  the  genuine  doctrines  of  theology  and 
practical  religion  as  they  were  taught  two  thousand  years  afterward, 
in  that  divine  discourse  of  the  Saviour  called  the  Sermon  on  the  Mount. 
The  lesson  to  them  was,  "  Hear,  O  Israel !  the  Lord  our  God  is  one 
Lord  :"  for  this  was  all  they  could  comprehend  in  that  stage  of  their 
existence.  After  the  lapse  of  twenty  centuries,  a  very  small  number 
of  these  people  were  found  who  could  receive  the  doctrine  of  the 
Trinity.  These  were  then  taught  what  their  ancestors  could  not  have 
received,  that  anger  was  murder,  that  lust  was  adultery,  that  covetous- 
ness  was  theft,  and  that  they  must  love  their  enemies. 

Why  should  not  the  same  gradual  process  be  adopted  with  respect 
to  the  conversion  of  the  South  Sea  islanders  ?  They  are  no  more  pre- 
pared to  receive  all  the  evangelical  doctrines  of  the  Gospel  than  the 
Jews  were  when  worshipping  the  golden  calf  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
Sinai.  It  is  true  the  apostles  made  most  of  their  Christian  converts 
among  the  gentiles ;  but  let  it  be  recollected  that  these  gentiles  were 
principally  Greeks  and  Romans,  at  that  time  the  most  refined,  enlight- 
ened, and  learned  nations  on  the  earth ;  much  better  capacitated  than 
the  Jews  for  receiving  the  true  doctrine.  But  I  am  steering  out  of  my 
track,  and  will  return  to  the  Ladrone  Islands. 

August  2Sth. — From  the  Ladrone  Islands  we  steered  to  the  south 
and  east,  until  Saturday,  the  28th  of  August,  when  we  came  to  anchor, 
at  six,  P.  M.,  within  the  coral  reef  that  surrounds  Bergh's  Group ; 
before  our  anchor  had  fairly  taken  the  ground,  we  were  visited  by 
many  of  our  old  friends,  all  of  whom  appeared  to  be  very  much  pleased 
to  see  ns  again  ;  and  as  a  token  of  their  friendship,  they  presented  us 
with  cocoanuts,  bread-fruit,  and  bananas  ;  in  return  for  which  we  made 
them  presents  of  beads,  knives,  scissors,  looking-glasses,  and  a  few 
China  trinkets. 


422  BERGH'S  GROUP.  [1830, 

On  the  following  morning,  before  eight,  A.  M.,  we  might  have  walked 
half  a  mile  from  the  vessel  on  the  tops  of  canoes,  at  all  points  of  the 
compass.  Every  canoe  contained  a  quantity  of  cocoanuts,  bread-fruit, 
plantains,  bananas,  and  jack-fruit ;  part  of  which  we  purchased,  and 
paid  for  in  the  China  beads.  By  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  had 
more  of  these  fruits  thin  we  had  room  for  on  deck,  the  whole  not 
costing  more  than  two  dollars'  worth  of  beads. 

The  natives  were  so  well  satisfied  with  the  liberal  manner  in  which 
we  had  paid  them,  that  they  persisted  in  throwing  fruit  upon  deck  for 
some  time  after  we  requested  them  to  stop.  They  seemed  to  be  deter- 
mined not  to  be  outdone  in  liberality,  or  fearful  that  they  should  not 
sufficiently  compensate  us  for  the  articles  we  had  given  them,  which 
they  considered  of  inestimable  value.  These  people  are  certainly  the 
most  interesting  in  their  manners,  the  most  active  in  their  movements^ 
and  the  most  pleasing  in  their  countenances,  of  any  race  of  aborigines 
on  any  island  I  have  ever  visited ;  and  the  nautical  skill  with  which 
they  manage  their  canoes  is  truly  astonishing ;  but  not  more  so  than 
the  ingenuity  with  which  they  are  plamied  and  constructed,  of  which 
I  will  attempt  a  brief  description. 

The  canoes  of  these  natives  are  mostly  of  great  length,  carrying  from 
fifteen  to  thirty  men.  The  bottom  is  of  one  stick,  or  log,  generally 
from  thirty  to  fifty  feet  in  length,  and  got  out  in  the  form  of  a  canoe, 
with  no  other  tools  but  such  as  are  made  of  shells,  &;c.  On  this  founda- 
tion they  proceed  to  build  the  vessel.  Each  side  is  formed  of  a  single 
plank  or  slab,  from  fourteen  to  eighteen  inches  in  width,  making  the 
depth  of  the  boat ;  but  the  two  sides  are  not  alike,  one  being  nearly- 
flat  and  straight  next  the  water,  and  the  other  somewhat  bulging.  These 
sides  are  sewed  fast  to  the  bottom,  with  a  strong  cord  made  from  the 
bark  of.  a  tree,  and  also  to  a  beautifully  carved  head  and  stern,  resem- 
bling those  of  the  ancient  galleys  which  we  often  meet  with  in  classical 
paintings. 

As  these  canoes  are  frequently  propelled  by  sails,  and  as  the  bulging 
side  is  always  to  windward,  the  reader  will  naturally  suppose  that  it 
could  not  long  retain  an  upright  position,  but  would  be  liable  to  upset. 
This  is  prevented,  however,  by  a  very  ingenious  contrivance.  A  frame, 
called  an  outrigger,  projects  out  eight  or  ten  feet  horizontally  from  the 
rounding,  bulging,  or  windward  side,  at  the  extreme  end  of  which  is 
attached  a  piece  of  buoyant  wood,  shaped  something  like  a  canoe.  The 
weight  of  this  apparatus  prevents  the  boat's  capsizing  to  leeward,  while 
that  side  being  flat  prevents  her  making  lee-way.  At  the  same  time 
the  buoyancy  of  the  outrigger  and  bamboo  frame  renders  it  impossible 
for  her  to  overset  to  windward.  This  is  the  form  and  construction  of 
their  single  canoes,  which  go  through  the  water  with  great  velocity, 
whether  propelled  by  paddles  or  sails,  or  both. 

Their  double  canoes  are  formed  in  the  same  manner  as  the  one  just 
described,  with  the  exception  of  the  out-rigger,  which  of  course  is  not 
necessary.  Two  canoes  are  fastened  together  abreast  of  each  other, 
with  bamboos  extended  across  them,  on  the  same  principle  of  construc- 
tion as  our  twin  ferry-steamboats.  These  canoes  are  generally  about 
forty  feet  in  length,  and  the  distance  between  them  is  from  eight  to  ten 


Aug.]  WAR  CANOES.  423" 

feet.  The  bamboos  which  unite  them  are  placed  about  two  feet  apart, 
and  strongly  secured  to  the  gunnels  Hy  a  lashing  of  their  bark  cord. 
Small  sticks  of  bamboo  are  then  extended  fore  and  aft,  secured  to  the 
cross  pieces,  tlius  forming  a  light  platform,  from  twenty  to  twenty-five 
feet  in  length,  and  eight  or  ten  feet  wide.  They  paddle  on  the  two 
outsides  and  insides  of  the  canoes,  propelling  them  forward  with  aston- 
ishing speed,  much  swifter  than  our  whale-boats  with  six  oars,  pulled- 
by  our  most  vigorous  tars.  These  are  (failed  their  war  canoes,  and 
iwany  of  them  have  very  curiously  carved  heads  and  sterns,  which  rise 
from  one  to  three  feet  above  the  hull,  not  unlike  the  fashion  of  the 
New-Zealanders.  Their  paddles  are  generally  four  feet  in  length, 
with  blades  about  six  inches  wide,  the  whole  very  neatly  finished  off 
with  carved  work,  admirably  executed. 

Their  sails  for  the  single  canoes  are  made  like  their  own  garments, 
of  a  beautiful  long  grass,  which  they  have  the  art  of  weaving  into  a 
strong  substantial  cloth,  suitable  for  all  their  ordinary  purposes.  These 
sails  are  shaped  like  what  is  called  a  "  shoulder-of-mutton  sail,"  and 
used  in  the  following  manner.  The  mast  stands  exactly  perpendicu- 
lar, in  the  centre  of  the  canoe,  being  from  twelve  to  eighteen  feet  in 
height.  At  the  head  of  this  mast  is  hoisted  a  yard,  proportioned  to  the 
"size  of  the  canoe,  from  twenty-five  to  thirty-five  feet  in  length.  The 
sail  spreads  this  yard,  and  when  hoisted  at  the  mast-head,  its  foot 
sweeps  the  gunnel  of  the  canoe.  These  sails  are  cut  in  such  a  manner, 
that  the  canoes  never  need  go  in  stays  when  beating  to  windward, 
being  so  constructed  as  to  go  either  end  foremost.  When  they  wish 
to  go  on  the  other  tack,  she  suddenly  falls  ofi'  until  the  other  end  of  the 
boat  becomes  the  head,  and  luffs  up  to  the  wind ;  by  which  time  the 
men  have  raised  the  tack  on  the  depressed  end  of  the  5'^ard,  and  brought 
its  opposite  extremity  down  to  the  other  end  of  the  boat.  Thus  she 
hugs  the  wind  on  either  side  by  turns,  without  ever  looking  directly  in 
its  teeth. 

I  have  seen  these  boats  going  at  the  rate  of  eight  miles  an  hour, 
within  four  points  of  the  wind.  But  let  them  run  large,  or  before  the 
wind,  with  a  strong  breeze,  and  I  have  no  doubt  but  they  will  go  at  the 
rate  of  twelve  or  thirteen  miles  an  hour,  in  smooth  water.  By  only- 
shifting  the  sail,  with  a  side  wind,  these  canoes  will  pass,  back  and 
forth,  between  two  islands,  each  end  alternately  foremost,  with  great 
rapidity,  without  the  necessity  of  putting  about.  The  sails,  as  I  ob- 
served, are  made  of  the  same  kind  of  stuff  as  their  wearing  apparel; 
but  it  is  made  much  stouter,  and  in  small  pieces  of  about  three  feet 
square,  sewed  together.  In  cutting  the  sail  to  its  proper  shape,  the 
pieces  which  come  off  one  side  answer  to  go  m\  the  other ;  this  gives 
it  the  proper  form,  and  causes  the  halliards  to  be  bent  on  in  the  middle 
of  the  yard. 

As  these  canoes  are  used  principally  in  fishing,  it  will  be  proper,  in 
this  place,  to  mention  their  implements  and  apparatus  for  that  business. 
Their  nets  and  seines  are  made  of  twine,  which  they  manufacture  from 
the  bark  of  a  tree.  The  meshes  are  about  an  inch  square,  and  the 
length  of  the  seine  from  fifteen  to  twenty  fathoms,  with  a  depth  of 
fifteen  to  eighteen  feet.     Instead  of  cork  floaters,  they  use  small  joints 


« 


N* 


424  BERGirS  GROUP.  [1830. 

of  the  bamboo,  and  for  lead  sinkers  they  substilute  small  smooth 
lieavy  stones.  Their  liooks  and  lines  are  also  very  ingeniously  con- 
structed ;  the  former  being  made  of  mother-of-pearl  shell  and  tor- 
toise-shell. The  pearl-shell  is  well  adapted  to  this  purpose,  as  hooks 
of  this  kind  require  no  bait ;  for  the  shining  property  of  the  shell  de- 
ceives the  fish,  which  darts  at  the  fatal  illusion,  and  swallows  it  without 
hesitation.  Their  lines  are  made  of  the  same  materials  as  their  nets  ; 
they  are  very  neatly  twisted^  and  of  great  strength.  As  this  people 
spend  a  great  portion  of  their  time  in  fishing,  they  think  it  but  a  trifle 
to  go  forty  or  fifty  miles  a  day  in  search  of  their  prey,  and  return  the 
same  evening. 

On  our  first  visit  to  these  islands,  I  stated  that  a  circle  of  about  forty 
small  islands  surrounded  several  larger  ones,  four  of  which  were  about 
thirty  miles  in  circumference.  Only  the  interior  islands  are  inhabited, 
and  they  contain  a  population  of  about  thirty-five  thousand,  divided  into 
two  distinct  races.  The  two  principal  westernmost  islands,  with  a  few 
small  ones,  are  peopled  by  a  copper-coloured  Indian  race;  while  the 
two  easternmost,  with  their  dependencies,  contain  a  race  more  nearly 
allied  to  the  negro  ;  and  they  frequently  make  war  upon  each  other,  as 
I  understood  from  both  parties,  although  they  were  now  at  peace,  and 
on  friendly  terms.  The  blacks  are  the  most  numerous,  being  about 
twenty  thousand  in  number,  while  the  Indians  do  not  exceed  fifteen 
thousand.  I  will  here  attempt  a  brief  description  of  both,  commencing 
with  the  negro  tribe,  on  the  two  easternmost  islands. 

In  stature  the  men  are  about  five  feet  ten  inches,  well  propor- 
tioned, muscular,  and  active ;  with  prominent  swelling  chests,  well- 
moulded  limbs,  and  small  feet  and  hands.  Their  hair  is  fine  and  much 
curled,  but  not  like  the  African's.  Their  foreheads  are  high  and  up- 
right, their  cheek-bones  elevated,  their  noses  well  formed,  and  their 
lips  moderately  thin.  They  have  beautiful  white  teeth,  broad  chins, 
short  thick  necks,  broad  shoulders,  and  small  ears,  standing  a  little 
more  off  from  the  head  than  ours.  Their  eyes  are  black,  bright,  quick, 
and  penetrating,  with  high  and  long  eyelashes.  The  general  expres- 
sion of  the  countenance  indicates  a  fierce  and  daring  temperament. 

Around  the  waist  or  loins  they  wear  a  mat,  made  of  the  bark  of  a 
tree,  handsomely  woven,  and  tastefully  ornamented  with  a  variety  of 
figures  of  different  colours.  They  also  wear  head  ornaments,  made 
of  the  same  materials,  beautifully  adorned  with  different  kinds  of  feath- 
ers ;  and  this,  when  placed  upon  tlie  head,  resembles  a  low  turban, 
surmounted  with  a  rich  and  gaudy  fringe.  The  chiefs  have  their  ears 
split,  or  the  rim  so  cut  as  to  present  a  large  opening,  in  which  they 
wear  blocks  of  very  light  wood,  often  as  big  as  a  man's  wrist.  This 
is  generally  tastefully  decorated  with  a  variety  of  beautiful  feathers, 
sharks'  teeth,  &c.  They  also  wear  about  their  necks  necklaces  of 
tortoise-shell,  pearl-shell,  and  tufts  of  fine  feathers.  Their  bodies  are 
very  much  tattooed,  and  the  operation  is  generally  executed  in  quite  a 
tasteful  manner,  having  the  appearance  of  armour.  They  paint  their 
hair  red,  and  their  faces  yellow  and  white  ;  except  \yhen  going  to  war, 
when  the  latter  are  painted  red,  to  heighten  their  ferocious  appearance. 

The  women  are  small  in  size,  with  very  handsome  delicate  features, 


Aug.]  #  THE  NATIVES.  425 

and  a  dark  sparkling  eye,  expressive  of  tenderness  and  affection.  They 
have  round  luxuriant  chests,  slender  waists,  small  hands  and  feet, 
straight  legs,  and  small  ankles.  In  short,  they  seem  to  be,  in  every 
respect,  admirably  "  fitted  for  the  tender  offices  of  love ;"  and,  settino- 
aside  our  innate  prejudice  to  certain  complexions,  their  personal  charms 
are  of  very  superior  order.  They  do  not,  however,  neglect  the  "  for- 
eign aid  of  ornament ;"  but  deck  themselves  M'ith  the  richest  feathers 
and  shells  they  can  obtain,  through  parental  and  fraternal  affection,  or 
the  gallantry  of  lovers  or  husbands.  Around  their  head  and  neck  they 
wear  many  kinds  of  ornaments,  made  of  the  spoils  of  birds  and  fishes  ; 
their  arms  and  legs  are  also  decorated  in  a  similar  manner,  while  their 
breasts  are  tastefully  but  very  lightly  tattooed.  They  likewise  wear  a 
small  apron,  eight  inches  wide,  and  twelve  inches  long,  which  they  in- 
geniously ornament  around  the  edges  in  a  very  pretty  manner,  with  a  dia- 
mond worked  in  the  centre,  of  little  choice  shells.  Over  all  they  wear 
a  cloak  or  mantle,  made  of  a  fine  silky  grass,  woven  with  great  skill 
and  neatness,  some  of  which  are  tastefully  bordered  and  fringed.  This 
garment  is  about  eight  feet  in  length,  and  six  feet  wide,  with  a  hole  in 
the  middle  just  large  enough  to  admit  the  head ;  and  when  worn,  it 
much  resembles  the  South  American  poncho. 

The  duties  and  avocations  of  the  females  consist  in  making  all  the 
clothing,  fishing-lines,  and  nets ;  cooking  the  food,  and  taking  care  of 
the  children;  which  latter  task  they  perform  with  exemplar)'  care, 
attention,  and  tenderness.  They  are  very  kind  and  affectionate  to 
their  husbands  ;  and  the  latter  in  return  treat  their  wives  with  a  delicacy 
and  respect  that  might  put  some  Christians  to  the  blush.  In  short,  they 
are  promising  subjects  for  the  operations  of.judicious  missionaries,  who 
attach  more  importance  to  practical  than  to  theoretical  religion. 

The  two  westernmost  islands,  as  I  have  said,  are  peopled  by  about 
fifteen  thousand  copper-coloured  Indians,  who  are  somewhat  less  in 
stature  than  the  negro  tribe  I  have  just  attempted  to  describe.  The 
men  are  generally  only  about  five  feet  eight  inches  in  height ;  but 
they  are  stouter,  stronger,  more  athletic,  and  better  calculated  for  war, 
and  enduring  hardships,  than  the  darker  skinned  tribe  just  alluded  to. 
They  are  very  active,  and  remarkably  strong.  I  have  seen  several  of 
them,  who  would  not  weigh  more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds 
each,  lift  our  small  bower  anchor,  weighing  upwards  of  six  hundred, 
with  apparently  as  much  ease  as  I  could  lift  a  hundred  weight ;  and  yet 
they  live  entirely  on  fruit  and  fish,  without  stimulants  of  any  descrip- 
tion. They  have  straight  round  bodies,  with  full  chests,  muscular 
limbs,  and  well-formed  hands  and  feet. 

Their  complexion  is  a  very  light  copper-colour  ;  their  hair  black  and 
long,  and  generally  neatly  "  done  up"  on  the  top  of  the  head.  They 
have  high  prominent  foreheads,  indicative  of  intellectual  capabilities, 
at  the  lower  edge  of  which,  especially  with  the  females,  are  a  pair  of 
long  jet-black  silken  eyelashes,  with  more  than  what  we  would  consider 
a  usual  curve.  These  are  merely  the  drapery  or  window-curtains  under 
which  the  soul  peeps  out  from  her  palace,  through  the  crystal  medium 
of  a  pair  of  bright  penetrating  black  eyes.  Their  faces  are  round, 
phr.np,  and   full ;  the  cheek-bones  not  being  so  high  as  is  usual  with 


426  BERGirS  GROUP.  (|fc  [l830. 

Other  savage  tribes.  They  have  a  handsome  nose,  moderately  elevated, 
with  a  mouth  well  proportioned  to  the  other  features  of  the  face,  and  a 
beautiful  set  of  teeth,  whiter  than  the  purest  ivory.  Dimpled  cheeks 
and  double  chins  are  common  to  the  young  of  both  sexes.  The  mea 
have  short  "tliick  necks,  the  front  part  of  which  is  generally  covered 
■with  a  long  black  beard,  which  is  permitted  to  grow  only  from  the  chin. 
Some  of  their  principal  chiefs,  however,  wear  very  large  mustachios* 
They  have  large  ears,  in  the  lower  part  of  which  is  a  slit  sufficiently 
large  for  the  reception  of  an  ornament  of  the  size  of  a  goose-egg.  This 
js  often  decorated  with  the  teeth  of  various  kinds  of  fish,  shells,  birds' 
bills,  feathers,  and  flowers  of  the  valleys.  They  also  wear  a  neck 
ornament  of  nearly  the  same  materials.  They  are  seldom  tattooed, 
excepting  from  the  lower  part  of  the  neck  to  the  pit  of  the  stomach ; 
which  is  often,  on  the  breast  of  a  chief,  one  uninterrupted  tattoo,  repre- 
senting various  imaginary  figures,  executed  with  much  taste  and  neat- 
ness. The  dress  of  both  sexes  is  like  that  of  their  eastern  neighbours,, 
from  which  it  does  not  vary  in  any  important  particular.  They  wear 
rings,  or  bracelets,  of  tortoise-shell  on  their  arms,  and  of  pearl-shell 
on  their  legs  and  ancles.  For  personal  cleanliness  they  may  defy 
competition  with  any  people  on  earth.  They  are  naturally  good- 
humoured,  friendly,  lively,  cheerful,  and  active  ;  uncommonly  kind  and 
aflfectionate  to  their  wives  and  children,  and'  pay  great  deference  and 
respect  to  age. 

The  women  generally  are  of  about  the  same  size  as  ours,  delicately 
formed,  with  very  slender  waists,  and  exquisitely  moulded  busts.  Their 
hands  and  feet  are  not  larger  than  those  of  our  children  at  twelve  years 
of  age  ;  and  I  have  frequently,  with  both  hands,  spanned  the  waists  of 
girls  of  eighteen  and  twenty  years  old.  They  are  marriageable  at  the 
age  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  rnoons,  which  is  about  twelve  years. 
They  have  small  heads,  high  foreheads,  large  black  eyes,  full  plump 
cheeks,  handsomely-formed  noses,  small  mouth,  and  its  never-failing 
appendage  in  this  part  of  the  world,  a  beautiful  set  of  teeth,  which  adds 
a  thousand  charms  to  each  bewitching  smile.  Their  ears  are  small, 
and  their  necks  very  delicately  formed,  back  of  which  flows  their  long 
black  hair,  when  not  done  up  on  the  back  of  the  head.  They  are  ex- 
tremely modest  and  sensitive  on  particular  subjects,  and  blushes  can 
frequently  be  seen  playing  through  the  darkness  of  their  complexions. 
Their  countenances  ever  express  vivacity  and  cheerfulness ;  their 
movements  are  elastic  and  sylph-like ;  even  the  Virginian  Pocahontas, 
on  the  score  of  personal  attractions  and  tenderness  of  disposition,  would 
be  thrown  in  the  shade  by  a  comparison  Avith  the  fascinating  females 
of  Bergh's  Group. 

Chastity  and  fidelity  in  the  marriage  state  are  innate  prmciples  with 
these  people  ;  and  the  possibility  of  their  violation  is  hardly  conceived 
of.  Consequently,  their  conjugal  connexions  are  almost  uniformly 
happy.  A  wife  never  speaks  to  her  husband  without  a  smile  of  affec- 
tion on  her  countenance  ;  and  in  all  my  intercourse  with  them,  I  never 
heard  a  man  speak  harshly  or  unkindly  to  a  female.  Their  social 
attachments  are  also  very  strong,  and  even  the  most  distant  relation- 
ships appear  to  be  held  more  sacred  than  the  nearest  and  closest  are 


Aug.]  THE  NATIVES.  427 

sometimes  held  among  civilized  Americans.  They  are  faithful  friends, 
good  neighbours,  and  pay  implicit  obedience  to  the  laws  and  customs 
by  which  they  are  governed.  Acts  of  injustice  and  oppression  are 
scarcely  known  among  them ;  but  charity,  kindness,  and  benevolence 
prevail  to  the  greatest  extent.  They  will  fight  bravely  in  the  cause  of 
a  friend ;  but  are  never  quarrelsome  or  revengeful  on  account  of  any 
private  injury  they  may  have  received  themselves.  Their  personal 
contests  are  very  rare,  however ;  but  when  they  do  occur,  they  are 
conducted  with  the  strictest  regard  to  honour  and  fair  play.  A  man 
will  not  attack  his  neighbour,  whatever  be  his  provocation,  until  he  has 
first  ascertained  that  the  physical  prowess  of  liis  antagonist  is  not 
much  inferior  to  his  own ;  as  they  hold  it  in  abhorrence  to  take  advan- 
tage of  the  weak. 

For  active  industry,  cheerful  diligence,  and  patient  perseverance  no 
parallel  can  be  found  for  them  among  the  natives  of  any  island  in  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  that  I  have  ever  visited.  The  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren are  all  in  active  motion  from  sunrise  to  sunset ;  ehher  in  catching 
fish,  or  at  work  on  their  canoes,  war  implements,  fishing  apparatus, 
wearing  apparel,  or  habitations.  Every  thing  they  do  is  executed  with 
the  greatest  neatness  and  ingenuity,  notwithstanding  they  have  no  better 
tools  than  such  as  they  themselves  manufacture  from  shells,  stones, 
and  the  teeth  of  fish.  It  is  expressly  forbidden  by  their  laws  to 
remain  in  bed  after  the  sun  has  risen,  cases  of  sickness  and  bodily 
infirmity  excepted  ;  dyspepsia  and  liver  complaints,  therefore,  with  the 
thousand  and  one  ills  that  civihzed  flesh  is  heir  to,  are  imknown  to  the 
natives  of  these  happy  islands. 

•  In  describing  the  virtues  and  amiable  qualities  of  these  natives,  I 
would  not  be  understood  to  say  that  there  were  no  exceptions,  nor  any 
solitary  instances  of  violating  the  laws.  A  perfect  state  of  society 
does  not,  and  perhaps  never  can,  exist  on  this  diversified  globe.  The 
very  necessity  of  a  law  implies  the  contrary.  To  strike  a  woman  is 
justly  considered  by  the  natives  of  Bergh's  Group  as  an  unnatural  and 
unmanly  act,  whatever  may  be  the  provocation.  But  if  a  woman  prove 
refractory,  disobedient,  or  abusive  to  her  husband,  and  gentle  means 
will  not  reclaim  her,  she  is  transported  to  a  small  island  of  the  group, 
where  none  but  women  reside,  and  the  man  who  is  known  to  take  one 
of  them  ofi*,  without  permission  of  the  government,  must  sufler  death. 
Punishments  still  more  severe  are  inflicted  on  the  man  who  iJl-treats 
his  wife. 

•  For  feats  of  strength,  agility,  and  address  some  of  these  natives 
would  put  our  best  circus  performers  to  the  blush.  They  will  throw 
a  rapid  succession  of  somersets,  back  and  forward,  without  any  thing 
elastic  beneath  their  feet ;  and  diey  are  equally  expert  in  running, 
jumping,  climbing,  pitching  heavy  substances,  &c.  They  will  ascend 
a  cocoanut-tree,  which  is  tall,  straight,  and  smooth  as  the  mast  of  a 
ship,  with  as  much  apparent  ease  and  agility  as  a  sailor  will  ascend 
the  ratlines  of  shrouds  that  have  just  been,  well  set  up.  They  excel  also 
in  swimming,  and  appear  to  be  as  much  at  home  in  the  water  as  the 
seal  or  the  tortoise.  They  will  dive  to  the  bottom  in  fifteen  fathoms 
of  water,  and  bring  up  jialf  a  dozen  pearl   oysters,   with  as  much 


0 


428  BERGH'S  GROUP.  [1830. 

ease  as  some  of  our  best  swimmers  M'ill  go  down  in  three  fathoms, 
and  bring  any  tiling  from  the  bottom. 

With  respect  to  tlie  rehgious  ideas  of  these  islanders,  the  little  infor- 
mation I  obtained  may  be  communicated  in  a  few  words.  They 
believe  that  all  things  are  created  by  some  wise  and  powerful  Being, 
who  rules  over  and  governs  the  whole,  and  whose  residence  is  above 
the  stars  ;  that  he  watches  over  all  his  children,  and  all  animated 
things,  with  paternal  care  and  aifection  ;  that  he  provides  food  for  man, 
for  the  birds,  fish,  and  insects  ;  the  most  minute  being  intended  to  feed 
the  larger,  and  the  whole  to  sustain  the  human  race ;  that  the  Creator 
waters  these  islands  with  his  own  hand,  by  pouring  down  seasonable 
rains  from  above ;  that  he  planted  the  cocoanut-tree,  the  bread-fruit, 
and  all  the  other  trees,  together  with  every  shrub,  plant,  and  spire  of 
grass  ;  that  good  actions  are  pleasing  to  him,  but  that  bad  actions  make 
him  angry  ;  that  they  shall  be  happy  or  miserable  hereafter,  according 
to  their  conduct  in  this  life  ;  that  the  good  will  then  live  on  a  group  of 
lovely  islands,  still  more  pleasant  and  beautiful  than  their  own,  while 
the  bad  shall  be  separated  from  them,  and  transported  to  some  rocky 
desolate  island  where  there  are  no  cocoanuts,  nor  bread-fruit,  nor  fresh 
water,  nor  fish,  nor  a  single  vestige  of  vegetation.  They  have  no 
temples,  churches,  or  forms  of  worship ;  but  say  they  love  the  Supreme 
Being  for  his  goodness  to  them. 

They  hold  the  marriage  contract  to  be  a  sacred  and  binding  obliga- 
tion ;  and  that  it  must  be  solemnized  either  in  presence  of  the  king,  or 
one  of  his  majesty's  principal  chiefs  duly  authorized  and  delegated  for 
that  purpose.  Previous  to  this  contract  being  made,  no  restraint  is 
imposed  upon  either  party,  and  the  unmarried  woman  may  bestow 
her  favours  on  whom  she  pleases,  M'ithout  incurring  censure,  or 
feeling  conscious  of  doing  wrong.  But  once  married,  and  a  false 
step  is  infamy.  A  pregnant  female,  married  or  unmarried,  is  looked 
upon  with  respect  and  honour  ;  M'hile  she  herself,  with  conscious  pride 
of  her  own  friiitfulness,  is  very  far  from  taking  any  pains  to  conceal 
her  situation.  A  young  native  in  search  of  a  wife  generally  gives 
the  preference  to  one  who  has  already  given  such  incontrovertible 
evidence  of  her  ability  to  build  him  up  a  family. 

Their  funeral  rites  are  also  somewhat  singular  and  peculiar.  On 
the  decease  of  a  near  relative,  they  abstain  from  all  kinds  of  food  for 
forty-eight  hours  ;  and  for  one  month  afterward,  they  take  nothing  but 
fruit,  depriving  themselves  entirely  of  fish,  which  is  their  greatest 
luxury.  For  the  loss  of  a  parent,  or  a  conjugal  partner,  they  also 
retire  in  solitude  to  the  mountains,  for  three  months.  But  duty  now 
compels  me  to  add  another  circumstance,  which  for  the  honour  of 
human  nature,  I  wish  could  be  omitted  consistently  with  truth. — 
The  death  of  the  king,  or  a  principal  chief,  is  always  celebrated  by 
human  sacrifices  !  Several  men,  women,  and  children  are  selected  as 
his  honorary  attendants  to  the  world  of  spirits  ;  and  they  are  proud  of 
the  distinction,  for  they  are  buried  in  the  same  grave  with  him  !  On 
these  occasions,  and  for  two  months  after  the  funeral  obsequies  of  a 
chief,  not  a  canoe  is  allowed  to  float  upon  the  water.  A  few  humane 
missionaries  would  soon  dispel  this  dark  cloud  of  superstition. 


Aug.]  MODE  OF  WARFARE.  429 

I  have  already  said  that  the  Indian  race,  who  inhabit  the  two  western 
islands,  and  the  negro  race,  who  inhabit  the  two  eastern  islands,  are 
often  at  war  with  each  other  ;  but  I  have  not  yet  mentioned  their  pecu- 
liar mode  of  commencing  and  carrying  on  hostilities.  From  all  I  can 
learn,  the  following  is  their  general  plan  of  operations. 

If  the  western  islanders  have  received,  or  think  they  have  received, 
an  injury  from  their  eastern  neighbours,  they  send  the  aggressors  notice, 
by  an  agent  duly  authorized  for  the  mission,  that  in  five  days  from  that 
date  (for  they  always  give  five  days'  notice),  at  such  an  hour,  and  in 
such  a  place,  a  certain  number  of  warriors  will  land  on  their  territory 
from  a  specified  number  of  canoes,  armed  and  equipped  in  such  and 
such  a  manner  ;  at  which  time  and  place  negotiations  may  be  opened, 
for  explanations  and  the  redress  of  grievances. 

The  landing,  the  meeting,  and  the  negotiation,  all  take  place  accord- 
ingly ;  and  if  the  subject  of  dispute  be  amicably  adjusted,  the  affair 
terminates  with  a  banquet,  and  both  parties  are  satisfied.  But  if,  on 
the  other  hand,  they  fail  to  agree,  "  then  comes  the  tug  of  war."  An 
equal  number  of  warriors  meet  the  complainants,  face  to  face,  and 
"  let  the  hardest  fend  off."  For  half  an  hour  they  fight  like  ferocious 
tigers,  dealing  out  wounds  and  death  without  pity  or  compunction. 
They  then  separate,  as  if  by  mutual  consent,  and  rest  for  the  remainder 
of  the  day ;  both  parties  remainmg  near  the  field  of  battle,  burying 
their  dead,  and  attending  to  the  wants  of  the  wounded. 

On  the  following  day,  when  both  parties  have  declared  themselves 
in  readiness,  the  contest  is  renewed,  with  twofold  earnestness,  and 
continues  twice  the  time  of  the  yesterday's  battle,  unless  one  of  the 
contending  parties  should  give  in,  and  yield  the  victory  to  the  other. 
On  the  contrary,  at  the  termination  of  an  hour's  hard  fighting,  they 
again  separate,  lay  aside  their  weapons,  and  assist  each  other  in  bury- 
ing the  dead,  and  giving  relief  to  the  wounded,  in  the  most  amicable 
manner.  On  the  third  day  the  fate  of  the  campaign  is  decided.  They 
commence  the  battle  in  the  morning,  and  continue  it  until  one  of  the 
parties  is  beaten.  If  it  be  the  invaders,  they  forfeit  their  canoes  and 
weapons  to  the  conquerors,  who  are  bound  to  give  the  vanquished  a 
feast,  and  convey  them  to  their  own  islands  in  safety,  where  a  treaty 
of  peace  is  ratified  by  another  feast,  which  lasts  two  days.  The  two 
islands  will  then  be  in  mourning  for  fifteen  days,  in  honour  of  their 
friends  who  have  fallen  in  battle.  After  this  a  friendly  intercourse  is 
renewed,  and  both  parties  pass  and  repass  from  their  respective  islands 
as  usual. 

On  the  other  hand,  should  the  invading  party  prove  victorious,  the 
others  will  accede  to  their  demands,  and  make  the  best  treaty  that  cir- 
cumstances will  allow,  always  ratified  by  a  feast  of  two  days'  duration. 
The  prisoners  taken  during  the  action  belong  to  the  individuals  who 
take  them,  if  their  party  be  victorious  ;  otherwise  they  are  given  up  to 
the  conquerors  ;  but  the  yielding  party  are  never  considered  or  treated 
as  prisoners,  but  are  honourably  used,  and  sent  to  their  respective 
homes,  as  before  stated. 

The  weapons  with  which  these  battles  are  decided  consist  of  spears 
made  of  very  light  wood,  and  pointed  with  flint-stone  or  fish-bones ; 


430  BERGH'S  GROUP.  [1830. 

and  another  kind  made  of  very  lieavj-  wood,  about  sixteen  feet  in  length, 
sharply  pointed,  and  hardened  in  the  fire.  These  they  will  throw  to 
the  distance  of  thirty  or  forty  yards,  at  a  mark  the  size  of  a  man,  and 
never  miss  it,  generally  hitting  it  near  the  centre.  The  points  of  their 
weapons  are  never  poisoned ;  but  whether  from  a  principle  of  honour, 
or  the  want  of  means,  I  was  not  informed.  Their  war  clubs  are  made 
of  a  species  of  wood  which  much  resembles  our  fustic  ;  being  from  six 
to  eight  feet  in  length,  and  about  the  size  of  a  man's  wrist  at  each  end, 
but  smaller  in  the  middle  ;  very  smoothly  wrought,  handsomely  pro- 
portioned ;  and,  in  some  parts,  elegantly  carved.  They  grasp  them 
by  the  centre,  and  exercise  with  them  much  in  the  same  manner  as  an 
Irishman  plays  with  his  "  sprig  of  shilaleh."  With  this  weapon  I  have 
seen  one  man  keep  half  a  dozen  at  bay  at  the  same  time.  Their  slings, 
with  which  they  generally  commence  the  battle,  are  made  of  the  fibres 
of  the  bark  of  a  tree  ;  and  are  about  three  feet  in  length  when  doubled: 
In  the  centre]  is  formed  a  very  neat  saddle  for  the  stone,  which  is 
generally  the  size  of  a  goose-egg;  this  they  will  throw  from  one  hun- 
dred to  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  with  tolerable  precision. 

The  habitations  of  these  islanders  are  happily  contrived  and  inge- 
niously constructed.  In  size  they  vary  from  twenty  to  sixty  feet  in 
length,  and  from  ten  to  thirty  feet  in  breadth ;  being  only  one  story 
high,  with  angular  roofs,  neatly  thatched  with  cocoanut  and  palm  leaves, 
which  render  them  completely  water-tight.  The  sides  of  the  house 
are  covered,  during  the  rainy  season,  with  large  mats,  made  of  the 
same  materials,  which  are  put  up  about  the  last  of  November,  and 
removed  again  about  the  first  of  February,  and  stowed  away  under 
the  pitch  of  the  roof,  in  a  place  constructed  for  that  purpose.  Thus, 
for  nearly  ten  mpnths  of  the  year,  the  air  has  a  free  circulation  through 
all  parts  of  the  house,  both  night  and  day.  When  the  tight  water- 
proof mats  are  removed  in  February,  their  place  is  supplied  for  the 
pleasant  season  by  a  set  of  open-work  mats,  resembling,  in  appearance, 
the  top  or  staysail  netting  of  a  ship,  and  forming  a  beautiful  substitute 
for  lattice-work.  The  floors  are  carpeted  with  coarse  mats,  which 
are  regularly  washed  once  a  week,  at  the  sea-shore. 

Their  beds  are  soft  mats,  very  finely  wrought,  of  which  the  more 
delicate  and  luxurious  have  several  thicknesses  or  layers,  piled  on  each 
other.  Some  of  the  females  who  are  mothers  have  baskets,  or 
cradles  of  wickerwork,  suspended  to  the  roof  of  the  house,  for  the 
young  children  to  sleep  in.  They  liave  also  a  kind  of  bed  or  crib  very 
ingeniously  contrived  for  the  sick,  consisting  of  a  large  strong  mat, 
stretched  on  a  frame  of  bamboo,  elevated  about  eighteen  inches  from 
the  floor,  and  furnished  with  sides  of  network.  These  are  so  con- 
trived, with  a  hole  or  opening  in  the  centre,  that  the  patient  who  is 
very  low  need  not  be  disturbed  by  the  necessary  calls  of  nature. 
Over  these  cribs,  or  sick-beds,  are  suspended  large  fans,  made  of  palm 
leaves,  which  the  patient  can  easily  put  in  motion  by  a  small  cord. 
They  also  have  finely-wrought  mats,  made  expressly  to  eat  from, 
which  after  every  meal  are  immediately  taken  to  the  water  and  washed. 
In  short,  on  the  score  of  personal  and  domestic  cleanliness,  these 
islanders  of  Bergh's  Group  excel  every  race  of  people  I  ever  saw  or 


aug.]  SOIL  AND  CLIMATE.  431 

heard  of;  and  my  wife  frequently  tells  me,  in  her  playful  manner, 
that  for  her  improvement  in  the  science  of  housekeeping  she  is 
indebted  to  the  lessons  she  received  from  the  ladies  of  Bergh's  Group. 

Their  houses  are  arranged  in  clusters,  or  small  villages  ;  standing 
in  regular  rows,  with  streets  between  them,  about  fifty  fathoms  wide. 
Each  liause  has  a  spacious  yard  attached  to  it,  surrounded  by  a  bam- 
boo fence,  so  constructed  as  to  admit  a  free  circulation  of  the  air.  In 
the  centre  of  each  village  is  the  residence  of  a  chief,  who  directs  all 
its  affairs  in  the  capacity  of  magistrate,  and  to  whose  judgment  all 
local  disputes  are  submitted ;  with  the  right  of  appealing  from  his  de- 
cision to  that  of  the  king,  or  head  chief  of  the  tribe. 

These  islands  are  moderately  elevated,  each  of  them  being  high  in 
the  centre,  and  gradually  descending  into  beautiful  valleys  and  fertile 
plains  towards  the  shores,  at  all  points  of  the  compass,  with  crystal 
streams  running  into  the  sea  in  every  direction.  It  will  easily  be 
conceived  that  a  group  of  islands  thus  situated,  near  the  equator, 
covered  M'hh  a  deep  mellow  soil,  and  presenting  such  features  to  a 
tropical  sun,  must  teem  with  vegetable  life  in  rapid  and  perpetual  suc- 
cession. Indeed,  I  doubt  if  the  last  word  be  appropriate  where  blos- 
soms and  ripe  fruit  adorn  the  same  trees,  and  even  the  same  branches, 
interspersed  with  the  same  kind  of  fruit  in  all  its  different  stages  and 
gradations  of  existence.  Every  faUing  leaf  is  merely  pushed  from 
its  stem  by  a  newly  formed  successor,  while  the  full-seeded  plants, 
grass,  and  vegetables  are  compelled  to  give  place  to  a  premature  off- 
spring. Spring,  summer,  and  autumn  are  here  in  perpetual  conten- 
tion for  the  supremacy.  Winter  merely  takes  a  hasty  peep  at  the 
contest,  and  retires  with  an  animating  smile  even  SM'eeter  than  their 
own. 

Were  the  inhabitants  of  these  islands  only  possessed  of  a  little 
aoricultural  knowledge,  and  would  exercise  it  with  a  tithe  of  the  skill 
and  ingenuity  which  they  display  on  self-taught  arts  of  less  import- 
ance, these  islands  might  soon  become  the  richest  gardens  of  the 
world.  I  hope  and  trust  that  I  have  been  instrumental  in  laying  the 
foundation  of  such  a  desirable  revolution.  I  communicated  all  the 
information  on  the  subject  M'hich  our  brief  intercourse  would  permit, 
through  interpreters  whose  native  dialect  was  so  similar  to  their  own 
that  they  could  converse  together  without  the  least  difficulty.  I  also 
furnished  them  with  a  variety  of  seeds,  M'hich  they  promised  to  plant 
and  cultivate  according  to  my  directions.  Among  these  were,  apples, 
pears,  peaches,  plums,  melons,  pumpkins,  yams,  potatoes,  onions, 
cabbages,  beets,  carrots,  parsnips,  beans,  pease,  Sic.  I  have  no  doubt 
but  coffee,  pepper,  sugar-cane,  and  spices  of  various  kinds  woidd 
thrive  on  these  islands  with  little  or  no  trouble. 

The  thick  and  heavy  growth  of  the  forests  is  evidence  of  sufficient 
weight  to  prove  the  richness  of  the  soil  which  clothes  the  surface  of 
these  beautiful  islands.  I  know  that  the  uplands  produce  sandal-wood, 
but  in  what  quantities  I  was  not  able  to  ascertain.  A  great  number 
and  variety  of  beautiful  plants  are  found  in  every  direction ;  not  only 
in  the  valleys  and  plains,  but  also  on  the  hills,  to  their  very  summits. 
Many  of  these  were  strangers  to  me,  and  such,  I  presume,  as  are  not 


432  BERGH'S  GROUP.  '         [1830 

generally  known  in  this  country.  Some  of  them,  I  am  sure,  would 
he  highly  esteemed  by  scientific  collectors.  The  cocoanut  and  bread- 
fruit-trees, here  grow  to  an  enormous  size,  and  their  fruits  are  much 
larger  and  of  more  delicious  flavour  than  those  I  have  been  accus- 
tonied  to  see  in  other  islands  of  these  seas. 

The  natives  of  Bergh's  Group  are  blessed  with  the  purest  of  water, 
descending  in  limpid  streams  from  their  mountain  sources.  But  they 
seldom  drink  it  until  it  has  ascended  through  the  invisible  veins  of  the 
lofty  cocoanut-tree,  and  concealed  itself  in  the  centre  of  its  delectable 
fruit.  Thus  puritied  in  one  of  nature's  sweetest  alembics,  they  con- 
sider it  the  purest  and  most  Avholesome  beverage  in  the  world. 

The  climate  here  is  also  delightful,  never  too  hot,  nor  too  cold. 
Lying  in  the  strength  of  that  aerial  current  called  the  north-east 
trade-winds,  these  islands  are  always  refreshed  with  a  fine  cool  sea- 
breeze,  which  keeps  the  atmosphere  in  a  pure  state,  imparting  health, 
activity,  and  vigour  to  every  department  of  animated  nature. 

Of  the  animals  found  in  these  islands  my  information  is  very  lim- 
ited, as  I  had  no  opportunity  of  inspecting  the  interior.  I  know  that 
the  groves  abound  with  a  great  variety  of  birds,  all  of  them  beautiful 
to  the  eye,  and  most  of  them  charmingly  musical.  I  saw  several 
reptiles  of  the  lizard  family,  but  none  of  the  serpent  tribe.  Insects 
are  numerous,  gaudy  and  sparkling,  but  none  of  them  troublesome. 
Of  minerals  we  saw  none  worthy  of  notice.  The  waters  within  the 
outer  reef  that  surrounds  the  whole  group  are  swarming  with  a  great 
variety  of  excellent  fish,  which  may  be  taken  in  great  abundance, 
either  with  a  seine  or  by  hook  and  line.  Shellfish  of  various  kinds, 
abound  among  the  reefs  and  shoals,  and  along  the  shores,  some  of 
which  afibrd  rare  specimens,  surpassing  any  thing  I  have  ever  met 
with  in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  I  know  of  no  place  where  the 
naturalist  and  virtuoso  could  procure  a  richer  collection  of  rare,  cu- 
rious, and  valuable  shells  than  at  these  islands.  Pearl  oysters  are 
plenty,  and  those  which  we  obtained  of  the  natives  were  of  the  same 
kind  as  the  Sooloo  sea-shell.  The  green  turtle  is  abundant,  but  I 
think  that  the  hawk's-bill  tortoise  is  very  scarce,  as  we  saw  few  in  the 
water,  and  not  much  of  the  shell  among  the  natives. 

Bidie-de-mer  may  be  obtained  here  in  great  abundance,  and  of  a 
very  superior  quality,  provided  the  amicable  professions  of  the  natives 
can  be  depended  on,  without  v/hich  it  would  be  impossible  to  cure 
tliem,  in  which  case  the  time  and  labour  of  taking  them  would  be 
entirely  lost.  Under  favourable  circumstances,  several  cargoes  might 
be  taken  here,  a  great  part  of  which  would  command  the  highest 
price,  if  the  specimens  we  saw  are  a  criterion  for  judging  of  its  gen- 
eral quality.  Some  that  we  found  were  two  feet  in  length,  and  eigh- 
teen inches  in  circumference  ;  the  meat  of  which,  when  the  entrails 
were  taken  out,  would  weigh  from  seven  to  nine  pounds  !  This  is  a 
larger  size  than  any  that  I  have  ever  seen  at  the  Feejee  Islands,  the 
New-Hebrides,  Bougainville's,  New-Ireland,  New-Britain,  New-Guinea, 
New-Hanover,  or  even  at  the  Massacre  Islands. 

I  have  not  the  least  doubt,  that  a  ship  built  and  equipped  expressly 
for  a  voyage  to  these  islands,  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  pearls. 


-   11 


Aug.]  NECESSARY  EQUIPxMENTS.  *      433 

pearl  and  tortoise-shell,  sandal-wood,  biche-dc-mcr,  and  other  valuables, 
under  the  conduct  of  a  careful  and  able  commander,  would  obtam 
two  or  three  cargoes  for  the  Canton  market  without  having  any  trouble 
with  the  natives,  provided  they  are  treated  with  kindness,  and  dealt 
with  honourably.  For  such  an  enterprise,  tlie  necessary  articles  of 
traffic  are,  beads,  looking-glasses,  tinder-works,  axes,  hatchets,  adzes, 
saws,  planes,  chisels,  gouges,  gimlets,  files,  rasps,  spoke-shaves, 
hammers,  knives,  scissors,  razors,  needles,  thread,  difterent  kinds  of 
crockery-ware,  cheap  chintz,  and  calicoes  of  bright  gaudy  colours, 
and  all  sorts  of  trinkets.  These  articles  should  all  be  selected  by  a 
man  who  has  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  trade. 

A  ship  intended  for  tliis  trade  should  be  from  three  hundred  to 
three  hundred  and  fifty  tons  burthen ;  built  of  good  materials,  of  a 
light  draught  of  water,  and  a  fast  sailer.  She  should  also  be  built  on 
a  different  construction  from  any  other  vessel,  and  rigged  into  a  barque. 
She  should  be  well  armed,  with  at  least  ten  double  fortified  twelve- 
pound  carronades  ;  and  two  long  twelves,  and  manned  with  an  effect- 
ive crew  of  forty  or  fifty  able-bodied  men,  with  a  select  first-rate  set 
of  officers,  besides  several  medical  and  scientific  men.  She  should 
also  be  provided  with  four  brass  blunderbusses  for  each  top,  with 
water-tiglit  arm-chests,  for  the  same  purpose.  Her  anchors  and  cables 
should  be  of  more  than  double  the  usual  weight  and  strength  of  those 
intended  for  any  other  trade.  She  should  be  amply  supplied  with  all 
kinds  of  nautical  instruments,  for  ascertaining  the  exact  situation  of 
all  the  islands  and  places  she  might  visit,  in  order  that  the  same  may 
be  accurately  laid  down,  for  the  benefit  of  others.  Above  all,  she 
should  be  placed  under  the  command  of  a  man  who  is  qualified  for  the 
husiness ;  one  who  is  familiarly  acquainted  with  the  peculiar  naviga- 
tions of  those  seas,  and  who  will  study  the  health  and  comfort  of  his 
men,  and  the  permanent  welfare  of  the  natives.  » 

Such  a  ship,  thus  prepared  for  a  two  years'  voyage,  and  navigated 
by  such  a  commander,  would  return  an  immense  profit  to  the  owners. 
I  do  not  entertain  the  shadow  of  a  doubt,  that  an  investment  of  thirty- 
five  or  forty  thousand  dollars,  thus  employed,  would  yield  a  return  of 
at  least  two  hundred  thousand  dollars.  The  discovery  of  these  islands 
has  laid  open  a  field  for  the  exercise  of  commercial  enterprise  of  vast 
importance,  not  only  to  individuals,  but  to  our  country  at  large.  The 
soil  is  rich,  and  capable  of  producing,  under  proper  cultivation,  all 
the  vegetable  wealth  of  a  tropical  climate. 

In  giving  these  islands  the  name  of  Bergh's  Group,  I  was  actuated 
solely  by  the  desire  of  adding  to  the  well-earned  celebrity  of  a  name 
v.hieh  is  universally  respected  by  ail  who  have  the  happiness  of 
knowing  the  family  which  it  designates.  J\Iy  friend  Edwin  Bergh  is 
ihe  son  of  Christian  Bergh,  Esq.,  a  ship-builder  of  no  inconsiderable 
eminence,  in  the  city  of  New- York ;  and  is  justly  entitled  to 
the  honour  of  having  his  name  engraved  in  characters  that  time  can 
never  obliterate,  on  the  coral  parapet  that  surrounds  the  loveliest  group 
of  islands  in  the  Pacific  Ocean.  I  claim  to  be  the  first  discoverer  of 
these  islands,  and  I  know  then-  worth.  Independent  of  my  own  ob- 
sen'ations,  the  natives  were  ver)^  communicative  to  me  on  the  subject 

E  e 


434  SAIL  FROM  BERGH'S  GROUP.  [1830. 

of  their  natural  productions  and  capabilities,  through  the  interpreters 
before  alluded  to,  wlio  were  natives  of  Yap,  an  island  which  is  situated 
about  sixty  leagues  north-east  of  the  Pelew  Islands,  the  natives  of 
which  speak  a  language  almost  exactly  like  that  spoken  by  the  inhab- 
itants of  Bergh's  Group.  These  men  had  acquired  the  Spanish  lan- 
guage at  Manilla,  through  which  medium  my  information  was  ob- 
tained. 

August  2\st. — I  am  fully  convinced  tliat  the  natives  of  these  islands 
are  more  mild,  gentle,  peaceable,  and  honourably  disposed,  than  any 
other  savage  tribes  I  have  ever  met  with  ;  but  they  are  still  savages, 
and  from  some  suspicious  circumstances  which  occurred  on  Tuesday 
^le  3 1st  of  August,  I  adopted  the  conclusion  that  it  would  not  be  pru- 
dent to  trust  them  too  far,  well  knowing,  from  long  experience,  that 
caution  is  the  parent  of  security.  On  the  day  just  mentioned,  the 
Antarctic  was  surrounded  by  more  than  four  hundred  canoes,  in  many 
of  which  we  saw,  for  the  first  time,  a  large  supply  of  war  implements. 
As  we  had  never  taken  notice  of  any  thing  of  this  kind  before,  we  began 
to  entertaui  some  unpleasant  suspicions  of  intended  treachery  and  im- 
pending hostilities ;  although,  when  questioned  on  the  subject,  by  our 
natives  of  Yap,  they  solemnly  denied  having  any  inimical  intentions, 
alleging  that  they  had  merely  armed  in  consequence  of  some  appre- 
hended dispute  with  the  negroes. 

•  This  explanation  was  not  satisfactory,  and  as  I  felt  a  great  reluctance 
to  come  to  an  open  rupture  with  a  people  to  whom  I  had  become  so 
strongly  attached,  I  determined  to  shorten  my  visit,  and  leave  them 
in  the  course  of  tlie  day.  In  the  mean  time  I  adopted  every  necessary 
precaution  for  the  defence  of  the  vessel.  A  double  sentry  was  placed 
in  the  gangways,  on  both  quarters,  and  on  both  bows,  with  four  loaded 
muskets  by  each  man.  Men  with  lighted  matches  in  their  hands  were 
stationed  by  the  brass  swivels  which  wore  mounted  on  the  rail,  and 
loaded  with  canisters  of  muskct-balls.  They  stood  with  the  monkey- 
tails  in  their  hands,  the  aprons  ofl',  with  instructions  not  to  touch  a 
single  match  to  the  priming  without  distinct  orders  from  me,  which 
would  not  be  given  unless  the  natives  commenced  an  attack.  What- 
ever might  have  been  their  original  secret  intentions,  they  were  evi- 
dently forcibly  struck  with  the  imusual  stir  and  bustle  on  board  the 
Antarctic  ;  wliere  llic  drums  were  beating,  the  colours  flying,  the  fifes 
playing,  and  the  bugles  sounding,  "  with  fearful  note  of  dreadful  prepa- 
ration."' While  our  deck  was  thus  enlivened,  our  gallant  tars  were 
all  life  and  activity,  paying  the  most  prompt  attention  to  the  various 
duties  assigned  them.  In  a  few  minutes  the  anchor  was  at  the  bow  ; 
and  in  the  next  moment,  to  the  astonishment  of  the  gazing  natives,  the 
Antarctic's  white  wings  were  all  expanded  at  once,  even  to  steering- 
sails  and  stay-sails,  courteously  wooing  the  breeze,  which  was  wafting 
her  along  at  the  rate  of  eight  miles  an  hour. 

At  the  moment  that  orders  were  given  to  let  fall  the  sails  (the  yards 
and  gafls  being  at  the  mast-heads),  to  sheet  home  the  topsails,  and 
gather  aft  the  sheets  of  the  fore-and-aft  sails,  the  music  struck  up 
Yankee  Doodle  ;  and  in  less  than  two  minutes  from  the  time  the  anchor 
came  to  the  bows  (all  the  canvass  being  still  furled),  all  sail  was  sely 


Sept.]  MONTEVERDESOX'S  GROUP.  435 

< 

trimmed  to  the  wind,  and  the  Antarctic  was  once  more  gliding  over  the 
bosom  of  the  placid  lagoon,  with  all  her  native  grace  and  beauty. 

September  3d. — On  Friday,  the  3d  of  September,  we  passed  within 
about  ten  miles  of  the  east  end  of  Young  William's  Group,  on  our  way 
to  Monieverdeson's  Islands,  at  which  it  was  our  intention  to  touch. 


CHAPTER  MIL 


Monteverdeson's  Group — Treachery  of  the  Natives — Attack  on  the  Antarctic  re- 
pulsed— Wholesome  Chastisement — Arrive  at  the  Massacre  Islands — Assailed 
by  the  Cannibals,  who  are  repulsed  with  Loss — Fire  upon  the  Town — Beneficial 
Result — Leonard  Shaw,  supposed  to  have  fallen  in  the  general  Massacre, 
alive,  and  liberated  from  a  horrid  Slavery — Excitement  of  the  Crew — Purchase 
of  an  Island — A  Castle  in  the  Air — Suspicious  Movements — A  brief  Sketch  of 
the  Sufferings  of  Leonard  Shaw,  during  a  Captivity  of  more  than  Fifteen  Weeka 
among  the  Cannibals. 

The  reader  will  perhaps  recollect,  that  when  we  left  Monteverdeson's 
Islands,  on  the  18th  of  May,  as  recorded  in  Chapter  VI.,  the  Antarctic 
was  chased  several  miles  by  an  armed  flotilla  of  canoes,  manned  by 
more  than  five  hundred  hostile  savages.  Unwilling  to  shed  the  blood 
of  this  treacherous  misguided  people,  we  left  them  to  their  own  reflec- 
tions ;  hoping  that  our  forbearance  on  that  occasion  would  teach  them 
a  more  salutary  lesson  than  a  demonstration  of  our  power  could  have 
done.  In  coming  to  this  conclusion,  however,  we  judged  them  more 
favourably  than  they  deserved  ;  as  they  attributed  our  lenity  to  imbe- 
cility, and  our  retreat  to  cowardice  ;  an  opinion  which  only  tended  to 
encourage  their  treachery  and  increase  their  audacity  and  presump- 
tion. 

September  5th. — In  our  passage  from  Bergh's  Group  to  the  Massacre 
Islands,  we  found  it  expedient  to  touch  once  more  at  Monteverdeson's 
Group ;  and  accordingly,  on  Sunday,  the  5th  of  September,  at  five, 
A.  M.,  we  were  close  in  with  its  western  end  ;  and  at  six,  A.  M.,  were 
visited  by  about  two  hundred  of  the  natives,  in  their  canoes,  without 
arms.  Nothing  was  said  on  either  side  about  their  unwarranted  and' 
unprovoked  designs  against  us,  three  months  before ;  they  pretended 
to  be  very  sincere  in  their  amicable  professions,  and  we  pretended  t« 
believe  them.  They  also  appeared  to  be  very  eager  and  anxious  to 
trade  with  us,  in  which  we  indulged  them,  as  far  as  their  little  stock 
of  trifling  curiosities  extended.  The  breeze  having  now  died  away  to 
B  perfect  calm,  the  vessel  was  drifted  about  by  a  gentle  current,  which 
set  to  the  south-west. 

The  natives  remained  alongside  until  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
when  they  all  took  leave  of  us  in  a  very  friendly  manner,  and  paddled 
towards  the  nearest  island,  which  was  then  about  three  miles  to  the 
north-east.  AVhen  they  had  proceeded  about  half-way  to  the  shore, 
ihey  all  suddenly  came  to  a  fuJl  stop ;  but  for  what  purpose  we  could 

E  e  2 


436  ATTACK  UPON  THE  ANTARCTIC.  [1830. 

not  imagine.  As  the  sun  was  about  setting,  we  at  first  conjectured  that 
it  niitrht  be  some  religious  ceremony  that  detained  them,  such  as  paying 
their  evening  adoration  to  the  departing  luminary.  Our  conjectures 
and  doubts,  however,  were  not  of  long  duration.  A  party  of  about 
three  hundred  warriors  was  soon  observed  to  put  off  from  the  shore, 
and  join  those  who  were  lying  on  their  oars. 

In  the  next  moment  wo  could  see  the  new  comers  hastily  distributing 
%var-clubs,  spears,  bowa*  and  an-rows,  and  other  offensive  weapons, 
among  the  traders  who  had  so  recently  left  us  with  every  demonstration 
of  friendship.  By  tlie  aid  of  our  glasses,  we  watched  these  suspicious 
movements  with  painful  interest.  When  the  arms  were  distributed  to 
every  canoe,  we  could  see  them  paint  their  faces  red,  and  adorn  iheir 
heads  with  cocoanut  leaves- and  red  feathers.  They  then  appeared  to 
hold  a  short  council  of  war ;  and  in  a  few  minutes  after,  the  whole 
force  started  for  the  Antarctic,  with  great  speed,  and  in  two  divisions. 
As  they  drew  near,  we  could  perceive  that  their  ferocious  countenances 
exhibited  a  desperate  determination  to  succeed  in  carrying  the  Antarctic, 
or  perish  in  the  attempt. 

I  now'  repented  of  my  forbearance  on  a  former  occasion.  I  regretted 
that  I  did  not  then  lay-to,  for  a  few  minutes,  and  punish  their  treachery, 
.while  we  had  a  fme  breeze  and  daylight  in  our  favour.  I  regretted  it 
for  their  own  sake  ;  for  at  that  time  a  slight  chastisement  would  have 
been  sufficient  to  admonish  them  of  the  impropriety  of  their  conduct. 
But  they  were  now  imboldened  by  our  lenity,  and  the  mistaken  confi- 
dence that  they  had  to  deal  with  cowards.  We  could  not  leave  them 
to  the  enjoyment  of  their  error,  for  we  were  perfectly  becalmed ;  the 
sun  had  set,  and  the  alternative  was  life  or  death.  They  persisted  in 
their  fatal  folly,  and  the  result  was  inevitable. 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say  that  we  were  prepared  for  such  an 
emergency.  Every  man  was  at  his  quarters,  ready  to  receive  the 
impending  assault.  The  guns  were  double-shotted  with  grape  and 
canister ;  the  swivels  were  loaded  with  canisters  of  musket-balls ; 
one  hundred  loaded  muskets  were  on  deck,  all  in  excellent  order ; 
each  of  the  crew  was  armed  with  a  brace  of  pistols,  and  a  cut- 
lass by  his  side,  with  a  boarding-pike  within  his  reach.  Every  man 
was  ready  to  sacrifice  his  life  in  defence  of  the  Antarctic  ;  and  their 
enthusiasm  was  not  in  the  least  diminished  by  the  knowledge  that  the 
fate  of  a  lady  was  connected  with  the  result. 

The  savage  warriors  advanced  in  fine  order,  and  with  great  rapidity ; 
exhibiting  in  their  manceuvres  a  coolness,  tact,  skilfulness,  and  deliberate 
calculation  that  I  was  not  prepared  to  expect,  and  which  would  have 
•honoured  a  better  cause.  As  soon  as  they  approached  within  close 
pistol-shot,  and  by  the  time  that  their  first  volley  of  arrows  was 
fastened  in  the  empty  sails,  now  flapping  in  useless  drapery  against  the 
masts,  the  Antarctic  opened  a  brisk  and  well-directed  fire,  from  her  great 
guns,  swivels,  and  musketry ;  which  must  liave  appeared  to  the  assail- 
ants as  one  sheet  of  flame.  Agreeably  to  previous  orders,  the  pieces 
were  all  immediately  reloaded  as  before,  but  not  discharged. 

We  waited,  somewhat  anxiously,  for  the  smoke  to  clear  away,  in 
order  to  ascertain  the  situation  and  disposition  of  the  enemy ;  who,  to 


Sept.]  '  ARRIVE  AT  THE  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  437 

our  no  small  surprise,  were  all  in  the  water,  like  so  many  porpoises  ! 
Several  of  their  canoes  were  literally  cut  to  pieces  ;  and  their  imple- 
ments of  war  appeared  scattered  over  the  surface  of  the  sea,  in  every 
direction.  The  excited  crew  were  blowing  their  matches,  anxious  to 
give  them  another  volley  during  their  confusion.  But  this  I  positively 
forbade,  being  well  convinced  that  the  unexpected  cordiality  of  their 
reception  would  more  than  satisfy  the  ill-advised  assailants.  An  im- 
ploring look,  which  I  construed  into  a  petition  for  mercy,  was  cast 
towards  the  Antarctic  by  almost  every  one  of  the  terrified  swimmers  ; 
the  appeal  was  irresistible,  and  I  granted  them  a  respite  which  they 
would  never  have  given  us,  had  their  diabolical  designs  succeeded. 
They  hastily  got  into  such  of  their  canoes  as  were  yet  fit  for  service, 
picked  up  their  wounded,  collected  most  of  their  scattered  weapons, 
took  their  shattered  canoes  in  tow,  and  started  for  the  shore  with  as 
much  alacrity  of  exertion  as  ever  they  exercised  before. 

By  this  time  it  was  totally  dark ;  and  having  no  wind,  we  were 
obliged  to  keep  all  hands  at  quarters  during  the  night ;  lest  the  savages 
should  return  with  reinforcements,  under  the  expectation  of  taking  us 
by  surprise.  At  daylight,  however,  we  took  a  light  breeze  from  east- 
north-east,  and  continued  on  our  course  to  the  south  and  east. 

September  9th, — On  Wednesday,  the  9th,  we  took  the  south-east  ^ 
trade-wmds,  from  east-by-south  to  east- south-east,  and  fair  weather; 
being  in  latitude  3°  40'  north,  longitude  158°  41'  east.  On  the  Friday 
following  we  crossed  the  equator,  in  longitude  159°  4'  east.  We  found 
the  currents  the  same  as  on  our  former  passage  through  this  region ; 
and  on  the  third  day  after  entering  the  southern  hemisphere,  we  found 
ourselves  close  in  with  the  east  end  of  that  group  which  I  had  too  much 
reason  to  call  the  "  Massacre  Islands,'''' 

Septemher  I4tk, — On  Tuesday,  the  14th,  at  10  A.  M.,  we  came  to 
anchor  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  beach  of  that  island  which  had 
drunk  the  blood  of  fourteen  as  gallant  tars  as  ever  sailed  under  the 
star-spangled  banner  of  my  native  country.  Our  anchor  was  dropped 
in  ten  fathoms  of  water,  directly  in  front  of  the  village. 

The  Antarctic  had  been  seen  and  recognised  by  the  natives  on  the 
previous  evening ;  and  long  before  we  reached  our  anchorage,  canoes 
were  seen  starting  from  every  island  filled  with  warriors,  armed  with 
bows  and  arrows,  war-clubs,  &;c. ;  and  before  our  anchor  had  clung 
to  the  coral  bottom  for  half  an  hour,  the  cannibals  made  a  general 
attack  upon  the  Antarctic  in  their  canoes ;  while  many  of  them  waded 
ofi*  towards  the  vessel,  on  the  coral  reef,  within  arrow  distance. 

They  had  seen  us  depart  in  weakness,  on  the  29th  of  May,  well 
knowing  how  much  their  perfidious  treachery  had  thinned  our  crew, 
and  reduced  our  physical  prowess.  Ignorant  of  our  present  accession 
of  strength  and  numbers,  as  not  more  than  twenty  men  were  to  be  seen 
at  any  time  above  the  waist-cloths,  they  doubtless  counted  on  an  easy 
consummation  of  the  work  of  destruction  they  had  so  successfully 
commenced  at  our  former  visit.  Whatever  might  have  been  their  cal- 
culations, they  lost  no  time  in  making  the  desperate  experiment. 

They  advanced  against  us  with  as  formidable  a  flotilla  as  the  whole 
group  of  islands  could  furnish  ;  and  we  av»ailed  their  approach  with 


438  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  "  [1830. 

that  kind  of  ominous  stillneiss  which  precedes  an  earthquake,  or  the 
bursting  of  a  volcano.  They  advanced  in  good  order,  and  deliberately 
took  their  stations  in  different  positions  around  tlie  vessel,  choosing 
such  distance  as  best  comported  with  their  ideas  of  nautical  warfare. 
When  they  were  satisfied  in  this  respect,  tliey  saluted  us  with  a  shower 
of  arrows,  which  were  well  intended,  but  harmless  in  effect. 

I  now  gave  the  word  to  fire  ;  and  for  ten  minutes  nothing  more  was 
heard  but  one  continued  roar  of  cannons,  swivels,  and  musketry. 
The  astounded  assailants  retreated  with  the  utmost  precipitation,  trepi- 
dation, and  dismay.  They  were  scattered  like  chaff  before  the  hur- 
ricane. My  officers  and  men  were  eager  to  follow  them  in  our  boats  ; 
but  to  this  rash  measure  I  would  by  no  means  consent. 

It  now  occurred  to  me,  and  the  suggestion  met  the  approbation  of  my 
officers,  that  if  any  one  of  our  missing  friends  should  have  happily 
escaped  the  general  massacre,  and  be  still  living  among  these  canni- 
bals, the  only  effectual  means  of  recovering  him  Mould  be  to  com- 
mence firing  upon  the  town.  We  accordingly  got  springs  upon  our 
cable,  and  in  a  few  minutes  opened  the  Antarctic's  battery  upon  their 
bamboo  village.  The  roar  of  the  guns,  and  the  unexpected  effect 
which  our  star  and  double-head  shot  produced  among  their  light  habi- 
tations, alarmed  the  natives  to  the  extent  of  our  wishes.  The  eloquence 
of  cannon  was  too  sublime  for  their  nerves,  and  immediately  produced 
beneficial  results. 

A  small  canoe,  containing  a  painted  wretch,  entirely  naked,  was  seen 
to  put  off  from  the  shore,  and  make  directly  for  the  Antarctic.  It  was 
vigorously  paddled  by  this  individual,  whose  whole  soul  seemed  ab- 
sorbed in  the  effort.  Expecting  this  to  be  an  embassy  despatched 
from  the  chief  with  overtures  of  conciliation,  I  ordered  the  firing  to  be 
suspended  until  the  messenger  had  performed  his  mission.  As  soon  as 
he  came  within  hailing  distance,  I  demanded  the  nature  of  his  busi- 
ness ;  but  what  was  our  astonishment  and  delight  to  hear  him  reply, 
in  our  own  language,  "  It  is  I — old  Shaw,  come  back  again  !" 

The  scene  which  followed  beggars  description.  A  suit  of  clothes 
%vas  handed  him  in  the  canoe,  and  he  was  soon  on  deck.  His  wasted, 
emaciated  form  was  lacerated  with  wounds ;  his  face,  deprived  of  the 
bushy  whiskers  which  formerly  shaded  his  cheeks,  was  bedaubed  with 
.paint.  In  short,  he  was  the  spectre  of  wretchedness,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  his  eyes,  which  were  beaming  with  unspeakable  joy.  He  was 
embraced,  and  re-embraced,  and  wept  over  by  every  soul  on  board 
the  Antarctic  ;  the  most  rugged  tar  of  Manilla  not  excepted.  He  was 
greeted  as  one  risen  from  the  dead.  It  was  a  scene  I  shall  never  for- 
get ;  and  when  I  thought  how  urgently  I  had  been  dissuaded  against 
this  enterprise  by  my  friends  at  Manilla,  in  the  fulness  of  my  heart  I 
involuntarily  exclaimed  aloud,  "  Almighty  God  !  I  thank  thee!"  The 
rapture  of  that  moment  cancelled  all  my  previous  sufferings — I  was 
repaid  a  million-fold. 

As  soon  as  order  and  discipline  could  be  restored,  Mr.  Shaw  gave 
us  a  brief  recital  of  his  escape  from  the  massacre ;  his  submission 
and  slavery  to  the  savages  ;  and  the  unparalleled  sufferings  he  had 
endured :  all  which  shall  be  laid  before  the  reader,  in  his  own  words, 


Sept.]  EXCITEMENT  OF  THE  CREW.  439 

at  the  conclusion  of  this  chapter.  The  revoking  particulars  filled  us 
Avith  horror ;  and  were  almost  too  distressing  for  the  more  sensitive 
nerves  of  my  wife. 

As  soon  as  the  crew's  strong  suspicions  of  these  islanders  being 
cannibals  were  thus  horribly  confirmed  by  an  eyewitness,  who  had 
seen  the  monsters  roast  and  eat  the  flesh  of  their  shipmates,  whose 
sculls  were  at  that  moment  hanging  up  as  trophies  or  ornaments  at 
the  doors  of  the  several  chiefs,  their  longing  for  revenge  overleaped 
all  bounds,  and  became  entirely  irresistible.  They  seemed  to  be  roused 
to  a  state  of  desperate  phrensy,  in  the  ebullition  of  which  subordination 
and  discipline  were  in  danger  of  being  lost  in  a  momentary  forgetful- 
ness.  The  unusual  cry  of  "  To  arms  !  to  arms  !"  resounded  fore  and 
aft,  and  was  re-echoed  from  stem  to  stern.  "  Let  us  every  man  to  the 
island  at  once,  and  avenge  the  cruel  fate  of  our  unfortunate  shipmates,'" 
exclaimed  one  of  the  crew.  "  Spare  not  a  single  being  that  wears  the 
features  of  that  accursed  race,"  cried  another.  "  We  will  swear  to 
each  other,"  shouted  a  third,  "  either  to  perish  to  a  man,  or  depopu- 
iate  this  hellish  group  of  islands." 

Thus  whetting  the  edge  of  each  other's  passion,  they  were  soon 
wrought  up  to  a  pitch  bordering  on  phrensy  and  infuriated  madness ; 
and  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  I  could  prevent  upwards  of 
eighty  men  taking  my  boats  and  landing  on  the  island  where  their 
shipmates  had  been  slaughtered,  roasted,  and  eaten.  The  leading 
men  who  urged  to  this  desperate  step  were  the  American  and  English, 
sailors  ;  and  the  others  were  not  only  ready,  but  eager  to  follow  them. 
At  length,  however,  I  succeeded  in  quieting  them,  by  mild  and  gentle 
reasoning;  which  I  have  ever  foimd  to  be  more  efficacious  with  men. 
of  true  genuine  courage,  than  rash  and  violent  measures. 

The  first  burst  of  excitement  having  now  in  some  measure  sub- 
sided, and  the  deck  of  the  Antarctic  become  quiet,  all  hands  were 
promptly  put  to  their  several  respective  duties  :  some  in  tricing  up  the 
boarding  nettings,  others  in  clearing  the  decks,  and  landing  the  frame 
of  a  house  on  a  small  uninhabited  island  about  two  cables'  length  from 
the  vessel ;  while  the  remainder  were  employed  in  mooring  the  An- 
tarctic, and  putting  the  arms  in  complete  order.  i 

After  getting  the  boarding-nettings  triced  up,  fifteen  feet  above  the 
rail,  fore  and  aft,  the  frame  landed,  and  every  thing  in  order,  at  five, 
P.  M.,  the  music  was  got  on  deck,  all  hands  were  piped  to  mischiefii 
and  for  five  hours,  until  ten,  P.  M.,  there  was  great  rejoicing  among 
the  crew,  on  account  of  the  recover^'  of  their  shipmate,  Leonard 
Shaw,  from  his  horrible  state  of  slavery.  During  the  greater  part  of 
this  time  I  was  on  the  fore-topmast  cross-trees,  with  my  spyglass, 
watching  the  movements  of  the  natives. 

Scptejnher  1 5th. — On  the  following  morning  we  had  several  communi- 
cations with  the  smarting  subjects  of  our  sunimar)-  chastisement,  who 
appeared  to  be  much  humbled  and  cooled  by  the  lesson  they  had  re- 
ceived. They  pretended  to  be  convinced  of  their  error,  and  en- 
deavoured to  lull  us  into  a  fatal  security  by  professions  of  future 
friendship  and  good  behaviour.     Their  cunning  was  deep ;  but  had 


440  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  [1830. 

we  sufferctl  ourselves  to  be  deceived  by  it,  we  should  have  deserved  to 
become  its  victims. 

At  eleven,  A.  M.,  we  consummated  a  negotiation  with  lleimeen,  the 
chief  of  tiie  Massacre  Island,  tlm  late  tyrannical  master  of  Sh-aw,  for 
the  purchase  of  the  small  island  on  which  wc  had  landed  the  frame 
of  our  house,  prepared  at  Manilla,  and  brought  out  upon  deck.  The 
contract  was  well  understood  by  both  parties,  and  the  transfer  duly 
made.  AVe  paid  for  this  island  in  cutlery,  trinkets,  &c.,  according  to 
the  stipulated  agreement ;  delivering  to  Henneen  the  specified  number 
of  axes,  hatchets,  adzes,  chisels,  plane-irons,  gimlets,  spoke-shaves, 
knives,  scissors,  razors,  looking-glasses,  and  beads  of  different  kinds. 
^  Mr.  Shaw,  having  acquired  some  knowledge  of  their  language  during 
his  captivity,  acted  as  interpreter,  and  explained  every  thing  satis- 
factorily to  both  parties. 

At  one,  P.  ^I.,  we  landed  seventy  men  on  our  newly-purchased 
territory,  to  which  we  gave  the  name  of  Wallace's  Island,  in  honour 
of  that  brave  and  worthy  officer,  who  fell  by  the  hands  of  the  canni- 
bals in  th-e  massacre  of  May  28th,  while  animating  his  men  to  defend 
tiiemselves  like  true  sons  of  Neptune.  The  timber  on  this  island 
grows  to  an  extraordinary  size ;  two  trees  of  which  we  selected,  as 
conveniently  situated  for  an  important  but  somewhat  novel  purpose. 
From  these  trees  we  cut  avv'ay  the  tops,  at  the  height  of  forty-five  feet 
from  the  ground,  the  trunks  being  six  feet  in  diameter  near  the  roots. 
We  then  extended  floor-timbers  from  the  branches  of  one  tree  to  those 
of  the  other,  on  which  we  laid  a  platform,  projecting  over  every  way 
about  six  feet,  being  about  twenty-eight  feet  square.  On  this  platform 
we  erected  a  house,  or  rather  a  castle,  arrow-proof  and  water-tight, 
sufficiently  capacious  to  accommodate  fifty  men.  Here  we  mounted 
four  brass  swivels,  and  stationed  sixteen  of  our  best  men,  armed  with 
muskets,  who  were  to  sleep  there  every  night.  They  entered  this 
aerial  fortress  by  means  of  a  ladder,  which  was  immediately  dra^vn 
up  after  them. 

While  the  requisite  number  of  men  were  employed  in  building  this 
castle,  the  remainder  of  the  crew  were  busily  engaged  in  cutting  and 
clearing  away  the  timber  in  every  direction,  within  bow-shot  of  the 
edifice,  and  in  raising  the  frame  of  a  house  for  curing  biche-de-mer. 
The  castle  overlooked  the  north  end  of  this  building,  which  was  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length,  forty  feet  wide,  and  twenty-five  feet  in 
height.  Eighty-two  men  after  the  first  day  were  on  shore  every  day, 
diligently  labouring,  until  the  castle  and  house  were  completed.  The 
'*'  trees  were  cleared  away  for  about  two  hundred  yards  back  from  the 
castle  and  curing-house  ;  so  that  in  case  of  an  attack  from  the  natives, 
we  might  have  an  open  field  and  a  fair  fight  for  it.  These  buildings 
were  situated  near  the  shore,  about  ten  yards  from  high-water  mark, 
directly  abreast  of  the  Antarctic.  The  object  of  the  castle  wa«  of 
V*  ^  course  to  protect  the  curing-house  and  the  men  at  work  in  and 
^around  it. 
"'  September  IStk. — We  continued  our  operations  without  molestation 
until  Saturday,  the  18th,  when  the  castle  was  finished;  and  at  six, 
P.  M.,  the  swivels  were  mounted,  and  the  place  garrisoned  with  sixteen 


Sept.]  SHAW'S  SUFFERIN-GS.  44 1 

of  our  best  men,  amply  supplied  with  muskets,  ammunition,  &c., 
together  with  provisions  and  water  for  one  month,  in  case  of  its  being- 
besieged  by  the  natives. 

On  the  following  morning,  at  daylight,  I  saw  on  the  Massacre 
Island  about  fifty  strange  canoes,  whicli,  Mr.  Shaw  said,  belonged  to 
the  other  islands  ;  and  that  he  had  never  known  a  canoe  to  stop  one 
night  from  an  island  on  which  it  belonged  during  the  whole  period  of 
his  captivity.  He  therefore  thought  that  "all  was  not  going  on  right." 
Not  altogether  liking  the  aspect  of  these  strange  proceedings  myself, 
the  crew  were  not  allowed  tc^o  on  shore  to  work  at  daylight,  as 
usual  ;  as  I  thought  tlie  lives  of  my  men  were  of  more  importance 
than  time.  We  therefore  continued  patiently  watching  the  motion  of 
the  natives  until  eight  o'clock. 

In  the  mean  time,  Mr.  Shaw  gave  me  a  still  more  particular  history 
of  the  fifteen  miserable  weeks  of  his  captivity,. which  has  since  been 
laid  before  the  public  in  the  form  of  a  pamphlet ;  and  with  this  inter- 
esting narrative  the  present  chapter  shall  be  concluded. 

A  Brief  Sketch  of  the  Sufferings  of  Leonard  Shaw  on  Massacre 
Island. — "  On  the  28th  of  May,  1830,  while  myself  and  twenty  others 
were  employed  on  what  Captain  Morreil  has  designated  the  Massacre 
Island,  the  natives  made  a  determined  and  too  successful  attack  upon 
our  little  band.  Seven  of  the  number  made  their  escape  to  the  vessel, 
and  the  remainino  thirteen  met  with  instant  destruction. 

"  Our  little  party  of  six  was  on  the  bank,  or  north  side  of  the  island, 
at  work,  totally  defenceless  and  unprotected,  except  by  tlie  tools  in  our 
hands ;  our  arms,  &c.  having  been  left  at  the  house,  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  distant.  Hearing  the  savage  yell  of  the  natives,  which  still  rings 
in  my  ears,  and  can  never  be  forgotten,  we  took  to  the  beach,  and  ran 
for  life.  Here  we  were  immediately  surrounded  by  the  negroes, 
/rhree  of  my  comrades,  nnming  the  gauntlet,  plunged  into  the  water ; 
and  the  rest  of  us,  not  being  swimmers,  tied  again  upon  the  beach. 
The  natives  being  close  in  pursuit,  my  two  remaining  companions 
were  soon  overtaken  and  killed  upon  the  spot,  by  ponderous  blows 
with  the  war-club.  I  alone  outstripped  their  speed,  and  changing  my 
course,  made  directly  for  the  woods. 

"  Here  slackening  my  pace  for  breath,  the  bloodhounds  scented 
their  prey,  and  soon  came  upon  me.  Two  who  were  in  advance  of 
their  party  commenced  discharging  their  arrows  at  me,  and  I  had  now 
no  hope  of  life  remaining.  However  chivalric  might  have  been  the 
effect  of  my  efforts — however  dearly  I  might  have  sold  ray  life,  m  a 
combat  for  its  preservation  against  the  fearful  odds  of  an  enraged  na- 
tion in  arms — I  could  have  no  hope  of  final  success.  Death,  in  its 
most  horrid  forms,  was  all  about  me.  Still  I  clung  to  life,  hopeless 
as  the  case  appeared ;  and  necessity  suggested  a  stratagem  to  pre- 
serve it.  Notwithstanding  the  haste  in  which  I  had  fled,  I  had  kept 
the  axe  with  which  I  had  been  at  work.  I  sheltered  myself  behind  a 
large  tree,  and  elevated  the  axe-liandle  in  the  attitude  of  taking  aiai» 
with  a  musket.  Knowing  the  fatal  effects  of  that  instrument  of  death; 
my  pursuers  fled  from  its  aim.     Making  the  best  of  this  momentary 


4i2  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  [1830. 

advantage,  I  quickly  penetrated  still  deeper  into  the  recesses  of  the 
woods,  and  eluded  their  pursuit. 

*'I  had  now  a  little  time  to  recover  my  breath ;  and  conceahng  my- 
self beneath  some  felled  trees,  began  to  reflect  upon  my  perilous 
situation,  and  devise  means  of  escape.  I  well  knew,  if  I  came  within 
reacli  of  the  war-club  I  must  feel  its  effects,  if  not  instant  death.  I 
therefore  determined  to  remain  in  my  retreat  until  night,  and  then  en- 
deavour to  make  my  escape  to  the  schooner.  'I'he  hours,  though  few, 
passed  like  ages  away,  and  visions  of  horror,  and  hope  alternately 
clouded  and  liglitened  my  heart.  AtlRigtli,  under  the  shades  of  even- 
ing, I  ventured  to  the  beach  in  search  of  the  vessel,  buoyed  up  with 
the  thought  that  I  had  eluded  tlie  grasp  of  the  foe,  and  should  soon  re- 
gain the  schooner  to  relate  the  tale  of  those  who  had  perished.  But 
she  had  gone ! 

"Despair  at  disappointment  so  unexpected  unmanned  me  for  a  mo- 
ment, and  I  inwardly  prayed  to  Heaven  for  death.  My  feelings  at 
this  crisis,  let  the  reader  conceive.  Cut  ofl'  from  all  hope  of  relief, 
nothing  to  satisfy  the  cravings  of  nature  but  an  appeal  to  the  untamed 
savage,  from  whom  no  relief  but  death  could  be  hoped,  and  that  death 
one  of  extreme  torture !  A  momentary  thought  of  self-immolation 
flashed  on  my  mind  ;  but  reason  returned,  forcing  upon  me  the  recollec- 
tion that  the  Almighty  had  set  his  canons  against  scJf-murdcr ;  and  the 
fear  of  something  after  death  made  me  relent ;  and  I  finally  resolved, 
come  weal  or  wo,  to  surrender  myself  up  to  the  natives. 

"  Thus  determined,  I  bent  my  steps  towards  them,  with  wo  in  my 
heart  and  death  in  my  thoughts.  As  I  approached,  I  found  a  large 
party  assembled,  and  preparations  made  for  a  supper.  Advancing 
close  enough  to  observe  every  motion,  my  blood  curdled  as  I  looked 
upon  the  horrid  spectacle,  and  beheld  my  murdered  friends  roasting  for 
the  feast !  I  remained  in  the  neighbourhood  two  or  three  hours,  riveted, 
as  it  were,  to  the  spot.  My  heart  bled  for  the  poor  fellows ;  for, 
though  accustomed  to  the  storms  and  dangers  of  the  ocean,  its  sensi- 
bilities were  too  delicate  to  contemplate  unmoved  a  scene  like  this. 
The  revolting  thought  that  a  similar  fate  awaited  myself  when  in  their 
power  changed  my  previous  resolves,  and  turned  my  footsteps  again 
to  the  Moods.  I  summoned  all  my  firmness,  and  deliberately  made  up 
my  mind  to  starve  in  my  hiding-place,  rather  than  trust  to  the  lenity 
of  such  ruthless  monsters. 

"  The  dread  of  suffering  M'hat  I  had  seen  kept  me  in  my  retreat  four 
days  and  nights,  when  the  calls  of  hunger  forced  me  out  in  search  of 
food.  After  some  time  I  procured  three  yoimg  cocoanuts,  containing 
little  else  than  water  and  shell ;  and  subsisted  upon  these  and  the  refresh- 
ing showers  of  Heaven  until  the  fifteenth  day  after  the  massacre.  The 
weather  upon  these  islands  is  continually  changing,  like  the  April  season 
of  our  own  country ;  alternate  sunshine  and  showers.  My  hiding-place, 
though  it  sheltered  me  from  the  first,  exposed  me  to  the  latter,  and  I 
was,  during  this  time,  literally  dripping  wet.  On  the  morning  of  the 
fifteenth  day,  after  cautiously  looking  to  ascertain  the  safety  of  the 
♦^  measure,  I  stretched  myself  in  the  sun  to  dry.  This,  indeed,  was  ci 
luxury  to  me  ;  but  alas  f  how  brief. 


Sept.]  SHAW'S  SUFFERINGS.  443 

*'  I  had  not  been  there  long  before  an  Indian  came  upon  me,  recog- 
nised me,  fled,  and  gave  an  alarm.  I  followed  him  to  the  beach,  intend- 
ing to  give  myself  up  and  supplicate  for  mercy.  On  the  beach  I  met 
a  party  of  the  natives,  who  had  collected  at  the  shout  of  ray  discoverer. 
I  fell  down  on  my  knees  before  them,  and  with  tears  of  anguish  stream- 
ing from  my  eyes,  entreated  them  to  spare  my  life.  The  chief  of  the 
party  approached,  and  the  others,  seeing  that  I  made  no  resistance, 
dropped  their  bows.  I  did  think,  for  a  moment,  that  mercy  was  not 
entirely  unknown  among  them ;  but  the  precious  thought  had  hardly 
passed,  when  one  of  the  stoutest  chieftains  gave  me  a  blow  on  the  back 
of  the  head  with  a  war-club,  and  I  knew  no  more  ! 

"  In  the  afternoon,  six  or  seven  hours,  as  near  as  I  could  judge,  after 
the  wound  was  inflicted,  my  scattered  senses  began  to  return.  I  raised 
my  hand  to  the  back  of  my  head,  and  found  my  scull  was  broken  to 
the  extent  of  two  or  three  inches  each  way.  I  was  faint  from  loss  of 
blood — disconnected  images  floated  before  my  imagination — and  the 
most  exquisite  pains  darted  through  all  my  limbs.  Turning  and  rais- 
ing myself  a  little,  I  uttered  an  imprecation  upon  the  barbarians,  and 
prayed  to  God  for  deliverance  in  death ;  and  as  my  sight  returned,  my 
vacant  eye  rested  upon  a  chieftain  before  unobserved.  On  my  knees, 
Avith  uplifted  hands,  I  implored  his  friendship,  and  begged  him  to  inter- 
cede for  mercy  in  my  behalf.  I  gave  him  to  understand,  as  well  as  I 
could,  that  I  would  live  with  him  and  serve  him  as  a  slave  for  ever,  if  he 
would  save  me  from  the  vengeance  of  his  clan.  He  gave  some 
slight  signs  of  assent,  and  bade  me  follow  him.  Rousing  all  my  en- 
ergies, I  stood  upon  my  feet  once  more  and  obeyed.  After  I  had  been 
at  his  house  a  short  time,  he  filled  my  wound  with  warm  water,  and 
compelled  me  to  keep  my  head  in  a  position  to  prevent  its  running  out, 
luitil  it  had  cooled,  when  the  same  operation  was  repeated  ;  and  after 
this  was  poured  out,  the  wound  was  filled  with  sand,  and  I  was  placed 
in  a  hut  by  myself,  and  mercifully  suffered  to  remain  undisturbed  until 
the  next  morning. 

"  At  early  dawn  I  was  called  up,  stripped  of  all  my  apparel,  and  set 
to  work.  AH  the  iron  and  tools  plundered  from  the  workshop  were 
produced,  and  I  commenced  the  manufacture  of  knives.  Being  better 
acquainted  with  the  duties  of  a  son  of  Neptune  than  of  Vulcan,  my 
progress  was  slow,  and  my  productions  not  remarkably  well  finished  ; 
but  I  did  the  best  I  could.  I  followed  this  occupation  five  or  six  days, 
and  was  delighted  even  in  such  a  relief  from  their  barbarities  ;  so  much 
so,  indeed,  that  I  almost  forgot  my  wound,  to  which  no  applications 
had  been  administered  but  those  I  have  mentioned.  The  younger 
natives,  however,  gave  me  a  call  occasionally,  to  pass  away  the  time  in 
tormenting  me  with  their  gibes  and  jeers,  and  irritating  and  worrying 
my  patience  in  every  imaginable  way.  But  fiendlike  as  appeared  these 
amusing  freaks  of  the  younger  savages,  they  were  indeed  of  service  to 
a  me,  inasmuch  as  they  served  to  strengthen  my  nerves  and  enable  me  to 
resist  with  greater  firmness  the  additional  torments  which  were  in  store 
for  me.  High  as  my  expectations  were  raised  by  the  railler)'  of  these  keen 


444 


MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  [1830. 

though  unlettered  wits,  I  seldom  suffered  on  the  score  of  disappoint- 
ment.    Far  different,  indeed,  were  the  sufferings  I  really  endured. 

"  When  I  had  got  througii  the  manufacture  of  the  knives,  as  if  de- 
termined to  have  none  of  my  time  misspent,  arrangements  were  made 
for  me  to  visit  the  principal  chief  of  the  whole  group  of  islands.  His 
residence  was  at  an  island  about  five  miles  distant ;  and  1  was  com- 
pelled to  perform  the  pilgrimage  on  foot,  along  the  coral  reef  which 
«'onnects  all  the  islands ;  barefooted,  over  rocks  and  shells,  and  my 
whole  body  com})letely  exposed  to  the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun.  It 
is  in  vain  ibr  me  to  attempt  to  give  even  a  faint  idea  of  the  anguish  I 
suffered  upon  tliat  burning  day. 

"  Every  step  I  znade  left  the  imprint  of  my  foot  in  blood  upon  the 
rocks  and  shells,  and  I  seldom  made  a  step  upon  that  cruel  strand  that 
did  not  open  a  new  channel  for  the  purple  current  to  flow  from  my 
lacerated  feet.  How  I  survived  that  awful  day  I  cannot  tell.  Amid 
the  dreadful  terrors  with  Avhich  it  visited,  me,  I  gave  up  all  my  thoughts 
to  God,  and  cried  aloud,  '  OA,  why  hast  thou  forsaken  me  /'  But  he  had 
not  forsaken  me,  for  he  lovcth  xchom  he  chastencth ;  and  I  was,  with 
almost  superhuman  strength,  enabled  to  bear  up  through  my  suffer- 
ings, and  at  the  latter  part  of  my  journey  my  feelings  had  become  so 
c;illous,  that  I  had  forgotten  all  sense  of  pain,  and  the  whole  of  my 
houghts  had  flowed  into  one  current — and  that  current  directing  my 
oul  in  its  purest  fervency  of  prayer  to  Heaven. 

"  The  king  came  out  and  met  us  on  the  beach,  and  I  was  made  to 
humble  myself  before  him,  and  kiss  his  hands  and  feet.  After  some 
other  trifling  ceremonies,  which  I  pass  over,  those  who  had  me  in 
custody  received  certain  orders,  and  v/ere  then  directed  to  take  me 
back  the  same  night.  A  chill  of  horror  ran  through  my  veins,  and  cold 
drops  of  sweat  started  like  electricity  upon  my  fevered  flesh,  as  the 
import  of  this  order  was  manifested  to  my  bewildered  senses.  Now  I 
prayed  to  God  for  death — any  death — to  save  me  from  the  shocking 
pain  of  retracing  that  rugged  path  I  had  trodden,  and  which  was  marked 
at  every  step,  from  one  end  to  the  other,  with  clotted  blood  from  my 
feet ;  and  my  feet  themselves  were  so  wofully  butchered  that  I  had 
given  up  all  hopes  of  using  them  again  for  ever  I 

"With  feelings  like  these  to  combat,  it  required  a  stouter  heart  than 
]nine  to  resist  despair,  and  I  involuntarily  surrendered  myself  up  to  that 
unhappy  influence.  Thus  1  remained  until  evening  came  ;  when  the 
savages,  seeing  the  utter  impossibility  of  my  returning  any  other  way, 
graciously  took  me  back  in  a  canoe  ! 

'*  The  next  day  my  poor  body  presented  a  spectacle  too  appalling 
for  the  contemplation  of  any  human  heart  or  eye  not  used  to  dwell  un- 
moved on  scenes  of  the  severest  suffering — of  the  most  heart-rending 
distress.  I  was  covered  from  head  to  foot  with  smarting  blisters,  the 
eflect  of  exposure  to  the  sun  in  my  dreadful  journey  of  yesterday. 

*'  In  addition  to  all  this,  and  as  if  my  cup  of  woes  was  not  full  to 
overflowing,  the  younger  devils — if  I  may  be  excused  for  calling  them 
so — commenced  an  attack  upon  my  beard  and  whiskers,  pulling  out 
the  latter  in  large  bunches ;  nor  would  they  desist  from  their  hellish 
sport,  until  I  had,  in  the  extreme  agony  of  my  soul,  implored  of  them — 


#6 


Sept.]  •         SHAWS  SUFFERINGS.  445 

in  cries  of  such  searching  misery  as  to  reach  even  a  cannibal's  heart 
— the  humble  privilege  of  being  suffered  to  perform  that  exquisite  act 
of  torture  myself.  And  at  length  it  was  decreed  that  mercy  so  far 
should  be  shown  me.  I  wore,  at  the  time  I  was  taken,  a  very  large 
pair  of  whiskers, — long,  full,  and  bushy  ;  and  my  beard  had  grown  to 
a  great  length,  as  I  had  not  shaved  since  I  left  the  vessel.  Every 
hair  of  both  these  I  coolly  sat  down  to  extract  with  my  own  hands  and 
a  pair  of  pearl-shells,  used  as  tweezers,  rather  than  submit  to  the  out- 
rageous method  in  which  my  unhallowed  persecutors  had  sought  to 
divest  me  of  them.  Every  twitch  witli  the  tweezers  drew  tears  from 
my  eyes  ;  and  when  the  reader  recollects  the  situation  I  was  in,  he  will 
readily  imagine  that  the  blood  flowed  freely  as  I  followed  the  opera- 
tion. Every  pull  sent  a  thrill  through  my  frame  like  the  application 
of  a  shower  of  needles  ;  and  while  my  eyes  were  streaming  with  tears, 
thus  cruelly  wrung  from  them,  my  cheeks,  and  chin,  and  lips  were 
clotted  with  blood.  This  torture,  which  I  was  compelled  to  inflict 
upon  myself,  or  suffer  it  to  be  more  harshly  performed  by  others,  oc- 
cupied four  days ;  and  the  single  act  of  itself,  independent  of  all  my 
other  suffermgs,  was  suflicient  to  make  me  curse  the  hour  in  which  I 
was  born ;  and  as  I  sat  there  in  my  misery,  the  most  pitiable  object 
upon  which  the  sun  ever  shone,  I  wept  in  deepest  grief  my  forlorn 
condition,  as  I  prayed  again  and  again  to  a  merciful  God  to  take  me 
from  such  monsters  to  himself.  .,-..t,?^;^ 

**  But  while  all  this  accumulation  of  monstrosities  v/as  heaping  upon 
me,  another,  not  less  barbarous,  rendered  their  effect  still  more  severe. 
This  was  hunger !  I  lived  only  upon  the  gills,  and  fins,  and  bones  of 
fish,  after  they  had  passed  the  table  of  Henneen^  the  chief  whose  slave 
I  was  ;  and  my  allowance  of  these  being  insufiicient  for  subsistence,  I 
had  pined  away  to  a  mere  skeleton.  Ascertaining  that  the  rats  upon 
the  island  were  feasted  and  fattened  upon  the  very  offals  which  were 
denied  to  me,  for  the  especial  benefit  of  the  chieftains,  I  set  to  work 
devising  a  plan  to  entrap  some  of  these  stall-fed  luxuries.  I  had  been 
given  to  understand  it  as  a  high  crime  to  kill  one  of  them ;  neverthe- 
less my  fortunes  were  desperate,  and  I  had  110  hesitation  in  risking 
my  life  one  way  to  save  it  another.  In  the  darkness  of  night  I  en- 
trapped many  a  fat  fellow,  and  feasted  upon  him  in  the  silence  of 
my  seclusion  with  more  true  joy  and  a  sweeter  relish  than  the  proudest 
monarch  ever  knew,  surrounded  by  all  the  pomp  and  circumstance  of 
royalty,  when  banqueting  upon  the  choicest  viands  of  the  world.  The 
rats  alone  saved  me  from  death  by  starvation :  and  as  an  expression 
of  my  gratitude,  I  freely  confess  that  I  have  revolted  from  that  portion 
of  the  human  family  who  have  declared  a  war  of  extermination  against 
their  degraded  race.  I  testify  to  the  virtues  of  the  species — I  have 
tasted  it. 

"  During  my  captivity,  and  amid  all  my  distresses,  I  was  subjected 
to  perform  the  offices  of  the  most  degraded  slave.  I  was  a  Acre 
*  hewer  of  wood  and  drawer  of  water'  to  the  meanest  of  their  clan,  and 
a  standing  mark  for  the  ridicule  and  ribaldry  of  all  around  me.  And 
it  was  under  these  circumstances  that  I  employed  every  hour  of  leisure 
I  could  steal  in  cleansing  mv  sorrv  wound  of  the  sand  with  which  it 


446  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  [1830. 

had  been  filled.  Some  limc  after  ii  began  to  heal,  a  piece  of  the  scull 
bone  came  out  about  two  inches  in  length,  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
breadth.  I  took  out  the  sand  gradually  with  my  hands,  and  held  my 
Jicad  in  a  position  to  catch  water  in  the  wound  as  it  rained,  to  aid  me 
in  cleansingr  it.  In  this  wav  I  ^ot  rid  of  it  all  in  about  three  weeks, 
with  the  exception  of  a  stone  about  the  size  of  a  buckshot,  which  had 
forced  its  way  down  into  the  hollow  of  my  neck.  This  caused  me 
much  pain  and  irritation,  and  took  me,  off  and  on,  all  of  two  days  to 
get  out.  In  these  operations  I  had  no  instruments  to  assist  me  ;  my 
fingers  alone  did  the  work,  and  to  these  the  sense  of  feeling  was  of 
course  the  only  guide. 

"  In  this  way  I  '  lived,  and  moved,  and  had  my  being'  until  about  a 
■week  befoi'e  the  Antarctic  returned ;  a  day  on  which  ii  had  been  pro- 
mulgated that  I  should  be  killed  and  roasted  for  a  feast,  at  sunrise. 
At  davlight  I  was  called  forth  for  the  sacrifice,  and  taken  to  that  fatal 
part  of  the  island,  on  the  south  side,  which  had  already  been  moist- 
ened by  the  blood  of  my  friends,  over  whose  roasted  carcasses  the  in- 
human monsters  had  rent  the  air  with  their  shouts  of  fiendish  mirth. 
All  the  dread  labours  of  preparation  were  upon  my  shoulders — the  wood 
for  the  fire,  the  water,  fruhs,  <fcc.,  necessary  to  complete  the  feasts 
•were  brought  by  my  hands  ;  and  all  the  minute  and  degrading  arrange- 
ments for  the  immolation  were  made  by  the  victim  liimself.  These 
being  completed,  the  axe — that  very  instrument  at  which  their  coward 
hearts  quailed  in  the  woods — was  pointed  out  to  me,  and  I  ordered  to 
sil  down  by  the  side  of  it,  and  assured  that  that  was  to  wind  up  my 
career  as  soon  as  the  chief  king  arrived.  As  I  was  prepared  for  my 
fate,  I  received  this  amiunciation  with  calmness  and  fortitude,  and 
awaited  the  happy  moment  of  death  with  impatience. 

"  In  this  condition  of  things,  before  the  appointed  hour  of  sacrifice, 
I  gave  myself  up  to  reflection.  Memory  for  a  short  time  was  busy 
with  the  past,  the  present,  and  the  future.  The  vast  ocean  was  passed ; 
and,  like  a  ray  of  light,  I  was  wafted  to  the  joyous  little  group  upon 
the  school-house  steps  of  my  far  ofl'  home.  Recollection  ran  through 
the  scenes  of  earlier  life,  and  brought  up  afresh  the  innocent  gambols 
of  childhood  and  youth,  when  arrayed  in  smiles  of  contentment  and 
peace.  I  looked  on  this  picture  of  beauty  with  delight ;  but  as  I  gazed, 
it  faded  away,  and  memory  came  back  to  my  desolate  slate,  as  a  shout 
from  the  chieftains  restored  my  senses  to  the  business  before  us.  It 
was  noon,  and  a  messenger  brought  information  that  the  king  was  not 
pleased  to  attend  on  that  day,  and  that  I,  for  the  present,  must  be  dis- 
charged and  sent  home. 

'•  I  camiot  say  but  I  was  disappomted  once  in  regard  to  their  cruel- 
ties, but  I  do  say  I  thought  the  disappointment  more  cruel  than  the 
reality  could  possibly  have  been,  as  the  latter  would  have  ended  all 
my  woes ;  whereas,  if  I  lived,  I  knew  I  must  be  subject  to  their  con- 
tinuance. And  it  was  so.  I  lived  in  continual  torment  from  that  time 
up  to  the  very  hour  the  vessel  arrived. 

"  After  an  absence  of  one  hundred  and  eight  days,  the  Antarctic  hove 
in  eight  on  the  13:h  of  September.  The  natives  first  discovered  her 
as  she  peered  in  beauty  beyond  the  coral  reef,  and  flew  to  my  hut  with 


Sepu]  t»iiW  S  SUFFERINGS.  447 

the  news. '  This  I  apprehended  would  be  the  iiguhl  ibr  wj  deattb,  and 
1  endeavoured  to  confrinee  diem  that  the  Tessel  in  sight  was  not  the 
one  to  which  I  bel<Higed ;  hot  they  were  hardly  to  be  convinced  that  it 
was  possible  for  another  vessel  to  have  diseovered  them  iSi  so  short  a 
time.  I  drew  two  figures  in  the  sand,  one  of  whiidi  I  represoited  as 
the  Antarctic  boimd  on  her  ooorse  from  the  island,  and  tl^  other  as  the 
one  now  coming  in,  and  of  which  I  had  no  knowle^;e ;  hot  my  labonr 
was  in  vain,  for  they  persisted  in  their  belief,  and  woold  not  be  con- 
vinced to  the  conoury- 

**  The  schooner  did  not  come  in  that  night,  bnt  anchored  off  at  a  dif»- 
tance.  T\' :. .  e  lay  thne  tlie  emotions  that  came  and  wem  over  m j 
lieart  both  pleasant  and  painftij^    It  was  deligfatfol,  after  all  I 

had  i:  ^ne,  to  feel  my  hopes  of  release  l»ightened  up  even  by  the 

jHrecafi.  h^nce  of  escape  which  the  arrival  of  the  schoaneir  pfe- 
sented  :  ?  tnter  impossibility  of  canyrTtg-  t^meh  a  measure  imo  ex- 

ecutic  jver  the  prospect,  ar.d  I  myself  down  again  in 

sadne-  -  . . lef.     Thus  I  passed  die  night,  in  fitful  dreams  ol  hope 

and  d  — changing  with  such  r^idity  that  it  was  a  matter  of  doiibt 

to  r.  :  .he  deepest  impr«sion. 

I  fig  adl  was  bustle  and  preparaticm — canoes  came 

?  islands  of  the  groiqi,  crowded  with  warriors — 
;.  -  ^iw  ^1   -u:.  -  'iproar  and  confiisionf  reigned  aroimd — and 

happily,  my  pc  entirely  neglected  and  forgotten.     Five  or 

six  hundred  Wc.  .. :  cs,  cm  the  reel^  &c.,  ocMnmoieed  a ftnious 

attack  upcm  the  -  r,  as  if  they  intended  to  demolish  her  at  a  sin^ 

blow;  but  the  well-directed  efforts  of  her  commander  soon  repulsed' 
them,  and  they  returned  in  disorder,  and  raving  like  lions. 

"■  The  captain— how  fortunate  for  me !— commenced  a  regular  ean- 
iHMiade  iip(m  the  island ;  wlucb,  d^^roying  their  houses  and  hves  indb- 
criminately,  excited  great  constematifm  amcmg  them,  and  led  to  the 
measme  flf  sending  me  to  sue  for  a  parley.  This  having  be^i  decided 
upon,  I  was  brou^t  forth,  and  desired  by  the  queen  to  go  off  and  stop 
the  *  booing,^  as  she  termed  the  thimder  of  the  cannon.  Fearing  a 
shower  of  arrows  would  be  sent  after  me,  I  hesitated  and  expressed 
my  fears  as  plainly  as  possible,  ai; !  H  .  my  master,  was  sent  for, 

and  desired  to  seiulme  <m  boE~^  IT '  ulu.  not  like  to  trust  me  out  of 
his  reach,  but  1  gave  him  to  tui^it^is  '  :^tat  I  would  go  on  board  and 
stop  the  '  booing,'  and  come  immedi^. .._  jack.  And  in  (Hder  to  assist 
his  patriotism  in  sending  me  away  to  save  his  country  from  destruc- 
tion, I  made  him  believe  I  would  on  no  account  undertake  the  mission 
nnless  he  would  consent  to  my  returning  to  live  with  him  the  rest  of  my 
life.  This  bait  took  admirably,  and  he  assmred  me  that  if  I  returned  I 
should  be  for  ever  safe  from  harm,  and  the  object  of  his  especial  care. 

**  I  now  began  to  feel  my  consequence  a  little.  I  stood  between  my 
friends  and  enemies,  in  a  most  conspicuous  light.  To  my  charge  was 
committed  the  diplomatic  functions  of  a  powerful  nation,  and  I  started 
off  to  accomplish  the  object  of  my  mission.  Conceiving  myself  as  yet 
hardly  secure  from  their  treachery,  after  paddling  fifty  yards,  I  returned 
and  made  my  master  repeat  all  his  promises  and  professions,  and  then 
embarked  in  good  earnest,  with  the  l*3agest  and  strongest  pulls  I  conU 


448  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  [1830. 

make  for  the  schooner.  When  I  got  beyond  the  reach  of  the  aavages, 
some  imperceptible  power  seemed  to  give  new  strength  to  my  arms 
and  a  mighty  impulse  to  my  frail  bark — the  little  oar  felt  like  a  feather 
ill  mv  grasp,  and  the  canoe  '  walked  the  water  like  a  thing  of  life.' 

"The  fire  from  the  Antarctic  immediately  ceased  as  the  canoe  came 
off  from  llio^shore,  and  I  made  directly  for  the  vessel.  My  form  was 
emaciated  and  wasted  to  such  a  degree,  and  so  defaced  with  paint  of 
various  colours,  and  my  face  so  completely  changed,  from  the  loss  of 
my  huge  whiskers,  that  no  one  on  board  the  schooner  could  possibly 
recognise  me  ^yithout  hearing  my  voice.  When  I  had  arrived  within 
.speaking  distance,  the  captain  hailed,  'Who's  there?' — 'Old  Shaw, 
come  back  again !'  was  my  reply,  as  I  looked  on  the  goal  1  pursued 
with  a  heart  full  of  joy  to  the  brim.  I  soon  came  alongside,  where  I 
received  a  suit  of  clothes,  put  them  on,  and  mounted  once  more  the 
bright  deck  of  the  Antarctic. 

"And  what  a  scene  was  here  ! — the  captain  and  his  good  lady  clung 
round  my  neck  and  wept  for  joy ;  and  all  the  crew  received  me  with  a 
welcome  so  generous,  so  cordial,  and  affectionate,  that  all  my  woes 
were  for  the  time  forgotten, — and  the  scene,  the  occasion,  and  the 
bliss  are  so  engraven  upon  my  memory,  that  they  can  only  be  effaced 
when  the  last  spark  of  life  is  extinct. 

"  The  whole  of  these  islands  are  under  the  absolute  sway  of  a  single 
chief.  Each  of  the  separate  islands  has  a  subordinate  chief,  with 
many  others  dependent  on  him.  I  could  discover  among  them  no  trace 
of  religion — no  appearance  of  any  thing  like  a  reverence  for  a  superior 
power.  The  chiefs  indulge  in  polygamy,  but  the  generality  of  the  men 
have  but  one  wife.  The  women  are  reserved  and  chaste,  their  hus- 
bands killing  them  without  any  scruples  on  the  least  suspicion  of  infi- 
delity. As  I  saw  but  few  children  during  my  captivity,  it  is  ray  im- 
pression they  kill  them  all  except  those  of  the  chiefs.  Their  huts  are 
simple,  and  constructed  of  bamboo,  and  covered  with  cocoanut  leaves." 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Massacre  Islands — More  Treachery — Wallace's  Island  invaded — The  Castle  at- 
tacked— The  Assailants  defeated — Henneen  slain — Massacre  Island  evacuated 
by  the  Natives — The  Antarctic's  Crew  land — Interxnent  of  the  Martyrs'  Sculls — 
Holmes's  narrow  Escape — The  Enterprise  abandoned — Sail  for  Bouka  Island — 
St.  George's  Channel — New-Ireland — The  Natives — Fertility  and  natural 
Riches  of  the  Country— New-Britain — Dampier's  Island. 

The  suspicious  movements  alluded  to  in  the  last  chapter  continued 
to  engage  our  attention  until  eight  A.  M.,  when  Henneen,  the  chief  of 
the  Massacre  Island,  came  off  to  the  edge  of  the  reef,  to  offer  us  some 
fruit,  which  he  had  been  in  the  habit  of  doing  four  or  five  times  every 
<3ay,  since  our  purchase  of  Wallace's  Island  ;  and  we  had  always  sent 


Sept.]  WALLACE'S  ISLAND— MORE  TREACHERY.  44^ 

a  boat  in,  to  receive  his  fruit,  and  pay  him  for  it.  Suspecting  some 
treachery,  however,  on  the  present  occasion,  I  would  allow  no  boat  to 
meet  him.  He  remained  there,  holding  his  fruit  up  to  view,  for  about 
a  quarter  of  an  hour  ;  when,  finding  no  preparations  on  foot  to  meet 
him,  he  started  for  Wallace's  Island. 

This  circumstance  surprised  us  not  a  little,  as  not  one  of  the  natives 
had  landed  on  that  island  since  we  first  took  possession  of  it.  In  the 
next  moment,  to  our  utter  astonishment,  we  saw  about  one  hundred 
canoes  put  off  from  the  back,  side  of  the  Massacre  Island,  and  all 
steering  for  Wallace's  Island,  in  order  of  battle.  Their  object  was  now 
too  manifest  to  be  mistaken,  and  we  took  our  measures  accordingly. 
The  guns  of  the  Antarctic  were  immediately  run  out ;  and  without  the 
least  noise,  our  preparations  were  in  a  moment  completed. 

Henneen  was  the  first  to  reach  the  island  and  the  first  to  land,  which 
he  did  on  the  beach  directly  in  front  of  the  castle.  The  instant  his 
foot  had  touched  the  sand,  he  gave  the  horrid  warhoop ;  and  the 
echoes  of  the  infernal  yell  were  sti]l  busy,  when,  with  an  answering 
shout,  out  darted  from  the  thicket  in  rear  of  the  castle  two  hundred 
painted  devils,  armed  with  bows  and  war-clubs !  These  must  have 
secreted  themselves  there  the  night  before,  unperceived  by  our  look-out 
at  the  castle,  which  was  now  about  to  be  assailed  on  two  sides  at  once, 
in  front  and  rear.  When  the  assailants  had  advanced  to  within  one 
hundred  and  fifty  yards  of  their  object,  they  opened  upon  it  with  their 
archery,  and  showers  of  arrows  rattled  on  its  roof  and  sides  like  a  squall 
of  hail.  They  still  advanced,  and  still  discharged  their  arrows,  with 
deafening  yells,  and  looks  of  desperate  ferocity,  till  within  fifteen  yards 
of  the  yet  silent  batter}',  in  the  sides  and  roof  of  wliich  were  now  stick- 
inor  about  three  thousand  arrows. 

Obedient  to  previous  orders,  in  anticipation  of  such  an  emergency, 
our  men  in  the  garrison  were  careful  not  to  waste  their  ammunition, 
but  waited  for  the  savages  to  come  to  close  quarters,  some  of  them  being 
within  forty  feet  before  a  gun  was  fired  from  the  fortress.  The  swivels 
and  muskets  then  spoke  to  some  purpose ;  while  the  Antarctic  opened 
her  larboard  battery>Dn  the  canoes,  which  were  all  between  her  and 
the  now  blazing  castle.  The  savages  had  not  anticipated  such  a  ter- 
rific reaction ;  desperate  as  they  were,  they  could  not  stand  the  fury 
of  the  shock ;  but  hastily  gathered  up  their  wounded,  and  part  of  the 
killed,  and  made  a  precipitate  and  disorderly  retreat,  leaving  many  of 
their  war-implements  scattered  about  the  field. 

The  roar  of  our  cannon,  echoed  and  re-echoed  as  it  was  from  every 
island  in  tlve  group,  evidently  terrified  the  savages  more  than  the  mys- 
terious fall  of  their  companions.  Unlike  their  arrows,  our  messengers 
of  death  were  invisible — "  unseen,  but  felt,"  and  their  fatal  effect  was 
naturally  attributed  to  the  awful  bellowing  of  the  blazing  engines, 
instead  of  their  contents  ;  as  some  people  tremble  at  a  peal  of  thunder, 
who  are  unmoved  by  the  lightning's  flash.  They  considered  themselves 
in  danger  so  long  as  they  could  hear  the  sound  of  our  guns;  which,  it 
being  perfectly  calm,  fairly  made  the  forests  tremble,  as  it  reverberated 
through  the  islands,  and  died  away  among  the  distant  coral  reefs 
Great  numbers  of  them  took  the  water,  like  terrified  seals,  and  sought 

Ff 


<^'5^  MASSACRE  ISLANDS.  [1830. 

for  safety  by  plunging  beneath  its  glassy  bosom,  leaving  their  canoes  to 
the  management  of  one  or  two  men  in  each,  who  happened  to  be  gifted 
with  stronger  nerves.  As  self-defence  was  our  sole  object,  we  of 
course  had  no  motive  for  molesting  or  retarding  t'leir  retreat,  but  wished 
them  "  God-speed,"  from  the  heart. 

Our  attention  was  now  attracted  by  a  display  of  the  American  flag 
from  one  of  the  posts  of  the  eitadel,  bristling  with  arrows  as  thickly 
planted  as  they  could  stick.  This  symbol  of  triumph  was  hailed  with 
tliree  hearty  cheers  from  the  Antarctic,  which  was  instantly  responded 
to  by  our  brave  lads  of  the  "  castle  in  the  air,"  while  their  drummer 
and  lifer  struck  up  the  cheering  national  air  of  Yankee  Doodle.  After 
which,  in  honour  of  the  brave  British  tars,  comprising  a  respectable 
portion  of  our  crew,  they  played  ^^  Rule  Britannia.'''' 

Our  boats  were  now  immediately  lowered,  and  all  hands,  with  the 
exception  of  the  boatswain,  gunner,  and  the  first  officer,  landed  on 
Wallace's  Island.  Here,  on  the  beautiful  garden-spot  we  had  cleared, 
-instead  of  tender  plants  and  flowers,  springing  from  the  virgin  soil,  we 
found  horrid  vestiges  of  the  recent  conflict ;  the  ground  being  covered 
Avith  the  crimson  clotted  blood  of  these  obstinate,  infuriated  savages. 
They  had  dearly  atoned  for  their  treachery ;  the  manes  of  our  massa- 
cred friends  were  surely  appeased — for  their  deaths  had  been  fearfully 
.avenged  !  But  revenge  was  not  our  object ;  this  bloody  business  was 
■i^ot  of  our  seeking.  Two  men  only  were  woimdcd  on  our  part,  by 
arrows  which  penetrated  the  ports.  Their  names  were  George  Burns 
and  William  Hughes  ;  both  English  seamen. 

Vv^e  now  turned-to,  and  made  up  for  losl  time,  in  finishing  our 
curing-house,  and  clearing  away  the  forest  still  farther  back,  in  rear 
of  the  castle.  Burns  and  Hughes  were  taken  on  board  the  Antarctic, 
where  their  wounds  were  dressed  ;  one  of  them  being  wounded  in  the 
head  and  the  other  in  the  leg.  Neither  of  their  wounds,  however,  was 
xiangerous,  and  in  a  few  days  they  both  returned  to  their  duty. 

■September  19///. — On  Sunday,  tlie  19th  of  September,  at  eight,  A.  M., 
•that  archfiend  of  treachery  Hcnnecn,  chief  of  the  Massacre   Island, 
-  came  oft'aoain  to  the  edse  of  the  reef,  as  he  had  done  the  morning  before, 
-previous  to  the  attack ;  and  with  his  usual  pretensions  of  friendsliip, 
oirered  us  fruit,  calling  for  Shaw  to  come  with  the  boat  and  meet  him. 
The  small  boat  was  accordingly  sent  in,  well  armed  (a  precaution 
which  we  had  never  taken  before),  witli  orders  to  shoolhim  if  it  should 
appear  that  he  meditated  treachery.     Our  boat  pulled  in  close  along- 
side of  this  reckless  villain's  canoe,  where  was  seen  his  bow  lying 
across  her,  with  a  bearded  arrow  fixed  to  the  string,  ready  to  be  dis- 
charged in  a  moment.     In  the  next  instant  he  seized  it,  and  was  in 
the  act  of  taking  a  deadly  aim  at  the  cockswain  in  our  boat,  wlien  the 
latter  raised  his  piece,  and  put  a  sudden  stop  to  the  career  of  this 
unprincipled  wretch ;  by  which  act  he  doubtless  saved  his  own  life 
and  that  of  his  companions. 

In  his  hurry  and  anxiety  to  pull  the  trigger  before  the  twanging  of 
the  bowstring,  the  cockswain's  aim  was  not  so  exact  as  he  intended. 
The  wound  was  mortal,  but  not  instantly  so.  Simultaneously  with 
lihe  flash  of  the  musket,  a  fleet  of  canoes  put  oflf  from  the  Massacre 


Oct.]  HEXXEEN  SLAIN— HOLMES'S  ESCAPE.  45 1 

Island^  which  was  not  more  than  two  hundred  yards'  distance,  to  pro- 
tect their  chief.  In  the  confusion  of  this  critical  moment,  the  men  in  our  ' 
small  boat  lost  one  of  their  oars,  wliich  occasioned  them  so  much  em- 
barrassment as  induced  us  to  send  in  the  two  large  boats,  armed  with 
swivels  and  musketry,  to  protect  the  yawl.  A  smart  engagement 
ensued,  which  lasted  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  when  the  savages 
were  driven  back  to  their  island,  but  not  without  the  body  of  Henneen, 
who  breathed  out  his  treacherous  soul  before  they  reached  the  beach. 

The  death  of  their  chief  spread  such  terror  and  dismay  among  the 
savages  of  the  Massacre  Island,  that  the  inhabitants  all  precipitately 
fled  from  the  place ;  so  that  by  two,  P.  M.,  not  a  man,  woman,  or 
child  was  to  be  found  upon  it,  but  all  had  sought  refuge  on  some  others 
of  the  group.  All  hands  were  immediately  broke  off*  from  their  work, 
and  landed  on  the  evacuated  island,  where  we  found  the  sculls  of  five 
of  our  unfortunate  crew,  hanging  at  the  door  of  Henneen's  residence, 
as  trophies  of  his  too  successful  treachery  and  barbarity.  The  remain- 
der of  the  afternoon  was  devoted  to  the  melancholy  ceremony  of  burying 
them,  which  was  performed  with  all  due  solemnity ;  the  colours  of  the 
Antarctic  being  at  half-mast,  mmute  guns  fired,  and  a  dirge  or  death- 
march  played  to  and  from  the  place  of  interment. 

September  2St/t. — On  Monday,  the  28th,  our  building  on  Wallace's 
Island  was  completed ;  when  we  commenced  collecting  and  curing 
biche-de-mer ;  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  continual  attempts  of  the 
natives  to  attack  our  boats  and  harass  the  men  engaged  in  collecting 
this  valuable  article  from  the  coral  reefs,  we  should  have  succeeded 
in  procuring  a  very  handsome  cargo  in.  the  course  of  a  few  months. 
Under  such  disadvantages,  we  continued  our  operations,  perpetually 
assailed  and  harassed  by  the  natives,  day  and  night,  without  any 
intermission,  or  any  indications  on  their  part  of  a  desire  to  come  upon 
terms  of  amity  with  us  again.  ' 

October  2Sth. — On  Tliursday,  the  28th  of  October,  we  found  that 
the  natives  were  once  more  lying  in  ambush  for  our  men.  At  four» 
P.  M.,  one  of  the  crew,  Thomas  Holmes,  being  on  shore  at  the  Massacre 
Island,  filling  some  water-casks  from  a  spring,  was  suddenly  surprised 
by  fifteen  of  the  natives,  all  of  whom  instantly  aimed  their  pointed 
arrows  at  his  breast.  At  the  same  moment^  Holmes  presented  his 
musket,  which  caused  them  all  to  drop  down  upon  their  haunches. 
Perceiving  that  this  manoeuvre  produced  the  desired  effect,  he  held  his 
fire,  slowly  retreating  backwards  towards  the  shore,  with  his  piece 
still  ready  for  an  aim.  The  natives  continued  to  follow  him,  and 
several  times  attempted  to  discharge  a  volley  of  arrows ;  but  he  as 
often  presented  his  piece,  which  invariably  caused  them  to  squat  upon 
the  ground. 

In  this  manner  Holmes  continued  manoeuvring,  without  discharging 
his  piece,  or  giving  them  an  opportunity  of  notching  their  arrows,  until 
he  reached  the  edge  of  the  beach ;  when,  fearful  of  his  eluding  them 
entirely,  and  eff*ecting  his  escape,  they  made  a  furious  rush  upon  him, 
which  compelled  him  to  pull  the  trigger,  and  their  leader  fell,  just  as 
he  was  on  the  point  of  discharging  an  arrow.  This  was  the  brother 
of  the  treacherous  Henueen,  whose  death  he  was  thus  seeking  to 

Ff3 


452  LEAVE  MASSACRE  ISLANDS— BOUKA  ISLAND.       [1830^ 

avenge.  A  buckshot  entered  his  heart,  and  two  others,  uho  were 
Avouiuled  by  the  same  discharge,  fell  to  the  ground.  Our  gallant  tar 
then  retreated  as  fast  as  possible ;  but  before  he  had  got  beyond  bow- 
shot distance,  he  found  that  the  remaining  twelve  were  aiming  their 
arrows  at  his  body  ;  upon  which  he  again  presented  his  musket,  which 
produced  the  same  eftect  as  before  ;  and  before  they  could  recover 
themselves  he  was  beyond  the  reach  of  their  arrows,  being  taken  up 
by  a  boat  sent  to  his  assistance  from  AVallace's  Island.  Had  he  dis- 
charged his  musket  when  first  surprised  at  the  spring  in  the  forest,  he 
must  inevitably  have  fallen  a  prey  to  those  ferocious  cannibals.  His 
presence  of  mind  was  fortunately  equal  to  the  emergency,  and  the 
Antarctic  was  not  deprived  of  the  services  of  this  brave  British  seaman. 

We  now  gave  up  all  hopes  of  procuring  a  cargo  of  hiche-de-rner  at 
this  group  of  islands,  on  account  of  the  unappeaseable  vindictiveness 
and  incessant  hostilities  of  the  natives,  combined  with  our  scarcity  of 
provisions.  We  therefore  took  on  board  what  we  had  collected  and 
cured,  which  was  about  two  hundred  piculs ;  a  picul  being  133J  lbs. 
avoirdupois.  We  then  set  lire  to  our  houses,  and  bade  a  final  adieu 
to  this  inhospitable  race  of  islanders. 

November  SJ. — This  was  on  Wednesday,  the  3d  of  November,  1830  ; 
when,  at  four,  P.  M.,  we  took  our  leave  of  the  Massacre  Islands, 
which  had  caused  me  so  many  anxious  days  and  sleepless  nights, 
with  the  loss  of  thirteen  of  my  brave  crew,  butchered  without  pro- 
vocation or  suspicion  of  hostilities.  Incidents  like  these  become  too 
deeply  impressed  upon  the  mind  ever  to  be  eradicated.  We  steered 
away  to  the  westward,  for  Bouka  Island,  lying  off  the  north  end  of 
Bougainville's,  with  a  light  breeze  from  east-south-east,  and  fair  weather. 
At  six  A.  M.,  on  the  following  morning,  the  north  end  of  Bouka 
was  in  sight,  bearing  west-half-south,  distant  five  leagues.  A  light 
breeze  springing  up,  we  soon  gained  the  north  coast  of  the  island, 
where  we  were  visited  by  many  of  the  natives,  who  showed  the  same 
treacherous  and  warlike  disposition  as  the  savages  of  the  Massacre 
Islands.  Their  personal  appearance,  character,  manners,  habits,  and 
customs,  as  well  as  their  war  implements  and  fishing  utensils,  are 
similar  in  every  respect ;  but  their  canoes  are  much  larger,  and  go 
very  swift  with  the  paddles,  when  they  have  their  full  complement  of 
men  on  board,  which  is  from  fifteen  to  forty-five,  according  to  tne 
size  of  the  canoes. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  between  the  Massacre  Islands  and 
Bouka  we  saw  many  large  shoals  of  sperm-whales,  which  were  feed- 
ing, and  appeared  to  be  perfectly  tame.  This,  I  have  no  doubt,  would 
be  good  whaling  ground  for  fast-sailing  ships  that  are  well  armed,  after 
the  season  is  over  on  the  coast  of  Japan.  But  they  must  carefully 
avoid  all  boat  communication  with  the  natives,  and  never  send  the 
boats  after  a  whale  while  the  natives  are  alongside,  or  when  they  are 
on  the  water  with  three  or  four  canoes,  at  any  considerable  distance 
from  the  shore.  Their  canoes  are  much  swifter  than  any  whale-boat, 
and  they  are  ever  on  the  alert  to  cut  off  such  boats  as  are  beyond 
gun-shot  from  the  ship ;  which  is  easily  effected  when  the  wind  is 


]>fov.] 


ST.  GEORGE'S  CHANNEL.  453 


light,  or  in  one  of  those  calms  which  are  so  common  in  the  vicinity 
of  these  islands. 

On  examining  the  north  and  west  coast  of  this  island,  we  found  it 
bordered  with  coral  reefs,  and  rich  in  the  articles  of  hiche-de-mery 
pearl-shell,  and  the  hawk's-bill  tortoise.  Tiie  upland  parts  of  the 
island  produce  sandal-Avood,  which  must  be  of  the  best  quality,  judging 
by  a  specimen  I  examined  in  a  paddle  we  procured  from  one  of  the 
canoes.  Having  satisfied  ourselves  on  these  particulars,  we  shaped 
our  course  for  the  south  end  of  New-Ireland,  which  we  reached  on 
Thursday  mornintr,  the  4th  of  November,  at  five,  A.  M.,  when  we 
were  close  in  whh  Cape  St.  George,  in  lat.  4^  48'  S.,  long.  152^  46'  E. 

November  4th. — We  continued  on  our  passage  through  St.  George's 
Channel,  which  is  formed  by  the  west  side  of  New-Ireland  and  the 
east  side  of  New-Britain.  This  channel  or  strait  has  been  justly 
represented  by  Captain  Carteret  as  being  the  most  beautiful  passage 
ever  formed  by  nature.  The  lofty  hills  on  each  side,  which  appear  to 
tower  above  the  clouds,  are  covered  to  their  very  summits  with  forests 
of  gigantic  growth.  These  mighty  eminences,  in  their  gradual  descent 
towards  the  shores,  gently  decline  into  an  undulating  surface  of  plains 
and  valleys,  swelling  mounds,  level  lawns,  and  meadows  of  the  deep- 
est green.  These  are  intersected  with  cr\-stal  streams,  and  inter- 
spersed with  groves  of  the  richest  foliage ;  fruits,  flowers,  plants,  and 
herbs,  besides  many  highly  valuable  drugs  and  minerals.  Among  the 
vegetable  productions  of  larger  growth  is  the  sandal-wood ;  which,  as 
if  conscious  of  its  innate  worth,  is  only  found  in  the  most  elevated 
fiituations,  where  it  grows  spontaneously.  The  less  aspiring  ebony  is 
content  with  an  humbler  station,  where  it  is  surrounded  by  many 
valuable  die-woods,  and  woods  of  various  kinds  suitable  for  fine  cabinet- 
work. 

But  the  richest  production  of  these  two  islands,  New-Britain  and 
New-Ireland,  is  the  nutmeg-tree,  which  grows  spontaneously,  to  an 
immense  size,  in  many  parts  of  the  interior.*     Were  the  natives  taught 

■*  The  nutmeg-tree  (Myristi'-a  Mosckata)  ia  a  native  of  the  Moluccas,  but  has  been  trans- 
planted to  Bataria,  Sumatra,  Penang,  &c.  An  inferior  and  long-shaped  nutmeg  is  common  in 
Borneo;  the  tree  is  also  rnet  with  in  Cochin  China  and  New-Holland;  but  the  fruit  nowhere 
attains  to  the  same  perfection  as  in  the  Moluccas.  Of  the  several  varieties  of  the  tree,  that  denomi- 
nated the  queen  nutmeg,  which  bears  a  small  round  fruit,  is  the  best.  The  kernel,  or  proper  nut- 
meg, is  of  a  roundish  oval  form,  marked  on  the  outside  with  many  vermicular  furrows,  within  of  a 
fleshy  farinaceous  substance,  variegated  whitish  and  bay.  Nutmegs  are  frequently  punctured  and 
boiled,  in  order  to  obtain  the  essential  oil ;  the  orifice  being  afterward  closed  :  but  the  fraud  13  easily 
detected  by  the  lightness  of  the  nutmeg. 

Nutmegs  should  be  chosen  large,  round,  heavy,  and  firm,  of  a  lightish  gray  colour  on  the  outside, 
and  the  inside  beautifully  marbled  ;  of  a  strong  fragrant  smell,  warm  aromatic  taste,  and  a  fat  oily 
body.  They  are  very  sijhject  to  be  worm-eaten.  The  best  manner  of  packing  them  is  in  dry 
chunam.    The  oblong  kind,  and  the  smaller  ones,  should  be  rejected. 

The  dried  produce  of  a  nutmeg-tree  consists  of  nutmeg,  mace,  and  shell.  Supposing  the  whole 
produce  to  be  divided  into  one  hundred  parts,  there  arc  131  of  mace.  33^  of  shell,  and  53  j  of  nutmeg. 
In  the  ancient  commerce,  and  down  to  the  establishment  of  the  Dutch  monopoly,  nutmegs  were 
always  sold  and  e.\j>ortcd  in  the  shell.  The  natives,  whenever  the  commerce  is  left  to  their  maa- 
agement,  continue  the  practice,  which  is  stronsly  recommended  by  Mr.  Crawfurd. 

The  jealous  and  miserable  policy  of  the  Dutch  has  reduced  the  trade  in  nutmegs  to  a  mere  trifle, 
compared  to  what  it  would  otherwise  have  been.  They  have,  in  so  far  at  least  as  it  was  possible, 
exerted  themselves  to  exterminate  the  nutmeg  plants  everywhere  except  in  Banda.  They  bribe  the 
native  princes  of  the  surrounding  islands  to  root  out  the  trees :  and  annually  send  a  fleet  to  see  that 
the  work  of  destruftion  has  been  eflfected,  and  that  the  bribes  have  not  been  bestowed  in  vain.  To 
engage  in  an  illicit  trade  in  spices  is  death  to  an  inferior  person,  and  banishment  to  a  noble  ;  and 
yet,  notwithstanding  the.se  tremendous  penalties,  it  is  supposed  that  about  60,000  lbs.  of  nutmegs, 
and  15.000  lbs.  of  ir.ace,  are  clandestinely  exported  each  year '  In  Banda  the  aboriginal  inhabitant* 
have  been  e.ipatrriied,  and  the  island  parcelled  among  settlers  from  Holland,  under  the  uame  of 


454*^  NEW-IRELAXD.  -  [1830^ 

to  transplant  tliis  tree  and  cultivate  it  properly,  they  could  soon  sup- 
ply any  demand  which  might  be  made  for  its  fruit.  The  population 
of  these  islands  is  small,  but  the  inhabitants  appear  to  be  intelligent ; 
and  were  they  to  introduce  the  pepper  and  coffee  plants,  I  have  not 
the  least  doubt  that  long  before  another  century  elapses,  they  would 
become  the  richest  islands  of  the  eastern  world.  The  climate  and 
soil  are  unequalled  in  excellence,  and  admirably  adapted  to  each 
other. 

But  independent  of  the  natural  riches  of  the  land,  the  waters  around 
these  islands  are  also  tributary  to  their  aggregate  wealth  ;  tjie  richest 
treasures  of  the  deep  abound  on  their  shores.  The  bicke-de-mer 
resorts  to  their  coral  reefs  in  immense  numbers ;  the  pearl-oyster, 
equal  in  quality  to  that  of  the  Socloo  sea,  is  found  in  moderate  depths 
of  water  ;  and  the  hawk's-bill  tortoise,  yielding  the  most  valuable  shell 
ever  imported  from  India,  frequents  the  beaches  in  thousands.  The 
red  coral  is  also  found  here ;  and  ambergris,  the  richest  production  of 
the  ocean,  is  washed  up  from  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  and  landed  on 
many  parts  of  these  islands,  as  well  as  on  others  of  far  less  magni- 
tude, which  lie  in  their  immediate  vicinity. 

In  th€  course  of  the  day  we  hove-to  several  times,  to  permit  the 
canoes  from  New-Ireland  to  come  alongside  with  their  cocoanuts, 
plantains,  bananas,  yams,  and  fowls,  which  we  purchased  for  small 
pieces  of  iron  hoop,  and  a  few  China  beads.  These  people  are  of  a 
dark  copper  colour,  bordering  a  little  on  the  negro  black.  They  are 
of  the  common  stature,  wath  round  bodies  closely  built,-  and  a  full 
share  of  muscular  energy.  Their  heads  are  well  formed,  with  high 
smooth  foreheads  ainl  black  curled  hair,  which  is  longer  and  softer 
than  that  of  the  natives  of  Madagascar.  Their  countenances  are 
generally  intelligent,  and  expressive  of  considerable  mental  capacity. 
Their  eyes  are  black  and  penetrating,  the  nose  well  formed,  lips 
moderately  thick,  parting  sufficiently  to  exhibit  a  fine  set  of  white 
teeth,  and  their  limbs  are  well  proportioned  for  strength  and  activity. 

Their  canoes  are  formed  in  the  same  manner  as  those  of  Monte- 
verdeson's,  but  are  much  larger ;  some  of  them  being  from  eighty  to 
ninety  feet  in  length,  and  carrying  from  seventy  to  eighty  men  each. 
These  are  their  war-canoes,  they  having  smaller  ones  for  fishing  and 

Tparli  keepers.  These  persons,  who  may  be  turned  out  of  their  farn>s  on  the  most  trifling  pretext, 
have  about  2000  slaves,  who  cultivate  and  prepare  the  nutmegs.  The  prices  paid  to  the  cultivator 
are  all  fixed  by  government ;  and  it  deserves  to  be  mentioned,  as  afTordingone  of  the  most  striking 
illustrations  of  the  ruinous  effects  of  monopoly,  that  the  tixed  price  which  the  government  is  now 
obliged  to  pay  for  nutmegs  is  five  times  greater  than  the  price  at  which  they  bought  them  wheii 
the  trade  was  free  !  Such  is  a  rough  outline  of  that  monstrous  system,  which  has  reduced  what 
used  to  be  one  of  the  most  important  branches  of  Eastern  commerce  so  low,  that  it  is  unable  to 
afford  employment  for  the  capital  of  a  single  wealthy  merchant.  We  cannot  conceive  how  so 
enlightened  and  libersd  a  government  as  that  of  Holland  should  continue  to  tolerate  such  scandalous 
abuses  ;  abuses  destructive  ahke  of  the  rights  of  those  subjected  to  its  authority  in  the  East,  and 
the  commerce  and  wealth  of  its  subjects  at  home. 

The  Banda  Islands,  at  a  fair  estimate,  produce  annually  about  640,000  lbs.  of  nutmegs,  and 
360,000  lbs.  of  mace.  During  the  period  that  the  English  had  possession  of  the  Spice  Islands, 
nutmeg  plants  were  carried  to  Peuang,  BencocIcTi,  and  sonse  of  the  West  India  islands.  In  the 
latter  they  have  altogether  failetl,  at  least  as  far  as  respects  any  useful  purpose ;  but  very  good 
nutmegs,  and  in  considerable  quantities,  are  now  raised  at  Pcnaiig  and  Bencoolen  The  mace  is  a 
thin,  fiat,  membranous  substance,  enveloping  the  nutmeg ;  of  a  lively  reddi.sh  yellow,  saffron-like 
colour,  a  jileasant  aromatic  smell,  and  a  warm,  biltensh,  pungent  taste.  Mace  shouJd  be  chosen 
Iresh,  tough,  oleaginou.«,  of  an  extremely  fragrant  sinell,  and  a  bright  reddi.sh  yellow  colour— the 
brighter  the  belter.  The  smaHer  pieces  are  esteemed  the  best.  The  best  mode  of  packing  is  in 
bales,  pressed  close  and  firm,  which  preserves  its  fragrance  and  consistence. 


Nov.]  NEW-IRELAND— NE  W.BRITAIN.  '      455 

Other  ordinary  purposes,  like  those  of  the  Massacre  Islands.  All  of 
them  are  filled  with  out-riggers,  like  those  of  Bergh's  Group,  being- 
made  of  the  like  materials.  Their  war-canoes  are  very  swift ;  but 
they  seldom  use  sails.  The  dress  of  these  natives  (I  mean  such  as 
are  married,  for  all  others  go  entirely  naked)  consists  simply  of  a 
small  tapper,  about  eighteen  inches  wide,  woven  from  the  fibres'of  the 
cocoanut-tree  bark,  which  they  wear  around  the  hips.  Their  fishing- 
gear  is  made  of  the  same  materials  as  their  dress,  and  very  inge- 
niously manufactured.  The  bow  and  arrow  are  seldom  used  by  this- 
people  ;  their  principal  weapons  being  the  spear,  the  war-club,  and  the 
sling.  With  the  first  and  last  they  are  highly  expert,  and  exercise- 
them  with  a  great  deal  of  dexterity. 

We  had  frequent  communications  with  the  natives  of  New-Ireland ; 
we  also  landed  on  some  uninhabited  parts  of  their  coast,  and  pene- 
trated into  the  forests  for  a  considerable  distance.  In  these  rambles 
we  saw  a  great  variety  of  birds,  some  of  exquisite  song,  and  others 
of  beautiful  plumage — seldom  both  combined  ;  but  they  were  all  per- 
fectly tame.  A  very  extensive  and  highly  valuable  collection  of  speci- 
mens might  be  made  on  this  island  by  a  practical  ornithologist,  with— 
out  much  labour  or  difficulty.  Of  quadrupeds  we  saw  none  but  hogs- 
and  dogs,  the  most  of  which  were  running  wild.  We  met  with  several- 
different  kinds  of  serpents,  but  none  that  are  common  to  our  country.- 
Insects  cannot  be  very  numerous,  as  we  saw  but  few. 

Wood,  water,  and  fruit  of  the  best  quality  may  be  obtained  with 
ease  at  any  of  the  harbours  on  the  west  side  of  the  island ;  and  it^ 
some  of  the  ports  you  may  purchase  hogs  and  poultry  at  your  own 
price.  The  waters  are  teeming  with  fish  of  the  greatest  variety  and 
the  most  delicate  flavour  ;  all  of  which  are  easily  caught.  Nature,  in 
fact,  seems  to  have  lavished  her  favours  on  these  islands  in  the  greatest 
profusion,  every  thing  growing  spontaneously  ;  the  hogs  and  the  bird* 
being  the  principal  agriculturists — the  former  breaking  the  surface  of 
the  soil,  and  the  latter  dropping  in  such  undigested  seeds  as  may  have 
been  taken  into  their  bodies  with  their  food.  The  natives  neither 
plough  nor  dig.  Their  bread  grows  upon  trees  in  abundance,  and 
their  drink  is  the  delicious  milk  of  the  cocoanut.  They  live  like  those 
of  the  golden  age,  which  poets  dream  of,  when 

V 

"  The  yet  free  earth  did,  of  her  own  accord, 
Untorn  with  ploughs,  all  sorts  of  fruits  afford." 

"  WheR  rivers  ran  with  streams  of  milk,  and  honey  dropped  from  trees, 
•     While  earth  unto  the  husbandman  gave  voluntary  fees.'' 

Nvvemhcr  6th. — On  Saturday,  the  6th,  we  steered  for  the  north 
cape  of  New-Britain,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  south-east,  and  fair 
weather.  At  four,  A.  M.,  we  passed  Cape  Stephen's,  within  two  miles 
of  the  shore,  and  hauled  immediately  in  to  the  south,  to  examine  the  north 
shore  of  New-Britain.  While  cruising  along  this  coast,  which  is  in- 
dented with  numerous  deep  bays  and  spacious  harbours,  we  were  visited 
by  many  of  the  natives,  whose  persons,  manners,  habits,  and  customs 
are  very  similar  to  those  of  New-Ireland  ;  but  their  character  is  much 
more  savage  and  hostile.     This  island  is  very  thinly  populated ;  but 


456       •  IJAMPIEK'S  ISLAND.  [1830. 

as  respects  richness  of  soil  and  beauty  of  appearance,  il  is  every  way 
equal  to  its  neighbour,  on  the  eastern  bide  of  St.  George's  Channel. 
Its  vegetable  and  animal  productions  are  the  same ;  but  its  shores  are 
much  more  abundantly  supplied  with  the  rich  treasures  of  the  deep. 
Its  coasts  are  surrounded  with  many  small  islands  in  the  offing,  and  it 
is  encircled  with  coral  reefs  from  two  to  ten  miles  off-shore,  with  nar- 
row passages  between  them.  This  renders  the  navigation  difficult 
and  dangerous,  and  demands  every  precaution  from  navigators  who  are 
not  familiar  with  these  seas. 

As  the  coral  reefs,  when  the  weather  is  clear,  show  themselves  best 
at  night,  we  made  the  most  of  our  distance  while  the  sun  "was  below 
the  horizon ;  lying-to  in  the  daytime,  and  holding  intercourse  with  the 
natives.  Otherwise  I  should  have  taken  charts  of  these  islands,  and 
their  surrounding  reefs  and  shoals ;  which,  if  appended  to  this  work, 
would  have  rendered  it  more  useful  to  the  nautical  reader.  Should  I 
ever  again  be  favoured  with  the  command  of  a  vessel  to  this  part  of 
the  world,  I  shall  make  it  a  point  to  execute  charts  of  all  these  islands, 
and  present  the  same  to  the  public  on  my  return,  for  the  benefit  of 
other  navigators.  In  the  mean  time,  I  can  recommend  Arrowsmith's 
charts  of  these  seas,  as  the  most  correct  ef  any  that  have  ever  yet 
been  published.  Had  I  kept  a  journal  with  a  view  to  publication,  a 
thing  I  never  contemplated  until  I  returned  from  my  last  voyage,  when 
my  friends  urged  me  to  the  measure,  I  could  perhaps  have  produced  a 
volume  much  more  interesting  and  valuable  than  the  present.  As  it 
is,  I  hope  this  humble  attempt  will  be  taken  as  an  earnest  of  my  wish 
to  be  useful  to  my  country,  and  the  cause  of  nautical  science. 

We  continued  running  alongshore  to  the  west,  keeping  the  main- 
land close  on  board,  and  having  a  few  little  squabbles  with  the  natives, 
which  no  prudence  or  forbearance  on  our  part  could  prevent.  The 
Antarctic  set  so  low  in  the  water,  and  made  so  small  an  appearance 
on  the  surface,  that  most  of  the  different  tribes  with  whom  we  fell  in, 
ignorant  of  the  effects  of  gunpowder,  had  an  idea  that  they  could  take 
our  vessel  with  very  little  trouble.  The  only  method  we  used  to  con- 
vince them  of  their  error  was  a  little  hud  speakiiig  from  the  mouths 
of  our  cannon,  without  any  arguments  sufficiently  heavy  or  sharp  to 
break  the  skin.  Finding  that  the  report,  without  the  shot,  produced 
the  desired  effect,  we  were  happy  to  save  the  latter,  and  avoid  shedding 
the  blood  of  this  poor  ignorant  race  of  men. 

November  lith. — On  Thursday,  the  11th,  at  eight,  A.  M.,  we  were 
close  in  with  Cape  Gloster,  which  is  the  north-west  extremity  of  New- 
Brhain,  and  the  eastern  shore  of  Dampier's  Strait,  through  which  blew 
a  fine  breeze  from  about  south-east.  We  stood  to  the  westward  across 
the  strait,  and  at  eleven,  A.  M.,  were  close  in  under  the  northern  shore 
of  an  island  of  considerable  size,  that  lies  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
strait,  and  which  I  shall  call  Dampier's  Island,  in  honour  of  its  dis- 
coverer; although  some  navigators  have  already  named  it  Rook's 
Island.  We  were  soon  visited  by  several  canoes  filled  with  natives, 
who  approached  the  vessel  with  great  caution ;  and  it  was  not  until 
we  had  showed  them  some  knives  and  beads  that  we  could  persuade 
them  to  come  alongside. 


Nov.]  DAMPIER'S  ISLAND.  457 

They  at  length  ventured  to  approach,  and  appeared  to  be  very  much 
surprised  at  all  they  saw  ;  the  size,  shape,  and  rig  of  the  vessel ;  but 
above  all,  the  iron  of  the  chain-plates  took  their  fancy,  and  they  ex- 
erted all  their  strength  and  ingenuity  to  get  it  off  with  their  hands. 
Having  the  mortification  of  failing  in  these  attempts,  they  next  turned 
their  attention  to  the  anchors  on  the  bows,  the  chain  cables  that  were 
attached  to  them,  and  the  eye-bolts  in  the  vessel's  sides.  Finding 
€very  thing  too  fast  or  too  hea\y  for  their  purpose,  they  next  attempted 
to  cut  the  chain  cables  with  their  stone  axes,  which  were  made  of  a 
species  of  jasper.  Baffled  in  all  their  futile  attempts  to  acquire 
property  unlawfully,  they  now  condescended  to  resort  to  honest  traffic, 
disposing  of  their  fishing-gear,  war  implements,  a  few  pearl-shells, 
and  some  tortoise-shell  knives  and  shovels,  of  very  excellent  quality. 
They  also  gave  us  to  understand  that  there  was  plenty  of  the  pearl- 
oysters  to  be  had  around  these  islands,  by  diving  for  them ;  and  to 
convince  us  that  the  tortoise  visited  their  island,  they  presented  us 
with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  their  eggs  to  fill  a  bucket,  and  these  had 
evidently  been  gathered  but  a  short  time. 

These  people  are  like  those  of  New-Britain  in  their  appearance 
and  manners ;  but  their  war  implements  are  made  with  much  more 
neatness,  which  bespeaks  them  a  warlike  people.  Their  spears 
are  about  sixteen  feet  in  length,  handsomely  carved  and  tapered  ;  one 
end  of  them  is  ornamented  with  a  bird  of  paradise,  well  stuffed  and 
preserved,  which  gives  them  a  showy  and  tasteful  appearance.  They 
are  made  of  a  kind  of  black  ebony.  Their  war-clubs,  which  are 
made  of  a  material  resembling  tick-wood,  are  about  four  and  a  half 
feet  long,  with  a  two-edged  blade  at  one  end,  and  the  carved  head  of 
a  savage  at  the  other,  the  whole  very  ingeniously  and  tastefully  exe- 
cuted. They  are  also  very  expert  with  the  sling,  which  they  use 
with  great  dexterity  and  exactness. 

These  natives  are  tattooed  about  the  body ;  and  they  are  the  first 
that  we  had  seen,  since  leaving  the  Massacre  Islands,  who  chew  the 
betel-nut  and  chumum.  Dampier's  Island  has  a  beautiful  appearance 
from  the  seaboard,  being  considerably  elevated  in  the  centre,  and 
running  off  with  a  regular  and  gradual  descent  towards  the  sea,  at  all 
points  of  the  compass.  The  whole  stirface  of  this  island,  even  to  its 
highest  elevation,  is  covered  with  one  continued  forest ;  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  few  yam  plantations,  which  are  laid  out  on  the  most  mod- 
erately elevated  places.  The  inhabitants  are  verj''  numerous,  in  pro- 
portion to  the  size  of  the  island.  Their  villages  all  stand  near  the 
seashore,  and  are  pleasantly  shaded  by  the  lofty  and  majestic  cocoa- 
nut  and  bread-fruit  trees.  From  the  appearance  of  these  men,  I  think 
that  in  case  a  ship  should  touch  at  this  island,  without  being  well 
armed  and  manned,  there  would  be  great  danger  of  her  being  cut  off, 
especially  if  she  should  come  to  anchor. 


458  NEW-BRITAIN— NEW.GUINE.\,  [183a. 


CHAPTER  X. 

New-Britain — New-Guinea — Dekay's  Bay — Description  of  the  Natives — Natural 
Productions — Birds  of  Paradise — Requisites  for  a  Voyage  thither — Livingston's 
Cape — Burning  Mountains,  with  Volcanic  Eruptions — Cape  Woodbury,  and 
Woodbury  Harbour — Another  new  Discovery — The  Antarctic  attacked — The 
Natives  astonished — Sunday  and  Monday  taken — Return  to  Manilla — Health 
and  Fidelity  of  the  Crew — Directions  to  Ship-masters — Importance  of  Cleanli- 
ness and  wholesome  Food — Vegetable  Acids,  &c. ; 

According  to  some  navigators,  that  part  of  Australasia  which  is 
called  New-Britain  comprises,  not  only  the  island  of  that  name,  which 
we  coasted  in  the  last  chapter,  but  also  New-Ireland,  New-Hanover, 
the  Admiralty  Islands,  and  several  others  of  smaller  size  and  inferior 
note.  Dampier  first  discovered  this  archipelago  in  1699,  and  after- 
ward ascertained  that  it  was  separated  from  Papua,  or  New-Guinea ; 
and  Carteret,  nearly  seventy  years  afterward,  in  1767,  proved  that 
the  island  of  New-Britain  was  also  cut  in  twain,  by  a  strait  through 
which  he  sailed,  and  which  he  named  St.  George's  Channel.  A  feeble 
description  of  this  channel  was  attempted  in  the  last  chapter.  That 
portion  of  New-Britain  which  lies  on  the  eastern  side  of  this  delight- 
ful passage  he  called  New-Ireland. 

The  situation  of  the  whole  group  has  never  been  very  accurately 
ascertained,  and  I  had  little  opportunity  of  throwing  any  new  or  addi- 
tional light  upon  the  subject.  On  the  most  approved  charts,  however, 
the  northern  limits  of  these  islands  are  placed  about  ninety  miles 
south  of  the  equator,  and  their  southern  boundary  in  latitude  6°  0'  south, 
while  their  longitudinal  extent  is  from  the  meridian  of  148°  0'  to 
153°  0'  east. 

This  group  of  islands  is  separated,  by  Dampier's  Strait,  from 
another  island  of  great  magnitude,  called  Papua,  or  New-Guinea, 
lying  to  the  north  of  New-Holland,  from  which  it  is  divided  by  Torre's 
Strait.  The  island  of  Papua,  or  New-Guinea,  is  as  yet  but  imper- 
fectly known ;  but  as  it  is  generally  delineated,  it  extends  from  longi- 
tude'l30°  0'  to  150°  0'  east,  and  from  the  equator  to  latitude  10°  0' 
south.  This  geographical  extent  presents  an  island  of  very  great 
magnitude,  stretching  fourteen  hundred  miles  from  east  to  west,  with 
a  mean  width  of  at  least  two  hundred  miles.  In  size  it  is  supposed  to 
surpass  Borneo,  which  lies  upon  the  equator  more  than  twenty  de- 
grees farther  west. 

Of  all  Australasia,  it  is  supposed  that  some  portion  of  New-Guinea 
was  the  earhest  discovered  by  European  navigators.  Don  Menezes,, 
a  Portuguese  officer,  in  the  year  1526,  wintered  in  a  port  immediately 
north  of  it,  and  probably  in  one  of  the  islands  close  to  it.  The  Spanish 
navigator  Saavedra,  in  the  following  year,  discovered  the  land  of 
Papua,  or  the  adjacent  islands ;  and  conjecturing  that  the  country 
which  he  saw  abounded  in  gold,  he  called  it  the  Isla  del  Oro.     He 


Nov.]  NEW-GUINEA.  459 

found  the  natives  black,  with  short  curled  hair,  and  going  entirely 
naked.  But  their  civilization,  even  then,  he  says,  far  exceeded  that 
of  the  most  of  the  present  natives  of  Australasia ;  for  they  had  not 
only  swords  of  iron,  but  other  arms  of  the  same  metal.        * 

In  the  year  1543,  Ruy  Lopez  de  Villalobos  ranged  along  the  same- 
coasts,  and  being  ignorant  of  the  country's  having  been  previously 
visited  by  Europeans,  he  conferred  upon  it  the  name  of  New-Guinea.. 
He  represents  the  country  as  having  an  invhing  appearance ;  and  he 
anchored  in  several  ports,  where  he  obtained  wood  and  water.  Sev- 
enty-three years  afterward  this  country  was  visited  by  two  skilful 
navigators,  Le  Maire  and  Schouten,  who  anchored  in  a  bay  where 
two  villages  stood  on  the  shore,  and  had  different  interviews  with  the 
natives,  from  whom  they  obtained  small  quantities  of  provisions. 
They  represent  the  natives  as  being  all  afflicted  with  disease  or  some 
personal  defect,  such  as  lameness,  blindness,  die.  "  These  people," 
say  they,  "  are  the  true  Papoos,  with  black,  short,  and  curled  hair ; 
wearing  rings  in  their  ears  and  noses,  and  necklaces  of  hogs'  tusks  ; 
a  wild,  strange,  and  absurd  people,  curious  to  see  every  thing,  and 
active  as  monkeys." 

I  have  introduced  the  foregoing  particulars  in  this  place,  because 
the  reader  is  now  to  be  informed,  that  on  the  12th  of  November,  at 
five,  P.  M.,  the  Antarctic  was  on  her  way  to  this  coast,  from  Darapiers 
Island,  sailing  at  the  rate  of  thirteen  miles  an  hour,  on  a  sea  which 
was  smooth  as  a  mill-pond,  rendered  so  by  tlie  current  that  set  through 
the  strait  towards  the  north-west,  at  the  rate  of  four  miles  an  hour. 
At  six,  P.  M.  we  were  within  one  mile  of  the  north  shore  of  Long- 
Island,  which  is  about  the  same  size  as  the  one  we  had  just  left,  Dam- 
pier's  Island,  but  not  so  much  elevated.  We  saw  a  few  scattering 
huts  along  the  banks  of  the  seacoast,  and  a  number  of  natives  about 
them,  who  made  signals  for  the  vessel  to  stop.  But  the  wind  coming 
off  from  the  land  in  strong  gusts,  and  wishing  to  get  clear  of  the 
island  before  dark,  we  continued  on  our  course  to  the  westward,  until 
we  had  cleared  the  western  end  of  Long  Island ;  when  we  imme- 
diately hauled  in  to  the  south,  for  the  north-east  coast  of  New-Guinea^ 
or  the  island  of  Papua. 

I  feel  it  a  duty  in  this  place  to  put  mariners  on  their  guard,  by 
stating  that  there  are  many  dangerous  coral  reefs  around  the  two  last- 
mentioned  islands ;  some  of  which  extend  several  miles  into  the  sea. 
There  is  also  a  dangerous  reef  running  off  in  a  northerly  direction 
from  Cape  Gloster,  about  six  miles.  The  reader  has  already  been 
apprized  that  this  cape  is  the  north-west  extremity  of  the  island  of 
New-Britain.  In  cruising  among  these  islands  and  seas,  the  lead  and 
line  are  of  no  use,  as  all  the  shoals  and  reefs  are  formed  of  coral, 
and  rise  from  the  unfathomable  depths  of  tlie  ocean,  almost  as  perpen- 
dicular as  a  stone  wall.  The  only  safeguard  against  such  dangers- 
is  a  good  look-out  from  the  mast-head. 

November  \1th. — At  four,  A.  M.,  on  the  following  morning,  it  being 
Friday,  the  12th,  we  were,  to  appearance,  right  under  the  towering- 
mountains  which  distinguish  the  north-east  extremity  of  th€  island  of 
New-Guinea,  and  which  seemed  to  be  actually  hanging  over  the  deck 


460  NEW-GUINEA.  [1830 

of  the  Antarctic,  although  we  were,  at  that  time,  full  five  miles  from 
the  land.  When  daylight  appeared,  and  dispersed  the  gloomy  shades 
of  night,  we  found  that  we -were  in  front  of  a  very  deep  and  spaciovj^ 
bay,  to  Avhich  I  have  given  the  name  of  Dekay's  Bay,  in  honour  of  that 
highly  distinguished  and  scientific  ornament  of  the  medical  profession. 
Dr.  James  E.  Dekay,  of  the  city  of  New- York.  The  centre  of  the 
entrance  to  this  bay' is  in  latitude  5^  39'  8.,  long.  146°  2'  E. 

There  are  many  Indian  villages  around  the  shores  of  Dekay's  Bay, 
and  the  inhabitants  are  quite  numerous.  Many  of  them  came  off  to 
the  vessel  in  several  large  canoes,  with  the  usual  articles  of  barter, 
cocoanuts,  bread-fruit,  plantains,  and  shells.  They  were  negroes  of 
a  large  stature,  and  sK)me  of  them  appeared  to  possess  considerable 
acuteness.  Their  features  are  coarse  and  ugly,  and  the  expression 
of  their  countenance  is  a  mixture  of  ferocity,  malevolence,  and  crafty 
treachery.  In  one  word,  their  visage  is  a  true  index  of  their  char- 
acter, and  it  bears  the  most  savage,  inhuman,  bloodthirsty  appearance 
I  have  ever  met  with,  the  cannibals  of  the  Massacre  Islands  when 
most  infuriated  not  excepted.  Their  complexion  is  of  the  negro 
black;  hair  short,  curled,  and  crisp';  flat  nose,  thick  lips,  and  monkey 
chin.  But  they  have  one  redeeming  feature,  and  that  is  the  forehead, 
which  is  high,  prominent,  and  smooth,  indicating  intellectual  capacity, 
penetration,  and  decision,  in  a  much  greater  degree  than  is  ever  seen 
in  the  African.  Neither  have  they  the  bow  shin,  the  flat  foot,  or  the 
projecting  heel  of  the  negro  of  the  Slave  Coast  or  the  Congo  River : 
but  their  limbs  are  generally  well  proportioned ;  being  muscular, 
strong,  and  active. 

Both  sexes  go  entirely  naked  (apparently  susceptible  of  no  innate 
ideas  of  modesty),  with  the  exception  of  feather  ornaments,  on  the 
head  and  neck,  which  distinguish  the  higher  ranks.  They  are  all 
warriors,  and  for  desperate  acts  are  equal,  I  have  no  doubt,  to  those 
of  the  Massacre  Islands.  They  use  a  bow  of  the  same  size,  about 
eight  feet  in  length,  with  arrows  of  nearly  five  feet.  Their  archery 
is  superior ;  frequently  bringing  down  birds  on  the  wing  at  the  dis- 
tance of  seventy-five  yards.  Their  canoes  are  very  similar  to  those 
of  New-Ireland,  but  more  ingeniously  finished,  with  carved  heads  and 
sterns,  which  display  a  great  deal  of  natural  taste  and  genius.  Fish- 
ing is  their  principal  employment,  and  their  waters  abound  with  gi-eat 
varieties  of  the  finny  tribes.  Their  fish-hooks  are  made  of  the  pearl- 
oyster  shell,  and  tortoise-shell.  Of  the  former  they  gave  us  to  under- 
stand there  was  a  great  plenty  all  over  the  bay ;  and  the  latter  come 
on  shore  at  night,  on  all  the  sand  beaches,  where  they  deposite  their 
eggs,  and  go  to  sea  again  before  dayliglit.  To  convince  us  of  the 
excellence  of  these  eggs,  some  of  which  they  brought  with  them,  they 
ate  several  of  them  raw,  with  expressive  indications  of  their  being 
highly  palatable. 

We  discovered,  also,  that  th^  beautiful  bird  of  paradise  was  to  be 
found  here  in  immense  numbers,  and  of  a  great  variety  of  species ; 
as  many  of  the  natives  had  their  heads  decorated  with  their  feathers, 
of  the  most  rich  and  delicate  tints.  AVe  frequently  saw  large  flocks 
of  these  birds  flying  from  the  shores  of  Papua,  to  the  islands  in  the 


Nov.]  PL/^  OF  A  VESSEL.  461 

offing;  four  or  live  hundred  in  a  flock,  and  about  five  hundred  feet 
above  the  surface  of  tlie  water.  The  flocks  of  one  species  will  be  all 
the  way  chattering  like  monkeys,  while  that  of  another  will  salute 
the  ear  with  notes  alx>ut  as  melodious  as  those  of  a  flock  of  wild 
geese.  There  is  also  a  vast  diliereiice  in  the  size  of  these  glorious 
birds  ;  some  of  them  being  as  large  as  a  partridge,  while  others  are 
about  the  size  of  a  sparrow.  One  which  we  saw  stufi'ed  and  pre- 
served in  the  most  natural  mamier,  and  stuck  as  an  ornament  on  the 
head  of  a  chief,  was  not  larger  in  the  body  than  a  humming-bird, 
while  its  tail-plumes  were  at  least  six  inches  long.  The  natives  also 
wear  wreaths  made  of  various  other  kinds  of  feathers,  nearly  equal 
in  beauty  to  those  of  the  bird  of  paradise. 

This  country  is  beautiful  beyond  description.  The  seacoast  is 
bordered  with  delightful  plains  and  valleys,  covered  with  handsome 
plantations  of  yams  :  interspersed  with  fruit  trees,  beyond  which  are 
forests  comprising  many  valuable  woods,  both  for  diers  and  cabinet- 
makers. The  inland  hills  and  mountains  are  clothed  in  eternal  spring, 
and  covered  almost  entirely  with  forests  of  gigantic  growth.  Here 
may  be  found  in  plenty  the  highly  prized  sandal-wood,  with  the  black 
and  yellow  ebony ;  all  of  which  ;night  be  procured  with  facility,  and 
at  a  very  low  rate,  by  the  competent  commander  of  a  suitable  vessel, 
properly  fitted  for  the  voyage  ;  a  vessel  so  constructed  that  it  would 
be  impossible  to  board  her,  unless  the  assailants  were  furnished  with 
sharp-edged  steel  weapons  and  firearms,  of  which  nearly  all  the 
South  Sea  islanders  are  destitute.  When  the  natives  are  once  con- 
vinced that  pilfering  is  out  of  the  question,  and  that  the  vessel  is  per- 
fecdy  secure  from  their  attacks,  they  will  immediately  turn  their 
attention  to  trade,  and  will  soon  t'urnish  a  cargo  that  cannot  fail  of 
yielding  unheard-of  profits.  INIy  experience  has  enabled  me,  should 
occasion  ever  ofler,  to  superintend  the  building  and  equipping  such  a 
vessel,  for  such  a  voyage. 

For  reaping  the  golden  harvest  which  now  awaits  the  sickle  of 
enterprise  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  the  means  must  be  adapted  to  the 
object.  The  vessel,  as  I  have  stated  before,  should  be  built  expressly 
for  the  voyage,  and  should  be  of  a  dilferent  construction  from  any 
other.  She  should  have  a  high  deck,  be  a  fast  sailer,  of  about  three 
hundred  and  fifty  tons  burthen ;  and  manned  with  a  young,  chivalric, 
and  enterprising  crew.  She  should  be  supplied  with  experienced 
officers,  who  are  spirited,  but  humane  ;  active,  but  cool  and  deliberate  ; 
intelligent,  honourable,  and,  above  all,  temperate.  They  should  be 
liberally  furnished  with  every  necessary  for  comfort  and  health,  and 
amply  supplied  with  the  suitable  articles  of  trade.  The  commander 
should  be  a  first-rate  navigator ;  one  who  is  familiar  with  those  seas 
and  islands,  and  well  acquainted  with  the  character  and  habits  of  the 
natives,  as  well  as  with  the  quality  of  the  difl'erent  productions  of  the 
country.  If  possible,  he  should  be  a  religious  man  ;  at  all  events,  he 
should  combine  cool  deliberate  courage  with  humanity  and  gentleness, 
firmness  and  dignity  with  politeness  and  delicacy.  He  sliould  be 
scrupulously  attentive  to  discipline,  and  not  less  so  to  the  health  and 
comfort  of  his  crew.     He  should  be  a  man  who  would  revolt  with 


462  VOLCANIC  ISLANDS.  [1830. 

li'onor  at  tlic  ihought  of  isheJding  the  blood  of  an  ignorant  Indian, 
except  when  imperious  necessity  demanded  it  in  self-defence,  and  in 
protecting  the  lives  and  property  intrusted  to  his  care. 

I  um  confident  that  a  ship  thus  constructed,  fitted,  equipped,  officered, 
manned,  and  suitably  armed,  with  a  supply  of  articles  for  trade  to  the 
amount  of  twenty  thousand  dollars,  would,  at  the  expiration  of  two  or 
three  years  (always  excepting  the  dangers  of  the  seas),  be  able  to 
<lelivcr  a  return  cargo  in  this  country  worili  four  or  five  hundred  thou- 
sand dollars.  Besides  the  articles  already  mentioned,  which  are  so 
easily  obtained,  there  are  gold-dust,  ambergris,  many  valuable  gems 
and  drugs,  a  great  variety  of  shells  and  minerals,  together  with  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  hiche-de-mer  and  the  edible  bird's  nests.  Unless 
some  American  seizes  tlie  golden  opportunity,  this  valuable  trade  will 
never  be  of  any  benefit  to  our  counir}-,  but  will  soon  be  monopolized 
by  foreigners.  What  possible  objection  can  there  be  to  forming  a  com- 
pany of  opulent  merchants,  who  would  invest  one  thousand  dollars 
oach,  to  try  the  experiment  ?  Without  experiments  neither  science  nor 
commerce  would  ever  have  improved — even  the  western  hemisphere 
would  have  yet  been  unknown  to  Europeaiis.  Here  is  an  ample  field 
for  the  enterprising  capitalists  of  the  United  Slates ;  for  this  trade  has 
never  yet  been  opened,  or  even  attempted,  by  any  portion  of  the  com- 
mercial world. 

Novejnber  l'S(h. — On  Saturday,  the  13th  of  November,  at  two,  P.  M., 
we  bore  up  and  steered  to  the  north-west,  keeping  the  mainland  as 
close  on  board  as  possible,  frequently  being  compelled  to  haul  off-shore 
to  clear  the  many  dangerous  coral  reefs  which  lay  in  our  course.  At 
six,  P.  M.,  we  were  close  in  with  a  very  conspicuous  cape  or  head- 
land, which  runs  a  long  way  into  the  sea,  terminating  in  a  low  sandy 
point,  on  which  are  many  Indian  huts,  surrounded  and  shaded  by  beau- 
tiful groves  of  cocoanut-trees.  This  pointed  promontory  I  have  named 
Cape  Livingston,  in  honour  of  Edward  P.  Livingston,  Esq.,  secretary  of 
state  for  the  United  States,  the  scholar,  the  statesman,  and  the  patriot. 
It  is  situated  in  latitude  4^  59'  S.,  and  longitude  145''  16'  E. 

In  the  direction  of  north-north-east  from  this  cape  is  a  small  volcanic 
island,  lying  about  six  leagues  from  the  mainland,  which  was  in  full 
blaze.  The  grandeur  of  the  spectacle  at  night  was  truly  imposing, 
•when  the  flames  ascended  upwards  from  the  lofty  summit  of  the  isolated 
mountain,  at  least  one  thousand  feet ;  while  the  red  burning  coals  of 
pumice-stone  were  carried  to  tlic  north-west  on  the  buoyant  wings 
of  the  south-east  wind,  at  an  almost  incredible  height,  and  to  the  distance 
of  many  miles.  They  appeared  to  tlie  observers  onboard  the  Antarc- 
tic like  millions  of  flaming  stars  floating  in  the  air ;  and  my  wife  gazed 
upon  the  scene  with  the  most  intense  interest,  occasionally  ejaculating 
'such  exclamations  as  "  Magnificent !  sublime  !  grand  !  beautiful ! 
wonderful !"  «fcc.  This  island  I  named  after  my  worthy  friend 
Mordecai  ]M.  Noah,  Esq.,  of  New- York. 

We  now  continued  following  the  course  of  the  mainland  of  PapuR, 
or  New-Guinea,  which  tended  to  the  west-north-west,  and  by  eleven, 
the  next  morning,  we  had  passed  six  volcanic  islands,  four  of 
which  were  burning  with  terrific  grandeur.      The  other  two  merely 


Nov.]  ANOTHER  DISCOVERY.  463 

emitted  smoke  from  their  craters.  These  islands  lie  from  six  to  thir- 
teen leagues  to  the  north  of  the  nearest  part  of  the  coast  of  New- 
Guinea.  We  saw  one  volcano  on  a  mountain  in  the  interior  of  that 
island,  which  also  cast  out  ilames  and  pumice-stone. 

November  14///. — On  Sunday,  the  14th,  at  two,  P.  M.,  we  were  close 
in  with  a  projecting  point  of  land,  which  runs  out  from  the  main  island 
to  the  north.  This  cape  is  situated  in  lat.  3^  US.,  long.  142^  39'  E.  ; 
and  I  have  given  it  the  name  of  C'ape  Woodbury,  in  honour  of  Levi 
Woodbury,  Esq.,  secretary  of  the  navy  of  the  United  States  :  a  gen- 
tleman whose  talents,  patriotism,  and  private  virtues  are  too  well  known 
to  require  my  feeble  eulogium. 

Four  or  five  miles  to  the  westward  of  C'ape  Woodbury  is  a  fine  and 
spacious  harbour,  running  in  to  the  south-v/est,  the  entrance  of  which 
is  very  narrow,  being  fronted  by  coral  reefs,  which  prevent  any  surge 
from  the  seaboard  entering  the  haven.  There  is  a  sufficient  depth  of 
water  between  the  reefs ;  but  on  account  of  the  narrow  windings,  it 
^'ill  always  be  best  to  v/arp  in,  when  you  will  be  completely  sheltered 
from  all  winds.  This  harbour  we  shall  call  by  the  same  name  with 
"which  vve  have  distinguished  the  cape,  that  is  in  sight  to  the  eastward  of  it. 

We  are  now  approaching  a  period  of  this  eventful  voyage,  in  the 
narrative  of  which  I  shall,  ybr  reasons  tchick  must  he  ohvious  to  every 
reader^  suppress  dates,  courses,  distances,  bearings,  and  locations. 
Let  it  therefore  suffice,  that  on  leaving  the  coast  of  New-Guinea,  we 
steered  to  the  northward  and  eastward  for  a  few  dai/s,  Riid  then  changed 
our  course  in  another  direction. 

Durin^y  this  cruise,  we  one  day,  at  two,  P.  M.,  were  close  in  with 
a  group  of  islands,  to  which  at  present  I  shall  give  no  name.  They 
are  not  laid  down  in  any  chart,  nor  mentioned  in  any  epitome  of  navi- 
gation. The  group  comprises  about  twenty  islands,  most  of  them 
thickly  inhabited,  all  very  low,  and  entirely  surrounded  by  a  coral  reef 
of  about  seventy-five  miles  in  circumference.  Should  a  chip  fall  in 
with  this  group  in  the  night,  she  would  be  close  upon  the  breakers 
before  her  mariners  could  see  land ;  and  if  not  fully  acquainted  with 
their  danger,  they  might  attempt  to  pass  over  those  parts  on  which 
the  surf  breaks  with  the  least  violence,  in  which  case  the  ship  woidd 
inevitably  be  lost.  The  coral  reef  which  surrounds  these  islands 
varies  in  width,  from  half  a  mile  to  two  miles,  and  has  from  two  to  six  or 
eiglit  feet  of  water  all  over  it  at  low  tide  ;  and  its  whole  surface  is  lit* 
orally  covered  with  biche-de-mer,  of  a  very  superior  quality. 

The  lagoon  within  the  reef,  to  wliich  there  are  only  two  passages, 
has  a  depth  of  from  two  to  fifteen  fathoms  of  water  all  over  it,  with  a 
coral  bottom  covered  witli  many  cargoes  of  pearl-oysters^  equal  in 
quality  to  those  of  the  Sooloo  sea.  The  hawk's-bill  tortoise  are  also 
very  plenty  within  the  reef  At  the  proper  season  of  the  year, 
the  numerous  sand-spits  in  the  lagoon  are  almost  covered  with 
them,  where  they  come  to  deposite  their  eggs,  and  then  return  to  the 
sea.  In  a  few'  days  afterward,  they  again  come  up  on  the  land, 
ibr  the  purpose  of  perpetuating  their  species.  From  this  period  they 
are  continually  coming  and  going  on  and  off  the  sand-spits,  untd  their 
young  ones  have  come  forth,  and  are  capable  of  taking  care  of  them- 


464  A  xNEW  GROUP.  *  [1830. 

selves.  Tliey  then  all  take  to  their  natural  element ;  and  from  that 
tfme  until  the  following  summer,  they  continue  feeding  about  the  reefs, 
but  are  seldom  seen  upon  dry  land. 

There  are  many  other  valuables  here,  which  it  is  unnecessary  to 
mention  at  this  time,  as  a  full  and  particular  description  of  these  islands 
will  be  given  on  my  return  from  another  contemplated  voyage,  when  I 
hope  to  exhibit  substantial  evidences  of  the  value  of  this  discovery.  I 
will*  now  merely  state  that  these  islands  are  all  thickly  wooded, 
containing  thousands  of  cocoanut-trees  and  bread-fruit  trees.  They 
differ  much  in  size,  being  from  three  to  fifteen  miles  in  circuit.  The 
two  openings  or  passages  into  the  lagoon  are  about  one  hundred  yards 
wide  each;  and  have  sufficient  depth  of  water  for  a  ship  of  five  or  six 
hundred  tons  burthen  ;  and  when  once  within  the  reef,  she  may  choose 
her  depth  of  water  to  anchor  in  one  of  the  finest  harbours  ever  formed 
by  nature. 

Though  the  natives  of  these  islands  wear  many  ornaments,  their 
only  article  of  dress,  properly  so  called,  is  a  sort  of  apron  fastened 
around  the  lower  part  of  the  body.  With  the  males  this  is  merely 
the  skin  of  a  fish,  but  the  females  wear  a  small  mat,  manufactured 
from  the  fibres  of  the  bark  of  the  cocoanut-tree,  whieh  reaches  from 
the  hips  nearly  to  the  knees.  In  other  respects  both  sexes  dress 
alike.  Around  their  waists  they  wear  many  strings  of  coral,  shells, 
and  feathers ;  rings,  hoops,  or  bracelets  of  tortoise-shell  around  their 
wrists  and  arms ;  tortoise-shell  and  mother-of-pearl  shell  around  their 
necks. 

The  natives  of  these  islands  are  of  the  usual  stature,  and  well-pro- 
portioned in  body  and  limb.  Their  features  are  regular  and  manly ; 
their  eyes  and  foreheads  indicative  of  much  intellectual  capability,  and 
in  the  general  expression  of  their  countenance  the  observer  will  at  once 
discover  much  ingenious  inquisitiveness,  enlivened  by  good-humoured 
vivacity.  Though  their  natural  descent  may  have  been  originally  from 
the  African  race,  their  skin  is  not  so  black  as  the  negroes  of  unmixed 
blood  in  the  United  States ;  neither  have  they  the  African  flat  foot, 
protruding  heel,  crooked  shins,  &c.,  but  their  legs,  as  well  as  their 
arms,  are  finely  formed,  muscular,  strong,  and  active.  Their  hair  is 
short,  curly,  and  crisp,  and  their  teeth  regular,  sound,  and  white.  The 
chiefs  are  much  tattooed  on  their  limbs,  chest,  and  shoulders,  with  a 
large  slit  in  the  right  ear,  for  suspending  ornaments  or  insignia  of 
rank.     AU  the  males  are  circumcised  at  an  early  age. 

I  was  much  surprised  at  falling  in  with  this  curious  race  of  men, 
differing  in  so  many  respects  from  all  the  numerous  tribes  and 
nations  by  whom  they  are  surrounded.  I  never  saw  any  exactly  like 
them,  in  Europe,  Asia,  Africa,  or  America,  nor  on  any  of  the  islands 
of  Australasia  or  Polynesia.  There  is  not  the  least  resemblance  be- 
tween them  and  the  Malays,  the  Carolinians,  or  the  natives  of  New- 
Ireland,  New-Britain,  or  New-Guinea,  nor  can  I  form  the  least  con- 
jecture from  whence  these  islands  could  have  first  been  peopled. 

At  three,  P.  M.,  while  lying-to  within  half  a  mile  of  the  reef  which 
surrounds  this  beautiful  group  of  islands,  the  natives  came  off  in  great 


Nov  ]  THE  ANTARTIC  L\  TOW.  465 

lumbers,  in  canoes  that  would  carry  from  seventy-five  to  one  hundred 
and  fifty  men.  On  approaching  the  vessel  th'ey  appeared  t*  be  almost 
wild  with  curiosity,  astonishment,  and  numberless  other  sensations  ; 
performing  a  thousand  curious  antics,  and  using  the  qgiost  extravagant 
gestures.  They  then  held  forth  a  long  harangue,  the  ^ibject  of  which 
we  could  not  comprehend,  as  neither  my  31anilla-mcn  nor  the  natives  of 
Yap  understood  a  word  they  uttered.  After  this  they  made  no  scruple 
of  coming  alongside  ;  but  refused  to  trade,  their  sole  object,  which  they 
took  no  pains  to  conceal,  being  plimder  and  perhaps  massacre. 

They  appeared  to  consider  the  Antarctic  as  a  God-send,  driven  into 
their  vicinity  for  their  benefit ;  and  that  all  they  had  to  do  was  to  tow 
her  on  to  the  reef,  and  take  possession,  not  doubtmg  for  a  moment  that 
the  men  on  board  were  so  completely  in  their  power  as  not  even  to  be 
consulted  on  the  subject.  They  accordingly  handed  us  their  warps, 
directing  us  to  make  them  fast  to  the  stern  of  the  vessel,  that  part  of 
the  Antarctic  being  nearest  to  the  islands,  as  she  was  lying-to  with  her 
head  off-shore.  When  this  was  done,  they  all  dropped  astern,  and  as 
the  wind  was  then  blowing  directly  towards  the  group,  they  set 
their  sails,  hove  them  aback,  and  with  the  assistance  of  their  paddles, 
soon  got  rapid  stern-way  on  the  Antarctic,  towing  her  directly  on  to 
the  reef,  which  was  then  only  about  one-third  of  a  mile  distant,  directly 
under  our  lee. 

Their  temporary  success  filled  them  with  so  much  joy  that  they 
could  not  contain  themselves,  but  soon  got  into  confusion.  In  fact, 
they  testified  such  excessive  delight,  that  I  almost  regretted  being  under 
the  necessity  of  dashing  a  cup  of  joy  so  full  and  mantling.  But  the 
Antarctic  was  not  my  property ;  and  though  authorized  to  give  them 
beads,  trinkets,  and  other  baubles,  I  did  not  feel  myself  at  liberty  to 
relinquish  vessel  and  all.  I  accordingly  gave  the  word,  and  the  fore- 
topsail  and  head-sails  were  immediately  filled,  which  soon  turned  the 
tide  of  affairs.  The  towers  now  became  the  towed.,  until  the  vessel 
had  acquired  such  rapid  headway  as  to  part  all  their  lines,  which 
saved  us  the  trouble  of  cutting  or  casting  them  off. 

This  unlooked-for  termination  of  their  enterprise  struck  them  with 
astonishment  and  dismay ;  and  for  a  few  moments  they  remained 
passive,  gazing  at  each  other,  and  after  the  Antarctic,  in  speechless 
wonder.  But  as  soon  as  they  saw  the  Antarctic  heave-to  again,  which 
was  done  as  soon  as  she  had  sufficiently  lengthened  her  distance  from 
the  reef,  they  seemed  to  be  animated  with  new  hopes,  and  all  paddled 
up  alongside,  apparently  determined  to  adopt  some  other  method  of 
carrying  the  vessel.  When  they  had  approached  within  a  few  yards 
of  us,  they  commenced  darting  their  spears  at  our  bodies  ;  but  fortu- 
nately, none  of  them  did  any  injur}*.  I  now  thought  it  high  time  to 
put  a  stop  to  this  trifling,  and  ordered  a  few  guns  to  be  fired  over  their 
heads.  This  manoeuvre  had  the  desired  effect,  as  about  fifteen  hundred 
of  the  poor  terrified  assailants  jumped  into  the  water;  where  nothing 
but  their  black  curly  heads  could  be  seen  when  the  smoke  had  dis- 
persed. The  flame  and  the  smoke,  and  the  whistling  of  the  balls 
through  the  air  just  over  their  heads,  and  above  all  the  roar  of  the 
cannon,  almost  deprived  them  of  their  senses ;  so  that  one  of  them,  in 


4^  SUNDAY  AND  MONDAY.  [1830. 

the  general  confusion,  liad  come  near  the  Antarctic.  A  waist-boat  was 
immediately  let  down,  and  picked  up  the  straggler,  while  tlie  others 
were  permitted  to  make  as  precipitate  a  retreat  as  they  pleased. 

A  few  days  anterior  to  tliis  incident,  we  had,  mider  similar  circum- 
siances,  picked  up  a  native  belonging  to  another  group  ol'islands,  about 
tlirce  hundred  miles  distant  from  the  one  just  described.  These  two 
groups  are  so  nearly  alike  in  every  respect,  that  for  the  present  what 
1  have  said  of  one  Mill  apply  to  both,  with  the  single  exception  of  the 
lano-uage  spoken  by  the  natives.  Our  two  captives  could  not,  for  some 
time,  interchange  their  sentiments  verbally,  though  they  could  sympa- 
tiiize  with  each  other  by  signs  and  looks. 

My  object  in  bringing  these  two  men  to  the  United  States  is  already 
known  to  the  public,  and  is,  I  trust,  duly  appreciated.  In  the  year  1830 
they  were  ferocious  savages,  and,  as  they  now  confess  with  horror,  even 
CANNIBALS  !  In  the  year  1832  they  are  civilized,  intelligent  men,  well 
fitted  for  becoming  proper  agents,  or  interpreters  and  missionaries  to 
open  an  intercourse  with  their  native  isles,  which  cannot  fail  of  result- 
ing in  immense  commercial  advantages  to  the  United  States,  and  also 
incalculable  civil  and  moral  blessings  to  a  portion  of  mankind  never 
before  known  or  heard  of  by  the  civilized  world.  They  have  becomo 
familiar  with  the  superior  arts  and  enjoyments  of  civilized  life,  and  are 
very  anxious  to  return  and  communicate  the  same  to  their  benighted 
countrymen.  One  of  them,  who  was  a  chief  in  his  native  country,  has  a 
great  taste  for  the  mechanic  arts,  particularly  such  as  require  the  use 
of  machinery  and  edge  tools.  He  visits,  of  his  own  accord,  the  differ- 
ent factories  and  workshops,  with  the  inquisitive  eye  of  a  philosopher, 
and  is  never  satisfied  until  the  use  and  principle  of  every  operation 
liave  been  explained  to  him. 

If  there  be  suflicient  commercial  enterprise  in  the  United  States  to 
fit  out  an  expedition  to  these  islands,  and  thus  enable  me  to  restore 
these  civilized  cannibals  to  their  own  islands,  the  stockholders  of  the 
concern  would  not  only  realize  incalculable  profits  by  the  first  voyage, 
but  might  monopolize  the  invaluable  trade  as  long  as  they  please ; 
because  /  alone  know  icJiere  these  islands  are  situated. 

If  these  two  natives  are  enabled  to  return,  they  will  also  be  prepared 
to  instruct  their  countrymen  in  the  art  of  agriculture,  of  which  they  are 
now  entirely  ignorant.  By  this  means  thousands  of  infants  would  be 
preserved,  which  are  now  doomed  to  perish,  lest  tlte  population  of  these 
islands  become  too  great  for  their  means  of  sustenance.  Was  their 
rich,  mellow,  luxuriant  soil  only  partially  cultivated,  it  would  produce 
sufficient  for  ten  times  the  population  which  now  occupies  it.  These 
two  natives,  whom  I  call  "  Sunday'^  and  "  Mo7iday'^  will  also  prepare 
the  minds  of  their  countrymen  to  receive  and  protect  missionaries ; 
they  will  report  how  kindly  and  tenderly  they  have  been  treated  here  ^ 
how  much  more  comfortably  we  live  than  they  can  without  some  of  the 
same  means  ;  and  how  pleasant  it  is  to  attend  the  worship  of  the  Great 
Spirit  in  a  Christian  temple,  where  his  praises  are  chanted  by  hundreds 
of  sweet  voices,  borne  to  heaven  on  the  breath  of  the  pealing  organ  ! 

Nofiemher  26tk. — On  Friday,  the  26th,  we  took  the  north-east  trade- 
"winds  from  east-by-north,  iu  latitude  6^  0'  N.,  long.  144°  55'  E. ;  and 


Dec]       SANTA  SINTO— DIRECTIONS  TO  SHIP-MASTERS.       407 

on  the  following  day  we  crossed  a  shoal  of  coral  about  four  miles  in 
circumference,  with  from  three  to  ten  fathoms  of  water  upon  it.  This 
shoal  is  situated  in  latitude  7°  31'  N.,  long.  144°  59'  E.  We  now 
made  the  best  of  our  way  to  the  Strait  of  St.  Barnardino,  and  were 
within  the  entrance  of  the  strait  on  the  9th  of  December. 

Decemher  lOth. — On  Friday,  the  10th  of  December,  we  touched  at 
Santa  Sinto,  where  we  obtained  a  supply  of  provisions,  of  which  we 
stood  very  much  in  need  ;  as  for  the  last  twenty  days  we  had  been  on 
an  allowance  of  one-third.  It  is  truly  astonishing,  that  from  the  time 
of  leaving  Manilla  up  to  the  present  date,  only  one  man  on  board  had 
been  ill,  out  of  a  crew  of  eighty-live  men,  confined  in  a  small  vessel, 
and  all  the  time  in  a  very  warm  climate.  I  attribute  this  extraordinary 
healthiness  almost  entirely  to  the  strict  attention  paid  to  cleanliness,- 
and  avoiding  unneces-sary  exposure,  on  board  the  Antarctic.  , 

I  would  earnestly  recommend  to  all  ship-masters,  on  a  long  voyage, 
to  keep  a  special  eye  to  this  subject.  The  crew  should  be  compelled 
to  attend  particularly  to  this  important  concern,  as  respects  their  per- 
sons, cooking  vessels,  wearing  apparel,  bedding,  &:c.  When  the  bilge- 
water  becomes  the  least  offensive,  a  part  of  the  crew  should  be  em- 
ployed in  pouring  pure  sea-water  into  the  forepart  of  the  vessel,  while 
others  are  pumping  it  out,  until  the  nuisance  is  totally  abated.  This 
simple  measure  will  completely  nullify  or  neutralize  a  very  prolific 
source  of  disease.  The  men  should  nei-er  be  permitted  to  sleep  in 
their  wet  clothes,  nor  on  deck,  in  very  warm  or  very  cold  climates  ;  as 
this  has  a  tendency  to  promote  the  scurvy,  when  oft'  soundings  ;  while 
on  soundings,  when  the  devrs  are  heavy,  it  engenders  fever.  Neither 
should  they  be  allowed  to  sleep  too  much  when  the  weather  is  hot ;. 
for  that  relaxes  and  enervates  the  whole  system,  and  renders  the  body 
liable  to  many  dangerous  and  often  fatal  diseases.  In  warm  climates 
they  should  change  their  clothes  twice  a  week. 

;  •  Ships  on  long  voyages  should  always  be  supplied  with  a  liberal 
quantity  of  dried  apples,  to  be  distributed  to  the  seamen  three  times  a 
week.  They  should  also  be  carefully  furnished  with  a  due  quantity 
of  vinegar,  which  should  be  given  to  the  men  with  their  food  three  times 
a  day  ;  besides  a  spoonful  each,  every  morning,  for  rinsing  their  mouths. 
Switchel,  or  molasses  and  water,  with  a  little  vinegar  in  it,  should  be 
served  out  to  them  once  or  tv;ice  a  day,  v/hile  at  sea.  Their  meat, 
before  cooking,  should  be  well  soaked  in  sea-water,  and  the  strictest 
attention  ought  to  be  paid  to  the  manner  of  its  being  served  up  after 
cooking.  The  health  of  a  ship's  company  depends  in  a  great  measure 
on  the  character  of  the  cook  ;  life  and  death  are  in  his  hands,  and  the 
best  of  them  require  strict  looking  al'ter.  If  personal  cleanliness  be 
essential  to  health,  how  much  more  so  must  be  the  cleanliness  of  our 
cookery  !  A  filthy,  careless,  ignorant  cook  is  more  dangerous  than  a 
pestilence.  This  subject,  I  regret  to  say,  is  too  much  neglected  by 
ship-masters,  some  of  whom  seem  to  think  that  seamen  may  be  fed 
like  so  many  swine ;  and  that  they  are  merely  fed  at  all  in  order  to 
cive  them  strensfth  to  work.  I  know  them  to  be  men ;  and  the  best 
of  men  wlien  properly  treated. 

One  word  more  respecting  vinegar.     The  water  which  we  drink  at 

Gg2 


468  RETURN  TO  MANILLA.  [1830. 

sea  is  always  more  or  less  impure.  This  is  readily  corrected  by  a 
little  vinegar,  which  also  tends  to  promote  that  salutary  perspiration- 
ivhich,  in  hot  weather,  prevents  putrid  fevers,  and  inflammations  of 
various  kinds.  I  would  also  recommend  that  every  vessel  be  supplied 
"with  a  quantity  of  shrub  for  the  use  of  the  seamen  after  hard  fatigue, 
instead  of  ardent  spirits.  It  will  have  a  much  better  efiect,  as  the 
vegetable  acid  it  contains  gives  it  a  superior  efficacy  against  putrefac- 
tion. These  two  highly  important  articles,  vinegar  and  shrub,  would 
be  found  to  be  great  preventives  against  the  scurvy,  on  board  of  vessels 
which  are  engaged  in  long  voyages. 
«  But  the  above  are  not  all,  nor  perhaps  the  most  important  benefits  re- 
sulting from  a  proper  use  of  vinegar  at  sea.  Every  part  of  the  ship, 
where  it  is  possible  for  foul  air  to  engender  or  to  lurk,  should  be 
washed  or  sprinkled  with  it  at  least  once  a  week.  Its  antiscorbutic 
and  disinfecting  qualities  are  not  so  generally  known  among  mariners 
as  they  ought  to  be.  By  its  influence  the  lungs  and  other  tender  parts 
of  the  human  vitals  become,  as  it  were,  sheathed,  or  defended  against 
the  volatile  particles  of  every  noxious  exhalation ;  so  that  it  is  either 
repelled  or  neutralized,  and  rendered  harmless, 

December  14M. — After  taking  on  board  the  necessary  supplies  at 
Santa  Sinto,  we  pursued  our  way  to  Manilla,  where  we  arrived  on 
Tuesday,  December  the  14th,  and  at  eleven,  A.  M.,  came  to  anchor 
in  Manilla  Roads,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  clay  ground.  Our  safe 
arrival  in  port  was  announced  by  three  exhilarating  cheers  from  our 
noble  crew  of  eighty-five  men ;  who,  I  am  proud  to  publish  to  the  world, 
during  the  whole  of  this  cruise,  from  Manilla  and  back  again,  a  period 
of  about  six  months,  uniformly  conducted  themselves  in  the  most  faith- 
ful, manly,  and  amiable  manner.  Not  a  solitary  individual  among 
them  had  rendered  himself  obnoxious  to  punishment,  or  even  reproof ; 
not  a  man  of  them  but,  in  the  way  of  duty,  would  have  followed  me 
into  the  very  jaws  of  death.  So  much  for  treating  seamen  like  men, 
instead  of  lording  it  over  them  as  if  they  were  slaves. 

December  \5th. — On  the  following  day  M^e  discharged  the  Antarctic, 
and  soon  after  sold  the  cargo  to  the  best  advantage,  and  settled  with 
our  faithful  crew.  Our  friends  received  us  in  the  most  cordial  and 
aftectionate  manner ;  and  my  wife  was  hailed  as  the  heroine  of  a  ro- 
mance in  real  life.  Her  own  feelings  and  sensations  through  all  the 
little  incidents  of  this  fourth  voyage  are  described  in  her  o\vn  Journal, 
which  will  soon  be  published,  and  to  that  I  shall  refer  the  reader. 
Those  friends  who  were  so  anxious  for  our  safety,  and  who,  the  reader 
will  recollect,  endeavoured  to  dissuade  us  from  this  eventful  cruise, 
now  flocked  around  us  with  the  most  animated  congratulations.  My 
two  captives,  Sunday  and  Monday,  excited  the  most  intense  interest 
among  citizens  of  all  classes ;  and  the  adventures  of  Leonard  Shaw 
were  the  common  topic  of  conversation.  In  short,  the  safe  return  of 
the  Antarctic  to  Manilla  was  hailed  as  a  triumph,  and  excited  as  much 
enthusiasm  as  did  the  return  of  the  Argo,  with  Jason  and  his  compan- 
ions, to  Thessaly  with  the  celebrated  golden  fleece. 


Jan.]  SINGAPORE.  459 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Disappointed  Hopes — Take  Freight  for  Cadiz — Touch  at  Singapore  to  licrhten 
the  Vessel — Description  of  the  Place — Climate,  Soil,  Health,  and  Beauty  of  the 

Country — An  Aerial  Excursion — Delightful  Prospects — Sail  from  Singapore 

The  treacherous  Malays— Precautions  necessary  to  be  observed — Double  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope — Saldanha  Bay — Necessary  Repairs — Island  of  St.  Helena 
— Tomb  of  Bonaparte — History  and  Description  of  the  Island — The  Azores 

— Cadiz— Bordeaux — Homeward  Bound — Safe   Arrival — Melancholy  News 

The  Conclusion. 

The  importance  of  my  new  discoveries  was  universally  acknowledged 
at  Manilla  ;  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  envy  and  perfidy  of  some  of 
my  own  countrymen,  I  should  have  succeeded  in  raising  funds  to  fit 
out  the  Antarctic  in  such  a  manner  as  immediately  to  realize  a  portioa 
of  the  immense  profits  which  still  await  a  well-conducted  expedition 
to  those  islands.  The  sanctity  of  the  tomb,  combined  with  a  delicacy 
for  the  feelings  of  the  living,  protects  the  memory  of  one  whose  name 
would  otherwise,  in  this  very  narrative,  have  been  stamped  with  irre- 
deemable infamy.  His  perfidious  machinations  so  far  succeeded  as 
to  compel  me  to  abandon  the  idea  of  returning  to  the  islands  of  Sunday- 
and  Monday  until  I  had  first  visited  the  United  States.  I  therefore 
obtained  a  freight  for  Cadiz,  on  my  way  home,  and  the  Antarctic  was 
ready  for  sea  on  the  13th  of  January,  1831.  The  Asiatic  cholera 
was  at  this  time  in  Manilla. 

Jan.  2\st. — After  taking  leave  of  all  our  friends  and  acquaint- 
ance at  Manilla,  we  went  on  board,  on  Thursday,  the  13th;  and  at 
6,  P.  M.,  got  under  way ;  homeward-bound,  via  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.  At  half-past  eight,  P.  M.,  we  passed  the  Corregidor,  with  a 
strong  north-east  monsoon  ;  before  we  had  reached  the  coast  of  Cochin 
China,  however,  we  found  that  the  Antarctic  was  overloaded,  and  there- 
fore made  the  best  of  our  way  to  Singapore,  where  we  arrived  on 
Friday,  the  21st  of  January,  and  landed  such  a  portion  of  the  cargo  as 
lightened  the  vessel  sufficiently  to  be  considered  safe. 

The  town  of  Singapore  is  a  recent  British  settlement,  on  an  island 
of  the  same  name,  lying  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  Strait  of 
Malacca,  in  latitude  1°  17' 22"  north,  long.  103°  51'  45"  east.  Singa- 
pore is  separated  from  the  mainland  forming  the  peninsula  of  Ma- 
lacca, or  Malaya,  on  the  north,  by  a  narrow  strait  of  the  same  name  ;  so 
narrow,  indeed,  that  in  some  places  it  is  scarcely  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
across,  and  yet,  in  the  early  period  of  European  navigation,'  this  little 
channel  was  the  thoroughfare  between  India  and  China.*     At  present, 

*  Native  Foreign  Trade  of  China.— "  The  prinripal  part  of  the  junk  trade  ia  carried  on  by  the  four 
contiguous  provinces  of  Canton,  Fokien,  Clieki.mg,  and  Kiannan. 

"No  foreign  trade  is  |>ermiit<xi  with  the  inland  of  Formosa  ;  and  I  have  no  means  of  describing 
the  extent  of  the  traltic  which  may  be  condurtfd  between  rhma,  Corea,  and  the  Leechew  Islands. 
The  following  are  the  countries  with  which  China  carri**s  on  a  trade  in  juuks ;  \ii.  Japan,  the  Phil^ 


470  SIXCwAPORE.  [1831. 

however,  the  grand  route  between  the  eastern  and  western  portions  of 
maritime  Asia  is  along  the  south  side  of  Singapore,  and  so  near  to  it 
that  ships  in  passing  and  repassing  approach  close  to  the  roads.     The 

pines,  the  Sooloo  Isliinds.  Celebes,  tlwr  Moluccas,  Borneo,  Java,  Sumatra,  Singapore,  Rhio,  the 
east  coast  of  the  Malavan  peninsula,  Siani,  Cochin  (Miina,  Cambodia,  and  Tonquin.  The  ports  of 
China  at  which  this  trade  is  conducted  are  Canton,  Tchao-tcheou,  Nomliong,  Hocitcheon,  Sulieng, 
Kongmoon,  Changlim,  and  Hainan,  in  the  province  of  Canton  ;  Amoyand  Chincliew,  in  the  province 
of  Fokien  ;  Ningpo  and  Siang-haig,  in  tiie  province  ofChekians  ;  and  i^outcheon,  in  the  province  of 
Kiannan.  Tlic  following  may  be  looked  upon  as  an  approximation  to  the  number  of  junks  carrj  ing 
on  trade  with  the  different  places  already  ei»unierated,  viz. 

Junk.. 

Japan,  10  junks,  two  voyages, 20 

Pinlippinc  Islauds, 13 

Soo'oo  Islands, 4 

IJorneo  13,  Celebes  2, 15 

Java,    .        .  ^ 

Sumatra, 10 

Singapore  8.  Rhio  1 9 

East  Coast  of  Malay  Peninsula, § 

Siam,  89 

Cochin  China, .    20 

Cambodia,  'on 

Tonquin, *"  _ 

*      '  —  Total  222. 

"  This  statement  does  not  include  a  great  number  of  small  junks  belonging  to  the  island  of  Hainan, 
which  carry  on  trade  with  Tonquin,  Cochin  China,  Cambodia,  Siam,  and  Singapore.  Those  for 
Siam  amount  yearly  to  about  50,  and  for  the  Cochin  Chinese  dominions  to  about  43 ;  these  alone 
■would  bring  the  total  number  of  vessels  carrjing  on  a  direct  trade  between  China  and  foreign  coun- 
tries to  307r  The  trade  with  Japan  is  confined  to  the  port  of  Ningpo,  in  Chekiang,  and  expressly 
limited  to  10  vessels  ;  but  as  the  distance  from  Nangasaki  is  a  voyage  of  no  more  than  four  days,  it 
is  performed  twice  a  year. 

"With  the  exception  of  this  branch  of  trade,' the  foreign  intercourse  of  the  two  provinces  Clie- 
tiang  and  Kiannan,  which  are  famous  for  the  production  of  raw  silk,  teas,  and  nankeens,  is  confined 
to  the  Philippine  Islands,  Tonquin,  Cochin  China,  Cambodia,  and  Siam  ;  and  none  of  this  class  of 
vessels,  that  I  am  aware  of,  have  ever  found  their  way  to  the  western  parts  of  the  Indian  archipelago. 
•The  number  of  these  trading  with  Siam  is  24,  all  of  considerable  size ;  those  trading  with  the  Cochin 
Chinese  dominions  16,  also  of  considerable  size ;  and  those  trading  with  the  Philippines  5 ;  making 
in  all  45,  of  which  the  average  burden  does  not  fall  short  of  17,000  tons.  I  am  the  more  particular 
in  describing  this  branch  of  the  Chinese  commerce,  as  we  do  not  ourselves  at  present  partake  of  it, 
and  as  we  possess  no  direct  means  of  obtaining  information  in  regard  to  it.  All  the  junks  carrying 
on  this  trade  with  Siam  are  owned  in  the  latter  country,  and  not  in  China  ;  and  I  am  not  sure  how 
far  it  may  not  also  be  so  in  the  other  cases.  1  do  not  doubt  but  that  a  similar  commerce  will,  in  the 
event  of  a  free  trade,  extend  to  Singapore ;  and  that  through  tliis  channel  may  eventually  be  obtained 
the  green  teas  of  Kiannan,  and  the  raw  silks  of  Chekiang. 

"  Besides  the  junks  now  described  there  is  another  numerous  class,  which  may  be  denominated  the 
colonial  shipping  of  the  Chinese.  Wherever  the  Chinese  arc  settled  in  any  numbers,  junks  of  this 
description  are  to  be  found;  such  as  in  Java,  Sumatra,  the  Straits  of  Malacca,  &(•.. ;  but  the  largest 
commerce  of  this  description  is  conducted  from  the  Cochin  Chinese  dominions,  but  especially  from 
Siam,  where  the  number  was  estimated  to  m.e  at  200.  Several  junks  of  this  description  from 
.the  latter  country  come  annually  to  Singapore,  of  which  the  burden  is  not  less  than  from  300  to 
400  tons. 

"  The  junks  which  trade  between  China  and  the  adjacent  countries  are  some  of  them  owned  and 
huilt  in  China ;  but  a  considerable  number  also  in  the  latter  countries,  particularly  in  Siam  and 
Cochin  China.  Of  those  carrying  on  the  Siamese  trade,  indeed,  no  less  than  81  out  of  the  89,  of  con- 
siderable size,  were  represented  to  me  as  being  built  and  owned  in  Siam.  The  small  junks,  how- 
ever, can-ying  on  the  trade  of  Hainan,  are  all  built  and  owned  in  China. 

"The  junks,  whether  colonial  or  trading  direct  with  China,  vary  in  burden  from  2,000  piculs  to 
15,000,  or  carr)'  dead  weight  from  120  to  900  tons.  Of  those  of  the  last  size  I  have  only  seen  three 
HI  four,  and  these  were  at  Siam,  and  the  same  which  were  commonly  employed  in  carrying  amission 
and  tribute  yearly  from  Siam  to  Canton.  Of  the  whole  of  the  large  class  of  junks,  I  should  think 
the  average  burden  will  not  be  overrated  at  300  tons  each,  which  would  make  the  total  tonnage  em- 
ployed in  the  native  foreign  trade  of  China  between  60,(i00  and  70,000  tons,  exclusive  of  the  small 
junks  of  Hainan,  which,  estimated  at  150  tons  each,  would  make  in  all  about  S0,000  tons. 

"The  junks  built  in  China  are  usually  constructed  of  tir  and  other  inferior  woods.  When  they 
arrive  in  Cambodia,  Siam,  and  the  Malayan  islands,  they  commonly  furni-sh  themselves  with  masti?, 
rudders,  and  wooden  eflichors  of  the  .superior  timber  of  these  countries.  The  junks  built  in  Siam  are 
a  superior  class  of  ves.sels,  the  planks  and  upper  works  bs'ing  invariably  leak.  The  cost  of  ship- 
|)uildingia  highest  at  the  port  of  Arnoy  in  Fokien,  and  lowest  in  Siam.  At  these  places,  and  at 
Changlim  in  Canton,  the  cost  of  a  junk  of  8,000  piculs,  or  47(3  tons  burden,  was  staled  to  me  by 
-several  commanders  of  junks  to  be  as  follows  : — 

At  Siam, 7^400  dollars. 

.Changlim, 16,0c,0 

Arnoy, 21,000 

A  junk  ofthe  size  just  named  has  commonly  a  crew  of  90  haiids,  consistingof  the  following  oflicera, 
besides  the  crew :  a  commandi'r.  a  pilot,  an  accountant,  a  captain  of  the  helm,  a  captain  of  the 
anchor,  and  a  captai.i  of  the  hold.    The  coaimaader  receives  no  pay,  but  has  the  advantage  of  the 


Jan.] 


0 

DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  PLACE.  471 


island  is  of  an  elliptical  form,  much  indented  by  bays  and  harbours,  and 
presenting-  many  projecting  points,  promontories,  capes,  &;c.  Its  great- 
est length  is  about  twenty-seven  miles,  and  its  greatest  breadth  about 
fifteen,  the  whole  comprising  an  area  of  about  two  hundred  and  seventy 
square  miles.  The  town  is  built  on  a  river,  at  the  south  side  of  the 
island. 

This  town  was  first  foimded  in  the  year  1818;  and  seven  years 

cabin  accommo^lation  for  passengers,  reckoned  on  thr  voyajre  between  Canton  and  Singapore  worth 
J50  Spanish  dollars.  He  is  also  ths  agent  of  the  owners,  and  receives  a  commission,  commonly 
of  10  per  cent,  on  Wie  prnjits  of  such  share  of  the  adventure,  generally  a  considerable  one,  in  whic^ 
they  are  concerned.  The  pilot  receives  for  the  voyage  200  dollars  of  wages,  and  50  piculs  of  freight 
out  and  home.  The  helmsman  has  15  picul-s  of  freight,  and  no  wages.  The  captains  of  the  anchor 
and  the  hold  have  9  piculs  of  freight  each  ;  and  the  seamen  7  picula  each.  None  of  these  have  any 
wages.  The  officers  and  seamen  of  the  colonial  junks  are  difTerently  rewarded.  In  a  Siamese  junk, 
for  example,  trading  between  the  Siamese  capital  and  Singapore,  of  6,000  piculs  burden,  the  com- 
mander and  pilot  had  each  100  dollars  for  the  voyage,  with  12  piculs  of  freight  apiece.  The  ac- 
countant and  helmsman  had  half  of  this  allov.ance,  and  each  seaman  had  13  dollars,  with  5  picul* 
of  freight. 

"In  construction  and  outfit,  Chinese  junks  are  clumsy  and  awkward  in  the  extreme.  The 
Chinese  are  quite  unacquainted  with  navigation,  saving  the  knowled^^e  of  the  compass:  notwiih- 
Btanding  this,  as  their  pilots  are  expert,  their  voyages  short,  and  as  they  hardly  ever  sail  except  at 
the  height  of  the  monsoons,  when  a  fair  and  steady  seven  or  eight  knots'breeze  carries  them 
directly  from  port  to  port,  the  sea  risk  is  very  small.  During  thirteen  years'  acquaintance  with  this 
branch  of  trade,  I  can  recollect  hearing  of  but  four  slupwrecks;  and  in  all  these  instances  the  crews 
were  saved. 

"The  construction  and  rigging  of  a  Chinese  jiink  may  be  looked  npon  as  her  proper  registry*,  and 
they  are  a  very  effectual  one ;  for  the  least  deviation  from  them  would  subject  her  at  once  to  foreign 
charges  and  foreign  duties,  and  to  all  kinds  of  suspicion.  The  colonial  junks,  which  are  of  a  more 
commodious  form  and  outfit,  if  visiting  China,  are  subjected  to  the  same  duties  as  foreign  vessels. 
Junks  built  in  Siam,  or  any  other  adjacent  country,  if  constructed  and  fitted  out  after  the  customary 
model,  are  admitted  to  trade  to  China  upon  the  same  terms  as  those  built  and  owned  in  the  country. 
If  any  part  of  the  crew  consist  of  Siamese,  Cochin  Chinese,  or  other  foreigners,  the  latter  are  ad 
mitted  only  at  the  port  of  Canton  ;  and  if  found  in  any  other  part  of  China,  would  be  seized  and  takent 
up  by  the  police  exactly  in  the  same  manner  as  if  they  were  Europeans.  The  native  trade  of  China 
conducted  with  foreign  countries  is  not  a  clandestine  commerce,  unacknowledged  by  the  Chinese 
laws,  but  has  in  every  case  at  least  the  express  sanction  of  the  viceroy  or  governor  of  the  province, 
Tvho,  on  petition,  decides  the  number  of  junks  that  shall  be  allowed  to  engage  in  it ;  and  even  enu- 
merates the  articles  which  it  shall  be  legal  to  export  and  import.  At  every  port,  also,  where  such  a 
foreign  trade  is  sanctioned,  there  is  a  hong  or  body  of  security  merchants  as  at  Canton  ;  a  fact  whicU 
shows  clearly  enough  that  this  institution  is  parcel  of  the  laws  or  customs  of  China,  and  not  a  peculiar 
restraint  imposed  upon  the  intercourse  with  Europeans. 

"  The  Chinese  junks,  properly  constructed,  pay  no  measurement  duty,  and  no  kumsha  or  present ; 
duties,  however,  are  paid  upon  goods  exported  and  imported,  which  seem  to  differ  at  the  different 
provinces.  They  are  highest  at  Amoy,  and  lowest  in  the  island  of  Hainan.  The  Chinese  traders 
of  Siam  informed  me  that  they  carried  on  the  fairest  and  easiest  trade,  subject  to  the  fewest  restric- 
tions, in  the  ports  of  Ningpo  and  Siang-hai,  in  Chekiang,  and  Soutcheon  in  Kiannan.  Great  dex- 
terity seems  everywhere  to  be  exercised  by  the  Chinese  in  evading  the  duties.  One  practice  which 
is  very  often  followed  will  afford  a  good  example  of  this.  The  coasting  trade  of  China  is  nearly  free 
from  all  duties  and  other  imposts.  The  merchant  takes  advantage  of  this  ;  and  intending  in  reality 
to  proceed  to  Siam  or  Cochin  China,  for  example,  clears  a  junk  out  lor  the  island  of  Hainan,  and  thus 
avoids  the  payment  of  duties.  When  she  returns  she  will  lie  four  or  five  days  off  and  on  at  the 
mouth  of  the  port,  until  a  regular  bargain  be  made  with  thecustom-hou.se  officers  for  the  reduction 
of  duties.  The  threat  held  out  in  such  ca.'=eg  is  to  proceed  to  another  port,  and  thus  deprive  the 
public  officers  of  their  customary  perquisites.  I  was  assured  of  the  frequency  of  this  practice  by 
Chinese  merchants  of  Cochin  China,  as  well  as  by  several  commanders  of  junks  at  Singapore.  Fronx 
the  last-named  persons  I  had  another  fact  of  some  consequence,  as  lonnecied  with  the  Chinese  trade, 
viz.  that  a  good  many  of  the  junks,  carrying  on  trade  with  foreigu  ports  to  the  westward  of  China, 
often  proceeded  on  voyages  to  the  northward  in  the  same  season.  In  this  manner  they  stated  that 
about  20  considerable  junks,  besides  a  great  many  small  ones,  proceeded  annually  from  Canton  to 
Souchong,  one  of  the  capitals  of  Kiannan,  and  in  wealth  and  commerce  the  rival  of  Canton,  where 
thoy  sold  about  200  chests  of  opium  at  .in  advance  of  50  per  cent,  beyond  the  Canton  prices.  Another 
place  where  the  Canton  junks,  to  ilie  number  of  five  or  six,  repair  annually,  is  Chinchew,  in  the 
j^rovince  of  Shanton,  within  the  Gulf  of  Pechely,  or  Yellow  Sea,  and  as  far  north  as  the  37ih  degree 
of  latitude." 

A  Chinese  ship  or  jnnk  is  seldom  the  property  of  one  individual.  Sometimes  40,  50,  or  even  100 
diflVrent  merchants  purcha.se  a  vessel,  and  divide  her  into  as  many  different  compartments  as  there 
are  partners  ;  so  that  eich  knows  his  own  particular  part  in  the  ship,  which  he  is  at  liberty  to  fit  up 
and  secure  as  he  pleases.  The  bulkheads  by  which  these  divisions  are  formed  consist  of  stout 
plank?,  90  well  calked  as  to  be  completely  water-tight.  A  ship  thus  form»d  may  strike  on  a  rock, 
and  yet  sustain  no  serious  injury  :  a  leak  springing  in  one  division  of  the  hold  will  not  be  attended 
^vith  any  d;^m^ge  to  articles  placed  in  another;  and  from  her  firmness,  stee  is  qualified  to  resist  s 
more  than  ordinary  shock.  A  considerable  loss  of  stowage  is,  of  course,  sustained  ;  but  the  Chinese 
exj>ortJ»  generally  contain  a  con.si>'t;rab!e  value  in  small  bulk.  It  is  only  the  very  largest  class  of 
junks  that  have  so  many  owners ;  but  even  in  the  smallest  class  the  number  is  very  considerable. 


^^^^1 


472  SINGAPORE.  [1831. 

afterward,  the  settlement  was  conlirmcd  to  the  British  government,  by 
a  convention  with  tlie  King  of  the  Netherlands,  and  a  treaty  with  the 
Malay  princes  of  Johorr,  to  whom  it  belonged.  The  original  inhab- 
itants are  principally  Chinese,  Malays,  8umatraus,  Bugis,  Javanese, 
and  the  natives  of  Coromandel,  Malabar,  Bengal,  &lc.  The  Europeans 
are  not  yet  numerous,  probably  not  more  than  three  thousand.  When 
the  first  census  of  the  whole  mixed  population  was  taken,  in  January, 
1824,  it  did  not  amount' to  eleven  thousand;  but  in  1830,  six  years 
afterward,  it  had  increased  to  nearly  seventeen  thousand  ;  of  whom 
about  one-third  were  females.  It  now  probably  amounts  to  seventy 
thousand. 

For  the  short  period  it  has  been  in  existence,  Singapore  is,  without 
an  exception,  the  most  thriving  colony  which  the  British  have  in  the 
East  Indies  ;  being  admirably  situated  for  all  the  purposes  of  trade ; 
and  is,  in  fact,  a  centre  dep6t  for  the  commerce  of  the  Chinese  and 
Javanese  seas.  The  most  valuable  productions  are  brought  to  this 
place,  from  the  Philippines,  from  Borneo,  Sooloo,  Java,  Sumbawa, 
Flores,  Celebes,  Gillolo,  Cerani,  Arroe,  the  west  part  of  Papua,  and 
nearly  all  the  small  islands  in  the  vicinity  of  those  already  mentioned. 

Among  the  valuable  articles  brought  to  this  market  are  tortoise- 
shells,  pearls,  and  pearl-shell,  ambergris,  gold-dust,  edible  birds'  nests, 
birds  of  paradise,  minerals,  biclie-de-mer,  shells,  pepper,  coffee,  sugar, 
hemp,  indigo,  many  valuable  gums  and  drugs,  precious  woods,  <fcc. ; 
11  of  M'hich  are  readily  purchased  by  the  British  merchants  who  have 
stablishments  at  this  place.  A  lucrative  trade  is  also  carried  on  be- 
tween Singapore  and  Cochin  China,  Camboja,  Siam,  Malaya,  and 
Sumatra.  AVithin  the  last  ten  years,  this  place  has  increased  and 
flourished  beyond  all  calculation.  An  Indian  village  of  forty  or  fifty 
bamboo  .huts  has  given  place  to  a  splendid  well-built  little  city. 

The  harbour  of  Singapore  is  commodious,  safe,  and  easy  of  ac- 
cess;  and  no  navigator  who  has  the  latest  edition  of  Captain  Hors- 
burgh's  East  India  Directory  can  make  any  mistake  in  entering  it. 
This  is  a  book  of  inestimable  value  to  every  ship-master  who  intends 
to  visit  any  port  in  the  East  Indies  ;  and  no  one  should  be  without  it. 
Its  accuracy  may  be  depended  upon.  The  harbour  and  town  of  Sin- 
gapore are  defended  by  a  strong  fort,  well  garrisoned,  and  standing  in  a 
beautiful  situation. 

The  surface  of  this  island  is  beautifully  diversified  with  valleys,  plains, 
and  irregular  hills.  Its  southern  part  is  the  most  elevated,  on  one  emi- 
nence of  which  is  a  signal-hous€,  for  the  announcement  of  vessels  that  are 
coming  through  any  of  the  neighboimng  straits.  It  is  well  timbered, 
and  the  trees  are  generally  of  a  very  large  size.  On  the  south  side, 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  town,  is  a  level,  fertile,  well  cultivated  plain,  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  miles  in  length,  and  from  three  to  four  miles  in  breadth. 
This  whole  area  is  laid  out  in  gardens  and  plantations  ;  intersected  in 
all  directions  with  excellent  carriage-roads,  the  sides  of  which  are 
bordered  with  shrubs  of  various  kinds,  and  trees  of  perpetual  verdure. 
Here  the  English  merchants  have  their  country  seats,  to  which  they 
retire  after  business  hours,  to  enjoy  the  pure  air  and  the  truly  para- 


Jan.]  BEAUTY  OF  THE  SCENERY.  475 

disiacal  scenery  which  surrounds  them.  They  may  talk  of  Italian  skies, 
and  Sicilian  shrubbery.  No  island  or  coast  in  or  around  the  Medi- 
terranean Sea  can  rival  Singapore  in  salubrity  ot'  climate,  fertility 
of  soil,  or  beauty  of  scenery.  Its  air  is  deliciously  balmy — its 
shrubbery  luxuriant — health  and  beauty  here  revel  together — nature  is 
dressed  in  evex-changing  but  never-fading  charms,  and  her  sunny 
smiles  are  ever  reflected  from  the  human  countenance. 

From  the  dawn  of  day  until  sometime  after  sunrise,  the  most  spark- 
ling fable  of  Turkey,  Persia,  or  all  the  East  is  fully  realized  in  Singa- 
pore. Every  leaf,  and  flov/er,  and  spray,  and  blade  of  grass,  is 
gemmed  with  dewdrops  of  extraordinary  clearness  and  purity  ;  which 
have  imbibed  so  much  of  the  vegetable  fragrance,  that  when  they 
begin  to  exhale  in  the  increasing  warmth  of  the  solar  ray,  the  whole 
atmosphere  is  filled  with  the  most  delightful  perfumes,  and  every 
passing  zephyr  scatters  grateful  odours  from  its  wings.  This  is  the 
hour  for  healthful  recreation.  The  roads  are  now  crowded  with 
carriages  and  equestrians  of  both  sexes,  while  the  fields  and  meadows, 
and  lawns,  and  hills,  and  valleys  are  sprinkled  with  pedestrians, 
some  in  groups,  others  in  pairs,  and  many  in  contemplative  solitude. 
AVhen  the  sun  has  attained  a  somewhat  higher  altitude,  and  the  strag- 
glers begin  to  feel  the  potency  of  his  beams,  they  all  repair  to  their 
dwellings,  w^ith  a  keenly  sharpened  appetite  for  the  luxurious  break- 
fast that  awaits  them. 

The  tow^n  of  Singapore  is  about  one  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  and 
one  in  breadth.  The  streets  are  regular,  and  are  built  after  the  English 
style,  with  beautiful  side-walks.  The  houses  are  principally  built  of 
freestone ;  they  are  generally  two  stories  high,  finished  with  taste  and 
neatness,  and  all  painted  white,  which  gives  the  Avhole  a  very  fine  and 
imposing  appearance  from  the  offing.  There  are  a  few  houses,  how- 
ever, which  detract  much  from  the  symmetry  and  beauty  of  the  tout 
ensemble.  I  allude  to  those  which  belong  to  the  Chinese,  Malays, 
and  Hindoos  ;  merchants  who  adhere  to  the  custom  of  their  respective 
countries,  or  follow  their  own  taste,  whim,  or  caprice,  in  the  fashion 
of  their  dwellings. 

The  Chinese  are  here,  as  they  are  at  Manilla,  the  most  industrious 
class  of  the  whole  population ;  and  as  they  meet  with  liberal  encour- 
agement from  the  British  merchants,  they  will  doubtless  contribute 
greatly  to  the  improvement  of  this  infant  but  flourishing  settlement. 
In  fact,  I  have  not  the  least  doubt  but  in  less  than  half  a  century 
Singapore,  as  a  commercial  city,  will  have  no  competitor  east  of  Java, 
leaving  the  Bay  of  Bengal  out  of  the  question.  There  are  two  good 
markets  here,  which  are  open  every  day,  at  all  hours,  and  are  well 
supplied  with  vegetables,  fruits,  grain,  fish,  pork,  and  green  turtle ; 
the  latter  is  said  to  be  the  cheapest  animal  food  that  can  be  procured 
at  this  place. 

There  are  no  export  or  import  duties  levied  here ;  no  tax,  dues,  or 
fees,  for  lighthouse,  harbour,  or  anchorage.  A  register  is  kept,  how- 
ever, of  all  imports  and  exports.  Ship-masters  are  required  to  make 
reports  to  the  master-intendant,  and  deliver  their  invoices  to  the  super- 
intendent of  imports  and  exports.     There   is  a  weekly  newspaper 


474 


SINGAPORE. 


[1831. 


published  here,  called  the  Singapore  Chronicle,  which  contains  a 
price  current,  an  account  of  arrivals  and  departures  of  sliipping,  and 
an  oiricial  detail  of  all  the  exports  and  imports  of  the  preceding 
week.  The  language  of  commercial  intercourse,  whore  any  of  the 
natives  of  the  East  are  concerned,  is  universally  Malay.  This  is  a 
simple  dialect,  easily  acquired  whh  sufiicient  accuracy  for  the  trans- 
action of  the  ordinary  business.  All  judicial  proceedings  are  done 
in  English. 

The  island  of  Singapore  is  abundantly  supplied  with  all  kinds  of 
provisions,  vegetables,  and  fruits,  all  of  which  may  be  purchased  at  a 
very  low  rate.  Wood  and  water  are  easily  obtained  ;  and  fish  may  be 
eauglit  all  around  the  island  in  any  quantities,  of  great  variety,  and 
excellent  quality.  All  these  advantages,  with  many  others  which  do 
not  iminediatelV  occur  to  my  mind,  render  this  place,  what  it  has 
often  been  called,  the  paradise  of  India — the  home  of  plenty,  and  the 
abode  of  health.* 


*  Fertile  Information  of  the  commercial  reader,  I  think  proper  to  insert  in  this  place  the  following: 
table,  showin"  the  value  of  the  various  productions  of  the  Australasian  islands,  and  soutbeni  and 
eastern  coaster  the  continent,  at  Sinsapore,  in  the  year  1831.  These  prices  do  not  vary  much 
from  those  of  Mai.'illa,  Java,  or  China. ^  The  reader  will  bear  ia  mind  that  100  catties  are  equal  to 
one  picul,  being  133^!bs.  avoirdupois. 


EA-STERN  ARTICLES.  From 

Bees'-wax,  per  picul $35 

Biche-de-mer  (tripang),first  sort,  per 

,     picul 45 

»'       inferior,  per  picul 20 

Isle  of  France,  per  picul 10 

Renjamin,  per  picul 10 

Betel-nut,        "        

Birds'-nests,  white,  per  catty 40 

black,  per  picul 25 

Camphor,  Baras.  per  catty 12 

China,  per  picul 27 

Canvass,  Bengal,  per  bolt 5 

Cassia  lignea,  per  picul 10 


S 

65 
30 
27 

4 


Coffee,  Java, 

Malay, 
Copper,  Japan, 

Peruvian, 
Cordage,  coir, 

Dammer,  raw,       "        ,  ^ 

Dholl,  per  bag 2J 

Dragons'  blood,  first  sort,  per  picul  — 

inferior,  per  picul 5 

Ebony,  Isle  of  France,  per  picul...  3 

of  other  parts,               "         ...  1 

Elephants'  teeth,  first  sort,  "        ...  1 15 

second  sort,  per  picul 90 

third  sort,          "        70 

Gambler,  Rhio,  and  Singapore,  per 

picul H 

Siak,  per  picul 6" 

Gamboge,      "        50 

Ghee,  cow,    "        25 

buffalo,  "        16 

Grain,  rice,  white,  per  coyan 55 


50 
38 

U 

2 

2.V 


cargo,  first  sort 

cargo,  inferior     "    

Bengal,  per  bag 

wheat 

gram 

Gold-dust,  of  Pahaag  and  Siae,  per 

bungkal 30 

of  other  parts,  per  bungkal. ...    25 

Gunnies,  per  100 8 

Mother-of-pearl  shells,  per  picul...     19 
Nankeens,  long  junk,  per  100 45 


To 
$40 

50 
25 
25 
15 


125 
30 
29 

6 
12 

6i 

7" 
33 
28 

5 

1 

3 

30 

3i 

2" 

120 

100 

75 

li 
6.V 

75 

30 

18 

60 

55 

40 
1* 
2* 
3' 

31 
29 
11 
20 
55 


From 

■  $- 
.       4 


5 


EASTERN   ARTICLES. 

Nankeens,  short,  per  corge. .. . 

Oil,  cocoanut,  per  picul 

Opium,  Patna,  per  chest 

Benares,       "        

Malwa,         "        

Pepper,  black,  per  picul 

white,  "        

long,  "        

Piece  goods,  Bengal,  sunnahs,  per 

corge 36 

Mahmoodies,  per  corge 30 

Gurrahs,  per  corge 22 

Baftahs,         "        22 

chintz  of  12  cubits,  per  corge    15 
chintz  of  10  cubits,        " 
Madras,  rnoorees,  white,  " 
blue,     " 
salempires,  blue,  per  corge. . 

brown,     " 
handkerchiefs,  per  corge  .... 
kolamhories,  "        .... 

kambayas,  "        .... 

bugis  sarungs,        "        .... 
Bali  cloths,  "        .... 

Batick  hdkfs.  " 

Ratans,  per  picul 14: 

Sago,  pearl,  in  cases,  per  picul....      2| 

Salt,  Siam,  per  coyan 22 

Saltpetre,  per  picul 7 

Sapan  wood,  Manilla,  per  picul ....        4 

Siam,  per  picul 2 

Silk,  raw,  China,  junk,  72  cts 200 

Canton,  No.  2,  100  cts 300 

No.  3,95  eta 285 

Spices,  nutmegs,  per  picul 

cloves,  per  picul 30 

mace,        "        40 

Spirits,  arrack,  per  gallon 30 

Stick  lac,  per  picul 13 

Segars,  Manilla,  per  1000 6 

Sugar,  Java,  per  picul , .      5| 

Siam,  first  sort,  per  picul 6^ 

Manilla,  per  picul 5^ 

Sugar-candv,  per  picul 12 

Tin,  Banca,"    "    15 


10 
22 
30 
30 
28 
30 
20 
12 
18 
5 
14 


To : 

$- 

4* 
1000 
1000  , 

5k 

8 
7  , 

40 
32 
26 
24 

I'k 
14 
25 
35 
40 
32 
100 
45 
13 
40 

7  ■ 
24 

2 

U 

24" 

8 

2 

2i 

250 

325 

290 

30 

49 

40  ct. 

15 

7' 

7 

t 

a 

13 
16 


Jan.] 


AERIAL  EXCURSION. 


475 


January  23(7. — On  Sunday,  the  23d,  I  accompanied  a  small  party 
of  gentlemen,  one  of  whom  was  Doctor  Almador,  to  the  most  elevated 
part  of  the  island,  about  six  miles  to  the  west  of  the  town,  where 
we  went  for  the  purpose  of  breathing  the  cool  air,  and  gazing  on  pros- 
pects of  unrivalled  beauty  and  grandeur.  The  cxcur.sion  was  thjought 
to  be  of  too  laborious  a  nature  for  the  participation  of  the  more  fragile 
sex ;  for  though  poets  have  made  angels  of  them  all,  they  forgot  to 
add  one  very  important  appendage,  viz.  the  wings,  without  which 
ladies  could  hardly  attain  the  aerial  summit  to  which  we  were  bound. 
But  my  wife  was  a  heroine,  and  with  her  friend  Miss  Almador,  insisted 
on  accompanying  us. 

The  road,  or  rather  pathway,  to  this  eminence  is  quite  narrow, 
beino;  not  more  than  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  wudth,  and  must  have  been 
cut  with  almost  incredible  labour,  through  a  forest  of  gigantic  trees, 
the  umbrageous  foliage  of  which,  uniting  above,  screens  it  from  the 
fervid  rays  of  a  tropical  sun,  and  veils  it  in  a  cool,  pensive,  contem- 
plative gloom.  The  birds  carolled  sweetly  in  the  branches  above  our 
heads.     We  were   well   mounted;    and  though  some  parts  of  this 


EASTERN   ARTICLES,  From 

Tin,  Straits,  per  picul $14i 

Tobacco,  Java,  40  baskets 200 

China,  per  picul 19i 

Tortoise-shell,  "       1000 

Turmeric,         "       2;i 

WESTERN  ARTICLES. 

Ale,  Hodgson,  per  hogshead 40 

Anchors  and  grapnels,  per  pical.. .  11 

Bottles,  English,  per  100 4 

Books,  &c — 

Canvass,  i>er  bolt 10 

Copper  nails  and  sheathing,  perpicul  40 

Cordage,  per  picul 12 

Cotton,          '•        11 

Cotton  twist,  Xo.  16  to  36,  per  picul  50 

No.  38  to  70,  per  picul 80 

No.  40  to  80,        "        85 

Earthenware 

Flints,  per  picul Ij 

Glassware 

Gunpowder,  canister,  per  lOO&s. . .  30 

Hardware,  assorted 

Iron,  Swedish,  perpicul 5i 

English,         "        3i 

nails,             "        8 

Lead,  pig,            "       5i 

sheet,             "        6 

Oilman's  stores,    "        — 

Patent  shot,  per  bag 3 

Paints,  black — 

green — 

white  lead — 

Provisions,  beef,  per  tierce 33 

pork,  per  barrel 28 

biscuit,  per  picul 6i 

flour.          "       .= 8 

Piece  goods,  ATadapolams,  25  yds.  by 

32  in.,  per  piece 2.1 


To 

$15 

250 

22 

1600 

3 


45 
14 


12 
42 
14 
13 
55 


2 

40 

6 

3A 

10' 

6 

I 


35 
30 

7 
9 

3i 


WESTERN   ARTICLES.  FrOm 

Piece  goods,  imitation  Irish,  25  yds. 

by  36  in.,  per  piece $2A 

"long  cloths,  38  to  40  yds.  by  34 

to  36  in.,  per  piece 7 

39  to  40  yds.  bv  38  to  40  in.,  7 

"            by  44  in 7 

"           by  50  in.  )  „ 

«  by  55  in.  r**' 

«           by  60  in 10 

prints,  7-8,  light  grounds,  single 

colours,  per  piece 3 

9-8,     do.        do 3^ 

7-8,  dark        do 3 

9-8,     do.        do 4| 

7-8  and  9-8,  two  colours 3 J 

9-8,Turkeyredground,24yds.  12 

cambric,  12yds. by40in.,perpc.  l\ 

I2vds.  by42in 2 

"       by45in. 2 

jaconet,  20  yds.  by  44  to  46  in.. .  2 
handkerchiefs,  imitation  Baiick, 

double,  per  corge 6 

Pulicat,        "       3 

Rosin,  per  barrel 5 

Spelter,  per  picul 5 

Steel,  Swedish,  perpicul 9 

English,           "        — 

Tar,  Stockholm,  per  barrel 6 

Woollens,  long  ell.s,  per  piece 10 

camlets,  per  piece 32 

ladies' cloth,  per  yard 9 

Wines  and  spirits,  Shcrrj',  per  doz.  6 

Madeira,  per  dozen 7 

port,               "        8 

claret,  French,  per  dozen 4 

English,  per  dozen 10 

brandy,  per  gallon 1 

rum,            "          — 

gin,             "         4i 


To 

8 
9 

1% 

li 

n 

44: 
3t 

5i 
6 
14 
2 
U 
2| 
7 

8 
5 
6 
5t 

9i 


11 

35 

12 

12 

0 

12 


In  compiling  the  table  on  the  following  page,  which  is  intended  to  be  useful  to  mercantile  men, 
and  to  throw  some  additional  light  ui>on  the  trade  to  the  eastern  world,  I  have  made  use  of  Hamil- 
ton's East  India  Gazetteer,  Capt.  llorybnrjjh's  Directory,  Singapore  Chronicle,  British  Parliament- 
ary Papers  relating  to  the  Finances  of  India  and  Trade  to  India  and  China  in  1629  and  1S30, 
Reports  of  the  I.ord3'  and  Commons'  Committees  of  1S30,  Kelly's  Cambist,  Milbuni's  Oriental 
Commerce,  Canton  Register,  1830  and  1  ■^31 ;  the  perusal  of  which,  reduced  to  English  weights 
jtnd  money,  will  give  the  reader  a  tolerable  notion  of  the  extent,  variety,  and  prices  of  the  Canton, 
market.  Articles  not  the  produce  of  China,  but  brought  there  by  the  junks  en  entrepot,  are  marked 
with  an  asterisk. 


d. 


0 

0 

9 

6 

0 

3i 

3 

17 

10 

0 

0 

loa 

0 

0 

6* 

0 

12 

01 

0 

0 

n 

n 

6 

3i 

0  ^ 

0 
0 


li 


476  IMPORTS^ 

£    s.    d.         £    s. 

Amber l    4    0  and    2    2 

Asafetida 0    0     li} 

Biche-de-nier 0    0    3i  . .      0    0    3A 

very  superior.  .011 

Be«s'-wax 0    0    h^  . . 

Ihrds'-nestA 3  17  10    .. 

Camplwr,  Malay...  2    2    U-. 

Cloves,  Molucca.. .  0    0    9.. 

Mduriiius 0    0    5'.  .. 

Cochineal 0    9    O}  .. 

Copper,  Souili        (  0    0    85  •  • 

American \ 

Do.ai  Liming  ^  n    0    91 
for  exportalioii  <  * 

Do.  Japan 0    0    9..      00 

Coral  fniginenis...  0    0  10]. .      0    1 

Cotton  yarn 0    0  10;]  ..      0    1 

Bombay   Old) 

Ts.,01dTs.2d.  V  0    0    2A  . .      0    0 
and  '2'.d.    New  ) 

Bengal 0    0    3    ..      0    0 

Madras 0    0    3^ 

Cotton  goods,  Brit. 

cbinue8,2Syds.  0  18    0    ..      14 

Icig     cloths,  I  10    0..      12 

40  yds S 

muslins,  34  to  q  jq    o    . .      0  12 

40  yds s 

^«iinbrics,   12  q    6    0    ..     0    8 

nenryMonteith-s|  q  8  0    ..  0  10 

bandanas S 

Cow  bezoar 4  10  2^ 

Cudbear 0  0  9    ..  0    0 

Cutch,  Pegu 0  0  U..  0    0 

Cuttings,  scarlet...  0  2  4?i  . .  0    2 

Elephants'  teeth...  0  1  9.V..  0    2 

Fishmaws 0  1  2^  . .  0    2 

Oiiiseng,  crude —  0  0  9..  01 

Mace 

Myrrh 0  0  5k  ..  0    0 

Xu;megs 0  16..  01 

Olibanum 0  12  0    ••  10 

^^X\,rres!':::S^66    0    0    ..167    0    0 

Damaun         )  .^q    ^  q 

Malwa S  ^"^    "  " 

Company's  do.ll2    0  0 

Turkey,  per  lb.  0  19  10 

Orsidue,  per  100  J  inn 

sheets ^  i    v  v 

Peppec,  Malay 0    0  2^ 

Putchuck 0    0  4 

Quicksilver 0    1  lU 

Rose  maloes 0    1  34: 

Saltpetre  at  ^00'' 

Whampoa S 

Do.  Linting...  0    0  3 

Sandal-wood 0    0  3i 

Sapan-wood 0    0  Oj 

Sharks'  fina 0    0  5i 

Smalls 0    0  44 

Steel,  Swedish,  in  >  i  no  0 

kits,  per  cwt...  { 

Woollens,  broad-  (  n    e  t, 

cloth,  per  yd...  \  ^    ^  ^ 

candets,Eng-  I  a    a  n 

lish ^  4    o  u 

Dutch,    nar- 1 

row,  4/.  85.  and  V  6  10  0 
4/.  16.S. :   broad  j 

long  ells,  do...  18  0 

Skins,  beaver 0  17  0 

fox 0    2  9i 

rabbits 0    1  7% 

seal 0    6  0 

sea  otter 10    0  0 

land  otter 0  16  0 

Spelter,  per  ft) 0    0  li 

Tm  plates 

Tjd,  perlb 0    0  6..      0    0    61 


EXPORTS. 
d. 


s. 
0 
0 

7 

2    8 


O4  and 
4A  ..    ( 
6i 

0 


ao  ) 


0  0  44 


\.:~ 


£ 

Alum 0 

Aniseed,  star 0 

oil  of 0 

Bamboo      canes,  ) 

per  1000 \ 

Brass  leaf 

Camphor  at  Ma-  ) 

cao    &4d.    and  ^  (TO  10 

8kd.  ;  here 5 

Cassia  at  Macao 

34(/.  and  3Ad 

here 

buds- . 
China  root 0 

*  Cubebs 

Dragon's  blood.  •••  0 
Galangal 0 

*  Gamboge 0 

Gla.ss  beads 0 

Hartall 0 

*  Mother-of-pearM   ^    ^    ^^  ^^    ^ 
shells S 

Mu.sk 10  10    64  ..  13 

Nankeens,  Com-  i  ,(■    r,    n 

pany's,  1st ^  10    "    « 

2.1  do.  1st  sort  i 
13/.rif.  tol4Z.;>12    8    0 

2d ) 

3d  do.  do 9  12    0 

blue 14    0    0 

small 

Oil  of  cassia 0    4    6 

Rhubarb 0    1  11 

Silk,  raw,  Nankin  >    ^    n  mi 

Taysan i    "    ^      - 

ditto Tsat lee...  0  10 

Canton 0    8 

Sugar,  raw 0    0 


£  s.    d. 


58. 


0    4A 


16 


101 


109    0 
113    0 


0     I    g 


Pingfa 0 

candy,  Chin-  I  q 


9i 
24 
2 


4i 


1st  sort 


0 

0  J 


1    4    0 


0  0 
0  0 
0    I 


0    0 
0    0 

0    0 

0  0 

1  16 


0  0  21 


0    6% 


4;i 


>- 


chew \ 

-■    Canton,  ) 

2d< 

sort j 

Tea,  Bohea 

Congou 0 

Campov 

Souchong 0    0    8 

Peko 

Ankoi  

Ilyson 

Do.    Skin 0    0 

Do.  Young. . 
Gunpowder  . . . 
Twankav 0 


4i 


6.1 

10-; 
0 


0    6    9* 
4  16    0 


*  Tortoise-shell  • . 


0    7i 


2    U 

10  24 

10  lU 
10    5| 

0    4} 


0    3 

0  10 
0  11 

0    7 
0  10 


0 


3 

6i 


- 

S  Si 

7    0 

0  rs. 

u 

0 

1  12 

0    J    '^ 

1     4 

0   >^ 

0    2 

'  u 

12    0 

0        " 
0  J 

1    4 

Turmeric 0 

Tutenague 0    0 

Vermilion 

White  lead,  perlb..  0    0 
Wiianghees, 
scarce,  per  1000 


N.B.— In  converting  the  weights  and  moneys 
of  the  original  price  current,  the  picul  has  beeu 
taken  in  round  number  at  1331b.  avoird. ;  the 
tale  at  55.  7rf. ;  and  the  Spanish  dollar  at  i^. 
It  should  be  observed,  that  the  quotation  for  teas 
refers  to  the  dead  season,  and  before  the  fresb 
teas  have  come  into  the  market. 


Jan.]  DELIGHTFUL  PROSPECT.  477 

romantic  avenue  are  steep  and  rugged,  our  gallant  steeds  succeeded  in 
scaling  the  little  precipices  with  comparative  ease  and  safety.  After 
a  fatiguing  ascent  of  more  than  two  hours,  we  at  length  reached  the 
summit,  when  a  prospect  suddenly  opened  upon  our  enraptured  view 
which  amply  repaid  us  for  all  our  previous  labours.  It  was,  without  ex- 
ception, the  most  extensive  and  most  beautifully  variegated  that  I  had 
ever  seen  in  India.  No  painter  could  do  it  justice  ;  it  must  be  seen  in  all 
the  living,  breathing,  moving  colours  of  nature,  to  be  duly  appreciated. 
No  pen  can  accurately  describe  it ;  and  yet  I  shall  attempt  to  give  the 
reader  some  faint  idea  of  its  outlines. 

Standing  on  the  highest  point  or  pinnacle  of  the  island,  with  nothing 
to  obstruct  the  vision  in  any  direction,  I  first  directed  my  attention  to 
the  north.  There  lay  the  lovely  peninsula  of  Malaya,  basking  in 
the  life-giving  sunbeams,  with  its  M'ood-fringed  hills,  verdant  plains, 
and  luxuriant  valleys  ;  agreeably  interspersed  with  stupendous  preci- 
pices, gaping  chasms,  turbulent  foaming  cataracts,  and  silvery  cas- 
cades, sparkling  in  the  light.  In  one  place  was  a  mountain  torrent, 
tumbling  down  a  succession  of  adamantine  ridges,  foaming,  and  raging, 
and  fretting,  and  dashing  headlong  through  its  devious  course  down  to 
the  plains  below ;  in  another  direction  flowed  a  glassy  river,  gently 
meandering  through  grassy  meads,  till  it  united  with  its  more  restive 
neighbour  in  a  lake  or  bay,  where  the  crj'stal  waters  lay  at  rest,  re- 
flecting the  inverted  scenery  with  the  lucidity  of  a  mirror. 

The  eye  leaves  this  romantic  picture  with  reluctance,  and  turning  a 
little  more  westwardly,  instinctively  falls  on  the  beautiful  plain  at  the 
foot  of  the  hill  on  which  we  were  standing.  Here  it  ranges  whh 
delight  over  a  fertile  champaign,  diversified  with  thriving  plantations, 
gardens,  groves  of  cocoanut-trees,  betal,  areca,  and  various  other  trees 
and  shrubbery,  until  it  reaches  the  serpentine  strait  that  separates  the 
island  from  the  main ;  a  picturesque  channel,  with  a  placid  surface, 
faintly  reflecting  the  imperfect  images  of  the  floating  clouds  above. 

On  directing  the  view  to  the  south-east,  the  harbour  of  Singapore,  with 
its  numerous  shipping,  lies  in  striking  relief  before  you.  Here  will  be 
seen  as  great  a  variety  and  as  great  a  contrast,  in  the  fashion  of  vessels, 
as  the  town  presents  in  its  architecture.  Majestic  East  Indiamen,  Malay 
proas, Chinese  junks,country  ships,  grabs,with  an  endless  variety  of  small 
craft,  from  Sumatra,  Java,  Borneo,  and  the  adjacent  islands,  are  thickly 
scattered  over  the  bosom  of  the  bay.  Turning  to  the  south-west,  the 
coast  of  Sumatra  presents  an  extensive  plain  thickly  covered  with 
forests,  through  which  flow  several  rivers,  which  are  navigable  by  the 
country  proas  to  the  veiy  bases  of  the  mountains  where  they  take 
their  rise.  A  lofty  ridge  of  these  elevations  runs  through  the  whole 
island,  from  north  to  south.  In  almost  every  direction  are  coasts, 
studded  with  small  islands ;  while  to  the  "  far  west"  a  cloudless  sky, 
and  an  unruffled  sea,  sprinkled  with  vessels  of  various  descriptions, 
complete  a  circular  prospect  of  unrivalled  beauty  and  magnificence. 
We  were  all  delighted — the  ladies  were  enraptured. 

At  five,  P.  M.,  we  once  more  mounted  our  horses,  and  began  to 
descend  to  the  world  below,  through  our  deeply  shaded  pathway,  which 
at  this  hour  began  to  assume  a  sombre  solitary  appearance.     A  solemii 


478  THE  MAL.\YS.  [1831. 

stillness  prevailcO,  which  was  only  interrupted  by  the  sounds  of  our 
horses'  feet,  and  a.n  occasional  remark  from  some  one  of  the  party. 
All,  however,  seemed  more  inclined  to  silent  contemplation  than  to 
sprightly  converse,  until  we  had  reached  the  level  plain,  and  caught  a 
glimpse  of  the  declining  sun,  then  about  sinking  beyond  the  western 
waters.  Then  we  all  found  a  use  for  our  tongues.  The  doctor  led 
the  way  to  his  elegant  country-seat,  which  was  beautifully  situated  on 
a  plain  that  extended  to  the  waters  of  the  harbour,  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  tlie  town.  At  eight,  P.  M.,  we  reached  the  doctor's  villa, 
'Avhere  a  number  of  ladies  were  wailing  our  return  with  the  most  anx- 
ious suspense.  The  evening  of  course  passed  very  agreeably,  with 
the  exception  of  our  parting  regrets,  as  we  were  to  sail  on  the  follow- 
ing day,  and  bid  a  long  adieu  to  Singapore,  "  a  garden  in  tlie  East." 

January  24:th. — Having  lightened  the  Antarctic,  by  selling  a  part 
of  her  cargo,  and  taking  tortoise-shell  for  tlie  proceeds,  we  again  got 
under  way,  on  Monday,  the  24th,  at  three,  P.  M.,  and  steered  for  the 
Strait  of  Rio,  with  a  line  breeze  from  north-east,  and  fair  weather.  A 
few  of  our  particular  friends  accompanied  us  for  several  miles,  to 
enjoy  the  pleasure  of  a  sail.  Among  them  were  a  Mr.  Armstrong, 
an  English  merchant  of  the  first  standing  at  Singapore,  and  the  sons 
of  Dr.  Almador,  two  young  gentlemen  of  great  merit,  who  were  also 
engaged  in  mercantile  pursuits. 

At  four,  P.  M.,  our  Singapore  friends  took  their  leave ;  and  after 
"wishing  us  a  pleasant  passage  to  our  beloved  native  country,  departed  for 
their  delightful  island.  We  continued  on  a  south-eastern  course,  until  7, 
P.  M.,  Vt^hen  we  came  to  anchor  in  the  Strait  of  Rio,  within  half  a 
mile  of  its  eastern  shore,  in  seven  fathoms  of  water,  sand  and  coral 
bottom.  At  four,  A.  M.,  we  again  got  under  way,  cleared  the  strait, 
and  steered  for  the  Strait  of  Gosper,  w^hich  we  entered  at  eleven,  P.  M. 

January  2Qth. — On  Wednesday  the  26ih,  at  four,  A.  M.,  we 
..passed  through  the  Strait  of  Gosper,  and  found  ourselves  in  the 
Java  sea.  We  now  shaped  our  course  for  the  Strait  of  Sunda,  which 
separates  Sumatra  from  Java,  with  a  moderate  breeze  from  north- 
north-east,  and  squally.  On  Friday,  the  28th,  we  arrived  at  the  east 
entrance  of  the  strait ;  and  it  being  nearly  calm,  I  ordered  the  boat  to 
be  lowered  and  manned,  for  the  purpose  of  sending  it  on  shore  at 
North  Island.  Before  she  reached  the  shore,  however,  we  made  a 
signal  for  her  return,  as  we  perceived  by  our  glasses  some  very  sus- 
picious movements  among  the  natives,  who  appeared  to  be  lurking 
about  in  ambush. 

-' .  I  landed  at  this  place  for  w^ater  several  times,  while  I  was 
engaged  in  the  Canton  trade ;  and  never  saw  any  indications  of  a 
Jiostile  disposition  among  the  natives,  until  on  this  occasion.  I  have 
since  learned,  however,  from  good  authority,  that  an  English  boat's 
crew  had  been  cut  off  at  the  same  place,  and  in  the  same  year.  I 
would  therefore  advise  ship-masters  not  to  touch  here  for  water,  as  it 
can  be  obtained  at  the  small  town  of  Tanger,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
-strait,  at  very  short  notice,  and  moderate  price ;  where  the  anchorage 
also  is  equally  good  and  safe  with  that  of  North  Island.  Besides  this, 
the  ship's  boats  and  crew  will  be  under  the  protection  of  a  regular 


March.]  SAIL  TO  THE  WESTWARD.  479 

government,  as  Tanger  is  garrisoned  by  Dutch  troops,  and  inhabited 
by  civilized  natives.  The  necessary  directions  for  touching  at  Tanger 
point  will  be  found  in  Horsburgh's  East  India  Directory. 

The  treachery  and  perfidy  of  the  Malays  having  become  proverbial,  it 
behooves  every  ship-master,  when  in  any  of  their  ports,  to  be  constantly 
on  his  guard,  and  not  to  go  on  shore,  except  in  cases  of  absolute 
necessity,  when  the  boats'  crev/  should  be  well  armed,  and  he  himself 
furnished  with  a  brace  of  pistols  and  cutlass.  By  neglecting  these 
necessary  precautions,  many  valuable  lives  have  been  sacrificed  among 
these  cowardly  piratical  wretches.  The  ships'  guns,  both  great  and 
small,  should  also  be  constantly  kept  in  perfect  order,  and  uell  loaded. 
When  Malay  proas  are  alongside  of  a  ship,  one-fourth  of  the  crew 
should  always  be  stationed  in  the  tops,  on  each  of  which  at  least 
two  swivels  should  be  mounted,  carrying  a  poimd  and  a  half  ball, 
and  these  should  be  kept  loaded  with  canisters  of  musket-balls  and 
buck-shot.  Each  top  should  also  be  provided  with  a  water-proof  arm- 
chest,  well  stored  with  loaded  muskets  and  blunderbusses,  charged 
with  the  largest  size  buck-shot.  Each  man  in  the  tops  should  have  a 
boarding-pike  within  reach,  and  their  matches  sliould  be  kept  con- 
stantly burning,  sheltered  from  the  weather  by  water-tight  match-tubs. 

Thus  equipped,  two  men  in  each  top  would  do  more  execution  in 
case  of  an  attack  than  one  hundred  upon  deck  ;  and  it  has  ahvays 
astonished  me  that  ships  trading  in  those  seas  have  not  been  furnished 
with  close  tops,  armed  and  equipped  in  the  manner  here  mentioned ; 
instead  of  loading  their  decks  with  great  guns,  which  are  of  little  use 
when  attacked  by  these  Malays,  who  always  depend  upon  boarding. 
In  case  they  should  obtain  possession  of  the  decks,  to  the  number  of 
five  hundred  or  even  a  thousand,  a  well  delivered  fire  from  the  tops 
"would  clear  them  off,  like  chaff  before  a  tempest. 

For  a  description  of  the  character,  manners,  habits,  and  customs  of 
the  Malays  I  shall  refer  the  reader  to  the  journals  of  such  voyagers 
as  have  treated  on  these  subjects  at  large ;  particularly  that  of  Cap- 
tain II.  M.  Elmore,  in  the  East  India  Company's  service. 

January  29th. — On  Saturday,  the  29tli  of  January,  at  eleven,  A.  M., 
we  passed  Java  Head,  wlien  the  Antarctic  was  once  more  floating  011 
the  bosom  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  with  light  variable  winds  and  calms ; 
afterward  succeeded  by  great  falls  of  rain,  together  with  heavy  thun- 
der and  vivid  lightning.  We  continued  on  a  south-west  course,  making 
the  best  of  our  way  towards  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

Fthruary  \'2th. — On  Saturday,  the  12th  of  February,  being  in  lati- 
tude 11°  19'  south,  long.  95°  55'  east,  we  took  the  south-east  trade- 
wind.  We  still  pursued  the  same  course,  passing  in  sight  of  the  Isle 
of  France  and  the  island  of  Madagascar,  for  more  than  twenty  days, 
with  variable  weather. 

March  4th. — On  Friday,  the  4th  of  March,  at  four,  P.  !M.,  being  in 
latitude  32°  15',  long.  34°  IT  east,  we  spoke  the  British  East  India 
ship  Sesoslris,  Captain  Gates,  from  Canton,  bound  to  London.  Capt. 
Gates  very  politely  inquired  if  I  wished  any  supplies  or  assistance 
of  any  kind,  assuring  me  it  would  be  a  pleasure  to  him  to  spare  me  a 
pzirt  of  any  thing  his  ship  afforded.     I  made  a  suitable  acknowledg- 


480  SALDANHA  BAY— ST.  HELENA.  [1831. 

ment,  declining  the  offer  with  the  assurance  that  I  needed  nothing  but 
some  canvass  to  repair  my  sails,  M'hich  were  very  much  out  of  order. 
This,  however,  was  the  only  article  of  which  he  himself  was  short, 
nnd  as  we  now  had  a  fine  breeze  from  south-east,  and  fair  weather, 
we  continued  on  our  passage  to  the  westward,  and  by  sunset  the  Sesos- 
tris  was  hull-down  astern. 

March  lOth. — The  breeze  freshened,  and  on  Thursday,  the  lOih  of 
March,  we  saw  the  Table  Mountain  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
bearing  east-north-east,  distant  ten  leagues.  We  now  shaped  our 
course  for  Saldanha  Bay,  with  a  light  breeze  from  the  south-east,  and 
hazv. 

March  I2th. — On  Saturday,  the  12th,  we  came  to  anchor  in  the 
bay  just  mentioned,  in  four  fathoms  of  water,  muddy  bottom.  On  the 
following  morning,  at  daylight,  all  hands  were  employed  in  unbending 
the  sails,  and  taking  them  on  shore,  in  order  that  we  might  give  them 
a  thorough  repair ;  as  they  were  now  so  much  worn  that  they  would 
not  bear  lowering  down  or  hoisting  up  in  a  stiff  breeze  without  split- 
ting. We  banded  them  in -every  direction,  by  cutting  up  old  sails,  and 
middle  stitched  them  all  anew.  At  the  same  time  some  of  the  cfew 
were  employed  in  cutting  wood,  while  others  were  filling  the  water- 
casks,  and  repairing  such  rigging  as  was  out  of  order. 

March  14M. — On  Monday,  the  14th,  at  two,  P.  M.  I  took  my  wife 
up  to  the  village,  or  residence,  where  I  found  my  old  friends,  whom  I 
had  visited  on  the  previous  voyage.  They  were  all  in  good  health,  and 
received  us  with  much  cordiality  and  kindness.  It  was  now  seven 
weeks  since  we  left  Singapore,  and  it  was  pleasant  to  walk  again  on 
terra  firma.  On  the  following  day  the  Antarctic's  crew  were  supplied 
with  an  abundance  of  refreshments  of  all  kinds,  including  fresh  beef, 
pork,  mutton,  vegetables,  and  fruits. 

We  were  busily  employed  in  putting  the  sails,  rigging,  and  vessel  in 
perfect  order,  until  Monday,  the  21st ;  during  which  time  I  made  several 
excursions  into  the  country  ;  but  have  nothing  to  add  to  the  descrip- 
tions and  observations  recorded  in  my  previous  voyage. 

March  22d. — On  Tuesday,  the  22d,  after  taking  leave  of  all  our  kind 
friends,  perhaps  for  the  last  time,  we  got  under  way  at  six.  A,  M.,  and 
put  to  sea,  with  a  light  south-east  wind.  We  shaped  our  course  to  the 
north-west  for  several  days,  with  light  variable  winds  and  almost  entire 
calms.  On  Monday,  the  28th,  we  took  the  regular  south-east  trade- 
vind,  but  very  light,  from  south-east-by-east,  being  then  in  latitude  25'^ 
10'  S.,  long.  13°  15'  E.  Thus  we  ran  out  the  month  of  March  and  a 
part  of  April,  still  steering  to  the  north  and  west. 

April  7th. — On  Thursday,  the  7ih  of  April,  at  nine,  P.  M.,  ^i^e 
anchored  on  the  west  side  of  the  island  of  St.  Helena,  in  front  of  James's 
Valley,  in  ten  fathoms  of  water,  sandy  bottom.  On  the  following  day 
■we  went  on  shore  and  visited  the  tomb  of  Bonaparte,  and  indulged  in 
the  usual  contemplations  over  the  earthly  remains  of  that  wonderful 
man.  The  spot  where  he  is  "  quietly  inurned"  is  in  a  deep  valley, 
surrounded  by  a  small  iron  railing,  and  covered  with  a  coarse  brown 
stone,  lying  about  eight  inches  above  the  level  of  the  ground,  without 
any  inscription  whatever  upon  it.     And  why  should  there  be  ?     Who 


« 


April.]  ST.  HELENA.  481 

can  write  the  epitaph  of  Bonaparte  !  of  him  who  claimed  the  attributes 
of  a  god,  setting  up  and  putting  down  kings — destroying  nations,  and 
creating  empires  ! 

Bonaparte's  sepulchre  is  overhung  or  shaded  by  three  weeping- 
willows  of  a  very  large  size  ;  and  a  few  yards  to  the  south  of  it  is  a 
spring,  from  which  he  always  took  his  water.  This  interesting  spot 
is  distant  from  Jamestown  about  two  miles  and  a  half,  and  is  approached 
by  an  excellent  road  connecting  the  two  places.  We  next  visited  the 
house  in  which  he  resided,  and  the  room  in  which  he  breathed  his 
last.  We  afterward  inspected  the  new  palace  which  was  erected  for 
him  by  the  British  government ;  but  of  which  death  prevented  his  be- 
coming a  tenant. 

As  most  of  my  readers  will  expect  a  particular  description  of  this 
celebrated  island,  and  as  our  brief  stay  did  not  permit  me  to  make  many 
observations,  I  shall  take  the  liberty  of  inserting  some  extracts  from 
Purdy's  New  Sailing  Directory  ;  a  very  valuable  work,  from  which  I 
have  already  derived  considerable  assistance  in  making  out  the  sailing 
directions  of  this  journal,  finding'  them  to  agree  so  exactly  with  my  own 
observations.  The  author  is  John  Purdy,  Esq.,  hydrographer  for  the 
admiralty  of  Great  Britain ;  a  gentleman  to  whom  the  commercial 
world  is  much  indebted,  on  both  sides  the  Atlantic. 

I  presume  every  one  knows  that  this  island  derived  its  name  from 
the  circumstance  of  its  having  been  first  discovered  on  St.  Helen's  day 
in  the  year  1502,  by  the  Portuguese  admiral  Joao  da  Nova  Galego* 
"In  1513  it  became  the  voluntary  abode  of  Fernandez  Lopez,  a  Portu- 
guese nobleman,  on  returning  in  disgrace  from  India ;  who,  being  left 
here  with  a  few  servants  and  some  useful  animals,  assiduously  culti- 
vated its  resources.  In  a  few  years  he  was  recalled  to  his  country, 
and  imparted  the  advantages  of  St.  Helena  to  the  East  India  trade."^ 
Thomas  Cavendish,  in  his  famous  cruise  around  the  globe,  visited  the 
island  in  1588,  and  found,  as  he  has  said,  "divers  handsome  buildings 
and  houses  ;  a  church,  tiled  and  whitened  very  fair ;  a  causey  made 
up  with  stones,  reaching  into  a  valley  by  the  seaside."  This  valley 
he  describes  as  the  "  fairest  and  largest  low  spot  in  all  the  island,  and 
is  exceedingly  sweet  and  pleasant,  and  planted  in  every  place  either 
with  fruit  or  with  herbs." 

In  pursuing  this  description  Cavendish  say&,  "  There  are  fig-trees- 
which  bear  fruit  continually,  and  very  plentifully  ;  for  on  every  tree  you 
may  see  blossoms,  green  figs,  and  ripe  figs,  all  at  once  ;  and  it  is  so  all 
the  year  long.  There  is  also  a  great  store  of  lemon-trees,  orange-trees, 
pomegranate-trees,  and  date-trees,  which  bear  fruit  as  the  fig-trees  do,  and 
are  planted  carefully  and  very  artificially,  with  pleasant  walks  under  and 
between  them.  In  every  void  place  is  planted  parsley,  sorrel,  basil, 
fennel,  aniseed,  mustard-seed,  radishes,  and  many  very  good  herbs. 
The  fresh-water  brook  runneth  through  divers  places  of  this  orchard,, 
and  may  be  made  to  water  any  tree  in  the  valley."  The  English  ship 
Bonaventure,  Captain  James  Lancaster,  was  here  in  1593,  and  re- 
mained about  three  weeks. 

It  seems  that  more  than  one  hundred  and  thirty  years  elapsed  from 
the  time  of  its  fijst  discovery,  before  any  attempts  were  made  to  colo- 

Hh 


482  ST.  HELENA.  [1831. 

nize  tlie  island  of  St.  Helena.  "  For  some  time  after  the  departure  of 
Lopez,"  says  Purdy,  "  the  island  does  not  appear  to  have  been  regu- 
larly inhabited  ;  but  in  1640  the  Dutch  attempted  to  establish  a  settle- 
ment here,  which  they  relinquished  in  1651  to  the  English  East  India 
Company ;  and  to  this  company  the  entire  possession  and  sovereignty 
of  the  island  were  granted  by  charter  of  Charles  II.,  3d  of  April,  1661. 
At  the  close  of  1672  the  Dutch,  by  the  treachery  of  one  of  the  inhabit- 
ants, again  obtained  possession  ;  but  it  was  soon  recaptured  by  three 
of  the  king's  ships,  under  the  command  of  Captain  Richard  Munden. 
The  island  thus  relapsed,  by  consent,  to  the  crown,  but  was  regranted 
by  the  king  to  the  East  India  Company,  in  whom  the  property  and 
sovereignty  have  since  been  vested.  The  second  charter,  dated  the 
16th  of  December,  1673,  constitutes  the  governor  and  company  the 
true  and  absolute  lords  and  proprietors  of  the  island,  with  full  legisla- 
tive power,  but,  as  near  as  may  be,  agreeably  to  the  laws  of  England, 
and  reserving  also  the  faith  and  allegiance  of  subjects  to  the  crown, 
and  the  rights  of  the  natives,  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  as  if  they  had 
been  abiding  and  born  within  the  realm."  Such  is  the  brief,  but  I 
believe  authentic,  history  which  Mr.  Purdy  gives  of  this  celebrated 
island. 

As  respects  description^  all  writers  agree  that  when  first  descried, 
from  almost  any  point  of  the  compass,  St.  Helena  appears  like  one 
vast  rock  or  castle,  surrounded  by  the  ocean  ;  the  coasts  being  gene- 
rally high,  rugged,  and  precipitous.  "  On  advancing,"  says  Purdy, 
"  the  prospect  gradually  improves ;  the  mountains  appear  in  varied 
hues,  and  then  assume  the  verdant  tint  which  distinguishes  their  summits. 
The  rocky  coasts  will  now  present  a  striking  contrast  to  the  green 
hills  and  valleys  of  the  interior.  The  town  will  next  be  seen,  seated 
in  a  narrow  valley  between  the  mountains,  with  the  batteries,  the  church, 
and  the  white  houses,  interspersed  with  trees  ;  constituting,  altogether, 
a  picturesque  and  animating  scene." 

In  speaking  of  the  mountainous  parts  of  this  adamantine  island,  he 
says,  "  An  elevated  chain  or  ridge,  extending  nearly  east  and  west, 
divides  the  island  into  two  unequal  parts  ;  numerous  ridges  and  valleys 
branch  from  it  in  various  directions.  Diana's  Peak,  the  summit  of  the 
chain  towards  the  east,  is  the  highest  point  of  St.  Helena.  This  peak 
commands  a  magnificent  prospect  of  all  the  island,  with  its  ridges  and 
hollows  to  the  sea,  its  mountains,  houses,  and  plantations  ;  and  within 
the  area  of  its  horizon,  the  approaching  and  departing  shipping,  to  the 
distance  of  nearly  sixty  miles,  if  the  weather  be  clear." 

There  are  only  two  secure  landing-places  at  this  island ;  one  of 
which  is  at  Rupert's,  and  the  other  at  James's  or  Chapel  Valley.  In 
the  former  valley,  near  the  sea,  is  a  strong  fort  or  battery,  well  mounted 
with  heavy  cannon ;  but  there  are  no  inhabitants  near  it,  on  account 
of  the  valley  being  destitute  of  fresh  water.  "■  In  the  entrance  of  James's 
Valley  stands  Jamestown,  which  is  defended  by  a  very  fine  line  of 
thirty-two  pounders,  and  flanked  by  a  high  inaccessible  battery  upon 
the  rocks,  called  Munden's,  close  under  which  all  ships  must  pass  to 
come  to  an  anchor  before  the  town.  The  principal  street  consists  of 
neat  and  well  constructed  houses,  and  divides  into  two  others  ;  one  on 


April]  ST.  HELENA.  483 

the  east,  leading  to  the  country  in  that  direction,  and  the  other  to  the 
upper  part  of  the  valley,  where  the  barracks,  the  new  garden,  and  the 
hospital  are  situated.  In  the  western  street  are  a  number  of  shops, 
stored  with  European  and  India  goods ;  but  the  houses  here  are  very 
inferior  to  those  in  the  lower  street,  where  the  principal  inhabitants 
reside. 

"  The  water  that  supplies  the  garrison  and  shipping  is  conveyed  by 
leaden  pipes  from  a  spring  in  the  valley,  distant  more  than  a  mile  from 
the  sea.  These  pipes  lead  the  water  to  the  jetty,  where  there  are  two 
cranes  for  the  use  of  boats,  in  loading  with  goods  or  water-casks,  or 
for  receiving  stores  from  the  shipping. 

"  On  the  right,  or  western  side,  the  valley  is  entered  from  the 
interior,  by  the  steep  promontory  called  Ladder  Hill ;  the  zigzag  road 
upon  which,  nine  feet  in  breadth,  has  a  wall  on  the  side  next  the  preci- 
pice, and  is  very  easy  of  ascent.  On  the  left  of  the  valley  the  car- 
riage-road, called  side-path,  is  the  avenue  to  the  interior  of  the  island 
eastward.  This  road,  which  has  been  made  with  great  labour  and 
difficulty,  goes  with  an  easy  ascent  transversely  to  the  level  above, 
whence  the  prospect  is  striking  and  delightful :  from  a  steril,  brown 
and  barren  rock  you  view  the  most  lively  verdure ;  beautiful  lawns, 
with  sheep  and  cattle  feeding  in  different  places,  and  interspersed  with 
small  houses,  which  have  generally  a  large  enclosure  laid  into  gardens. 
This  view  is  terminated  by  a  prospect  of  the  sea ;  or  by  high  rocks, 
apparently  heaped  one  upon  another  to  a  stupendous  height.  The 
plain,  called  Longv/ood,  towards  the  eastern  side  of  the  island,  con- 
tains the  greatest  quantity  of  level  ground.  A  considerable  space  on 
it  is  planted  with  trees.  This  plain,  one  thousand  seven  hundred  and 
sixty-two  feet  high,  forms  another  point  of  view.  The  scenery  is  here 
enlivened  by  a  small  winding  stream,  which,  falling  from  the  heights  into 
the  valley,  makes  a  delightful  cascade.  Upon  the  edges  of  the  stream 
watercresses  are  often  plentiful. 

"  A  rich  mould,  from  six  to  twelve  inches  deep,  forms,  over  the  rock, 
the  general  soil  of  the  country,  and  nourishes  a  great  variety  of  plants. 
The  clefts  and  inequalities  produce  trees  of  various  species ;  and 
among  these  the  tallow-tree  is  said  to  be  indigenous.  Several  of  the 
latter  grow  oh  the  hills,  and  there  is  a  copse  of  them  at  the  south-west 
part  of  the  island.  The  lands  are  devoted  chiefly  to  pasturage,  and 
the  gardens  to  culinary  roots  and  vegetables.  Utility  takes  precedence 
of  taste  ;  and  although  the  sugar-cane,  cotton-tree,  indigo,  &c.,  with 
the  most  beautiful  plants,  have  been  introduced,  the  great  purpose  of 
rearing  cattle  and  useful  herbs  has  always  been  primarily  and  closely 
regarded.  The  country  was  found,  in  the  first  instance,  covered  with 
wood.  Its  peculiar  productions  have  since  given  place  to  more  useful 
ones.  The  wire-grass  of  India,  samphire,  and  a  wild  celery  abounded 
here ;  the  wire-grass  is  now  found  principally  in  low  lands  ;  the  Eng- 
lish vernal  grass  upon  the  heights.  The  English  oak  has  also  ap- 
peared ;  it  grows  remarkably  quick,  but  has  never  attained  perfection. 
"  Figs,  oranges,  and  pines  are  found  in  the  valley  by  the  shore,  and 
but  few  English  fruits  have  failed.  The  apple-trees  are  very  abundant^ 
In  a  valley  near  the  south-east  part  of  the  island,  having  a  run  of  water 

Hh2 


484  «T.  HELENA.  [1831. 

through  it,  which  issues  from  the  eastern  side  of  Diana's  Peak,  there 
is  an  orchard  of  apple-trees,  which  flourishes  in  a  remarkable  manner, 
the  branches  being,  loaded  to  the  ground  with  fruit ;  while,  on  the  same 
tree,  the  blossom  is  seen,  and  the  apple  in  all  its  different  stages,  from 
its  first  formation  until  it  is  ripe,  and  falling  to  the  ground.  The  soil 
of  this  orchard  is  a  deep  black  loam.  On  one  side  of  the  valley  it  is 
ten  or  twelve  feet  deep,  sloping  down  with  a  considerable  declivity  ; 
and  might  be  rendered  very  valuable  if  properly  cultivated.  The  tropi- 
cal fruits  ripen  best  in  the  valleys  near  the  sea  ;  peaches,  guavas, 
grapes,  and  figs,  in  different  parts  of  the  island.  The  hopes  of  the 
farmer  have  been  frequently  disappointed  in  the  cultivation  of  grain  ; 
sometimes  from  drought — at  others  from  the  depredations  of  rats,  which 
have  at  times  been  so  numerous  as  to  destroy  entire  crops.  Potatoes, 
yams,  cabbages,  pease,  beans,  &.c.  are  generally  plentiful. 

"  Cattle  of  English  origin  are  reared  for  the  use  of  the  company's  ships, 
and  supplied  to  them  very  sparingly  when  a  fleet  arrives  ;  the  quantity 
reared  not  being  adequate  to  the  demand.  The  sheep  and  beasts  are 
in  no  respect  degenerated  by  change  of  climate.  In  some  situations 
rabbits  abound ;  pheasants  and  partridges  are  numerous,  and  the  gar- 
dens are  enlivened  by  the  notes  of  the  Canary-bird.  Fish,  to  the  ex- 
tent of  seventy  species,  have  been  found  on  the  coast ;  among  these 
mackerel  are  peculiarly  abundant.  The  shellfish  include  turtle,  oysters, 
and  two  species  of  lobster.  Sea-fowl  deposite  immense  quantities  of 
eggs  around  the  island,  which  are  collected  in  the  fall  of  the  year,  and 
constitute  an  agreeable  article  of  food. 

"  Of  the  climate  under  which  such  products  are  found  but  little  need 
be  said.  The  thermometer  is  seldom  higher  than  eighty,  and  the 
summer  not  so  hot  as  in  England.  The  winter  is  also  milder,  com- 
monly ranging  between  fifty-five  and  fifty- six  degrees  ;  a  temperature  in 
which  the  vegetation  of  leaves  proceeds  with  more  equality  perhaps 
than  any  other.  Thunder  is  seldom  heard  ;  but  with  a  sultry  atmo- 
sphere, lightning  is  not  unfrequently  seen.  There  have  been  seasons 
of  drought  wherein  the  cattle  have  perished  from  want  of  water ;  but 
in  general,  rain  is  experienced  in  all  seasons,  particularly  in  July, 
August,  and  September,  or  the  summer  months  of  the  northern  hemi- 
sphere. Sir  Joseph  Banks  has  said  that  '  every  month  h-as  its  share ;. 
there  are  more  rainy  days  in  February,  however,  than  in  any  other 
period  ;  and  cloudy  days  throughout  the  year  exceed  in  number,  almost 
two  to  one,  those  in  which  the  rays  of  the  sun  fall  upon  the  earth 
without  interruption,  and  scorch  the  vegetation.' 

"  On  the  hills  and  high  grounds  the  air  is  generally  cool  and  agree- 
able ;  fog-clouds  frequently  cover  the  peaks  ;  or,  being  driven  from  the 
sea  by  the  wind,  strike  against  them,  producing  gentle  showers,  which 
quicken  the  vegetation,  and  cool  the  atmosphere  on  the  heights.  Hence 
the  luxuriance  of  the  pastures  increases  in  proportion  to  the  distance 
and  height  from  the  sea ;  and  upon  the  summits  of  the  hills  the  oxen 
may  be  seen  up  to  their  knees  in  grass. 

"  During  the  time  a  ship  or  fleet  remains  in  the  roads,  the  passen- 
gers are  entertained  as  boarders  at  private  houses,  but  at  a  very  expen- 
sive rate  :  for  which  a  good  table  with  wines,  and  comfortable  lodgings* 


April.]  ST.  HELENA.  485 

are  generally  provided.  The  arrival  of  a  fleet  brings  all  the  people  of 
the  town  from  their  country  avocations  ;  this  being  the  season  of  traffic. 
Of  a  large  fleet,  the  crews  and  passengers  may  nearly  equal  in  number 
the  population  of  the  island. 

"  Upwards  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  ships  annually,  upon  an  average, 
come  to  an  anchor  here  ;  which,  of  course,  produces  great  fluctuations 
in  the  prices  of  provisions  :  and  there  is  sometimes  a  temporary  scar- 
city. The  salted  meat  of  England  and  the  rice  of  Bengal  supply  the 
deficiency.  These  articles  being  cheaper  than  fresh  provisions,  con- 
stitute the  principal  food  of  the  garrison  and  inhabitants.  Salted  meat 
is  issued  from  the  company's  stores  under  prime  cost,  and  other  articles 
at  only  ten  per  cent,  advance,  including  freight.  Beef  is  sold  at  6hd. 
per  pound,  alive,  having  been  raised  to  that  price  since  1808  ;  and,  as 
it  is  principally  destined  for  the  king's  or  the  company's  shipping,  no 
person  may  kill  even  his  own  ox  without  permission  of  the  governor. 
"  The  population,  exclusive  of  the  government  establishment,  civil 
and  military,  is  about  two  thousand,  of  whom  about  twelve  hundred  are 
slaves,  and  three  hundred  free  blacks.  No  stranger  is  permitted  to 
remain  on  the  island  without  the  special  consent  of  the  '  lords  pro- 
prietors,' the  East  India  Company." 

In  approaching  this  island,  all  ships  must  double  round  the  north 
point,  and  bring-to  when  they  are  to  windward  of  the  castle.  They 
must  then  send  a  boat  on  shore,  with  an  officer,  to  report  their  nation 
and  business  at  the  castle,  and  obtain  permission  of  the  governor  to 
anchor  there.  AVithout  conforming  to  these  rules,  all  the  batteries 
would  open  their  fire  upon  the  stranger  as  she  approached  ;  and  it 
would  be  very  difficult  even  for  a  large  fleet  of  men-of-war  to  force  a 
passage  to  the  anchorage.  As  Jamestown  is  situated  in  the  most  lee- 
ward and  low  part  of  the  island,  ships  in  coming  in  are  obliged  to 
keep  close  under  the  land,  by  which  means  their  decks  are  entirely 
exposed  to  the  batteries  above.  Another  disadvantage  to  which  a 
hostile  ship  or  squadron  would  be  exposed,  is  that  of  eddy  winds, 
calms,  and  violent  gusts,  which  often  lay  them  almost  on  their  broad- 
sides ;  so  that  the  natural  strength  of  St.  Helena,  without  reference  to 
artificial  defences,  is  almost  sufficient  to  protect  her  against  quite  a 
formidable  enemy. 

"  A  ship  bound  to  this  island  must  run  down  along  the  north  side  of 
it,  within  a  cable's  length  of  Sugarloaf  Point,  and  afterward  keep  the 
shore  close  on  board,  and  likewise  within  a  cable's  length  ;  there  is  no 
danger,  as  it  is  bold  and  steep-to.  On  the  west  part  of  Sugarloaf 
Point  stands  a  small  fort,  and  a  little  to  the  southward  of  it  is  Rupert's 
Valley.  The  next  point  to  the  southward  of  the  valley  is  Munden 
Point,  which,  like  the  rest,  must  be  kept  close  on  board.  You  then 
come  to  James's  Valley,  ofl*  which  is  the  place  of  anchoring. 

"  You  may  anchor  in  from  eight  to  fifteen  fathoms :  the  flag-staff* 
at  the  fort  bearino-  from  south-south-east  to  south-east-bv-south : 
Sugarloaf  Point  nordi-east-by-east ;  and  Horse-pasture  Point  south- 
by-west-hdlf-west,  distant  off-shore  about  half  a  mile.  With  these 
bearings,  you  have  a  good  and  convenient  berth  for  watering. — 
This  bank  runs  out  to  the  westward,  ofl'  tlie  fort,  about  a  mile  and  a 
half,  and  deepens  gradually,  from  seven  fathoms  near  the  shore  to 


486  *  THE  AZORES— TERCERA.  [1831. 

thirty  and  thirty-five  for  about  a  mile  and  a  quarter,  when  it  deepens 
suddenly  to  sixty  fathoms,  and  then  no  soundings.  The  bottom  in  the 
road  is  coarse  sand  and  gravel.  You  will  find  no  soundings  until 
you  come  abreast  of  Rupert's  Valley,  where  there  are  from  eighteen 
to  twenty  fathoms.  One  watering-place  is  just  without  James's  Fort, 
where  there  is  a  crane  for  striking  the  casks  into  the  boats.  The 
other  is  at  Lemon  Valley,  where  there  is  the  best  water,  and  you  may 
till  the  casks  in  your  boats  with  a  hose." 

April  9th. — On  Saturday,  the  9th  of  April,  at  ten,  P.  M.,  we  got 
under  way,  and  steered  to  the  north,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  the  south- 
east and  fair  weather,  which  continued  about  ten  days. 

April  I9th. — We  crossed  the  equator  on  Tuesday,  the  19th,  in  long. 
20°  15'  west.  We  now  had  almost  continual  calms,  with  occasional 
light  baffling  winds,  for  more  than  three  weeks,  during  which  time  we 
made  only  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  leagues  to  the  north. 

Mai/  13th. —  On  Friday,  the  13th  of  May,  we  took  the  north-east 
trade-winds  in  lat.  13°  0'  N.,  long.  23°  0'  W.,  and  continued  stand- 
ing to  the  north,  until  we  arrived  at  the  island  of  Tercera,  one  of  the 
Azores,  lying  in  lat.  38°  39'  N„  long.  27°  12'  W. 

Jufie  1st. — On  Wednesday,  the  1st  of  June,  at  six,  P.  M.,  we  touched 
at  the  port  of  Angra,  the  capital  of  Tercera.  This  is  a  bishop's  see, 
and  the  residence  of  the  governor  of  the  Azores.  The  town  is  well 
built,  and  presents  a  favourable  appearance  to  the  eye  of  a  stranger. 
It  contains  five  parishes,  and  has  an  elegant  cathedral,  several  churches, 
four  monasteries,  and  as  many  nunneries.  The  word  angra  signifies 
a  small  bay,  or  creek,  or  station  for  vessels  ;  this  harbour  being  the 
only  convenient  one  in  all  the  Azores.  It  is  defended  by  a  strong 
castle  and  deep  ditch.  King  Alphonso  VI,  was  imprisoned  in  this 
castle  by  his  brother  Peter  II.  in  1668.  The  Americans,  English, 
French,  and  Dutch  have  consuls  residing  here.  The  population  of 
Angra  is  about  fifteen  thousand,  while  that  of  the  whole  island  is  esti- 
mated at  double  that  amount. 

The  island  of  Tercera,  or  Terceira,  as  it  is  often  spelled,  is  supposed 
to  have  derived  its  name  from  its  local  situation,  being  the  third  in 
counting  the  whole  group  ;  though  it  ought  to  rank  as  number  one  in 
point  of  dignity  and  importance,  as  appears  from  a  number  of  circum- 
stances, such  as  its  being  the  seat  of  government,  and  the  focus  of 
business,  and  because  the  whole  cluster  is  sometimes  called  the  Ter- 
ceras.  This  island  is  nearly  circular,  and  more  than  fifty  miles  in 
circumference ;  it  being  twenty-five  miles  in  length,  while  its  medium 
breadth  is  about  fifteen.  The  shores  all  around  it  are  high,steep,  rocky, 
and  craggy ;  so  much  so  that  it  is  considered  to  be  impregnable,  as  every 
accessible  part  on  the  coast  is  defended  by  a  strong  fort,  mounted  with 
heavy  cannon,  and  vvell  garrisoned  with  a  competent  number  of  soldiers. 

The  soil  is  rich  and  productive,  and  the  climate  pleasant  and  healthy  ; 
the  very  rocks,  which  elsewhere  are  dry  and  barren,  are  here  covered  with 
vines  producing  excellent  grapes,  though  not  equal  to  those  of  the  Cana- 
ries and  Madeira.  Lemons,  oranges,  and  other  tropical  fruits  grow  here 
abundantly,  as  do  also  the  fruits  of  colder  climates.  The  land  yields 
large  crops  of  wheat  and  other  grain,  together  with  excellent  pasturage 


June.J  THE  AZORES.  487 

for  cattle.  Besides  Angra,  there  are  several  other  towns  and  large 
villages  on  this  island ;  but  no  harbour  that  is  even  tolerable,  excepting 
that  of  Angra.  The  forts  and  garrisons  are  under  the  direction  of  the 
governor,  who  has  the  power  of  filling  all  the  vacancies  that  happen 
among  the  military  officers. 

The  Azores  (Hawk  Islands),  or  Western  Isles,  are  a  group  or 
cluster  of  islands,  lying  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean, 
westward  of  Portugal,  to  which  kingdom  they  belong.  They  are 
about  nine  hundred  miles  west  of  Cape  Vincent,  and  about  the  same 
distance  south-east  of  Newfoundland,  so  that  they  are  almost  at  an 
equal  distance  from  Europe,  Africa,  and  North  America.  The  centre 
of  the  group  is  in  the  same  latitude  as  the  Capes  of  the  Delaware,  from 
which  they  are  six  hundred  leagues  east.  They  are  seen  from  a  great 
distance  at  sea,  on  account  of  a  high  mountain  called  the  peak^  or pico^ 
rising  from  an  island  of  the  same  name.  These  islands  are  nine  in 
number,  and  are  known  by  the  following  names  :  Tercera,  St.  Michael, 
Santa  Maria,  Gratiosa,  St.  George,  Fayal,  Pico,  Flores,  and  Corvo. 
The  two  last  are  veiy  small,  and  lie  at  a  considerable  distance  from 
the  rest. 

The  Portuguese  claim  the  discovery  of  the  whole  group,  though 
they  cannot  tell  by  what  navigator,  nor  at  what  precise  period  they 
were  first  seen.  The  Flemings  maintain  that  they  were  first  discovered 
by  one  of  their  countrymen,  Joshua  Vanderberg,  a  merchant  of  Bruges  ; 
who,  wlien  on  a  voyage  to  Lisbon,  in  1439,  was  driven  from  his  course 
in  a  violent  storm,  and  fell  in  with  this  group,  which  he  called  "  The 
Flamingas,"  or  Flemish  Islands.  This  was  fifty-three  years  before 
Columbus  sailed  on  his  first  voyage. 

On  his  arrival  at  Lisbon,  Vanderberg  communicated  the  discovery 
to  some  of  his  friends,  and  gave  such  a  favourable  account  of  his  ad- 
venture as  induced  the  Portuguese,  who  were  then  the  most  enterpris- 
ing nation  in  Europe,  to  attempt  a  further  discovery.  They  accordingly 
explored  the  whole  cluster,  in  1444  ;  and  Don  Henry,  Prince  of  Portu- 
gal, was  so  pleased  with  the  acquisition,  that  he  went  in  person  to  take 
possession  of  them  in  1449.  In  1466  Alphonso  V.  gave  them  to  his 
sister,  the  Duchess  of  Burgund}^  when  some  of  them  were  colonized 
by  Germans  and  Flemings,  who  always  acknowledged  the  authority 
of  Portugal.  They  were  called  "  The  Azores,"  from  the  immense 
number  of  hawks  found  among  them. 

These  islands  are  evidently  of  volcanic  origin,  and  they  have  fre- 
quently suffered  severely  from  earthquakes  and  eruptions.  In  Kircher's 
Mundus  Subterraneous,  lib.  iii.,  we  are  informed  that  "In  1538,  fre- 
quent earthquakes  were  felt  for  nearly  eight  days,  which  were  so  vio- 
lent as  to  compel  the  inhabitants  to  forsake  their  houses,  and  lie  night 
and  day  in  the  open  fields.  On  the  26th  of  June,  ajire  burst  through 
the  surface  of  the  sca^flaining  to  the  clouds,  vomiting  prodigious  quan- 
tities of  sand,  earth,  stones,  and  minerals ;  and  raging  with  such  fury 
that,  had  not  the  wind  blown  from  the  land,  the  whole  of  the  neighr 
bouring  islands  would  have  been  destroyed.  This  was  followed  by 
the  emersion  of  a  group  of  rocks,  which  at  first  filled  a  space  of  only 
five  or  six  acres,  but  which  soon  extended  to  as  many  miles.     Another 


488  THE  AZORES.  [1831. 

shock  of  an  earthquake  broke  them  in  pieces,  and  then  united  them  ia 
a  soHd  mass,  which  now  forms  one  of  the  small  islands  that  lie  on  the 
north-west  of  the  Azores." 

In  the  thirty-second  volume  of  "  Philosophical  Transactions ^^^  we 
are  informed,  that  "  In  1720,  another  island,  amid  fire  and  smoke,  which 
roared  like  thunder,  appeared  between  St.  Michael's  and  Tercera,  on 
the  night  of  the  20th  of  November.  The  bursting  out  of  the  flames 
Vas  attended  by  an  earthquake,  which  shattered  many  of  the  houses  in 
Tercera ;  and,  for  many  leagues  round  the  island,  astonishing  quanti- 
ties of  pumice-stone  and  half-broiled  fish^  were  found  floating  on  the 
sea."  It  appears,  however,  that  this  island  has  since  disappeared. 
Another  terrible  earthquake  occurred  on  the  9th  of  July,  1757,  which 
shook  the  whole  group  of  islands  to  their  very  foundations,  and  pro- 
duced a  new  progeny  of  eighteen  small  islands,  a  short  distance  from 
the  north  coast  of  St.  George's  ;  which  also  disappeared  in  a  few 
months. 

The  seventh  volume  of  the  Christian  Observer  contains  a  particular 
account  of  a  new  volcano  whir-h  made  its  appearance  in  the  island  of 
St.  George,  on  the  1st  of  May,  1R08.  "  The  fire  burst  out  in  a  ditch 
in  the  midst  of  fertile  pastures,  three  leagues  south-east  of  Vellas,  and 
immediately  formed  a  crater,  in  size  about  twenty -foar  acres.  It  raged 
with  great  fury  for  two  days,  and  the  cinders  which  it  threw  up,  being 
propelled  by  a  strong  north-east  wind,  covered  the  ground  from  one  to 
four  feet  in  depth,  for  half  a  league  in  breadth,  and  three  leagues  in 
length  ;  and  then  passing  a  channel  about  five  leagues  wide,  were 
driven  upon  the  east  point  of  Pico.  The  fire  had  nearly  subsided  on 
the  evening  of  the  2d,  when  a  smaller  crater  opened  a  league  nearer 
Vellas.  Its  mouth  was  only  about  fifty  yards  in  circumference.  The  fire 
seemed  struggling  for  vent,  and  the  force  with  which  a  pale  blue  flame 
issued  forth  resembled  a  powerful  steam-engine  multiplied  a  hundred- 
fold. The  whole  island  was  convulsed ;  earthquakes  were  frequent, 
and  horrid  bellowings  were  occasionally  heard  from  the  bowels  of  the 
earth ! 

*'  This  was  followed  by  twelve  or  fifteen  small  volcanoes,  which 
broke  out  in  the  neighbouring  field  ;  but  they  all  subsided  on  the  11th, 
when  the  large  volcano,  which  had  lain  dormant  for  nine  days,  burst 
forth  with  more  tremendous  force,  and  continued  to  rage  until  the  5th 
of  June,  when  it  began  to  fail,  and  a  few  days  after  it  entirely  ceased.* 
Its  horrid  belchings  were  distinctly  heard  at  twelve  leagues'  distance, 
and  the  immense  quantity  of  lava  which  it  vomited  overwhelmed  in  its 
course  farms,  cattle,  cornfields,  and  vineyards,  and  swept  the  town  of 
XJrsulina  from  its  foundation  !  Though  it  gave  timely  notice  of  its 
approach,  many  of  the  inhabitants,  by  remaining  too  long  in  its  vicinity, 
endeavouring  to  save  their  effects,  were  so  dreadfully  scalded  by  flashes 
of  steam  (which,  without  injuring  their  clothes,  took  ofl*,  not  only  their 
skin,  but  their  very  flesh),  that  several  of  them  died  upon  the  spot. 
About  sixty  suffered  in  this  miserable  manner,  and  so  great  was  the 
anxiety  and  consternation  which  seized  upon  the  people,  that  they  en» 

*  The  elevation  of  the  crater  is  about  three  thousand  five  hundred  feet,  and  its  distance  from  the 
^oa  about  four  miles. 


June.]  THE  AZORES.  489 

tirely  abandoned  their  domestic  concerns,  and  were  in  danger  of  starv- 
ing in  the  midst  of  plenty." 

On  the  29th  of  January,  1810,  frequent  shocks  of  earthquakes  were 
experienced  at  the  island  of  St.  Michael's,  and  a  marine  volcano  burst 
through  the  sea,  about  half  a  league  from  the  land.  On  the  15th  of 
June,  in  the  following  year,  another  phenomenon  of  similar  character 
occurred,  near  the  west  end  of  the  same  island,  about  three  miles 
from  land,  in  forty  fathoms  of  water. 

The  Azores  are  subject  also  to  violent  winds,  and  frequent  inunda- 
tions of  the  ocean,  which  often  overwhelm  the  houses,  and  sweep  from 
the  fields  the  flocks  and  grain.  They  are,  however,  extremely  fertile, 
and  produce  corn,  wine,  and  fruits  in  great  abundance.  There  is  an 
annual  exportation  of  twenty  thousand  pipes  of  wine  ;  and  the  single 
article  of  tobacco  affords  a  considerable  revenue  to  the  King  of  Portu- 
gal, who  claims  a  tenth  of  all  the  productions  of  these  islands.  The 
air  is  wholesome,  and  the  sky  is  generally  clear  and  serene.  No 
poisonous  or  noxious  animals  breed  on  the  Azores  ;  and  it  is  said, 
that  if  carried  thither  they  will  expire  in  a  few  hours.*  The  popula- 
tion of  the  whole  group  has  been  lately  estimated  at  two  hundred 
thousand. 

St.  Michael,  or  St.  Miguel,  which  is  the  largest  island  of  the  whole 
cluster,  is  situated  in  lat.  .37°  50'  N.,  long.  25°  39'  W.,  about  twenty- 
five  leagues  south-east  from  Tercera.  The  celebrated  Cabral  took 
possession  of  it  in  the  name  of  Portugal,  in  1444.  It  is  quite  moun- 
tainous in  the  interior,  some  of  the  peaks  towering  to  the  height  of 
seven  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Among  these  moun- 
tains are  several  valuable  mineral  springs.  The  climate  is  mild  and 
agreeable,  and  the  soil  is  rich  and  fertile,  producing  corn,  potatoes, 
peaches,  plums,  grapes,  oranges,  lemons,  &c.  The  waters  around 
the  shores,  and  in  the  inlets,  are  teeming  with  fish  of  various  kinds, 
and  of  an  excellent  quality,  which  can  be  caught  in  great  abundance. 
This  island  has  considerable  commerce  with  Portugal,  England,  and 
the  United  States.  The  population  has  been  estimated  at  eighty-one 
thousand.  In  August,  1831,  the  troops  of  Donna  Maria,  the  niece  of 
Don  Pedro,  took  possession  of  this  island,  and  still  hold  it  at  the  pres- 
ent day,  October,  1832. 

Pico  derives  its  name  from  a  lofty  mountain  on  it,  much  like  th'e  Peak 
of  Teneriffe,  the  summit  of  which  is  more  than  seven  thousand  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  it  can  be  seen  from  a  great  distance  in  clear  weather. 
Mr.  Pinkerton  strongly  recommends  to  geographers  to  assume  this 
mountain  as  a  first  meridian  of  longitude.  It  is  in  lat,  38°  27'  N.,  long. 
28°  28'  W.  The  population  is  about  twenty-one  thousand,  who  are 
principally  employed  m  cultivating  the  vine,  and  making  wine  for  ex- 
portation. 

The  island  of  St.  George  is  in  lat.  38°  31'  N.,  long.  27°  55'  W., 
and  the  population  is  estimated  at  twelve  thousand.  The  inhabitants 
are  employed  in  the  cultivation  of  wheat. 

Fayal  is  a  circular  island,  about  ten  miles  in  diameter,  rising  ab- 
ruptly from  the  sea,  in  lat.  38°  31'  N.,  long.  28°  41'  W.,  and  its  centre 

*  Edin.  Eiicyrlopeditt. 


490  ARRIVE  AT  CADIZ.  [1631. 

towers  to  the  height  of  about  three  thousand  feet.  The  capital  of 
Fayal  is  Villa  de  Horta,  or  Orta.  This  island  is  evidently  of  volcanic 
origin,  but  the  soil  is  rich,  mellow,  and  fertile  ;  producing  wheat,  maize, 
flax,  and  nearly  all  the  fruits  of  Europe  and  the  United  States.  Oranges 
and  lemons  are  abundant.  The  climate  is  temperate,  mild,  and  salu- 
brious, and  the  air  is  remarkable  for  its  uniform  purity.  Extremes  of 
heal  or  cold  are  never  known  here.  Fine  pastures  ibr  cattle  are  found 
upon  the  plains  of  this  island ;  birds  are  numerou.s,  and  fish  plenty. 
The  population  has  been  variously  estimated,  from  sixteen  to  twenty- 
two  thousand,  and  the  inhabitants  are  distinguished  for  mildness,  honesty, 
and  amiable  simplicity  of  manners. 

This  place  has  acquired  some  celebrity  from  a  conspicuous  incident 
of  the  last  war  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain.  On  the 
26th  of  September,  1814,  the  American  privateer  schooner  General 
Armstrong,  commanded  by  Captain  Samuel  C.  Reid,  was  attacked  in 
Fayal  Roads  (a  neutral  port),  by  the  boats  of  the  British  king's  ships 
Plantagenet  seventy-four,  frigate  Rota,  and  brig  Carnation.  The 
action  commenced  about  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  when  the  assail- 
ants were  beaten  off,  with  considerable  loss.  Being  reinforced  to  the 
number  of  twelve  boats,  they  returned  at  nine  o'clock ;  and,  after  a 
most  desperate  and  gallant  display  of  heroism  on  both  sides,  the  British 
were  again  compelled  to  sheer  off,  with  the  loss  of  several  boats.  The 
gallant  Captain  Reid  was  obliged  to  scuttle  his  vessel,  and  Captain 
Lloyd,  of  the  Plantagenet,  threatened  to  fire  upon  the  town,  unless  the 
privateer  was  delivered  up  to  him.  On  the  following  morning  they 
boarded  and  burnt  her.  The  American  loss  in  this  affair  was  two 
killed  and  seven  wounded  ;  while  the  British  loss  was  one  hundred 
and  twenty  killed,  and  one  hundred  and  thirty  wounded.  The  captain 
of  the  Plantagenet  lost  a  leg. 

Santa  Maria  is  the  most  southern  island  of  the  Azores,  being  in  lat. 
36°  59'  N.,  long.  25^  9'  W.  This  island  produces  plenty  of  wheat, 
and  has  about  five  thousand  inhabitants.  There  is  a  town  on  it,  called 
by  the  same  name. 

Gratiosa  contains  about  seven  thousand  inhabitants,  and  produces 
wheat,  wine,  butter,  and  cheese.  It  is  situated  in  lat.  39"^  2'  N.,  long. 
27^  58'  W. 

Flores  is  a  very  fertile  island,  and  was  so  called  from  the  abundance 
of  flowers  which  were  found  upon  it.  It  is  in  lat.  39^  26'  N.,  long.  31° 
7'  W.,  and  contains  about  seven  thousand  inhabitants. 

Corvo  is  the  smallest  of  the  group,  and  derives  its  name  from  the 
abundance  of  crows  that  were  found  upon  it.  It  has  about  eight  hun- 
dred inhabitants  upon  it,  who  cultivate  wheat  and  raise  pork.  This 
island  is  situated  in  lat.  39^  44'  N.,  long.  31°  7'  W. 

June  lOth. — From  Tercera  we  steered  for  Cadiz,  where  we  arrived 
on  Friday,  the  10th  of  June  ;  but,  on  account  of  the  Asiatic  cholera 
being  at  Manilla  when  we  left,  we  were  not  allowed  to  remain,  and 
therefore  concluded  to  oroceed  to  Bordeaux. 

I 

The  reader  will  recollect  that  on  my  first  visit  to  Cadiz,  in  the  year 
1812,  the  French  were  bombarding  that  city,  which  was  closely  be- 
sieged by  land.     But  the  star  of  Bonaparte  had  already  passed  the 


June.]  CITY  OF  CADIZ— BORDEAUX.  491 

zenith,  and  was  then  on  the  decline.  The  emperor  was  at  that  time 
on  his  fatal  expedition  into  Russia,  and  Wellington  was  driving  the 
French  from  every  part  of  Spain.  They  were  defeated  at  Salamanca 
on  the  21st  of  July,  and  Madrid  was  captured  by  the  British  on  the 
12th  of  August.  On  the  26th  of  the  same  month  the  siege  of  Cadiz 
was  raised. 

All  my  readers  are  well  aware,  I  presume,  that  this  is  a  large  and 
rich  city  of  Spain,  in  the  province  of  Andalusia  ;  that  it  is  seated  on  an 
island,  and  that  it  has  an  excellent  harbour.  The  island  is  about 
eighteen  miles  in  length,  and  generally  nine  in  breadth ;  but  the  north- 
west end,  on  which  the  city  stands,  is  not  two  miles  broad.  It  has  a 
communication  with  the  continent  by  a  bridge,  and  the  bay  formed  by 
this  island  is  about  twelve  miles  in  length  and  six  in  breadth.  The 
south  side  is  inaccessible  by  sea,  because  it  is  lined  with  craggy  rocks  ; 
and  the  passage  into  the  harbour  is  commanded  by  two  forts,  called  the 
Puntal  and  Malagorda.     It  is  in  lat.  36^  32'  N.,  long.  6^  18'  W. 

With  very  few  exceptions,  the  streets  of  Cadiz  are  narrow,  ill  paved, 
insufferably  filthy,  and  horribly  odorific.  The  houses  have  all  flat 
roofs,  covered  with  impenetrable  cement,  and  are  generally  surmounted 
with  a  turret  which  commands  a  view  of  the  sea.  High  above  all 
these  soars  the  tower  of  signals,  where  flags  are  hung  out  on  the  first 
sight  of  a  vessel,  denoting  her  size,  rig,  and  national  character. 

There  are  a  few  pleasant  spots  about  Cadiz,  one  of  which  is  called 
the  Alraeda,  a  public  promenade,  much  resorted  to  in  the  evening.  It 
cannot  vie,  however,  v/ith  the  Battery  promenade  of  the  city  of  New- 
York  ;  as  its  exposure  to  the  winds  of  the  ocean  prevents  the  trees 
thriving,  and  precludes  all  hopes  of  future  shade. 

Westward  of  the  Almeda,  is  Campo  Santo,  an  extensive  esplanade, 
the  only  airing  for  coaches  ;  opposite  to  which  is  the  fortress  of  St. 
Sebastian,  erected  on  a  neck  of  land  running  out  into  the  sea.  The 
round  tower  at  the  extremity  of  this  fortress  is  supposed  to  have  saved 
the  city  from  being  swept  away  by  the  fury  of  the  waves  in  the  dread- 
ful earthquake  of  1755. 

The  population  of  Cadiz  is  computed  at  about  one  hundred  thousand. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  cities  of  Europe,  and  was  founded  by  the 
Phenicians.  It  was  afterward  a  Roman  town,  and  still  presents  several 
interesting  remains  of  Roman  antiquities.  Cadiz  is  about  forty-five 
miles  west  of  Gibraltar,  and  Malaga  bears  from  it  east-by-north,  dis- 
tant thirty  leacrues. 

June  '20th. — On  leaving  Cadiz,  we  steered  to  the  west,  and  after- 
ward to  the  north,  coasting  the  kingdom  of  Portugal,  a  distance  of 
more  than  three  hundred  miles,  to  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  and  arrived  at 
Bordeaux  on  Monday,  the  20th  day  of  June.  Here  we  discharged  our 
cargo,  and  took  another  on  board  for  New- York,  and  were  again  ready 
to  sail  on  the  14th  of  July. 

Bordeaux  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  cities  of  France,  and  was  for- 
merly the  metropolis  of  the  late  province  of  Guienne,  now  the  depart- 
ment of  Gironde.  It  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  fertile  valley,  on  the 
bank  of  the  river  Garonne,  which  afterward  assumes  the  name  of 
Gironde.     It   is  three  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  south-west  of 


492  RETURN  TO  NEW-YORK.  [lo3L 

Paris,  eighty-seven  miles  south  of  Rochelle,  forty  leagues  from  Tou- 
louse, thirty-three  from  Limoges,  fourteen  from  the  Saints,  and  about 
seventy-five  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  on  which  it  stands.  In 
the  present  geographical  division  of  France,  Bordeaux  is  the  capital  of 
the  department  of  Gironde. 

The  ancient  city  of  Bordeaux,  it  is  said,  though  considerable  in  point 
of  size,  was  ill  built,  badly  paved,  without  police,  or  any  of  those  muni- 
cipal regulations  indispensably  requisite  to  render  a  city  splendid  or 
elegant.  I  was  told  that  it  has  entirely  changed  its  appearance  within 
the  last  forty  years.  The  new  city  is  well  built,  the  streets  regular 
and  handsome,  and  the  public  edifices  present  a  noble  appearance. 
The  newest  as  well  as  the  finest  part  of  it  is  the  public  square  facing 
the  harbour.  The  population  is  estimated  at  one  hundred  thousand, 
and  their  commerce  is  very  extensive. 

The  harbour  is  capacious  and  well  secured ;  and  from  its  crescent 
form  is  called  Le  Port  de  la  Lune.  The  city  and  harbour  are  defended 
by  three  forts,  which  were  constructed  by  the  famous  Vauban.  The 
Garonne  is  a  noble  river,  with  depth  of  water  sufficient  to  enable  the 
largest  ships  to  come  up  to  the  city ;  it  is  considerably  wider  than  the 
Thames  at  London  Bridge ;  is  bordered  by  a  large  and  elegant  quay 
between  three  and  four  miles  in  length  ;  and  the  water  rises  in  it  twelve 
feet  at  full  tide.  The  commerce  of  this  place  is  also  greatly  promoted 
by  the  celebrated  canal  of  Languedoc,  which  communicates  with  the 
Mediterranean,  and  through  which  Bordeaux  can  furnish  the  south  of 
France  with  colonial  products  at  a  cheaper  rate  than  Marseilles. 
Wines,  brandies,  and  fruits  are  the  staple  articles  of  export ;  but  the 
wine  trade  is  most  attended  to.  Bordeaux  is  in  latitude  44°  50' 20"  N., 
long.  0°  34'  E. 

July  I5th. — On  Friday,  the  15th,  we  took  leave  of  all  our  French 
friends,  and  at  eleven,  A.  M.,  got  under  way,  and  once  more  directed 
the  Antarctic's  course  to  our  long-looked  for  home,  in  "  the  drooping 
west."  After  leaving  the  river  and  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  our  patience  was 
tantalized  with  contrary  winds,  and  still  more  vexatious  calms,  which 
protracted  our  passage  to  the  unusual  length  of  nearly  six  weeks. 

August  27th. — On  Saturday,  the  27th  of  August,  we  entered  the  port 
of  New- York,  after  an  absence  of  two  years  lacking  six  days.  My 
owners  received  me  in  the  most  kind  and  cordial  manner,  which  was 
more  than  I  anticipated  on  returning  from  a  voyage  attended  with  such 
a  succession  of  misfortunes.  This  was  truly  a  cordial  to  my  wounded 
spirit,  and  enabled  my  wife  to  bear  up  against  the  melancholy  intelli- 
gence which  awaited  us  on  reaching  our  long-deserted  home — her  father, 
her  aunt,  and  her  aunt's  child  were  all  dead  !  as  were  likewise  a  female 
cousin  of  my  own,  and  her  husband  !  Thus  ends  the  narrative  of  my 
"  Four  Voyages." 


THE    END. 


VALUABLE     WORKS 

PUBLISHED   BY 

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A  DICTIONARY  OF  THE   HOLY  BIBLE  ;   containing 

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Edinburgh  Edition.     To  which  is  prefixed  a  Biographical  Sketch  of  the  Author,  &c. 

EVIDENCE  OF  THE  TRUTH  OF  THE  CHRISTIAN 

RELIGION,  derived  from  the  literal  Fulfilment  of  PROPHECY;  particularly 
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References  to  Ancient  and  Modern  Works  :  forming  a  Catalogue  RaisonnS  of  Sur- 
gical Literature.  By  SAMUEL  COOPER.  From  the  sixth  London  Edition. 
Revised,  corrected,  and  enlarged.  With  numerous  Notes  and  Additions,  em- 
bracino-  all  the  principal  Improvements  and  greater  Operations  introduced  and 
performed  by  American  Surgeons.  By  DAVlD  MEREDITH  REESE,  M.D. 
In  2  vols.  8vo. 


4  WORKS    PUBLISHED    BY  <t   J.    HARPER. 

LIVES  OF  CELEBRATED  TRAVELLERS.  By  J.  A. 

ST.  JOHN.     In  3  vols.  18mo. 

SKETCHES  OF  VENETIAN  HISTORY.   In  2  vols.  18mo. 
THE   HISTORY  OF   POLAND,  from  the  earliest  Period 

te  the  present  Time.     By  JAMES  FLETCHER,  Esq.     With  a  Portrait  of  Kos- 
ciusko.    18mo. 

FESTIVALS,  GAMES,  AND  AMUSEMENTS,  Ancient 

and  Modem.     By  HO^TIO  SMITH,  Esq.     18mo.     [With  Engravings.] 

THE   HISTORY  OF  NAPOLEON  BONAPARTE.     By 

J.  G.  LOCKHART,  Esq.     [With  Portraits.]     In  2  vols.  18mo. 

LIVES  AND  VOYAGES  OF  DRAKE,  CAVENDISH, 

AND  DAMPIER  :  including  an  Introductory  Viev?  of  the  earlier  Diiscoveries  in 
the  South  Sea ;  and  the  History  of  the  Bucaniers.     [With  three  Portraits.]    ISmo. 

THE  LIFE  OF  LORD  NELSON.     By  R.  SOUTHEY, 

Esq.     [With  a  Portrait.]     18mo. 

JOURNALS  AND  LETTERS  OF  LORD  BYRON.  By 

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THE  LIFE  AND  TIMES   OF   HIS   LATE  MAJESTY 

GEORGE  THE  FOURTH.     With  Anecdotes  of  Distinguished  Persons  of  the 
last  Fifty  Years.     By  the  Rev.  GEORGE  CROLY.     [With  a  Portrait.]     18mo. 

LIFE  OF  MARY  QUEEN  OF  SCOTS.  By  HENRY 

GLASSFORD  BELL.     In  2  vols.  ISmo.     [With  a  Portrait.] 

LIFE  OF  LORD  BYRON.     By  JOHN  GALT,  Esq.    18mo. 
MEMOIRS  OF  THE  EMPRESS  JOSEPHINE.     By  J.  S. 

MEMES,  LL.D.     18mo.     [With  Portraits.] 

THE  COURT  AND  CAMP  OF  BONAPARTE.     ISmo. 

[With  a  Portrait  of  Talleyrand.] 

ANNALS  OF  TRYON  COUNTY;  or,  THE  BORDER 

WARFARE  OF  NEW-YORK,  during  the  Revolution.     By  WILLIAM  W. 
CAMPBELL,  Esq.     8vo. 

THE   PLAYS   OF  PHILIP  MASSINGER  ;   adapted  for 

Family  Reading,  and  the  Use  of  Young  Persons,  by  the  Omission  of  Objectionable  • 
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THE  PLAYS  OF  JOHN  FORD ;  adapted  as  above.     In 

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A  TREATISE   ON  SHADOWS,  AND  LINEAR  PER- 

SPECTIVE.  By  CHARLES  DAVIE S,  Professor  of  Mathematics  in  the  Mili- 
tary Academy  at  West  Point.     Ro3'al  8vo.     [Illustrated  with  Copperplates.] 

ELEMENTS  OF  SURVEYING.    With  the  necessary  Tables 

and  Plates.  By  CHARLES  DAVIE S,  Professor  of  Mathematics  in  the  Military 
Academy  at  West  Point.     8vo. 

THE  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE   OF   SURVEYING? 

containing  all  the  Instructions  requisite  for  the  skilful  practice  of  this  Art,  with  a 
new  set  of  accurate  Mathematical  Tables.  By  ROBERT  GIBSON.  Illustrated 
by  Copperplates.     Newly  improved  and  enlarged.     By  JAMES  RYAN.     8vo. 


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